BMW E46 Quicker CCV Replacement DIY - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- CCV Component Kit (with cold weather hoses): amzn.to/2E6fr65
Hose Separator Pliers: amzn.to/2GBiTUi
Dipstick Tube O-Ring: 11431740045
My mailing address for correspondence or swag of any kind is on my about page.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
6 years later and your video is still helping people. Used it today whilst doing my 330ci clubsport. Cheers pal 👍🏻
Same.. saving a POS 325i lol
I did my E39 530i yesterday. It was white-smoking* quite a bit and missing intermittently. I pulled some scary-sounding codes, including 2 cylinders misfiring, but hoping no serious damage. I haven't completely reassembled - only the DISA and air intake and filter is left. The reason I didn't finish last night was because: (a) It was getting late and my back was killing after 3 hours, and (b) I have a small T-25/27 bolt with fine threads left over. I looked everything over carefully and cannot figure out from whence it came. Btw, there are a few differences between the E39 M54 setup and the E46 M54 setup - duh! I found a few things were more difficult on the E39 than appeared in this video. However, some things were easier. The electronics box would not come away as far as in the video. There was a harness going to the front of the engine that split off into three connectors (I think) and I couldn't get to two of them. But, I still had enough room to get the job done.
Also, it seemed like the E39 had more room under the intake manifold than how it appeared in the E46 video. Once I got my face under there with a good work light to scope out the situation, it was little effort getting the short right-angle tube up in there, and then connecting it to the diaphram port on the CCV. I actually put the tube in its proper place, all the way up through the front two intake runners - but not connected yet. Then I had just enough room to get the CCV under there and rotate the CCV to get the tube on properly.
One suggestion for any series with M54 CCV: After removing all four CCV tubes, compare the new tubes to them by putting them right next to or ontop of the old ones. My short rt-angle tube was just slightly off in the angle connecting to the manifold. Since it was corrugated in that angled spot, I very carefully pre-bent it a bit to more closely match the old one. It wasn't perfect, but pretty close. Once you get that tube up in place between the two intake runners, there is very little room to try and bend it into the intake's pipe.
Now, about that "extra" bolt I have...
It's likely not something terribly important, but I know once I button everything up completely, and the car runs fine (fingers crossed) I won't want to worry about one little bolt. So, I'd rather figure out where it goes now and just be done with it. It's a T-25 or 27 wide/rounded head, with fine threads about ½ inch long.
Photo of bolt: share.icloud.com/photos/0CxVrPwgTGDmgfyeEebIP-RMA
Okay, after getting the air intake all buttoned up, I noticed some quite loose steel and rubber hoses toward the rear of the engine, and found a bracket dangling. That's where the leftover bolt goes. Hooray. When I started the car up, it was still missing some and a very loud rattling noise appeard above 1,000 RPM. Scary. I held it at 900 RPM until it warmed up. It was then much better. I drove it around the block and it now seems fine. No smoke. No codes. Smooth idle. No missing. Hooray again.
The cold weather version is slightly more difficult, but you can get the cold weather version with 2 hoses, genuine, from FCP for cheap. You still need to buy 2 more hoses, I went with Rein.
Will it hurt running your car like that for a few weeks until you can get it replaced ?? Mine just pops every now and again
Now i have a weird sound whining sound from my disa valve at idle when in gear
Your camera angles and lighting are great; I do not know how you do it but keep it up.
I give up I’m just guna buy a ford escort and be happy in life.......everything on my e46 turns into an all day event 😒
Yea then your at a red light and theres 2 e46's next to your ford while your crying deep down lol
The Ford is worse. Just do what I did. Buy 3 e46s it's a rotation of repairs
I FEEL YOU!!!!!
I know that feeling bro ....
took me an hour to change a fuse deep in the glove box once
TIP: when reinstalling make sure the fuel line goes before or under the 3/8” hose that comes from the secondary air pump that connects to the back of the manifold. If not, The fuel line will bend the 3/8 inch hose against the nipple it connects to and restrict the air flow. you will get the “engine check light” but no error codes. I ran into this issue. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks '50's Kid'. Last weekend I replaced my Vanos seals and valve cover gasket, using your video as a guide. This weekend I have replaced my CCV system. I couldn't have done it without your help. You have saved me hundreds of pounds in labour and my car is running like never before... it's literally flying! I am now addicted and wondering what to do next... ??? :)
Your instructional videos are spot on. You do an incredible job with them. You never skip over anything and explain all issues. I really appreciate your effort. You do a great job. Keep up the good work!
