I inherited this model sewing machine from a great aunt and I know nothing about sewing machines! I contemplated looking for a more modern "beginner/user-friendly" machine but after watching this I have a greater appreciation for it and I think it is probably best suited for my needs so thank you for this video! I'll be attempting my first sewing machine project soon - cushion covers!
Great and wise decision Marcella. While there are 'some' features that new machines have that the vintage models lack, machines such as the one you inherited will be sewing long after any plastic new machines have been recycled into something or thown in the dump!
I bought this sewing macine 40 years ago for my sister and is still with me in good working contition a few days ago i oil it and found it in good working condition
I have the exact same 237 machine, my husband bought it to me first Xmas we were married. It is a real work horse and still going strong. I have had it serviced a few times, I really love this sewing machine. It’s so easy to use with great results.
i just picked up this model from an estate auction in a cabinet for maybe $20. i also got a kenmore 22 stitch for $15. im wanting to make myself a leather jacket so i thought it could start learning on these. i will be going through the videos and watching. thank you for the content. both machines seem very well taken care of and was very happy to win them.
I have 4 vintage machines (so far) and have recently sold my first machine which was a modern electronic Viking-Husqvarna. My 237 Fashion Mate is my go-to workhorse machine. I love it for the reasons mentioned here. Very precise stitching, solid steel construction throughout the mechanical parts, convenience of zig zag/reverse/needle position without the added complexity of unnecessary cams, and very simple logical controls. Awesome and often under-rated machine. I named mine "Sophia".
I had a portable Huskie and its feed dogs were ultra finicky, got tired of paying to service it for endless high maintenance issues. Now have a Fashion Mate 237 & a Singer 404 and either of those beats the fancy computer plastic modern ones for the sewing I do: simple garments, home dec items, remaking/upcycling jeans and most importantly: Sewing Without Hassles. LOVE the vintage machines, prefer to hand embroider anyway so don't miss all the fancy schmantzy machine stitches.
This is a great machine - I picked mine up in mint condition for literally 1/5 th the price of a modern Singer Heavy Duty, and it's 5 times more refined and robust. In addition to the features demonstrated here, if you're sewing outdoor kit as I do, a short, narrow zig-zag does a very passable bar tack.
Thank you for this video... Recently I got one of these from a friend's mom who was cleaning out their attic: she'd been given this sewing machine by her then-fiancee as an engagement gift. I haven't used my new machine (bought in 2020) ever again since... :-) It's so simple and the stitches are so beautiful and regular. I'm an absolute beginner, but this is already my favourite sewing machine!
Thank you so much for this. I inherited my late grandmother’s 237 and of course the manual is nowhere to be found. I am a complete beginner, but I now have a basic grasp of how the machine works and am able to start sewing thanks to this video.
How nice to have a machine that was your grandmother's. FYI, Singer sewing manuals are the easiest to find online and almost always free. Here is a link to a free download of your 237 user manual. They are free at the Singer website. www.singer.com/en-ca/search/support?title=237
Regarding L/C/R needle position adjustment: It's very useful for when you want to cheat just a little to one side or the other to get up nice and tight against a raised part of the garment (like a zipper, or a bulky seam or hem, or along a braided or other bulky decorative trim). Also nice if you want to keep the bulk of the fabric squarely between the presser foot and feed dogs for even feeding, but sew a really narrow topstitch along the edge. I find that I have used that feature more often than I originally thought I would.
Wow, great to know the machine I picked up on the side of the street will have better functionality than my other machine! This along with other videos will hopefully help me give a second life to my Singer
I'm glad I found your video on this machine. I managed to pick one up at a Goodwill that has it installed in a table where it goes under and you can swing what becomes the top of the table back onto itself. It's no where near as nice as yours but it's definitely in decent condition as it was clearly still used (still has thread up top and down below). I'm new to sewing so I'm glad this is pretty much a great machine to learn on. I'm going to be picking up another in table machine that someone in my town is selling. Based on the serial number on the motor it looks like it's from 1884 which is amazing. It's been in storage however so it's going to need some serious TLC but I can't wait to get it. Again, thanks for this video albeit it 3 years later. :)
Thank you Steven. I have found that no matter how old or rough they might appear, vintage home sewing machines are remarkably resilient after they receive long overdue service. Once you get the machine from 1884, if you look closely at it, you may find that it was "Modernized" sometime in the 1920s or 1930s with electricity which was state of the art tech then. Singer was especially strong in this area as they wanted to keep customers that could not be convinced to trade in their treadle machines. Yours may not even be in its original treadle table or perhaps it was a hand crank model in a case. Either way, with some research and patience, they can be made to run again and sew the same beautiful stitches as when they were first purchased!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'll be sure to give it a good once over after I clean it up a bit. It was clearly left in probably a garage or something as it had cobwebs on it which grosses me out being afraid of them pesky critters. Nonetheless, I'll get some canned air and a duster and clean it out in my garage before bringing in my house hehe. I'll be getting it next Friday. I'm excited to have found your channel. I'll be going over your videos as I find the older machines to be fascinating. I knit and crochet so being able to add in sewing to my skills will be great. Again, thank you and I look forward to watching more of your videos!
Another great video! I like the option of moving the needle for the purposes of putting in zippers. It works well with zipper foot and it might aid in making custom buttonholes. Zig zag is nice when I don't feel like breaking out the serger. I do also like to machine embroidery that is a very expensive piece of computerized plastic. When it breaks, I will go back to hand embroidery if I need to. TFS
I have this model sewing machine since 1981 in my houe and i bought it for my sister she use it for long time and is still in good working condition now
This is a fabulous machine. It's not glamorous, not many bells and whistles, and weighs a ton. But this thing can SEW and makes the best satin stitch you ever saw. (Those three needle positions, along with the fabulous satin stitch, makes a darned good buttonhole, BTW.)
Needed this. Bought my machine in 1971 and it is heavy!! But it has been in storage for 3 years and I could not remember how to do anything. I now need to find someone in the Denver area who can clean it up for me.
I love the sound the 237 makes, very tough and produces a ery nice stitch. Nothing can compete with the class 15 where the bobbin faces the left as far as stitch quality. One thing I will mention is the way you remove the material from the machine... if you turn the machine until the take up lever is right at the top and the needle bar just starts to go down... this "completes" the stitch and you will find it is not nesessary to hold the threads like you do... The reason you must hold them is the take up lever is at the point that it is pulling the thread back out of the material to complete the stitch, the way you do it, it tries to pull the thread back out of the needle. Complete the stitch and you will have fewer issues with that happening. Thanks for your videos, especially the ones of the forgotten rotary machines. I make shirts and use straight stitching for 99% of my sewing. I sold a Juki that had 194 stitches that I simply never used. I have an extremely clean Singer 337 coming... class 66 Apollo shuttle... My second favorite bobbin system... I wanted an all metal machine with straight and the sometimes useful zigzag stitch. ;)
Thanks David. Great point about the take up arm. Its funny how so many machines even all the way back to the 50's had lots of decorative stitches that largely went unused. I'm sure some folks find them useful, but most people use Straight, ZigZag, and occasionally Blind Stitch. Not much else unless they sew on knits and find Stretch stitches useful.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage it will take couple of hours to upload, but i made a video off my White 761 Automatic. The camera doesn't do the paint justice... it's metallic paint. Video id's uploaded just search for white 761 Automatic...
