In low light enviroments, all laser colour work. Green is just straight up better in brighter situations, like outside. I would always spend more money to get a green one. You will notice the difference.
You did an amazing job with the LED strips. I am electrician, I’ve installed a lot of LED lighting, another nice feature is using diffusers( channels) this I believe gives a professional look and the lighting gives off a soft glow.
As a non-electrician, I can verify that corner diffuser channels will give a softer and more even light distribution. They cost more than wooden trim, but the result will be more "professional". In the end, it's all those small details that end up having a big impact on the overall cost of the project. For a DIY project, this is definitely well done!
Great choice on the LEDs. You chose the COB (circuit on board) style of LED which is my preferred type for indoor lighting like this as well. They give off that steady "strip" of light instead of the individual LED "dots" or hot spots. Great work here!
This turned out great! Sticking LED's directly to wood will shorten their lifespan though. If you ever replace them, put them in a shallow aluminum channel with a diffuser to dissipate the heat generated by the LED's! I would also use LED's rated at 50,000 hours for permanent installations so they'll last a lifetime.
You can use frosted plastic strips as diffusers, that way you can't see the actual LED strips. Fantastic looking project. The end result looked amazing.
@@itoibo4208 I was thinking about that, too, but it would make connecting the LEDs to power quite a bit trickier, given the French cleat system, and the outlet on the front of one of the panels. Also, the flat-90-degree-corners would pose a challenge.
To avoid low amperage ends on your led strips you can simply solder the power wires to both ends, obviouly minding the polarity (positive to positive and negative to negative).
Regarding the issue of long lengths of strips running dim at the far end, one trick is to "center feed" the strip. If you need a 26 foot total length strip, you can attach power whips at 13ft, aka in the center, and electrically, you now have two 13ft strips on each whip.
Another trick is wiring positive and negative to opposite ends. This works well for designs where the ends are close, like looping around a room, but takes a lot of wire for long strips. @jblewis’ suggestion is a winner for that situation.
You can also use “power injection”. Example: where you have a single power connection at the source, double or triple the wire connections. Then connect one pair ( black and red), second set at the end and even a third pair in the middle. Yes, a lot of wire, but necessary for long LED runs. This is especially true when using RGB LEDs.
You go girl, i like how you and your husband work together. I can see how y'all were thinking ahead of the building of your house. Great job, keep up the good work 😊.
I added LEDs around the perimeter of my bedroom and used an RGB with a remote. I used a pair of aluminum L brackets to form an "U" channel, just because I had a lot of that stuff on hand and mounted it to the wall about 4" from the ceiling. Then I put some Cello foam about 3 layers to soften the light so I can dim it down. When I add my Dark Sky's Planetarium projector it makes me feel like I'm outside... It's very cool and fun to lay in bed and watch the stars with the ceiling slightly illuminated.
This looks great! I have a suggestion for next time -- try using 24V led strips instead of 12V, it's a lot easier to meet the power requirements since you only need half the amps.
I did this + agree. One problem with this is the availability and physical size of 24V transformers .. maybe just me but I had a hard time finding ones small enough to fit into the 4 gang boxes I had planned for them. 12V seem to have a lot more options and are more common to buy. Another option is to feed power at points down the strip.
@@glenbayley9697 for higher wattage applications where the voltage drop is enough of an issue to justify 24v, the transformers put off too much heat to stuff into a box
Great project. Tip for you and for others regarding the LED strip and power. You can inject power at various places, and that way you would not have a voltage/amperage drop in the led strip and it will stay bright all it's length. Also, with a router, you could drive out a socket for a 90 degree aluminum profile bar that diffuse the light and hides the LED strip.
What a neat project, an approach that wouldn't have occurred to me. I don't know what I'd do without a laser level, certainly I'd never be talked into wallpapering without one 🙂
Great job… very creative… Nice look. French cleats are the bomb and loved your experiment. My recommendations to someone who wants to do this… just put the led strips on the MDF 3-4” in from edge. Also, recommend a traditional power on/off with a wall switch. Remotes for lights are hassle in my opinion. Maybe a smart switch, they have dimmable. We have a smart plug for our hallway lamp… “Alexa, turn on the hallway.” Lots of options, but the remote is my least favorite.