Hey, just to say I followed the DIY, I am an absolute amateur and did the job in 5 hours, thanks for the video! I used a lot of silicone lubricant on all the o rings and stuff, would have been truly awful trying to fit dry. My car doesn't seem to be burning oil like it used to, did a 400 mile journey no problem!
Finished it today based on your Instruction,worked fine,took me 4 hours with lots of Smoking Breaks and Cleaning throttle body and icv,and some more things.used new seals,now its running fine.thx jason.
Did you purchase the rubber o rings that amazon reccomends to purchase with the kit?
@@jrease4829 no,i bought a whole kit, but it is in Germany, from ebay,seller is vanosschmiede
Them smoke breaks be clutch
O8-17-2021, En la Madre, that's a lot of work
Came on here to say thanks. It took forever but I think I successfully took apart, replaced and reassembled all the above...hopefully. I had some trouble starting it up after I put it all together again, and when I did, I had smoke still coming out of the exhaust(which was to be expected) but a few minutes running and it cleared up. Terrible misfire at first though. Took longer than I expected to burn all the oil though.Your videos are concise and clear. While taking it apart, I also noticed that the starter is underneath the intake manifold so that should be fun to change if/when it goes out. I now know why most mechanics aren't thrilled about working on BMWs. I still think it would have been easier to tow it to a cliff and send it on it's merry way but anyway, I appreciate your videos. You should put a link to your video on here that shows how you counteract the CCV failure.
Hey Elizabeth great feedback I plan on changing my CCV this weekend. What tools did you use? Thanks
High quality work, as always! Thank you Jason!
50s kid is awesome. About to attempt this on an 04 x3 e83
And the long way consists of taking more of the engine apart??
Your timing is great. My kit just arrived in the post today.
Nice, there's always somebody who was just about to do whatever I just posted lol
Jason , quick question. The hard plastic line which you mentioned at 3:25 , hooked up by deepstick tube, which you removed with a simple move , is it connected somewhere?
because I found mine not connected to anything ( the curved top end) and I don't know if should be like this.Well in this moment , still working on my ccv, so a little bit help with an answer would help me a lot.
Btw : BEST video ever for N54 CCV troubleshooting.
For those 7 guys who didn't like the video..
I have 2 words for you , and the first one starts with F .. you do not know how hard is to film this job ...to do the job and film it is double effort you morons!
Great videos, man! I did this in about 3 1/2 hours. I have been working on cars for a long time so I can't say it was particularly difficult. But it was tedious and I hope I don't have to do it again!
Pro tip: Having the car up on ramps or jack stands when doing this helps a lot. It puts everything you need to work on at a better angle and raises it up a foot or so.
all in all 6 hours to disassemble and reassemble this project. I am 6'4 so working on the car and leaning over was a pain. But your video helped immensely. Car runs better than it has in years and the gas millage has gone back up. 2004 e60 530 218,000 miles. Thank you.
Great video ... what prompted the replacement of the PCV/CCV ? codes P0171/174? ...subscribed.
Thats why I changed the ccv .. 174 and 171... no vacuum leaks... changed ccv and codes are gonna .. went through inspection.. good for another 2 yrs in NJ
Hey Jason: Great video as always. I will eventually do this job (CCV replacement) in my e46 following your detailed videos during this upcoming summer. I live in Vermont and what I have found is that when I start seeing the Mayo substance -- due to the condensation by the constant change in temperature due to the motor warming up from very cold temps (10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit) -- , is good at the end of the day (after arriving at my house from work) to leave the oil cap open for 15 to 20 minutes to let the water vapor and condensation go away. My CCV is still in good shape but letting the vapor out helps with the Mayo (water mixed with oil) situation. Thanks again for the great quality videos; they are the best!
Thanks for drooping that info off on the mayo''s lifecycle
Excellent video.
I replaced the CCV system on my 330i e46 a couple of weeks ago. I did so WITHOUT removing the heat shield and WITHOUT removing the oil dipstick tube. I had heard horror stories about reinstalling the dipstick tube, so I avoided that step.
I suggest playing with the various parts of the CCV system so that you can really understand how they connect to each other. Be able to connect them ‘by feel’ because you will be connecting these in the blind. Especially the upper hose that connects to the top of the valve.
