Great videos. I have 40+ years under my belt running boats of many sizes and servicing outboards. I'm addicted to your videos. Good job and cheers from Central Florida!
Thanks from over the ditch, another no nonsense informative video... I have a little Honda BF 30 I got cheap as it was not operating. your videos have helped a lot couldn't have done it without you and apart from that really enjoy watching your videos
Great vid Stu. I've been boating for 30 years and have come full circle back to the simplest set up, tiller pull start motor. The draw backs out way the lack of headaches and its much cheaper.
There is no doubt that tiller/ pull start is a very simple and reliable setup. I never know what is more work, pull starting a motor and manually lifting it up or doing everything it takes to keep the starter and trim tilt working! ;)
Thank you! What a difference. I reemed out my old tilt tube each beginning of season for the last 4. Result was always sticky hard steering which I suffered through. New tube installed and works like butter. My 60 hp had power tilt and I didn’t use a lift or jack at all. I left the old bushings in but was able to do the job myself. Thanks again!
Glad it's smooth now. Cleaning those tubes out thoroughly is really tricky and usually just results in the coatings coming off making them rust faster. I'm amazed they aren't made of stainless.
Fantastic video! My steering shaft was completely seized so I had to remove the tilt tube with the shaft still in intact. Your demonstration was a great help! Thanks
Always loved ur videos...had my 115 Mercury wobble a bit and issues were bushing...my local marine shop told me a lot of money ...did it myself..thanks to you ...keep the good work
Stuuuuuuuu!!!! Thanks for saving me yet another trip to the outboard mechanic! Your videos are priceless and you explain every step so well. Don’t worry, just Stu it!!! 😁🤙🏼
Your videos have helped me so much! Every question i have had has been answered by you. Im now lead to believe i can do anything on my boat myself. Cheers Dan!
@@DangarMarine cheers for the reply. I got a couple questions about converting a 50hp 2 stroke Mercury from tiller to centre console steering is it possible to get your email to ask afew questions?
Quite a comprehensive and very well explained tilt tube replacement job. If ever my boat mechanic has watched it before doing the job of replacing the tilt tube bushing he would not damage (actually broke off) the trim signal sender lever arm when he attached the rope to hoist the outboard up. Thank you Stu and keep on with the good work.
He promised 4 months ago but no action up today. To make matters worse, he misplaced the broken lever arm so no way to look at its original shape to take no chances in ordering the right replacement for my Johnson Outboard J225HPLEEN model year 1999. As you may know, if the shape and length of the lever arm is not the same, it won't be actuated correctly for the right trim signal to the console gauge. What I am trying is to look for a similar sender unit around here in South Texas and go trial and error to find one that will fit. Thank you very much for your concern. Best regards.
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. One thing I would like to add. In my case the steering cable has very little working space (angle is too tight) so after getting the tube back in I had to disassemble it again and get the steering cable through the bores first, and then line everything back up and insert the pivot tube. Also, since it was a short run, I had to remove the fwd end as well to allow the cable to be pushed forward. More work than I had expected.
Love your videos, Stu- keep 'em coming! I've watched almost all of them. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy, and I can tell that you're a consummate professional- but also a good teacher! Cheers from northern Alberta, Canada!
Got this to do to mine cuz the tube is corroded away on one side. Had no idea how to do it until now. Thanks for the info. I have learned a great deal from your videos and looking forward to learning even more.
Thanks Man.........I had a feeling I was going to have to drag out my engine hoist for this job......been dealing with a crappy tilt tube for yrs and sick of repairing it every yr.......changed the cable last yr and should have done it all.......but one less job to do.......thanks again from Florida !!!
My tilt tube on my 96 mercury 50hp is all rusted out causing my steering wheel to lock up at times. Your video is just what I needed to tackle this job in the spring. Thank you for sharing so much knowledge 🙏
@@DangarMarine I followed your method of cleaning the cable tube for hard steering. I used a 12 gauge shotgun wire barrel brush to clean rust from inside tube with brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner to loosen the rust,then cleaned the tube with the 12 gauge shotgun cloth cleaning squares till rust was gone. Sprayed cable with white lithium grease reinstalled and everything worked great. Thanks again you saved me a fortune.
Thanks for sharing. Maybe a tip for Mercury 15 hp users. This engine comes with a soft rubber cap on the port side of the steering rod. At my boat this meant that the steering rod was rattling all the time, making a lot of noise. After 2 years the rubber cap had cracks all around. When I ordered a new one at my dealer he gave me a versoin for the 60 hp type, which is made of a harder rubber compound. I had to adjust the tension to seek the point that steering went light and rattling was gone. Now it’s fine, no more rattling nor vibrations in my steering wheel and no more noise.
You may already do this on heaver outboards but I'll share it anyway. Use of a slave pin would help line up the mounting holes. A salve pin being a solid metal bar the same OD and two or three inches longer than the tilt tube. Use a lathe to cut a taper on one end of the pin. The tapered end is inserted first and driven through the housing aligning all four holes perfectly. The tilt tube is then used to drive the slave pin out the other side. Enjoy your instruction very much. Thank you. Alan Waters
Great video Stu. It's nice to know how to go about doing this job if the need ever arises. I'll know when I try to turn the wheel on my evinrude 48 in the spring!
Thanks Will. I presume it isn't that common, particularly with fresh water boats that live on trailers, but I certainly have seem so rusty they are well beyond cleaning.
Great video, I'm an OEM engineer for years also., I have a backyard mindset I did sales/ service for Rolls-Royce products. And it's 1000 tn cranes and life rescue systems.
