I have x4 bikes with Hope brakes, Tech4 & 3 plus a set of 2008 mini mono’s. Have found this video extremely helpful with their bleeding. Have just completed the process as per that shown on the video with my Atherton AM.130’s Tech4 brakes with excellent results. Thanks for posting
Yep, trying to do this, it seems to suck in a bunch of air when I do it (yes, closing the bleed nipple right after). It seems more like the position of the caliper, un-bolting it, is important. Unfortunately, you are essentially trying to bleed brakes "backwards" with Hope, air bubbles don't naturally want to go down (to the caliper), so it gets real frustrating real quick.
If you are doing this with the pads still in place, start to push the pads back by the backing plates. There are winged edges you can slowly push back, if you do either side of the pad you'll push the pistons back in evenly. Once there is enough space between both pads, you can get a flat tool in there, something like a Park PP-1.2 to help with the rest.
Followed the video just now and successfully bled my Hope tech 3's. Thank you for the great insight! The only thing that surprised me was the rubber spacer built into the lever cap itself. Great bit of engineering, thank you.
I like how HOPE is like a normal motorcycle brakes where you don't need to vacuum anything to draw out the air, just pump it until it's cleared. much more liquid in the reserve tank. love it
@@Sidowse for hope, I could just fill the reserve tank and pump. Were as for SRAM and others, you need one or two syringe and other small tools. I don't know about u but if you feel bleeding brakes on hope is difficult, I feel sorry for you...
@@randomlonglegcat7973 for Hope brakes you have to secure the bike. Level the reservoir, undo two screws etc and then "Pump" and that doesn't always work. Shimano etc you just undo a bleed screw at the top and with the syringe attached, need not worry about spillage. Also, read some of the other comments on here from other people.
Just so I understand, you do not use a block like you would other brands. You just leave the pads in, bleed the system and then back the pads back therefor pushing the fluid back out the top where you then seal the system?
@@nopenada8071 you can technically bleed any brake with a bleed nipple like this, with the pads in there not enough space to pop out a piston. the pads just allow you to skip the press up step, but prevents you from pushing out pistons to get any tough bubbles in the caliper, other brands like Sram compensate for this with a vacuum bleed at the caliper.
Just reading comments and, in my view, this process is more straightforward and reliable than that of Avid or Shimano. The reason the pistons are pushed out and back in is to dislodge air bubbles that may be trapped behind or around the piston. The reason for doing this is mostly due to the size of the components and the actual flow rate of the fluid while bleeding, i.e. the flow rate of the fluid, when the lever is pulled back, is nowhere near rapid enough to create vortices that will dislodge air bubbles. It's still better than Shimano and Avid as they suggest tapping the parts in the hope of dislodging the air bubbles and reverse bleeding. P.S. Cycle Tech UK is spot on with cleaning the pistons before pushing them back as this reduces the chance of damaging the delicate piston seals and thus the possibility of drawing air in and/or leaking fluid out!
To lubreacte the pistons and seals Hope use plumbers silicone rubber lube (Hunters). However silicone lube can't be used with DOT 5.0 brake fluid as it silicone based and will 'wash off'. A good quality (Castrol is one of the best) Red Rubber Grease is good option for the. Red Rubber Grease, normally Vegetable Oil based, is actually designed for the lubrication of hydraulic brake components during assembly so will not ‘wash off’ as readily. Silicone based brake fluid has a has better heat handling capacity over DOT 2,3,4 so, considering the small components, is a good choice for bike brakes (remember the Hope C2 when they got hot) but it tends to brake down the seals prematurely especially if the seals aren’t designed to be used with silicone fluid. So enter DOT 5.1 like DOT 2,3,4 is glycol based with a similar heat handling capacity as DOT 5.0 but not as searching. I’m not a trained cycle mechanic so I have learned this form research and trying to understand what I’m entrusting my life with. If any of you guys out there know better please comment.
Well, with Shimano, you are pushing fluid from the caliper up, air bubbles naturally want to go up and your calipers are below the level of the levers, so it tends to work quite well. They have that part well thought out.
@@JamesNoBrakes with Shimano, because mineral oil is hydrscopic (will not absorb water) you tend to get a pocket of water down at the caliper (since water always finds its way in, eventually). So you need to do a full purge anyway...doesn't matter whether you do this at the caliper end or the reservoir... the point is to flush the system completely of all the old oil...any water or air will naturally be forced out
@@bluestraycat It does matter, because any fitting possibly allows some air in and you are trying to fight the natural direction of the air with this bleed technique. Whether it's pushing fluid in with shimano or having it come out with hope, that action allows some air back into the caliper. At least with Shimano everything is going the right way and will work to the high point, but trying to go the opposite direction with hope leads to trapped air. Sorry, it's a piss poor idea.
@@JamesNoBrakes No it is not. Shimano steps to bleed the calipers are flicking the lever violently then open the bleed port in the caliper with the same setup like in the video. The really key part to bleed the caliper fully is move the pistons in and out like in the video,locking 1 side and expose those pistons out(suck in more oil that the final brake would have) and then open the bleed port and push back the pistons.
First off great vid chaps! Got me out of a squeeze today in just over 20 mins! The easy bleed kit really is just that! Managed to rip the hose out of the calliper on a dumbass walking pace tumble today and this got me back out in less than half hour.