Be mindful to reconnect all of the electrical connectors. I know that sounds obvious, but I forgot to connect one. End up with a CEL until I reconnected it.
Replacing the CCV system really isn’t that terrible of a DIY repair.
This is a great guide for general car work. Nice.
yes, but sometimes the dipstick needs to be removed in order to remove all the gunk
Just did this replacement this week. My only problem was not pushing the TB electrical connector on far enough, so I started the engine when finished and threw a couple of codes. Torque app got me dialed in. Had to pull the DISA back out, & the 2 rubber intake ducts to find the problem. Pushed the plug on fully, put it back together and all was (and is) well. One thing of note regarding that damn flexible tube that's so hard to twist onto the CCV: you can push it straight on, you don't have to twist it on. The hardest part of this was having the ability to grasp the CCV and hose enough to push hard enough to get it on. These two videos were awesome and ridiculously helpful for this procedure. Thanks so much, Jason!
Jason.
Where are you located. I will bring my 325 and 328 to you. For any service.
Excellent DIY video! I just did this today and would like to share a few notes...
First: Silicone spray. It works better than the thick grease, makes things slide right on and less messy than the thick grease. Hit all the plastic/rubber hose connections. Second: Get some DeOxit spay and hit ALL the pin connections, male and female. Your car will thank you and it also makes sliding the connectors together easier. Third: Watch the booster hose at the Sucking Pump end. Be careful! Mine broke broke off at that weak connection. I'mm trying an epoxy fix for now but I'll replace it with the updated BMW part.
The hardest part of the whole process was the first hose on the vid, the one that "turns" up underneath the intake runner. I swear that one took me an hour and 8 or so tries. But I got it. After that it was smooth sailing.
This is a fiddly job but not that difficult and made much easier if you watch the video. Thanks 50sKid!
I plan on changing my CCV this weekend. What tools did you use? Thanks
Instead of cutting pipes unscrew the 4 screws on top of intake where the runners are and just pop them off
Hello 50's Kid. Love your videos everyone is in great detail. I have watched your video on taking the intake off to change the CCV, i have done that but at the end of your video you said it would take alittle bit for the fuel pump to catch? Mine is turning over like it wants to start but never catches.. is there something i missed?
Thank you Jason for this video, I have watched this video about 50 times and my parts arrived yesterday. I made sure to lube all the connections up and do a dry fit before I try to install. I found that the lower oil hose would not push in all the way because the o-ring was super big. I saved the connector from the old one and it snapped in to place just fine.
It was such a simple job, I thought the 90 degree through the small hole was the easiest knowing the "twist secret" I was able to even pull off the old one with out even breaking breaking it.
I opened up the old CCV and clearly found the failed diaphragm inside. I am just to go for my drive cycle and all my short term fuel trims are now at +/- Zero. Long terms are dropping too. At idle the trims are perfect then at 2500 rpm they go up to about 10% instead of the old 28% then when I let off the gas and go back to Idle I can see the STFT recover to the LTFT then go back to Zero. I am pretty sure everything is ready to go.
Thanks for your help and can't wait to see how everything checks out once the drive cycle is complete.
Cheers!
Where's the e53 instructions
I've watched a multitude of videos regarding our E46's. This, by FAR, is the absolute best!!! Your camera angles (mini cam??), your lighting, your full & thorough explanations, everything, just GREAT!!! PLEASE keep it up. Truly the best out there !!! THANK YOU. You have saved me tremendous stress AND many dollars. These vacuum components are an enigma & w/out your descriptions & explanations I would have ended up replacing items that didn't need to be. Repaired my (much needed-to-be) DISA but symptoms continued & it was recommended to also replace Idle Control Valve (provides same symptoms but $100+) but your explanation of it's working and cleaning definitely helps. Besides, I just have this feeling that it's the CCV. I have not yet under taken this job because I wasn't looking forward to taking the intake off (recommended by everyone else incl BMW manual, and/or the additional expense (gaskets etc..., just hoping I don't have a vacuum leak there)). I knew there had to be a better way. I will let you know how I make out but again, THANK YOU !!! Seriously, so happy to find at least one (other) logical & competent mechanic out there... :)
I know this video is years old now, and i m9st likely will NOT get a response. But i am curious, can i use the " Cold Weather Kit " when replacing my existing hoses ? I live in NJ and we actually have 4 seasons. So even if my 325xi does not currently have the Cold Weather Hoses, i would like to switch to it. Just do not know if it is swappable or not. Any help would be appreciated greatly.