Nice video mate you the man got clear everything you explained, and could I ask you a question. Is that tilt tube all the same size with Johnson 25 hp late 1980- 1990
I'm not sure if they are all the same size for those models. Best thing to do is jump on MarineEngine.com and compare the part numbers for a few models and see if they are the same.
There are a few parts I'm always amazed aren't stainless from the factory and the tilt tube is definitely one of them. I imagine it would be way better than mild steel.
Hey Stu! I attempted this repair on my 2004 Yamaha 90TLRC the other day, and the tube appears to be frozen/corroded into the transom bracket. Any suggestions on how to break it free without damaging anything? Thank you!
Hi Dan, will you please do a video on replacing a stator on an outboard motor, and I have a question can a stator stop a motor from running even if all 3 spark plug wires have strong blue spark ?
Hey Stu, I'm getting ready to take on this project on a '78 Evinrude 70hp. Your videos are great and very helpful and great to watch!!(especially this one due to my upcoming project....lol) are all tilt rods the same size or are they motor specific? just wanna make sure I have the right one. Thanks again for all the great video's
Thanks mate, glad the videos are helping you. Tilt tubes are definitely of specific lengths for outboard models so make sure you get the right one for you.
I've seen videos on outboards with "drilled" exhausts ,and i was wondering if you could do a video showing how ,and explaining how it works thank you in advance. I've got a little boat that I got for free ,and your videos have given me inspiration to work on it. I'll document the process with videos ,and pics as i go on my channel. You're more than welcome to use anything i post on your channel. P.S Greetings from America mate.
Mainly just noise I love the sound of a Johnson 2-stroke ,but a little extra power wouldn't hurt my feelings XD Everything I've found shows that I should get about 30 mph or so out of a 50 hp motor which is enough for me. I've got a little 15 ft fiberglass tri-hull that is currently an empty shell, I'll be following your channel closely for ideas ,and how too's :)
Hi Dan my tube is rusted and frozen with rust allmost like welded to the aluminium, no way is it going to knock out,is it posible to cut through it and drill it out? Cheers Mike , North Coast
Yes, sometimes you definitely have to do that. There are bushings between the tube and the bracket so that gives you a little bit of a margin for error with your cutting and drilling.
Great video. I have a different steering setup but would like to use the tilt tube I have and having watched this video I have a better understanding on how it works and how to do it, so thanks! Quick question - my '97 Mercury 15hp that I just installed has a pivot lock lever just above the tilt tube so you can lock off the steering if you ever want to. The problem I am having is that even when that lock lever is wound right off as far as it goes (1/4 turn to the left), it's still hard to turn. Ideally I just want to remove that lever altogether so the motor turns freely. I just can't work out how to do that. Any ideas? My previous 9.9hp Mariner which is visually identical to my the Merc didn't have this lever and it turned very easily.
hi dan i love yr videos i was wondering if you can help me plz i have a 2005 mercury 90hp 2 stroke but i dont know which wires to use to switch the engine off can you plz help
Nice job mate... Everything went fairly smoothly..looks like you've done a few of those before. Is that the same Tohatsu you added the starter motor to last year ?
Are tilt tubes different sizes, my teleflex cable rod won't go through my mariner 25 tilt tube. Heavy duty cable and light duty must mean different rod thickness
Disregard - I was able to find this on the schematics - for others info - the nylon bushings go between the engine mid-section and the transom bracket.
thanks for your videos are very instructive I would like to ask you a question, if you can put the trim tilt Assist system on the mercury 25 HP 4 stroke?
Great Video. I'm trying to free up the steering on an old outboard that hasn't moved for a few years. The rod is close to fully out and it's locked solid. Any tips for freeing it up? No room to get a hammer on the end of it. Can't rotate it. Do I just cut it off and then drift out the remains and fit a new one?
@@DangarMarine Cheers mate. Trying heat cycles now. Can't believe how stuck it is! 3 different metals all in close proximity and wet with seawater - what could possibly go wrong!
@@DangarMarine Hi Stu, Finally got it freed off. Heating/Cooling and some tapping with a hammer using a jig I made to get more clearance for the hammer! Couldn't believe how tight it was... Now trying to get the gearcase off. This motor is fighting me all the way!
Hey dangar marine random question how do u remove a tilt/steering tube off a 85hp johnson I have taken the steering rod out and managed to crack the nut on the tube but it seems both sides have large nuts that are inserted into hex nut serts how do u get them out to get the tube out is there something I'm mistaken doesn't seem like it would sure not be 2 hex nuts wedged into the hex nut serts how would u undo them are they threaded
Stu, is there any way to get both the nuts off of the old tilt tube? The nut on the cable side is free, but the nut on other side is stuck. When I try to turn the nut, the whole tilt tube turns. Any ideas? Thanks.
Hi Dan ,yes I saw your video you mentioned my key pin was fine when I removed the fly wheel it was not broken couldn't have gotten firing at the plugs anyway if it was the pistons are moving when cranked so that means the shaft is turning . It trys to start when you frist turn the key but after that it just spends over. Do you think it could be that ignition coil or the stator acting up?
The spark plugs will still fire if that woodruff key is broken. The outboard in that video had good spark on all cylinders, just at the wrong time. Does your spark stop after a few rotations? If so, yes, it could be the exciter coil under the flywheel or the ignition coil.
Hi Stu, a quick question about a steering cable. If the cable is not attached to the steering wheel (fully free) and an outboard , can you just move the tube at the end on the cable freely? I am not sure if my cable is seized inside or it is just like that. In a shop they are all packed so I cannot check. Thanks.
Love the video's Stu, I have learnt so much from you, keep up the great vids, one question though, do you do any work on engines such as the Volvo penta?
Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the vids. I do a very small amount of work of diesel engines for mates but nothing commercially, I'm far from an expert on them.
