My mom just bought an RV with a Renogy system that maxes out at 75A AC (inverter) and 60A DC (PV+alternator) charging 2 x 400Ah batteries. Definitely going to grab this for when generator charging is needed. Running a 4000W generator for 900W of charging is silly. Should be able to do almost 1900W charging with this.
I have the same charger and love it got it for the price of the 40amp charger when they first came out i have a cabin that's off grid and use it with a generator when there's no sun
LiTime sent me one of these lithium chargers for free.. Never used it yet.. I think it's the 40a model. Why free you might be asking.. because I bought Four of the 400a lithiums ($4800) for my Rv solar system.. yep.. 1600Ah.. Each one is 83 lbs. Got them here inside my trailer. Gonna be taking one of them with me in my cabover down to my property down in AZ soon and live the offgrid life. Gotta go get the land setup with a pad for this. Lack of sun hours is why I'm happy with the 30a shore power. 2400w here but have almost 6k watts of panels. I love the RV life too.
That’s going to be a great set up. LiTime has been great to work with. Nice jester sending the 40A. Will be a good backup with a generator for those extended bad weather days.
I have used the 60 amp Litime charger for at least 5 months on the road. We had 3 100 amp hour batteries. Worked great, then got 710 watts of solar. So not so much on the charger now. But together we could do about anything full time off grid for ever, well if we could get gas.
@@davidrobards9587 I’m working on plans for a really similar off grid camper set up. Are you able to charge your battery with your solar controller and the 60amp charger at the same time? For really fast charging? Having a hard time finding out if that’s safe to have 2 different types of charger going simultaneously.
@brianrbraxton1494 yes I have used both chargers at the same time, not very often because no need unless I am bottom charging. Both put out DC power at 14.5 or so volts. Just adds amps at a faster rate. Up to a point the slower you recharge the better. A c.5 is about the best for a fast rate. Most batteries will take a C 1 but will heat up more as you move up. We do not have to charge that fast anyway. Most times we were recharged before noon and same times by 930 to 10 am with just solar. The rest of the day charge controler would switch off then back on at 1 or 2 amps best I remember then back off again.
Thank you for being one of the few who tells the power draw of the LIFEPO4 chargers. Do you have the equipment to check the power factor or calculate the true volt-amps? Many battery chargers have very poor power factors so there is a big difference between the watts and volt amps on a meter. Generators although rated in watts really produce power in volt-amps. If a small generator is rated for 1000 watts but the battery charger input meter shows 900 watts and the power factor is really .5 the generator will stall or shut off because it cannot produce the 1800 volt-amps needed. A T Burke
I don’t have a meter for volt amps. Just Ohms Law of volts X amps = watts. 120V AC X 14A (tested at the plug as shown 7 minutes in video) = 1680 watts. A 2000 watt generator or larger should do the trick.
Thanks a lot for the awesome video and detailed review! It’s really cleared up a lot of my confusion. With so many lithium battery brands out there, it’s been tough to know which one to choose. Your video has definitely boosted my confidence in LiTime batteries. However, I’m still curious about how the LiTime 12V 140Ah Dual Purpose Starting battery performs. Do you plan to review this battery in any future videos? That would really help me make a better decision. Thanks again!
For lithium batteries rule of thumb is a lower amperage charge will increase and prolong the battery life, unless really needed 80amps for myself is excessive.
I disagree. The manufacturer of the battery recommends charging amps. These larger batteries max charge capacity substantially higher than 80 amps. The LiTime 300 specs state charging up to 200 amps.
@@iLoveRVlife You must be in a hurry, remember these are chemical batteries not led acid, an 80amp hour charge to me is excessive, but your battery not mine. Hopefully you will not have combustion.
Great video. Is there a reference where you can see that this charger, at 80 amps is too powerful for lower capacity batteries? I have 100 and 300 amp hour, 12 volt batteries and would like this charger for the 300 but you mentioned that it would be too much for a 100. What would the highest I could go for the 100? I see that LiTime also has a 60 and 40. Thanks.
