My neighbor just gave me one of these and she's a fixer upper for sure. I was so excited to see that you made a series on this machine! I have the one with the drop feed. Thank you again, Andy!
@@rendmendecclesiastes3728 wow that's a nice gift and it's a beautiful machine with a unique hook and needle bar system I really enjoyed learning about it I think you will too best of luck with it
Hi andy, Thanks for this video. I just fixed my mom's Sewing Machine. It was not working for more than 5 years. I can remember someone came and serviced it. Unfortunately, that guy tight that bottom moving part too much. I only realized it at 23:19 . Thank you so much for pointing it.
I'm glad you found the video. It's nice of you to take the time to comment. I have 20 more videos for this model in my "Stella" Playlist if you want to learn more about the machine. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h It's a fascinating model and so strong. Take care.
I just bought a 237, for only $10.. Mine looks exactly like Stella, other than the foot pedal. Thank you so much for your videos. You are the best! I need to clean mine and at least change the belt before I can even try sewing with it. I love that I can easily follow what you're showing and saying. That helps me feel confident that I can do this myself.
Thank you, Patty. You sure can do it yourself and it will be very rewarding. You'll have a great machine for a small investment. I glad you found my channel. If you have questions along the way just ask. Take Care.
Another great video Andy. I just picked up a 237 at a Thrift Store for $20 and plan to follow along with you step-by-step. Should be a great opportunity to learn more from you. Thank you.
Isn't it satisfying to find a good machine for that price? Even if you need a few parts replaced like motor belt, light bulb or tension spring it is a fantastic value. We will be learning about the moving hook on this machine together then. Thanks for watching.
Eager to get started Andy! Only real problem I see so far is that one of the top cover screws has been cross-threaded -- and the nose cone screw--same issue. I have the darker beige model but without the feed dog drop control feature. I'm also not sure if the controller is OEM....I have my doubts, but not certain. @@andytubesewing1953
Dang, sorry to hear about those screws. I assume they have proprietary thread spacing, but maybe not. A fellow wrote me that is a situation like this he uses a tap-and-die set to make new holes in a standard size and replaces the screws. I have never done that before. See you along the way, Robert.
I hope you enjoy it then, Melanie. A Strong and Versatile machine as you can see: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Good to know there isn’t any plastic gears in this model should I run across a “deal”. Can’t wait for you to begin your process of cleaning and restoring this one.
Thanks Andy! So looking forward to this series. As I mentioned in the preview video, I have just purchased a 237M last week. Mine is the the one with the lighter scheme cover and feed dog KNOB. And came with the Brown plastic foot pedal. Pic: photos.app.goo.gl/D2MjvUiqAcGrxhXh8 And YES - That is one heavy machine! I was surprised when I lifted it the first time. Owning a 404 and 301a, big difference! +Also, the presser foot tension knob is different.
Yes, a moment of clarity! Thanks for showing us how the hook shaft shifts back and forth, something that escaped me on my own machine. It makes perfect sense that the hook below would move at the same time that the needle bar is swinging back and forth up above in zigzag mode. The hook has to move with the needle to keep forming the stitch, all of which adds another aspect to needle bar timing. It's no longer simply a matter of the vertical location of the needle in relation to the hook, but also a matter of horizontal location. Otherwise the hook would either miss the thread loop hanging off the needle, or the needle would hit the hook. The mechanism connected to the stitch width lever has a lot of work to do. Does all this form a better quality stitch than is done with a zigzag accessory foot, which solves the problem by shifting the fabric back and forth rather than the needle? Sometime down the line you might take a look at the Singer 319, which seems like an engineering marvel at another level of complexity.
It certainly is an interesting hook system. I have not seen it before and emailed friends to see if they have or can tell me other models that use it. I had the opportunity to buy a model 319 a few years back. It was sure a different type of machine than I had seen before. I gave it a good look-over. The only horizontal camshaft I've seen on a Singer. A "cleated" drive belt made from 11 braided fiber "strings" wrap with 3 metal bands every inch or so. "Typewriter" style keys on top for pattern selection with a couple dozen additional flat pattern cams or discs that could be attached to a mechanism on the front. An odd size needle that is shorter than the 15x1 style and cost 3 times as much. It surely had an industrial bobbin/hook combo on it; not class 15 or 66. It was a very powerful machine with great stitching quality and with the noise that provided all that power and movement. With proper care, it seemed like it could sew forever. It just did not appeal to me and I passed on it, but it sold an hour later to a fellow from Canada who had been searching for one a whole year and was ecstatic to find it and thought I was a fool to pass it up.
Hi Andy, Thank you for all your helpful information regarding the 237's. I recently picked one up that was very stiff and the feed dog was frozen. Following your lubrication guidelines, I slowly worked my way through the machine using the handwheel as my turning method, to clean and lubricate and gradually freed everything up to turn very freely. My dilemna is upon tilting the machine (which i did before I started my lube and cleaning) there were some parts laying in the tray. I realize now they are associated with the bakelite plastic bobbin gate .The gate's hinge side ( i think thats what you'd call it) was broken. There was a tiny roll pin, a small coil spring and a flat notched key like object. I never had the advantage of seeing these pieces in situ, and am asking if you might be able to point me to guidance for re-assembling this once the new part arrives. I don't remember seeing you completely take the bobbin gate off, but could have missed that. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. My guess is, someone broke this a long time ago and the machine sat as a "when I get to it" repair. I'm so happy with how freely everything moves and quietly , i look forward to completing it and seeing how it sews. Thanks, Jim
Hey, Jim. No, I never took the gate off. There is nothing about that in the service manual that I saw and I did not want to have a problem. There are a number of associated parts to it and it must be fairly common for the plastic gate to break from age b/c you can buy a new one. They sell the gate only and here is the best price from a known seller: www.sewingpartsonline.com/race-cover-singer-352075.aspx There are other sellers also, and sometimes the part will be for sale on eBay when a seller parts out a machine. There are a couple of better views of the gate in other videos. Start at @1:06:42 of this video; ruclips.net/video/rqXbbbEX78k/видео.html and @1:15:10 of this video; ruclips.net/video/ybRA_1qYw58/видео.html Better yet, if you'd like the parts & service manuals for the machine you can email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for model 237/239 records. Alan will reply with PDF copies and then delete your email. No charge. The same parts for this are used on both the 237 & 239 models if you go looking for used parts. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
When I was doing the goodwill auctions I noticed the desire for the 237's go from no interest to fairly popular. At first they would go through there without a single bid then it got to the point every one would sell and they started commanding a fair price. I never really noticed that some had feed dog drops and some didn't. It looks to me that both Singer and Kenmore would from time to time use the Mercury controllers as well as some of the Japanese models. I have one of the Japanese "precision deluxe" machines marketed through Dayton and badged "Electrohygene" that has a Mercury controller that I know is original to that machine, it's a 1965. My newest treasure is a Kenmore 158-17501 from 1968 which I assume is the competing model to the Singer 237 of that era, and it weighs in at 43 pounds I'm told, I haven't actually thrown it on the scale, but bet that's pretty close, she's a real backbreaker, but an AWESOME machine. I call her the Beast. Looking forward to your series.
Thank you for the information about the foot controller. I'm still searching for documents about it, but no joy so far. I thought Stella was a heavy machine at 28lbs buy your "Beast" at over 40lbs tops that easily. Thanks for watching.
I'll be interested to see what you come up with. The more I see and learn about the Kenmore's I have to come to the conclusion they are Superior machines to the Singers, probably not what you want to hear. There were several different companies in Japan that produced the Kenmore machines for sears 148 series =Soryu in Japan 158 series =Maruzen in Japan (later Jaguar) 385 series =Janome And of course White of Cleveland Ohio in the beginning. The 158's are made by Maruzen and based off of the Italian machines like the Necchi which I probably spelled wrong. I have grown very fond of them, they are designed, balanced, and built, to very high standards. The 1750 I spoke of above will be my keeper of a zig zag machine, I absolutely love it, it's quite, fast, and smooth, and probably one of the most powerful of the domestic machines, with a 1.2 amp motor it went through 6 layers of denim without a thought. The only Singer I have run so far that was that smooth was the 201-2 I like the Cams setup the 1750 uses too, very simple to use and very little adjustment to worry with, set your length and width and you are off and running with design after design, almost like an embroidery machine. I think a person could do about anything they wanted with that one machine.
I don't mind hearing about the Kenmores. The one machine I restored was built very well and ran wonderfully. ruclips.net/video/xF2BFA36CPk/видео.html I just find the Singer machines and parts more available and better liked by the buyers in my area. Maybe you can do a channel like mine, but will all Kenmore machines. Then we could have a head-to-head sew off!!! Take Care, Mark.