Thanks for the video. I have a 287 which is almost identical except the bobbin winder is on the front faceplate and it has a knob to drop the feed dogs on the base. Like the 237 it's all metal except, I was surprised to find, there's a nylon gear at the back of the tension knob assembly - it's the gear that holds the tension spring.
Yo Tengo una que la rescate del garage d mi suegra jjj pero estoy teniendo dificiltad con El zig zag en toallas ya le he kitado y puesto tension ya hasta le cambie ahuja ya nose k mas hacer me cose x pedazos Bien El zig zag y luego me cose recto 🤷🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️ soy principiante en Este Mundo de la makinas. Me podrias ayudar con eso??
It's worth noting that the 237M machine was made in Italy (M = Monza), and that later models have a handy switch on the right front to drop the feed dogs. Also, that in zigzag mode, the entire bobbin area moves left and right in sync with the needle bar! The bobbin cover is plastic, and can break apparently. I picked up one of these cheap but the hand wheel would barely turn. Turns out that having the bobbin winder in the top right means that lots of bits of thread come flying off and get sucked into moving parts! I removed the handwheel, and pried out the bushing a little, and removed a foot of thread that was wrapped around the main shaft (outside the body). There was also thread wrapped around the motor behind the belt. So if you use the bobbin winder, keep a close eye on loose thread, or use a standalone bobbin winder or another machine.
Thanks for sharing Trish. Yes, that cover of the bobbin hook and race area is plastic, but fortunately, they are reproduced and available very inexpensively online. Your point on the ZigZag mode motion of the bobbin case is correct and I have a feeling they 'borrowed' that feature from Necchi's earlier use of the design or paid a license to use it if the patent was still in force at the time. These can make really nice and strong machines for less money than a Necchi.
I have a Singer Fashion Mate 239....I picked it up in Goodwill and thought I could repair it myself but to no avail....it has a cabinet that was made by Hallmark.....it makes me sad but would you be interested? The steel housing was made in Italy and the motor was crafted in France. I can't fix it.
Excellent explanation I have a singer professional buttonholer vertical needle I will like to use the singer 237 for the buttonholer it work? the one we using is to rusty for white fabric
Loved your video ! I have that exact model it has served me well since the 70's . Although since I having started sewing again it has stopped working. It seems like the main wheel doesn't turn the belt looks fine to me. Any ideas what could be wrong with it ? I appreciate any ideas.
I just bought one of these for my granddaughters to learn on. I bought one around 1970 with the money I earned from babysitting--50 cents per hour and the machine cost right at $100. The machine is in be at shape. Do I need to clean out the old grease? What kind of grease do I need to use on it? Can I use Organ needles on it? Just a note on the needle position--this makes it possible to make decent buttonholes without an attachment. Start with the wide zigzag stitch to bartack the end, then shift to right needle position and narrow zigzag. Make right side to end, with needle down on right side, switch to wide and make bartack at end. End with needle on left, turn and re sew the bar tack, and needle on right and switch to narrow zigzag. Stitch the remaining pigeonhole side to the bar tack, switch to wide, bar tack over first bar tack and finish by switching to straight stitch for a few stitches. All stitches in the fine section.
Hello Debbie and thank you for sharing how the needle position adjustment is useful. To your questions, I use Singer brand Lubricant grease. As for Organ Brand needles, yes, I use them myself along with other brands. Their Titanium coated line is especially durable. Just be sure to specify 15x1 Home sewing needles since Organ produces needles for home machines as well as Industrial needle types. I seldom find much of the old grease is left when I overhaul a machine. If you do see any excess old grease, it would be helpful to remove that before adding new grease.
Thank you for this great video. I purchased a 237 today for $15, and now I know I got a good one! The only concern is the plastic case seems a bit frail....perhaps I could install into a different, sturdier case or perhaps a cabinet. Would this be possible?
Hola, tengo una Singer 239 ( es prima hermana de la 237)y no me cose por debajo. Podrías decirme que le podría estar pasando, gracias. Me encantan tus videos.
Sir, I love your channel. You motivated me to buy an older singer sewing machine. I purchased a Singer 237. The tension assemble needs to be replaced. I don't want to use the original parts because it has plastic parts. What other model of singers tension assemblies are interchangeable with the 237?
short stitches on vinyl, leather causes cutting of the fabric/ by thread, meaning the small stitches are very close together causes the fabric to naturally cut itself...
I found a Singer 347, in it's cabinet next to a dumpster, I couldn't leave it behind. You can hear the motor straining but, the needle doesn't move. Which of your videos should I start with???
Oh well you have lots of options here. This machine uses a Low Shank design for all of its presser feet and attachments and Low Shank is the most common for vintage home machines. You can purchase vintage presser feet online for very little in LOTS of types given how many Singer made. You can also use new modern Low Shank feet, but the quality is generally lower than vintage and both have similar costs mostly. Check Ebay, Etsy, Bonanza etc. You should easily find them with no problem.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos. All very informative. Thank you. I have a question, have you ever worked on a Lady Kenmore 89? I’ve been working on one for the last month and I’ve gotten it going but it stops when I slow down which makes it impossible to direct it if I were to actually make something with it. I’m stomped and I was wondering if you have any tips? Thank you.
Hi. Actually, that is one model I've not had the pleasure of working on. They were sold for a relatively short period of time and were produced by Kaiser-Gritzner in Germany for White who supplied them for Sears. FYI, unlike many Kenmores, yours are less common and so are parts for them. You might search for a group on Facebook or other social media site where fans of Kenmores gather. You could find some potential resources there.
I have a singer vintage machine that is still in the cabinet. It has both a treadle and an electric cable. Have been a little too scared of wrecking it to do anything with it it’s damn heavy to move
Its actually not that unusual to come across a machine in a treadle table that also has electric power setup. Your machine could be a model sold after electrified machines became common but put into a preowned treadle table. But more likely, it could be the original treadle machine that was later "upgraded" to electric power as many machines were. The original owners would have resisted giving up their existing machines due to preference and expense so Singer (and likely other makers) offered to sell them a service overhaul that would allow them to use electricity with their existing machines and even tables.
I have a 237, it sat for a long time in my sister's garage, it'll need a new belt and cord, but I cleaned it and got it working. The main issue with it is the bar that holds the needle and goes up and down keeps falling over. I don't know if anything else is wrong with it. Is this worth repairing?
Any brand of 15x1 home sewing machine needles will work. There are various "point types" within this spec such as "Sharp", Ball Point (for knits), Leather, Jeans (heavy fabric). And each of these will come in various sizes depending on your sewing needs.
My 1966 Robin egg blue is all metal gears. The Touch and sews I have had plastic gears. But a robin egg blue 347 had one plastic gear. What year is your machine?