I'm not sure if this would go here, or your replacing the steering cable tutorial. Anyhow, I have recently replaced my steering cable (your video was very helpful) but the holding nut will not flush up against the nut on the tilt tube. There is probably a 1/2 inch to an inch of thread left on the tube. Is this normal? If not, what's the fix? TIA
Hi mate, it's not uncommon for it not to cover the whole thread. As long as it is all the way on and tight so it won't come off it should be fine. You can lose a little bit of turning circle tightness though.
Stu, I have a '92 Evinrude 150hp. The tilt tube is seized into the stern brackets. Also, the lower pivot pin for the trim/tilt assembly is seized into the unit (spins free in the stern brackets). The only thing I haven't tried is heat. Is heating with a torch REALLY going to help? Thanks
Dangar Marine It worked! Question, should the tilt tube be a tight/press fit into the stern brackets? I'm trying to decide if I should keep honing the holes or if a tight fit is normal. Thanks!
Great video Stu! Ive watched it a bunch of times. I'm struggling with my 70hp Johnson on my Astro Pontoon. I think I'll just hang the engine in the air so I can get a swing on the old tube. Its really stuck! Any advice would be great.
Yes, lifting the entire motor up away from the transom can give you a lot more room depending on the transom design. Sometimes you need to try to break the tube up either using a long thin saw blade or by drilling it out but you need to be careful not to damage the outboard bracket of course.
Dangar Marine. Great idea. I just finished it up. I ended up heating the tube from the inside with a MAPP torch, then beat the heck out of it until it moved, then I sprayed it with WD40 and twisted the tube until I could feel a loose spot. 👍 Thanks again.
My motor seems to have some play in the tilt. I can wiggle it and thought this would fix my issue. Then i saw the bushing and pretty sure thats whats worn on mine... is that reasonable?
Have a 98’ merc 25 2 stoke that is stiff to lift and lower, I assume it’s the tilt tube. I tried to grease it but the fittings won’t take any grease they seem plugged up.. would heat help liquify the grease or do you think it needs to be completely replaced?
Hi Dan great video, Just having a hard time chasing a support steering tube for 89 bayliner 125hp outboard. Any idea where to get one in sydney, otherwise I was thinking of converting it to hydraulic but I might still need the tube!!! Thanks
great clip stu, I have a yamaha 30am and the tilt is seized up solid I've undone the big nut but I can't budge the tilt tube :-( any ideas how to remove? thanks
i have a steering issue when i let go or steering wheel either running or not the steering shaft slides out causing it to turn not stuck but pushes out
Any reason not to lube the inside of the tube? I would think that because of corrosion probability, a light coating would forestall corrosion somewhat longer. Yes?
Grease is a bit of a double edged sword with these steering tubes. Yes, it does help with corrosion, but too much grease inside that tube will start to make the steering stiff very fast.
2 questions. 1. I have a ns50d 1994 Nissan. When I tilt up and down. It is very noisy. The tilt tube looks rusty. I can not find the grease nipples that grease the bushings? Any idea? 2nd is if I do need to replace the tube and bushing. Any idea where I can get one? There are a bunch on the market but which one fits is my question. Thanks
Not all outboards have the grease nipples on them unfortunately. You'll need to find your exact model of outboard on a website like marineengine.com to get the right tilt tube and matching bushings.
I have a 1982 Mercury 25 hp that has not been used in a couple of years. The tilt tube is corroded inside the tilt bracket so it will not tilt. One of the grease fittings was missing and I guess it didn't get greased. I tried hammering the tube out, but it is really froze and I am afraid of breaking the aluminum bracket. So I plan to cut the tube and drill the center out till it is thin enough to knock out. This is a tiller handle so I don't need a tube for steering. So I am thinking about buying a 7/8'' bolt with enough sleeve to go through both ends of the bracket with the threads past the bracket enough for a nut. I can cut it to size. Then get another grease fitting and grease it up. Thinking about doing this because it looks like this tube may no longer be available or is very expensive. What you think?
Can't see any reason why it wouldn't work on a tiller motor. There are some nylon bushings between the tube and the bracket though to stop metal or metal contact. You'll want to see if you can find those at least.
Just curious mate...with the reasonable probability of the commuter boats sinking at some stage during their long lives...I guess it's a more common occurrence when they are tied up on the mainland ?? or overnight at home on the island ? ...or both ?
On the island is definitely more common as it is much more exposed to the weather than mainland which has a bit of a harbour. If it is rainy and windy it doesn't take much for a boat to sit low in the water from the rain and then start to take waves over the side from the wind, particularly if a bilge pump fails, a battery goes flat or a float switch jams.
I had never heard of Tohatsu prior to finding your channel. Looked them up on Wikipedia.org and found out that they've been around since 1922 and they've tried their hand at more than just outboard motors. Back to the tilt tube though... In your personal opinion, how often would the steering link want re-lubrication? Once a year or more often (depending on how often the boat submerges... lol ) ?
Hi Stan. Tohatsu has been around for a very long time. They make all the Mercury and Evinrude outboards below about 15HP so there are more of them around than people realise. Good question about lubricating the steering. I don't lubricate mine much at all (once every year or two) and it is still very smooth despite living in salt water. Personally I have found that steering that gets lubricated too often starts to gum up with grease and get stiff. Of course if you remove the steering, clean all the old grease off then add new you can't go too wrong, but most people tend to just keep adding more and I think that just makes things worse.
Any idea when Mercury got Tohatsu for their motors? Ditto for Evinrude (never knew that). Mostly I deal with OLD motors though... (user, not in business). '84 Evinrude 15 on my 13' aluminum Mirrocraft (big rowboat), and current project to get in the water, 1979 Evinrude 85 on a 16' Glastron fiberglass trihull.
