Thank you so much for the awesome compliment! My reward is that I get to enjoy it in my tank, and have the ability to share it with kind people like you.
Awesome!! I've been searching for ideas for a faux rock background for a 4x2x2 uromastyx enclosure, and I've seen countless videos that just aren't quite good enough. But THIS one is damn near perfect. Excellent job, and thank you for sharing!
Kevin by far your tutorial is the best on so many levels. Ive made many foam backdrops that were great but now you have shed a whole new reality on this technique. Really appreciate you revealing so much.
This is actually the best tank wall I've seen, and I've been binging RUclips vivarium DIY backgrounds for days in preparation of making my own. This is actually amazing, the only one I've seen that looks 100% real BEFORE any painting or scaping.
@@poot-poot Thank you so much! Maybe someday. I used to have a terrarium with salamanders that was pretty cool, but knowing what I've learned from building the river tank, I could have made it much better and also much safer for the salamanders. Maybe I'll do that again, but instead, make it a true paludarium. I don't have time to do this for a living because I work full time. Maybe when I retire LOL.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 You should check out Cam's Custom Backgrounds on RUclips. He started making videos of him making backgrounds 11 months ago and he just reached 1000 subscribers. If you filmed yourself making your backgrounds like that I'm sure you're channel would get really popular, people really love watching those kinds of tank set up videos and you're obviously very good at making backgrounds. You should also check out SerpaDesign
Thank you so much Ryan. There are later videos showing the background fully painted, installed, later with the aquarium up and running. The wall is holding up great and there is a lot of fish and plant life in the river tank today.
Your artists skills are out of this world! I can't thank you enough for sharing this! I was going crazy trying to find realistic enough background for my desert terrarium project and this is perfect. Now I just need to find corresponding materials that they sell here in Europe.
Absolutely LOVE this! I bought a 38 gal aquarium before I knew the apartment only allows 10 gallons. So I’ve bee looking for way to make a palidarium out of it. Fish and plants. I think I finally found the technique. Thank you!
Good luck with your new hardscape! So far so good with mine, no problems at all. Post a link to a forum thread or YT vid of your new tank here when you're done. I'd love to check it out and follow your build!
I have done this. The hardest part, I found, was to make something that looks like you did not layer up foam boards and try to make it look like rock. You did a great job, it looks natural and has enough randomness in it that you “lost” the uniformity of the boards you started with. Very well done
@@coachkevinwilson1958 I honestly thought you were modeling the Southwest for your train layout. Then I read something about fish aquariums and I was totally confused (not hard to be if you're me...)
@@redbarnz When I was doing my research on carving rock formations, painting, etc., I watched a lot of videos about doing these carvings for trains. Such a similar event for 2 completely different hobbies 🙂
Watching this guy using the knife, absolutely terrifying and anxiety producing....seeing the results, absolute perfection! Amazing work thanks for sharing your expertise/tips!
Thank you very much. I learned the hard way to wear a filet glove after having to get a few stitches on my thumb. After that, I never came close to an issue. There are some good comments below that could improve on the safety aspect of cutting foam like this. One was to find a way to clamp the foam boards together so that you wouldn't need to use the other hand. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably go that route in addition to using the filet glove.
Respect and awe are two immediate things that come to mind. Allow me be the King of the Obvious here: Your background is the most geologically correct I have seen to date (including most of the highest $ commercially available pieces) not to mention inclusion of fossils. On top of that You combined innovation, dedication, creativity, attention to detail; on and on I could go. I also much appreciate taking the passion to the next level and focusing on Your local biotopes. I live in SE Texas and have bodies of water all around me. Local aquatic plants are a passion to me. The longer I keep tanks, the more I want to recreate a local biotope and one day I will. Please accept my sincere thanks for sharing Your creativity and education You provide through The RUclips University. There are relatively few people out there, who are at Your level.
Ow wow! Thank you so much! I’m blushing! I’m so happy that you liked it and have explored my biotopes. I wish you the best in your adventure of creating your own Biotope. I’m fascinated with the blenny species caught in the Galveston beaches. If I lived near there I definitely would do that!
@@mammawombwomb I used Drylok mixed with various cement dyes and/or acrylic paint. I read that mixing yellow or green acrylic paint also gives a more lifelike appearance to real rock, so I did that with a couple layers. I’m putting together a new more comprehensive video of how I created the whole thing.
@@oriondriscoll3516 Sure Orion, no problem. I have a build thread on the NANFA forum that details just about how I did everything from start to finish, and updates after. I can give you the link to that if you're interested. In addition, you can contact me there with questions, or here, however you wish. But, that build thread has a lot of pics and details. Here's the link: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/#entry140297
Thank you Peter. I did some work with a heat gun and soldering iron as well, but on the roots, not the wall. I experimented with both on some of the wall pieces first, but chose a different route with them. There are so many ways to get a result, the key is to find one that is consistent with your end product. Do you have a link to your work?
A tonne of work but the outcome is absolutely fantastic! Outstanding level of details creating the real feel. You could actually work for a film studio building props.
there are a ton of background videos on youtube, and yours is definitely the best one i’ve found!! this looks so good and all your tips are very helpful, thank you !!!
You're quite welcome. I'm glad that the gloves kept your hands safe! Even with the gloves, you have to be really careful, as you well know. It's very easy to get excite as you make progress during carving. It's much better to take it slow and be as safe as possible.
I stretched work out a long time on this project, starting a couple years ago and am now almost finished. However, the actual time working on it took far less. I had to figure out how to make it work, and I spent a lot of time "thinking" about those things. I'm kind of a perfectionist, I guess, and I kept fiddling with it to get the look that I wanted. Once I made decisions on the direction that I'd go, I jumped in and got each step done pretty quickly. Waiting for the glue to dry after gluing the each of the boards together with Gorilla glue took about two hours for each layer before I'd move on to the next, so that is probably the most time consuming part. I've since painted and installed the piece in my tank. I painted it with Drylok mixed with cement dye, and that took some time for each layer to dry. So yeah, maybe I could do it again in a couple weeks or less, knowing what I know now, If I spent all of my free time working on it, and had to do it again. The bigger problem is that I spend a lot of time in the outdoors, fishing and looking for fossils, so another reason this wasn't done quickly, LOL Anyway, thank you for the compliment!
@@blairm3504 It might take me a little while to pull everything together, but I will do a follow up. If you are in a hurry to know, I have a thread on the NANFA forum that covers everything: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/
True! Straight lines don't occur in nature. The strata he creates with a flick of his knife reveals not only his artistry but his knowledge of natures random designs that tell the history of geological time.