Can you use a spacer block between the pads to avoid the need to spread them? Or does that part of the process let you account for air that might be in the caliper?
@hopetech : Stupid question perhaps, but don't don't bubbles naturally rise to the top ? So why don't you push in new oil from the bottom with a syringe and let the bubbles come out into the bleed tool on top of the reservoir ? I'm know how to bleeding Shimano brakes, but some blue Hope v4's are on the way for my Husqvarna 2021 MC8. Is it because of the thickness of the dot 5.1 fluid vs the mineral oil in Shimano brakes ? I would like to understand the reason for this. Thx.
why not leave the reservoir cup on top while you push the pistons in so any excess oil goes back into the cup rather than spill onto the levers and bars?
The reservoir contains clean brake fluid. If you keep that on, the clean oil can get contaminated with parts of old fluid. If you remove the reservoir in time, you can pour it back into the canister.
Worked lile a charm and i never did bleeding on any break before. Im just kind of stucked with rear brake where i had to take the hose out as i had to rpute it through the frame, small portion of bubbles still come out. The break itself isnt spongy so I guess i just ride it a bit and then rebleed.
Surprising to see that the official process involves spilling so much brake fluid over the brake lever! And I will have to work out my own process for my O2/C2 brakes! 😀
With all that brilliant engineering and top notch machining would it be that bloody hard to put a bleed port on top of the reservoir? Seriously guys...
Thanks Dan you legend. Amazing tutorial for the superior bleeding method for a superior set of brakes. However nothing is perfect and there are a few improvements. 1. Remove the brake pads before starting to make life easy. This will also give you a chance to lube & realign the pistons. 2. Use a block of wood or something hard as a chock for the pistons once you start bleeding. This also ensures theres no air trapped behind the pistons as they are not extended out. 3. Money Saving tip (use at your own risk): Once you notice all the old fluid has bled out and only air and new fluid is in the pipe, pour the new fluid coming out back into the reservouir as you continue to take the air bubbles out. Throw away old fluid though, thats not good for anything. Happy shredding 🤙
Exactly, just did the bleeding on both front and rear, and I did 1. and 2. as you described. I had a plastic block from a previous bleeding kit that worked just wonders to keep the pads in. Everything went well, but just keep the funnel mounted until you have completely retracted the pistons at the end, so you don't mess oil around as on the video. The one thing that was a pain was realigning completely new pads, there is so little clearance. The pistons must really be fully in 100%, and I didn't managed it completely at the front, so a little rub for a couple of rides I guess... P. S: did a good relub of the pistons with silicon lub: perfect result, that's all it took. But I used the brake lever to get them out and the center part of a flat wrench to get them back in. Back and forth with lub each time. No rub!
brilliant video and advice, but can i add that when you spill the brake fluid do not rub it! firstly use water to remove it then use brake cleaner and rub it...
for the rear break, after a full piston service. I found it hard to remove the air from the caliper with it mounted on the bike. Make sure beofre you start the bleeding that you remove the caliper and hang it so gravity does the job to remove the air. this happened since back pistons are higher than the bleeding port and air won't come out.
Don't want to play the wise-ass here, but try connecting an electric pump to the caliper and go from bottom up - You gonna need max. 3 minutes per brake and will skip all of the loosening-pumping-tightening. Look for any battery powered mini pump for petrol on Your local market and set the voltage to the lowest possible value for a pump to still work. The rest is just a transparent hose and a towel. Or possibly more easily, connect a BIG hypodermic syringe filled with a brake fluid to the calliper. Because the bubbles like to go upwards.
I did this method 3 times and still had bubbles trapped in the system - once I started to play with Syringe at the caliper I was able to get rid of all the air trapped within the caliper area. I recommend anyone watching this video to work with syringes instead of pumping the lever all the time to avoid wasting time and trying to figuring out why is the air trapped here and there and having to unscrew the caliper
@@chrissnowden7078fill syringe with fluid, connect at caliper end, open reservoir at the lever, push the fluid from bottom to the top, done. To be 100% sure I did also the other way around. You may also want to try to push the lever multiple times with the reservoir open to make sure no air is within the lever itself.
Hope breaks are the best I ever had. Unfortunately I had to sell mine and now I don’t have hope breaks anymore. I never had to bleed my Hope brakes and they worked flawlessly for years
Personally, i would have taken the pads out to avoid ANY contamination. Plus i would lower the bike in the stand alot more. When taking that reservoir cap off initially if the bike is that high you've got a massive chance of dropping a scree because your messing around wiyh small screws above head hight. He even struggled to get the tool into the screws themselfs. Not that im saying he's no idea what he is dooing but the execution could of been alot better.
Can anyone explain why I always get the kit with small filling cup ? Even though every ad shows large cup I get smaller cup and it comes straight from Hope
Love the reserve tank. A great idea as the fourth pump will suck air into the master cylinder. I prefer to ease the brake lever out to avoid any chance of air getting sucked pas the piston seals. It's probably not necessary but makes me feel better.
I just installed Hope Tech 4 V4 brakes and followed the instructions from various videos. The levers have a good bite but the calipers seem to stay sticking out, which rubs on the rotors as they spin. Is this normal??
So how many NM should you tighten the bleed cap? And question to any owners of theses breaks my breaks have been bleed 4 times by a bike shop they called hope and hope told them to swap out the cable so they did well still having the same problem so when I flip the bike upside down the break losses pressure the the front break doesn't do this at all and when I first bought this set neither was the rear I ride a lot so sometimes I have to flip my bike upside down to work on it.. does anyone know what it could be?
