DriftArt 3S 1st Test Drive
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- Опубликовано: 18 мар 2023
- This is just to test if the car runs OK.
All the electronics and setup are subject to change especially the motor and ESC.
List of distributors: / 568307144305838
Boss RC (Europe) www.boss-rc.nl/search?q=Drift...
Super-G(USA-Los Angeles) SuperGdrift.com/
GT55(Ship to global)www.gt55racing.com/search/?Ke...
HRC (HK,Ship to global)www.hrcarena.store/?q=Driftar...
Project Z Arena(Thailand)shopee.co.th/project_z s.lazada.co.th/s.U7nxK
Rc Hut(UK) www.rchut.co/?s=Driftart&post_type=product
DriftManji (UK) driftmanjirc.com/
HeliDirect, LLC www.helidirect.com/
SurabayaRC (Indonesia)www.surabayarc.com/category/61...
Rc Supremacy (USA -Florida Ocala)rcsupremacy.com/search?q=Drif... - Хобби
So smooth! And quiet 😊
Looks super controllable for a first run.
Amazing!!! Love the slides!!! Beautiful build! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
You really need a micro track & silicone spray imo.
Would love to see you try it out! 👍
Wowawewa very nice!!!
Cool rc drift car 🚘
Nice drifting! You should review the drift track made by... I think it's "Drift Thailand" or something like that. They are really nice looking tracks.
I've been looking at that for a while but I don't think I'm going get it because of the import tax.
Great 👍👍👍
Hi Beaver! I always look forward to your videos. And of course I bought this one and it’s on the way. What are some of the top, out of box upgrades you suggest, if any at all?
I'd say it drives great already out of the box. Just don't forget to pick up a body mounting kit with it (whether Mini-Z or magnet mount) because there's none as standard.
@@BeaversHobby Sounds good, Thanks Beaver! I’ve learned to custom mount from your past video and it’s saved a lot of money on pre made mounting kits 😎
Please more videos on this
Notification squad!
I really like your content, you can feel there is someone with a lot of knowledge! I am thinking about getting into 1:24/1:28th scale drifting but have no possibility to do that at home. Is it even feasible for these cars to be used outside? What is a good chassis & electronics to start with that doesn't blow the bank account from the get-go?
Unfortunately you won't have RWD drift if you want to play outside. Some of the cars with enclosed gearbox can play outdoor like WLtoys K989/K969/284131 www.banggood.com/custlink/3KD5hEukIO . You will need to but some extra drift tyres though. This will work. www.banggood.com/custlink/vKKHyEwM8u No need to get the Kyosho.
Also, the road or the driveway needs to be smooth for the car to work.
With an RTR like WLtoys you can start playing it immediately. The other thing you will have to buy is a toolkit for maintenance. Basically you will need Philips cross screwdriver (everyone should have that already), 1.5mm hex Allen key or hex screw driver. Also a 4mm nut driver to remove the wheels. You can get all of this from a toolbox for computer like this. www.banggood.com/custlink/vKGtyY7qjp
You can probably find it in your local computer or electronic store. Just make sure it has the socket for 4mm and 4.5mm (just in case you upgrade the lock nuts to aluminium).
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the detailed answer! I got two WlToys 284131 sitting here, already freed up the drivetrain with your video explanations. Will get these tires and give it a try. What's the minimum space you need inside for a small drift track in your opinion? Thaks again, much appreciated!
@@b.k.4319 Don't worry. You don't need much space to drift. My drift track is the space in my bedroom which is 1.4M x 1.9M. ruclips.net/video/wM-k0NpaxMg/видео.html
You can also use whatever space left in your room to drift. As long as it's flat and smooth or if there's thin carpet. Just drift around the chair and table legs and you'll be alright.
Can you show your Ackerman and how everything on ur chassis/remote is set up
after taking a look at the frame, im guessing the motor has to sit higher in order to shorten the overall length to 1/28 scale. I want to put mini-z autoscale collection 94" - 98" front to back wheel length bodies on this chassis but looking at how high the motor has to sit, it looks like not all mini-z bodies will fit on this chassis.