I use 5v sk6812 strips which are fully programmable and can produce some crazy light shows. Perhaps also a motion sensor to turn them on when you are in the hall ;) They look great!
Easier way is to put 2 cleats at the top, then only a spacer block at the bottom, if you worry about wobble the weight of the sheet will be ok. But if you have kids and they go colliding in your walls then I would put some double sided tape at the bottom
The french cleats are so brilliant!! I would have been nailing those things to the wall somehow. Not only easy to install but the ability to nudge them is epic
You don't need smart tech, a simple PIR detector would be enough to trigger the lights and have them turn off automatically after a short period of time. Just like the motion detecting outdoor lights.
@@maxximumb I think PIR qualifies as being smart. Obviously, some more fancy circuitry could trigger them to come on in steps in the direction you are coming from. I have seen that on stairs and it looks decent.
My point of view. You could of just router out 1/2 in the mdf. Then mounted the Leds to the mdf . That way when you come around the corner you wouldn't see it. And skip all the other thing you did with the trim. But Awesome job , Love other DIY people and all the things that we do to make a smile on our faces.
Very cool project and execution. For my personal tastes, I would install a smart controller that would allow wireless control (and dimming) via WiFi and a smartphone (many work with remotes as well).
I recommend Chris Maher WLED tutorials. WLED is definitely the way to go vs any other control unit like the dimmer used here. Also, there are specific power supplies designed for this and are very inexpensive.
Yes, she probably should have used a Meanwell (or similar) power supply for cheap, reliable 12V power. That's what I used to power 95ft of LEDs across my house. DigQuad driver with WLED software... perfect setup!
Another vote for 24v and higher LED strips. (I know 70v speaker systems can be wired without any special electrical permit in the US.) This is the easiest way to avoid that voltage drop. Plus, especially since you put both ends of the LED strip in the same spot, wire the positive lead to one end of the strip, and the negative lead to the other. If the build quality of the LED strip is reasonable, and all the parts carry similar electrical tolerance, you'll get perfectly even lighting down the whole strip.
Nice project. My only cringe moment was at the end when installing the panels. Your step ladder was UN safely kicked out. With all ladders, the base should be kicked out 1 foot for each 7 feet up. This ensures the force pushing down (your weight) won’t cause the ladder to slide out, resulting in broken ankles or worse. Keep safe!
Another important thing is to make sure your wires can handle the current, i think that for that amount of LED's these wires going to be warm, which is not a fire hazard but could potentially lead to LED flashlight or dimming.
If you don’t want to see the LED’s, you could route a channel into the back of the MDF so the LED’s are mounted in the MDF facing the wall, instead of on the quarter round facing out.
Instead of inset further, it might be easier to relocate the LED strips to the backside of the panels. That way it can't be seen from the front and all light is reflected light.
I'm so jealous of American houses sometimes. "if you don't have OSB you'll need heavy duty drywall anchors", I wish I had either of those! I live in the UK and all the interior walls are solid brick, and feel like they have lead in them because if I drill about 10 holes and my drill bit is dull as heck! And I need an SDS/SDS+ drill, not just an 18v cordless drill/driver.
A good idea to controller the LED's if you really don't want to install a switch in the hall, is to incorporate smart home switch adapter with the transformer, then you can set it on a timer or control wirelessly with google home or your preferred smart home management software
I like the over all project idea but there are some things that really worry me as far as electrical code. Depending on the code in your area, you can not wire low voltage with high voltage into the same holes, it is a fire/shock risk. Also the power supply used, I did not see a train relief for the cable coming out of the box. lastly, if you are having dimness in long runs of LEDs, you can add another set of power lines to inject power again, it is safe to do this because it is all parallel runs.