Thank you Zane. Check out my latest video of the roots. It shows the wall installed in the tank. No water in it yet, but that will be coming soon once I finish the roots. After that, I'll be out collecting rocks, gravel and sand, then on to filling the tank and cycling it. Thanks for subscribing!
Awesome! Thank you for going into detail about how to carve the styrofoam. This video was very helpful for me. I was wondering how the carving was done to make the realistic looking rock breaks and formations.
Thank you so much Raven. I used a butcher knife to chip pieces off of the edge for each foam board, then glued them together. Once I had several sections glued together, I used wood cooking skewers to poke and chip out small pieces to make the cracks. After that, I sometimes went back to the knife to carve out a little more along the edges of the cracks to make it look like the crack caused erosion. You can use anything sharp to make the cracks, such as an ice pick, for example. I used a picture off of the internet of a rock formation that I liked, and tried to imitate that as much as I could. Does that answer your question?
Thank you so much! Not at all, Drylok is completely inert once dried. I also wound up using an epoxy clear coat commonly used in the museums and public aquariums made by Polygem, not to contain toxins, but rather, to protect the Drylok from being rubbed off by fish, or worse, by from me being clumbsy while working in the tank. I've had no issues as the tank has been up and running for several years now. I've had many successful spawns in the tank with some of my native fish. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out.
Thank you for your question Laura, it's a good one, and an issue that, when planning this, made me struggle and worry about how I'd avoid it from just coming apart. The 3 structures are basically hollow and filled with river rocks to help keep it less buoyant, but more importantly, the three sections fit tightly inside the aquarium frame, snug to the top. I also used a ton of silicone glue on the bottom, back and sides. So far, so good. This tank has been up and running since October 2019 and I have not had any issues with the wall. If you wish to learn more about this build, I have a build thread on the NANFA forum: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/
That's a really good question Nigel. After I finished constructing the foam boards, there was a gap between the back frame of the structure and the front of the wall that I stuffed with river rocks. Then, I sealed them in with spray foam. I used 8-9 tubes of silicone applied to the top, bottom, sides and back of the structure as well as the tank...so...tons of glue. In addition, the entire thing fits tightly in the tank under the tank frame and cross brace, which I think is key. I've had the tank up and running for 3 years and it doesn't budge. I am putting together a video that I will have out soon that goes into detail from start to finish and the status of the tank today, so stay tuned!
This is in my river tank. How I built it all is in my build thread on NANFA. But, basically, I made it in 3 pieces and used a heckuva lot of silicone to adhere it to the glass. Also, it fit very tight within the frame, so no chance of it coming free. It's all FW, so no critters can mess the wall up. I painted it with many coats of Drylok but after I installed it, I didn't want to ruin the wall via tank maintenance, so I used a museum clear coat called Polygem. Now it's almost indestructible. There are lots of videos on this channel showing it after I installed it and have many tank updates since with fish in it. My build thread should answer any questions. That said, someone commented on here previously that they'd like to see a build video from start to finish, so I may do that some day. It's a lot of work though.
James, I painted it with Drylok which is safe and seals it in. The foam itself is safe, no need to seal it in, but the pink doesn't look natural, hence, the need for paint. Some people use Cement, which can cause pH issues, and sealing that in with Drylok works. For my wall, the Drylok shows the detail that you put into it, and cement tends to cover up detail, so I chose the Drylok method. Also, to glue the layers, I used Gorilla Glue, and once cured, is inert and safe for fish too.
Yes, thermacol I think is the same thing. In the USA, it's known as Extruded Polystyrene. It is sold as insulation boards for constructions of houses. However, our local hardware store sold hobby versions of this foam board that was about 24"x24"x1" (I think, if I remember correctly).
Thank you so much. You can use any closed cell foam board insulation material if you can find it there. There are several brands available in the US. They come in pink, blue or green. If you can't find it there, you can use any kind of styrofoam. The open cell styrofoam works OK, but I like the closed cell better, because you can carve more detail into it. Good luck!
Rishi, anything you can do to reduce the foam inside your structure will help. In my case, the structure fit tightly and perfectly inside the tank, so the molding of the tank helped to keep it in place. In addition, I used 8 tubes of silicone to glue it in place. That's a lot of silicone! I glued it on both sides, the back glass, and the bottom. Also, when building it, I stuffed as many river rocks into the structure that I could and then filled the gaps with spray foam. There are all kinds of things that you can do, but don't underestimate the ability of this stuff to float. Spray foam is a great media to produce natural looking lava rock. It's pretty amazing stuff. After you finish, please post a link here, I'd love to see your work!
Yes, I painted several coats of Drylok mixed with various colors of cement dye (you can also mix them) to get the colors to match rocks found in my area. I guess each coat took a couple hours to dry. I used paint brush for the first coat without dye (was already gray in the can), and a sponge to dab it on after that for each subsequent coat. After I installed it in the tank, I wound up using a clear coat epoxy to add strength to it that I got from Polygem and it turned out great. I did that because after doing all that work, I didn't want to damage it when doing cleaning and tank maintenance. The Drylok is a good sealant, but, that on foam can chip off accidentally by moving rocks or using cleaning tools. Now, it's as strong as real rocks. Here's my build thread, starting with the Drylok painting of the rock wall: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/?p=149813 The posts after this show all of the paint layers and colors that I used, a couple pages later is the finished rock wall.
Yes, once everything cures, all of the products are inert and safe for all life in the aquarium. This tank has been up and running for over a year now and the fish are doing great. Thank you for your comment!
After thinking about this, I think if I was going to do one for reptiles where such a bulb was being used, I'd cover it with a cement solution rather than what I used for an aquarium (Drylok/epoxy clear coat) for that reason. You can get the same colors using cement dyes that I used in my Drylok. You might not get as much detail in some cases, but I've seen some really nice backgrounds using the cement method.
Thank you so much Dragon392 for your kind words!. I worked on it for about a year from start to finish. I had long periods of inactivity in between though, mostly procrastinating when trying to overcome a problem or issue with it. But, knowing what I know now, if I had to do it all over again, I could probably do it in two to three weeks if I worked on it 5 days a week for a few hours each day. The most time consuming thing is waiting for glue or paint to dry, especially the glue when working on one layer at a time.
Thank you so much! Yeah, it takes up a lot of volume for sure. The tank has been up and running for a few years now. The concept is a local river biotope tank. The tank is a 75g tank that holds about 55g of water, enough for shiners, minnows, dace and darters, which was my original plan.