I am inspired to fix my 237M-A that I was given in 1969. It has stayed with me and only recently given me a problem. The needle won’t pick up the bobbin thread. I replaced the broken race gate and thought that would do it. No. Mine has a Bakelite foot pedal , wish it was like the metal one on this video. I will watch some more tomorrow and will leave all the pieces laying out on the table. There has to be an adjustment to make the needle pick up the bobbin thread.?
It's a very nice model; congratulations. Most vintage Singer models have a method for setting the timing of the needlepoint to the hook point. Model 237 has a different system of hook (traveling) and the timing is factory set by the way the shafts are assembled at the factory. There are a couple of mechanical reasons that can cause the loss of picking up the bobbin thread, which is really the hook point is not carrying the needle thread around the bobbin thread) The one we mostly find is that the height of the needle bar changed, often due to a needle strike or sewing very heavy material for a long time. If the height of the needle changes it is not in the correct place for the hook to grab the needle thread. Simply checking and resetting the height of the needle bar back to the factor height fixes that problem. I did make a video about the needle bar height (and presser bar height) including how to check/set the height. That is the first place I would look when troubleshooting this problem. You can find the video here: ruclips.net/video/bRjfg2VaqP4/видео.html If that doesn't help you solve the problem, there is another adjustment, but I don't have a video of it and you would need the Service Manual to follow. Good luck.
I also have a broken race gate. Can you tell me how you replaced it? I have the replacement part and the service manual, but I can't figure out how the hinge part goes on.
@@andytubesewing1953 , Thank you for that answer, Andy. My daughter just gave me her 237M to fix because the timing is messed up. I always have hope when I can find an Andy Tube explanation!
@@jeanleder9919 Hi Jean. Yes, it's usually something that changed the height of the needle bar, and resetting that corrects the timing. I appreciate you watching my channel. 😊
I was given a 237M with the feed dog knob. I want to clean it up and get it working so I can sew some clothes for my kids. Hopefully this series will help me!
I got a couple of these 237s from a friend that use to repairs sewing machines. I've been fixing them up for treadle zigzag, one of them has a SLIGHT wobble in the balance wheel, like the main shaft is a little bent. The other is straight. Is this normal, or something to be concerned about, or can it be fixed? Or should I not worry about it, and use it like it is?
I guess the main thing is if it sews properly. I've had machines with bent handwheels that worked OK and I usually replaced the handwheel. I've only had one machine where the arm shaft was bent along with the wheel. An obvious drop situation. Because I fixed the machines to sell to people, I sold that machine to a guy who takes them apart and sells the pieces on eBay. I do not know the long-term results of using a machine with a bent shaft; how that wears on all the connecting parts, etc.
I have tried a few (3) other balance wheels, and bushings, with the same results. That's why I think it's the shaft. I have rigged it with a spoked wheel and have a hand crank on it now. It still sews at a high speed, but there is a slight wobble. There is a benefit auction (and fish fry) for an Amish neighbor lady Friday, and I was going to donate it to raise some money. The Amish ladies love these older zigzag machines that can be treadled. I can't tell any signs of it ever being dropped but it is older than me. I was hoping that some of these were just a little bit off, and it was nothing unusual.
The 237 I was given yesterday is the darker model with the lighter cover plate and the feed dog knob. It's not made in Italy or Brazil though, it's made here in Canada.
I just got one i found on the side of the road , canadian as well , painted right on the machine . Giving this girl a restore just need a bobbin door , its plastic or nylon its broken on the top , looks like the needle went through it so im thinking timing was off or someone was forcing fabric through it instead of letting the machine do the work
I have a refurbished 237 given me a month ago by a friend. Your videos have been EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you! I started a new sewing project yesterday and after sewing one seam perfectly, on the second seam the thread got stuck where the bobbin fits (in the shuttle?) and stopped everything. Can you explain how to dismantle that mechanism to get the thread out? I have a photo I could send you of where the thread is jammed.
I don't have the machine now, but starting about 1:15:00 in this video I show some of that shuttle/hook assembly ruclips.net/video/ybRA_1qYw58/видео.html If you don't have the instruction manual it is free here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 You can buy the complete Service Manual for the machine for $10 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ It shows all the adjustments for the machine, including the shuttle race parts.
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, you're a dreamboat!!! I watched the section of video you suggested and saw how easy it is to remove the hook and VOILA the threads fell out! How can I repay you???
Hi Andy I have this machine, it was originally my mothers. I cannot find needles that fit into this without falling out. Can you tell me what needle you are using and where I may find them?
Hi, Natalie. The needle type is 15x1 and very available. Your needle clamp may be missing a small part called a Gib that holds the needle in place when you tighten the thumbscrew. My machine was missing it and here is a video about replacing it: ruclips.net/video/kVB-_1dmOFo/видео.html here is one seller of the GIB: www.sewingpartsonline.com/gib-needle-clamp-singer-86822-803.aspx You can also find the GIB with the needle clamp for sale on sites like eBay some times: www.ebay.com/i/174254225511?chn=ps I may be wrong about this as I can't see or touch your machine to test it, but you can easily see if you have the Gib or not. Good Luck and here are all 21 of my videos for the 237/237: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
Hello Andy! Quick question! ….. Had my “Beige Brenda” 237 all cleaned.oiled and spinning like a top…. So i dove right in to my first project and about a half hour in I must of made the big rookie mistake of trying to control the fabric too much and had my first broken needle 😢! ….. Now Brenda is pissed! And she won’t dance!….. my top thread is getting tied up down below around the shuttle and breaking off at the needle….. I don’t see anything bent below …..but not sure! Could I have knocked Brenda’s timing out of whack? You know what they say about a woman scorned 😂….. maybe you can point me in the right direction so I can repair this relationship…….. Thanks in advance Andy!
The timing is factory set and hard to knock out of time, BUT a needle strike/break can move the needle bar up or down, and that changes the time (so to speak) so the first thing I'd look at is the needle height being correct. Here is a playlist of videos for model 237: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Look down the list to find the presser/needle bar setting to learn how to check and/or set the height. There is also a video about the tension assembly which may have been damaged by the thread breaking repeatedly. You can also buy a copy of the original Service Manual for less than $10 at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ it should have instructions for setting the thread clearance at the hook and even the hook repair info. Good luck and hope Brenda gets back in service.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy! Yes i readjusted the height of the needle bar as per your video and Brenda came back on line! Thanks for all those videos in the 237 series! Amazing content!
@@timothyheckler173 have to love an easy fix like that. Now you know what to keep your eye out for. I'm glad you got your machine back in service. Thanks for letting me know and happy sewing!
I'm cleaning and fixing up a Singer 237 and I've noticed that the linkage from the upper arm to the lower oscillating hook shaft strikes the table if it's resting on the cast iron legs. I had assumed that it should be able to operate while sitting on the three cast "legs." Do you happen to know off hand if the machine is supposed to be able to operate while resting only on its cast "legs" or is it normal that it needs additional clearance to operate? It came with a plastic case so I can run it but only when it's in that case which provides enough clearance to complete a full rotation cycle. Thank you very much and I hope that my question makes sense.
The way this model is made it needs to be in a base or mounted in a cabinet so that the bottom part is not touching anything. It originally came in a kind of wooden case where the top pulled off and the machine stayed in the bottom. Personally, I would mount it in a cabinet if I could rather than trying to sew with it in the base because you have to take the fabric up over the base and under the presser foot and then back down. Good luck and thanks for fixing the machine
Thanks for your wonderful videos on the Fashion Mate 237. I found one in front of my building and have been working on getting it functional. However it's missing the spool pin and the replacement part I ordered is too small and falls straight through the machine. Was wondering if you have any insight into what spool pins work with the model. I do have the one with the knob in the front base.
According to the parts diagram for model 237/239 both spool pins are the same part number 173571. There are several sellers like this one: www.sewingpartsonline.com/spool-pin-singer-1247-sewing-machine.aspx If the correct spool pin seems too small then the hole for it could have been enlarged by a previous owner (you'd be surprised) or damaged. You can use a plastic fill and make a new hole or glue a new pin in place using water-soluble craft glue. Thanks for rescuing the machine and for watching my channel.
Hey Andy! Quick question! My 237 seems to miss a stitch every 20 stitches or so when in zigzag. Not sure if she’s missing the zig or the zag! Hahaha! But the rest of the stitches are nice and tight, top and bottom… in your experience, is this still a tension problem or should i be looking elsewhere ? Thanks for your time and hope your feeling well!