Hi Frank. It depends on the battery BMS as to what max charging rate is recommended. Should be easy to find. Go to the battery manufacturer’s website and the max charging amps should be listed in the technical specs. LiTime also offers 10, 20, 40, 60, and 80A chargers.
Can you leave the charging wires on the battery unplugged on the battery when not charging. ? Or do i have to screw them on every time I want to use it?
Will a little red Honda 2200i generator run this charger? I believe I have 120V 20A to work with. This would solve a lot of my problems. Thanks!! Subscribed!
The 2200i has a constant 1800 watt output. The unit required 14A at 120V. That should b 1680 watts. You’ll be near the top end of the inverter, but should be able to handle the load.
I have one of them EU2000i Hondas.. it's max output is 11A.. or 1120 watts. So yes, it'll charge it. It'll just take longer.. 1/2 or 3/4 of a gallon of gas.. is cheap.
While the temperature of the case and the cables is good to know I believe you should also check the temperature of any connections, such as the Anderson connector and the terminals on the battery. I would also check check each plug on the AC cord, where it plugs into the wall and where it plugs into the charger it's self. I had an AC power cord that melted at the end where it plugs into the wall. The cord was nice and cool but there must have been a manufacturing fault connecting the wire of the cord to the prongs that plug into the wall. I now check the temperature anywhere there is a connection of one conductor to another.
All good points. Not shown in the video, but all were checked. Plugs and connectors were slightly cooler, and and post on the battery was around 90. I’ve been using for a couple weeks on 300 and 460 Ah batteries. Performance has been similar in all cases.
What other brands do you know offer 80amp 12v battery chargers? I think if one was to use multiple 20amp chargers, its might be best to connect them all to their own busbar with individual breakers plus a main breaker for the busbar. That way it’s only one connection to the battery or main busbar. Just an idea ;)
Jerry, I am off grid and have an Epoch 300ah battery in our 5h wheel. Epoch only sells a 15 amp charger (which I have). To your knowledge would this 80 Amp charger work on an Epoch 300 ah? Thanks for the great videos.
It will. It’s a basic lithium battery charger that will work with any battery capable of supporting an 80A charge. I’ve used on my Epoch 300Ah battery with no issue. That battery will support up to 200A of charging.
My converter went out and I decided to remove it and not replace it. I also decided to upgrade to the Li time 230hm battery and get the Li time 60A charger thinking the charger would just replace the converter. The charger is connected to the batteries and power all the time (basically just replace the converter with it)Took the RV out for the first time after the upgrade, we were on shore power the entire time except when in transit. When I connected the RV to the shore power the charger came on and fully charged the batteries. The next day, using the app, I notice the battery was down to 75% and the charger was not charging. I asked Li Time if the charger would automatically start charging. The answer was yes but only once the voltage dropped to around 12.6v which would be less than 25% capacity. This is not ideal. I turned the charger off and back on and it started charging and brought the batteries back up to 100% for the trip home. So my idea of replacing the converter with the charger did not work as expected. Am I missing something or do I just need to replace the convert and the charger is just to charger faster as you stated?
This is a charger not a charger converter. There’s a difference where sustained 12V is needed when connected to shore power. As mentioned in the video, it can be used to supplement an existing charger converter.
@TonyR-k8y I just turn off the 60 amp charger when not needed. Had not noticed that it did not turn back on, or ours does not sure. Now you have me wondering.
Most converters have a relay that switches power from the battery's to the converter when your plugged in to the grid - If your coming off the battery's and charger that causes short cycle charging - I'm not going into why but it's better if you have a separate converter to use while on shore power and let the charger just handle charging the batterys -
It will, but depending on the state of discharge could take a while. I’ve charge 300 amps that was completely discharged with a 20A and it took about 14 hours.