Excellent video. A few days ago I bought a 328k machine that was unbalanced while trying to make modification to sew small leather things. What # of the needle and thread do you use in leather. I appreciate your attention
Hi Herman. Be sure to use a "Leather Tipped" needle. Its a home sewing machine needle so it will fit your machine for compatibility, but the needle package should say "Leather". Various brands have these and are not hard to find online or even in local sewing retail stores. As for size, you want to use needles in proportion to your thread weight. I've often used Size 16 and even preferred 18 because when leather stitches are stressed, the weight of leather often demands thicker threads than say; a silk hankerchef. Another TIP: When sewing leather, set your machine up to use the longest stitch it can make. Short stitch length often can lead to popped stitches given the nature of leather as a material.
Awesome video, thank you! My mom just gave me hers because I said I’d like to learn to sew & make my 2yr old son some bedding, etc. What do you suggest I have replaced/overhauled? She said it was recently ’serviced’ - whatever that consists of??
What a great project idea Jim. Most all parts for this machine are available as replacements but I would clean and oil it first to see how it runs. The only common failure point for these (after many years of us) is a shuttle ring cover that was made of plastic. It's not a drive train part per se and they are still reproduced given how many of these machines were produced. I still consider the 237 an "Heirloom" quality model. Yours might be just fine, but you can always have one on hand if you don't need it now. Here is a link to the part I'm referring to. They are currently out of stock but you can search other locations if you need one currently. Here is the link and photo with product number for reference. www.sewingpartsonline.com/race-cover-singer-352075.aspx
I have a touch and sew 628 deluxe it can with all of the blacks disc 0 to 21 it sew nice. My problem is the handle to move up and down for stitch length is missing the screw to tight it now can I fix this
I bought one of these awhile ago after being so disgusted with a brand “new” machine I had just purchased that was pretty much ALL plastic. The last machine I had purchased prior to that was a Singer Athena 2000 in about 1980-part plastic, but pretty durable... Anyway, I was pretty pleased with this 237...The only thing is that it was missing the little bobbin winding tire inside, which I didn’t notice because the tire is inside😜...I purchased a pack of two tires online, supposedly rubber, but they felt more like plastic so you can imagine the traction they got. My question is: Is there any reliable place to purchase truly rubber tires that will work on these great old machines?
Hi Tamara. Yes, there are a variety of suppliers you can find good quality rubber bobbin winder tires. I get mine from sew-classic.com and they have all worked really well for me. And the prices are very reasonable. Let us know when you have updated your machine and how it runs!!
The last 237 was made in 1968 and was the last Singer to have all metal gears. The production run likely would have been somewhere from the mid 1960's or earlier to 1968.
Awesome video man! I just learned so much about sewing from this single video. Thank you. I recently found a singer 437 zig zag in the trash complete with case. But unfortunately it's missing the power cord and foot pedal. Do you know where I might be able to purchase one of those? I was looking on eBay but didn't see one. Would love to learn how to sew on it.
Here is a supplier I have used before who has been reliable. He has one for the Singer 457 which 'Might" be the same plug. Check this link to the item I found, BUT.... Be sure and contact him to verify if this is the same one you need or if he recommends a different one. The link is where I found the cord with a new pedal. It won't be that much different and can be nice if you have the older pedal. But he may also have the cords separately as well. www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-457/products/new-singer-sewing-machine-foot-control-cord-fits-models-337-338-347-348-457-466-476
I just bought this model for $30 and I am excited to have an extra one. I already own an old Kenmore but if I use it for an hour, the pedal feels warm. Is that normal?
It depends on the age of the Kenmore. If the pedal is not electronic, then older pedals can get warm as they used either a Rheostat or Carbon Pile design. FYI, these should always be set on a flat hard surface and NOT on carpeting directly since they cool by convection and need air to circulate around them. Also, how warm is it? Some warmth is normal but if it feels uncomfortably hot, then it needs replacing. Inspect the pedal for cracks as well as any 'crackling' sounds. These can also be reasons for replacing it, but replacements are low in price and common online for Kenmores. If the pedal is electronic, then no, it should not be getting warm. Good news is that you can also get replacement electronic generic pedals online with or without the new cord for the Kenmore. But when in doubt, have it checked over by a local sewing/vacuum service center. It should cost very little and you always want to err on the safe side.
Hi Barbara. Given how many models Singer had in production, its possible that this sad changeover impacted more than one model series. I can say that the Singer 237 model you see in this video had all steel gearing. The only plastic part was the race cover which is not a part of the drivetrain and reproduction replacements are still made if one should crack. Also, the top lid of this machine is plastic, but the core drivetrain is all metal and that is the most important factor when considering whether an old sewing machine is what I like to call, "Heirloom Quality". There was a specific year (Circa 1965) when Singer replaced their wonderful steel gear drivetrain on their Touch and Sew Models. The first Touch and Sews had all steel gears and mechanical parts. While they had made the lid on that machine plastic along with the drip pan, that is ok as the machines were mechanically very durable. It is my understanding that Touch and Sew models, 600, 603, 604, 600e, 603e, and 604e were made with steel components/gears. Subsequent Touch and Sew model numbers show a gradual change to plastic gears which did not last. Its worth noting that the models with the letter "e" in the number were less prone to user error when moving from bobbin winding to sewing. The Touch and Sew represented one of Singer's last engineering innovations. Some sewers don't care for them, but they do have their fans and I have restored one of the good steel gear models for a client who loves sewing with it so picking a machine is like selecting anything else in that people have their own subjective experience with things good or bad. At this point in the history of that model, your only option to know for sure is to check underneath to see if there is steel or plastic gearing. It's hard to believe but it has been over 50 years ago since the downgrading of consumer items began to show up and likely was under way before that, depending on the manufacturer and product category. I hope this is helpful.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage .... Thanks! Lots of cool info. I sewed my first dress on my grandmother’s Singer treadle machine many, many years ago. I love the vintage machines!
Just bought a singer 237! Would it be possible to email you for some help restoring it to working order? First time sewing machine owner so I have no idea where to start
How do you set the timing on Model 237? Do you have a video for that? I live in a rural area where there's not a repair shop convenient plus my machine is in a cabinet and hard to transport.
Hi Becky. If you could locate a Singer Service manual, that could be a good resource though I'm not sure how common those are for this model. I would be happy to make a video like you describe the next time I have one of these. You might also do a search for blogs where some others may have covered how to do the timing adjustment.
Great video! I've a question for you. The problem I've with my 237 is that the needle is too near the front edge of the zizag hole (needle plate) and is in fact touching and bending the needle. I know how to adjust the height of the needle bar, but I can't seem to find anywhere how to adjust the front-to-back movement so that the needle sits more in the middle of the hole. This is not about the zigzag adjustment that is working fine. I've changed needle, which is fitted correctly. The machine itself is sewing beautifully as you've demonstrated. Hope you can shed light on this matter. Thanks.
I'm unable to give you any specifics without being able to see your machine first hand, but you might find good info that can help you with that and a number of other specific issues. At Yahoo, they have a groups section and you can search for groups such as those for vintage singer sewing machines. I often find helpful info there when I'm searching for a solution for my own machines.