Outstanding video. I'm due for my 2nd CCV replacement and your DIY makes me confident.
god your second? i hope it went well
Hy dude, i really appreciate ur videos..thanks so much.
I m kinda stuck😵💫
Plz can u do a video on each connection/lug from the intake side of the harness for rewiring. I so confused!
Thanks a million, with love from SouthAfrica.
Hi I am Jorge ,my BMW E46 2003 325CI QUESTION During start Engine smaller Gasoline following Engine Soon Required, after scan check the code is PO491 AND PO492 can you any recomendation Thanks
Thanks for the CCV twist trick, I did my 99 323i last weekend and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be thanks to the twist trick, your the best!
Just a helpful tip if you have an M52tu you will have a vacuum tube connected to the separator itself that you will need to remove.
Great details and information. Total job for me 5 hours on our 2004 330i. Old air intake boots both ripped so I suggest order new ones before the job. Just amazing how much BMW plastic is used. Thank you for these videos
DON'T BREAK I OFF. STOP SAYING BREAK IT!!! YOU PUT A FLATHEAD ON ONE SIDE WHERE YOUR FINGER DOESN'T FIT AND THEN ON THE OTHER SIDE YOU PRESS WITH YOUR FINGER, AND THEN JUST PULL IT OUT. DON'T BREAK PERFECTLY GOOD TUBES!!
This is a great instructional video with good camera work and good verbal explanation, but it has one serious flaw, from my twenty plus years of fiddling around in an engine bay you never "just break" anything. You only do that if it's a last resort. If that's the only way to get it off, and that does happen on occasion when things get so stuck, rusted or melted into place that you have to cut or break, but you never destroy any part just to save a little bit of time unless somehow it's a life or death situation. If you tear something up and then find out they sent you the wrong part, the correct part but it's of poor quality and doesn't really fit or sometimes you find out the thing you thought was bad really isn't whereby you can then either return the part or stick it on a shelf for when the old part that luckily you didn't destroy really does go bad. It makes you feel good to replace that dirty part with a clean new one but I hate to see good parts replaced and tossed. Every time I replace a part I keep the old one at least until I take the car for a test drive and everything checks out. There's also the risk of getting little bits of rubber and plastic way down in the recesses of the engine to do God knows what. Maybe that little piece of rubber that came off when you cut the part came to rest on a very hot part of the engine which also happens to have some electrical wiring that's crucial, the rubber melts and burns through the plastic protection and through the insulation of the wire and then damn, we got an even bigger issue now. Hell you could get careless and tear something up you didn't mean to.
Look I know it's tempting, I used to do it, but it only takes a couple of times for one of the above scenarios to take place to cuss yourself for doing it again. On rare occasions you don't have choice, but if even a single one of those things happens in twenty times of wrenching on a car you're gonna lose all that time and then some that you thought you were saving. It's a really bad habit.
Hey otherwise though it's a stellar video. I know I typed a novel complaining about that one thing but it's really a great video.
have a 2005 bmw 325i bringing back from the dead, watched lots of your videos and love them. issue i have, replaced almost every component in this car, getting p2440 /.new pump and new after market valve(the valve has no vacuum connection this model) just replace the entire pcv system removed manifold tight connection to the intake from purge valve. still getting code. i am about to install in 5 minutes a new piersburg valve to see if that does trick/pump blows lots of air. any suggestions if that doesnt work? need help
I just wanted to ask, slightly off topic but my power steering reservoir is always covered in fluid, I wipe it and it comes back again it's always done it. Is that normal? Also there's no O-Ring under the PS Res cap, should there be? I did buy one because I thought it should have one but the cap then wouldn't screw on at all I literally could not get it to seat at all and it ended up braking the O-Ring🤔 Thanks in advance:)
Great video! I read in the comments that's it's possible to do it without removing the dipstick tube? I'm wondering because, my e83 m54b30's dipstick tube is bolted way further down compared to the e46, and it's really hard to get some leverage in that tiny space, only thing that fits is a 13mm stubby wrench, but no leverage, I'll try with a flexhead tomorrow.
Can one do this without taking out the DISA valve? I bought my car secondhand and one of the torx 40 bolts on the DISA valve is stripped...