Great video great information. Can you safely use the battery while charging it . I have two Boondocking applications and have bought 4 Li Time batteries over the last year. 👊👍😎
Lithium sulfur was used before lithium iron as used today - there not much different except there about 2.8 volts per cell - the space industry, medical industry and oil & gas industry has used them for ages - there very expensive -
I would agree to just replace a receptacle with a 20 amp receptacle and re pull the wiring and up grade it to a 12 gage set of leads so you can upgrade to a 20 amp circuit - A 15 amp circuit breaker has a continue rating of 80% load rating of 12 amps or 80% of its rate amp draw - That's the standard NEC rating of a home line circuit breaker so any receptacle you plug that charger in, on less it's a dedicated 20 amp circuit will normally have a 15 amp receptacle and will have 14 gage wire along with a 15 amp braker - I know that 14 gauge leads can handle 14 amps - but I still way on the side of safety and staying with NEC code - Again many just have 2 kw generators - these are simply my own opinions - I've set up lithium iron and sulphur battery banks to charge at twice there capacity - In that case a 300 amp battery would be charged at 680 amps for 30 minutes a day to conserve fuel and generator run time - But for the average user 60 amps would be a better choice for most - if you have a 3500 watt generator - that's normally A 3500 VA of a generator rating in that case it's full out put would be 80% of 3500 watts so the full load out put is is 2800 watts - In that case you can set up with a 150 amp charger and cut your generator run time to 2 to 2.5 hrs a day that would be far more efficient - On my sail boat I charge my lithium sulfur battery that is, 900 amps at 900 amps 1 hr a day that way I don't have to waist a lot of fuel and have a unnecessary run time on the generator - Lithium iron battery's can handle the one hour charge rate also as long as they don't get above 100°F - the BMS will reduce the charge rate if there getting to warm - In your case you would do better with a 200 amp charger to further reduce Gen fuel consumption and run time -
I would recomend not going to larger than a 60 amp charger - because of the AC draw - a regular AC 15 amp outlet you can only draw 12.5 amps continuesly with out triping the circut braker - Also many use 2000 watt inverter generators and they can only handle 1400 watts continues draw of power with out shutting down - a 60 amp charger draws about 1100 watts - Also if a regular receptical is slightly aged even if it doesnt trip the circut braker it could over heat the receptical to a point it catches on fire - During winters 1000s of home catch on fire due to electric heaters over heating recepticals - electric heaters draw up to 12.5 amps at 1500 watts - There are times some one might need to fast charge with a generator - possibly to shorten generator run time to decrease fuel consumption - I live in the deep rural south US - huricanes and an occasional ice storm can knock the power out for months - katrina knocked power out for some longer than two yrs - Ive rode out about 20 huricanes in my life time - in my case after storms when im running off my house batterys and charge them from 1 to 4 hrs a day during long grid power outages Charging at 150 amps in 4 hours saves me an enormous amount of money on fuel - also charging at 600 amps for 1 hr and 15 minutes a day saves me an enormous amount of fuel when its dufficult to obtain - If all you have is one three hundred amp and your ok with it taking one or two hours longer charge time - I would recomend using a 60 amp charge it would take 5 1/2 to charge the battery instead of 4 hours if the battery is totaly discharged - If the power just goes out for 12 hours in my house and all the esentials are kept running off the batterys when the power comes back on a 40 amp charger will charge my house batterys once the grid power is restored - The batterys total amperage is 750 amps and the 40 amp charger charge them up in about 18 to 20 hours - With a 40 amp charger in most cases does not over load a receptical it only draws 7 or 800 watts - I had a grate uncle that started working on rural home light plants and batterys in the 1880s then my grandfather and uncles followed him - im a fourth generation generator machanic and worked in the offshore and remote mountain oilfields for 50 yrs - I put this information down from my own experance over the yrs - Also im familar with most battery technologies - a 40 amp charger will do fine charging a 300 or 600 amp battery bank - Also charging at a lower amprage will increase the life span of the BSM - the lithium batterys them selves will last longer than 25 yrs - The failures are generaly due to the electronics that support the BSM - the BSM will not generate as much heat charging at a lower charge rate - under normal conditions the slower charge rate can add yrs to the battery's over all life cycle from what i have seen -
It’s a simple fix for any appliance or device that requires 14A to operate. Use a receptacle that’s rated for 20A or a generator capable of supporting. As you mention, no one should overload a receptacle. On the positive side of using an 80A 12V DC charger when used with a 3500W generator, batteries recovered quickly without wasting fuel.