The wall fits tightly against the back of the tank and under the tank frame. I also used a LOT of silicone, about 8 tubes worth. Check out my latest video to see it after installation. Thank you for your interest!
Yes, it would float. But, I took measures to make sure that it doesn't float. First, I stuffed the inner cavities with river rocks. I also made sure that the three sections fit tightly together. Also, it fits tightly in the tank, held in place by the tank frame. Finally, I used a lot of silicone to glue it to the back and side walls. I used 10 silicone tubes. So far, the tank has been up and running for over 5 months now. I checked everything out and it still fits every tightly inside the tank. So far so good! Thank you for asking.
So far, after 2 years, it's still holding up strong. It was a tight fit when I installed it and used a lot of silicone glue. After two years, it is still a tight fit and won't move. The floatation aspect of the foam hasn't been a factor. So far, so good.
Thank you so much Lorenzo, I appreciate the compliment. There are a couple ways that you could do it. One way is to carve 2 sections and overlay one over the other with a spacer toward the back between the upper and lower section, to create a gap or crevice between the layers.. Another way would be to have a solid unit and carve out the cave, deep into it. Both would work, but I think the first option would be easier. My entire wall was 3 sections, and the "crevice" between them when glued into the tank looks like a natural crack in the rock. You can do something similar like that too, with a wider crevice. Study natural rock formations and try to duplicate one that you like. I looked at a lot of rock formation pictures on the net until I found one that I liked. Carving foam allows you to create anything you want. Don't worry about being exact with your model, just similar. Rock layers and formations are random anyway. Good luck. Post a link to a pic when you are done.
Also Lorenzo, check out this link to a build that inspired me. He did great work and had a great approach trying to duplicate something that he found in nature. www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/diy-styrofoam-background-rocks.452727/
I used pink styrofoam (extruded polystyrene) insulation board. I didn't want the big house insulation boards, so I found hobby sized versions at Home Depot. Sometimes you see it in green or blue, all of them work. I don't like the ones that have a foil coating though. If you can't find them, the 4'x8' house insulation sheets work well. I used 1" thick ones, but if I had to do it again, I'd mix it up between 1" and 2" thick layers. Most hardware stores sell them. After cutting my boards and carving them, I used Gorilla Glue to bind them together.
I've heard Krylon spray paint acrylic is OK to use. With my wall, I used a product called Drylok, which is a waterproof sealing paint, which is inert and safe in fish tanks. I mixed it with cement dye to get the colors that I wanted, also fish safe. As long as these products are completely dried and cured, then they are safe for fish.
How much did you carve out on the back side? I heard some people complain that this much foam wants to float too much once you add water... even with it glued to the glass.
I filled the inside with river rocks and secured them with spray foam. It fits very tightly in the tank. The tank frame and the cross brace also hold it in place. I used a ton of silicone to hold it in place. So far, so good. I filled the tank recently to test everything and it passed with flying colors after being submerged for a week. There was no sign of separation from the glass.
Hi Moises. I made the wall out of Foamular Project Panels and they are 2'x2' and 1" thick. I got them at Home Depot. You can use any of the foam insulation board. I saw some that were 4'x8' and 2" thick. Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased and used one of those boards as well as the ones that I purchased. I think that the thicker boards give you some more carving flexibility, and less gluing (saving more time drying). But, hindsight is 20/20. My project turned out OK. I'll post a new video update soon, as I am nearly done with the faux roots for my tank. By the way, I painted over the pink color using Drylok mixed with cement dye to give the wall a more realistic look. Here is a link to the foam boards that I used: www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Panels-FOAMULAR-1-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-R-5-Small-Projects-Rigid-Pink-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
After I carved the faux rock, then I painted them with Drylok, and American product that is basically waterproofing paint. I mixed it with various colors of cement dye to create the various colors of paint on the finished wall. You can see the finished product in my later videos. Thank you for your comment!
Hi Kishor. I'm not sure what you are asking. Are you asking more about how I created this wall? If so, I don't have another video of that, but, you can read about it on several aquarium/fish forums. I have a thread on the NANFA forum and can post the link if that interests you. It goes through the entire build in detail from start to finish. Please let me know if you need that link.
Beautifully creative work! I am wanting to make an indoor waterfall using this style of layered 'rock'. Do you think this method/material (styrofoam foam boards coated with Drylok and Polygem) would withstand water constantly cascading down over them and remain 100% waterproof?
Thank you so much Mark. Sorry for the late reply. Yes, absolutely. The Drylok is a great waterproofing paint and could withstand the water running, but the Polygem is really strong, and would protect your work and keep the Drylok from chipping off. It protects against animal claws, accidental damage from cleaning, etc. I highly recommend it. And yes, it would remain waterproof.
Hi Cheryl. I found them at Home Depot. These sheets are the hobby version. I think that Dow makes them. The larger ones built for home insulation are cheaper and will work just fine, but kind of a pain to haul out of the store unless you have a pickup truck or cut them in half. The blue or green ones work just as well as the pink foam, as long as they're closed cell foam. Any of these would work just fine. I'd get the ones that don't have the foil other material on the back side, get the all foam sheets. The larger sheets come in various thicknesses, but the ones that you choose depend on your project and are your choice.
Drylok is just waterproofing sealant paint used to paint on basement walls to keep water from seeping from outside the house into the basement. There may be other brands like it where you live.
They're called Foamular Project Panels and they are 2'x2' and 1" thick. I got them at Home Depot. Here is a link to the foam boards that I used: www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Panels-FOAMULAR-1-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-R-5-Small-Projects-Rigid-Pink-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
Which drylok did you use? Just googled it and there are different types at Lowes. Also, non toxic to fish? Amazing work/wall. I've gained several ideas for my leopard gecko's terrarium.