Why not use a syringe to push fluid and bubbles back up into master cylinder? If you have a bubble near the top of the hose it is nigh on impossible to send it to the bottom using this method.
Dont I have to put the lever straight down and pump it to make sure there's no air in the Main piston? You show it in an other video on the @hopetech page
just received my easy bleed kit. the clear hose that is meant to attach to the nipple fitting has an internal diameter of around 3mm, meanwhile the nipple fitting has an external diameter of around 5.5mm. How tf am I supposed to get the hose onto the nipple fitting?
Personally I would let the disk sit between the pads (just leave your wheel mounted during the bleed) and then basically give them a good clean with some disc brake cleaner after your done with bleeding.
Just dont let brake pads when you are bleedind your brakes .... when its contamined with any oil or brake cleaner just go to the trash and buy new one , so keep them out of the way plz
Why would you not just have a top cap that has a screw in it for the easy bleed to use? Seems weird to have to remove the top cap to then put another top cap on to then put the bleed kit on…
Yes, you can. You can mix DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 (NOTE: NOT DOT 5 tho!!!) The drawback is that most brands of DOT 4 have a Lower minimum boiling point than DOT 5.1. Now there ARE DOT 4 brands that actually have a higher minimum boiling point than say a cheaper DOT 5.1- for instance I use DOT 4 made by Motul (RBF 600) and it’s MBP wet is 195C which is petty high. It’s for racing brakes I use on my track car (2006 GTO)
This is the same method as motorbike brakes. I would suggest pumping the lever, then hold the lever, crack the caliper nipper open (still holding the lever), then closer the nipple. This is a surefire way of getting no air in the system.
Would be nice that a light was used when your doing the pistons pulling back, so it shows better what you do. Hope that "HOPE" will engineer a nice easy bleed system like Shimano or Sram. This way off bleeding is needing much time.
Does it matter if I use “bike specific” fluid or can I use the stuff marketed to cars. I assume they are the same thing and I’ve read forums saying it’s fine.
generally each manufacturer has their own specified fluid to use but that's one advantage of using dot fluid. while there are multiple types of DOT fluid, ones that shouldn't be used in a bike brake like this, you can use whatever type as long as its the same type. you may find different DOT fluids like what sram uses vs a different company. as long as it says dot "4" or dot "5.1" or whatever type of dot fluid hope uses then you should be fine.
This is exactly how you bleed car and motorcycle brakes. Not sure why people don’t understand this. The air is forced out by the new fluid being forced into the system. Have you ever bled car brakes before? If so, where the results successful? Now, i will concede that rotating the caliper so that the bleed nipple port is oriented upwards, but this is a tried and true method of bleeding Hope brakes. You just need to keep pumping new fluid thru the system until you see no air bubbles coming through the exit hose. There are other methods that may work for you, but for me, having owned 4 sets of Hope brakes over 20 years now, this method works great. YMMV tho
Why not leave front wheel on? Instead of recking pads with a screw driver.... And I've always had success bleeding by syringing fluid from caliper to lever ,to push the air upwards and out
Best practice, remove pads, clean pistons and push fully back. Fit a plastic block in place of the pads while bleeding. Making it a better and quicker bleed.
@@CycleTechUK so before bleeding: 1. clean and push pistons fully back 2. fit block 3. follow steps in this video (ignoring the bit about fiddling with the pistons)?
@@meredithmurphy7227 yeah same question here as I am about to install/cut a new hose and bleed for the first time ever a brake! Looks simple except for that caliper/piston thing where we couldn't see a thing.. I just don't want to have air trapped over there! :/
Found it hard to watch that, dont know why was doing things one handed spoke about the level in top and never showed us also about bubbles going back in and didn't show us. Turned off at this point to find another video.
You don’t HAVE to use it- it’s just much easier with it. You can do it without it but you’ll need to keep topping off the reservoir with fluid after 1-2 pumps of the lever and closing the bleed nipple. The reservoir top cap thingy is full of fluid so you don’t have to keep topping it off. Not necessary but makes the bleed process much, much quicker and easier
This such a fucking bad bleed method. You couldn’t have an integrated bleed port in the lever like Shimano??? Or just use syringes like Sram??? This has Dot fluid spilling everywhere and it is nasty to get onto your bike...
There's no any special bleed port on shimano lever nor anyone. There's bleed port on caliper. And it's not dot. And bleed method is universaly same. Easy method is seen in your imagination or in shimano's adversiting booklet. Shimano is the same as chinese. No warranty, bad design, if to talk about brakes.
The video gets the point across but makes me cringe. If I saw a tech doing this, I would find another tech. The easy bleed cap should have had the diaphragm volume included in it. sloppy!!!