I just wanna say for the evap connector. I found that the hard way on a 4.4 ..the previous owner cross the banks connector with the purge vavle connector.. LMFAO stealership wanted to open my engine cause it's internal problem yes right...just a thought...great video by the way
Your videos are awesome , and incredibly helpful. There are no other e46 videos needed
Hi I have a question about the ccv replacement on the m54, I already have to do the oil filter housing gasket and wanted to know if I should be able to access all the ccv parts from the Front side while I have the oil filter housing off to the side
I appreciate the help if you can get back to me
Tried to do this today and I couldn't even get to the bolt of the dipstick so i surrendered. But I could get a glimpse of my CCV system and it looks like shit. There was oil everywhere. So at least I think to know now where my problems are coming from.
Ok so I drive a 2002 525i and the dip stick did not come out this easy infact it broke off in the block because there's a small part that sticks out and keeps the dip stick in place I wish I was informed of this before doing this because my dip stick is broken in the block 🙃
After changing my valve cover gasket (using 50skid’s video), I noticed the ccv hose that ran from the valve cover to the ccv system under the inlet had snapped in 2. Must have done it with age/as I was moving the hoses around as engine was running fine, no lean codes. From where the break was it was accessible from the top. I ended up getting a 15mm straight coupler to rejoin it, saved a bit of faff for once :)
The O ring for the dipstick tube installs in a groove inside the hole. Sliding it over the tube does not put it in the proper position.
Awesome video, but I have a question - Would it be easier to just remove the intake manifold to do this? I plan on replacing everything under the intake (starter, OFHG, CCV system, VANOS oil line, VANOS rebuild, etc) while I'm in there. Also, if I remove the intake manifold, would I be able to keep the throttle body attached to the intake? I didn't buy a new TB gasket but I'm planning to start this project tomorrow. Hope to hear from you soon, thanks :)
Crankcase gases directed to the intake manifold is a bad idea.
Environmental requirement, to the detriment of the engine.
Really helpful video keep up the awesome work. And now a silly question, if I lubricate the o rings with silicon spray instead of the silicon grease that you have will be the same thing ? Thanks
I just did this and now my crank case pressure is pretty high and it’s harder to take the oil cap off should I be concerned
On the upper boot of intake the vacuum connector that looks like an F the lower small plastic hose that goes down where dose that hose connect to I was replacing the boot and that hose got disconnect on the bottom and I don't know where the t connect to
Thanks for making this. Appreciate you sharing the know how. Between you, Pelican Parts and Shop Life I've saved a decent amount on paying for someone else to do work.
Right! These three have saved me so much money!
Can a bad pcv valve on this car cause a little rattling or tapping kind of noise? It does not sound like its the engine itself
I just got the ccv off thanks to this video, I'm looking at the new one and gathering energy to get it in. Thank for your your videos
My 2004 330xi turned into a smoke machine due to a failed CCV. Im not used to working on BMWs so I couldn’t have changed it myself without your videos. Thank you!
Amazing Step-by-Step!!! This vid is some of the best i have ever seen. Quite Detailed, thorough, and super informative. 50's kid should be working for Chilton, Hanes, or Bentley. 2 Thumbs Up👍👍
Nice video. This is how I chose to do mine and it beats taking off the intake manifold any day. Just need to feel for the connectors because you can’t see them directly
Tried this got some of it done unfortunately my lower back can't handle the task
Great videos, definitely very helpful
Good shit man. Love your videos very educational and money saving.
One of those weird jobs where 80% of the work is moving other stuff out of the way :)
Is it worth removing and cleaning out the rocker box if there's gunk in there as well?
long term yes
Fantastic video!! Thank you for all you do for the BMW community, it's huge!!!
Major thanks for doing this vid so really well. Just done mine. But didn't need doing :( 120k all clear inside..
Damn. Who would have thought, so much work, for such a little part...
Yo, dude!
Just wanted to say thanks for the trick to getting this off. I used this video to figure out how to get off my original CCV so I can retrofit an oil catch can.
Cheers!
Eres un genio amigo mío gracias! Seguí tus pasos, gracias
Awesome video. Thank you man. It is a big help.
Thanks for posting this DIY. Really appreciate it, sir. Going to be working on my M54 Z3 CCV and oil filter housing gasket.
My 9000 Aero has a little ball valve that takes two seconds to change and it makes like 350 horsepower. All my German cars always have a PCV system with like 10+ components.