My 1997 Merc 30 has 'TMC' inside the cowling 'Tohatsu Motor Corporation' I think mid to late nineties they switched over . I know 5 people with either tohatsu,mariner or mercury 30 HP and they are all identical apart from paint and decals.
I have a Evinrude V4 1974 85hp but it seems both ends of the tilt tube are locked into the brackets with recessed nuts , i was thinking maybe i have to spin the tube to to get the nuts out of each side but maybe there is some other way it has nuts locked into the outside brackets on each side , i honed out this tube maybe 2 years ago as it was beginning to stick on the steering but i have a spare motor that has what seems to be a brand new tube in it still with the plastic seal plugging the holes on either side so i was hoping i would be able to take out that one and put it in the working motor .. just cant find any info on how to remove the nuts that are locked into the brackets like yours in the video but its on both sides , got any tips , have you seen this ?
I have a 1975 Johnson 40hp (40EL75c) that im trying to put on a much more modern boat. 1997 Tracker pro 17'. On my outboard it's the clamp on type. Few questions: Can I change the complete swivel bracket so that the motor bolts to the transom instead of clamping to transom. I also don't have a tilt tube on this motor for my steering tube to run through. The boat has rotary pinion steering. Is they're an aftermarket steering bracket for the rear of my boat or front of motor? I'd like to ad hydraulic or electric trim as well since I do not have trim on my motor. I know I can buy an aftermarket trim plate but I was wondering if I could use a trim off another Johnson outboard. I see a few on eBay off bigger outboards but not clear if I can put them on the 40hp and what years the donor can be from. It does seem that it will be cheaper to buy the aftermarket trim kit but either way I'm left with how will I mount motor to trim plate since my engines bracket is the clamp on type. Love your channel! I'm addicted and learn a lot. I hope you can help answer my questions.g
I can't say I've ever seen your model of outboard, no I'm not to sure about swapping parts over. There are a few brackets for attaching steering without a tilt tube, this page shows the options www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=711 With regards to bolting it on, is there any place you can safely drill through on the transom bracket if it doesn't already have bolt holes in it? Another thing that might help you with regards to installing parts from other motors is to jump on a parts side and look up both your motor and the donor motor and see if the parts share a part number or at least look very similar.
It seems every time I look up how to fix something on outboard engines, I find the answer on your channel. Thank you very much from South Floida, USA
Glad to help!
Thanks from North Carolina! Great video, you are my RUclips go to guy for marine repairs.
Great videos. I have 40+ years under my belt running boats of many sizes and servicing outboards. I'm addicted to your
videos. Good job and cheers from Central Florida!
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying! :)
Thanks from over the ditch, another no nonsense informative video... I have a little Honda BF 30 I got cheap as it was not operating. your videos have helped a lot couldn't have done it without you and apart from that really enjoy watching your videos
Nice tutorial Mate! Now I know what to expect when I have to remove a tilt tube.
Thanks to your vids I have successfully changed my steering cable and now I am confident I can change the pivot tube. Thanks brother
Great vid Stu. I've been boating for 30 years and have come full circle back to the simplest set up, tiller pull start motor. The draw backs out way the lack of headaches and its much cheaper.
There is no doubt that tiller/ pull start is a very simple and reliable setup. I never know what is more work, pull starting a motor and manually lifting it up or doing everything it takes to keep the starter and trim tilt working! ;)
Thank you! What a difference. I reemed out my old tilt tube each beginning of season for the last 4. Result was always sticky hard steering which I suffered through. New tube installed and works like butter. My 60 hp had power tilt and I didn’t use a lift or jack at all. I left the old bushings in but was able to do the job myself. Thanks again!
Glad it's smooth now. Cleaning those tubes out thoroughly is really tricky and usually just results in the coatings coming off making them rust faster. I'm amazed they aren't made of stainless.
Fantastic video! My steering shaft was completely seized so I had to remove the tilt tube with the shaft still in intact. Your demonstration was a great help! Thanks
Always loved ur videos...had my 115 Mercury wobble a bit and issues were bushing...my local marine shop told me a lot of money ...did it myself..thanks to you ...keep the good work
You're welcome Anshul, glad you got it fixed up. :)
I have to do this for the corroded tube on my Evinrude 88SPL and you make this look so easy. Thank you for the detailed video. Wish me luck!
Good luck! :)
Stuuuuuuuu!!!! Thanks for saving me yet another trip to the outboard mechanic! Your videos are priceless and you explain every step so well. Don’t worry, just Stu it!!! 😁🤙🏼
Your videos have helped me so much! Every question i have had has been answered by you. Im now lead to believe i can do anything on my boat myself. Cheers Dan!
Always good to be able to help out a Cockney Hitcher. ;)
@@DangarMarine cheers for the reply. I got a couple questions about converting a 50hp 2 stroke Mercury from tiller to centre console steering is it possible to get your email to ask afew questions?
Quite a comprehensive and very well explained tilt tube replacement job. If ever my boat mechanic has watched it before doing the job of replacing the tilt tube bushing he would not damage (actually broke off) the trim signal sender lever arm when he attached the rope to hoist the outboard up. Thank you Stu and keep on with the good work.
Thanks Arturo, bummer the sender got broken. Did he replace it for you?
He promised 4 months ago but no action up today. To make matters worse, he misplaced the broken lever arm so no way to look at its original shape to take no chances in ordering the right replacement for my Johnson Outboard J225HPLEEN model year 1999. As you may know, if the shape and length of the lever arm is not the same, it won't be actuated correctly for the right trim signal to the console gauge. What I am trying is to look for a similar sender unit around here in South Texas and go trial and error to find one that will fit. Thank you very much for your concern. Best regards.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that the right one comes along soon.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that the right one comes along soon.