80amp@12V=6.67amp@120V when you plug into the wall? I keep thinking you will trip your breaker@80amp when plug into a socket with 20amp breaker. Please help understand. Thanks
The math shared does doesn’t apply to this charger. Not sure how that formula applies to this charger. Also depends on the components used in the charger. I too had a question about the amount of 120V AC current required to generate 80 amps of DC. If you look at the 7 minute mark in the video, I measure the AC current at 14A while charging. Hope that helps.
Hey Jerry. I do have a question and hopefully I use the right words and don’t confuse you. Haha. I just installed a 300 amp hour lithium battery in our 2017 camper and the converter in the camper was only for lead acid. It was a 55 amp charge converter. I bought a new lithium 55 amp converter and installed it and have experienced exactly what you said. If the battery is down to 50% it takes about 15 hours or so to charge it to 100%. That’s too long to run a generator just to charge up the battery, eh? lol. From what I understand in your video here, I could simply use this 80 amp charger as a separate unit? Could I just plug it into a generator and then attach the leads with alligator clips to the battery? If so that’s awesome! Then I could just use the 55 amp converter I installed in the camper as a float charger when plugged into shore power. I just wanted to get your take on that since I’m not even close to an expert on this stuff. I know I’m probably missing something here. lol.
Sorry, I’ll try again. No problem using with alligator clips when plugged into a generator. Using the existing charger that is for lead acid would not bring the battery to full charge. It will charge the battery, but lessen life over time. You could installed the charger as an option, leave plugged in, and leave the existing charge operating. It would supplement the current charger and keep the battery fully charged.
Can an 80ah charger be used on a set of 4- 12v 100ah batteries that are tied together in series/parallel 24v battery bank. Currently I have to disconnect the series/parallel to individually charge each battery with a 20amp smart charger.
I bet this reply is going to generate a bunch of comments. The rule of thumb is you shouldn’t. I’ve tested and haven’t had any issues, but not something I’ve posted on RUclips. The issue deals with the different BMS. The batteries will discharge at different values based on size. You may have balance issues charging and you shouldn’t exceed the max amps for the battery with the least maximum output. Another option would be to use a 3 position battery switch. Put the 300 on one leg and parallel the 2 - 200s on the other. You can run the 300 till it gets low, switch to the 200s and charge the 300, then reverse the process. Would eliminate the mixed BMS issues and still give you a substantial amount of power. Just use a shunt on the main negative feed to monitor.
I have a 3000 watt all in one inverter that has a 60 amps 24 volt battery charger built in. I paid 399 for the inverter. It's not even that big I use it in RV.
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I have 2, 300 ah batteries in transit to me now here in Alaska and this video answers many questions I have had being off grid. Thank you.
Good to hear you found the video helpful.
Be sure and MAX out the solar.
My mom just bought an RV with a Renogy system that maxes out at 75A AC (inverter) and 60A DC (PV+alternator) charging 2 x 400Ah batteries. Definitely going to grab this for when generator charging is needed. Running a 4000W generator for 900W of charging is silly. Should be able to do almost 1900W charging with this.
I’ve been using the 80A charger heavily in all of my recent large capacity battery tests. The unit is solid and has performed well.
I have the same charger and love it got it for the price of the 40amp charger when they first came out i have a cabin that's off grid and use it with a generator when there's no sun
LiTime sent me one of these lithium chargers for free.. Never used it yet.. I think it's the 40a model. Why free you might be asking.. because I bought Four of the 400a lithiums ($4800) for my Rv solar system.. yep.. 1600Ah.. Each one is 83 lbs. Got them here inside my trailer. Gonna be taking one of them with me in my cabover down to my property down in AZ soon and live the offgrid life. Gotta go get the land setup with a pad for this. Lack of sun hours is why I'm happy with the 30a shore power. 2400w here but have almost 6k watts of panels. I love the RV life too.
That’s going to be a great set up. LiTime has been great to work with. Nice jester sending the 40A. Will be a good backup with a generator for those extended bad weather days.
@@iLoveRVlife ok.. It was the 20A model.. Yeah.. it's the least they could do..