Yvonne, I have a 287 and it's virtually the same machine. The only difference is the bobbin winder is on the front panel and there's a knob on the base to drop the feed dogs. I use the 237 manual for my 287.
Try checking your manual first as it may have a troubleshooting section. You can also try re-threading the top and bottom threads and also replacing the needle. Be sure to have the presser foot UP when you thread the machine since having the foot down can interfere with tension settings during threading. Also check to be sure your thread is properly catching the check spring. There are many settings that a sewing machine requires and if one of them is off, it can impact the stitch formation.
@@MsBflat Were you able to fix your tension? The manual WILL help you with this; and if it doesn't take to a good Singer support sewing center. I have one of these, and if you haven't fixed the tension issue; let me know what's going on; between myself & my best friend, who does machine repairs, maybe we can tell you what to focus and work on from the manual. I can't and wouldn't support a machine on YT, but if it's in the manual I can give you a heads up on what page and technique to focus on. I got one of these free on Craigslist, in the original cabinet for free; and I tricked it out on my own. I used to be intimidated by this sort of thing, but I have a huge commercial embroidery machine with 15 needles so that went out the window years ago. Good luck on whatever path you choose.
It is interesting when you said that sewing machine manufacturers were under pressure to reduce costs of sewing machines they started making machines in plastics. These days in an effort to reduce the costs of sewing machine manufacturers are now no longer making machines in their own country and instead starting up factory's in Asia (example Bernina....) and despite what they say about machines being the same quality as they were when made in the manufacturing in their country of origin. Well, I will not buy any machine that is all plastic, I have in my collection machines that are all metal and made in their original country (I am such a sewing snob......)
Thanks for commenting Allison. And I don't think having high standards for quality makes you a snob. The shame is on those machine makers who have the audacity to claim their current offerings are built to last. Even the very high priced modern machines which have somewhat stronger motors than the super cheap models are not designed to last. When LCD screens burn out, yes, they can be replaced IF the models are still in production. But when the customer hears the costs of those proprietary parts AND labor, they recoil and are then talked into going with a brand new machine. And thus, the cycle continues. There is nothing wrong with buying a machine if you like some new feature it has. But to have to constantly replace junk machines is not sustainable to either the planet or the pocketbook. Past generations of our ancestors may not have had access to the same level of technology we do, but I have great admiration for their standards for quality and durability. If you see my video on "Hybrid vs. Heirloom" vintage machines, you may be surprised just how many years back they began to slowly and ever so gradually replace the steel with plastic. I'm going to do a video soon on my approach to those Hybrid machines.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I look forward to seeing them, I can see that in the future, people with these electronic machines will be looking to acquire a good old vintage sewing machine as they are stronger and not alot go wrong with them. There is no way that I would look to buy a Janome or Brother machine although both are really popular, if I was going to buy a new machine, I would go for a Swiss made Bernina (big $$$$) or the domestic Juki. I actually have two electronic Bernina's that I am going to sell because if anything goes wrong with them, they will be difficult to repair... I am about to acquire 'six' more machines, two Elna Supermatics, one from the fifties and the other from the seventies (which I will sell), a Singer 411G, Singer 319K, an Elna 'Lotus' and a Necchi 'Julia'. As you can imagine I am a member of alot of the vintage sewing machine groups on Facebook, and I am so pleased that I am not the only 'mad' collector out there....
DO you know which vintage sewing machine might have teal stripes on it around near where the needle is? I think it has the same body / shape as this singer.
Hello. It it is teal in color, it could be a Singer but could also be a Japanese made clone of one of the Singer designs. Does your machine have any logo or brand label of any kind?
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you! I don't have it yet but my friend is bringing it to me on Thursday. I only saw it briefly on a facetime call. I'm just getting excited about it.
Hi. I have used 69 weight thread on a Singer 15. This thread weight similar to some upholstery thread is pushing the limit of what most home machines can handle. I did not try that weight when I had this 237 model so I could not say for sure. You can try that thread if you have one of these. You may want to adjust the thread tension and see if your manual provides any guidance. And of course, you will want a larger needle size. (Size 18 is max for most machines except some of the older Singers.) If it doesnt work, the machine will be fussy and you can always remove it and try a slightly lighter weight thread.
Hi and thanks for asking. Not as of yet. One reason is that there are many models even within one brand like Singer and the models require different procedures depending on their mechanical design. I do have a video showing "How to buy a vintage sewing machine etc" which talks about things to consider when shopping for one. A full restoration of a machine can take many, many hours to perform. I may in the future think about making videos on various types of restoration procedures. Thank you for the suggestion.
Not a fan of the 237. I have had several over the years and find that especially the Zig-Zag mechanism lends itself to 'flex' issues. Slop would be another not so kind way to describe it. Once those mechanisms get some mileage on them, I find it difficult to TIME everything and the stitch quality suffers and other thread issues begin. I MUCH prefer the internals of the Slant-O-Matic series that were capable of decorative stitches. One could include pretty much ANY metal geared Zig-Zag sewing machine. In conclusion: The 237 Fashion Mate makes an excellent boat anchor.
I inherited this model sewing machine from a great aunt and I know nothing about sewing machines! I contemplated looking for a more modern "beginner/user-friendly" machine but after watching this I have a greater appreciation for it and I think it is probably best suited for my needs so thank you for this video! I'll be attempting my first sewing machine project soon - cushion covers!
Great and wise decision Marcella. While there are 'some' features that new machines have that the vintage models lack, machines such as the one you inherited will be sewing long after any plastic new machines have been recycled into something or thown in the dump!
I bought this sewing macine 40 years ago for my sister and is still with me in good working contition a few days ago i oil it and found it in good working condition
I recently got this machine at an estate sale for $35 and I can’t wait to get started!
I have the exact same 237 machine, my husband bought it to me first Xmas we were married. It is a real work horse and still going strong. I have had it serviced a few times, I really love this sewing machine. It’s so easy to use with great results.
That is awesome!
i just picked up this model from an estate auction in a cabinet for maybe $20. i also got a kenmore 22 stitch for $15. im wanting to make myself a leather jacket so i thought it could start learning on these. i will be going through the videos and watching. thank you for the content. both machines seem very well taken care of and was very happy to win them.
I have 4 vintage machines (so far) and have recently sold my first machine which was a modern electronic Viking-Husqvarna. My 237 Fashion Mate is my go-to workhorse machine. I love it for the reasons mentioned here. Very precise stitching, solid steel construction throughout the mechanical parts, convenience of zig zag/reverse/needle position without the added complexity of unnecessary cams, and very simple logical controls. Awesome and often under-rated machine. I named mine "Sophia".
I had a portable Huskie and its feed dogs were ultra finicky, got tired of paying to service it for endless high maintenance issues. Now have a Fashion Mate 237 & a Singer 404 and either of those beats the fancy computer plastic modern ones for the sewing I do: simple garments, home dec items, remaking/upcycling jeans and most importantly: Sewing Without Hassles. LOVE the vintage machines, prefer to hand embroider anyway so don't miss all the fancy schmantzy machine stitches.
