Love your videos, and real world results like this help to dispel a lot of myths. One thing worth mentioning is the chambers on GT40Ps have two distinct advantages over GT40 heads - they’re quite a bit smaller for a nice compression bump, and the revised plug location makes for a much more complete burn. GT40P heads were developed because the GT40s weren’t efficient enough to pass federal emission standards. Header choice isn’t as bad as many think either - MAC and BBK both make headers that fit, and 90 degree plug wires and heatproof boots can often fix the issue. One other thing - the factory springs need to be ditched immediately. They have no place in a modified engine that will turn more than 5k.
Just found you. Wow there is no substitute for your knowledge. You really help us guys who are hungry for horsepower but don't have the funds. THANK YOU!!!
Oh man you gotta compare Charlie's Cyl Head flow to the stock GT40, you got us hooked now. Just finished the video, thanks for doing Charlie's worked cyl heads.
I ported my e7 heads and left alot on the table , they flowed 190 at 400 lift and 197 at 500 lift all the way to 600 the exhaust flowed 160 at 600 lift with a pipe. Thank you for the video
I get the most enjoyment from making changes and seeing the improvement you hear people say all the time their early mustang or nova engine has 450 HP with all factory parts and when you put them on the dyno it's actually 250 to 300
@@Myvintageiron7512 450HP out of a 350ci engine takes some work...For entertainment purposes, I watched "Engine Masters" now those guys aren't builders, they are magazine editors, that slap things together, or has someone else do their building... But they had a 500hp SBC @6600 and 500hp @5800 BBC compared on the dyno....and they were demonstrating how "High Strung" the 370ci SBC was and How meaty and "street-able" the 454 BBC was... The budget was considerably HIGHER for the SBC...The BBC was mostly stock from the deck down...
Absolutely one of greatest videos i have a set GT -40 . I also have a new set of 1.94 and 1.60 valves and new springs . also i have done a lot of lite port work . l think i'll do some playing around with them . l was surprised with your port testing numbers . thanks for all the time and work you did . OH ur i'm almost 70 .
LOVE HOW YOU BREAK IT DOWN! I watched some of your other videos and they are so much more informational than many videos. This is my first build and ill be using gt40 heads. KEEP them coming!
Really appreciate all the time and work that you put into making these videos. As you can tell by the comments we all are very thankful for your dedication to put out great content made with great info. If I could by you a beer I would bud!
Thank you for doing this. I love nerding out about details like these It’s an eye opener. The P heads performed way better than I thought they would. This is great info for guys like me that are looking for cheap horsepower. Thank you very much.
This is the best series I've ever seen on this topic. REALLY helps cage my brain on the 351W roller block build I'm doing. Already have the P heads.....you're helping me select other components.
Thank you so very much. A friend of mine gave me a set of. Gt40p heads an shorty headers. I been trying to decide on if they were it for my 351w. This says yes absolutely. That so much information I have needed.
You had the flow rate of the GT40p at .500 at 67%. (196/138). Isn’t that 70.4% instead of 67% ? And I can’t over state how much I love this small block ford build series. This is great stuff!
I knew that the SBF Heads had ASTHMA... I didn't actually realize HOW BAD they really were!!! GT40 Heads may not be competition ready.... But a significant improvement for minimum cost. Totally SOLD!
Hi buddy. Thanks for all your insight. I’m looking to build a couple fords soon. A and 351 and a 460. I was looking at what heads to invest in. Now I have a bit more knowledge to reflect on. Have a great day and I’m a subscriber and am watching to see your next series
Great video. It’s been known that that regular GT40 heads flow just a little better than the P heads , just as you proved. But you also proved it’s such a small number you won’t actually feel the difference. The huge factor is that P heads are plentiful and you can still find many sets in a junkyard today. The regular GT40 head not so much. I know a 300-325 horsepower small block does not sound like much to most people. If it’s in a 3,000 lb Mustang though it makes a huge difference. Possible high 12 second car with reliable dependable power. Not to mention a whole lot fun lol. Can also add a 125 shot of nitrous if you wanted. Again great video sir.
Been looking for a set of GT40 or even the "P" heads around my area in Texas and junkyards are cleaned out of them . There are guys selling them used but they are wanting 500.00 a set for them not surfaced , checked for cracks or even cleaned . I'm still a ways from my engine build so I'll keep looking for a cheap set . Your videos help a lot to get good accurate information .