Great video thanks you God Bless
Thanks Ray
I have used the 60 amp Litime charger for at least 5 months on the road. We had 3 100 amp hour batteries. Worked great, then got 710 watts of solar. So not so much on the charger now. But together we could do about anything full time off grid for ever, well if we could get gas.
Hope we don’t see it come to the latter. Good to hear the 60A charge worked well.
You really got me looking at the 300amp hr. Battery and charger.
Reasonably priced and a strong set up.
@@davidrobards9587 I’m working on plans for a really similar off grid camper set up. Are you able to charge your battery with your solar controller and the 60amp charger at the same time? For really fast charging? Having a hard time finding out if that’s safe to have 2 different types of charger going simultaneously.
@brianrbraxton1494 yes I have used both chargers at the same time, not very often because no need unless I am bottom charging. Both put out DC power at 14.5 or so volts. Just adds amps at a faster rate. Up to a point the slower you recharge the better. A c.5 is about the best for a fast rate. Most batteries will take a C 1 but will heat up more as you move up. We do not have to charge that fast anyway. Most times we were recharged before noon and same times by 930 to 10 am with just solar. The rest of the day charge controler would switch off then back on at 1 or 2 amps best I remember then back off again.
I like big batteries, I can not lie.
Me too!
@@iLoveRVlife I can put my 50ah in a pack pack and charge it at the library or kwik trip .I'm not homeless but train for possible shtf scenarios .
A small 20ah charger should work well.
🤣😂😂🤣Not sure most of these folks get this!!!
Thank you for being one of the few who tells the power draw of the LIFEPO4 chargers. Do you have the equipment to check the power factor or calculate the true volt-amps? Many battery chargers have very poor power factors so there is a big difference between the watts and volt amps on a meter. Generators although rated in watts really produce power in volt-amps. If a small generator is rated for 1000 watts but the battery charger input meter shows 900 watts and the power factor is really .5 the generator will stall or shut off because it cannot produce the 1800 volt-amps needed.
A T Burke
I don’t have a meter for volt amps. Just Ohms Law of volts X amps = watts. 120V AC X 14A (tested at the plug as shown 7 minutes in video) = 1680 watts. A 2000 watt generator or larger should do the trick.
Thanks a lot for the awesome video and detailed review! It’s really cleared up a lot of my confusion. With so many lithium battery brands out there, it’s been tough to know which one to choose. Your video has definitely boosted my confidence in LiTime batteries. However, I’m still curious about how the LiTime 12V 140Ah Dual Purpose Starting battery performs. Do you plan to review this battery in any future videos? That would really help me make a better decision. Thanks again!
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the 140Ah battery.
For lithium batteries rule of thumb is a lower amperage charge will increase and prolong the battery life, unless really needed 80amps for myself is excessive.
I disagree. The manufacturer of the battery recommends charging amps. These larger batteries max charge capacity substantially higher than 80 amps. The LiTime 300 specs state charging up to 200 amps.
@@iLoveRVlife You must be in a hurry, remember these are chemical batteries not led acid, an 80amp hour charge to me is excessive, but your battery not mine. Hopefully you will not have combustion.
Great video. Is there a reference where you can see that this charger, at 80 amps is too powerful for lower capacity batteries? I have 100 and 300 amp hour, 12 volt batteries and would like this charger for the 300 but you mentioned that it would be too much for a 100. What would the highest I could go for the 100? I see that LiTime also has a 60 and 40. Thanks.
Hi Frank. It depends on the battery BMS as to what max charging rate is recommended. Should be easy to find. Go to the battery manufacturer’s website and the max charging amps should be listed in the technical specs. LiTime also offers 10, 20, 40, 60, and 80A chargers.
Can you leave the charging wires on the battery unplugged on the battery when not charging. ? Or do i have to screw them on every time I want to use it?
They can be left on. In the test I verified there was no feedback from the battery.
Will a little red Honda 2200i generator run this charger? I believe I have 120V 20A to work with. This would solve a lot of my problems. Thanks!! Subscribed!
The 2200i has a constant 1800 watt output. The unit required 14A at 120V. That should b 1680 watts. You’ll be near the top end of the inverter, but should be able to handle the load.