This is a pretty frustrating video, although I’ve admittedly watched it several times when bleeding my hopes. It can be condensed and edited for the minimum required amount of time. And, yes, unfortunately there is no adequate lighting during the section on releasing air from behind the pistons. That would help a lot. For those who said the bleeding process for hopes is easy, perhaps they’ve never owned Shimano or TRPs. Easier and much less mess. Hopes are the most frustrating brakes I’ve owned. Temperamental is an understatement. These brakes require a high tolerance for frustration. Also, they’re simply horrible for the environment. Any brakes that have dot fluid spilling out in such quantity when resetting caps and releasing drain hoses are lame AF. Not to mention the mess. Tip: only let your pads wear halfway at most before changing. And, hopes heat up a lot. I think they require bleeding more often because of this. Just a theory though. Also, regardless of how many instructions I follow to bleed correctly, over time the pistons extend and reset at different lengths causing all sorts of rotor rub. Perhaps the calipers are in need of rebuilding, but you’re just not going to need to do that on low mileage Shimano, TRP or Sram.
Looks like and Advertisement for SRAM and Shimano breaks! what a shitty method this was to bleed Hope brakes. Hope is a great company and makes great products, but they really need to get it together with their tutorials. This is embarrassing and makes their brakes seem waaaaay more complicated than they actually are to bleed.
Attention: My experience with this system...Enduro Hope Tech. Never ever again.This system incl a design error as the brake pistons can suddenly lock during your ride. I never had that issue with any other brake like, e.g. Sram or Magura MT7 and it has nothing to do with changing the Dot from time to time. I renewed the Dot completely and it took me almost an hour to get the back brake pistons to work again.disaster. i think this is a design issue of this break.
I have x4 bikes with Hope brakes, Tech4 & 3 plus a set of 2008 mini mono’s.
Have found this video extremely helpful with their bleeding. Have just completed the process as per that shown on the video with my Atherton AM.130’s Tech4 brakes with excellent results. Thanks for posting
Could do with more light when pushing the pistons back as too dark to see what exactly you are doing , thanks
Yep, trying to do this, it seems to suck in a bunch of air when I do it (yes, closing the bleed nipple right after). It seems more like the position of the caliper, un-bolting it, is important. Unfortunately, you are essentially trying to bleed brakes "backwards" with Hope, air bubbles don't naturally want to go down (to the caliper), so it gets real frustrating real quick.
If you are doing this with the pads still in place, start to push the pads back by the backing plates. There are winged edges you can slowly push back, if you do either side of the pad you'll push the pistons back in evenly. Once there is enough space between both pads, you can get a flat tool in there, something like a Park PP-1.2 to help with the rest.
Just use a bleed block
Followed the video just now and successfully bled my Hope tech 3's. Thank you for the great insight! The only thing that surprised me was the rubber spacer built into the lever cap itself. Great bit of engineering, thank you.
Great bit of engineering is nit having a bleed port on top cap like every single other brand. Idiots...
Thanks for the great video - I managed to bleed my brake based on your tutorial - great job!
I like how HOPE is like a normal motorcycle brakes where you don't need to vacuum anything to draw out the air, just pump it until it's cleared. much more liquid in the reserve tank. love it
Hope brakes are one of if not the worst to bleed. Others use syringes which minimises spillage. Even their latest tech 4 brakes are still crap.
@@Sidowse for hope, I could just fill the reserve tank and pump. Were as for SRAM and others, you need one or two syringe and other small tools. I don't know about u but if you feel bleeding brakes on hope is difficult, I feel sorry for you...
@@randomlonglegcat7973 Others just do it better. You can send in fluid from the bottom/calliper.
@@Sidowse yea, cool, but why go through the hussle of syringe if you can just fill the reservoir and pump? I just don't get it.
@@randomlonglegcat7973 for Hope brakes you have to secure the bike. Level the reservoir, undo two screws etc and then "Pump" and that doesn't always work. Shimano etc you just undo a bleed screw at the top and with the syringe attached, need not worry about spillage. Also, read some of the other comments on here from other people.
From 8:19 Keep the easy bleed tool attached while you push pistons back. Stops a lot of fluid overflowing everywhere.
Just so I understand, you do not use a block like you would other brands. You just leave the pads in, bleed the system and then back the pads back therefor pushing the fluid back out the top where you then seal the system?
@@nopenada8071 you can technically bleed any brake with a bleed nipple like this, with the pads in there not enough space to pop out a piston. the pads just allow you to skip the press up step, but prevents you from pushing out pistons to get any tough bubbles in the caliper, other brands like Sram compensate for this with a vacuum bleed at the caliper.
Just reading comments and, in my view, this process is more straightforward and reliable than that of Avid or Shimano. The reason the pistons are pushed out and back in is to dislodge air bubbles that may be trapped behind or around the piston. The reason for doing this is mostly due to the size of the components and the actual flow rate of the fluid while bleeding, i.e. the flow rate of the fluid, when the lever is pulled back, is nowhere near rapid enough to create vortices that will dislodge air bubbles.
It's still better than Shimano and Avid as they suggest tapping the parts in the hope of dislodging the air bubbles and reverse bleeding.
P.S. Cycle Tech UK is spot on with cleaning the pistons before pushing them back as this reduces the chance of damaging the delicate piston seals and thus the possibility of drawing air in and/or leaking fluid out!
To lubreacte the pistons and seals Hope use plumbers silicone rubber lube (Hunters). However silicone lube can't be used with DOT 5.0 brake fluid as it silicone based and will 'wash off'.
A good quality (Castrol is one of the best) Red Rubber Grease is good option for the. Red Rubber Grease, normally Vegetable Oil based, is actually designed for the lubrication of hydraulic brake components during assembly so will not ‘wash off’ as readily.
