it's been 5 years since stopping the hobby (family stuff) and i finally said goodbye to my gear only yesterday when i sold it off for real cheap to a really happy middle aged guy getting BACK IN to the hobby after 20years. it made my happy knowing someone could make use of all that stuff that was sitting in storage for half a decade. i had to come back to your channel to figure out how to arm my drone because i remembered setting this exact arming flow 5 years ago and forgot it and needed to tell the new owner how to do it :). also made me really happy to see that you are still around helping the community learn something new everyday, and are more successful than ever. cheers and maybe i'll be back again in 20 years.
Great vid. Learned so much. I took this idea and gave it my own twist . L1 (AND) SH , SF . 1.5 sec delay. Arm and momentary beeper sw. L2 (STKY) L1, disarm with SH Off Mixer CH5 set to L2 Now when I flip the arm sw and hold the momentary beeper sw for 1.5 sec, I will get a beeper sound for 1.5 sec and then props arm. This serves 2 functions. If I accidently have it armed and press on beeper, I get a warning before it arms, secondly, if I am intentionally arming the quad, it let's anyone around know that I am arming the quad . This was so much fun to play around with and to get working. Thanks for all the work you do.
@@JoshuaBardwell what do you think about using a rotary knob > 90% condition instead of the throttle > -99 one? That would feel like a "turn on/off the key" feedback, even more positive and less prone to false activations. Add the 1.5 sec beeper on top of that, looks like a very safe procedure.
Joshua, thanks for the video. I was following you way back when you posted this video and I programmed the sticky arming function, at that time. Nice work on your part and posting a video was so helpful. I put the copter away for a few years and pulled it out just recently. It would NOT arm. I panicked. Well, I forgot about the sticky arming feature, which was enabled or available on my Taranis. It will arm now.
A tip for others following the video. I followed all the programming instructions and it seemed the quad arming was backwards and screwy on how it would arm and disarm. After looking at the video over a few times, I noticed J.B.'s arm mode was at the opposite end of the scale from mine. I connected the quad to betaflight, mode tab, reset the arm mode scale, and "voila" works perfectly. Proud of myself that i was able to figure that out, maybe I really am "learning something" from Mr. Bardwell? Thanks for the great videos and support to all us noobs out here!
This is pretty sweet because you can assign your "Arm" switch to an "Engine Armed" sound effect, and "Engine Start" to L4, which will only sound when the motors should be starting. I think its helpful when you're working with goggles on to have both the tactile feel of the switch positions and the audio in confirming what you're doing.
Hey Joshua great tip and video. Also a tip for your viewers. I don't fly with an OSD, I know its a personal choice, so I have a timer set up with voice announcements. I set the timer to count down on L4, or Logical switch 4, with your setup and included a special function to reset timer with the SH forward. This way it resets when I begin to fly and also only begins to count down when L4 is active and armed. You can than also expand it with another special function with L4 to play the track of engines armed when L4 becomes active.
I'm newer to fpv and multi rotor but what you suggested is exactly what I started doing on my own. I flip the SF switch the arm/disarm and when I have battery power to the quad and radio on I will disarm with the switch then I raise my throttle as a redundancy. I figured it out by dumb luck when I couldn't get my quad to arm and then noticed after a few minutes my throttle was up just a hair. So I started using the throttle as a second safety.
This is genius. I am always paranoid I am going to bump my switch, and with my luck I'd probably hit the throttle right after and then disaster. Great video, didn't even know this could be done.
Been there done that accidentally (arm that is). Disarmed after i landed after a race, the switch got bumped after i picked up the quad and LUCKILY i was carrying it by the battery which was on the bottom. Scary moment! When you set it up people, take the props off! Thanks for the vid!
Really nice way to Arm. I have another way off failsafe arming, I have two switch's : one is a "master kill", the other is the Arm. It works in the way that any off them can disarm if flipped, but the Arming will only happen when the "Master Kill Switch" is on. This will avoid the "accidental radio bump", as long as any off the switches are set low. And yes, this came up after I had a scaring experience when retriving a drone from a low tree, I sent the drone to the ground, then when I jumped from the tree, the radio switch bumped on me and the drone armed, lucky I was fast enought to hit disarm. Now I have one for you guys, yesterday when I was to land, I hit disarm (as always) at about 30cm from the ground, right after the drone when into FULL power (disarmed !!!), I lost ALL command with the drone, had to quickly turn the radio off, to let failsafe (1sec) bring it to ground (100mt away after a perfect loop), I had my goggles on but this is what by buddy descrived to me (he was on standby to fly and watching me land). So, what happended ???? (BF3.2, Turnigy 9XR with ER9x, Frsky XJT Tx, Frsky XM+ Rx)
I have one issue with this. I have once, not often, disarmed accidentally in flight. It should be possible to extend this scheme a little to require the arm switch to be off for say 2 seconds before sticky arm is needed. This would allow emergency rearm, but maintain all of the other great features. And by the way, Thank-you. Fantastic idea, great instructions.
Personally, when I want to disarm, I want to disarm RIGHT FREAKING NOW. I would never put a "safety" on disarm. ruclips.net/video/bTalnzcO0xk/видео.html
Misunderstanding here. I didn't mean "safety on disarm", I meant for rearm. So, instant disarm. For two seconds instant rearm. After that sticky rearm. I totally agree on "RIGHT FREAKING NOW" for disarm.
That's just clever enough that I might go for it. I have actually had it happen that I disarmed early in a crash and then spent the next second and a half wishing I hadn't while the copter tumbles through the air.
Major like from a beginner! I just finished building my first drone and were looking for tips how to setup the arming and everything. This was so help- and useful! Click... subscribed! Cheers man!
I run "Arm" as" SA-" and found a better change is the have"L4 Stcky L3 !SA-" or in Joshua's example "L4 Stcky L3 !SF↑". This means the switch can go to any position other than armed to disarm. I've always used the middle of the switch as I figured it's harder to knock into that place, and is a great addition to this guide. If doing the same you want the mixer CH5's second line as "+= 0 MAX". Hope that's a helps others too.
Genius Joshua! Tweaked this to work with my switch assignments and just went out to test. I never felt safe trying to unplug the quad battery with the radio swinging about on a neck strap.
great info Josh. about 3 months ago planned to set my radio up this way...I didn't. Today I have a nasty cut on my right hand which cut through my fingernail down close to the bone. (I bumped the arming switch while I was positioning the quad for takeoff) Thankfully for me the quad was set in Horz mode, throttle down, and motors started spinning in idle position. Could have been much worse had i also bumped the throttle up while trying to get away from the spinning props. Needless to say a lesson learned. I am now taking a few 'safety steps' to protect myself. 1. keep the transmitter off until the quad is on the ground ready to go. 2. when plugging in the battery keep all fingers and other body parts away from the props. Roger
Thank you for this. I have added to my horus x10, as well as tied it to a widget- shows red/white when L04 is enabled. Really like the safety this adds...... cheers, neil
Great tutorial as always Josh! From one Engineer to another, thanks for moving this hobby forward! Keep up the awesome work. Worked like a charm for both Kiss and Betaflight!
