If you found this video helpfull and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
i find in interesting how cars in different countries are different. These are B7 brakes and calipers.. B8/ 8.5 front brakes in N/A cars are completely different. great diy for B7 though 😉
Couple of extra hints I missed: Make sure to undo the hub of rust before greasing it with copper grease. Also check the rubber seal of the calliper piston for any tears as this will let water in and the rust will seize the piston.
Watching from East London South Africa Love you work recently did my service for the first time using your videos.. I did frony brake change and will be doing rear now stil using your videos. I am stalling the next brake change as I have noticed clunking sound coming from the front.. This was after I change the brake pads as shown in the video. Any pointers on what I should be looking at please and thank you.
If you are getting a clunk, you need to make sure every bolt is fully torqued and dont wait, do it before you drive it. I can only think that if a new clunk has developed there is something loose and you dont want it coming apart. Make sure you didnt leave any tools under the car and I assume the pads were a good fit and are seated properly?
Thank you for absolute great videos , Please can you tell me what type of socket i need for removing the 2 bolts because when i removed the wheel i thought great now i can use my ratchet and a socket to remove the 2 bolts but to my dismay the sockets i have is the type that go over a bolt and ton a drive socket that goes inside the bolt head so i noticed in your video when you were going to remove the bolts you had a drive type socket that went into the bolt head so i need to know what is the correct size and name and type that you were using to remove the bolts , are they called caliper sliding pins and is it a spline socket and if so what is the correct size as i have a 1/2" drive on my ratchet . thanks very much oh can i get them on amazon i am in scotland so i will order them online . cheers
Glad you found the video use full and if you are going to work on your car often, I would highly recommend you get a set of Torx bits and Allen bits. Its a torx45 on my car. A Torx bit is similar to an allen key bit but has convex edges and in my experience, lots of mixing and matching takes place and what will be a Torx on one car will be an Allen bit on another so its good to have a set to pick from. You will get them on Amazon for about £10 per set.
Hi I have a metallic rattle over bumps that goes away when brakes are applied. New brembo discs,pads and sliders. New drop links and top control arms, still metallic rattle driving me mad any ideas please?
First thing I would check are the dust shields behind the discs. The steel bolts cause galvanic corrosion on the back plates and eventually they rattle like mad. I binned the rears on my car as they were both rattling. Hopefully that fixes it.
@@AstonishingGlasgow hi and thanks for the reply however they are both new. Please bear in mind when the brakes are applied the noise goes away. The only thing I can think of is the pads rattling in the carrier but on inspection when stationary everything seems solid. It’s driving me crazy!!
Love your B8 series mate! I look forward to doing my alternator pulley and ruining my hands. Any chance you've done a coolant flush without the Audi charge unit? Any pointers if so??
Thanks. The brown cream is copper grease. It stops the two metal surfaces from rusting together when used on the hub and stops the brakes squealing when a little is applied to the back of the pad.
Hey - how do I reset my Audi brake pad sensors after changing FRONT rotors and pads? Don’t I have to activate the brake pads so the car knows that they are much thicker than the old pads? Can I do this without a scan tool?
Front brakes do not require any digital reset. Press in the pistons to fit the pads, reassemble and away you go. Just remember they will need to bed in a little so go easy (no hard braking if you can avoid it) for the few miles.
You are thinking of the back brakes. The rear calipers have motors for the electronic parking brake that need rewound electrically but there are ways of doing this as well without vagcom.
Cheers J J. I splurged out and bought Ferodo discs as well. What I edited out of the video was the pair of discs that were the wrong ones. Went back to the supplier and they corrected their mistake thankfully as I bought them 2 months ago.
![How to change front brake discs / brake rotors on Audi A4 B8 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CYlwi0NQ54A/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change front brake discs / brake rotors on Audi A4 B8 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
If you found this video helpfull and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
Great content, great editing.
Followed ur stuff for ages mate great content
Cheers Ryan.
Awesome video. Just about to do mine now. Very funny that you cloned yourself to help out!! 🤣🤣
i find in interesting how cars in different countries are different. These are B7 brakes and calipers.. B8/ 8.5 front brakes in N/A cars are completely different. great diy for B7 though 😉
I thought this was B8 no??
This is a B8 I have same car and B7 don't have them types of wing mirrors
Couple of extra hints I missed: Make sure to undo the hub of rust before greasing it with copper grease. Also check the rubber seal of the calliper piston for any tears as this will let water in and the rust will seize the piston.