I have a real set of a lighting with egr ports and the big holes for the head bolts of a 351 W. Completely re done by Neo Mustangs with trick flow valve springs and all machine work done. Sitting in a box, lol!
really great content, thanks for making the difficult easier to digest, as it really is becoming obvious that the matching of components is the key to budget HP. "I would never put a .600 lift cam with this head" excellent information!!!!!Thanks!!! 1992 5.0 lx
Amazing series of videos and awesome timing, too! I just pulled a 351w from a '95 F-150. I figured it would be cool to have a carbureted hydraulic roller in my '84 Crown Victoria. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Thats a big difference between stock heads and the GT40's. I guess I can expect a huge difference when I go from my stock heads on my 69 351w (I know those heads are different than the 289 heads) to the AFR 220 cc I just purchased rated at 331 intake and 245 exhaust@ .600 lift. Rebuilding the entire engine with RPM airgap intake, 880 quick fuel, Crower solid roller cam, 408 stroker Scat crank etc. Edit, sorry I had to leave a moment, I had a customer come in. I sure appreciate this series on SBF.
Love your content. Super knowledgeable. But check your math on the air flow ratio on the GT40P heads. Should be 70% .500 not 67%. Keep up the good work. I'm planning a 5.0 transplant into a Ford Ranger. Choosing whether to go aftermarket head or GT40P is a lot easier now. You've even helped me choose a cam too. Thanks, Rob G
To get some perspective, I looked up a TFS twisted wedge 170 fast as cast SBF head. On the milder end of the aftermarket spectrum. They flow 257/187 at .500 lift. (72%) You’re right, the GT40P heads aren’t great but they are so much better than the 289 heads. And the TFS heads are gonna run about $1500. Thanks a lot. Great content.
I have yet to try some Explorer GT40 heads. I have used early, pre66, heads but always did a full port, big valve and chamber job. These early heads are much easier to port because of not having the air injector bumps in the exhaust. These castings are almost never cracked but are OLD and hard to find. Explorer GT40 heads will need dedicated headers. Learn to port the new GT40 head!
Great series on the 289, heads, 5.0 differences, roller cams and how to build one. I was just wondering if you are going to do a dyno run up video on this engine? That would be interesting to see and serve as like a final chapter in this build.
Great video. I kinda wana take the gt40 heads I just ported for my neighbor and see what they flow. I didn’t fully port them I just cleaned up the intake and gasket matched the exhaust ports which opened those exhaust parts a lot they are tiny straight from Ford.
OUTSTANDING. NEW SUBSCRIBER FOOREVER. BEST VIDEO EVER. IM BUYING ME SOME GT40P HEADS AND STRAPING THEM ON MY 63 FAIR 260 WITH SOME BRAND NEW SEAT BELTS AND A DAIPER!!!!!!!!
Thanks good vid,not that i am into 289s but am thinking of a Dart Blocked 363 trying decide weather to go AFR heads or a Cleveland style 3v head. I have a lot of Clevelands that have made awesome hp with the 3v chi head,love to see you do a Cleveland
I'm enjoying these Ford comparison's, I don't know if you have a engine dyno or not but if you do I would like to see the difference in power on the exact same motor between a roller cam and a flat tappet that has the same lift duration etc. I've always been curious about it and there's no videos showing the true difference between them, only that you can make more with the roller but I want to know how much more with the same setup 👍🏽 it would be a killer video and would probably go viral 😁👍🏽
I really like all your videos. The camshaft selection videos were excellent! I gravitate towards Fords so this 289 series and the FE stroker you built were tops! That being said, is there any chance of a Ford flathead series at some point? I don't know if that's something you mess with at all. Thank you for what do here, it's a big deal.
Would you be able to do a build or a head port/polish build on a Ford 300 straight 6? Your videos are very educational and I've learned quite a lot from them. Thank you for sharing and showing us what many engine builders and teachers don't show us
Well, that settles it, my 351 Bronco is getting GT40 heads as soon as I have a couple hundo kicking around... but then again I'll also want a cam, and an intake, and long tube headers. Hopefully I'll win the lottery soon.
Myvintageiron, I’d agree with you that GT40 heads with the larger valves would make likely 25-30hp more but, curious or your opinion that if they were also ported, chambers massaged and used in that config they’d likely make 30-65hp maybe more. Obviously, a good cam spec’ed specifically for the particular flow of the heads, matched with good intake likely a ported upper & lower GT40 Cobra intake manifold, larger 70mm throttle body & EGR spacer, and maybe 1-5/8” or 1-7/8” headers likely 3.5 collectors and 2.5 dual exhaust. Likely, that would be in the 400-475HP range with better than stock ignition & fuel injectors, this would all be lowered by 20-22% with drivetrain loss factored in the mix. This would still be a nice cruiser with good reliable power for Fox body, Grand Marquis, F150 and even a F250 for light towing.