Only difference with KISS is that you have to configure the Aux channel to go ... I think it is low for armed. I don't think KISS has a generic "modes" tab like betaflight/cleanflight does.
Awesome video! Even with the newer BetaFlight - Pre Arm functionality, this still helped me set up the logical switching for the rest of my programming. Thanks, JB!
Awesome, I have been racking my brain trying to figure this out...Thank God you beat me to it...It works like a champ...I got a three switches repeating the function, SWEET!!!
you forgot that right after you arm it, you need to make sure it can also disarm if you put the SF switch to disarm. In order to do that, add the SF(up) on the L04 line second area on the right (funny enough, L04 should activate only when you have the sticky scenario, AND SF(up) is actually armed; this way it will deactivate right away when you disarm SF, no matter what the sticky scenario is at). I added a delay of 0.1 to the "AND SF(up)" on the right to avoid the little glitch otherwise.
Just got one as Spektrum range no good with quads. I just have to follow exactly what JBs vids tell me to do. I barely understand it either! I have twice picked up the quad and caught the arm switch whilst setting it down somewhere. Once made me jump and once made it shoot off in the boot of my car. Just so dangerous. Well, now it won't happen again!
My buddy accidentally armed just two days ago. Got lucky since he was holding the battery at the time. I just sent this to him and will be implementing it too. With all my inflight adjustments and battery warnings these'll be Logical Switches 23-26 :-D
Hi, Something unusual happened, my quad armed itself under strange circumstances. I use the sticky switch arming and like it very much. Story: I may not be exact here because it was an unexpected surprise. I was bench testing to uncover a faulty esc and because I'm using Ghost, all of my receivers are #1. After running the motors (7 inch props on for load) I realized I was testing under the wrong model so once I selected the correct model, it armed and I can't be sure whether it was running higher than Idle because I was panicking to get it disarmed but I don't think I would have panicked if it was just idling. Something to watch for. I did not try to reproduce it.
Excellent - excellent - excellent! I'd change the function in the mixer entries to "replace" or whatever it is instead of "add". But that's just OCD, it doesn't really matter.
I set it up blindly following your instructions and when I armed, nothing happened but when I disarmed the motor ran and wouldn't stop. I then had to try to understand by playing over and over. I finally realised that you had reversed the instructions in the mixer. It should read, when L4 is true throttle is 100. When L4 is not true throttle is -100. Thank you for the error, it forced me to persevere until I understood. I find it hard to believe I'm right and you're wrong and I hope you'll correct me if I've missed something but it now works and it didn't before.
The way I show in the video is exactly how mine is set up and works. My best guess is your setup is different from mine somehow. But if it works, it works!
@@JoshuaBardwell I knew it was very unlikely that I'd find an error in one of your how to videos. So now I've gone back to confused, but as you say, if it works, it works. Thanks for a great safety feature.
KISS still has the throttle "ticking time bomb". I just found this vid and tried it on my latest firmware KISSFCV2F7-1.3-RC36i. Never knew it would do that. If it ever wouldn't arm because of bumped throttle, I would naturally disarm, lower throttle, and rearm, not ever noticing if it would throttle only rearm. It creeped me tha hell out when I just tried it. Yikes! Just an FYI. Thanks for your great vids.
I did just that and coupled it with a physical switch. A little simpler, and I don't find it clumsy at all. For anyone who wants to try this, the pot (knob) must first be set in a logical switch. I made one using a>x SB1 90, which activates the switch when the pot is in the top 5% of its value spektrum. Then you make a second logical switch type AND with the first logical switch (LS1 in my case) and your regular arm switch down. Then set that new logical switch as an AUX channel in the mixer and use that as your Arming channel. Both knob and switch must be engaged to arm, and if either is disangeged, it disarms.
I have a QX7S and I had some problems getting this to quite work. I'm using opentx 2.3.1. It took me several hours to get it to work correctly. Maybe this will help someone else. The problem I was having is the the Sticky would not disengage when I disarmed. It would only disarm when I rearmed the quad. And then it would arm immediately the next time. The Sticky is the problem. There are 2 things u need to do.. In the logical switch code. You need to add below what Joshua has in the "AND switch" your disarm switch position in the sticky code. This will force the sticky to go false and disarm the quad. Also you will need to add a delay I used 0.5 or else the motors with turn for a brief second when you flip the arm switch which is not what u want. I also removed the "and" code in the "EDGE" part since beta-flight will not arm if the throttle is not in the 0 position. Also I use a trim switch for the EDGE instead of the beeper switch since i didn't want to hear the beeper ever time i wanted to arm the quad. I by default disable all trims on the radio. Hope the help someone else.
ive been arming my quad with the throttle right arm left dissarm for a long time because the first time i set it to the switch to arm i bumped it in flight and watched helplessly in horror as my fairly new quad plummeted to the ground.. you cant accidently have the throttle to 0 long enough and to the left to do that lol. this method looks awesome i will have to try it out. thanks joshua!
Excellent tip, i'm implementing right now. I raised a clear and precise issue on Betaflight GitHub regarding the CleanFlight phenomenon you mentioned, however it got closed without being implemented.
Pls take note that JB SF(up) switch is Armed so you have to reverse some of the settings if your Armed is SF(down). I missed that and took me awhile to realize that.
Been doing something similar for months. 2x switches have to be in a specific positions to arm. They have to be in the same position as when I fly helicopters. So left shoulder switch in the middle, right shoulder all the way back. Any other combination is disarmed. Not as fancy, but just uses a simple AND in the Taranis. I haven't had an accidental arm yet (touch wood).
I have followed this perfectly. I saw on the Logical Switch screen, it worked on one occasion I mean I saw what your screen did when armed. ! It will not work consistently. I just don't know where to go next. Your screens are easy to replicate. Could you offer suggestions.
Just started to implement this in conjunction with my flight mode switches, had a couple of "bumped throttles" last few months, great video Josh, I might modify it a little so the momentary switch can still be used to throttle cut on glow models, bit of thinking to do :)
You can do this with just 2 logical switches. Set L01 to 'OR', argument 1 to L02, argument 2 to L01, argument 3 to SF up. L02 stays the same, but make argument 3 SH down. Use L01 in your mixer.