Really nice to put together video, looks great in the space too! I’m curious why a magnetic transformer was chosen? Those produce AC right?I’ve always seen constant current/voltage transformers, they are much smaller than magnetic ones. I always get jealous of dry wall projects, living in a country where pretty much every house is brick. 😅 Anyway great video!
12:30 Having 2 cleats will *not* distribute the weight, unless they are very precisely aligned. What they _will_ do is keep the top and bottom held flush to the wall, rather than floating outward away from the wall. But you could use a little piece for the bottom, rather than a whole length, making sure the top one is actually carrying the load. OSB doesn't hold screws well. Make sure you used the proper coarse threaded screws. For drywall, I would make sure I hit the studs rather than use anchors, or even glue the cleat to the wall (as I did with some shelves in the laundry room). using the screws included in the kit: Again, MDF has an infamous relationship with screws. Those are probably not the right ones. You didn't drill a pilot hole, either. Screws will chew out the threaded area of MDF and enlarge the hole over time. You have it easy because the pieces don't move.
These videos are so aesthetically pleasing with the music and visuals. I’m sure you guys will never sell, but these touches really set your home apart. Also, #ryobigang
Feel like maybe you should have added an access panel behind the wall to the control panel, should anything go wrong you just remove the wall panel, open the access hatch and then service it without having to remove the fireplace. You were already there with the french cleat mounting on the MDF panels. Also a suggestion on the LEDs - there are many very inexpensive, extendable LED strips that come with a remote control and driver already built in but I like how you reused old parts for a new approach - just wanted to point out that there's some semi-ready made solutions. You could also connect a motion sensor on either end of the hallway that would trigger the lights to come on as you approach, to save on power when no-one's moving.
Whereas I would have been inclined to either use longer French Cleats at the top, or use both of the pair of French Cleats at the top. Then you don’t have to worry about distribution of the weight between top and bottom.
re 65 pounds: I think I'd use canvas stretched over a lightweight frame. Of if you don't like that, use thin luan (think one ply from plywood) or hardboard (1/8 or 1/16 if it's available), with thin strips of whatever around the perimeter; perhaps 3" wide strips to get the same effect from the lights. Also, put a secret message on the back, including the year.
;-) parallel connection gives you consistent **voltage** ... and allows your strips to take whatever (milli)ampers they need as they are different length and has different consumption. Actually led strip itself is bunch of parallel connected segments placed physically "in one line" ... that's why you can cut on specified places without changing needed voltage .... It should NOT be brighter on begin than on end as all segments are connected to the same coper wire (node) and should have access to same voltage .... what you are telling, is "be aware of cheap led strips that have high transition resistance" ... yeah, it can happens and if you buy something super cheap/crappy or have super long strip (spool usually have 5 meters) ... in your case where you place strips in circle, you can consider connect both ends of the strip to the same driver -> that's the beauty of parallel connection ... And even if there is no strict code on 12V systems ... dont use some random twisted pair cable... just use something double insulated and round .. its bit more rigid, but you will be sure that you will not rub-off to the bare metal
Either you left out an explanation, or maybe got lucky. Not all dimmers are created equal. First, some LEDs do not work with dimmers and those that do require a PWM (pulse width modulation) dimmer.
I don't know about this design. You lost about 1 - 2 inches of hall way space? If I had to do this, I would include sound insulation behind the panels to make it worth while.
In low light enviroments, all laser colour work. Green is just straight up better in brighter situations, like outside. I would always spend more money to get a green one. You will notice the difference.
You did an amazing job with the LED strips. I am electrician, I’ve installed a lot of LED lighting, another nice feature is using diffusers( channels) this I believe gives a professional look and the lighting gives off a soft glow.
As a non-electrician, I can verify that corner diffuser channels will give a softer and more even light distribution. They cost more than wooden trim, but the result will be more "professional". In the end, it's all those small details that end up having a big impact on the overall cost of the project. For a DIY project, this is definitely well done!