@@DangarMarinehey mate, just wondering, would worn bushes make a clunk like noise while using tilt and trim under load while driving cheers
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. One thing I would like to add. In my case the steering cable has very little working space (angle is too tight) so after getting the tube back in I had to disassemble it again and get the steering cable through the bores first, and then line everything back up and insert the pivot tube. Also, since it was a short run, I had to remove the fwd end as well to allow the cable to be pushed forward. More work than I had expected.
Thank u for all urs videos,they r like a guide for us...u explain nd show everything like a teacher...thank u a lot.
Keep on doing this!
+Florin Tancu Thanks Florin, you're most welcome!
Love your videos, Stu- keep 'em coming! I've watched almost all of them. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy, and I can tell that you're a consummate professional- but also a good teacher! Cheers from northern Alberta, Canada!
Thanks mate, glad to hear you've been enjoying the videos. :)
Got this to do to mine cuz the tube is corroded away on one side. Had no idea how to do it until now. Thanks for the info. I have learned a great deal from your videos and looking forward to learning even more.
Thanks mate, good luck with the job. :)
Thanks Man.........I had a feeling I was going to have to drag out my engine hoist for this job......been dealing with a crappy tilt tube for yrs and sick of repairing it every yr.......changed the cable last yr and should have done it all.......but one less job to do.......thanks again from Florida !!!
+ROB BUSHEAY No worries Rob, there is nothing like a fresh tube to go with a new cable.
My tilt tube on my 96 mercury 50hp is all rusted out causing my steering wheel to lock up at times. Your video is just what I needed to tackle this job in the spring. Thank you for sharing so much knowledge 🙏
Thanks you for all your steering help videos very informative and down to earth.
Al NJ. USA
Glad to help
@@DangarMarine I followed your method of cleaning the cable tube for hard steering. I used a 12 gauge shotgun wire barrel brush to clean rust from inside tube with brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner to loosen the rust,then cleaned the tube with the 12 gauge shotgun cloth cleaning squares till rust was gone. Sprayed cable with white lithium grease reinstalled and everything worked great. Thanks again you saved me a fortune.
Thanks for sharing.
Maybe a tip for Mercury 15 hp users. This engine comes with a soft rubber cap on the port
side of the steering rod. At my boat this meant that the steering rod was rattling all the time,
making a lot of noise. After 2 years the rubber cap had cracks all around. When
I ordered a new one at my dealer he gave me a versoin for the 60 hp type, which
is made of a harder rubber compound. I had to adjust the tension to seek the point that steering
went light and rattling was gone. Now it’s fine, no more rattling nor vibrations
in my steering wheel and no more noise.
Good tip, always great to share gems of information like that.
You are a legend dangarstu. Thanks so much mate.
Great video. I never knew that the grease fittings only lube the tilt, not the inside of the steering tube. Thanks.
Thanks John. I think that is a common misconception.
Thank You! After watching this video I realize that I'm NOT crazy and that rod WILL come out.
BigSlick731 I feel ur pain!
very nice & well documented , this video helped me out immensely. thank you very much
You may already do this on heaver outboards but I'll share it anyway. Use of a slave pin would help line up the mounting holes. A salve pin being a solid metal bar the same OD and two or three inches longer than the tilt tube. Use a lathe to cut a taper on one end of the pin. The tapered end is inserted first and driven through the housing aligning all four holes perfectly. The tilt tube is then used to drive the slave pin out the other side. Enjoy your instruction very much. Thank you. Alan Waters
+Alan Waters Hey Alan, great tip. I always love these custom tools. You are so right about making a slave pin for this job, great technique.
I used a 16 guage shotgun wire brush to clean the inter tube to clean rust and old grease . Perfect size and did a great job quick
Thanks for the vids, lots of info for me and others. Cheers from West Aussie.
Thanks Robert, glad the vids are helping you. :)
Great video Stu. It's nice to know how to go about doing this job if the need ever arises. I'll know when I try to turn the wheel on my evinrude 48 in the spring!
Thanks mate. Hope you're surviving the winter!
Thank you for showing this I have the exact job to do tomorrow.
Good luck!
Thanks Dan I'll check those out this weekend
orsum champ ;clear and percise
Great vid, again thanks for what you do !
What a great informative video, and on exactly the same motor I have, Fantastic, very well presented
Awesome! Very easy to follow and very informative.
Very helpful . In my case I've found too much slop between the tube and the motor housing.
Its an 18hp Tohatsu with no grease nipples on the tilt
Very helpful video.
thank you for your video it helped me alot
You’re welcome. :)
Nice work Stu. I actually haven't had to replace a tilt tube yet.
Thanks Will. I presume it isn't that common, particularly with fresh water boats that live on trailers, but I certainly have seem so rusty they are well beyond cleaning.
Great video once again mate.
Thanks Fabian! :)
Awesome video like always.
Thanks Erich.
so informative great job
Great video, I'm an OEM engineer for years also., I have a backyard mindset I did sales/ service for Rolls-Royce products. And it's 1000 tn cranes and life rescue systems.
Hello again to you
Great info on tube video
Be safe
Thanks, you too!
Another great vid!!
Thanks Jason. :)
Nice video mate you the man got clear everything you explained, and could I ask you a question. Is that tilt tube all the same size with Johnson 25 hp late 1980- 1990
I'm not sure if they are all the same size for those models. Best thing to do is jump on MarineEngine.com and compare the part numbers for a few models and see if they are the same.