I've never had such a condition yet. As long as failsafe is set to cut motors, I haven't had to kill the motors except for one condition: when airmode is on and I'm landing and I want to stop props from spinning. I have the right side rocker switch set up to switch between modes where airmode is ON and OFF while still in acro mode. That way, as soon as I bring quad in for landing, I flip that rocker switch to stop props from spinning. Also, mine is set up to NOT spin props when armed. So, whenever throttle is at zero, the props aren't spinning. Am I missing something? Is there another situation I don't see where I would need to cut motors immediately?
my experience the other day: Accidentally armed while carrying it back from a crash... rotor hit my nipple. i'm not joking. hilarity ensued as i tried to turn it off without letting go bc it was flailing trying to correct itself against my movements... So yea...dual control arming. good thing. no damage done, thankfully
Joshua, I love your videos! I've learned so much from them. But in this one you did now show how you added a second line to the mixer channel for when L4 is not fired. I'm sure people can figure it out but it would be nice to have it in the video for beginners like me.
It should work for KISS. At the end of the day, all the logic is in the Taranis. The net effect is that an Aux channel goes from one position to another.
Just being using Raceflight the last few days and have arming set to a switch which in order to arm you have to on/off on/off to arm would be cool if that feature was on bf.
great video! just got my Taranis X9Dplus SE and drones (tinyhawk and TBS oblivion). going to use this setup before i even try to get my drones in the air :)
Please help! Eyed like to....."seems so simple but I cant finger it out😑.." I want this same sequence BUT. Instead of SF how can I use a potentiometer instead?! Like a key to turn. And even MORRE less likely to arm... and then id like to use sh, "the spring back/toggle switch" to dissarm also........?!?! What do you think🤔 So say you have to have a potentiometer that needs to be turned all the way right.... if its not 80% +, you cant hit the sh toggle and arm.. and when you land you just hit sh again to dissarm.... turn the potentiometer alllllaway -100/0/"1000 bf aux" and you dont have to worry!!! EDIT I feel so relieved😫😫😂😂 I can fiiinnnnally hang out with the old lady again! When Im set on doing somethng I cant stop and that took 3 days..... and it was tooo easy. I wish somebody was intrested in this also as I think its prettyyy awesome😎 Thank you SOOOO much for your help and allll the videos!
I totally armed my quad just like you did by accident. I hate that switch on the back. I was holding the Taranis in my arm and quad in my hand and was walking and bumped the switch. Scared me. I was okay. I changed it to a switch in front. Maybe I should use a knob!!?? Thanks for the insight. Love it.
@@andyk939 Yeah, no Channel 5 'Input' setup and no Betaflight 'Arming' setup? And no mention of either? Even though we're told we must have an Input in order to have a mixer it isn't done here.....why isn't that explained?
I'm wondering if using one of those pots to arm is a decent solution. seems unlikely you could bump a nob and arm the copter. The sticky switch is very cool though. Thanks for the tutorial!
1:03 exact the same thing happened to me last week and I came by an unpleasant thumb injury. Now I configured the Frsky X7 in that way, that I have to turn the potentiometer and a switch to arm the copter. Hopefully this arming accident won't repeat...
Hi Joshua, I know this is an old video, but I'm unable to get this arming method working on my Taranis QX7.... I've setup the Logical Switch as described, and the Mixer exactly as shown....but am stuck with how to setup the input for the Arming I think is the cause of it not working. Yes, I'm a noob but really appreciate your knowledge and video's. Keep up the great work ;)
I know this is old, but I'm trying to add this safety feature because I'm a long range wing guy, and quads. Don't want to disarm accidentally. But I have many functions on one channel so the weights are all off. This might be why it's not working
I THINK THIS IS A GREAT QUESTION! I DO! I am using the Taranis momentary switch for an assigned telemetry report. Will this also trigger the arming switch? I only tap the momentary switch while flying to get the readout...not holding it for any length of time...if that makes any difference...8) THANK YOU JOSHUA!
Real good help there! Will definitely do this setting on all my profiles! One I'm thinking would need some special treatment is the double arm for raceflight. Have a fix for that yet? :)
Hey Josh! Great vid! I put it all in my radio and it works great. Only thing is I want to tie my failsafe into it and I'm running into some problems. I set it up so L4 won't enable if the failsafe is enabled, and that works. But if my quad is armed and I hit failsafe, it disarms, but as soon as I come out of failsafe it's armed again. (At least to the radio, not the quad!) how do I get it so if I hit failsafe, when I come out of it I still have to re-arm?
Why the MAX override on CH5 mix, instead of a OverrideCH3 -100 on Special Functions? I think the latter is safer, as it overrides the input completely, and keeps to possibility to move the other axes freely, useful on some quadcopters where you can recalibrate or do other things using some stick movement combination.
Hi Joshua, thanks a lot for your work. May I propose an extension to that? Wasting an AUX channel for the beeper can be prevented by modifying your setup. I added a 5th logical switch with "AND SF-down SH-down". then I changed the mixer setting to 70/-70 and added a line "100 L5" This way I can send the beep instruction by holding SH in disarmed mode.
I use a similar set up on a devo7. I use a switch for arming and set my throttle hold as well to 0 throttle. I need to set both switches to arm and to throttle up my props.
I like this method, I do something similar. I fly with a sprung throttle (this way I can feel mid-throttle - In one mode I use S2 to adjust throttle max so I can fly overpowered quads comfortably). I use a dual stick arming. SA is a safety (and instant disarm), SF is hold (and instant disarm), SH is arm (and disarm if hold still on). This way knocking any edge switch will also prevent arming if safety is on. I do however force the throttle channel to -100 while SF hold is engaged. Question: Below min_check, is yaw still disabled if switch arming is in use (ie. while in throttle deadband)?
This is a great idea. I feel so much safer when holding the quad while power up. I added a bit on my setup so that both the Taranis and the quad beep at pre-arm. If you bump the pre-arm switch by accident you are warned of the danger.
Thanks for this nice video! I'm setting up a standard 4-channel model plane with your arming system so that I can copy this for all future models. I am a new Taranis user. Just as you demonstrated, I've got the Logical Switches working perfectly! I'm having trouble linking it to my Mixer values, same as yours. They don't seem to have any effect. From your narration...How do I know that Ch5 or Aux1 are my arming channels? (Fairly new radio, same as yours. Taranis X9+, OpenTx) Thanks in advance! Garland
+Safety48 the mixer lines need to be set up with a source of the input lines. Or you can just take the stick outputs as a source to the mixer directly. For a simple build with no expo or custom curves the latter is fine.