Thank you so much for the kind compliment MrGochiefs1! I used the original Drylok in the gray color, but I'm sure that the white would work just as well. I mixed it with various shades of liquid cement dye to get the colors that I wanted. I don't know if they make the gray version any more. Don't get the ones with mildew killing formulas or anything like that. Once this stuff dries, it's inert and not toxic to fish or animals. However, shark claws or teeth could tear the Drylok off of the foam. I used Polygem Clear Coat Epoxy (the stuff that they use in museums) to protect my wall. I wasn't worried about fish doing damage, but rather, worried that I might cause damage while cleaning or doing maintenance. The Polygem really helps with the durability. Drylok is a sealant, and so is the Polygem, so if anyone worries about foam causing problems with water quality, these two items solve that issue. And, IMHO, this is an easier way to get detail into your work rather than using concrete. I look forward to seeing your project. If you do videos on it or post in forums, please post the links here and I'll follow. Good luck! Oh yeah, you can get the Drylok Original at Lowe's or HD, or maybe Ace and other hardware stores too. here's the link to what I used: www.lowes.com/pd/UGL-White-Flat-Textured-Waterproofer-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/3033249
I have watched multiple videos of making these aquarium backgrounds and i like this one very much. one question i have with all the ones i have seen is how do you run your intake and outflow for your filter if you are using a canister filter? just behind the wall and make a hole for each? it seems like you wouldnt get good flow that way but curious, thanks
Brian, thank you for your comment and your interest in my tank build. I basically built the intake into the left side of the wall, hidden from view behind a removable panel. The outflow is from a spray bar across the top of the left side of the tank, flowing across the tank. Additional current is obtained by the use of a strong powerhead that is hidden behind my DIY roots also on the left side of the tank. I purposely tried to hide the equipment from a normal front view of the tank. Even looking from the front right of the tank, it's tough to see the powerhead. For more details, check out my build thread on the NANFA forum. This link will take you specifically to a post that describes the flow in the tank with details of pictures, forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/?p=153549. The posts following this one to the end of the thread answer similar questions. I may do a video that explains all this as well. This past weekend, I performed a water change and cleaned out the canister filter. It was quite dirty after just a couple months, so apparently, there is enough flow to clean the water effectively.
Hey Kevin, I know you use this for aquariums typically. But I have plans on using this in a vivarium, does this stuff tend to get super waterlogged? Also would it be porous enough for plants to adhere to it, or does that mainly depend on the type of paint you use? Thanks, and great video.
I think that you could create divots and holes that plants could creep into. It's not porous though for the most part. In my case, I used Drylok mixed with various cement dye colors to paint it, and then covered the exposed surfaces with museum grade epoxy clear coat made by Polygem to protect it from fish or other critters that might pick at it, or more importantly, from me damaging it during cleaning and maintenance. Polystyrene can be damaged easily. It's a strong structure, but easy to chip away at. So far, I haven't had any problems. I don't know how plants would react to it with the clear coat, but, it doesn't stop algae from growing on it! But, even if you decide to use Polygem or not, the great thing about foam is that you can stick things in it to hold mesh or just stick wooden or plastic kabob sticks in it to hold plants. It's a very nice material to work with, completely inert, so you don't have to worry about it hurting your creatures, fish or plants. I used Gorilla Glue to bond the layers, and that works great. Once glued, it won't come apart, and it's inert too once dried and cured.
@@closedcourseproductions4832 There are lots of good forums out there that you can find on this subject, but some of the aquarium forums have sections for vivariums and other things. One good forum is this one that has a Vivarium section: www.aquariacentral.com/forums/ Also, on many of these forums, aquarists are interested in Vivariums and paludariums and post their builds in DIY sections or other places on the website especially if they are DIY sections. This website has some really good vivarium builds: www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/ Check out this one in particular:paludarium, one of the inspriations of my river tank build: www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/mudskipper-paludarium-an-alternative-solution.410444/
Thank you tstoneami! I used styrofoam (extruded polystyrene) foam board. What I used specifically were hobby sized versions of foam board purchased at Home Depot. You can use the pink or blue insulation foam board sold in hardware stores. I used the hobby sized ones because they easily fit into my vehicle. I think the extruded polystyrene foam insulation works best to get the detail carving that you might want. but you can use anything that is inert.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 Thank you for the reply. I thought I recognized it, but wanted to be sure. It's funny, was looking for a source for shale right around the time I ran across this - has a similar look to a wild outcropping of shale!
@@tstoneami, thank you. Please feel free to ask questions at any time. I will respond. A good source of info are the forums that I post in. Here is a link to one of the build threads: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/
I used a hot wire foam cutting tool but didn't get the effect that I was looking for. Thanks for the suggestion though. The effect is the look of a break, rather than a cut. I tried a bunch of different things before I tried this for the first time.
What is the foam you are using and do you paint your backgrounds. If so, do you use acrylic paint? Do you coat it in anything to make it aquarium safe?
Hi Elizabeth. I used hobby foam board that I purchased at Home Depot. It's the same thing as the pink insulation board that you can buy in the construction section of your hardware store. I think that the blue and the pink are the same thing. As far as paint goes, I used Drylok paint, which is a sealant and is waterproof once cured. I used cement dye mixed in to get the colors that I wanted. The paint, when cured, is aquarium safe, as is the foam itself, since it's inert. However, I coated the final structure using Polygem clear coat epoxy to make it stronger. I didn't want to accidentally chip off a piece of a background and have that pink foam show through. The Polygem made it much stronger, almost indestructible, enough that I can clean the wall with an abrasive sponge or brush and not have to worry about breaking off the paint and exposing the pink foam. Why worry about the foam being exposed? It's aquarium safe, so no problem there. I just didn't want the unnatural pink color showing through. The epoxy clear coat protects the hard work that I did. You can see the final product in later videos, including my most recent one. Thanks for the comment and best wishes.
Thank you! If not secured properly, it will float. I don't think that I mentioned this in my video, but I took measures to try and prevent the structure from floating. I embedded river rocks inside the structure when I filled in gaps between the foam boards and the back, then used spray foam in between the rocks. Also, I went through a bunch of tubes of silicone when I installed it. I tried to apply a bead of silicone just about every square inch that I could, back, bottom and sides. It is in there very solidly now.
Also, factoring in the silicone, the structure fits tightly into place in the tank, so the frame of the tank should help keep it secure. I tried to see if I could try and pull it off the glass, but no, it's affixed solidly.
You should get the top award on youtube for having the most realistic wall!!!
Thank you so much for the awesome compliment! My reward is that I get to enjoy it in my tank, and have the ability to share it with kind people like you.
🏅
@@coachkevinwilson19584 years later and still rocking on!
Awesome!! I've been searching for ideas for a faux rock background for a 4x2x2 uromastyx enclosure, and I've seen countless videos that just aren't quite good enough. But THIS one is damn near perfect. Excellent job, and thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much Espiayzi!
This is the only video that 100% got what I have in mind
Thank you so much!
The look you have created on your wall is exactly what I want to create but I have never seen your method before it's brilliant thankyou for sharing ❤
Thank you so much Shana! I am working on a more detailed video. I hope to finish and publish it soon.