Watching from East London South Africa Love you work recently did my service for the first time using your videos.. I did frony brake change and will be doing rear now stil using your videos. I am stalling the next brake change as I have noticed clunking sound coming from the front.. This was after I change the brake pads as shown in the video. Any pointers on what I should be looking at please and thank you.
If you are getting a clunk, you need to make sure every bolt is fully torqued and dont wait, do it before you drive it. I can only think that if a new clunk has developed there is something loose and you dont want it coming apart.
Make sure you didnt leave any tools under the car and I assume the pads were a good fit and are seated properly?
@@AstonishingGlasgow sorted the noise the caliper bolts torqued. THANK U..
Thanks for surely ua thing very simple to understand woth even haven't to explain brilliant work keep it up 👍
Thank you for absolute great videos , Please can you tell me what type of socket i need for removing the 2 bolts because when i removed the wheel i thought great now i can use my ratchet and a socket to remove the 2 bolts but to my dismay the sockets i have is the type that go over a bolt and ton a drive socket that goes inside the bolt head so i noticed in your video when you were going to remove the bolts you had a drive type socket that went into the bolt head so i need to know what is the correct size and name and type that you were using to remove the bolts , are they called caliper sliding pins and is it a spline socket and if so what is the correct size as i have a 1/2" drive on my ratchet . thanks very much oh can i get them on amazon i am in scotland so i will order them online . cheers
Glad you found the video use full and if you are going to work on your car often, I would highly recommend you get a set of Torx bits and Allen bits. Its a torx45 on my car. A Torx bit is similar to an allen key bit but has convex edges and in my experience, lots of mixing and matching takes place and what will be a Torx on one car will be an Allen bit on another so its good to have a set to pick from. You will get them on Amazon for about £10 per set.
Hi I have a metallic rattle over bumps that goes away when brakes are applied. New brembo discs,pads and sliders. New drop links and top control arms, still metallic rattle driving me mad any ideas please?
First thing I would check are the dust shields behind the discs. The steel bolts cause galvanic corrosion on the back plates and eventually they rattle like mad. I binned the rears on my car as they were both rattling. Hopefully that fixes it.
@@AstonishingGlasgow hi and thanks for the reply however they are both new. Please bear in mind when the brakes are applied the noise goes away. The only thing I can think of is the pads rattling in the carrier but on inspection when stationary everything seems solid. It’s driving me crazy!!
Love your B8 series mate! I look forward to doing my alternator pulley and ruining my hands.
Any chance you've done a coolant flush without the Audi charge unit? Any pointers if so??
Thanks Daniel, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I have not had to tackle a coolant flush yet but if I do I will post the outcome here.
@@AstonishingGlasgow Thanks mate, subbed!
Great editing! I laughed at "I want to break free" haha.
Also what was that brown cream you used?
Thanks. The brown cream is copper grease. It stops the two metal surfaces from rusting together when used on the hub and stops the brakes squealing when a little is applied to the back of the pad.
Surely unplugging it would set off the electronic handbrake wont it???
The handbrake works on the rear wheels so changing the front brakes will not effect the rear.
Hey - how do I reset my Audi brake pad sensors after changing FRONT rotors and pads? Don’t I have to activate the brake pads so the car knows that they are much thicker than the old pads? Can I do this without a scan tool?
Front brakes do not require any digital reset. Press in the pistons to fit the pads, reassemble and away you go. Just remember they will need to bed in a little so go easy (no hard braking if you can avoid it) for the few miles.
Good job...
Thanks good
What size torx is that for the calipers?
T45. Tool sizes are captioned on the bottom left of the screen.
You need to use a vagcom or carista to electronically compress the brakes. You will break it any other way. Explain how this worked
You are thinking of the back brakes. The rear calipers have motors for the electronic parking brake that need rewound electrically but there are ways of doing this as well without vagcom.
just use 12vdc supply to wind the parking brake motors backwards...
Great Job mate¡ ¿Wich discs you choose? ¿Ate? I see that pads are Ferodo ,great election. Big hello.
Cheers J J. I splurged out and bought Ferodo discs as well. What I edited out of the video was the pair of discs that were the wrong ones. Went back to the supplier and they corrected their mistake thankfully as I bought them 2 months ago.
@@AstonishingGlasgow great job mate. ¿ What sizes are the discs?its 314mm??. Think i will buy Ferodo discs as well