Thanks man appreciate it
Welcome. :)
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome. :)
Great vid thanks
Dan, thanks for the great video. Do you have any thoughts on Stainless Steel Tilt Tubes? Do they resist corroding better?
There are a few parts I'm always amazed aren't stainless from the factory and the tilt tube is definitely one of them. I imagine it would be way better than mild steel.
Hey Stu! I attempted this repair on my 2004 Yamaha 90TLRC the other day, and the tube appears to be frozen/corroded into the transom bracket. Any suggestions on how to break it free without damaging anything? Thank you!
Any chance you have a link to purchase the title tube and bushings? I need to fix this and I have that exact motor!
I’m trying to remove a steering bracket on a 30 hp Yamaha late 80’s. Can’t find any videos on this. My first boat.
They are a little tricky to pull apart, but pretty similar on all ouboards. Here is a job on a small outboard ruclips.net/video/dJpw9IJ9H1U/видео.html
Dangar Marine thanks dangar. Very helpful video.
Awesome video but, I cannot get my steering cable through the tilt tube ,the angle is crazy,
I got the old one out by removing the motor.
Hi Dan, will you please do a video on replacing a stator on an outboard motor, and I have a question can a stator stop a motor from running even if all 3 spark plug wires have strong blue spark ?
Hi Karl. Any chance you have this problem? ruclips.net/video/eNPfuLXCgys/видео.html
Hey Stu, I'm getting ready to take on this project on a '78 Evinrude 70hp. Your videos are great and very helpful and great to watch!!(especially this one due to my upcoming project....lol) are all tilt rods the same size or are they motor specific? just wanna make sure I have the right one. Thanks again for all the great video's
Thanks mate, glad the videos are helping you. Tilt tubes are definitely of specific lengths for outboard models so make sure you get the right one for you.
Is there an O ring inside the tilt tube? I was cleaning mine out and an O ring came out. Trying to figure out where it's from? Thanks.
I've seen videos on outboards with "drilled" exhausts ,and i was wondering if you could do a video showing how ,and explaining how it works thank you in advance.
I've got a little boat that I got for free ,and your videos have given me inspiration to work on it. I'll document the process with videos ,and pics as i go on my channel. You're more than welcome to use anything i post on your channel.
P.S Greetings from America mate.
That would be a funny video to do. Are you hoping for more power or just a bit of extra noise?
Mainly just noise I love the sound of a Johnson 2-stroke ,but a little extra power wouldn't hurt my feelings XD
Everything I've found shows that I should get about 30 mph or so out of a 50 hp motor which is enough for me.
I've got a little 15 ft fiberglass tri-hull that is currently an empty shell, I'll be following your channel closely for ideas ,and how too's :)
Hi Dan my tube is rusted and frozen with rust allmost like welded to the aluminium, no way is it going to knock out,is it posible to cut through it and drill it out? Cheers Mike , North Coast
Yes, sometimes you definitely have to do that. There are bushings between the tube and the bracket so that gives you a little bit of a margin for error with your cutting and drilling.
Thanks Dan you are a great help to everyone, we all love your vids, Cheers
Great video. I have a different steering setup but would like to use the tilt tube I have and having watched this video I have a better understanding on how it works and how to do it, so thanks!
Quick question - my '97 Mercury 15hp that I just installed has a pivot lock lever just above the tilt tube so you can lock off the steering if you ever want to. The problem I am having is that even when that lock lever is wound right off as far as it goes (1/4 turn to the left), it's still hard to turn. Ideally I just want to remove that lever altogether so the motor turns freely. I just can't work out how to do that. Any ideas? My previous 9.9hp Mariner which is visually identical to my the Merc didn't have this lever and it turned very easily.
hi dan i love yr videos i was wondering if you can help me plz i have a 2005 mercury 90hp 2 stroke but i dont know which wires to use to switch the engine off can you plz help
From memory it is the wire with the black and yellow stripe that you need to ground to stop the motor on Mercs.
+Dangar Marine You are correct sir
Nice job mate... Everything went fairly smoothly..looks like you've done a few of those before. Is that the same Tohatsu you added the starter motor to last year ?
Markolav70 yeah
Yep, sure is.
Did I mention how good Tohatsus are ?
Are tilt tubes different sizes, my teleflex cable rod won't go through my mariner 25 tilt tube. Heavy duty cable and light duty must mean different rod thickness
Where do the nylon bushings go? Are the on the outside against the locknut or between the engine and transom bracket?
Disregard - I was able to find this on the schematics - for others info - the nylon bushings go between the engine mid-section and the transom bracket.
thanks for your videos are very instructive I would like to ask you a question, if you can put the trim tilt Assist system on the mercury 25 HP 4 stroke?
Hey Stu, can the tilt tube cause a creaking and groaning and bouncing tilt when going up and down? There plenty of fluid and no air in the system.
It can definitely creak and groan if it is starting to seize with corrosion and old grease.
The rod is completely stuck inside the tilt tube for us, any tips on getting it out?
Great Video. I'm trying to free up the steering on an old outboard that hasn't moved for a few years. The rod is close to fully out and it's locked solid. Any tips for freeing it up? No room to get a hammer on the end of it. Can't rotate it. Do I just cut it off and then drift out the remains and fit a new one?
Heat can really help soften the grease but if that doesn't work I would just remove it the way you suggest.
@@DangarMarine Cheers mate. Trying heat cycles now. Can't believe how stuck it is! 3 different metals all in close proximity and wet with seawater - what could possibly go wrong!
@@DangarMarine Hi Stu, Finally got it freed off. Heating/Cooling and some tapping with a hammer using a jig I made to get more clearance for the hammer! Couldn't believe how tight it was... Now trying to get the gearcase off. This motor is fighting me all the way!