You wont even be close to 400 my friend, sorry. Not even at the flywheel. Rule of thumb, you can make about 1 hp for every 2 cfm of flow from the heads. Divide that by the 68% percent of flow for realistic numbers. So your motor might get close to 300 with the best conditions and tuning for your motor. So from a 5.0ho that makes about 240 on the dyno, you'll be up around 280-290hp.
@@jasonhooey5677 I respect your opinion but, the math and actual Dyno results I’ve seen confirm what I stated and are verifiable in a easily repeatable manner. Keep in mind 400-475HP being a range achieved at best, though still plausible other factors can diminish HP and surpass HP.
@@80sfordguy you're right buti think wrote it backwards. Not "1hp/2cfm"... (that would mean the 289 was a 50hp engine). i think you meant 2hp / 1 cfm then divide by exhaust %.
@@johnb7430 I didn’t write that part, that was something Jason Hooey commented unless I’m unclear on your comment. Besides, personally the math that myvintageiron talks about in this video and in previous videos of his are true and were taught to me while attending WyoTech Automotive Institute of Technology (“WyoTech” for short). The math is widely used in the professional racing world as well as small engine building & machine shops as general practice when building and engine for a specific power rating, torque output or application. It’s incredibly factual, usually within 5% or less Accuracy and very repeatable as long as other factors aren’t introduced. Induction, ignition, fuel, exhaust, cooling and lubrication can all change an engines mathematical output if over or under designed, mistakes are made when the build is done or the build of the vehicle hinders the engines designed performance. Like myvintageiron said in the video, the math is good but other factors can largely effect the performance if mistakes are made or flaws are in the other factors that hinder the engines output.
G'day bud, very interesting video. While I was watching it, I was thinking about the 411Hp and the 407Hp to both heads and the 1% difference between them. Although I didn't get the same answer as yourself, I figured that the 1% difference=4Hp. How I arrived at my answer before you did the maths was 275Hp=279-(411-407) ... Cheers for the video bud :-)
Back in mid/late 90s then early 2000s was messing around 302s what i learned was ditch any iron head and get a nice set of aluminum. Worth every additional $. I started with E7s ported with 1.94x1.6 then went TW wow what a difference.
Great information. I'm here as one seeking out enough knowledge to be able to talk a bit with a potential engine builder. This really, really helps. From camshaft selection to head work, to that 289 build series, I am way closer to asking better questions but also expecting no BS answers. Having said all that, do you or does anyone reading the posts and watching these vids recommend an engine builder in the Richmond VA area? Or just Virginia? Original Ford 289 in a 68 Mustang. It's running, and I expect it has had work done given what I could see and hear. (Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock intake, stock heads).
Top quality content. Thanks for sharing it, knowledge is power! One question: Is it preferred to replace the camshaft instead of rocker arms of higher ratio for getting more lift? What are the disadvantages for putting in, let's say, 1.7 ratio rocker arms and keep the stock camshaft.
Thanks so much mate. I’m in Australia and not that mechanically minded but learning so much. I have a 302w in a 69 Fairmont and it went bang last week. It still runs but has a bad knock. We haven’t pulled it apart yet but really think what ever is wrong I will be doing this change anyway. The car is all original so want to keep it more or less the same but don’t mind the extra HP. What size cam would you recommend. I’m a street/strip guy lol lol lol. I was happy with the power before it went bang but did want I nicer note to the engine so don’t mind a Lumpy cam. I’m guessing from watching your vids on this build so far that a high 400 or low 500 is best. Thanks heaps and great vids now onto the next vid in this build
Great videos, loving it so far, thanks a lot for sharing your knoledge on this. I have perhaps a silly question, wouldn’t the in/ex ratio be better using a 1.94/1.6 valves ? Does it make sense to go into that direction? All the best to you and your familly. Warm regards from Brazil.
This covers the question I asked on an earlier video, will it make 300hp? The answer is that the potential is there. In a 2000 to 2500 pound car it will be a screamer.
I put the gt40 heads on my 351w f150.I had a valve job done and milled down flat.Upgrade on the springs with a .456 lift cam.I have $500 in the heads for every thing. With the dual plane intake and headers that are 1.5/8 plus removing all pollution control the truck has to have 75 more horsepower.Way cheaper than aluminum heads with a $1500 price tag.It even beat a 6 cylinder Mustang that had mods in a quarter mile Bristol street fight event.