Silicone based brake fluid has a has better heat handling capacity over DOT 2,3,4 so, considering the small components, is a good choice for bike brakes (remember the Hope C2 when they got hot) but it tends to brake down the seals prematurely especially if the seals aren’t designed to be used with silicone fluid. So enter DOT 5.1 like DOT 2,3,4 is glycol based with a similar heat handling capacity as DOT 5.0 but not as searching.
I’m not a trained cycle mechanic so I have learned this form research and trying to understand what I’m entrusting my life with. If any of you guys out there know better please comment.
Well, with Shimano, you are pushing fluid from the caliper up, air bubbles naturally want to go up and your calipers are below the level of the levers, so it tends to work quite well. They have that part well thought out.
@@JamesNoBrakes with Shimano, because mineral oil is hydrscopic (will not absorb water) you tend to get a pocket of water down at the caliper (since water always finds its way in, eventually). So you need to do a full purge anyway...doesn't matter whether you do this at the caliper end or the reservoir... the point is to flush the system completely of all the old oil...any water or air will naturally be forced out
@@bluestraycat It does matter, because any fitting possibly allows some air in and you are trying to fight the natural direction of the air with this bleed technique. Whether it's pushing fluid in with shimano or having it come out with hope, that action allows some air back into the caliper. At least with Shimano everything is going the right way and will work to the high point, but trying to go the opposite direction with hope leads to trapped air. Sorry, it's a piss poor idea.
@@JamesNoBrakes No it is not. Shimano steps to bleed the calipers are flicking the lever violently then open the bleed port in the caliper with the same setup like in the video. The really key part to bleed the caliper fully is move the pistons in and out like in the video,locking 1 side and expose those pistons out(suck in more oil that the final brake would have) and then open the bleed port and push back the pistons.
First off great vid chaps! Got me out of a squeeze today in just over 20 mins! The easy bleed kit really is just that! Managed to rip the hose out of the calliper on a dumbass walking pace tumble today and this got me back out in less than half hour.
I got my brakes hope4 v4 bleed, thank you for video, its quite easy after you watch video few times and go and do it slowly
Can you use a spacer block between the pads to avoid the need to spread them? Or does that part of the process let you account for air that might be in the caliper?
@hopetech : Stupid question perhaps, but don't don't bubbles naturally rise to the top ? So why don't you push in new oil from the bottom with a syringe and let the bubbles come out into the bleed tool on top of the reservoir ? I'm know how to bleeding Shimano brakes, but some blue Hope v4's are on the way for my Husqvarna 2021 MC8. Is it because of the thickness of the dot 5.1 fluid vs the mineral oil in Shimano brakes ? I would like to understand the reason for this. Thx.
why not leave the reservoir cup on top while you push the pistons in so any excess oil goes back into the cup rather than spill onto the levers and bars?
Why would you remove the reservoir before you push the piston back at 8:15?
The reservoir contains clean brake fluid. If you keep that on, the clean oil can get contaminated with parts of old fluid.
If you remove the reservoir in time, you can pour it back into the canister.
@@bjorne46 it dont matter
@@AlexeiPavlov it does matter if you want to get clean fluids in the system. But everybody has their own quality standards I guess.
For some reason i cant get it work on mine. Never had any issue with shimano or sram bleeds... just stumped on what the issue could be.
That super easy bleeding will highly probably lead me to new breaks from Hope. :)
Worked lile a charm and i never did bleeding on any break before. Im just kind of stucked with rear brake where i had to take the hose out as i had to rpute it through the frame, small portion of bubbles still come out. The break itself isnt spongy so I guess i just ride it a bit and then rebleed.
Surprising to see that the official process involves spilling so much brake fluid over the brake lever! And I will have to work out my own process for my O2/C2 brakes! 😀
With all that brilliant engineering and top notch machining would it be that bloody hard to put a bleed port on top of the reservoir? Seriously guys...
I am walking across my room, hitting walls with my forehead and yelling WHY.
How would they sell extra unique tools for maximum boonies if they did that though?
Moto style baby
Or you could leave the bleeding cap on & use a bolt to fill the hole.
@@rhettcorbett3346Sorry, I’m confused by this suggestion- leave the cap on and use a “bolt to fill hole”? Could you elaborate on this?
I've recently bought a set of Trial Zones so this video will come in handy when I need to bleed them.
Thanks Dan you legend.
Amazing tutorial for the superior bleeding method for a superior set of brakes. However nothing is perfect and there are a few improvements.
1. Remove the brake pads before starting to make life easy. This will also give you a chance to lube & realign the pistons.
2. Use a block of wood or something hard as a chock for the pistons once you start bleeding. This also ensures theres no air trapped behind the pistons as they are not extended out.
3. Money Saving tip (use at your own risk): Once you notice all the old fluid has bled out and only air and new fluid is in the pipe, pour the new fluid coming out back into the reservouir as you continue to take the air bubbles out.
Throw away old fluid though, thats not good for anything.
Happy shredding 🤙
Exactly, just did the bleeding on both front and rear, and I did 1. and 2. as you described. I had a plastic block from a previous bleeding kit that worked just wonders to keep the pads in.
Everything went well, but just keep the funnel mounted until you have completely retracted the pistons at the end, so you don't mess oil around as on the video.
The one thing that was a pain was realigning completely new pads, there is so little clearance. The pistons must really be fully in 100%, and I didn't managed it completely at the front, so a little rub for a couple of rides I guess...