No worries. MAX means that it sets the channel to a fixed value. Or, more accurately, it sets the mixer line to a fixed value. So MAX with a weight of 100 sets the channel to full up, and weight of -100 sets the channel to full down, and so forth.
Sorry, Adding... A little tweak. I play a warning message when the first switch is toggled in case it is unknowingly hit and also those near me know when I'm arming.
Hi Joshua I'm using Ersky9x I have set it to arm my motor with a rotary switch (P3) plus a sticky on the throttle stick This way its impossible to knock it on by accident regards Hans
That was a really good video. I am just in the process of building my first drone. I learned to fly on cheap smashable drones. Now building FPV for the first time. I am having a contest with my bud to see who gets up and running first. I have everything running except for telemetry and arming to I am well along. I understood this video but have a question. I am a little unclear how to configure cleanflight to support the arming. I know it will have to detect L4 and NOT L4 but I am unsure how to set this up.
Man that's exactly what I was thinking those days (how to do something like)! Always one step ahead! ;) One more.. what about adding a WAV with a engine ignition sound?
I wanted to have this safety feature, but when I try the throttle trick (1:45), the engines won't start. I'm using latest stable FC firmware and Betaflight 4.3.0. So now it is not necessary using two switches to arm the quadcopter :-)
One thing worth mentioning that I didn't catch/pick up on at first was that despite it being Ch5 in the mixer, it's AUX1 not AUX5. Took me a little while to figure out what I was doing wrong.
Great video even a newbie could follow (-; I do have a simple question about why you chose for the up position on switch SF to be armed and the down position on SF to be un-armed? Is there some ergonomic reason about how you hold your transmitter that makes it better this way?
I like the added safety here. Is there a way to use this setup, but also add another line to make L4 not true with a quick flip of the momentary switch? I was to be able to disarm but flipping EITHER SF or SH. Thanks!
unrelated topic, did I read somewhere that now we could assign a cli variable to a mode and aux channel in betaflight...im prob confusing my quads with my helis and multiwii boards with mikado vcontrol...but man would be nice, can we petition for it!
I got the safer switch arming to work but need a quick emergency disarm. You explained it when someone else asked in another question...but I don't understand. Was hoping you can clear it up? Thank you for the reply and all you do.
I have failsafe mode on a different switch. So before I pick up the copter, flick into failsafe and I get a 2 switch arming process. Its pretty hard to accidentally knock 2 switches into the correct position, especially the smaller ones on the front panel
Hi Joshua, Im having a bit of difficulty here with this set up. On my mixer page 6/12 under channel 5 the source is the switch name eg SF and the weight is 100 but on your video both parts of channel 5 are set to (max) and one part is weight 100 the other part is weight -100 are these values important? can changing these effect anything else on the radio? Sorry Taranis Noob here lol.
Hi Joshua, do you know a way to add the SH switch to disarming too? I can't get it to work, because in your case on channel 5, i can only use one !L4, and not for example !L4 and !L7, where L5,L6 would be in place of L1 and L3
So I did everything in the video perfectly. Problem is you left out what to do next to set your arm mode in Betaflight. Do you set it up normally like if you had a one click switch arm or is there a special setup for the sticky switch arm in Betaflight? Because my drone isn't arming. EDIT: To setup the arming mode in Betaflight first make sure your momentary switch isn't set for anything else, if so use another switch for that function. Once you've made sure your momentary switch is cleared and not being used, Go to the arm mode, set it to "Auto" and perform your sticky switch arming sequence. Your Arm mode will pick it up (mine picked it up as AUX 1) and now from there move your range tabs to the appropriate position and save.
Slightly of topic; is it possible to set the momentary switch to stay at the state when its switched? Let's say I flip the switch it goes to 100, usually when the switch goes back it will go to -100 again, but I want it to stay at 100 until I flip the switch a second time. Any idea how I can do this?
Very handy. I've always been afraid of an accidental arm as well. I may try this. I am still looking for a way to get a switch to hold my throttle at 1500 until I switch it off for my AP Y6 so that the altitude will hold even if when Yawing I go above or below center. I haven't done a deep search yet on how to do this.
+Joshua Bardwell yep. Well it's not for me it's for whenever I may want to hand over the controls for a minute or two to someone not that experienced. It is just one less thing to worry about. At higher altitudes I do rely on my OSD to see if I'm descending too much. The higher you are the less you can tell obviously.
it's been 5 years since stopping the hobby (family stuff) and i finally
said goodbye to my gear only yesterday when i sold it off for real cheap
to a really happy middle aged guy getting BACK IN to the hobby after
20years. it made my happy knowing someone could make use of all that
stuff that was sitting in storage for half a decade. i had to come back
to your channel to figure out how to arm my drone because i remembered setting this exact arming flow 5 years ago and forgot it and needed to tell the new owner how to do it :). also made me really happy to see that you are still around helping the community learn something new everyday, and are more successful than ever. cheers and maybe i'll be back again in 20 years.
Great vid. Learned so much.
I took this idea and gave it my own twist .
L1 (AND) SH , SF . 1.5 sec delay. Arm and momentary beeper sw.
L2 (STKY) L1, disarm with SH Off
Mixer CH5 set to L2
Now when I flip the arm sw and hold the momentary beeper sw for 1.5 sec, I will get a beeper sound for 1.5 sec and then props arm. This serves 2 functions. If I accidently have it armed and press on beeper, I get a warning before it arms, secondly, if I am intentionally arming the quad, it let's anyone around know that I am arming the quad . This was so much fun to play around with and to get working. Thanks for all the work you do.
Very nice idea. I like that a lot.
@@JoshuaBardwell what do you think about using a rotary knob > 90% condition instead of the throttle > -99 one? That would feel like a "turn on/off the key" feedback, even more positive and less prone to false activations.
Add the 1.5 sec beeper on top of that, looks like a very safe procedure.
Joshua, thanks for the video. I was following you way back when you posted this video and I programmed the sticky arming function, at that time. Nice work on your part and posting a video was so helpful. I put the copter away for a few years and pulled it out just recently. It would NOT arm. I panicked. Well, I forgot about the sticky arming feature, which was enabled or available on my Taranis. It will arm now.
A tip for others following the video. I followed all the programming instructions and it seemed the quad arming was backwards and screwy on how it would arm and disarm. After looking at the video over a few times, I noticed J.B.'s arm mode was at the opposite end of the scale from mine. I connected the quad to betaflight, mode tab, reset the arm mode scale, and "voila" works perfectly. Proud of myself that i was able to figure that out, maybe I really am "learning something" from Mr. Bardwell? Thanks for the great videos and support to all us noobs out here!