I have one of them EU2000i Hondas.. it's max output is 11A.. or 1120 watts. So yes, it'll charge it. It'll just take longer.. 1/2 or 3/4 of a gallon of gas.. is cheap.
While the temperature of the case and the cables is good to know I believe you should also check the temperature of any connections, such as the Anderson connector and the terminals on the battery. I would also check check each plug on the AC cord, where it plugs into the wall and where it plugs into the charger it's self. I had an AC power cord that melted at the end where it plugs into the wall. The cord was nice and cool but there must have been a manufacturing fault connecting the wire of the cord to the prongs that plug into the wall. I now check the temperature anywhere there is a connection of one conductor to another.
All good points. Not shown in the video, but all were checked. Plugs and connectors were slightly cooler, and and post on the battery was around 90. I’ve been using for a couple weeks on 300 and 460 Ah batteries. Performance has been similar in all cases.
Agreed they get hot at 80 amps
What other brands do you know offer 80amp 12v battery chargers?
I think if one was to use multiple 20amp chargers, its might be best to connect them all to their own busbar with individual breakers plus a main breaker for the busbar. That way it’s only one connection to the battery or main busbar. Just an idea ;)
Jerry, I am off grid and have an Epoch 300ah battery in our 5h wheel. Epoch only sells a 15 amp charger (which I have). To your knowledge would this 80
Amp charger work on an Epoch 300 ah? Thanks for the great videos.
It will. It’s a basic lithium battery charger that will work with any battery capable of supporting an 80A charge. I’ve used on my Epoch 300Ah battery with no issue. That battery will support up to 200A of charging.
Prices so cheap on lifeP04 batteries. I bought a 100 amp hour lifeP04 battery for $149. The lead acid starter battery on my truck was $239.00
I know. Pricing is great now.
My converter went out and I decided to remove it and not replace it. I also decided to upgrade to the Li time 230hm battery and get the Li time 60A charger thinking the charger would just replace the converter. The charger is connected to the batteries and power all the time (basically just replace the converter with it)Took the RV out for the first time after the upgrade, we were on shore power the entire time except when in transit. When I connected the RV to the shore power the charger came on and fully charged the batteries. The next day, using the app, I notice the battery was down to 75% and the charger was not charging. I asked Li Time if the charger would automatically start charging. The answer was yes but only once the voltage dropped to around 12.6v which would be less than 25% capacity. This is not ideal. I turned the charger off and back on and it started charging and brought the batteries back up to 100% for the trip home. So my idea of replacing the converter with the charger did not work as expected. Am I missing something or do I just need to replace the convert and the charger is just to charger faster as you stated?
This is a charger not a charger converter. There’s a difference where sustained 12V is needed when connected to shore power. As mentioned in the video, it can be used to supplement an existing charger converter.
@TonyR-k8y I just turn off the 60 amp charger when not needed. Had not noticed that it did not turn back on, or ours does not sure. Now you have me wondering.
Most converters have a relay that switches power from the battery's to the converter when your plugged in to the grid -
If your coming off the battery's and charger that causes short cycle charging - I'm not going into why but it's better if you have a separate converter to use while on shore power and let the charger just handle charging the batterys -
This is a charger only and operates different than a RV charger / converter that has a different charging profile.
Do you think that a 20 amp LiTime 12v charger can charge up 4 100ah batteries wired in parallel?
It will, but depending on the state of discharge could take a while. I’ve charge 300 amps that was completely discharged with a 20A and it took about 14 hours.
Great video great information. Can you safely use the battery while charging it . I have two Boondocking applications and have bought 4 Li Time batteries over the last year. 👊👍😎
@marketshare3969 yes with ours anyway. If you are charging at 20 amps and using 10 amps you charge at basically 10 amps. Same as using a converter.
Thanks. Should be no problem. It has a well managed BMS to protect the battery during charging and use.