Finallyyy a video that SHOWS what sealant/materials to use
Thank you !
Very, Very talented work! Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you Dan! Much appreciated!
Kevin by far your tutorial is the best on so many levels. Ive made many foam backdrops that were great but now you have shed a whole new reality on this technique. Really appreciate you revealing so much.
Thank you Don!
Well Kevin, this is probably the best video I've seen on making faux rock backgrounds! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much Ron!
This is actually the best tank wall I've seen, and I've been binging RUclips vivarium DIY backgrounds for days in preparation of making my own. This is actually amazing, the only one I've seen that looks 100% real BEFORE any painting or scaping.
Thank you so much for the wonderful compliment, Sangunaris! You can see the wall set up in my river tank in later videos.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 you should seriously consider doing terrarium DIY builds, you could make some crazy reptile tanks!
@@poot-poot Thank you so much! Maybe someday. I used to have a terrarium with salamanders that was pretty cool, but knowing what I've learned from building the river tank, I could have made it much better and also much safer for the salamanders. Maybe I'll do that again, but instead, make it a true paludarium. I don't have time to do this for a living because I work full time. Maybe when I retire LOL.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 You should check out Cam's Custom Backgrounds on RUclips. He started making videos of him making backgrounds 11 months ago and he just reached 1000 subscribers. If you filmed yourself making your backgrounds like that I'm sure you're channel would get really popular, people really love watching those kinds of tank set up videos and you're obviously very good at making backgrounds. You should also check out SerpaDesign
Brilliant video Kevin the background looks amazing! Very nice safety tip with the glove. I hope your background looks great in your aquarium
Thank you so much Ryan. There are later videos showing the background fully painted, installed, later with the aquarium up and running. The wall is holding up great and there is a lot of fish and plant life in the river tank today.
Most natural, artistic one Ive seen!
Im mindblown!
Thank you so much!!!😊
Best 3d diy background I’ve seen. Thank you for the video, looks awesome!
Thank you so much Tocafish!
Your artists skills are out of this world! I can't thank you enough for sharing this! I was going crazy trying to find realistic enough background for my desert terrarium project and this is perfect. Now I just need to find corresponding materials that they sell here in Europe.
Thank you for the very kind words Reetta! Good luck with your project!
Absolutely LOVE this! I bought a 38 gal aquarium before I knew the apartment only allows 10 gallons. So I’ve bee looking for way to make a palidarium out of it. Fish and plants. I think I finally found the technique. Thank you!
Good luck with your new hardscape! So far so good with mine, no problems at all. Post a link to a forum thread or YT vid of your new tank here when you're done. I'd love to check it out and follow your build!
I have done this. The hardest part, I found, was to make something that looks like you did not layer up foam boards and try to make it look like rock. You did a great job, it looks natural and has enough randomness in it that you “lost” the uniformity of the boards you started with. Very well done
Thank you so much Adventure Indiana!
Good job! 👍 Thanks for sharing it
@@inklion Thank you so much Leo!
This is a great technique for model train layouts as well!!!
Thank you, that's a great point!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 I honestly thought you were modeling the Southwest for your train layout. Then I read something about fish aquariums and I was totally confused (not hard to be if you're me...)
@@redbarnz When I was doing my research on carving rock formations, painting, etc., I watched a lot of videos about doing these carvings for trains. Such a similar event for 2 completely different hobbies 🙂
I wish I had seen this before doing my faux-slate wall! Yours is gorgeous
Thank you Emily! You can always start a new tank! :)
Watching this guy using the knife, absolutely terrifying and anxiety producing....seeing the results, absolute perfection! Amazing work thanks for sharing your expertise/tips!
Thank you very much. I learned the hard way to wear a filet glove after having to get a few stitches on my thumb. After that, I never came close to an issue. There are some good comments below that could improve on the safety aspect of cutting foam like this. One was to find a way to clamp the foam boards together so that you wouldn't need to use the other hand. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably go that route in addition to using the filet glove.
Awesome work buddy!
Thank you so much Paul!
Respect and awe are two immediate things that come to mind. Allow me be the King of the Obvious here: Your background is the most geologically correct I have seen to date (including most of the highest $ commercially available pieces) not to mention inclusion of fossils. On top of that You combined innovation, dedication, creativity, attention to detail; on and on I could go. I also much appreciate taking the passion to the next level and focusing on Your local biotopes. I live in SE Texas and have bodies of water all around me. Local aquatic plants are a passion to me. The longer I keep tanks, the more I want to recreate a local biotope and one day I will. Please accept my sincere thanks for sharing Your creativity and education You provide through The RUclips University. There are relatively few people out there, who are at Your level.
I forgot to ask: what paint did You use for the “rocks”?
Ow wow! Thank you so much! I’m blushing! I’m so happy that you liked it and have explored my biotopes. I wish you the best in your adventure of creating your own Biotope. I’m fascinated with the blenny species caught in the Galveston beaches. If I lived near there I definitely would do that!
@@mammawombwomb I used Drylok mixed with various cement dyes and/or acrylic paint. I read that mixing yellow or green acrylic paint also gives a more lifelike appearance to real rock, so I did that with a couple layers. I’m putting together a new more comprehensive video of how I created the whole thing.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 thank You. I will look for the video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge .
Thank you so much Keyrun!
Excellent workmanship.
Thank you Razvan!
Excellent work great technique
Thank you so much Orion!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 I could use some Pointers and advice if you’re still on here LOL
@@oriondriscoll3516 Sure Orion, no problem. I have a build thread on the NANFA forum that details just about how I did everything from start to finish, and updates after. I can give you the link to that if you're interested. In addition, you can contact me there with questions, or here, however you wish. But, that build thread has a lot of pics and details.
Here's the link: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/#entry140297
scroll about halfway down the first page and that's where the fun really begins :)
Wow! Probably the best and most realistic piece I’ve seen. Awesome job! You should sell these. I’m sure there’s a great market for it!
Thank you Peter! Maybe someday.
Very sedimentary...Great work...
Thank you so much Edward!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 my pleasure🏴
Good job,quiet realistic.I did mine with a soldering iron and drew the rocks and then aged it with a blow torch
Thank you Peter. I did some work with a heat gun and soldering iron as well, but on the roots, not the wall. I experimented with both on some of the wall pieces first, but chose a different route with them. There are so many ways to get a result, the key is to find one that is consistent with your end product. Do you have a link to your work?