This is a great machine - I picked mine up in mint condition for literally 1/5 th the price of a modern Singer Heavy Duty, and it's 5 times more refined and robust. In addition to the features demonstrated here, if you're sewing outdoor kit as I do, a short, narrow zig-zag does a very passable bar tack.
Thank you for this video... Recently I got one of these from a friend's mom who was cleaning out their attic: she'd been given this sewing machine by her then-fiancee as an engagement gift. I haven't used my new machine (bought in 2020) ever again since... :-) It's so simple and the stitches are so beautiful and regular. I'm an absolute beginner, but this is already my favourite sewing machine!
Thank you so much for this. I inherited my late grandmother’s 237 and of course the manual is nowhere to be found. I am a complete beginner, but I now have a basic grasp of how the machine works and am able to start sewing thanks to this video.
How nice to have a machine that was your grandmother's. FYI, Singer sewing manuals are the easiest to find online and almost always free. Here is a link to a free download of your 237 user manual. They are free at the Singer website. www.singer.com/en-ca/search/support?title=237
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage Thanks so much! It hadn’t even crossed my mind to look for a vintage manual online. Very much appreciated!
Regarding L/C/R needle position adjustment: It's very useful for when you want to cheat just a little to one side or the other to get up nice and tight against a raised part of the garment (like a zipper, or a bulky seam or hem, or along a braided or other bulky decorative trim). Also nice if you want to keep the bulk of the fabric squarely between the presser foot and feed dogs for even feeding, but sew a really narrow topstitch along the edge. I find that I have used that feature more often than I originally thought I would.
Wow, great to know the machine I picked up on the side of the street will have better functionality than my other machine! This along with other videos will hopefully help me give a second life to my Singer
Great to hear!
I have this machine and still use it. Bought it originally for about $80. Mine is made in Italy and weighs 32 pounds.
I'm glad I found your video on this machine. I managed to pick one up at a Goodwill that has it installed in a table where it goes under and you can swing what becomes the top of the table back onto itself. It's no where near as nice as yours but it's definitely in decent condition as it was clearly still used (still has thread up top and down below). I'm new to sewing so I'm glad this is pretty much a great machine to learn on. I'm going to be picking up another in table machine that someone in my town is selling. Based on the serial number on the motor it looks like it's from 1884 which is amazing. It's been in storage however so it's going to need some serious TLC but I can't wait to get it. Again, thanks for this video albeit it 3 years later. :)
Thank you Steven. I have found that no matter how old or rough they might appear, vintage home sewing machines are remarkably resilient after they receive long overdue service. Once you get the machine from 1884, if you look closely at it, you may find that it was "Modernized" sometime in the 1920s or 1930s with electricity which was state of the art tech then. Singer was especially strong in this area as they wanted to keep customers that could not be convinced to trade in their treadle machines. Yours may not even be in its original treadle table or perhaps it was a hand crank model in a case. Either way, with some research and patience, they can be made to run again and sew the same beautiful stitches as when they were first purchased!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'll be sure to give it a good once over after I clean it up a bit. It was clearly left in probably a garage or something as it had cobwebs on it which grosses me out being afraid of them pesky critters. Nonetheless, I'll get some canned air and a duster and clean it out in my garage before bringing in my house hehe. I'll be getting it next Friday. I'm excited to have found your channel. I'll be going over your videos as I find the older machines to be fascinating. I knit and crochet so being able to add in sewing to my skills will be great. Again, thank you and I look forward to watching more of your videos!
@@oberkorn13 Welcome to the channel Steven. Keep us posted on your progress!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Will do!
Another great video! I like the option of moving the needle for the purposes of putting in zippers. It works well with zipper foot and it might aid in making custom buttonholes. Zig zag is nice when I don't feel like breaking out the serger. I do also like to machine embroidery that is a very expensive piece of computerized plastic. When it breaks, I will go back to hand embroidery if I need to. TFS
I got mine for 10 bucks today at an auction. :D so I'm here and ready to learn. I usually hand sew my stuff.
That is awesome!
I have this model sewing machine since 1981 in my houe and i bought it for my sister she use it for long time and is still in good working condition now
Thanks for sharing
This is a fabulous machine. It's not glamorous, not many bells and whistles, and weighs a ton. But this thing can SEW and makes the best satin stitch you ever saw. (Those three needle positions, along with the fabulous satin stitch, makes a darned good buttonhole, BTW.)
I bought my 237 in near MINT condition! I really love it. I use it or my Singer 201 🥰
Good choice!
Needed this. Bought my machine in 1971 and it is heavy!! But it has been in storage for 3 years and I could not remember how to do anything. I now need to find someone in the Denver area who can clean it up for me.
Thanks so much this is my machine I’m trying to work out
I love the sound the 237 makes, very tough and produces a ery nice stitch. Nothing can compete with the class 15 where the bobbin faces the left as far as stitch quality.
One thing I will mention is the way you remove the material from the machine... if you turn the machine until the take up lever is right at the top and the needle bar just starts to go down... this "completes" the stitch and you will find it is not nesessary to hold the threads like you do... The reason you must hold them is the take up lever is at the point that it is pulling the thread back out of the material to complete the stitch, the way you do it, it tries to pull the thread back out of the needle. Complete the stitch and you will have fewer issues with that happening.
Thanks for your videos, especially the ones of the forgotten rotary machines. I make shirts and use straight stitching for 99% of my sewing. I sold a Juki that had 194 stitches that I simply never used. I have an extremely clean Singer 337 coming... class 66 Apollo shuttle... My second favorite bobbin system... I wanted an all metal machine with straight and the sometimes useful zigzag stitch. ;)
Thanks David. Great point about the take up arm. Its funny how so many machines even all the way back to the 50's had lots of decorative stitches that largely went unused. I'm sure some folks find them useful, but most people use Straight, ZigZag, and occasionally Blind Stitch. Not much else unless they sew on knits and find Stretch stitches useful.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage it will take couple of hours to upload, but i made a video off my White 761 Automatic. The camera doesn't do the paint justice... it's metallic paint. Video id's uploaded just search for white 761 Automatic...
Thanks for the video. I have a 287 which is almost identical except the bobbin winder is on the front faceplate and it has a knob to drop the feed dogs on the base. Like the 237 it's all metal except, I was surprised to find, there's a nylon gear at the back of the tension knob assembly - it's the gear that holds the tension spring.
Hi, I have a 287 but can't seem to find the correct machine needle
Cada dia me enamoro mas de mi maquina 327,buen video felicitaciones
Yo Tengo una que la rescate del garage d mi suegra jjj pero estoy teniendo dificiltad con El zig zag en toallas ya le he kitado y puesto tension ya hasta le cambie ahuja ya nose k mas hacer me cose x pedazos Bien El zig zag y luego me cose recto 🤷🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️ soy principiante en Este Mundo de la makinas. Me podrias ayudar con eso??
It's worth noting that the 237M machine was made in Italy (M = Monza), and that later models have a handy switch on the right front to drop the feed dogs. Also, that in zigzag mode, the entire bobbin area moves left and right in sync with the needle bar! The bobbin cover is plastic, and can break apparently.