Hey dangar marine random question how do u remove a tilt/steering tube off a 85hp johnson I have taken the steering rod out and managed to crack the nut on the tube but it seems both sides have large nuts that are inserted into hex nut serts how do u get them out to get the tube out is there something I'm mistaken doesn't seem like it would sure not be 2 hex nuts wedged into the hex nut serts how would u undo them are they threaded
Stu, is there any way to get both the nuts off of the old tilt tube? The nut on the cable side is free, but the nut on other side is stuck. When I try to turn the nut, the whole tilt tube turns. Any ideas? Thanks.
nice job .. i'll send you my picture soon looool
Cool, look forward to getting it. :)
Do all outboard motor have a thermostat i have a 1990 40hp mariner magnum and i cant find one on it
thank you so much buddy ! question where I can buy the tild tube any websites? thanks
Hi Dan ,yes I saw your video you mentioned my key pin was fine when I removed the fly wheel it was not broken couldn't have gotten firing at the plugs anyway if it was the pistons are moving when cranked so that means the shaft is turning . It trys to start when you frist turn the key but after that it just spends over. Do you think it could be that ignition coil or the stator acting up?
The spark plugs will still fire if that woodruff key is broken. The outboard in that video had good spark on all cylinders, just at the wrong time. Does your spark stop after a few rotations? If so, yes, it could be the exciter coil under the flywheel or the ignition coil.
Hi Stu, a quick question about a steering cable. If the cable is not attached to the steering wheel (fully free) and an outboard , can you just move the tube at the end on the cable freely? I am not sure if my cable is seized inside or it is just like that. In a shop they are all packed so I cannot check. Thanks.
Yes, they are easy to move by hand when they are new.
Thank you!
Love the video's Stu, I have learnt so much from you, keep up the great vids, one question though, do you do any work on engines such as the Volvo penta?
Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the vids. I do a very small amount of work of diesel engines for mates but nothing commercially, I'm far from an expert on them.
I'm not sure if this would go here, or your replacing the steering cable tutorial. Anyhow, I have recently replaced my steering cable (your video was very helpful) but the holding nut will not flush up against the nut on the tilt tube. There is probably a 1/2 inch to an inch of thread left on the tube. Is this normal? If not, what's the fix? TIA
Hi mate, it's not uncommon for it not to cover the whole thread. As long as it is all the way on and tight so it won't come off it should be fine. You can lose a little bit of turning circle tightness though.
Thanks for a fast reply. Keep the great work!
Hey... that starter looks familiar! Pretty sure you installed that on a previous vid!
Wouldn't surprise me!
Stu,
I have a '92 Evinrude 150hp.
The tilt tube is seized into the stern brackets. Also, the lower pivot pin for the trim/tilt assembly is seized into the unit (spins free in the stern brackets).
The only thing I haven't tried is heat. Is heating with a torch REALLY going to help? Thanks
Yes, heat makes a huge difference.
Dangar Marine
I will give it a shot! Thanks for the response
Dangar Marine
It worked! Question, should the tilt tube be a tight/press fit into the stern brackets? I'm trying to decide if I should keep honing the holes or if a tight fit is normal. Thanks!
Great video Stu! Ive watched it a bunch of times. I'm struggling with my 70hp Johnson on my Astro Pontoon. I think I'll just hang the engine in the air so I can get a swing on the old tube. Its really stuck! Any advice would be great.
Yes, lifting the entire motor up away from the transom can give you a lot more room depending on the transom design. Sometimes you need to try to break the tube up either using a long thin saw blade or by drilling it out but you need to be careful not to damage the outboard bracket of course.
Dangar Marine. Great idea. I just finished it up. I ended up heating the tube from the inside with a MAPP torch, then beat the heck out of it until it moved, then I sprayed it with WD40 and twisted the tube until I could feel a loose spot. 👍 Thanks again.
Thanks for the reply, i should have said bayliner boat with a force engine 125h 4 cyl 2 stroke.
Ah, gotcha. Force outboards are actually Mercury outboard so any Mercury dealer should be able to help you with parts.
Hey.. i have problem with my engine .. is tiltong right ok but other side only 50%
My motor seems to have some play in the tilt. I can wiggle it and thought this would fix my issue. Then i saw the bushing and pretty sure thats whats worn on mine... is that reasonable?
Yes, the bushing is most likely the problem.
Have a 98’ merc 25 2 stoke that is stiff to lift and lower, I assume it’s the tilt tube. I tried to grease it but the fittings won’t take any grease they seem plugged up.. would heat help liquify the grease or do you think it needs to be completely replaced?
Yes, you can try a bit of heat but be aware of the nylon bushings. If you get them too hot they can melt.
Hi Dan great video,
Just having a hard time chasing a support steering tube for 89 bayliner 125hp outboard. Any idea where to get one in sydney, otherwise I was thinking of converting it to hydraulic but I might still need the tube!!! Thanks
To be honest I didn't even know Bayliner made outboards, I'm not sure where you would get parts.
So, Evinrude block is still on the table? Any progress? BR. Tom
Just waiting on a few seals at the moment. Will get into next week when they arrive.
great clip stu, I have a yamaha 30am and the tilt is seized up solid I've undone the big nut but I can't budge the tilt tube :-( any ideas how to remove? thanks
Yes, they can get pretty jammed in there. Heat is really your only option - well, heat and a great big hammer. :)
i have a steering issue when i let go or steering wheel either running or not the steering shaft slides out causing it to turn not stuck but pushes out
Where did you get the tult tube? trying to find one for a 1977 johnson 70hp.
Local outboard dealer.
Nice vid
Thanks mate.