Yes, the trouble for making it compact is that you'll have to move the motor around. There are more possible motor configurations like putting it at the back and lower down or moving it more inboard but you'll need to route all the wires differently and that can become a problem on some small bodies.
Lots of traction ~ but slides nice for the first outing.
Hi Beaver, great videos!!! You have me addicted.
I started with a mini Z awd and it's fun, now I want a rwd car.
I have ordered the DA3S chassis but struggling on best electronics components. You said you will change yours here why??
Maybe you can suggest a good set up for me? I'm just in the game for fun and want a good performing drift car. So middle of the range is where I'm thinking.
Thank you in advance.
I'm going to change the ESC and motor because the plug stands up and it collides with the body. I'll either change them to sensored system or re-solder the wires if I can't get anything at this time. Basically the electronics are fine, just the plugs and wire length bother me a bit.
For DriftArt 5500KV motor is good. You can use the small side of the pully to get slow speed or use big side to get it to roll easily.
Good price-performance is either Surpass Rocket 1410 V2 motor with DasMikro ESC or Atomic ESC (what I have in this video)/GL Racing ESC. GL Racing has the same performance but it might be more convenient if you don't want to cut the plug from Atomic out and re-solder everything.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply, i will use this info and start to make some orders. keep up the great work.
I am also modifying my MA020 to make it better at drifting, same mods as yours..
hope to see more videos of your MA020.
Thanks for sharing. What about Servo? Any recommendations for DA3S?
Hi Beaver like to ask what battery and charger you use and where do you buy it from? my drift art 3s is coming soon and I'd like to copy your set up thank you for the awesome review keep it up man
I use the Marka Racing 2S 350mAh www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=795_267_224&products_id=13221 ) or GNB (Gaoneng) 2S 7.6V 350mAh HV www.banggood.com/custlink/DvmVhaiIYN depending on the body width. If it's difficult to find then you can also use GL Racing or Atomic 350mAh.
As for the charger I now use SkyRC S65 www.skyrc.com/Charger/s65 . You will need to make an adapter according to your battery though. For Marka you will need to split the only JST-PH into XT60 for charging and JST-XH for balance. For GNB you will only need the XT30 to XT60 because there's already a balance plug.
@@BeaversHobby thank you Beaver continue making content for mini rc I can learn this hobby from you
Hi beaver finish my drift art I just want to ask with the esc the plug that came from furitek is quite small what should I change it with to fit a 2s lipo battery
@@littlesadface The plugs is JST-PH 2.0mm (2mm between pins). It's a common plug for micro cars. Normal balance plug is JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pin. You can replace the plug on the ESC with this or pretty much anything else the battery has.
What spring are you running, or can you give me a baseline on springs as I'm building my first DA3 (first drift car).
Its the stock setup, front no. 6 (almost hardest) and rear no.1 softest.
will a battery for wl toys fit this or will it be to big, and or to low "C" rating? It looks like a battery like that in the video
The battery tray is adjustable so yes, you can make it fit. As for the low C rating, with this scale and power requirement you won't feel much difference with more fancy and expensive battery to warrant an upgrade.
How many percent you set for sensibility on that Gyro? I'm using the same one, but if I set it over 40% it will shake without control on normal mode, and has nothing on assistan mode. Could you help me setting up on that gyro? ( how many gain, how many percent of sensibility, and yoir experience,....) I use the NB4 TX
On this car I use between 43 and 48. If the gyro shakes excessively then maybe the tyres are not perfectly rounded, the floor is too rough or the linkages have something loose. It can come from many things. Generally I recommend mounting it with soft double sided tape far away from vibration sources. I put it in the middle of the car though.
Is that chassis evolved and simplified enough that you’d recommend it for people that are not that into complicated builds?
In comparison to the 2.6
The trouble is that, DA3S is easier to build in the front but it is harder to tune or even get it working correctly in the back. The whole car is easier to build. But the back is separated so the gearbox is floating without any plate support and that makes it hard to do the alignment.
Is it worth upgrading from version 2.5? Looking forward to the comparison video.