P. S: did a good relub of the pistons with silicon lub: perfect result, that's all it took. But I used the brake lever to get them out and the center part of a flat wrench to get them back in. Back and forth with lub each time. No rub!
I wish there had been a light illuminating the caliper when Dan was working on the pistons. It was impossible to see what was going on.
brilliant video and advice, but can i add that when you spill the brake fluid do not rub it! firstly use water to remove it then use brake cleaner and rub it...
for the rear break, after a full piston service. I found it hard to remove the air from the caliper with it mounted on the bike. Make sure beofre you start the bleeding that you remove the caliper and hang it so gravity does the job to remove the air. this happened since back pistons are higher than the bleeding port and air won't come out.
your idea is true and i will try it but if i hang the caliper,that nipple position is up or down sir?
@@METEORA_47upwards- so air will go out more easily
@@paulmaul thanks.I appreciate it and it is very helpful
would OK if there was a syringe, if it hangs it become mega difficult to work with
Don't want to play the wise-ass here, but try connecting an electric pump to the caliper and go from bottom up - You gonna need max. 3 minutes per brake and will skip all of the loosening-pumping-tightening. Look for any battery powered mini pump for petrol on Your local market and set the voltage to the lowest possible value for a pump to still work. The rest is just a transparent hose and a towel. Or possibly more easily, connect a BIG hypodermic syringe filled with a brake fluid to the calliper. Because the bubbles like to go upwards.
I did this method 3 times and still had bubbles trapped in the system - once I started to play with Syringe at the caliper I was able to get rid of all the air trapped within the caliper area. I recommend anyone watching this video to work with syringes instead of pumping the lever all the time to avoid wasting time and trying to figuring out why is the air trapped here and there and having to unscrew the caliper
What technique did you use with the syringe?
@@chrissnowden7078fill syringe with fluid, connect at caliper end, open reservoir at the lever, push the fluid from bottom to the top, done. To be 100% sure I did also the other way around. You may also want to try to push the lever multiple times with the reservoir open to make sure no air is within the lever itself.
@@DeplatedGreat, thank you. Bottom to top makes total sense in terms of where the air will actually want to go
@@Deplatedhow did you connect the syringe to the reservoir?
@@owenmckee4053 with a gum tube, similar you use for aquarium stuff :)
Amazing video I just did my hope tech 4 e4s thanks man ur the man
Hope breaks are the best I ever had. Unfortunately I had to sell mine and now I don’t have hope breaks anymore. I never had to bleed my Hope brakes and they worked flawlessly for years
at @5:57 you saying "just back the bleed port off" wtf does it mean? close it or open it?
When you push the pistons do you do it with the pads on?
No! Take them off.
What's the best method for the rear? Unbolt one of the caliper bolts to rotate the rear caliper so it's up right like the front?
Ok so where do we get on board for some hope tech polo shirts just like the one Dan is rocking out with in this video?
Do you put something between the pads to keep the pistons from coming out too far?
Personally, i would have taken the pads out to avoid ANY contamination. Plus i would lower the bike in the stand alot more. When taking that reservoir cap off initially if the bike is that high you've got a massive chance of dropping a scree because your messing around wiyh small screws above head hight. He even struggled to get the tool into the screws themselfs.
Not that im saying he's no idea what he is dooing but the execution could of been alot better.
Can anyone explain why I always get the kit with small filling cup ? Even though every ad shows large cup I get smaller cup and it comes straight from Hope
Love the reserve tank. A great idea as the fourth pump will suck air into the master cylinder. I prefer to ease the brake lever out to avoid any chance of air getting sucked pas the piston seals. It's probably not necessary but makes me feel better.
I'm not lovin' any reserve tank and jou can't make me! 😉
When pushing the pads, piston and you "back off the bleed port" does that mean do it with the bleed port open or closed
Open as it’ll then push the air out of the system rather than keeping it in the system
yeah was not clear about that too, he's using some f up english language too
I just installed Hope Tech 4 V4 brakes and followed the instructions from various videos. The levers have a good bite but the calipers seem to stay sticking out, which rubs on the rotors as they spin. Is this normal??
So how many NM should you tighten the bleed cap? And question to any owners of theses breaks my breaks have been bleed 4 times by a bike shop they called hope and hope told them to swap out the cable so they did well still having the same problem so when I flip the bike upside down the break losses pressure the the front break doesn't do this at all and when I first bought this set neither was the rear I ride a lot so sometimes I have to flip my bike upside down to work on it.. does anyone know what it could be?
Thanks fot share. Which is de DOT? 5? kind regards
5.1
Tech 4 video available year ? Thanks
Any special lever position BPC or Reach?, Thanx!
Why not use a syringe to push fluid and bubbles back up into master cylinder? If you have a bubble near the top of the hose it is nigh on impossible to send it to the bottom using this method.
Fair point I cant seem to get all air out using this method
So de-gas a syringe first, then attach to the bleed nipple (at the caliper) and push it through the system in reverse?
Followed the video easy to do brakes are now solid 👌
Dont I have to put the lever straight down and pump it to make sure there's no air in the Main piston? You show it in an other video on the @hopetech page
just received my easy bleed kit. the clear hose that is meant to attach to the nipple fitting has an internal diameter of around 3mm, meanwhile the nipple fitting has an external diameter of around 5.5mm. How tf am I supposed to get the hose onto the nipple fitting?
