Great build! To fill the gaps with white resin, is a genius idea! Thanks a lot for this! I would have guessed that the wihte resin would not be tranlucent enough and block the light too much. And transparent resin would not be "milky" enough. So which resin did You use? I also am interested on Your 3d files.
Thank you for your kind comments! The resin I use is a regular 3D printing resin, but I have the same problem with transparency and am still working on improving it. I will be able to show you in the next video about the that solution. And I am also working on a mechanism for you to get the improved 3D files and PCBs. Please wait a week or so.😉
@@07JP27 You could make the cap with "window" cutouts for pieces of "opal" acrylic, paint them black, then engrave the legend through the paint. The windows would allow the light separation needed in this case. If there's no need for light separation, make the cap entirely white. Paint black, then engrave again.
Thank you for attempting to make a purchase. For international shipping, you cannot directly purchase from Booth and will need to use the forwarding service Buyee. When you view the product page in English, you will see the "Purchase with Buyee" button. Please place your order from there. 😊
I have not disassembled the KD2-21, but am concerned about LED brightness issues since the width of the indicator is different from the real one. I may get one to try and disassemble one of these days. Above all, it is more fun to build from scratch🤪
Thanks! Yes, I can provide it in some way. But I'm making an improvement version now. so I can provide an improved version if you can wait about a month :)
@@07JP27 You don't need the stencil. Solder paste comes with a small tube or hollow needle on top of the bottle, to cover the pads on the PCB. Then use tweezers to place the SMD parts, and heat up with hot air. The solder paste doesn't have to be very precise, because it flows to the contact areas, once heated up. I was amazed, how well this works, even without stencil.
Very nice, but… I really wish that you could narrate an instructional video like this one using voiceover. Getting to grips with fast motion graphics while reading subtext (and getting the music…?) is… well, not for me. Being interested in building home cockpit electronics (as I am) should imply lots of available spare time, contradictory to the need for a fomo-esque production esthetic. So, keep it up - but maybe slow down too…? 👍
First of all, thank you very much for your valuable feedback.🤝 Since I am not a native English speaker, I am currently not considering adding narration to this video for a global audience. However, I would like to consider adjusting the duration of the subtitles a bit more. If they still appear too fast, I would appreciate it if you could use the slow playback feature on RUclips to assist you.
@@07JP27 Thanks, you got me on the slow playback feature, didn’t think of it… As a working music producer and studio musician, just changing your creative output in my end is unfamiliar… 😅 (clumsy way of saying that I really respect your work as a whole, not just a sum of parts…👍)
hey how did you setup the yellow led for AP1? I can only find the option for the green one. thanks in advance
Thank you.
Great build!
To fill the gaps with white resin, is a genius idea! Thanks a lot for this!
I would have guessed that the wihte resin would not be tranlucent enough and block the light too much. And transparent resin would not be "milky" enough. So which resin did You use?
I also am interested on Your 3d files.
Thank you for your kind comments!
The resin I use is a regular 3D printing resin, but I have the same problem with transparency and am still working on improving it.
I will be able to show you in the next video about the that solution.
And I am also working on a mechanism for you to get the improved 3D files and PCBs.
Please wait a week or so.😉
@@07JP27 You could make the cap with "window" cutouts for pieces of "opal" acrylic, paint them black, then engrave the legend through the paint. The windows would allow the light separation needed in this case.
If there's no need for light separation, make the cap entirely white. Paint black, then engrave again.
@@07JP27 Maybe using a transparent resin with a very litte bit of white resin mixed into it coud be worth a try...
@@77558 Yes, I am putting that method into practice in the next video.
ruclips.net/video/dtqnR1zG28w/видео.html
nice job, how did u sync the lights with the lights in msfs?
tried to order on Booth but did not work ?? like to buy the PCB's
Thank you for attempting to make a purchase.
For international shipping, you cannot directly purchase from Booth and will need to use the forwarding service Buyee. When you view the product page in English, you will see the "Purchase with Buyee" button. Please place your order from there. 😊
Buyee gives me "403 FORBIDDEN" @@07JP27
which resin do you use? I tried the black from Anycubic and it turned out to be transparent even at 2.5mm.
Here it is. Since transparency can vary depending on the resin, I suggest making test pieces of various thicknesses to test.
amzn.asia/d/gm8WOjW
great work thanks for video because watched with enjoy
Arigato goizamaas. Good working.. friend. . Congrulations
Hey Dude nice Job, but why you dont use KD2-21 Button and modify the front Panel? Thats much easier
I have not disassembled the KD2-21, but am concerned about LED brightness issues since the width of the indicator is different from the real one. I may get one to try and disassemble one of these days.
Above all, it is more fun to build from scratch🤪
Hey, great work. Is there a way to order the pcb plates? Can you upload the 3d files? best regards
Thanks!
Yes, I can provide it in some way. But I'm making an improvement version now. so I can provide an improved version if you can wait about a month :)
The FCU buttons were also me 1st SMD project. I highly recommend to use hot air and solder paste.
P. S. I like the idea to drop resin into the button caps, to get better visibility of illumination. I might also try this.
@@m.l.5284 Exactly, but I need to buy stencil with PCB if I use solder paste. It is little expensive 😂
@@07JP27 You don't need the stencil. Solder paste comes with a small tube or hollow needle on top of the bottle, to cover the pads on the PCB. Then use tweezers to place the SMD parts, and heat up with hot air.
The solder paste doesn't have to be very precise, because it flows to the contact areas, once heated up. I was amazed, how well this works, even without stencil.
👍
Very nice, but… I really wish that you could narrate an instructional video like this one using voiceover. Getting to grips with fast motion graphics while reading subtext (and getting the music…?) is… well, not for me.
Being interested in building home cockpit electronics (as I am) should imply lots of available spare time, contradictory to the need for a fomo-esque production esthetic. So, keep it up - but maybe slow down too…? 👍
First of all, thank you very much for your valuable feedback.🤝
Since I am not a native English speaker, I am currently not considering adding narration to this video for a global audience.
However, I would like to consider adjusting the duration of the subtitles a bit more.
If they still appear too fast, I would appreciate it if you could use the slow playback feature on RUclips to assist you.
@@07JP27 Thanks, you got me on the slow playback feature, didn’t think of it…
As a working music producer and studio musician, just changing your creative output in my end is unfamiliar… 😅 (clumsy way of saying that I really respect your work as a whole, not just a sum of parts…👍)