A tonne of work but the outcome is absolutely fantastic! Outstanding level of details creating the real feel. You could actually work for a film studio building props.
Thank you so much for the wonderful compliment!
Great tutorial!
Thank you so much!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 - You are welcome!
there are a ton of background videos on youtube, and yours is definitely the best one i’ve found!! this looks so good and all your tips are very helpful, thank you !!!
Thank you so much Vi!
Thank you!! This is awesome!!
Thank you so much Leo!
Super cool!
Thank you so much!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 You're welcome!
This is very helpful. Thanks for making this video. DIY baby!
Thank you Blaze! My pleasure :)
God bless you.
Thank you
Thank you so much Federico!
This looks amazing!! Thank you for the example too, will try on my small 10 gallons to start with!
Thank you so much Manon! Have fun and enjoy the result!
That's actually so beautiful
Thank you so much!
Thank you for sharing and thanks for the tip on the gloves! Saved my hands more than once!
You're quite welcome. I'm glad that the gloves kept your hands safe! Even with the gloves, you have to be really careful, as you well know. It's very easy to get excite as you make progress during carving. It's much better to take it slow and be as safe as possible.
This looks like such a fun method and the results are amazing! I"ll have to try this out in a vivarium some day!
Tthank you Ash!
This is super impressive, definitely a technique I’ll be attempting to replicate.
Thank you Stephen!
You are pretty smart, awesome idea. Thanks from brazil!
Thank you Bruno!
Great technique! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much! My pleasure.
Brilliant
Thank you David.
You sir are nothing short of amazing! How many hours do you have in that piece?
I stretched work out a long time on this project, starting a couple years ago and am now almost finished. However, the actual time working on it took far less. I had to figure out how to make it work, and I spent a lot of time "thinking" about those things. I'm kind of a perfectionist, I guess, and I kept fiddling with it to get the look that I wanted. Once I made decisions on the direction that I'd go, I jumped in and got each step done pretty quickly. Waiting for the glue to dry after gluing the each of the boards together with Gorilla glue took about two hours for each layer before I'd move on to the next, so that is probably the most time consuming part. I've since painted and installed the piece in my tank. I painted it with Drylok mixed with cement dye, and that took some time for each layer to dry. So yeah, maybe I could do it again in a couple weeks or less, knowing what I know now, If I spent all of my free time working on it, and had to do it again. The bigger problem is that I spend a lot of time in the outdoors, fishing and looking for fossils, so another reason this wasn't done quickly, LOL Anyway, thank you for the compliment!
Love the video, I only wish there was a Part 2 where you went over the finishing aspect. 🙂
Thank you so much! I think that I can do something like that! It would be a narrative with pics. Would that be OK?
@@coachkevinwilson1958 that would be awesome!!!
@@blairm3504 It might take me a little while to pull everything together, but I will do a follow up. If you are in a hurry to know, I have a thread on the NANFA forum that covers everything: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/
True! Straight lines don't occur in nature. The strata he creates with a flick of his knife reveals not only his artistry but his knowledge of natures random designs that tell the history of geological time.
Thank you so much Japhet for the wonderful compliment!
Beautiful work. Thank you
Thank you Mark!
Very cool idea, thanx.
Thank you Steve for the compliment!
Buddy this is genius! Thank you!
Thank you MrCrawlings!
Best and one of the most detailed videos out there. Earned a sub here. But I really want to see this wall in the tank!
Thank you Zane. Check out my latest video of the roots. It shows the wall installed in the tank. No water in it yet, but that will be coming soon once I finish the roots. After that, I'll be out collecting rocks, gravel and sand, then on to filling the tank and cycling it. Thanks for subscribing!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 yes sir. I'll check it out. And you're welcome.
Wow what a great technique! I've been researching for doing a small project and this will be really helpful
Thank you so much!
You have patience, wow.
Thank you William!
Great video
Thank you so much GTB_Greedy!
Nice informative video thank you sir
You're quite welcome!
Awesome! Thank you for going into detail about how to carve the styrofoam. This video was very helpful for me. I was wondering how the carving was done to make the realistic looking rock breaks and formations.
Thank you so much Raven. I used a butcher knife to chip pieces off of the edge for each foam board, then glued them together. Once I had several sections glued together, I used wood cooking skewers to poke and chip out small pieces to make the cracks. After that, I sometimes went back to the knife to carve out a little more along the edges of the cracks to make it look like the crack caused erosion. You can use anything sharp to make the cracks, such as an ice pick, for example. I used a picture off of the internet of a rock formation that I liked, and tried to imitate that as much as I could. Does that answer your question?
@@coachkevinwilson1958 yes it did! Thank you so much. You are so talented. Keep up the good work! ❤
Thank you so much Raven!
Thats amazing!
Thank you Caesar!
Thank you very much. !!
🤔😀👍
You're very welcome. Thank you!
Fantastic work..dry loc is not dangerous for the fishes?
Thank you so much! Not at all, Drylok is completely inert once dried. I also wound up using an epoxy clear coat commonly used in the museums and public aquariums made by Polygem, not to contain toxins, but rather, to protect the Drylok from being rubbed off by fish, or worse, by from me being clumbsy while working in the tank. I've had no issues as the tank has been up and running for several years now. I've had many successful spawns in the tank with some of my native fish. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out.
Question: how do you keep it submerged? It seems like it would be extremely buoyant.
Thank you for your question Laura, it's a good one, and an issue that, when planning this, made me struggle and worry about how I'd avoid it from just coming apart. The 3 structures are basically hollow and filled with river rocks to help keep it less buoyant, but more importantly, the three sections fit tightly inside the aquarium frame, snug to the top. I also used a ton of silicone glue on the bottom, back and sides. So far, so good. This tank has been up and running since October 2019 and I have not had any issues with the wall. If you wish to learn more about this build, I have a build thread on the NANFA forum: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/
You are an artist! Wow!
Looks amazing! Thank you for showing us your techniques! :)
Thank you Jared! You're quite welcome.
Question : how do you keep the wall from floating up in the aquarium?
That's a really good question Nigel. After I finished constructing the foam boards, there was a gap between the back frame of the structure and the front of the wall that I stuffed with river rocks. Then, I sealed them in with spray foam. I used 8-9 tubes of silicone applied to the top, bottom, sides and back of the structure as well as the tank...so...tons of glue. In addition, the entire thing fits tightly in the tank under the tank frame and cross brace, which I think is key. I've had the tank up and running for 3 years and it doesn't budge. I am putting together a video that I will have out soon that goes into detail from start to finish and the status of the tank today, so stay tuned!