Any reason not to lube the inside of the tube? I would think that because of corrosion probability, a light coating would forestall corrosion somewhat longer. Yes?
Grease is a bit of a double edged sword with these steering tubes. Yes, it does help with corrosion, but too much grease inside that tube will start to make the steering stiff very fast.
I also did deck equipment.
How can I know wich tilt tube buy??
2 questions. 1. I have a ns50d 1994 Nissan. When I tilt up and down. It is very noisy. The tilt tube looks rusty. I can not find the grease nipples that grease the bushings? Any idea? 2nd is if I do need to replace the tube and bushing. Any idea where I can get one? There are a bunch on the market but which one fits is my question. Thanks
Not all outboards have the grease nipples on them unfortunately. You'll need to find your exact model of outboard on a website like marineengine.com to get the right tilt tube and matching bushings.
I have a 1982 Mercury 25 hp that has not been used in a couple of years. The tilt tube is corroded inside the tilt bracket so it will not tilt. One of the grease fittings was missing and I guess it didn't get greased. I tried hammering the tube out, but it is really froze and I am afraid of breaking the aluminum bracket. So I plan to cut the tube and drill the center out till it is thin enough to knock out. This is a tiller handle so I don't need a tube for steering. So I am thinking about buying a 7/8'' bolt with enough sleeve to go through both ends of the bracket with the threads past the bracket enough for a nut. I can cut it to size. Then get another grease fitting and grease it up. Thinking about doing this because it looks like this tube may no longer be available or is very expensive. What you think?
Can't see any reason why it wouldn't work on a tiller motor. There are some nylon bushings between the tube and the bracket though to stop metal or metal contact. You'll want to see if you can find those at least.
Just curious mate...with the reasonable probability of the commuter boats sinking at some stage during their long lives...I guess it's a more common occurrence when they are tied up on the mainland ?? or overnight at home on the island ? ...or both ?
On the island is definitely more common as it is much more exposed to the weather than mainland which has a bit of a harbour. If it is rainy and windy it doesn't take much for a boat to sit low in the water from the rain and then start to take waves over the side from the wind, particularly if a bilge pump fails, a battery goes flat or a float switch jams.
yeah ok..that makes sense. You need a 'mini'marina' over on the island
I had never heard of Tohatsu prior to finding your channel. Looked them up on Wikipedia.org and found out that they've been around since 1922 and they've tried their hand at more than just outboard motors. Back to the tilt tube though... In your personal opinion, how often would the steering link want re-lubrication? Once a year or more often (depending on how often the boat submerges... lol ) ?
Hi Stan. Tohatsu has been around for a very long time. They make all the Mercury and Evinrude outboards below about 15HP so there are more of them around than people realise. Good question about lubricating the steering. I don't lubricate mine much at all (once every year or two) and it is still very smooth despite living in salt water. Personally I have found that steering that gets lubricated too often starts to gum up with grease and get stiff. Of course if you remove the steering, clean all the old grease off then add new you can't go too wrong, but most people tend to just keep adding more and I think that just makes things worse.
Tohatsu are great reliable motors... Most Mercurys and Mariners up to 40 hp are actually Tohatsus re-badged
Any idea when Mercury got Tohatsu for their motors? Ditto for Evinrude (never knew that). Mostly I deal with OLD motors though... (user, not in business). '84 Evinrude 15 on my 13' aluminum Mirrocraft (big rowboat), and current project to get in the water, 1979 Evinrude 85 on a 16' Glastron fiberglass trihull.
My 1997 Merc 30 has 'TMC' inside the cowling 'Tohatsu Motor Corporation' I think mid to late nineties they switched over . I know 5 people with either tohatsu,mariner or mercury 30 HP and they are all identical apart from paint and decals.
I have a Evinrude V4 1974 85hp but it seems both ends of the tilt tube are locked into the brackets with recessed nuts , i was thinking maybe i have to spin the tube to to get the nuts out of each side but maybe there is some other way it has nuts locked into the outside brackets on each side , i honed out this tube maybe 2 years ago as it was beginning to stick on the steering but i have a spare motor that has what seems to be a brand new tube in it still with the plastic seal plugging the holes on either side so i was hoping i would be able to take out that one and put it in the working motor .. just cant find any info on how to remove the nuts that are locked into the brackets like yours in the video but its on both sides , got any tips , have you seen this ?
I have a 1975 Johnson 40hp (40EL75c) that im trying to put on a much more modern boat. 1997 Tracker pro 17'. On my outboard it's the clamp on type. Few questions: Can I change the complete swivel bracket so that the motor bolts to the transom instead of clamping to transom. I also don't have a tilt tube on this motor for my steering tube to run through. The boat has rotary pinion steering. Is they're an aftermarket steering bracket for the rear of my boat or front of motor?
I'd like to ad hydraulic or electric trim as well since I do not have trim on my motor.
I know I can buy an aftermarket trim plate but I was wondering if I could use a trim off another Johnson outboard. I see a few on eBay off bigger outboards but not clear if I can put them on the 40hp and what years the donor can be from. It does seem that it will be cheaper to buy the aftermarket trim kit but either way I'm left with how will I mount motor to trim plate since my engines bracket is the clamp on type.
Love your channel! I'm addicted and learn a lot. I hope you can help answer my questions.g
I can't say I've ever seen your model of outboard, no I'm not to sure about swapping parts over. There are a few brackets for attaching steering without a tilt tube, this page shows the options www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=711 With regards to bolting it on, is there any place you can safely drill through on the transom bracket if it doesn't already have bolt holes in it? Another thing that might help you with regards to installing parts from other motors is to jump on a parts side and look up both your motor and the donor motor and see if the parts share a part number or at least look very similar.