Good one :-)
its DEC 2021. almost 2022, EdgeTX. your vid is still very accurate and useful ! Thanks JB !!!
This is pretty sweet because you can assign your "Arm" switch to an "Engine Armed" sound effect, and "Engine Start" to L4, which will only sound when the motors should be starting. I think its helpful when you're working with goggles on to have both the tactile feel of the switch positions and the audio in confirming what you're doing.
Mr B. Awesome as always. I really have learnt SOOOOO much from you this month !
Hey Joshua great tip and video. Also a tip for your viewers. I don't fly with an OSD, I know its a personal choice, so I have a timer set up with voice announcements. I set the timer to count down on L4, or Logical switch 4, with your setup and included a special function to reset timer with the SH forward. This way it resets when I begin to fly and also only begins to count down when L4 is active and armed. You can than also expand it with another special function with L4 to play the track of engines armed when L4 becomes active.
Good tips. The Taranis is a real Swiss-army knife!
I have once done a accidental arm like u and ever since I have always been very paranoid. This video is a great way of fixing the problem!
I'm newer to fpv and multi rotor but what you suggested is exactly what I started doing on my own. I flip the SF switch the arm/disarm and when I have battery power to the quad and radio on I will disarm with the switch then I raise my throttle as a redundancy. I figured it out by dumb luck when I couldn't get my quad to arm and then noticed after a few minutes my throttle was up just a hair. So I started using the throttle as a second safety.
This is genius. I am always paranoid I am going to bump my switch, and with my luck I'd probably hit the throttle right after and then disaster. Great video, didn't even know this could be done.
Been there done that accidentally (arm that is). Disarmed after i landed after a race, the switch got bumped after i picked up the quad and LUCKILY i was carrying it by the battery which was on the bottom. Scary moment! When you set it up people, take the props off! Thanks for the vid!
Really nice way to Arm.
I have another way off failsafe arming, I have two switch's : one is a "master kill", the other is the Arm.
It works in the way that any off them can disarm if flipped, but the Arming will only happen when the "Master Kill Switch" is on.
This will avoid the "accidental radio bump", as long as any off the switches are set low.
And yes, this came up after I had a scaring experience when retriving a drone from a low tree, I sent the drone to the ground, then when I jumped from the tree, the radio switch bumped on me and the drone armed, lucky I was fast enought to hit disarm.
Now I have one for you guys, yesterday when I was to land, I hit disarm (as always) at about 30cm from the ground, right after the drone when into FULL power (disarmed !!!), I lost ALL command with the drone, had to quickly turn the radio off, to let failsafe (1sec) bring it to ground (100mt away after a perfect loop), I had my goggles on but this is what by buddy descrived to me (he was on standby to fly and watching me land). So, what happended ????
(BF3.2, Turnigy 9XR with ER9x, Frsky XJT Tx, Frsky XM+ Rx)
I have one issue with this. I have once, not often, disarmed accidentally in flight. It should be possible to extend this scheme a little to require the arm switch to be off for say 2 seconds before sticky arm is needed. This would allow emergency rearm, but maintain all of the other great features. And by the way, Thank-you. Fantastic idea, great instructions.
Personally, when I want to disarm, I want to disarm RIGHT FREAKING NOW. I would never put a "safety" on disarm.
ruclips.net/video/bTalnzcO0xk/видео.html
Misunderstanding here. I didn't mean "safety on disarm", I meant for rearm. So, instant disarm. For two seconds instant rearm. After that sticky rearm. I totally agree on "RIGHT FREAKING NOW" for disarm.
Ohhhhhh. That's clever.
That's just clever enough that I might go for it. I have actually had it happen that I disarmed early in a crash and then spent the next second and a half wishing I hadn't while the copter tumbles through the air.
Thanks for this. You explained things well enough here that I was able to apply this to my electric aircraft.
Every time i get more and more amazed by the taranis. Best buy ever!
Major like from a beginner! I just finished building my first drone and were looking for tips how to setup the arming and everything. This was so help- and useful! Click... subscribed! Cheers man!
I run "Arm" as" SA-" and found a better change is the have"L4 Stcky L3 !SA-" or in Joshua's example "L4 Stcky L3 !SF↑". This means the switch can go to any position other than armed to disarm. I've always used the middle of the switch as I figured it's harder to knock into that place, and is a great addition to this guide. If doing the same you want the mixer CH5's second line as "+= 0 MAX". Hope that's a helps others too.
Genius Joshua! Tweaked this to work with my switch assignments and just went out to test. I never felt safe trying to unplug the quad battery with the radio swinging about on a neck strap.
The logic switches are pretty cool. I can imagine some fun uses. Love this extra safety step.
great info Josh. about 3 months ago planned to set my radio up this way...I didn't. Today I have a nasty cut on my right hand which cut through my fingernail down close to the bone. (I bumped the arming switch while I was positioning the quad for takeoff) Thankfully for me the quad was set in Horz mode, throttle down, and motors started spinning in idle position. Could have been much worse had i also bumped the throttle up while trying to get away from the spinning props. Needless to say a lesson learned. I am now taking a few 'safety steps' to protect myself. 1. keep the transmitter off until the quad is on the ground ready to go. 2. when plugging in the battery keep all fingers and other body parts away from the props. Roger
Wanted to do this 4 years ago just sat down thank u JB
Thank you for this. I have added to my horus x10, as well as tied it to a widget- shows red/white when L04 is enabled. Really like the safety this adds...... cheers, neil
That's a really great tip Joshua. On Mine SC and SD have to be in the middle to arm. SC up SD down is beeper and SC down SD middle is Blackbox on/off.
Took me all day to get it working correctly But It is working and I love it. Thanks for your knowledge!!!
Great tutorial as always Josh! From one Engineer to another, thanks for moving this hobby forward! Keep up the awesome work. Worked like a charm for both Kiss and Betaflight!
Only difference with KISS is that you have to configure the Aux channel to go ... I think it is low for armed. I don't think KISS has a generic "modes" tab like betaflight/cleanflight does.
Thanks, Josh. I was able to follow this for my Jumper T16 ProHall v2.
Awesome video! Even with the newer BetaFlight - Pre Arm functionality, this still helped me set up the logical switching for the rest of my programming. Thanks, JB!
Awesome, I have been racking my brain trying to figure this out...Thank God you beat me to it...It works like a champ...I got a three switches repeating the function, SWEET!!!
you forgot that right after you arm it, you need to make sure it can also disarm if you put the SF switch to disarm. In order to do that, add the SF(up) on the L04 line second area on the right (funny enough, L04 should activate only when you have the sticky scenario, AND SF(up) is actually armed; this way it will deactivate right away when you disarm SF, no matter what the sticky scenario is at). I added a delay of 0.1 to the "AND SF(up)" on the right to avoid the little glitch otherwise.