Great choice on the LEDs. You chose the COB (circuit on board) style of LED which is my preferred type for indoor lighting like this as well. They give off that steady "strip" of light instead of the individual LED "dots" or hot spots. Great work here!
This turned out great! Sticking LED's directly to wood will shorten their lifespan though. If you ever replace them, put them in a shallow aluminum channel with a diffuser to dissipate the heat generated by the LED's! I would also use LED's rated at 50,000 hours for permanent installations so they'll last a lifetime.
You can use frosted plastic strips as diffusers, that way you can't see the actual LED strips.
Fantastic looking project. The end result looked amazing.
Strips of slat curtain's can be used as diffusers so that you don't see each LED.
@@1973Grejluder they could also try routing out a channel in the back of the board, so that the LEDs are hidden and shine on the wall.
@@itoibo4208 I was thinking about that, too, but it would make connecting the LEDs to power quite a bit trickier, given the French cleat system, and the outlet on the front of one of the panels. Also, the flat-90-degree-corners would pose a challenge.
To avoid low amperage ends on your led strips you can simply solder the power wires to both ends, obviouly minding the polarity (positive to positive and negative to negative).
Regarding the issue of long lengths of strips running dim at the far end, one trick is to "center feed" the strip. If you need a 26 foot total length strip, you can attach power whips at 13ft, aka in the center, and electrically, you now have two 13ft strips on each whip.
That's a great idea! I'll keep that in mind for future projects
Another trick is wiring positive and negative to opposite ends. This works well for designs where the ends are close, like looping around a room, but takes a lot of wire for long strips. @jblewis’ suggestion is a winner for that situation.
You can also use “power injection”. Example: where you have a single power connection at the source, double or triple the wire connections. Then connect one pair ( black and red), second set at the end and even a third pair in the middle. Yes, a lot of wire, but necessary for long LED runs. This is especially true when using RGB LEDs.
@@rickharms1This is the best solution. You can power hundreds of feet with this method.
@@rickharms1 what they are describing IS power injection. You’re describing the same thing
You go girl, i like how you and your husband work together. I can see how y'all were thinking ahead of the building of your house. Great job, keep up the good work 😊.
Shooting finishing nails without eye protection is wild. Might as well put that on your sponsor link list.
I added LEDs around the perimeter of my bedroom and used an RGB with a remote. I used a pair of aluminum L brackets to form an "U" channel, just because I had a lot of that stuff on hand and mounted it to the wall about 4" from the ceiling. Then I put some Cello foam about 3 layers to soften the light so I can dim it down. When I add my Dark Sky's Planetarium projector it makes me feel like I'm outside... It's very cool and fun to lay in bed and watch the stars with the ceiling slightly illuminated.
This looks great! I have a suggestion for next time -- try using 24V led strips instead of 12V, it's a lot easier to meet the power requirements since you only need half the amps.
I did this + agree. One problem with this is the availability and physical size of 24V transformers .. maybe just me but I had a hard time finding ones small enough to fit into the 4 gang boxes I had planned for them. 12V seem to have a lot more options and are more common to buy. Another option is to feed power at points down the strip.
@@glenbayley9697 for higher wattage applications where the voltage drop is enough of an issue to justify 24v, the transformers put off too much heat to stuff into a box
Neat project. The only thing wrong I saw was you need to install a connector where the cord enters your power supply for strain relief.
You can add light diffusion covers to the exposed LED light strips that should help 'hide' them as you come around a corner.
The Kreg sheet lifters are amazing, such a back saver. I really love the look of those lights.
Great project.
Tip for you and for others regarding the LED strip and power.
You can inject power at various places, and that way you would not have a voltage/amperage drop in the led strip and it will stay bright all it's length.
Also, with a router, you could drive out a socket for a 90 degree aluminum profile bar that diffuse the light and hides the LED strip.