Normally skipping is a tension problem, but other things can cause it too. If you are still "helping" the fabric (even a little) it can skip, especially at the moment you move your hand on and off the fabric. Let the feed dog do the work. A test for that is to take a scrap fabric and sew ZZ without even touching the fabric (who cares if it goes crooked) and see if it still skips. If it does then it was not your fault. If it did NOT skip then learn to keep your hand off, haha. We know you had a needle height issue from the broken needle. From my own experience (and eyesight getting older) I have learned that a very small miss-setting of the needle height can cause that one-in-15 to 20 skip, especially during wide ZZ stitching. So I'd get my glasses and even a magnifying glass, and clean the needle bar and bottom of the bushing nicely and very carefully reset the height, and that often cured the rare stitch skip problem. I have worked on machines where the ZZ did this b/c of failure to lubricate the Vibrating Bracket and associated parts in the nose. That needle does swing quite a bit and cleaning and oiling a machine sure eliminates a lot of little nagging problems. Remember the video list I mentioned? One of the videos is all about lubricating the machine: ruclips.net/video/rqXbbbEX78k/видео.html That is also explained in the Instruction Manual that is available for free from Singer Support here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 I'm sorry your having problems with that beautiful machine ( I blame it on the Italians who designed it, haha) if you think it will help you can email Alan at andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for the SERVICE MANUAL for the 237 and I'll have him reply with a PDF copy of it. We delete all incoming emails at the end of each day and don't give/sell your email info to anyone. Good luck.
Hey Andy, I looked through all of your playlists for a 223 (fashion mate ?) but didn’t see anything. This one looks a little close to it. I picked it up today and watched a few RUclips videos and they said that this is the only Japanese singer made machine which I found interesting. Supposedly, it’s also a 42 pound machine. It’s still in the backseat of my car in the cabinet. I’m waiting for help to bring it inside to start cleaning it up. I was just wondering what your thoughts were on it.
Never seen it. Hard to find documents on it. I've had a handful of viewers who tell me they're very happy with it and say it's a beast of a machine but I really don't know anything else. Those viewers were all in the European Union someplace. None were in the US. I don't even know if you could get parts etc
@@andytubesewing1953 this vintage Singer group I am in has both the parts list document and the manual for it. Sewing parts online has a list of parts as well. Hopefully I won’t need any but rather this machine will just need a good cleaning. Some of the videos I watched do show some good work coming from it. I look forward to cleaning it up and seeing what she can do. Thanks Andy.
@@rhondamercado7527 I'm glad you'll have what you need to work on it. Hopefully no mechanical part needs replacing. I'm sure you'll have a good time. That's another unique machine to add to your collection
Andy, I am here reviewing all these videos on Stella 237 Fashion Mate cuz I need to work on my tension unit. I find these videos so helpful. I l look at the oiling and greasing one at least 2 x a year. I live in fear you will remove this playlist from you tube. I finally found the bobbin stop part I needed. I am still trying to locate a straight stitch plate for my 237 Fashion Mate. Surely another Singer Machine uses this same straight stitch foot besides the 239. Andy do you know of any others I could try. Keep making these great videos.
Hey, JoJo. I don't think the plate from the 239 will work on the 237 b/c the feed dogs on the machines are a different shape. I remember trying it when I had both machines before. I know they made a straight stitch plate for the 237; I mean they show it in the instruction manual, but I can not even find a part number for it in the parts diagram. Here is what one desperate fellow did to get a straight stitch plate for his 237 ruclips.net/video/jnsDoCLT8xw/видео.html maybe he could help you?
Sorry, I've never worked on the model. Most singer tensions are the same with a couple different parts. It looks like the number dial on yours would pull off. I'd suggest you buy and download a copy of the original Service Manual for $8.99 from this seller; manualsoncd.com/product/singer-252-257-258-259-sewing-machine-service-manual/ It will show all about the needle thread tension unit as well as almost every other part on the machine, remove, replace, adjust. %4-pages used by the original Singer repair people.
HI, I finally found a 237 and took it to our sewing machine shop. He just phoned and said it wasn't worth fixing, it was going to cost more than $200 to fix it, but he did have a free arm Elna he would sell me for $180.00. He says its been used hard for repair. The young lady I bought it from said it was here mothers and bought new in 1968. I have a few vintage machines I have fixed ok., what I need to know is are these as easy to fix as the older ones? re: timing etc. ( if thats the problem) TIA
If you are asking about the Model 237 being easy to fix I would say it is no harder than any other vintage Singer machine. There is not much to go wrong on it and I can't even see how the timing could go out because of the way the hook and drive shaft work. The only weak spots on it are the plastic indicator dial on the needle thread tension unit (which can be replaced) and the poorly designed thread guide attached to the tip of the needle bar. I made a 20+ video series about the model 237 that includes cleaning, adjusting and so forth. You could look at some of the videos to get an idea of maintenance. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h I do not have any experience with Elna machines so I can't advise you about it.
the fashion mate with the knob that looks like plastic on top mean that there is also plastic gears ? its a fashion mate 237 with the knob on top i guess the pressure foot pressure
Hi, Vickie. That is the 237M and there are NO PLASTIC gears on it, or the 237. Here are all the 237 videos in a playlist. They show the internal workings of the machine and how to clean, repair and adjust them. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h You can still get a FREE instruction manual from Singer at this link:www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 Thanks for watching my channel.
Can't really diagnose some problems through the comment section, but in general cleaning and properly lubricating a vintage machine can clean up many problems. So, the machine is new to you? Here is a playlist of all my model 237 videos; ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h The playlist includes cleaning and adjusting videos, like one for lubrication: ruclips.net/video/rqXbbbEX78k/видео.html and this one about how the zigzag system and hook work: ruclips.net/video/ybRA_1qYw58/видео.html Those may give you some ideas. In general, most of the parts work and move in sync, so if a part is not moving, other than the presser bar, then it may be loose or some of the parts missing. At the least try lubricating correctly and see what happens.
I found one of these guys in a wood housing on the side of the road to give away! Mine has the feed foot drop. The only issue seems to be the spool pin is missing. Does a person need to get the real pin or will any pin that fits in the slot and stablizes the thread work? I’ve also noticed the kits on eBay sell with a felt pad - do you know what that does? Thank for the info!
Hello from Australia, I am wondering if you have any information on the Singer 287 Starlet? It looks very much like this 237, but instead of the brown colour it is blue, with external motor( not working). We can't find any information about it on the internet, like when and where it was build, are the gears metal or plastic. Thank you, regards Christel
Hey, Mate! Sorry to say I have no information or documents for a Singer Model 287. I found pictures on Google Images is all. The model 237 was made by Singer in Italy and has no gears on it. It is entirely possible that your 287 has the same mechanics as this 237 and Singer just named it different for sale in the Eu and outside North America (it was not sold here or I'd have documents). I have 20 more videos of the 237 and you are welcome to take a look at them. They cover most of the parts on the machine including the wiring and motor, the presser and needle bars, the tension unit, the ZigZag system ( which is fabulous), the hook, and the foot pedal. These videos may be all you need to work on your machine. You can find the Playlist of the videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h If that is not enough I do have documents for the 237 model and I will gladly share them with you. Email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask specifically for Singer Model 237 documents and I'll have them send you PDF copies. That's all I can offer today, Christel. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Wow, that was fast, I didn't even expect a reply, thank you so very much. My daughter found another machine, again no motor or pedal, but for the missing parts like bobbin case, presser foot , needle clamp. I tried to use a bobbin case from my Singer 15, but the machine won't rotate fully, so we will see if it works with the original. When I tried putting the S 15 bobbin case in it moved to the right, just like you demonstrated towards the end of the video. This model also has a feed dog down function. We will watch your videos of the 237 and see if we can get it working, we are very much new to vintage machines, so it will be a good experience and practice, even if it won't work out for us. Thank you again for your reply. Regards Christel
Best of luck to you. I have many fans in Australia and hope you become one. You may enjoy the machines and find them rewarding to restore. If you change your mind about the records just email for them. They do show parts numbers which can help find the correct replacement parts. There is a model 237M that has drop feed and it sounds like your model is the culmination of the 237 & 237M with all the best features.
I have this machine. It seems the hook timing is out and I need to release the shaft to adjust the hook a few mm, but i can't figure out how to release the shaft. I though it was the two (bushings) that stop the horizontal movement but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Thanks
Hello, Ben. It took me a little figuring out to understand the timing of this Model. You are correct that you need to release the shaft, breaking the connection to the needle bar system, so you could independently turn the hook to set timing. Every other Singer machine I have worked on uses that method. This model is different! Because of the way the mechanics work on this model you can not break or separate the hook or hook shaft from the rest of the machine. The timing is set automatically when you set the needle bar at the correct height. I have a video for setting the height of the NB and you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/bRjfg2VaqP4/видео.html That video is in a 22 video playlist for the Model 237. You may be interested in the other videos too. Here is the link to the whole playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h If setting the needle bar at the correct height does not fix your timing issue then you are on your own as I have no idea the safe/best way to release the connection w/o doing damage. Best of luck, thanks for watching my channel, and Happy New Year 2020.