I love and hate the Taranis, love everything it can do, hate that I'm to stupid to understand it!!
Me too, brother.
@@jimmcminnsr6309 Me too, brothers
Ooo me too
Just got one as Spektrum range no good with quads. I just have to follow exactly what JBs vids tell me to do. I barely understand it either! I have twice picked up the quad and caught the arm switch whilst setting it down somewhere. Once made me jump and once made it shoot off in the boot of my car. Just so dangerous. Well, now it won't happen again!
It is not TARANIS boys, is yours genome....you have opportunity to sue yours Ma & Pa and ask for compensations
My buddy accidentally armed just two days ago. Got lucky since he was holding the battery at the time. I just sent this to him and will be implementing it too. With all my inflight adjustments and battery warnings these'll be Logical Switches 23-26 :-D
Hi, Something unusual happened, my quad armed itself under strange circumstances. I use the sticky switch arming and like it very much. Story: I may not be exact here because it was an unexpected surprise. I was bench testing to uncover a faulty esc and because I'm using Ghost, all of my receivers are #1. After running the motors (7 inch props on for load) I realized I was testing under the wrong model so once I selected the correct model, it armed and I can't be sure whether it was running higher than Idle because I was panicking to get it disarmed but I don't think I would have panicked if it was just idling. Something to watch for. I did not try to reproduce it.
Excellent - excellent - excellent!
I'd change the function in the mixer entries to "replace" or whatever it is instead of "add". But that's just OCD, it doesn't really matter.
+Chris Mavrakis you're technically right, but because the switches are mutually exclusive it doesn't matter.
I set it up blindly following your instructions and when I armed, nothing happened but when I disarmed the motor ran and wouldn't stop. I then had to try to understand by playing over and over. I finally realised that you had reversed the instructions in the mixer.
It should read, when L4 is true throttle is 100. When L4 is not true throttle is -100.
Thank you for the error, it forced me to persevere until I understood.
I find it hard to believe I'm right and you're wrong and I hope you'll correct me if I've missed something but it now works and it didn't before.
The way I show in the video is exactly how mine is set up and works. My best guess is your setup is different from mine somehow. But if it works, it works!
@@JoshuaBardwell I knew it was very unlikely that I'd find an error in one of your how to videos. So now I've gone back to confused, but as you say, if it works, it works.
Thanks for a great safety feature.
A+ for your work on puppy death prevention.
KISS still has the throttle "ticking time bomb". I just found this vid and tried it on my latest firmware KISSFCV2F7-1.3-RC36i. Never knew it would do that. If it ever wouldn't arm because of bumped throttle, I would naturally disarm, lower throttle, and rearm, not ever noticing if it would throttle only rearm. It creeped me tha hell out when I just tried it. Yikes! Just an FYI. Thanks for your great vids.
How about putting the arming on one of the turn-knobs? I mean.. You'd be hard pressed to accidentally turn those? Seems pretty safe to me?
Seems a little clumsy, but the Taranis could do it for sure. Just make sure you can quickly disarm!
I agree on the clumsy part indeed.. Safe it is though :)
I did just that and coupled it with a physical switch. A little simpler, and I don't find it clumsy at all. For anyone who wants to try this, the pot (knob) must first be set in a logical switch. I made one using a>x SB1 90, which activates the switch when the pot is in the top 5% of its value spektrum. Then you make a second logical switch type AND with the first logical switch (LS1 in my case) and your regular arm switch down. Then set that new logical switch as an AUX channel in the mixer and use that as your Arming channel. Both knob and switch must be engaged to arm, and if either is disangeged, it disarms.
I have a QX7S and I had some problems getting this to quite work. I'm using opentx 2.3.1. It took me several hours to get it to work correctly. Maybe this will help someone else. The problem I was having is the the Sticky would not disengage when I disarmed. It would only disarm when I rearmed the quad. And then it would arm immediately the next time. The Sticky is the problem. There are 2 things u need to do.. In the logical switch code. You need to add below what Joshua has in the "AND switch" your disarm switch position in the sticky code. This will force the sticky to go false and disarm the quad. Also you will need to add a delay I used 0.5 or else the motors with turn for a brief second when you flip the arm switch which is not what u want. I also removed the "and" code in the "EDGE" part since beta-flight will not arm if the throttle is not in the 0 position. Also I use a trim switch for the EDGE instead of the beeper switch since i didn't want to hear the beeper ever time i wanted to arm the quad. I by default disable all trims on the radio. Hope the help someone else.
ive been arming my quad with the throttle right arm left dissarm for a long time because the first time i set it to the switch to arm i bumped it in flight and watched helplessly in horror as my fairly new quad plummeted to the ground.. you cant accidently have the throttle to 0 long enough and to the left to do that lol.
this method looks awesome i will have to try it out. thanks joshua!
+rayikaikin this method still instantly disarms. Just don't bump that switch.
how do i set this up on a X7? My screen isnt big as yours to see how the rest is set up, any howto manual on internet?
I haven't used an X7 to be able to say.
Excellent tip, i'm implementing right now. I raised a clear and precise issue on Betaflight GitHub regarding the CleanFlight phenomenon you mentioned, however it got closed without being implemented.
Pls take note that JB SF(up) switch is Armed so you have to reverse some of the settings if your Armed is SF(down). I missed that and took me awhile to realize that.
Been doing something similar for months. 2x switches have to be in a specific positions to arm. They have to be in the same position as when I fly helicopters. So left shoulder switch in the middle, right shoulder all the way back. Any other combination is disarmed.
Not as fancy, but just uses a simple AND in the Taranis.
I haven't had an accidental arm yet (touch wood).
I have followed this perfectly. I saw on the Logical Switch screen, it worked on one occasion I mean I saw what your screen did when armed. ! It will not work consistently. I just don't know where to go next. Your screens are easy to replicate. Could you offer suggestions.
Here's my version for Turnigy 9XR PRO
LOGICAL SWITCHES
L1 v
Just started to implement this in conjunction with my flight mode switches, had a couple of "bumped throttles" last few months, great video Josh, I might modify it a little so the momentary switch can still be used to throttle cut on glow models, bit of thinking to do :)
I love this method, been using it for a while now, very intuitive
You can do this with just 2 logical switches. Set L01 to 'OR', argument 1 to L02, argument 2 to L01, argument 3 to SF up. L02 stays the same, but make argument 3 SH down. Use L01 in your mixer.