Looks great, nice video. Instead of heavy MDF, you could have used some lightweight foam (polystyrene) render panels
What a neat project, an approach that wouldn't have occurred to me. I don't know what I'd do without a laser level, certainly I'd never be talked into wallpapering without one 🙂
where I live (the Netherlands) we have pre-primed MDF. I prefer that anytime, despite the higher cost, but it saved the sanding and priming costs/time
Great job… very creative… Nice look. French cleats are the bomb and loved your experiment. My recommendations to someone who wants to do this… just put the led strips on the MDF 3-4” in from edge.
Also, recommend a traditional power on/off with a wall switch. Remotes for lights are hassle in my opinion. Maybe a smart switch, they have dimmable.
We have a smart plug for our hallway lamp… “Alexa, turn on the hallway.”
Lots of options, but the remote is my least favorite.
I use 5v sk6812 strips which are fully programmable and can produce some crazy light shows. Perhaps also a motion sensor to turn them on when you are in the hall ;) They look great!
Really cool, looks kinda scifi and also like daylight :)
Great idea, love it! Gives me the idea to do the same thing for our hallway to display my wife's artwork.
Very nice. I was wondering how you were going to distribute the weight over 2 cleats ... love the double sided tape trick.
Easier way is to put 2 cleats at the top, then only a spacer block at the bottom, if you worry about wobble the weight of the sheet will be ok. But if you have kids and they go colliding in your walls then I would put some double sided tape at the bottom
The french cleats are so brilliant!! I would have been nailing those things to the wall somehow. Not only easy to install but the ability to nudge them is epic
Good morning 🌅, very nice job, France.
Cool idea, would be awesome to incorporate some smart home tech to make them turn on as you walk by too.
You don't need smart tech, a simple PIR detector would be enough to trigger the lights and have them turn off automatically after a short period of time. Just like the motion detecting outdoor lights.
@@maxximumb I think PIR qualifies as being smart. Obviously, some more fancy circuitry could trigger them to come on in steps in the direction you are coming from. I have seen that on stairs and it looks decent.
3 PIR motion detectors would be even better, so each panel comes on separately as you walk by. 😊
That looks incredible! You may have given me inspiration for my back basement wall.
discovered you today first time, damn thats some work.
Best to put the LEDs in the panel facing the wall. No direct line of sight no matter what that way.
My point of view. You could of just router out 1/2 in the mdf. Then mounted the Leds to the mdf . That way when you come around the corner you wouldn't see it. And skip all the other thing you did with the trim. But Awesome job , Love other DIY people and all the things that we do to make a smile on our faces.
Great idea. My basement staircase is going to get an upgrade like this.
Should have used aluminum channel for the strip. Cob strips heat up and fail fairly quickly if they don't have a way to dissipate the heat.
Very cool project and execution. For my personal tastes, I would install a smart controller that would allow wireless control (and dimming) via WiFi and a smartphone (many work with remotes as well).
Yet another cool and bright project! I really like h9w the LED's lit up your hallway!
Well done!
Cool idea. Gave me an idea I want to try on my shed. Great video.
You did a very professional work here great vid and it looks amazing ^^ keep it up 💯💯
Nice work👍💪
Strips of slat curtain's can be used as diffusers so that you don't see each LED.
I recommend Chris Maher WLED tutorials.
WLED is definitely the way to go vs any other control unit like the dimmer used here. Also, there are specific power supplies designed for this and are very inexpensive.
Yes, she probably should have used a Meanwell (or similar) power supply for cheap, reliable 12V power. That's what I used to power 95ft of LEDs across my house. DigQuad driver with WLED software... perfect setup!
Beautiful work, guys! Really well done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Absolutely a perfect job on the LED lighting.
They look great! Thanks for sharing your talents!
I'd cut cleats in 2 or even 3 pieces each to distribute weight between studs and make panel more stable.