I picked up one of these cheap but the hand wheel would barely turn. Turns out that having the bobbin winder in the top right means that lots of bits of thread come flying off and get sucked into moving parts! I removed the handwheel, and pried out the bushing a little, and removed a foot of thread that was wrapped around the main shaft (outside the body). There was also thread wrapped around the motor behind the belt. So if you use the bobbin winder, keep a close eye on loose thread, or use a standalone bobbin winder or another machine.
Thanks for sharing Trish. Yes, that cover of the bobbin hook and race area is plastic, but fortunately, they are reproduced and available very inexpensively online. Your point on the ZigZag mode motion of the bobbin case is correct and I have a feeling they 'borrowed' that feature from Necchi's earlier use of the design or paid a license to use it if the patent was still in force at the time. These can make really nice and strong machines for less money than a Necchi.
I have a Singer Fashion Mate 239....I picked it up in Goodwill and thought I could repair it myself but to no avail....it has a cabinet that was made by Hallmark.....it makes me sad but would you be interested? The steel housing was made in Italy and the motor was crafted in France. I can't fix it.
Someone just gave me Exact same machine. It really is a great sewing machine.
I agree Shawna. Yours is one of the last great Heirloom quality Singer machines IMO.
This is also one of the best machines to drop into a Singer treadle base! Treadle belt just slip right onto the hand wheel and go!
I have one of these and it is a 3/4 sized machine. No one ever seems to mention that.
That's the light out a lot like my robin egg blue 348
For demonstrations it might be good to always use contrasting thread to avoid eye strain and constant messing with the camera. Thanks for the info..
Great suggestion!
Excellent explanation I have a singer professional buttonholer vertical needle I will like to use the singer 237 for the buttonholer it work? the one we using is to rusty for white fabric
Loved your video ! I have that exact model it has served me well since the 70's . Although since I having started sewing again it has stopped working. It seems like the main wheel doesn't turn the belt looks fine to me. Any ideas what could be wrong with it ? I appreciate any ideas.
Try using Black Thread on light color fabric, will be much easier to visualize, other then that, I really like your very good videos
thank you for the tip Sherry.
I just bought one of these for my granddaughters to learn on. I bought one around 1970 with the money I earned from babysitting--50 cents per hour and the machine cost right at $100. The machine is in be at shape. Do I need to clean out the old grease? What kind of grease do I need to use on it? Can I use Organ needles on it?
Just a note on the needle position--this makes it possible to make decent buttonholes without an attachment. Start with the wide zigzag stitch to bartack the end, then shift to right needle position and narrow zigzag. Make right side to end, with needle down on right side, switch to wide and make bartack at end. End with needle on left, turn and re sew the bar tack, and needle on right and switch to narrow zigzag. Stitch the remaining pigeonhole side to the bar tack, switch to wide, bar tack over first bar tack and finish by switching to straight stitch for a few stitches. All stitches in the fine section.
Hello Debbie and thank you for sharing how the needle position adjustment is useful. To your questions, I use Singer brand Lubricant grease. As for Organ Brand needles, yes, I use them myself along with other brands. Their Titanium coated line is especially durable. Just be sure to specify 15x1 Home sewing needles since Organ produces needles for home machines as well as Industrial needle types. I seldom find much of the old grease is left when I overhaul a machine. If you do see any excess old grease, it would be helpful to remove that before adding new grease.
I have this machine and it sews great. I did notice that there's some sparking in the motor. is there a way to fix that?
I've had one since 1967, but threading it is a PITA.
Thank you for this great video. I purchased a 237 today for $15, and now I know I got a good one! The only concern is the plastic case seems a bit frail....perhaps I could install into a different, sturdier case or perhaps a cabinet. Would this be possible?
Hola, tengo una Singer 239 ( es prima hermana de la 237)y no me cose por debajo. Podrías decirme que le podría estar pasando, gracias. Me encantan tus videos.
What was tension on leather?
Sir, I love your channel. You motivated me to buy an older singer sewing machine. I purchased a Singer 237. The tension assemble needs to be replaced. I don't want to use the original parts because it has plastic parts. What other model of singers tension assemblies are interchangeable with the 237?
short stitches on vinyl, leather causes cutting of the fabric/ by thread, meaning the small stitches are very close together causes the fabric to naturally cut itself...
Thanks for sharing!
I found a Singer 347, in it's cabinet next to a dumpster, I couldn't leave it behind. You can hear the motor straining but, the needle doesn't move. Which of your videos should I start with???
Try searching through the "TROUBLESHOOTING SERIES" first. Many of the hints in those videos apply to lots of machines of various brands.
So this would be a better machine than the new heavy duty singers? Im looking to learn and would be doing sail boat stuff.
Thank you
I have this machine. do you know where I could find presser feet that will fit this machine?
Oh well you have lots of options here. This machine uses a Low Shank design for all of its presser feet and attachments and Low Shank is the most common for vintage home machines. You can purchase vintage presser feet online for very little in LOTS of types given how many Singer made. You can also use new modern Low Shank feet, but the quality is generally lower than vintage and both have similar costs mostly. Check Ebay, Etsy, Bonanza etc. You should easily find them with no problem.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos. All very informative. Thank you. I have a question, have you ever worked on a Lady Kenmore 89? I’ve been working on one for the last month and I’ve gotten it going but it stops when I slow down which makes it impossible to direct it if I were to actually make something with it. I’m stomped and I was wondering if you have any tips? Thank you.
Hi. Actually, that is one model I've not had the pleasure of working on. They were sold for a relatively short period of time and were produced by Kaiser-Gritzner in Germany for White who supplied them for Sears. FYI, unlike many Kenmores, yours are less common and so are parts for them. You might search for a group on Facebook or other social media site where fans of Kenmores gather. You could find some potential resources there.
Pq la máquina singer fashion mate modelo 237 no quiere coser pq se me rompió la aguja y ya No quiere coser
I have the 237 and it keeps missing stiches can you advis why
The 237 is a great machine. What Craigslist do you post in? Thnx
I have a singer vintage machine that is still in the cabinet. It has both a treadle and an electric cable. Have been a little too scared of wrecking it to do anything with it it’s damn heavy to move
Its actually not that unusual to come across a machine in a treadle table that also has electric power setup. Your machine could be a model sold after electrified machines became common but put into a preowned treadle table. But more likely, it could be the original treadle machine that was later "upgraded" to electric power as many machines were. The original owners would have resisted giving up their existing machines due to preference and expense so Singer (and likely other makers) offered to sell them a service overhaul that would allow them to use electricity with their existing machines and even tables.
Is this same as/ or close to the Singer Fantasia made in Japan? Thank you
I have a 237, it sat for a long time in my sister's garage, it'll need a new belt and cord, but I cleaned it and got it working. The main issue with it is the bar that holds the needle and goes up and down keeps falling over. I don't know if anything else is wrong with it. Is this worth repairing?
I got one from my grandmother there is no needle in it can you please tell me what size needle it uses please
Any brand of 15x1 home sewing machine needles will work. There are various "point types" within this spec such as "Sharp", Ball Point (for knits), Leather, Jeans (heavy fabric). And each of these will come in various sizes depending on your sewing needs.