A friend of mine has a few sets of the early small chamber 289 heads, and he swears up and down that he's going to put in big valves (1.94/1.60) and "port the hell out of em" and build an all motor combo that will rev to 10,000+ RPMs and beat most big blocks!! LOL It's nice to have dreams you can aspire to!!
Great info once again. i am going to build a 350 chev soon for and airboat. what would you say that would be a good build for a motor. that only turns and prop, that will run well ?.Thanks and for the great videos.
What im learning from building my sbf and watching these videos is as follows. Don't bother spending time porting or back cutting or anything with stock heads, just make sure the valves seal. The flow percentage between the intake and exhaust ports is so bad it will never really be good. Just enjoy what it is as it is. Or spend the money for heads that flow much closer on intake and exhaust with both a higher total cfm and flow percentage
Actually, porting the pocket under the valve, shaping the guide boss, smoothing the short side radius and back cutting the valve will take a stock 289/302 head up to gt40 range. (Or better if you know your stuff). If LABOR is free and you have spare time, it's VERY worth it. BUT slapping on a set of gt40 heads... boom done.
Great info once again! I want to build another 302 but I’m not sure if I want to use a turbo or supercharger. Could you show or explain how to build a suitable bottom end for each? Which compression is better for a stock engine or one with a turbo or supercharger? I’m guessing each has to be specific. Thanks!
351w Clevor, sounds really interesting. What are your thoughts of 351Clevor all iron, factory iron 2bbl heads ported. It's probably really obvious I have a good supply of old cores, but I'm building on a very low budget. Other than surfacing, the port and valve work costs only my time.
Would adding runner lumps like GM guys do to mimic double hump heads help? Or did the runner cleanup with a grinder shown in a prior episode accomplish more?
Love your videos, and real world results like this help to dispel a lot of myths. One thing worth mentioning is the chambers on GT40Ps have two distinct advantages over GT40 heads - they’re quite a bit smaller for a nice compression bump, and the revised plug location makes for a much more complete burn. GT40P heads were developed because the GT40s weren’t efficient enough to pass federal emission standards. Header choice isn’t as bad as many think either - MAC and BBK both make headers that fit, and 90 degree plug wires and heatproof boots can often fix the issue.
One other thing - the factory springs need to be ditched immediately. They have no place in a modified engine that will turn more than 5k.
You do one heck of a job in explaining this to a layman like me. I could follow everything you were explaining. Excellent video.
Keep in mind, This dude instructs kids right out of high school... Yep. Great instructor.
Glad it helped
Thats why the Almighty B-cam and GT-40 3 bar heads make a nice street combo💯
Sh!t's getting serious, the whiteboard came out! Great content!
I really want to see this engine on the dyno now.
Just found you. Wow there is no substitute for your knowledge. You really help us guys who are hungry for horsepower but don't have the funds. THANK YOU!!!
Welcome aboard!
Oh man you gotta compare Charlie's Cyl Head flow to the stock GT40, you got us hooked now. Just finished the video, thanks for doing Charlie's worked cyl heads.
I ported my e7 heads and left alot on the table , they flowed 190 at 400 lift and 197 at 500 lift all the way to 600 the exhaust flowed 160 at 600 lift with a pipe. Thank you for the video
Some times I don't think people realize how much fun is to be had with a 300 or 400hp engine.
I get the most enjoyment from making changes and seeing the improvement you hear people say all the time their early mustang or nova engine has 450 HP with all factory parts and when you put them on the dyno it's actually 250 to
300
Much rather have a 350 to the tire daily driver than a racecar.. been there done that with race cars.. not worth it anymore to me
@@Myvintageiron7512 450HP out of a 350ci engine takes some work...For entertainment purposes, I watched "Engine Masters" now those guys aren't builders, they are magazine editors, that slap things together, or has someone else do their building... But they had a 500hp SBC @6600 and 500hp @5800 BBC compared on the dyno....and they were demonstrating how "High Strung" the 370ci SBC was and How meaty and "street-able" the 454 BBC was... The budget was considerably HIGHER for the SBC...The BBC was mostly stock from the deck down...
Finally something other than an LS build.
Great info without the hypw. Thank you testing these different heads!
You bet!
I'm taking lots of notes and learning. Thank you sir!
Very welcome
Excellent series of videos. Best I've seen yet out of hundreds if not thousands of videos. Your content is worth paying for.
Wow, thank you!
Damn !! This is the best series of videos I have seen. Thanks you so much !!