Another vote for 24v and higher LED strips. (I know 70v speaker systems can be wired without any special electrical permit in the US.) This is the easiest way to avoid that voltage drop. Plus, especially since you put both ends of the LED strip in the same spot, wire the positive lead to one end of the strip, and the negative lead to the other. If the build quality of the LED strip is reasonable, and all the parts carry similar electrical tolerance, you'll get perfectly even lighting down the whole strip.
Nice project. My only cringe moment was at the end when installing the panels. Your step ladder was UN safely kicked out. With all ladders, the base should be kicked out 1 foot for each 7 feet up. This ensures the force pushing down (your weight) won’t cause the ladder to slide out, resulting in broken ankles or worse. Keep safe!
Easy check for correct angle is that her feet should be level. You could see they were tilted up at the heel, not good.
This looks absolutely awesome.
Glad to see you're still making stuff, and glad the algorithm brought you back to me lol
Another important thing is to make sure your wires can handle the current, i think that for that amount of LED's these wires going to be warm, which is not a fire hazard but could potentially lead to LED flashlight or dimming.
If you don’t want to see the LED’s, you could route a channel into the back of the MDF so the LED’s are mounted in the MDF facing the wall, instead of on the quarter round facing out.
Wow what a morning! thought you up just the other day and you drop a video after months :) hope all is well
Instead of inset further, it might be easier to relocate the LED strips to the backside of the panels. That way it can't be seen from the front and all light is reflected light.
Very neat idea. Thanks for sharing this video.
Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
What is that tool you’re using to pickup the sheets? That’s super cool and would be sooo helpful in carrying sheets easier as a tradesman
It's a sheet good carrier from Kreg. It's great! I shared a link in the description box
@@PneumaticAddict thank you
I'm so jealous of American houses sometimes. "if you don't have OSB you'll need heavy duty drywall anchors", I wish I had either of those! I live in the UK and all the interior walls are solid brick, and feel like they have lead in them because if I drill about 10 holes and my drill bit is dull as heck! And I need an SDS/SDS+ drill, not just an 18v cordless drill/driver.
On the plus side, the termites can't destroy your walls.
A good idea to controller the LED's if you really don't want to install a switch in the hall, is to incorporate smart home switch adapter with the transformer, then you can set it on a timer or control wirelessly with google home or your preferred smart home management software
I like the over all project idea but there are some things that really worry me as far as electrical code. Depending on the code in your area, you can not wire low voltage with high voltage into the same holes, it is a fire/shock risk. Also the power supply used, I did not see a train relief for the cable coming out of the box. lastly, if you are having dimness in long runs of LEDs, you can add another set of power lines to inject power again, it is safe to do this because it is all parallel runs.
sheet good carriers are so underrated.
Great Project! Now just add a motion sensor to activate them when you raid the fridge at night.
Really nice to put together video, looks great in the space too!
I’m curious why a magnetic transformer was chosen? Those produce AC right?I’ve always seen constant current/voltage transformers, they are much smaller than magnetic ones.
I always get jealous of dry wall projects, living in a country where pretty much every house is brick. 😅
Anyway great video!
Ah I looked up the transformer, makes sense seeing how easy it is to control the brightness 👍
The house looks crispy 🤌🏼
Next time, look into WLED and a ESP32 board as a controller
Put the led strips on the back of the panels. You won’t see them then.
12:30 Having 2 cleats will *not* distribute the weight, unless they are very precisely aligned.
What they _will_ do is keep the top and bottom held flush to the wall, rather than floating outward away from the wall. But you could use a little piece for the bottom, rather than a whole length, making sure the top one is actually carrying the load.
OSB doesn't hold screws well. Make sure you used the proper coarse threaded screws. For drywall, I would make sure I hit the studs rather than use anchors, or even glue the cleat to the wall (as I did with some shelves in the laundry room).
using the screws included in the kit: Again, MDF has an infamous relationship with screws. Those are probably not the right ones. You didn't drill a pilot hole, either. Screws will chew out the threaded area of MDF and enlarge the hole over time. You have it easy because the pieces don't move.
Right, the cleats on the bottom aren't carrying any weight, just stabilizing the panel.