Lithium sulfur was used before lithium iron as used today - there not much different except there about 2.8 volts per cell - the space industry, medical industry and oil & gas industry has used them for ages - there very expensive -
I would agree to just replace a receptacle with a 20 amp receptacle and re pull the wiring and up grade it to a 12 gage set of leads so you can upgrade to a 20 amp circuit -
A 15 amp circuit breaker has a continue rating of 80% load rating of 12 amps or 80% of its rate amp draw -
That's the standard NEC rating of a home line circuit breaker so any receptacle you plug that charger in, on less it's a dedicated 20 amp circuit will normally have a 15 amp receptacle and will have 14 gage wire along with a 15 amp braker -
I know that 14 gauge leads can handle 14 amps - but I still way on the side of safety and staying with NEC code -
Again many just have 2 kw generators - these are simply my own opinions - I've set up lithium iron and sulphur battery banks to charge at twice there capacity -
In that case a 300 amp battery would be charged at 680 amps for 30 minutes a day to conserve fuel and generator run time -
But for the average user 60 amps would be a better choice for most - if you have a 3500 watt generator - that's normally A 3500 VA of a generator rating in that case it's full out put would be 80% of 3500 watts so the full load out put is is 2800 watts -
In that case you can set up with a 150 amp charger and cut your generator run time to 2 to 2.5 hrs a day that would be far more efficient -
On my sail boat I charge my lithium sulfur battery that is, 900 amps at 900 amps 1 hr a day that way I don't have to waist a lot of fuel and have a unnecessary run time on the generator -
Lithium iron battery's can handle the one hour charge rate also as long as they don't get above 100°F - the BMS will reduce the charge rate if there getting to warm -
In your case you would do better with a 200 amp charger to further reduce Gen fuel consumption and run time -
I would recomend not going to larger than a 60 amp charger - because of the AC draw - a regular AC 15 amp outlet you can only draw 12.5 amps continuesly with out triping the circut braker -
Also many use 2000 watt inverter generators and they can only handle 1400 watts continues draw of power with out shutting down - a 60 amp charger draws about 1100 watts -
Also if a regular receptical is slightly aged even if it doesnt trip the circut braker it could over heat the receptical to a point it catches on fire -
During winters 1000s of home catch on fire due to electric heaters over heating recepticals - electric heaters draw up to 12.5 amps at 1500 watts -
There are times some one might need to fast charge with a generator - possibly to shorten generator run time to decrease fuel consumption -
I live in the deep rural south US - huricanes and an occasional ice storm can knock the power out for months - katrina knocked power out for some longer than two yrs -
Ive rode out about 20 huricanes in my life time - in my case after storms when im running off my house batterys and charge them from 1 to 4 hrs a day during long grid power outages
Charging at 150 amps in 4 hours saves me an enormous amount of money on fuel - also charging at 600 amps for 1 hr and 15 minutes a day saves me an enormous amount of fuel when its dufficult to obtain -
If all you have is one three hundred amp and your ok with it taking one or two hours longer charge time -
I would recomend using a 60 amp charge it would take 5 1/2 to charge the battery instead of 4 hours if the battery is totaly discharged -
If the power just goes out for 12 hours in my house and all the esentials are kept running off the batterys when the power comes back on a 40 amp charger will charge my house batterys once the grid power is restored -
The batterys total amperage is 750 amps and the 40 amp charger charge them up in about 18 to 20 hours -
With a 40 amp charger in most cases does not over load a receptical it only draws 7 or 800 watts -
I had a grate uncle that started working on rural home light plants and batterys in the 1880s then my grandfather and uncles followed him - im a fourth generation generator machanic and worked in the offshore and remote mountain oilfields for 50 yrs -
I put this information down from my own experance over the yrs -
Also im familar with most battery technologies - a 40 amp charger will do fine charging a 300 or 600 amp battery bank -
Also charging at a lower amprage will increase the life span of the BSM - the lithium batterys them selves will last longer than 25 yrs -
The failures are generaly due to the electronics that support the BSM - the BSM will not generate as much heat charging at a lower charge rate - under normal conditions the slower charge rate can add yrs to the battery's over all life cycle from what i have seen -
It’s a simple fix for any appliance or device that requires 14A to operate. Use a receptacle that’s rated for 20A or a generator capable of supporting. As you mention, no one should overload a receptacle. On the positive side of using an 80A 12V DC charger when used with a 3500W generator, batteries recovered quickly without wasting fuel.