My 1966 Robin egg blue is all metal gears. The Touch and sews I have had plastic gears. But a robin egg blue 347 had one plastic gear. What year is your machine?
Excellent video. A few days ago I bought a 328k machine that was unbalanced while trying to make modification to sew small leather things. What # of the needle and thread do you use in leather. I appreciate your attention
Hi Herman. Be sure to use a "Leather Tipped" needle. Its a home sewing machine needle so it will fit your machine for compatibility, but the needle package should say "Leather". Various brands have these and are not hard to find online or even in local sewing retail stores. As for size, you want to use needles in proportion to your thread weight. I've often used Size 16 and even preferred 18 because when leather stitches are stressed, the weight of leather often demands thicker threads than say; a silk hankerchef. Another TIP: When sewing leather, set your machine up to use the longest stitch it can make. Short stitch length often can lead to popped stitches given the nature of leather as a material.
Awesome video, thank you! My mom just gave me hers because I said I’d like to learn to sew & make my 2yr old son some bedding, etc. What do you suggest I have replaced/overhauled? She said it was recently ’serviced’ - whatever that consists of??
What a great project idea Jim. Most all parts for this machine are available as replacements but I would clean and oil it first to see how it runs. The only common failure point for these (after many years of us) is a shuttle ring cover that was made of plastic. It's not a drive train part per se and they are still reproduced given how many of these machines were produced. I still consider the 237 an "Heirloom" quality model. Yours might be just fine, but you can always have one on hand if you don't need it now. Here is a link to the part I'm referring to. They are currently out of stock but you can search other locations if you need one currently. Here is the link and photo with product number for reference. www.sewingpartsonline.com/race-cover-singer-352075.aspx
I have one in good working condition with the stand/ cabinet and a bench. Do you know what a good price would be if I want to sell it?
I have a touch and sew 628 deluxe it can with all of the blacks disc 0 to 21 it sew nice. My problem is the handle to move up and down for stitch length is missing the screw to tight it now can I fix this
Yes,i would like to know,the strernght of the Original Motor on this machine please.Thank you,if anybody can help
I've had one since 1967. You have to put sewing machine oil in certain areas every now and them. I think I've done it twice.
I bought one of these awhile ago after being so disgusted with a brand “new” machine I had just purchased that was pretty much ALL plastic. The last machine I had purchased prior to that was a Singer Athena 2000 in about 1980-part plastic, but pretty durable... Anyway, I was pretty pleased with this 237...The only thing is that it was missing the little bobbin winding tire inside, which I didn’t notice because the tire is inside😜...I purchased a pack of two tires online, supposedly rubber, but they felt more like plastic so you can imagine the traction they got. My question is: Is there any reliable place to purchase truly rubber tires that will work on these great old machines?
Hi Tamara. Yes, there are a variety of suppliers you can find good quality rubber bobbin winder tires. I get mine from sew-classic.com and they have all worked really well for me. And the prices are very reasonable. Let us know when you have updated your machine and how it runs!!
Thank you so much! Will be checking them out😊
When was it manufactured though?
The last 237 was made in 1968 and was the last Singer to have all metal gears. The production run likely would have been somewhere from the mid 1960's or earlier to 1968.
Awesome video man! I just learned so much about sewing from this single video. Thank you. I recently found a singer 437 zig zag in the trash complete with case. But unfortunately it's missing the power cord and foot pedal. Do you know where I might be able to purchase one of those? I was looking on eBay but didn't see one. Would love to learn how to sew on it.
Here is a supplier I have used before who has been reliable. He has one for the Singer 457 which 'Might" be the same plug. Check this link to the item I found, BUT.... Be sure and contact him to verify if this is the same one you need or if he recommends a different one. The link is where I found the cord with a new pedal. It won't be that much different and can be nice if you have the older pedal. But he may also have the cords separately as well.
www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-457/products/new-singer-sewing-machine-foot-control-cord-fits-models-337-338-347-348-457-466-476
I've read this model was made in Italy, then Brazil. Was it ever made anywhere else? Say, France?
Yes, it sure was. It was made in France as well. Singer was that large back in the day.
Question for you sir, how can I touch base with you regarding this same machine? Privately?
I just bought this model for $30 and I am excited to have an extra one. I already own an old Kenmore but if I use it for an hour, the pedal feels warm. Is that normal?
It depends on the age of the Kenmore. If the pedal is not electronic, then older pedals can get warm as they used either a Rheostat or Carbon Pile design. FYI, these should always be set on a flat hard surface and NOT on carpeting directly since they cool by convection and need air to circulate around them. Also, how warm is it? Some warmth is normal but if it feels uncomfortably hot, then it needs replacing. Inspect the pedal for cracks as well as any 'crackling' sounds. These can also be reasons for replacing it, but replacements are low in price and common online for Kenmores. If the pedal is electronic, then no, it should not be getting warm. Good news is that you can also get replacement electronic generic pedals online with or without the new cord for the Kenmore. But when in doubt, have it checked over by a local sewing/vacuum service center. It should cost very little and you always want to err on the safe side.
I've never used Craigslist, so how can reach you. I would like to see what you have. Please seed info.
Curious.... what model Singer was the first to use plastic gears? I love the vintage sewing machines!! Beautiful tanks that were meant to last.
Hi Barbara. Given how many models Singer had in production, its possible that this sad changeover impacted more than one model series. I can say that the Singer 237 model you see in this video had all steel gearing. The only plastic part was the race cover which is not a part of the drivetrain and reproduction replacements are still made if one should crack. Also, the top lid of this machine is plastic, but the core drivetrain is all metal and that is the most important factor when considering whether an old sewing machine is what I like to call, "Heirloom Quality". There was a specific year (Circa 1965) when Singer replaced their wonderful steel gear drivetrain on their Touch and Sew Models. The first Touch and Sews had all steel gears and mechanical parts. While they had made the lid on that machine plastic along with the drip pan, that is ok as the machines were mechanically very durable. It is my understanding that Touch and Sew models, 600, 603, 604, 600e, 603e, and 604e were made with steel components/gears. Subsequent Touch and Sew model numbers show a gradual change to plastic gears which did not last. Its worth noting that the models with the letter "e" in the number were less prone to user error when moving from bobbin winding to sewing. The Touch and Sew represented one of Singer's last engineering innovations. Some sewers don't care for them, but they do have their fans and I have restored one of the good steel gear models for a client who loves sewing with it so picking a machine is like selecting anything else in that people have their own subjective experience with things good or bad. At this point in the history of that model, your only option to know for sure is to check underneath to see if there is steel or plastic gearing. It's hard to believe but it has been over 50 years ago since the downgrading of consumer items began to show up and likely was under way before that, depending on the manufacturer and product category. I hope this is helpful.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage .... Thanks! Lots of cool info. I sewed my first dress on my grandmother’s Singer treadle machine many, many years ago. I love the vintage machines!
👍🏻❤
Just bought a singer 237! Would it be possible to email you for some help restoring it to working order? First time sewing machine owner so I have no idea where to start
look up Ansy Tube...he has a whole series restoring a 237
How do you set the timing on Model 237? Do you have a video for that? I live in a rural area where there's not a repair shop convenient plus my machine is in a cabinet and hard to transport.