I put my arm switch on of the KNOBS on the Taranis. So much safer. No issue of ever bumping it. Just have to turn knob up all the way to arm it.
How do you disarm immediately in the event of an unsafe condition?
I've never had such a condition yet. As long as failsafe is set to cut motors, I haven't had to kill the motors except for one condition: when airmode is on and I'm landing and I want to stop props from spinning. I have the right side rocker switch set up to switch between modes where airmode is ON and OFF while still in acro mode. That way, as soon as I bring quad in for landing, I flip that rocker switch to stop props from spinning. Also, mine is set up to NOT spin props when armed. So, whenever throttle is at zero, the props aren't spinning. Am I missing something? Is there another situation I don't see where I would need to cut motors immediately?
my experience the other day:
Accidentally armed while carrying it back from a crash...
rotor hit my nipple. i'm not joking. hilarity ensued as i tried to turn it off without letting go bc it was flailing trying to correct itself against my movements...
So yea...dual control arming. good thing. no damage done, thankfully
Joshua, I love your videos! I've learned so much from them. But in this one you did now show how you added a second line to the mixer channel for when L4 is not fired. I'm sure people can figure it out but it would be nice to have it in the video for beginners like me.
Quality vid like always josh! Is this strictly for clean flight? Will this work for KISS fc as well?
It should work for KISS. At the end of the day, all the logic is in the Taranis. The net effect is that an Aux channel goes from one position to another.
Just being using Raceflight the last few days and have arming set to a switch which in order to arm you have to on/off on/off to arm would be cool if that feature was on bf.
This was awesome!! Thought about doing something like this even before getting my Taranis. Thanks for sharing :)
great video! just got my Taranis X9Dplus SE and drones (tinyhawk and TBS oblivion). going to use this setup before i even try to get my drones in the air :)
Please help! Eyed like to....."seems so simple but I cant finger it out😑.." I want this same sequence BUT. Instead of SF how can I use a potentiometer instead?! Like a key to turn. And even MORRE less likely to arm... and then id like to use sh, "the spring back/toggle switch" to dissarm also........?!?! What do you think🤔 So say you have to have a potentiometer that needs to be turned all the way right.... if its not 80% +, you cant hit the sh toggle and arm.. and when you land you just hit sh again to dissarm.... turn the potentiometer alllllaway -100/0/"1000 bf aux" and you dont have to worry!!! EDIT I feel so relieved😫😫😂😂 I can fiiinnnnally hang out with the old lady again! When Im set on doing somethng I cant stop and that took 3 days..... and it was tooo easy. I wish somebody was intrested in this also as I think its prettyyy awesome😎 Thank you SOOOO much for your help and allll the videos!
I totally armed my quad just like you did by accident. I hate that switch on the back. I was holding the Taranis in my arm and quad in my hand and was walking and bumped the switch. Scared me. I was okay. I changed it to a switch in front. Maybe I should use a knob!!?? Thanks for the insight. Love it.
This is brilliant!! I've been wanting to set something like this up on my 9xr for a while...
Awesome!
Love the channel but there's something missing to this tutorial. Been driving me crazy for hours and just can't get it to work properly.
Same here!
@@andyk939 Yeah, no Channel 5 'Input' setup and no Betaflight 'Arming' setup? And no mention of either? Even though we're told we must have an Input in order to have a mixer it isn't done here.....why isn't that explained?
I'm wondering if using one of those pots to arm is a decent solution. seems unlikely you could bump a nob and arm the copter. The sticky switch is very cool though. Thanks for the tutorial!
Awesome fix for accidental arming! Thanks
Awesome! I'm going to use it! 😃
Thanks a lot, JB!
Hah, exactly what I was looking to do. your channel is becoming invaluable. The stick down arming is annoying :P
1:03 exact the same thing happened to me last week and I came by an unpleasant thumb injury. Now I configured the Frsky X7 in that way, that I have to turn the potentiometer and a switch to arm the copter. Hopefully this arming accident won't repeat...
Hi Joshua, I know this is an old video, but I'm unable to get this arming method working on my Taranis QX7.... I've setup the Logical Switch as described, and the Mixer exactly as shown....but am stuck with how to setup the input for the Arming I think is the cause of it not working. Yes, I'm a noob but really appreciate your knowledge and video's. Keep up the great work ;)
I know this is old, but I'm trying to add this safety feature because I'm a long range wing guy, and quads. Don't want to disarm accidentally. But I have many functions on one channel so the weights are all off. This might be why it's not working
I THINK THIS IS A GREAT QUESTION! I DO!
I am using the Taranis momentary switch for an assigned telemetry report. Will this also trigger the arming switch? I only tap the momentary switch while flying to get the readout...not holding it for any length of time...if that makes any difference...8)
THANK YOU JOSHUA!
Real good help there! Will definitely do this setting on all my profiles!
One I'm thinking would need some special treatment is the double arm for raceflight. Have a fix for that yet? :)
Thanks for the video, I use a modified version for my electric fixed wings.
Thx man! Worked perfectly on the Frsky qx7! ^^
what did u change in the mixer screen to get the !L4 100 and L4 -100
Hey Josh! Great vid! I put it all in my radio and it works great. Only thing is I want to tie my failsafe into it and I'm running into some problems. I set it up so L4 won't enable if the failsafe is enabled, and that works. But if my quad is armed and I hit failsafe, it disarms, but as soon as I come out of failsafe it's armed again. (At least to the radio, not the quad!) how do I get it so if I hit failsafe, when I come out of it I still have to re-arm?
Why the MAX override on CH5 mix, instead of a OverrideCH3 -100 on Special Functions? I think the latter is safer, as it overrides the input completely, and keeps to possibility to move the other axes freely, useful on some quadcopters where you can recalibrate or do other things using some stick movement combination.
Hi Joshua, thanks a lot for your work. May I propose an extension to that? Wasting an AUX channel for the beeper can be prevented by modifying your setup. I added a 5th logical switch with "AND SF-down SH-down". then I changed the mixer setting to 70/-70 and added a line "100 L5" This way I can send the beep instruction by holding SH in disarmed mode.
Yeah. I'm just lazy about it.
I use a similar set up on a devo7. I use a switch for arming and set my throttle hold as well to 0 throttle. I need to set both switches to arm and to throttle up my props.
Brilliant idea but actually I never need such an arming sequence but very good way to do it
like
I like this method, I do something similar.
I fly with a sprung throttle (this way I can feel mid-throttle - In one mode I use S2 to adjust throttle max so I can fly overpowered quads comfortably). I use a dual stick arming. SA is a safety (and instant disarm), SF is hold (and instant disarm), SH is arm (and disarm if hold still on). This way knocking any edge switch will also prevent arming if safety is on. I do however force the throttle channel to -100 while SF hold is engaged.