Hello Andy excellent explanation I interesting in buy one and use it with it singer professional buttonhole ,it may worker perfectly please let me know thank Antonio
I'm under the impression that the Professional Buttonholer is made for Touch & Sew Slant-Needle machines, and can also be used on other slant needle models, like the 401A, 403A, 500A, 503A & 600s. This model 237 is a Low Shank or Straight Needle machine. It would more likely use a green treasure chest or green Jeston box buttonholer as they have the straight attachment parts. I speak a little about the different buttonholers at the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/ggVt4UAzoNc/видео.html Here is one place you can download a few of the manuals for free: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-sewing-machine-manuals.html Thank you for watching my channel
Hello Andy thank for answers my professional buttonhole part number 86721 is low shank for vertical needle I will continue looking for the 237 my problem is the shipping to costly thanks you again !!!!!!
@@hitoortega1616 I get it now. I was confused by your calling it the "professional" Buttonholer, like this one: www.etsy.com/listing/749861698/vintage-singer-professional-buttonholer Part number 86721 is the vertical needle version of the professional model and Singer labeled it as "Auto-Pilot". www.ebay.com/itm/194448630365?epid=662352605&hash=item2d460aa25d:g:mzcAAOSwWFxhbc2A Good luck then.
Hello just found your chanel I have a 252 fashion mate can you tell me how and where to oil it it seems to have slowed down some and I smelt a touch of motor maybe I had it for a while bought it at garage sale 5 bucks made a couple of quilts on it, runs good , but now seems to smell a bit I tried other material thought maybe mine was to thick but still slow
You can download a free copy of the original 52-page instruction manual here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20252%20Fashion%20Mate%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf It is full of information for using and maintaining your machine.
"Fashion Mate" is a "Family" or "Model Line" of SInger machines. "Stylist" would be another example as would "Touch & Sew".The models 237/239 were made between 1967 & 1972 are believed by many to be the last of the "all metal" Singer domestic machines. From my experience, it was in the early 1970s that Singer started using more plastic parts including the gears. Many people feel that was the beginning of the end for SInger durability. All metal Machines, to some people, means there would not only not be plastic gears but also no belts on the machine, as is motor or timing belts. Metal machines would include models that have steel gearing or steel shaft-driven models but could have a motor and/or timing belts. Singer model 301A, 401A, 403A, 404, 500A & 503A are examples from the late 1950s that have all-metal gears and a Textolite handwheel gear and do NOT have any belts on the machine. Earlier models like the 15-91 and 201-2 have "Potted" motors that also have the Textolite handwheel gear and do not have a belt anywhere on the machine. (All Metal) in general, models made prior to the early 1970s would be considered metal machines.
Someone please post a video on how to thread . No matter what I do, my needle isn't picking up the lower thread. I followed the manual and videos and they set it up the same way I did but it's not working!
"and the videos" ... If you have threaded it correctly and can not bring up the bobbin thread that usually means the needle bar is not at the correct height or the needle to hook timing is not correct. (That is assuming you are using the correct 15x1 needle and have the needle installed all the way up into the needle clamp.) It is easy to check the needle height by following this video: ruclips.net/video/3IcqC_4q4Dc/видео.html you don't need any tools to just check the needle bar height. If it looks good you can check the timing as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/u5CwVH7RyaI/видео.html again, no tools needed to just check it, but before checking make sure the needle bar height is correct.
About the foot pedal: I'm in Australia and I have found that a lot of vintage Singers that were imported were fitted on arrival here with Australian made motors and foot pedals made by a company in Sydney called Wernard now long gone unfortunately. Perhaps this explains your US pedal on an Italian-made machine.
Model 237 uses needle class 15x1, the most common in the USA. It is made to use SIZES 11, 14, 16, 18, 19, & 21. (Most domestic only go up to size 18) You can download a FREE 66-page Instruction Manual direct from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 If you want to know more about the workings of model 237 I have more videos in the Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Thanks for watching my channel.
Can you tell me why my 237 says made in csnada ? and im not talking the motor , the actual machine has got made in canada right on it , painted on not a sticker ..
There are two versions of model 237. Model 237 and Model 237M. You can see info here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-200-299.html I believe the 237M models were made in Italy. I'm thinking you have the 237 Model. If you have a "J" in the serial number on your machine it was made at the St. Johns Factory in Canada. www.urbexplayground.com/urbex/singers-abandoned-plant singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/singer-sewing-at-the-st-johns-factory-quebec-canada www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/stjohns
@@4486xxdawson How odd. M847903 doesn't show up on any serial number list I have. Earlier M serial numbers were for machines made in the year 1900 at the Elizabethport, NJ USA Factory. The Candian Factory was finished around 1904. From 1906 thru 1924 the serial numbers on the ST John Factory built machines were issued from the Elizabethport Factor, mostly "G" prefixes. After 1924 the St. John’s factory issued its own serial numbers which took the form of JA, JB, JC etc. followed by 6 digits starting at 000001 up to 999999. Also after this date, model numbers were identified with a ‘J’ suffix after the Class number. I can't find anything showing they used an "M" prefix. "M" was used as a location code for the Monza, Italy factory. Machines produced at the Monza factories were identified by a suffix M added to their model numbers. Serial numbers took the form of MA, MB, MC etc. followed by 6 digits starting at 000001 up to 999999. Some 237 machines were made in Campinas, Brazil. Early machines produced at the Campinas factory were identified by serial numbers that took the form of RA, RB, RC etc. followed by 6 digits starting at 000001 up to 999999. "C" was used as the location code for the Campinas, Brazil factory. I read that later in the St John's timeline some models were sent to that factory from Kilbowie, Scotland to be assembled at St John's and they often had the Kilbowie serial numbers, but not "M". I can't explain why your machine is labeled the way it is, sorry. You've got a rare one. If you ever find out more info please let us know.
For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to put the needle clamp back on. I bought my machine on ebay, and I think they put on the wrong one. The needle just falls out no matter how tight I make the screw. I think there must be a part, or something, missing. Wish you'd make a video on that. Sometimes we have trouble with the simplest things on our machines!
"For the life of me... " 😀 Anne, please bookmark my Playlist of 21 videos for Model 237 at this link: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h You'll see I DID make a video about your missing part on the needle bar (wish granted!) That part is called a GIB and here is the video: ruclips.net/video/kVB-_1dmOFo/видео.html
Este es un canal en inglés y no hablo español, así que uso Google Translate. Traduje tu comentario al inglés pero no tiene sentido. ¿Algo sobre una faja? Tal vez podría intentar explicar de nuevo qué es lo que quiere saber.
Sorry, there is nothing in my documents about the total number made, only that the 237 was made from 1968-1972 and the 237M was made from 1967 - 1971. Thanks for watching my channel.
Aprenda a usar la función de subtítulos ocultos de los videos. Puedes abrir el CC y luego cambiar el idioma a español muy fácilmente. Los siguientes videos muestran cómo hacerlo. Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en RUclips usando la computadora ruclips.net/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/видео.html Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en RUclips usando un teléfono celular Android ruclips.net/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/видео.html También tengo 20 videos más sobre el modelo 237 ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Gracias por ver mi canal
Hey Andy: The 237 was one of the very first machines I began to sew with. As I got more knowledge about "All things Singer" I came to realize that there is a lot of 'slop' and 'interference' possibilities that are literally built in to the design and inherent in the 237 and others with a similar design. i.e. broken needles, due to Shuttle Hook/ Needle Plate strikes and adjustment/alignment issues. In conclusion (without belaboring the subject). They make great boat anchors. -Trent-
I have seen pictures of model 237 machine with the clamshell-style pedal: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi And also with the Silver Flag style pedal: ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html So maybe you have one like that. Here is my entire playlist of videos about the Model 237: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Thank you for watching my channel.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
My neighbor just gave me one of these and she's a fixer upper for sure. I was so excited to see that you made a series on this machine! I have the one with the drop feed. Thank you again, Andy!
@@rendmendecclesiastes3728 wow that's a nice gift and it's a beautiful machine with a unique hook and needle bar system I really enjoyed learning about it I think you will too best of luck with it
Hi andy, Thanks for this video. I just fixed my mom's Sewing Machine. It was not working for more than 5 years. I can remember someone came and serviced it. Unfortunately, that guy tight that bottom moving part too much. I only realized it at 23:19 . Thank you so much for pointing it.
I'm glad you found the video. It's nice of you to take the time to comment. I have 20 more videos for this model in my "Stella" Playlist if you want to learn more about the machine. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
It's a fascinating model and so strong. Take care.
I just bought a 237, for only $10.. Mine looks exactly like Stella, other than the foot pedal. Thank you so much for your videos. You are the best! I need to clean mine and at least change the belt before I can even try sewing with it. I love that I can easily follow what you're showing and saying. That helps me feel confident that I can do this myself.
Thank you, Patty. You sure can do it yourself and it will be very rewarding. You'll have a great machine for a small investment. I glad you found my channel. If you have questions along the way just ask. Take Care.
Andy, thanks a lot! My machine works good, I’m so very happy! 🤗
The most enjoyable comment today 😊Thank you very much 🙏
Another great video Andy. I just picked up a 237 at a Thrift Store for $20 and plan to follow along with you step-by-step. Should be a great opportunity to learn more from you. Thank you.