Hi Becky. If you could locate a Singer Service manual, that could be a good resource though I'm not sure how common those are for this model. I would be happy to make a video like you describe the next time I have one of these. You might also do a search for blogs where some others may have covered how to do the timing adjustment.
There is a FB Group for the Singer 237 that has the Service Manual. It's also in the Vintage Singer Sewing Machines Group too.
Great video! I've a question for you. The problem I've with my 237 is that the needle is too near the front edge of the zizag hole (needle plate) and is in fact touching and bending the needle. I know how to adjust the height of the needle bar, but I can't seem to find anywhere how to adjust the front-to-back movement so that the needle sits more in the middle of the hole. This is not about the zigzag adjustment that is working fine. I've changed needle, which is fitted correctly. The machine itself is sewing beautifully as you've demonstrated. Hope you can shed light on this matter. Thanks.
I'm unable to give you any specifics without being able to see your machine first hand, but you might find good info that can help you with that and a number of other specific issues. At Yahoo, they have a groups section and you can search for groups such as those for vintage singer sewing machines. I often find helpful info there when I'm searching for a solution for my own machines.
Do you have a video for 287 sewing machine? Please make one. Thank you.
Hello Yvonne. That 287 was a later iteration of the 237 model. If I ever come across a 287 in my travels, I would be glad to make a video of it.
Awesome. Thank you so much. ☺️
Yvonne, I have a 287 and it's virtually the same machine. The only difference is the bobbin winder is on the front panel and there's a knob on the base to drop the feed dogs. I use the 237 manual for my 287.
ارجو منكم تعطوني نصائح كيف اصلحها وكيفية ضبطها
I just won one for $33.00 yea
I have one like this---my tension is off--I don't know what it should be set on---can you help?
Try checking your manual first as it may have a troubleshooting section. You can also try re-threading the top and bottom threads and also replacing the needle. Be sure to have the presser foot UP when you thread the machine since having the foot down can interfere with tension settings during threading. Also check to be sure your thread is properly catching the check spring. There are many settings that a sewing machine requires and if one of them is off, it can impact the stitch formation.
Thank you so much---I'll try it!
I was on the verge of buying another this week---I'll try it--thanks again.
@@MsBflat Were you able to fix your tension? The manual WILL help you with this; and if it doesn't take to a good Singer support sewing center. I have one of these, and if you haven't fixed the tension issue; let me know what's going on; between myself & my best friend, who does machine repairs, maybe we can tell you what to focus and work on from the manual. I can't and wouldn't support a machine on YT, but if it's in the manual I can give you a heads up on what page and technique to focus on. I got one of these free on Craigslist, in the original cabinet for free; and I tricked it out on my own. I used to be intimidated by this sort of thing, but I have a huge commercial embroidery machine with 15 needles so that went out the window years ago. Good luck on whatever path you choose.
It is interesting when you said that sewing machine manufacturers were under pressure to reduce costs of sewing machines they started making machines in plastics. These days in an effort to reduce the costs of sewing machine manufacturers are now no longer making machines in their own country and instead starting up factory's in Asia (example Bernina....) and despite what they say about machines being the same quality as they were when made in the manufacturing in their country of origin. Well, I will not buy any machine that is all plastic, I have in my collection machines that are all metal and made in their original country (I am such a sewing snob......)
Thanks for commenting Allison. And I don't think having high standards for quality makes you a snob. The shame is on those machine makers who have the audacity to claim their current offerings are built to last. Even the very high priced modern machines which have somewhat stronger motors than the super cheap models are not designed to last. When LCD screens burn out, yes, they can be replaced IF the models are still in production. But when the customer hears the costs of those proprietary parts AND labor, they recoil and are then talked into going with a brand new machine. And thus, the cycle continues. There is nothing wrong with buying a machine if you like some new feature it has. But to have to constantly replace junk machines is not sustainable to either the planet or the pocketbook. Past generations of our ancestors may not have had access to the same level of technology we do, but I have great admiration for their standards for quality and durability. If you see my video on "Hybrid vs. Heirloom" vintage machines, you may be surprised just how many years back they began to slowly and ever so gradually replace the steel with plastic. I'm going to do a video soon on my approach to those Hybrid machines.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I look forward to seeing them, I can see that in the future, people with these electronic machines will be looking to acquire a good old vintage sewing machine as they are stronger and not alot go wrong with them. There is no way that I would look to buy a Janome or Brother machine although both are really popular, if I was going to buy a new machine, I would go for a Swiss made Bernina (big $$$$) or the domestic Juki. I actually have two electronic Bernina's that I am going to sell because if anything goes wrong with them, they will be difficult to repair... I am about to acquire 'six' more machines, two Elna Supermatics, one from the fifties and the other from the seventies (which I will sell), a Singer 411G, Singer 319K, an Elna 'Lotus' and a Necchi 'Julia'. As you can imagine I am a member of alot of the vintage sewing machine groups on Facebook, and I am so pleased that I am not the only 'mad' collector out there....
DO you know which vintage sewing machine might have teal stripes on it around near where the needle is? I think it has the same body / shape as this singer.
Hello. It it is teal in color, it could be a Singer but could also be a Japanese made clone of one of the Singer designs. Does your machine have any logo or brand label of any kind?
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you! I don't have it yet but my friend is bringing it to me on Thursday. I only saw it briefly on a facetime call. I'm just getting excited about it.
Can you use upholstery thread on it or 69 weight thread on it?
Hi. I have used 69 weight thread on a Singer 15. This thread weight similar to some upholstery thread is pushing the limit of what most home machines can handle. I did not try that weight when I had this 237 model so I could not say for sure. You can try that thread if you have one of these. You may want to adjust the thread tension and see if your manual provides any guidance. And of course, you will want a larger needle size. (Size 18 is max for most machines except some of the older Singers.) If it doesnt work, the machine will be fussy and you can always remove it and try a slightly lighter weight thread.
We're are shop then
Please cost prize
do you have a video of how to restore a singer vintage sewing machine?
Hi and thanks for asking. Not as of yet. One reason is that there are many models even within one brand like Singer and the models require different procedures depending on their mechanical design. I do have a video showing "How to buy a vintage sewing machine etc" which talks about things to consider when shopping for one. A full restoration of a machine can take many, many hours to perform. I may in the future think about making videos on various types of restoration procedures. Thank you for the suggestion.
Can you halp me ?
Not a fan of the 237. I have had several over the years and find that especially the
Zig-Zag mechanism lends itself to 'flex' issues. Slop would be another not so kind
way to describe it. Once those mechanisms get some mileage on them, I find it
difficult to TIME everything and the stitch quality suffers and other thread issues
begin.
I MUCH prefer the internals of the Slant-O-Matic series that were capable of
decorative stitches.
One could include pretty much ANY metal geared Zig-Zag sewing machine.
In conclusion:
The 237 Fashion Mate makes an excellent boat anchor.
The only way this would be better is if there were a firearm version.
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