Question: Below min_check, is yaw still disabled if switch arming is in use (ie. while in throttle deadband)?
This is a great idea. I feel so much safer when holding the quad while power up. I added a bit on my setup so that both the Taranis and the quad beep at pre-arm. If you bump the pre-arm switch by accident you are warned of the danger.
+Ritch1e nice.
Thanks for this nice video! I'm setting up a standard 4-channel model plane with your arming system so that I can copy this for all future models. I am a new Taranis user. Just as you demonstrated, I've got the Logical Switches working perfectly! I'm having trouble linking it to my Mixer values, same as yours. They don't seem to have any effect. From your narration...How do I know that Ch5 or Aux1 are my arming channels? (Fairly new radio, same as yours. Taranis X9+, OpenTx) Thanks in advance! Garland
+Safety48 the mixer lines need to be set up with a source of the input lines. Or you can just take the stick outputs as a source to the mixer directly. For a simple build with no expo or custom curves the latter is fine.
Joshua, I got it. It wasn't set to MAX at my side. Here it was set to an input signal. Have no idea what this MAX means. Sorry for my intrusion!
No worries. MAX means that it sets the channel to a fixed value. Or, more accurately, it sets the mixer line to a fixed value. So MAX with a weight of 100 sets the channel to full up, and weight of -100 sets the channel to full down, and so forth.
Love this tip. Really smart and safe.
Sorry, Adding... A little tweak. I play a warning message when the first switch is toggled in case it is unknowingly hit and also those near me know when I'm arming.
thanks. this may save some of my fingers.
Great stuff. Now I am thinking on how to set this up on my Futaba T14sG...
Hi Joshua
I'm using Ersky9x
I have set it to arm my motor with a rotary switch (P3) plus a sticky on the throttle stick
This way its impossible to knock it on by accident
regards
Hans
That was a really good video. I am just in the process of building my first drone. I learned to fly on cheap smashable drones. Now building FPV for the first time. I am having a contest with my bud to see who gets up and running first. I have everything running except for telemetry and arming to I am well along. I understood this video but have a question. I am a little unclear how to configure cleanflight to support the arming. I know it will have to detect L4 and NOT L4 but I am unsure how to set this up.
ruclips.net/video/SLy28mYiAzU/видео.html
Man that's exactly what I was thinking those days (how to do something like)! Always one step ahead! ;) One more.. what about adding a WAV with a engine ignition sound?
Awesome idea Gualtiero! Consider your idea stolen :)
I have seen someone on the Internet who did that, so you're not alone there.
I wanted to have this safety feature, but when I try the throttle trick (1:45), the engines won't start. I'm using latest stable FC firmware and Betaflight 4.3.0. So now it is not necessary using two switches to arm the quadcopter :-)
Awesome tip! I'll probably add it in soon :)
One thing worth mentioning that I didn't catch/pick up on at first was that despite it being Ch5 in the mixer, it's AUX1 not AUX5. Took me a little while to figure out what I was doing wrong.
Great video even a newbie could follow (-; I do have a simple question about why you chose for the up position on switch SF to be armed and the down position on SF to be un-armed? Is there some ergonomic reason about how you hold your transmitter that makes it better this way?
I feel better disarming swiping the switch towards me rather than pushing it away.
I like the added safety here. Is there a way to use this setup, but also add another line to make L4 not true with a quick flip of the momentary switch? I was to be able to disarm but flipping EITHER SF or SH.
Thanks!
+Marshall Campbell you can do that. Make a new line that is true whenever SF or SH and make that line be the end condition for the sticky.
Thank you!!! I just set this up, it works great.
unrelated topic, did I read somewhere that now we could assign a cli variable to a mode and aux channel in betaflight...im prob confusing my quads with my helis and multiwii boards with mikado vcontrol...but man would be nice, can we petition for it!
I got the safer switch arming to work but need a quick emergency disarm. You explained it when someone else asked in another question...but I don't understand. Was hoping you can clear it up? Thank you for the reply and all you do.
Safer switch arming doesn't change disarm at all. Disarming is still a one-step process. Just flick the switch back agai.
Guess something is going on with my Kiss setup...cause flipping the switch back isn't disarming. Thanks again!
+Angel Pagan check the aux channel. Does it move? The logic is probably wrong.
I have failsafe mode on a different switch. So before I pick up the copter, flick into failsafe and I get a 2 switch arming process. Its pretty hard to accidentally knock 2 switches into the correct position, especially the smaller ones on the front panel
Hi Joshua, Im having a bit of difficulty here with this set up. On my mixer page 6/12 under channel 5 the source is the switch name eg SF and the weight is 100 but on your video both parts of channel 5 are set to (max) and one part is weight 100 the other part is weight -100 are these values important? can changing these effect anything else on the radio? Sorry Taranis Noob here lol.
Hi Joshua, do you know a way to add the SH switch to disarming too? I can't get it to work, because in your case on channel 5, i can only use one !L4, and not for example !L4 and !L7, where L5,L6 would be in place of L1 and L3
So I did everything in the video perfectly. Problem is you left out what to do next to set your arm mode in Betaflight. Do you set it up normally like if you had a one click switch arm or is there a special setup for the sticky switch arm in Betaflight? Because my drone isn't arming.
EDIT: To setup the arming mode in Betaflight first make sure your momentary switch isn't set for anything else, if so use another switch for that function. Once you've made sure your momentary switch is cleared and not being used, Go to the arm mode, set it to "Auto" and perform your sticky switch arming sequence. Your Arm mode will pick it up (mine picked it up as AUX 1) and now from there move your range tabs to the appropriate position and save.
You set it up based on the Aux channel like normal.
Slightly of topic; is it possible to set the momentary switch to stay at the state when its switched? Let's say I flip the switch it goes to 100, usually when the switch goes back it will go to -100 again, but I want it to stay at 100 until I flip the switch a second time. Any idea how I can do this?
Very handy. I've always been afraid of an accidental arm as well. I may try this.
I am still looking for a way to get a switch to hold my throttle at 1500 until I switch it off for my AP Y6 so that the altitude will hold even if when Yawing I go above or below center. I haven't done a deep search yet on how to do this.
Managing the throttle while yawing is just a matter of practice. Walk and chew gum, you know?
+Joshua Bardwell yep. Well it's not for me it's for whenever I may want to hand over the controls for a minute or two to someone not that experienced. It is just one less thing to worry about. At higher altitudes I do rely on my OSD to see if I'm descending too much. The higher you are the less you can tell obviously.