Isn't it satisfying to find a good machine for that price? Even if you need a few parts replaced like motor belt, light bulb or tension spring it is a fantastic value. We will be learning about the moving hook on this machine together then. Thanks for watching.
Eager to get started Andy! Only real problem I see so far is that one of the top cover screws has been cross-threaded -- and the nose cone screw--same issue. I have the darker beige model but without the feed dog drop control feature. I'm also not sure if the controller is OEM....I have my doubts, but not certain.
@@andytubesewing1953
Dang, sorry to hear about those screws. I assume they have proprietary thread spacing, but maybe not. A fellow wrote me that is a situation like this he uses a tap-and-die set to make new holes in a standard size and replaces the screws. I have never done that before. See you along the way, Robert.
Thank you! You have enticed me to bur a Singer 237 and restore/clean her up and enjoy sewing with my own Stella. :-)
I hope you enjoy it then, Melanie. A Strong and Versatile machine as you can see: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Good to know there isn’t any plastic gears in this model should I run across a “deal”. Can’t wait for you to begin your process of cleaning and restoring this one.
Thank you, Rita. It seems a popular model based on all the folks asking for videos to be done about it. I'm glad you will be watching.
Thanks Andy! So looking forward to this series. As I mentioned in the preview video, I have just purchased a 237M last week. Mine is the the one with the lighter scheme cover and feed dog KNOB. And came with the Brown plastic foot pedal. Pic: photos.app.goo.gl/D2MjvUiqAcGrxhXh8
And YES - That is one heavy machine! I was surprised when I lifted it the first time. Owning a 404 and 301a, big difference!
+Also, the presser foot tension knob is different.
Hi Andy, looking forward to seeing your new cleaning procedure for this machine.
Thanks, Dorothy. It is still a very thorough cleaning, but without removing parts. Maybe you will like it. See you Friday, 11-30-2018
I have the beige one with the feed dog knob. I purchased it in 1970 to make baby clothes for my son. I still have it and it still works.
50 years ago. Congratulations! I very strong and unique model.
Yes, a moment of clarity! Thanks for showing us how the hook shaft shifts back and forth, something that escaped me on my own machine. It makes perfect sense that the hook below would move at the same time that the needle bar is swinging back and forth up above in zigzag mode. The hook has to move with the needle to keep forming the stitch, all of which adds another aspect to needle bar timing. It's no longer simply a matter of the vertical location of the needle in relation to the hook, but also a matter of horizontal location. Otherwise the hook would either miss the thread loop hanging off the needle, or the needle would hit the hook. The mechanism connected to the stitch width lever has a lot of work to do. Does all this form a better quality stitch than is done with a zigzag accessory foot, which solves the problem by shifting the fabric back and forth rather than the needle? Sometime down the line you might take a look at the Singer 319, which seems like an engineering marvel at another level of complexity.
It certainly is an interesting hook system. I have not seen it before and emailed friends to see if they have or can tell me other models that use it. I had the opportunity to buy a model 319 a few years back. It was sure a different type of machine than I had seen before. I gave it a good look-over. The only horizontal camshaft I've seen on a Singer. A "cleated" drive belt made from 11 braided fiber "strings" wrap with 3 metal bands every inch or so. "Typewriter" style keys on top for pattern selection with a couple dozen additional flat pattern cams or discs that could be attached to a mechanism on the front. An odd size needle that is shorter than the 15x1 style and cost 3 times as much. It surely had an industrial bobbin/hook combo on it; not class 15 or 66. It was a very powerful machine with great stitching quality and with the noise that provided all that power and movement. With proper care, it seemed like it could sew forever. It just did not appeal to me and I passed on it, but it sold an hour later to a fellow from Canada who had been searching for one a whole year and was ecstatic to find it and thought I was a fool to pass it up.
Hi Andy, Thank you for all your helpful information regarding the 237's. I recently picked one up that was very stiff and the feed dog was frozen. Following your lubrication guidelines, I slowly worked my way through the machine using the handwheel as my turning method, to clean and lubricate and gradually freed everything up to turn very freely. My dilemna is upon tilting the machine (which i did before I started my lube and cleaning) there were some parts laying in the tray. I realize now they are associated with the bakelite plastic bobbin gate .The gate's hinge side ( i think thats what you'd call it) was broken. There was a tiny roll pin, a small coil spring and a flat notched key like object. I never had the advantage of seeing these pieces in situ, and am asking if you might be able to point me to guidance for re-assembling this once the new part arrives. I don't remember seeing you completely take the bobbin gate off, but could have missed that. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. My guess is, someone broke this a long time ago and the machine sat as a "when I get to it" repair. I'm so happy with how freely everything moves and quietly , i look forward to completing it and seeing how it sews. Thanks, Jim
Hey, Jim. No, I never took the gate off. There is nothing about that in the service manual that I saw and I did not want to have a problem. There are a number of associated parts to it and it must be fairly common for the plastic gate to break from age b/c you can buy a new one. They sell the gate only and here is the best price from a known seller: www.sewingpartsonline.com/race-cover-singer-352075.aspx There are other sellers also, and sometimes the part will be for sale on eBay when a seller parts out a machine.
There are a couple of better views of the gate in other videos. Start at @1:06:42 of this video; ruclips.net/video/rqXbbbEX78k/видео.html and @1:15:10 of this video; ruclips.net/video/ybRA_1qYw58/видео.html Better yet, if you'd like the parts & service manuals for the machine you can email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for model 237/239 records. Alan will reply with PDF copies and then delete your email. No charge. The same parts for this are used on both the 237 & 239 models if you go looking for used parts.
Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
When I was doing the goodwill auctions I noticed the desire for the 237's go from no interest to fairly popular.
At first they would go through there without a single bid then it got to the point every one would sell and they started commanding a fair price.
I never really noticed that some had feed dog drops and some didn't.
It looks to me that both Singer and Kenmore would from time to time use the Mercury controllers as well as some of the Japanese models.
I have one of the Japanese "precision deluxe" machines marketed through Dayton and badged "Electrohygene" that has a Mercury controller that I know is original to that machine, it's a 1965.
My newest treasure is a Kenmore 158-17501 from 1968 which I assume is the competing model to the Singer 237 of that era, and it weighs in at 43 pounds I'm told, I haven't actually thrown it on the scale, but bet that's pretty close, she's a real backbreaker, but an AWESOME machine.
I call her the Beast.
Looking forward to your series.
Thank you for the information about the foot controller. I'm still searching for documents about it, but no joy so far. I thought Stella was a heavy machine at 28lbs buy your "Beast" at over 40lbs tops that easily. Thanks for watching.
I'll be interested to see what you come up with.
The more I see and learn about the Kenmore's I have to come to the conclusion they are Superior machines to the Singers, probably not what you want to hear.
There were several different companies in Japan that produced the Kenmore machines for sears
148 series =Soryu in Japan
158 series =Maruzen in Japan (later Jaguar)
385 series =Janome
And of course White of Cleveland Ohio in the beginning.
The 158's are made by Maruzen and based off of the Italian machines like the Necchi
which I probably spelled wrong.
I have grown very fond of them, they are designed, balanced, and built, to very high standards.
The 1750 I spoke of above will be my keeper of a zig zag machine, I absolutely love it, it's quite, fast, and smooth, and probably one of the most powerful of the domestic machines, with a 1.2 amp motor it went through 6 layers of denim without a thought.
The only Singer I have run so far that was that smooth was the 201-2
I like the Cams setup the 1750 uses too, very simple to use and very little adjustment to worry with, set your length and width and you are off and running with design after design, almost like an embroidery machine.
I think a person could do about anything they wanted with that one machine.
I don't mind hearing about the Kenmores. The one machine I restored was built very well and ran wonderfully. ruclips.net/video/xF2BFA36CPk/видео.html
I just find the Singer machines and parts more available and better liked by the buyers in my area. Maybe you can do a channel like mine, but will all Kenmore machines. Then we could have a head-to-head sew off!!! Take Care, Mark.
I am inspired to fix my 237M-A that I was given in 1969. It has stayed with me and only recently given me a problem. The needle won’t pick up the bobbin thread. I replaced the broken race gate and thought that would do it. No. Mine has a Bakelite foot pedal , wish it was like the metal one on this video. I will watch some more tomorrow and will leave all the pieces laying out on the table. There has to be an adjustment to make the needle pick up the bobbin thread.?
It's a very nice model; congratulations. Most vintage Singer models have a method for setting the timing of the needlepoint to the hook point. Model 237 has a different system of hook (traveling) and the timing is factory set by the way the shafts are assembled at the factory. There are a couple of mechanical reasons that can cause the loss of picking up the bobbin thread, which is really the hook point is not carrying the needle thread around the bobbin thread) The one we mostly find is that the height of the needle bar changed, often due to a needle strike or sewing very heavy material for a long time. If the height of the needle changes it is not in the correct place for the hook to grab the needle thread. Simply checking and resetting the height of the needle bar back to the factor height fixes that problem. I did make a video about the needle bar height (and presser bar height) including how to check/set the height. That is the first place I would look when troubleshooting this problem. You can find the video here: ruclips.net/video/bRjfg2VaqP4/видео.html
If that doesn't help you solve the problem, there is another adjustment, but I don't have a video of it and you would need the Service Manual to follow. Good luck.