In terms of driving, no. I don't feel any difference between them. This one is easier to build and because the rear has adjustable belt tension, the belt is not going to slip as easily as 2.5-2.6.
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How did you get your chassis to be so bouncy with that travel? I built mine to the manual's specs with the springs it specified and mine just slams to the ground with the motor installed (no body)
You will need to adjust the collar on the shocks to push the suspension up. Install all the electronics including the battery and the body. See if it has good ground clearance. If not, adjust the collar to push the springs down.
@@BeaversHobby How do you adjust the collar? The top screw? Even screwing them down all the way to compress the spring causes them to slam to the ground with no travel.
Thanks for the reply!
@@Raguvian Turn the shock cylinder and you will see the screw going in or out. That will push the car up.
Try round tires. It would be slow so it's easier to control.
Thanks. It's much more manageable on wooden floor than on my vinyl mat for both rounded and LF-5. Rounded seems to be even faster on my mat.
I tried to coat it with WD40 and it worked for a while. Seems like it has dried off.
@@BeaversHobby I tried silicone spray but that dries up too. Furiture polish spray like pledge is better, it contains silicone oil. Don't know how it would work on your mat though
@@hightorquerc Since it's really good on the wooden floor I think something that has the same effect as the floor varnish should work. I'll just have to find one like that for my mat.
HI Beaver, would you recommend driftart 3 over bmr x pro? Planning on using 1/24 bodies only. Thanks
Look at the body you want to use first because BMR-X Pro has pretty high motor mount and it's not adjustable. Otherwise even though I don't have it, the way BMR does things is way easier to build for a beginner than DriftArt. If you already have experience building cars, DriftArt will give you more adjustability.
Thank you for the feedback. Always can count on you for rc knowledge. Good to know that it is not adjustable. I build plenty of 1/10 drift car and recently a drzv2 limited. Just want another micro drift car bigger size as in a 1/24 scale.
@@goneviral3890 My pleasure. Check out the manuals too. That will help you to decide much easier.
BMR-X Pro www.bmracing.cc/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/BMRX-PRO-Maunal.pdf?fbclid=IwAR33E45Dxl-EQgGwUrRJnWlrSGaPrH0g4j7Ikjqc86mvwIFPYAeoM8SPhAE
DA3S onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21AJVg6Up3RESXyYU&id=F764187691F7C974%211241&cid=F764187691F7C974&parId=root&parQt=sharedby&o=OneUp
Thank you for the manual. Think I’ll go for the drift art3! Have more adjustable parts.
Some more questions about the drift art 3. What kind of wheels does it take and what you recommend if running 1/24 bodies (wheel and drift tires sizes)? Lastly, does the kit comes with magnetic body mounts? If not what mount do you recommend? Thanks 🙏
hi can you make a video of a budget build for wltoys 284010? drift
It will be the same as 2021 except the ESC is DasMikro V3 or PN Racing V2. Everything else is the same.
ruclips.net/video/j9pO35iaqfo/видео.html
Do they even really perform better compare to cheaper ones like GLD and Atomic DRZ? Prices are getting ridiculously high with the thinking of much more expensive means better performance, not always the case just different set up and platform on these hobby, and parts are even harder to get.
When looking at the price per performance, GLD will be really close when upgraded up to the same price as an out of the box DA. The main thing that GLA doesn't have is the bouncy and long travel suspension for better weight transfer.
Yes, it's up to the setup and the difference is how easy or intuitive you can do on each chassis.
DA is unique with the ackerman setup by moving the servo back and forth. But realistically if a chassis already has good ackerman, you don't need to touch that.
@@BeaversHobby yes, that suspension travel though, it’s like 3x of its counter part. With the knowledge and capabilities you have, you can fully manipulate the options and settings, even if you buy them or not, they are too expensive for casual drifters like me that a must have wltoys(to start up with and expriment) and 1 atomic drz v2 would be enough, with your help on your reviews which one is practical and reasonable to have. Thanks as always 👍😊👍
The velg wheel what is that?
PN Racing AWD wheels, F1 (narrow 1mm offset) with BBS pattern in black.