Did I miss how you get it to stick to the back wall of the aquarium? also do sea urchins chew it up?
This is in my river tank. How I built it all is in my build thread on NANFA. But, basically, I made it in 3 pieces and used a heckuva lot of silicone to adhere it to the glass. Also, it fit very tight within the frame, so no chance of it coming free. It's all FW, so no critters can mess the wall up. I painted it with many coats of Drylok but after I installed it, I didn't want to ruin the wall via tank maintenance, so I used a museum clear coat called Polygem. Now it's almost indestructible. There are lots of videos on this channel showing it after I installed it and have many tank updates since with fish in it. My build thread should answer any questions. That said, someone commented on here previously that they'd like to see a build video from start to finish, so I may do that some day. It's a lot of work though.
Thank you for this tutorial! I subbed
Thank you so much Tony!
do u have to put any sealer on it so it will be safe for the fish
James, I painted it with Drylok which is safe and seals it in. The foam itself is safe, no need to seal it in, but the pink doesn't look natural, hence, the need for paint. Some people use Cement, which can cause pH issues, and sealing that in with Drylok works. For my wall, the Drylok shows the detail that you put into it, and cement tends to cover up detail, so I chose the Drylok method. Also, to glue the layers, I used Gorilla Glue, and once cured, is inert and safe for fish too.
Good idea, thanks sir. 🇲🇨
Thank you Strywaku!
Happy 4th of July Kevin!
Thank you Rob!
Oh man its so fucking intersting. Thank you
Thank you very much.
Awesome 👏
Thank you Khamis!
The intricacies 😳 ..
Thank you Ariana!
OH!!!....Great. Just subscribed.
Thank you rich andy!
What material you used. Is it thermacol?
Yes, thermacol I think is the same thing. In the USA, it's known as Extruded Polystyrene. It is sold as insulation boards for constructions of houses. However, our local hardware store sold hobby versions of this foam board that was about 24"x24"x1" (I think, if I remember correctly).
Wow! Amazing!!! I am gonna try something like that. Not sure I will find the material in my country though
Thank you so much. You can use any closed cell foam board insulation material if you can find it there. There are several brands available in the US. They come in pink, blue or green. If you can't find it there, you can use any kind of styrofoam. The open cell styrofoam works OK, but I like the closed cell better, because you can carve more detail into it. Good luck!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 definitely will be looking, I did some rock formations out of foam in a can and cement. Hopefully sink lol.
Rishi, anything you can do to reduce the foam inside your structure will help. In my case, the structure fit tightly and perfectly inside the tank, so the molding of the tank helped to keep it in place. In addition, I used 8 tubes of silicone to glue it in place. That's a lot of silicone! I glued it on both sides, the back glass, and the bottom. Also, when building it, I stuffed as many river rocks into the structure that I could and then filled the gaps with spray foam. There are all kinds of things that you can do, but don't underestimate the ability of this stuff to float. Spray foam is a great media to produce natural looking lava rock. It's pretty amazing stuff. After you finish, please post a link here, I'd love to see your work!
The last step is to paint the foam with drylok and cement pigment? Did i get this right? And how long normally to leave it until it fully dries up?
Yes, I painted several coats of Drylok mixed with various colors of cement dye (you can also mix them) to get the colors to match rocks found in my area. I guess each coat took a couple hours to dry. I used paint brush for the first coat without dye (was already gray in the can), and a sponge to dab it on after that for each subsequent coat. After I installed it in the tank, I wound up using a clear coat epoxy to add strength to it that I got from Polygem and it turned out great. I did that because after doing all that work, I didn't want to damage it when doing cleaning and tank maintenance. The Drylok is a good sealant, but, that on foam can chip off accidentally by moving rocks or using cleaning tools. Now, it's as strong as real rocks. Here's my build thread, starting with the Drylok painting of the rock wall: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/?p=149813 The posts after this show all of the paint layers and colors that I used, a couple pages later is the finished rock wall.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 this is really helpful! I appreciate you explaining it in detail. Thanks! 😃
@@afifahzulkefli2647 You're quite welcome Afifah!
Are all of these products safe for aquarium fishes?
Yes, once everything cures, all of the products are inert and safe for all life in the aquarium. This tank has been up and running for over a year now and the fish are doing great. Thank you for your comment!
hiya would these styrene backgrounds pose a fire risk with the heat bulbs
I don’t think so in my case because it’s entirely submerged in my aquarium, and, I have LED lighting.
sorry i was thinking of vivariums silly me@@coachkevinwilson1958
After thinking about this, I think if I was going to do one for reptiles where such a bulb was being used, I'd cover it with a cement solution rather than what I used for an aquarium (Drylok/epoxy clear coat) for that reason. You can get the same colors using cement dyes that I used in my Drylok. You might not get as much detail in some cases, but I've seen some really nice backgrounds using the cement method.
Owsom
Thank you so much!
Holy cow, that’s a nice background! How long did that one in the background take to make? True labor of love, right there.
Thank you so much Dragon392 for your kind words!. I worked on it for about a year from start to finish. I had long periods of inactivity in between though, mostly procrastinating when trying to overcome a problem or issue with it. But, knowing what I know now, if I had to do it all over again, I could probably do it in two to three weeks if I worked on it 5 days a week for a few hours each day. The most time consuming thing is waiting for glue or paint to dry, especially the glue when working on one layer at a time.
Looks amazing but its gonna take the whole tank, looks like 150gallon tank down to 75gallons with the background inside
Thank you so much! Yeah, it takes up a lot of volume for sure. The tank has been up and running for a few years now. The concept is a local river biotope tank. The tank is a 75g tank that holds about 55g of water, enough for shiners, minnows, dace and darters, which was my original plan.
BUT, how do you place it in your aquarium once it’s completed?
The wall fits tightly against the back of the tank and under the tank frame. I also used a LOT of silicone, about 8 tubes worth. Check out my latest video to see it after installation. Thank you for your interest!
Wouldn’t it float??
Yes, it would float. But, I took measures to make sure that it doesn't float. First, I stuffed the inner cavities with river rocks. I also made sure that the three sections fit tightly together. Also, it fits tightly in the tank, held in place by the tank frame. Finally, I used a lot of silicone to glue it to the back and side walls. I used 10 silicone tubes. So far, the tank has been up and running for over 5 months now. I checked everything out and it still fits every tightly inside the tank. So far so good! Thank you for asking.