Absolutely one of greatest videos i have a set GT -40 . I also have a new set of 1.94 and 1.60 valves and new springs . also i have done a lot of lite port work . l think i'll do some playing around with them . l was surprised with your port testing numbers . thanks for all the time and work you did . OH ur i'm almost 70 .
Love your videos. Really have learned alot from them. If possible could you do a flow test on a set of 4V Cleveland closed chamber heads thanks! 👍🍻
Your channel has the best compressible information on the interweb! Keep it coming brother!
Thank You for this brilliant video series.
SO glad you did a SBF build. Great job!
Loved the SBF series, keep em coming, many thanks
Nice job, that build can be a 300hp reliable one for sure.
Don't underestimate it
LOVE HOW YOU BREAK IT DOWN! I watched some of your other videos and they are so much more informational than many videos. This is my first build and ill be using gt40 heads. KEEP them coming!
Really appreciate all the time and work that you put into making these videos. As you can tell by the comments we all are very thankful for your dedication to put out great content made with great info. If I could by you a beer I would bud!
Thank you for doing this. I love nerding out about details like these It’s an eye opener. The P heads performed way better than I thought they would. This is great info for guys like me that are looking for cheap horsepower. Thank you very much.
This is the best series I've ever seen on this topic. REALLY helps cage my brain on the 351W roller block build I'm doing. Already have the P heads.....you're helping me select other components.
Amazing info!! Really starting to get a better understanding of the way heads & cams work thanks to your videos.
I’m a much bigger fan of the early gt40 heads with some port work and slightly larger valves. Thanks for the flow bench stuff.
Yes, thanks for flow testing Charlie's heads. I really appreciate you and your videos.
I love your videos - you are so technically knowledgeable and helpful == Steve Ottawa Ontario Canada
Glad you like them!
This THE MAN! He KNOWS! Thanks
Great job, you make it so easy to understand unlike so many others. you have my subscription !
Very nice flow bench......much better than the one that I made for myself.....I'm a bit envious! Good upload.
I've got two soon to be going, two 4.0l jeep rebuilds. you videos helping. Mostly stuff I was doing wrong on previous builds 351w, 300 ford, 289...
Thanks again for more fantastic info Mate, this is really good stuff! Can’t wait to see the next ones.
More to come!
This is your calling sir! It's like the man upstairs wants you to 'preach the words of mechanics!' Lol awesome 👍
Thanks for making all these vids. Lovin the shirt💪
Thank you so very much. A friend of mine gave me a set of. Gt40p heads an shorty headers. I been trying to decide on if they were it for my 351w. This says yes absolutely. That so much information I have needed.
you should compare the GT40 to a stock E7TE head to show the difference for the people that pick up an old Mustang 5.0 engine
Awesome vids, great info. Thx for all the hard work. I new the gt40 was an up grade but now I have the numbers for myself and for my tuner.
Glad to help
Thank you for sharing this, much love from Brazil, god bless you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You had the flow rate of the GT40p at .500 at 67%. (196/138). Isn’t that 70.4% instead of 67% ? And I can’t over state how much I love this small block ford build series. This is great stuff!
I was going to comment the same, you are correct
Awesome info!!! Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us. These videos are priceless for us backyard engine builders.
You bet!
I knew that the SBF Heads had ASTHMA...
I didn't actually realize HOW BAD they really were!!!
GT40 Heads may not be competition ready.... But a significant improvement for minimum cost.
Totally SOLD!
Been a viewer since the beginning. I’m glad you’ve always kept pushing your videos out.
I appreciate that!
Nice video... with great info on sbf heads, really enjoyed this video
Glad you enjoyed!
Hi buddy. Thanks for all your insight. I’m looking to build a couple fords soon. A and 351 and a 460. I was looking at what heads to invest in. Now I have a bit more knowledge to reflect on. Have a great day and I’m a subscriber and am watching to see your next series
Subscribed. Great info! I just started my first sbf project... 302 Mustang HO with gt40 heads/ T5 into fox body Zephyr. 👍
Right on!
Its too bad they didn't have all these head options back in the 70's. Enjoyed this video. Thank you sir.
Great video. It’s been known that that regular GT40 heads flow just a little better than the P heads , just as you proved. But you also proved it’s such a small number you won’t actually feel the difference. The huge factor is that P heads are plentiful and you can still find many sets in a junkyard today. The regular GT40 head not so much. I know a 300-325 horsepower small block does not sound like much to most people. If it’s in a 3,000 lb Mustang though it makes a huge difference. Possible high 12 second car with reliable dependable power. Not to mention a whole lot fun lol. Can also add a 125 shot of nitrous if you wanted. Again great video sir.