Le has salvado la vida a mi e46 con este vídeo mil gracias
Thanks for great video...at 20:58 you mention there is a wire....is there a name to it? Mine is missing...the clip side is stuck in the manifold side. If this is a wire it will probably not cause p0171 p0174 codes...I was hoping it was a hose. Any suggestions. Thanks again2005 bmw x3 3.0
that's the air temperature sensor, must be plugged in.
This is what i mean when i refer to youtube certified thank you 🙏
hi mate just wondering do u do ccv vid 4 318i n42 motor
Can i use your tutorial for 2003 z4 e85?
Is this a hard job I have a 325i 2001 and are they easy to work on
You're a good man, thanks for posting this.
I cant skip around in these videos because there is so much good information. Thank you
Thanks for the videos. I have done this before on an E46 and an E39, but nice to watch a refresher. I would love to send you a picture of a plastic piece I found just setting on the block when I got the manifold off. I am usually very good at recognizing where things come from, but I cannot figure out what this piece goes to.
Sure
@@50sKid please send an email to scottrshaw.ss@gmail.com and I'll attach the pictures. Thanks!
Hi. Thanks for the good videos. Does it take some time for the smoke in tailpipe to end after CCV replacement? How long?
Update: I saw smoke even after CCV replacement. I drove the car in the highway for about an hour to burn the oil that was left in the lines before CCV replacement. Fortunayely, the theory worked and the smoke is gone now.
Merci pour cette excellente vidéo 👍
I just want to thank you so much for these videos! Really helped out!
Did this job on Tuesday morning , wasn't too bad after watching this video 5+ times. Whenever I got done reinstalling everything and making sure all connections and sensors were exactly where they were before I even removed anything, I went to start my car and it fired right up but then immediately died on me. Its been doing that every single time. If I start it up and press the gas it still dies immediately with little to no response on the pedal. I just put a brand new fuel pump in a few days before the CCV replacement. Ive checked the pressure at the fuel rail and fuel sprayed out and I hear the fuel pump priming every time I turn the key. I've went back over my work multiple times and made sure everything was cleaned and put back together where it was suppose to be and I still get this start but dies every single time I try. I'm confused and lost and could really use some help. Idk if anyone will see or reply to this though
New disa valve, new injectors (2 months old or so), new camshaft position sensors , fuel filter is a year old
Everything is properly connected and should be working fine
Do you need to drain the oil to do this?
What is the best make to get ccv system
Would ccv be the reason of having rough idle on cold start early morning when temp is cold around -2?
I have the same problem. Whoever had the car before me set an alarm to go off when it is 37 outside? I realized that is when the problems start. Also when I drive it lurches and won't shift gears(sometimes)
@@davewalters224 You solved the problem? if so, what was the reason? thanks.
Thank you very much, from france
Don’t you need to change your values when doing this ?
wouldnt it be better to just delete ccv and use a catch can
Is there a way to remove the top hose only ?
Thanks for this great vid
Awesome videos man! Anytime I always check your channel first to see if you've done a diy. Just did this ccv replacement yesterday and the only thing I would add to your diy is to remove the purge solenoid bracket too. I struggled for awhile to get that top hose on until I removed that bracket. Went right in on my first try. Keep up the good work man!
That's interesting. I've never needed to remove that bracket--why do you think it helped you?
With the bracket on it was kind of a weird angle to get the upper hose to line up with the ccv. With the bracket out of the way I could easily fit my left arm right up against the intake manifold and line up the hose with the ccv without any weird angles. It also gave me more room to install the breather hose as well. I'd say the best thing about this install was cleaning the ICV. Mine was so clogged that it's surprising it even worked. Before cleaning it my car would bog down every time I let off the throttle while in gear and made shifting rather uncomfortable. Now I can easily shift without the car bogging down when I let off the throttle. This and the DISA overhaul have made my engine run so smooth that I'm blown away. Next job is the vanos and VC/VCG. Thanks again for all your videos. I've done a ton of work on my car using your videos and you've saved me thousands!
Please correct me .if the oil filer cap has strong suction when engine running at idle.that means the ccv is bad?
yes it is
Thank you. Mr. #1. Awesome.!!!!!!
Bro Ive fixed my 2005 325I so many times thanks to you . THank you so very much . Because of you my baby stays on the road
PCV on my 9000 Aero takes 5 minutes to replace the entire system--on my 951 and 330Ci its forcing hose jungle, unseen bolts, crouching crank vent/hidden click connector. Wunderbar.