Did they put a spacer between the brake pads? Or did they replace the brake pads with a spacer like when bleeding Shimano brakes?
Personally I would let the disk sit between the pads (just leave your wheel mounted during the bleed) and then basically give them a good clean with some disc brake cleaner after your done with bleeding.
Just dont let brake pads when you are bleedind your brakes .... when its contamined with any oil or brake cleaner just go to the trash and buy new one , so keep them out of the way plz
Why would you not just have a top cap that has a screw in it for the easy bleed to use? Seems weird to have to remove the top cap to then put another top cap on to then put the bleed kit on…
Where do I order the "extension oil holder" ? do you have any hope article nr of this product?
I misheard you and used for 5 oil… what can I do
i got that squishy sound for some reason in the lever, i guess its air trapped somehow, any ideas?
Hi i would like to ask if i can use a dot 4 on my hope v4?
Yes, you can. You can mix DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 (NOTE: NOT DOT 5 tho!!!) The drawback is that most brands of DOT 4 have a Lower minimum boiling point than DOT 5.1. Now there ARE DOT 4 brands that actually have a higher minimum boiling point than say a cheaper DOT 5.1- for instance I use DOT 4 made by Motul (RBF 600) and it’s MBP wet is 195C which is petty high. It’s for racing brakes I use on my track car (2006 GTO)
Do you put the bike too high and repair the brakeset?? Thats wrong
What's the best way to push pistons back ? Is there a tool I can use ?
me my self use tyre lever(plastic)
piston press
This is the same method as motorbike brakes. I would suggest pumping the lever, then hold the lever, crack the caliper nipper open (still holding the lever), then closer the nipple. This is a surefire way of getting no air in the system.
Would be nice that a light was used when your doing the pistons pulling back, so it shows better what you do. Hope that "HOPE" will engineer a nice easy bleed system like Shimano or Sram. This way off bleeding is needing much time.
These bleed like car or moto brakes, better than buying a ridiculous bleed kit that you use once.
Oh yeah?
My Tech 3 levers are coming closer and closer to my fingers until I have to release the lever and start again. Is that nornal?
You need to bleed them
@@eejjjj82 yep, it worked finally.
Does it matter if I use “bike specific” fluid or can I use the stuff marketed to cars. I assume they are the same thing and I’ve read forums saying it’s fine.
You can use whatever you want as long it's the same type of fluid.
generally each manufacturer has their own specified fluid to use but that's one advantage of using dot fluid. while there are multiple types of DOT fluid, ones that shouldn't be used in a bike brake like this, you can use whatever type as long as its the same type. you may find different DOT fluids like what sram uses vs a different company. as long as it says dot "4" or dot "5.1" or whatever type of dot fluid hope uses then you should be fine.
Strange how air manages to flow downwards with hope brakes
You are purging the system of all the old oil. The air is forced out with it.
This is exactly how you bleed car and motorcycle brakes. Not sure why people don’t understand this. The air is forced out by the new fluid being forced into the system. Have you ever bled car brakes before? If so, where the results successful? Now, i will concede that rotating the caliper so that the bleed nipple port is oriented upwards, but this is a tried and true method of bleeding Hope brakes. You just need to keep pumping new fluid thru the system until you see no air bubbles coming through the exit hose. There are other methods that may work for you, but for me, having owned 4 sets of Hope brakes over 20 years now, this method works great. YMMV tho
I see you oush brake fluid up to the lever when pushing back the pistons. Why not do that instead?
Thank you HOPE for making mountain bike brake bleeding common sense, like the motorcycle world I come from!
Where to buy the bleedkit tool?
Why not leave front wheel on?
Instead of recking pads with a screw driver....
And I've always had success bleeding by syringing fluid from caliper to lever ,to push the air upwards and out
most enthusiastic hope employee
yeah right , he sounds like he's goint to a retirement home
Hello what is it that makes the dieafram warped?my problem!
Same problem here...
The rubber on my pistons too ?Hope fluid next time ! I take you carnt use any mineral oil?
Nooo, I'm using their fluid or... whatever since you can buy it anywhere. Just make sure is DOT.
Normandy Kush pumping on the brakes while empty can do this, it sucks on the diaphragm and warps it
Still no bleed block? :-(
No need for one - with the bleed nipple open there is no pressure in the caliper.
thetart20 si when he pumps the brake lever the pistons are not moving ?
how to buy the kit in USA?
Can anyone help me qith replacing 1 piston on my V4 brake ?
I can’t see what’s going on with the screwdriver pushing at the pads/ or is it the pistons? Still confused: just where can I push without damaging?
Lund1128 push the pistons back using a screwdriver on the backplate of the pad against the face of the piston NOT the front face of the pad(disc side)
Best practice, remove pads, clean pistons and push fully back. Fit a plastic block in place of the pads while bleeding. Making it a better and quicker bleed.
@@CycleTechUK so before bleeding:
1. clean and push pistons fully back
2. fit block
3. follow steps in this video (ignoring the bit about fiddling with the pistons)?
@@meredithmurphy7227 yeah same question here as I am about to install/cut a new hose and bleed for the first time ever a brake! Looks simple except for that caliper/piston thing where we couldn't see a thing.. I just don't want to have air trapped over there! :/
@@CycleTechUK he pushes one side first then another with open port if u remove pads how u able to do that?? the air will go back up the pipe
Why don’t hope do a pictorial version/printable version of this as well as the video? Others have managed it!