Another wow video. Thanks man!
Great job!!! That’s awesome information
Glad it was helpful!
Loving this content!
Been looking for a set of GT40 or even the "P" heads around my area in Texas and junkyards are cleaned out of them . There are guys selling them used but they are wanting 500.00 a set for them not surfaced , checked for cracks or even cleaned . I'm still a ways from my engine build so I'll keep looking for a cheap set . Your videos help a lot to get good accurate information .
I have a real set of a lighting with egr ports and the big holes for the head bolts of a 351 W. Completely re done by Neo Mustangs with trick flow valve springs and all machine work done. Sitting in a box, lol!
Great video. Keep em coming👍
Would love to see 351 Cleveland or cobra jet build as that is a pretty mild motor. IMO better than the Windsor
really great content, thanks for making the difficult easier to digest, as it really is becoming obvious that the matching of components is the key to budget HP. "I would never put a .600 lift cam with this head" excellent information!!!!!Thanks!!! 1992 5.0 lx
Glad it was helpful!
@@Myvintageiron7512 where are you located
Interesting video. Thanks 👍
Excellent comparison!
I think a set of AFRs or similar could be in my future.....I was on a strict low-budget 24 years ago....lol. 👍
Well said!
Amazing series of videos and awesome timing, too! I just pulled a 351w from a '95 F-150. I figured it would be cool to have a carbureted hydraulic roller in my '84 Crown Victoria. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Very cool!
The 351s were some times roller blocks with non roller lifters
Are you gonna be doing the gt40p heads on the 289
@@kevinjohnson9372 This one is a full roller but weren't all 351's roller by 1995?
@@bradnimbus4836 the 95 Lightning still used flat tappets but all others where Roller in 95 & 96
Thats a big difference between stock heads and the GT40's. I guess I can expect a huge difference when I go from my stock heads on my 69 351w (I know those heads are different than the 289 heads) to the AFR 220 cc I just purchased rated at 331 intake and 245 exhaust@ .600 lift. Rebuilding the entire engine with RPM airgap intake, 880 quick fuel, Crower solid roller cam, 408 stroker Scat crank etc. Edit, sorry I had to leave a moment, I had a customer come in. I sure appreciate this series on SBF.
Love your content. Super knowledgeable. But check your math on the air flow ratio on the GT40P heads. Should be 70% .500 not 67%. Keep up the good work. I'm planning a 5.0 transplant into a Ford Ranger. Choosing whether to go aftermarket head or GT40P is a lot easier now. You've even helped me choose a cam too. Thanks, Rob G
To get some perspective, I looked up a TFS twisted wedge 170 fast as cast SBF head. On the milder end of the aftermarket spectrum. They flow 257/187 at .500 lift. (72%) You’re right, the GT40P heads aren’t great but they are so much better than the 289 heads. And the TFS heads are gonna run about $1500. Thanks a lot. Great content.
It might be dumb but I plan on buying trick flow as cast heads for my f150 5.0. The flow numbers are outstanding + weight saving.
Very nice.
I have yet to try some Explorer GT40 heads. I have used early, pre66, heads but always did a full port, big valve and chamber job. These early heads are much easier to port because of not having the air injector bumps in the exhaust. These castings are almost never cracked but are OLD and hard to find. Explorer GT40 heads will need dedicated headers. Learn to port the new GT40 head!
Great series on the 289, heads, 5.0 differences, roller cams and how to build one. I was just wondering if you are going to do a dyno run up video on this engine? That would be interesting to see and serve as like a final chapter in this build.
AWESOME JOB!!!! THANKS!
Glad you liked it!
Great Video my iron,,,I’m thinking GT 40 with bigger exe valves...and a match port
Nice work! But it just proved what I already suspected that a good AFR head or trick flow and make a much more enjoyable motor.
Great video. I kinda wana take the gt40 heads I just ported for my neighbor and see what they flow. I didn’t fully port them I just cleaned up the intake and gasket matched the exhaust ports which opened those exhaust parts a lot they are tiny straight from Ford.
OUTSTANDING. NEW SUBSCRIBER FOOREVER. BEST VIDEO EVER. IM BUYING ME SOME GT40P HEADS AND STRAPING THEM ON MY 63 FAIR 260 WITH SOME BRAND NEW SEAT BELTS AND A DAIPER!!!!!!!!