80amp@12V=6.67amp@120V when you plug into the wall? I keep thinking you will trip your breaker@80amp when plug into a socket with 20amp breaker. Please help understand. Thanks
The math shared does doesn’t apply to this charger. Not sure how that formula applies to this charger. Also depends on the components used in the charger. I too had a question about the amount of 120V AC current required to generate 80 amps of DC. If you look at the 7 minute mark in the video, I measure the AC current at 14A while charging. Hope that helps.
Hey Jerry. I do have a question and hopefully I use the right words and don’t confuse you. Haha. I just installed a 300 amp hour lithium battery in our 2017 camper and the converter in the camper was only for lead acid. It was a 55 amp charge converter. I bought a new lithium 55 amp converter and installed it and have experienced exactly what you said. If the battery is down to 50% it takes about 15 hours or so to charge it to 100%. That’s too long to run a generator just to charge up the battery, eh? lol. From what I understand in your video here, I could simply use this 80 amp charger as a separate unit? Could I just plug it into a generator and then attach the leads with alligator clips to the battery? If so that’s awesome! Then I could just use the 55 amp converter I installed in the camper as a float charger when plugged into shore power. I just wanted to get your take on that since I’m not even close to an expert on this stuff. I know I’m probably missing something here. lol.
LifeP04 batteries have a BMS battery monitoring system which hopefully will protect your battery system from high amperage and voltage overloads.
@@wrxs1781ok thanks, but that doesn’t answer my question. lol.
Good question and yes to all. Make sure heavy duty alligator clips are use. With this much amperage, loose connections would get very hot.
All of the batteries I’ve reviewed have over load and over temp protection during charging and use.
Sorry, I’ll try again. No problem using with alligator clips when plugged into a generator. Using the existing charger that is for lead acid would not bring the battery to full charge. It will charge the battery, but lessen life over time. You could installed the charger as an option, leave plugged in, and leave the existing charge operating. It would supplement the current charger and keep the battery fully charged.
Can an 80ah charger be used on a set of 4- 12v 100ah batteries that are tied together in series/parallel 24v battery bank.
Currently I have to disconnect the series/parallel to individually charge each battery with a 20amp smart charger.
If connected as 24V, you’ll need a 24V charger.
@ thank you
@fitandfierce thanks for watching
What is the charge profile? Bulk 14.6V. What is the float voltage?
I have Four of their 400Ah batteries and like most other good quality lithiums.. float at 14.2, and rest at 13.6
@ I got that. The question was more what the charger does?
Nothing shown in the specs. Testing showed 13.5V at rest.
I just looked up the price 239 , not bad. For the amount of power.
I thought so and good safety features too.
Question if I already have two, 200 amp lithium batteries, the same brand at your looking at can you mix a 300 amp with those two 200 A
I bet this reply is going to generate a bunch of comments. The rule of thumb is you shouldn’t. I’ve tested and haven’t had any issues, but not something I’ve posted on RUclips. The issue deals with the different BMS. The batteries will discharge at different values based on size. You may have balance issues charging and you shouldn’t exceed the max amps for the battery with the least maximum output. Another option would be to use a 3 position battery switch. Put the 300 on one leg and parallel the 2 - 200s on the other. You can run the 300 till it gets low, switch to the 200s and charge the 300, then reverse the process. Would eliminate the mixed BMS issues and still give you a substantial amount of power. Just use a shunt on the main negative feed to monitor.
So how big of a generator is required to operate it?
Our tests showed 1640 watts or 14A of AC power during charging. A 2k generator or larger should work well.
So much for charging it with a portable power supply.
I would prefer an adjustable amp output...
I have a 3000 watt all in one inverter that has a 60 amps 24 volt battery charger built in. I paid 399 for the inverter. It's not even that big I use it in RV.
That’s a good value.
I hope you're a GT fan
They had a great game today. Big upset. Will be going to the Bulldog vs Tech game and will be red and black shooting Go Dawgs!