I also have a broken race gate. Can you tell me how you replaced it? I have the replacement part and the service manual, but I can't figure out how the hinge part goes on.
@@andytubesewing1953 , Thank you for that answer, Andy. My daughter just gave me her 237M to fix because the timing is messed up. I always have hope when I can find an Andy Tube explanation!
@@jeanleder9919 Hi Jean. Yes, it's usually something that changed the height of the needle bar, and resetting that corrects the timing. I appreciate you watching my channel. 😊
I was given a 237M with the feed dog knob. I want to clean it up and get it working so I can sew some clothes for my kids. Hopefully this series will help me!
Yes, hopefully it will. Good Luck.
I got a couple of these 237s from a friend that use to repairs sewing machines. I've been fixing them up for treadle zigzag, one of them has a SLIGHT wobble in the balance wheel, like the main shaft is a little bent. The other is straight. Is this normal, or something to be concerned about, or can it be fixed? Or should I not worry about it, and use it like it is?
I guess the main thing is if it sews properly. I've had machines with bent handwheels that worked OK and I usually replaced the handwheel. I've only had one machine where the arm shaft was bent along with the wheel. An obvious drop situation.
Because I fixed the machines to sell to people, I sold that machine to a guy who takes them apart and sells the pieces on eBay. I do not know the long-term results of using a machine with a bent shaft; how that wears on all the connecting parts, etc.
I have tried a few (3) other balance wheels, and bushings, with the same results. That's why I think it's the shaft. I have rigged it with a spoked wheel and have a hand crank on it now. It still sews at a high speed, but there is a slight wobble. There is a benefit auction (and fish fry) for an Amish neighbor lady Friday, and I was going to donate it to raise some money. The Amish ladies love these older zigzag machines that can be treadled. I can't tell any signs of it ever being dropped but it is older than me. I was hoping that some of these were just a little bit off, and it was nothing unusual.
The 237 I was given yesterday is the darker model with the lighter cover plate and the feed dog knob. It's not made in Italy or Brazil though, it's made here in Canada.
No Kidding? I did not think the Singer St. Johns Factory was still open when the 237s were made. Thanks for sharing that.
@@andytubesewing1953 No problem..I have 2 other Canadian made singers but no clue what year they're from.
I just got one i found on the side of the road , canadian as well , painted right on the machine . Giving this girl a restore just need a bobbin door , its plastic or nylon its broken on the top , looks like the needle went through it so im thinking timing was off or someone was forcing fabric through it instead of letting the machine do the work
I have a refurbished 237 given me a month ago by a friend. Your videos have been EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you! I started a new sewing project yesterday and after sewing one seam perfectly, on the second seam the thread got stuck where the bobbin fits (in the shuttle?) and stopped everything. Can you explain how to dismantle that mechanism to get the thread out? I have a photo I could send you of where the thread is jammed.
I don't have the machine now, but starting about 1:15:00 in this video I show some of that shuttle/hook assembly ruclips.net/video/ybRA_1qYw58/видео.html
If you don't have the instruction manual it is free here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 You can buy the complete Service Manual for the machine for $10 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ It shows all the adjustments for the machine, including the shuttle race parts.
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, you're a dreamboat!!! I watched the section of video you suggested and saw how easy it is to remove the hook and VOILA the threads fell out! How can I repay you???
@@danajohnson3312 Just reading your comment is payment enough for me. Maybe share my channel with a friend? Happy sewing.
Hi Andy
I have this machine, it was originally my mothers. I cannot find needles that fit into this without falling out. Can you tell me what needle you are using and where I may find them?
Hi, Natalie. The needle type is 15x1 and very available. Your needle clamp may be missing a small part called a Gib that holds the needle in place when you tighten the thumbscrew. My machine was missing it and here is a video about replacing it: ruclips.net/video/kVB-_1dmOFo/видео.html here is one seller of the GIB: www.sewingpartsonline.com/gib-needle-clamp-singer-86822-803.aspx
You can also find the GIB with the needle clamp for sale on sites like eBay some times: www.ebay.com/i/174254225511?chn=ps I may be wrong about this as I can't see or touch your machine to test it, but you can easily see if you have the Gib or not. Good Luck and here are all 21 of my videos for the 237/237: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
Hello Andy! Quick question! ….. Had my “Beige Brenda” 237 all cleaned.oiled and spinning like a top…. So i dove right in to my first project and about a half hour in I must of made the big rookie mistake of trying to control the fabric too much and had my first broken needle 😢! ….. Now Brenda is pissed! And she won’t dance!….. my top thread is getting tied up down below around the shuttle and breaking off at the needle….. I don’t see anything bent below …..but not sure! Could I have knocked Brenda’s timing out of whack? You know what they say about a woman scorned 😂….. maybe you can point me in the right direction so I can repair this relationship…….. Thanks in advance Andy!
The timing is factory set and hard to knock out of time, BUT a needle strike/break can move the needle bar up or down, and that changes the time (so to speak) so the first thing I'd look at is the needle height being correct. Here is a playlist of videos for model 237: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Look down the list to find the presser/needle bar setting to learn how to check and/or set the height. There is also a video about the tension assembly which may have been damaged by the thread breaking repeatedly. You can also buy a copy of the original Service Manual for less than $10 at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ it should have instructions for setting the thread clearance at the hook and even the hook repair info. Good luck and hope Brenda gets back in service.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy! Yes i readjusted the height of the needle bar as per your video and Brenda came back on line! Thanks for all those videos in the 237 series! Amazing content!
@@timothyheckler173 have to love an easy fix like that. Now you know what to keep your eye out for. I'm glad you got your machine back in service. Thanks for letting me know and happy sewing!
I had to replace my foot control too. That looks like the replacement I purchased years later.
Oh thanks for that! I really did not think it was original from 1970. Thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
I'm cleaning and fixing up a Singer 237 and I've noticed that the linkage from the upper arm to the lower oscillating hook shaft strikes the table if it's resting on the cast iron legs. I had assumed that it should be able to operate while sitting on the three cast "legs." Do you happen to know off hand if the machine is supposed to be able to operate while resting only on its cast "legs" or is it normal that it needs additional clearance to operate?
It came with a plastic case so I can run it but only when it's in that case which provides enough clearance to complete a full rotation cycle.
Thank you very much and I hope that my question makes sense.
The way this model is made it needs to be in a base or mounted in a cabinet so that the bottom part is not touching anything. It originally came in a kind of wooden case where the top pulled off and the machine stayed in the bottom. Personally, I would mount it in a cabinet if I could rather than trying to sew with it in the base because you have to take the fabric up over the base and under the presser foot and then back down. Good luck and thanks for fixing the machine
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much again!
Thanks for your wonderful videos on the Fashion Mate 237. I found one in front of my building and have been working on getting it functional. However it's missing the spool pin and the replacement part I ordered is too small and falls straight through the machine. Was wondering if you have any insight into what spool pins work with the model. I do have the one with the knob in the front base.
According to the parts diagram for model 237/239 both spool pins are the same part number 173571. There are several sellers like this one: www.sewingpartsonline.com/spool-pin-singer-1247-sewing-machine.aspx
If the correct spool pin seems too small then the hole for it could have been enlarged by a previous owner (you'd be surprised) or damaged. You can use a plastic fill and make a new hole or glue a new pin in place using water-soluble craft glue. Thanks for rescuing the machine and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the info, I'll give 173571 a shot!
@@windloaf Sure, and best of luck.
Hey Andy! Quick question! My 237 seems to miss a stitch every 20 stitches or so when in zigzag. Not sure if she’s missing the zig or the zag! Hahaha! But the rest of the stitches are nice and tight, top and bottom… in your experience, is this still a tension problem or should i be looking elsewhere ? Thanks for your time and hope your feeling well!
Normally skipping is a tension problem, but other things can cause it too. If you are still "helping" the fabric (even a little) it can skip, especially at the moment you move your hand on and off the fabric. Let the feed dog do the work. A test for that is to take a scrap fabric and sew ZZ without even touching the fabric (who cares if it goes crooked) and see if it still skips. If it does then it was not your fault. If it did NOT skip then learn to keep your hand off, haha.
We know you had a needle height issue from the broken needle. From my own experience (and eyesight getting older) I have learned that a very small miss-setting of the needle height can cause that one-in-15 to 20 skip, especially during wide ZZ stitching. So I'd get my glasses and even a magnifying glass, and clean the needle bar and bottom of the bushing nicely and very carefully reset the height, and that often cured the rare stitch skip problem.