Thanks good vid,not that i am into 289s but am thinking of a Dart Blocked 363 trying decide weather to go AFR heads or a Cleveland style 3v head. I have a lot of Clevelands that have made awesome hp with the 3v chi head,love to see you do a Cleveland
I'm enjoying these Ford comparison's, I don't know if you have a engine dyno or not but if you do I would like to see the difference in power on the exact same motor between a roller cam and a flat tappet that has the same lift duration etc. I've always been curious about it and there's no videos showing the true difference between them, only that you can make more with the roller but I want to know how much more with the same setup 👍🏽 it would be a killer video and would probably go viral 😁👍🏽
I really like all your videos. The camshaft selection videos were excellent! I gravitate towards Fords so this 289 series and the FE stroker you built were tops! That being said, is there any chance of a Ford flathead series at some point? I don't know if that's something you mess with at all. Thank you for what do here, it's a big deal.
Would you be able to do a build or a head port/polish build on a Ford 300 straight 6? Your videos are very educational and I've learned quite a lot from them. Thank you for sharing and showing us what many engine builders and teachers don't show us
Well, that settles it, my 351 Bronco is getting GT40 heads as soon as I have a couple hundo kicking around...
but then again I'll also want a cam, and an intake, and long tube headers. Hopefully I'll win the lottery soon.
351w efi intakes are dumb exspencive.
Nice job thanks
You bet
Myvintageiron, I’d agree with you that GT40 heads with the larger valves would make likely 25-30hp more but, curious or your opinion that if they were also ported, chambers massaged and used in that config they’d likely make 30-65hp maybe more.
Obviously, a good cam spec’ed specifically for the particular flow of the heads, matched with good intake likely a ported upper & lower GT40 Cobra intake manifold, larger 70mm throttle body & EGR spacer, and maybe 1-5/8” or 1-7/8” headers likely 3.5 collectors and 2.5 dual exhaust.
Likely, that would be in the 400-475HP range with better than stock ignition & fuel injectors, this would all be lowered by 20-22% with drivetrain loss factored in the mix. This would still be a nice cruiser with good reliable power for Fox body, Grand Marquis, F150 and even a F250 for light towing.
You wont even be close to 400 my friend, sorry. Not even at the flywheel. Rule of thumb, you can make about 1 hp for every 2 cfm of flow from the heads. Divide that by the 68% percent of flow for realistic numbers. So your motor might get close to 300 with the best conditions and tuning for your motor. So from a 5.0ho that makes about 240 on the dyno, you'll be up around 280-290hp.
You really just need to watch the last 10 min of this video a few times
@@jasonhooey5677 I respect your opinion but, the math and actual Dyno results I’ve seen confirm what I stated and are verifiable in a easily repeatable manner. Keep in mind 400-475HP being a range achieved at best, though still plausible other factors can diminish HP and surpass HP.
@@80sfordguy you're right buti think wrote it backwards. Not "1hp/2cfm"... (that would mean the 289 was a 50hp engine). i think you meant 2hp / 1 cfm then divide by exhaust %.
@@johnb7430 I didn’t write that part, that was something Jason Hooey commented unless I’m unclear on your comment. Besides, personally the math that myvintageiron talks about in this video and in previous videos of his are true and were taught to me while attending WyoTech Automotive Institute of Technology (“WyoTech” for short). The math is widely used in the professional racing world as well as small engine building & machine shops as general practice when building and engine for a specific power rating, torque output or application.
It’s incredibly factual, usually within 5% or less Accuracy and very repeatable as long as other factors aren’t introduced. Induction, ignition, fuel, exhaust, cooling and lubrication can all change an engines mathematical output if over or under designed, mistakes are made when the build is done or the build of the vehicle hinders the engines designed performance. Like myvintageiron said in the video, the math is good but other factors can largely effect the performance if mistakes are made or flaws are in the other factors that hinder the engines output.
G'day bud, very interesting video. While I was watching it, I was thinking about the 411Hp and the 407Hp to both heads and the 1% difference between them. Although I didn't get the same answer as yourself, I figured that the 1% difference=4Hp. How I arrived at my answer before you did the maths was 275Hp=279-(411-407) ... Cheers for the video bud :-)
Back in mid/late 90s then early 2000s was messing around 302s what i learned was ditch any iron head and get a nice set of aluminum. Worth every additional $. I started with E7s ported with 1.94x1.6 then went TW wow what a difference.