Nice idea! Looks great!
These videos are so aesthetically pleasing with the music and visuals. I’m sure you guys will never sell, but these touches really set your home apart. Also, #ryobigang
Rockin’ dem jeans baby, oh yeah!
Nice job, beautiful 👍
Feel like maybe you should have added an access panel behind the wall to the control panel, should anything go wrong you just remove the wall panel, open the access hatch and then service it without having to remove the fireplace. You were already there with the french cleat mounting on the MDF panels.
Also a suggestion on the LEDs - there are many very inexpensive, extendable LED strips that come with a remote control and driver already built in but I like how you reused old parts for a new approach - just wanted to point out that there's some semi-ready made solutions.
You could also connect a motion sensor on either end of the hallway that would trigger the lights to come on as you approach, to save on power when no-one's moving.
Whereas I would have been inclined to either use longer French Cleats at the top, or use both of the pair of French Cleats at the top. Then you don’t have to worry about distribution of the weight between top and bottom.
What happens when the adhesive starts to wear off and the leds begin to sag? How can i fix that if the lights are still good?
I love your hair. Wish my wife was like you.
i DONT' THINK 3INCHES IS QUITE DEEP ENOUGH. (BEAVIS LAUGHS)
How about adding a motion sensor
re 65 pounds:
I think I'd use canvas stretched over a lightweight frame.
Of if you don't like that, use thin luan (think one ply from plywood) or hardboard (1/8 or 1/16 if it's available), with thin strips of whatever around the perimeter; perhaps 3" wide strips to get the same effect from the lights.
Also, put a secret message on the back, including the year.
i love this.
;-) parallel connection gives you consistent **voltage** ... and allows your strips to take whatever (milli)ampers they need as they are different length and has different consumption. Actually led strip itself is bunch of parallel connected segments placed physically "in one line" ... that's why you can cut on specified places without changing needed voltage ....
It should NOT be brighter on begin than on end as all segments are connected to the same coper wire (node) and should have access to same voltage .... what you are telling, is "be aware of cheap led strips that have high transition resistance" ... yeah, it can happens and if you buy something super cheap/crappy or have super long strip (spool usually have 5 meters) ... in your case where you place strips in circle, you can consider connect both ends of the strip to the same driver -> that's the beauty of parallel connection ...
And even if there is no strict code on 12V systems ... dont use some random twisted pair cable... just use something double insulated and round .. its bit more rigid, but you will be sure that you will not rub-off to the bare metal
You glow girl!
Do you do voice overs for DW?
Nice, I like it!
I wish you had put them on PIR's so i could see how to do that :(
Nice! 👍🏻
Ur cute with your lil dimples
How did you get Gordon Ramsey help you carry the sheet goods from truck into garage? He did look a lot like him. Lol
"Fireplace" 🤣
Love it
the perfectionist in me hated that you didnt miter your corners even though its hidden behind the panel.
Good lord 😍😍
ALWAYS make sure you consult with LISCENCED professionals ... so if it goes sideways you have some one to blame and can sue
You could have bought AC 110 V LED strips and not have to buy the converter. That's what I use in my home.
Either you left out an explanation, or maybe got lucky. Not all dimmers are created equal. First, some LEDs do not work with dimmers and those that do require a PWM (pulse width modulation) dimmer.
Yeah, I was totally amazed it worked at all. I expect the DC transformer will not last long!
She is like real life Bulma
I wanted to see a red color hair...
I agree 3 inches is not deep enough.
Golly im in love too 🥹👉🏻👈🏻
*cough, we run off of 120 / 240 not 110 cough*
3 inch’s not deep enough, welp, 🤷♂️
OMG, you are a total babe! No disrespect intended!
can i marry a lady like this please
I don't know about this design. You lost about 1 - 2 inches of hall way space? If I had to do this, I would include sound insulation behind the panels to make it worth while.
You gave up on your DIY doors?
Синяя борода здесь 😂