I have worked on machines where the ZZ did this b/c of failure to lubricate the Vibrating Bracket and associated parts in the nose. That needle does swing quite a bit and cleaning and oiling a machine sure eliminates a lot of little nagging problems. Remember the video list I mentioned? One of the videos is all about lubricating the machine: ruclips.net/video/rqXbbbEX78k/видео.html That is also explained in the Instruction Manual that is available for free from Singer Support here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237
I'm sorry your having problems with that beautiful machine ( I blame it on the Italians who designed it, haha) if you think it will help you can email Alan at andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for the SERVICE MANUAL for the 237 and I'll have him reply with a PDF copy of it. We delete all incoming emails at the end of each day and don't give/sell your email info to anyone. Good luck.
Hey Andy, I looked through all of your playlists for a 223 (fashion mate ?) but didn’t see anything. This one looks a little close to it. I picked it up today and watched a few RUclips videos and they said that this is the only Japanese singer made machine which I found interesting. Supposedly, it’s also a 42 pound machine. It’s still in the backseat of my car in the cabinet. I’m waiting for help to bring it inside to start cleaning it up. I was just wondering what your thoughts were on it.
Never seen it. Hard to find documents on it. I've had a handful of viewers who tell me they're very happy with it and say it's a beast of a machine but I really don't know anything else. Those viewers were all in the European Union someplace. None were in the US. I don't even know if you could get parts etc
@@andytubesewing1953 this vintage Singer group I am in has both the parts list document and the manual for it. Sewing parts online has a list of parts as well. Hopefully I won’t need any but rather this machine will just need a good cleaning. Some of the videos I watched do show some good work coming from it. I look forward to cleaning it up and seeing what she can do. Thanks Andy.
@@rhondamercado7527 I'm glad you'll have what you need to work on it. Hopefully no mechanical part needs replacing. I'm sure you'll have a good time. That's another unique machine to add to your collection
Andy, I am here reviewing all these videos on Stella 237 Fashion Mate cuz I need to work on my tension unit. I find these videos so helpful. I l look at the oiling and greasing one at least 2 x a year. I live in fear you will remove this playlist from you tube. I finally found the bobbin stop part I needed. I am still trying to locate a straight stitch plate for my 237 Fashion Mate. Surely another Singer Machine uses this same straight stitch foot besides the 239. Andy do you know of any others I could try. Keep making these great videos.
Hey, JoJo. I don't think the plate from the 239 will work on the 237 b/c the feed dogs on the machines are a different shape. I remember trying it when I had both machines before. I know they made a straight stitch plate for the 237; I mean they show it in the instruction manual, but I can not even find a part number for it in the parts diagram. Here is what one desperate fellow did to get a straight stitch plate for his 237 ruclips.net/video/jnsDoCLT8xw/видео.html maybe he could help you?
Andy can you show us how to repair the tension on a fashion mate 252
Sorry, I've never worked on the model. Most singer tensions are the same with a couple different parts. It looks like the number dial on yours would pull off. I'd suggest you buy and download a copy of the original Service Manual for $8.99 from this seller; manualsoncd.com/product/singer-252-257-258-259-sewing-machine-service-manual/ It will show all about the needle thread tension unit as well as almost every other part on the machine, remove, replace, adjust. %4-pages used by the original Singer repair people.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you Andy for the reply. I love your tutorials
@@carynmulder1809 Best of luck then, and thanks for watching my channel.
HI, I finally found a 237 and took it to our sewing machine shop. He just phoned and said it wasn't worth fixing, it was going to cost more than $200 to fix it, but he did have a free arm Elna he would sell me for $180.00. He says its been used hard for repair. The young lady I bought it from said it was here mothers and bought new in 1968. I have a few vintage machines I have fixed ok., what I need to know is are these as easy to fix as the older ones? re: timing etc. ( if thats the problem) TIA
oh, and he did say he would recycle it for me!
If you are asking about the Model 237 being easy to fix I would say it is no harder than any other vintage Singer machine. There is not much to go wrong on it and I can't even see how the timing could go out because of the way the hook and drive shaft work. The only weak spots on it are the plastic indicator dial on the needle thread tension unit (which can be replaced) and the poorly designed thread guide attached to the tip of the needle bar. I made a 20+ video series about the model 237 that includes cleaning, adjusting and so forth. You could look at some of the videos to get an idea of maintenance. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
I do not have any experience with Elna machines so I can't advise you about it.
@@lolachantal1 I bet he did!
the fashion mate with the knob that looks like plastic on top mean that there is also plastic gears ? its a fashion mate 237 with the knob on top i guess the pressure foot pressure
Hi, Vickie. That is the 237M and there are NO PLASTIC gears on it, or the 237.
Here are all the 237 videos in a playlist. They show the internal workings of the machine and how to clean, repair and adjust them. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
You can still get a FREE instruction manual from Singer at this link:www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 Thanks for watching my channel.
The hook shaft on my machine does not move left and right. Any ideas? And the needle position lever is not moving either.
Can't really diagnose some problems through the comment section, but in general cleaning and properly lubricating a vintage machine can clean up many problems. So, the machine is new to you? Here is a playlist of all my model 237 videos;
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h The playlist includes cleaning and adjusting videos, like one for lubrication: ruclips.net/video/rqXbbbEX78k/видео.html and this one about how the zigzag system and hook work: ruclips.net/video/ybRA_1qYw58/видео.html Those may give you some ideas. In general, most of the parts work and move in sync, so if a part is not moving, other than the presser bar, then it may be loose or some of the parts missing. At the least try lubricating correctly and see what happens.
I found one of these guys in a wood housing on the side of the road to give away! Mine has the feed foot drop. The only issue seems to be the spool pin is missing. Does a person need to get the real pin or will any pin that fits in the slot and stablizes the thread work? I’ve also noticed the kits on eBay sell with a felt pad - do you know what that does? Thank for the info!
Any pin you like that fits. The felt pad is to help the spool rotate easily and not bounce and also to protect the finish of the machine.
Hello from Australia, I am wondering if you have any information on the Singer 287 Starlet? It looks very much like this 237, but instead of the brown colour it is blue, with external motor( not working). We can't find any information about it on the internet, like when and where it was build, are the gears metal or plastic. Thank you, regards Christel
Hey, Mate! Sorry to say I have no information or documents for a Singer Model 287. I found pictures on Google Images is all. The model 237 was made by Singer in Italy and has no gears on it. It is entirely possible that your 287 has the same mechanics as this 237 and Singer just named it different for sale in the Eu and outside North America (it was not sold here or I'd have documents).
I have 20 more videos of the 237 and you are welcome to take a look at them. They cover most of the parts on the machine including the wiring and motor, the presser and needle bars, the tension unit, the ZigZag system ( which is fabulous), the hook, and the foot pedal. These videos may be all you need to work on your machine. You can find the Playlist of the videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h If that is not enough I do have documents for the 237 model and I will gladly share them with you. Email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask specifically for Singer Model 237 documents and I'll have them send you PDF copies. That's all I can offer today, Christel. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Wow, that was fast, I didn't even expect a reply, thank you so very much. My daughter found another machine, again no motor or pedal, but for the missing parts like bobbin case, presser foot , needle clamp. I tried to use a bobbin case from my Singer 15, but the machine won't rotate fully, so we will see if it works with the original. When I tried putting the S 15 bobbin case in it moved to the right, just like you demonstrated towards the end of the video. This model also has a feed dog down function. We will watch your videos of the 237 and see if we can get it working, we are very much new to vintage machines, so it will be a good experience and practice, even if it won't work out for us. Thank you again for your reply. Regards Christel
Best of luck to you. I have many fans in Australia and hope you become one. You may enjoy the machines and find them rewarding to restore. If you change your mind about the records just email for them. They do show parts numbers which can help find the correct replacement parts. There is a model 237M that has drop feed and it sounds like your model is the culmination of the 237 & 237M with all the best features.
I have this machine. It seems the hook timing is out and I need to release the shaft to adjust the hook a few mm, but i can't figure out how to release the shaft. I though it was the two (bushings) that stop the horizontal movement but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Thanks
Hello, Ben. It took me a little figuring out to understand the timing of this Model. You are correct that you need to release the shaft, breaking the connection to the needle bar system, so you could independently turn the hook to set timing. Every other Singer machine I have worked on uses that method. This model is different! Because of the way the mechanics work on this model you can not break or separate the hook or hook shaft from the rest of the machine. The timing is set automatically when you set the needle bar at the correct height. I have a video for setting the height of the NB and you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/bRjfg2VaqP4/видео.html
That video is in a 22 video playlist for the Model 237. You may be interested in the other videos too. Here is the link to the whole playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
If setting the needle bar at the correct height does not fix your timing issue then you are on your own as I have no idea the safe/best way to release the connection w/o doing damage. Best of luck, thanks for watching my channel, and Happy New Year 2020.