Yep the E7 heads are just like most of the factory ford heads they have very poor flow
Great information. I'm here as one seeking out enough knowledge to be able to talk a bit with a potential engine builder. This really, really helps. From camshaft selection to head work, to that 289 build series, I am way closer to asking better questions but also expecting no BS answers. Having said all that, do you or does anyone reading the posts and watching these vids recommend an engine builder in the Richmond VA area? Or just Virginia? Original Ford 289 in a 68 Mustang. It's running, and I expect it has had work done given what I could see and hear. (Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock intake, stock heads).
Top quality content. Thanks for sharing it, knowledge is power! One question: Is it preferred to replace the camshaft instead of rocker arms of higher ratio for getting more lift? What are the disadvantages for putting in, let's say, 1.7 ratio rocker arms and keep the stock camshaft.
Thanks so much mate. I’m in Australia and not that mechanically minded but learning so much. I have a 302w in a 69 Fairmont and it went bang last week. It still runs but has a bad knock. We haven’t pulled it apart yet but really think what ever is wrong I will be doing this change anyway. The car is all original so want to keep it more or less the same but don’t mind the extra HP. What size cam would you recommend. I’m a street/strip guy lol lol lol. I was happy with the power before it went bang but did want I nicer note to the engine so don’t mind a Lumpy cam. I’m guessing from watching your vids on this build so far that a high 400 or low 500 is best.
Thanks heaps and great vids now onto the next vid in this build
Great videos, loving it so far, thanks a lot for sharing your knoledge on this. I have perhaps a silly question, wouldn’t the in/ex ratio be better using a 1.94/1.6 valves ? Does it make sense to go into that direction? All the best to you and your familly. Warm regards from Brazil.
Nice little engine!
Indeed!
My first car was a 66 Mustang 289 2bbl and it was rated at a whopping 200 horsepower the 4bbl was rated at 225 and the Hi-Po was rated at 271
This covers the question I asked on an earlier video, will it make 300hp? The answer is that the potential is there. In a 2000 to 2500 pound car it will be a screamer.
I put the gt40 heads on my 351w f150.I had a valve job done and milled down flat.Upgrade on the springs with a .456 lift cam.I have $500 in the heads for every thing.
With the dual plane intake and headers that are 1.5/8 plus removing all pollution control the truck has to have 75 more horsepower.Way cheaper than aluminum heads with a $1500 price tag.It even beat a 6 cylinder Mustang that had mods in a quarter mile Bristol street fight event.
By the way I appreciate your videos
I guess I should have waited until in of video, Great video anyway.😁
A friend of mine has a few sets of the early small chamber 289 heads, and he swears up and down that he's going to put in big valves (1.94/1.60) and "port the hell out of em" and build an all motor combo that will rev to 10,000+ RPMs and beat most big blocks!! LOL
It's nice to have dreams you can aspire to!!
Great info once again. i am going to build a 350 chev soon for and airboat. what would you say that would be a good build for a motor. that only turns and prop, that will run well ?.Thanks and for the great videos.
This is alsome thanks for the info how is the s10 treating you
Your shirt should say The Man not staff lol Great video. Do you happen to know what your modified sbc vortec heads flow compared to stock. Thanks
What im learning from building my sbf and watching these videos is as follows.
Don't bother spending time porting or back cutting or anything with stock heads, just make sure the valves seal. The flow percentage between the intake and exhaust ports is so bad it will never really be good. Just enjoy what it is as it is.
Or spend the money for heads that flow much closer on intake and exhaust with both a higher total cfm and flow percentage
Actually, porting the pocket under the valve, shaping the guide boss, smoothing the short side radius and back cutting the valve will take a stock 289/302 head up to gt40 range. (Or better if you know your stuff). If LABOR is free and you have spare time, it's VERY worth it.
BUT slapping on a set of gt40 heads... boom done.
I wouldn't mind getting a set of those gt40p heads you've done
Can't wait to see part 6...
Great info once again!
I want to build another 302 but I’m not sure if I want to use a turbo or supercharger. Could you show or explain how to build a suitable bottom end for each? Which compression is better for a stock engine or one with a turbo or supercharger? I’m guessing each has to be specific.
Thanks!
Perhaps a 351w fits the bill better.
351w Clevor, sounds really interesting. What are your thoughts of 351Clevor all iron, factory iron 2bbl heads ported. It's probably really obvious I have a good supply of old cores, but I'm building on a very low budget. Other than surfacing, the port and valve work costs only my time.
Would adding runner lumps like GM guys do to mimic double hump heads help? Or did the runner cleanup with a grinder shown in a prior episode accomplish more?
I'm up to rebuilding a roller cam 5.OH, already have the short block core. Now for the heads.