Everyone seems to want videos now. Us "diagram readers" are in the minority.
when these tools will be available ?
If you google it they're for sale now.
cant find it
activesport.co/Hope-Easy-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Tech-3-Brake
Thanks
Thanks for leaving link Arnie v
That seemed messy and fiddly. Is that really the best way of doing that?
I was considering Hope for my next set of brakes. Having seen this pantomime I think I'll go with something else.
common mate you can do better than that!
Looks like an advertisement for cable actuated brakes.
🤣🤣🤣
Spilling dot fluid all over the place! What a mess to bleed.
Brilliant tutorial.. Took me a while but through my own mistake... Cheers
Found it hard to watch that, dont know why was doing things one handed spoke about the level in top and never showed us also about bubbles going back in and didn't show us. Turned off at this point to find another video.
The 5-6 minutes of messing around with the pistons could have been avoided by using a bleed block.
Thats the problem with hope.. needs to have specific top cap for for you to be able to bleed
Wrong. Just makes it easier ya donut
You don’t HAVE to use it- it’s just much easier with it. You can do it without it but you’ll need to keep topping off the reservoir with fluid after 1-2 pumps of the lever and closing the bleed nipple. The reservoir top cap thingy is full of fluid so you don’t have to keep topping it off. Not necessary but makes the bleed process much, much quicker and easier
what type of brake fluid ? mineral oil ???
Dot 5.1, he says right at the beginning of the video
I’ve had better results using the easy bleed tool and pushing fluid through the system from the calliper end with a syringe 👌🏻
Did you de-gas the syringe, attach to the nipple (caliper) and push fluid into the system in reverse?
This such a fucking bad bleed method. You couldn’t have an integrated bleed port in the lever like Shimano??? Or just use syringes like Sram??? This has Dot fluid spilling everywhere and it is nasty to get onto your bike...
There's no any special bleed port on shimano lever nor anyone. There's bleed port on caliper. And it's not dot. And bleed method is universaly same. Easy method is seen in your imagination or in shimano's adversiting booklet. Shimano is the same as chinese. No warranty, bad design, if to talk about brakes.
you should sell that funnel, its just stupid teach a method who no one can use.
xebapro
What are you talking about ? The funnel is widely available
@@justinholmes5614 were?
xebapro anywhere that sells hope brakes will sell the bleed kit.
planning to upgrade to hope but watching this video omg step 1 doesn't feel right already.
Hope is a serious downgrade.
Awesome brakes but the worst design system for bleeding ...
Que cagadero, son muy buenos pero muy dificiles y caros de arreglar!
such a messy bleed process
It's the same with all manufacturers, despite advertising
This method is so fidley
The video gets the point across but makes me cringe. If I saw a tech doing this, I would find another tech. The easy bleed cap should have had the diaphragm volume included in it. sloppy!!!
mmmm secondo me hai fatto uno spurgo di merda ! le bolle le hai messe 😂😂
Hope-best
Lmao hope brakes are shit bro
@@derekr7814cool story bro. Mine are awesome
Can you speak English I don't understand your accent also can you redo this video with light on calipers
brake pads must be pulled out of the caliper! fool you drip brake fluid on them and they are spoiled
😍 at the easy bleed tool
This is an insane video, mumbling over important steps, unnecessarily complicated process and we can’t see a thing.
This is a pretty frustrating video, although I’ve admittedly watched it several times when bleeding my hopes. It can be condensed and edited for the minimum required amount of time. And, yes, unfortunately there is no adequate lighting during the section on releasing air from behind the pistons. That would help a lot. For those who said the bleeding process for hopes is easy, perhaps they’ve never owned Shimano or TRPs. Easier and much less mess.
Hopes are the most frustrating brakes I’ve owned. Temperamental is an understatement. These brakes require a high tolerance for frustration. Also, they’re simply horrible for the environment. Any brakes that have dot fluid spilling out in such quantity when resetting caps and releasing drain hoses are lame AF. Not to mention the mess.
Tip: only let your pads wear halfway at most before changing. And, hopes heat up a lot. I think they require bleeding more often because of this. Just a theory though. Also, regardless of how many instructions I follow to bleed correctly, over time the pistons extend and reset at different lengths causing all sorts of rotor rub. Perhaps the calipers are in need of rebuilding, but you’re just not going to need to do that on low mileage Shimano, TRP or Sram.
Piu o meno come le moto
LOL another front bleed video.
Drew Shapiro it isn’t hard to bleed the rear, just make sure the bleed nipple is at the top
Looks like and Advertisement for SRAM and Shimano breaks! what a shitty method this was to bleed Hope brakes. Hope is a great company and makes great products, but they really need to get it together with their tutorials. This is embarrassing and makes their brakes seem waaaaay more complicated than they actually are to bleed.
Attention:
My experience with this system...Enduro Hope Tech.
Never ever again.This system incl a design error as the brake pistons can suddenly lock during your ride. I never had that issue with any other brake like, e.g. Sram or Magura MT7 and it has nothing to do with changing the Dot from time to time. I renewed the Dot completely and it took me almost an hour to get the back brake pistons to work again.disaster. i think this is a design issue of this break.