Hello Andy excellent explanation I interesting in buy one and use it with it singer professional buttonhole ,it may worker perfectly please let me know thank Antonio
I'm under the impression that the Professional Buttonholer is made for Touch & Sew Slant-Needle machines, and can also be used on other slant needle models, like the 401A, 403A, 500A, 503A & 600s. This model 237 is a Low Shank or Straight Needle machine. It would more likely use a green treasure chest or green Jeston box buttonholer as they have the straight attachment parts.
I speak a little about the different buttonholers at the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/ggVt4UAzoNc/видео.html
Here is one place you can download a few of the manuals for free: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-sewing-machine-manuals.html
Thank you for watching my channel
Hello Andy thank for answers my professional buttonhole part number 86721 is low shank for vertical needle I will continue looking for the 237 my problem is the shipping to costly thanks you again !!!!!!
@@hitoortega1616 I get it now. I was confused by your calling it the "professional" Buttonholer, like this one: www.etsy.com/listing/749861698/vintage-singer-professional-buttonholer
Part number 86721 is the vertical needle version of the professional model and Singer labeled it as "Auto-Pilot".
www.ebay.com/itm/194448630365?epid=662352605&hash=item2d460aa25d:g:mzcAAOSwWFxhbc2A
Good luck then.
Hello just found your chanel I have a 252 fashion mate can you tell me how and where to oil it it seems to have slowed down some and I smelt a touch of motor maybe I had it for a while bought it at garage sale 5 bucks made a couple of quilts on it, runs good , but now seems to smell a bit I tried other material thought maybe mine was to thick but still slow
You can download a free copy of the original 52-page instruction manual here:
www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20252%20Fashion%20Mate%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
It is full of information for using and maintaining your machine.
Is fashion mate the last of the all-metal construction singers?
"Fashion Mate" is a "Family" or "Model Line" of SInger machines. "Stylist" would be another example as would "Touch & Sew".The models 237/239 were made between 1967 & 1972 are believed by many to be the last of the "all metal" Singer domestic machines. From my experience, it was in the early 1970s that Singer started using more plastic parts including the gears. Many people feel that was the beginning of the end for SInger durability. All metal Machines, to some people, means there would not only not be plastic gears but also no belts on the machine, as is motor or timing belts. Metal machines would include models that have steel gearing or steel shaft-driven models but could have a motor and/or timing belts. Singer model 301A, 401A, 403A, 404, 500A & 503A are examples from the late 1950s that have all-metal gears and a Textolite handwheel gear and do NOT have any belts on the machine. Earlier models like the 15-91 and 201-2 have "Potted" motors that also have the Textolite handwheel gear and do not have a belt anywhere on the machine. (All Metal) in general, models made prior to the early 1970s would be considered metal machines.
Someone please post a video on how to thread . No matter what I do, my needle isn't picking up the lower thread. I followed the manual and videos and they set it up the same way I did but it's not working!
"and the videos" ... If you have threaded it correctly and can not bring up the bobbin thread that usually means the needle bar is not at the correct height or the needle to hook timing is not correct. (That is assuming you are using the correct 15x1 needle and have the needle installed all the way up into the needle clamp.) It is easy to check the needle height by following this video: ruclips.net/video/3IcqC_4q4Dc/видео.html you don't need any tools to just check the needle bar height. If it looks good you can check the timing as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/u5CwVH7RyaI/видео.html again, no tools needed to just check it, but before checking make sure the needle bar height is correct.
Hi Andy, can you recommend a touch up paint for the 237 model?
Sorry, Michael. I can not. I've never used any touch up paint on my machines.
About the foot pedal: I'm in Australia and I have found that a lot of vintage Singers that were imported were fitted on arrival here with Australian made motors and foot pedals made by a company in Sydney called Wernard now long gone unfortunately. Perhaps this explains your US pedal on an Italian-made machine.
All news to me, and thanks for sharing it on my channel. Very kind of you and thanks for watching.
What size needle for the 237?
Model 237 uses needle class 15x1, the most common in the USA. It is made to use SIZES 11, 14, 16, 18, 19, & 21. (Most domestic only go up to size 18) You can download a FREE 66-page Instruction Manual direct from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 If you want to know more about the workings of model 237 I have more videos in the Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you!
@@michaelfogarty8665 Sure thing and happy sewing.
Can you tell me why my 237 says made in csnada ? and im not talking the motor , the actual machine has got made in canada right on it , painted on not a sticker ..
There are two versions of model 237. Model 237 and Model 237M. You can see info here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-200-299.html
I believe the 237M models were made in Italy. I'm thinking you have the 237 Model. If you have a "J" in the serial number on your machine it was made at the St. Johns Factory in Canada. www.urbexplayground.com/urbex/singers-abandoned-plant singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/singer-sewing-at-the-st-johns-factory-quebec-canada www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/stjohns
@@andytubesewing1953 nope noJ in the number there is an M before 847903
@@4486xxdawson How odd. M847903 doesn't show up on any serial number list I have. Earlier M serial numbers were for machines made in the year 1900 at the Elizabethport, NJ USA Factory. The Candian Factory was finished around 1904. From 1906 thru 1924 the serial numbers on the ST John Factory built machines were issued from the Elizabethport Factor, mostly "G" prefixes. After 1924 the St. John’s factory issued its own serial numbers which took the form of JA, JB, JC etc. followed by 6 digits starting at 000001 up to 999999. Also after this date, model numbers were identified with a ‘J’ suffix after the Class number. I can't find anything showing they used an "M" prefix. "M" was used as a location code for the Monza, Italy factory. Machines produced at the Monza factories were identified by a suffix M added to their model numbers. Serial numbers took the form of MA, MB, MC etc. followed by 6 digits starting at 000001 up to 999999. Some 237 machines were made in Campinas, Brazil. Early machines produced at the Campinas factory were identified by serial numbers that took the form of RA, RB, RC etc. followed by 6 digits starting at 000001 up to 999999. "C" was used as the location code for the Campinas, Brazil factory. I read that later in the St John's timeline some models were sent to that factory from Kilbowie, Scotland to be assembled at St John's and they often had the Kilbowie serial numbers, but not "M". I can't explain why your machine is labeled the way it is, sorry. You've got a rare one. If you ever find out more info please let us know.
For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to put the needle clamp back on. I bought my machine on ebay, and I think they put on the wrong one. The needle just falls out no matter how tight I make the screw. I think there must be a part, or something, missing. Wish you'd make a video on that. Sometimes we have trouble with the simplest things on our machines!
"For the life of me... " 😀 Anne, please bookmark my Playlist of 21 videos for Model 237 at this link: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
You'll see I DID make a video about your missing part on the needle bar (wish granted!) That part is called a GIB and here is the video: ruclips.net/video/kVB-_1dmOFo/видео.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks. LOL I found it later.
@@annesummers09 That's great. Good luck.
Hola...la faja tiene una medida ?? Ya q la q tenía se abrió y al ir a buscar se me perdió ...medida y grosor por favor gracias
Este es un canal en inglés y no hablo español, así que uso Google Translate. Traduje tu comentario al inglés pero no tiene sentido. ¿Algo sobre una faja? Tal vez podría intentar explicar de nuevo qué es lo que quiere saber.
Es el cordón q sujeta el motor con el volante de la máquina...q medida tiene
ruclips.net/video/8TaqyrVbih4/видео.html
www.ebay.com/itm/380376765158?hash=item589038d2e6:g:YGYAAOxyK~hRGxxu
@@andytubesewing1953 por lo q veo es 13.5 " muchas gracias
❤😊
🙏
Do you know how many 237 were produced?
Sorry, there is nothing in my documents about the total number made, only that the 237 was made from 1968-1972 and the 237M was made from 1967 - 1971. Thanks for watching my channel.
Pq no lo ponen en español
Aprenda a usar la función de subtítulos ocultos de los videos. Puedes abrir el CC y luego cambiar el idioma a español muy fácilmente. Los siguientes videos muestran cómo hacerlo. Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en RUclips usando la computadora
ruclips.net/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/видео.html
Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en RUclips usando un teléfono celular Android
ruclips.net/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/видео.html
También tengo 20 videos más sobre el modelo 237 ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h
Gracias por ver mi canal
Hey Andy:
The 237 was one of the very first machines I began to sew with.
As I got more knowledge about "All things Singer" I came to realize that there is
a lot of 'slop' and 'interference' possibilities that are literally built in to the design
and inherent in the 237 and others with a similar design. i.e. broken needles,
due to Shuttle Hook/ Needle Plate strikes and adjustment/alignment issues.
In conclusion (without belaboring the subject).
They make great boat anchors.
-Trent-
My peddle is completely different
I have seen pictures of model 237 machine with the clamshell-style pedal: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi And also with the Silver Flag style pedal: ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html
So maybe you have one like that. Here is my entire playlist of videos about the Model 237: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Thank you for watching my channel.