So far, after 2 years, it's still holding up strong. It was a tight fit when I installed it and used a lot of silicone glue. After two years, it is still a tight fit and won't move. The floatation aspect of the foam hasn't been a factor. So far, so good.
I love you dad.
Love it question how would you add like small holes in it like if u wanted to put caves into it. I have a 90 gallon I would love try it in my tank
Thank you so much Lorenzo, I appreciate the compliment. There are a couple ways that you could do it. One way is to carve 2 sections and overlay one over the other with a spacer toward the back between the upper and lower section, to create a gap or crevice between the layers.. Another way would be to have a solid unit and carve out the cave, deep into it. Both would work, but I think the first option would be easier. My entire wall was 3 sections, and the "crevice" between them when glued into the tank looks like a natural crack in the rock. You can do something similar like that too, with a wider crevice. Study natural rock formations and try to duplicate one that you like. I looked at a lot of rock formation pictures on the net until I found one that I liked. Carving foam allows you to create anything you want. Don't worry about being exact with your model, just similar. Rock layers and formations are random anyway. Good luck. Post a link to a pic when you are done.
Also Lorenzo, check out this link to a build that inspired me. He did great work and had a great approach trying to duplicate something that he found in nature. www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/diy-styrofoam-background-rocks.452727/
What is name of foam?
I used pink styrofoam (extruded polystyrene) insulation board. I didn't want the big house insulation boards, so I found hobby sized versions at Home Depot. Sometimes you see it in green or blue, all of them work. I don't like the ones that have a foil coating though. If you can't find them, the 4'x8' house insulation sheets work well. I used 1" thick ones, but if I had to do it again, I'd mix it up between 1" and 2" thick layers. Most hardware stores sell them. After cutting my boards and carving them, I used Gorilla Glue to bind them together.
Just wow
Thank you kokikz26!
never pull the knife towards yourself rule #1
Point well taken.
What is acrylic fish safe paint
I've heard Krylon spray paint acrylic is OK to use. With my wall, I used a product called Drylok, which is a waterproof sealing paint, which is inert and safe in fish tanks. I mixed it with cement dye to get the colors that I wanted, also fish safe. As long as these products are completely dried and cured, then they are safe for fish.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 thank you for all informations
You're quite welcome A A
How much did you carve out on the back side? I heard some people complain that this much foam wants to float too much once you add water... even with it glued to the glass.
I filled the inside with river rocks and secured them with spray foam. It fits very tightly in the tank. The tank frame and the cross brace also hold it in place. I used a ton of silicone to hold it in place. So far, so good. I filled the tank recently to test everything and it passed with flying colors after being submerged for a week. There was no sign of separation from the glass.
I thought that I'd follow up 2 years later...the wall still fits tightly and won't budge. It's holding up nicely. So far, so good!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 thanks for the follow-up.
Qué material es que usa?
Hi Moises. I made the wall out of Foamular Project Panels and they are 2'x2' and 1" thick. I got them at Home Depot. You can use any of the foam insulation board. I saw some that were 4'x8' and 2" thick. Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased and used one of those boards as well as the ones that I purchased. I think that the thicker boards give you some more carving flexibility, and less gluing (saving more time drying). But, hindsight is 20/20. My project turned out OK. I'll post a new video update soon, as I am nearly done with the faux roots for my tank. By the way, I painted over the pink color using Drylok mixed with cement dye to give the wall a more realistic look. Here is a link to the foam boards that I used: www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Panels-FOAMULAR-1-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-R-5-Small-Projects-Rigid-Pink-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
After I carved the faux rock, then I painted them with Drylok, and American product that is basically waterproofing paint. I mixed it with various colors of cement dye to create the various colors of paint on the finished wall. You can see the finished product in my later videos. Thank you for your comment!
Sir, can u upload someother video like rock make over
Hi Kishor. I'm not sure what you are asking. Are you asking more about how I created this wall? If so, I don't have another video of that, but, you can read about it on several aquarium/fish forums. I have a thread on the NANFA forum and can post the link if that interests you. It goes through the entire build in detail from start to finish. Please let me know if you need that link.
Beautifully creative work! I am wanting to make an indoor waterfall using this style of layered 'rock'. Do you think this method/material (styrofoam foam boards coated with Drylok and Polygem) would withstand water constantly cascading down over them and remain 100% waterproof?
Thank you so much Mark. Sorry for the late reply. Yes, absolutely. The Drylok is a great waterproofing paint and could withstand the water running, but the Polygem is really strong, and would protect your work and keep the Drylok from chipping off. It protects against animal claws, accidental damage from cleaning, etc. I highly recommend it. And yes, it would remain waterproof.
Where do you get those styro sheets that are coloured like that? I am in Ontario Canada
Hi Cheryl. I found them at Home Depot. These sheets are the hobby version. I think that Dow makes them. The larger ones built for home insulation are cheaper and will work just fine, but kind of a pain to haul out of the store unless you have a pickup truck or cut them in half. The blue or green ones work just as well as the pink foam, as long as they're closed cell foam. Any of these would work just fine. I'd get the ones that don't have the foil other material on the back side, get the all foam sheets. The larger sheets come in various thicknesses, but the ones that you choose depend on your project and are your choice.
Good day. your wall so realistic. I dount undersand what is Dry lock? what type of glue is it
Drylok is just waterproofing sealant paint used to paint on basement walls to keep water from seeping from outside the house into the basement. There may be other brands like it where you live.
Which specific foam is that?
They're called Foamular Project Panels and they are 2'x2' and 1" thick. I got them at Home Depot. Here is a link to the foam boards that I used: www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Panels-FOAMULAR-1-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-R-5-Small-Projects-Rigid-Pink-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
Which drylok did you use? Just googled it and there are different types at Lowes. Also, non toxic to fish? Amazing work/wall. I've gained several ideas for my leopard gecko's terrarium.
Thank you so much for the kind compliment MrGochiefs1! I used the original Drylok in the gray color, but I'm sure that the white would work just as well. I mixed it with various shades of liquid cement dye to get the colors that I wanted. I don't know if they make the gray version any more. Don't get the ones with mildew killing formulas or anything like that. Once this stuff dries, it's inert and not toxic to fish or animals. However, shark claws or teeth could tear the Drylok off of the foam. I used Polygem Clear Coat Epoxy (the stuff that they use in museums) to protect my wall. I wasn't worried about fish doing damage, but rather, worried that I might cause damage while cleaning or doing maintenance. The Polygem really helps with the durability. Drylok is a sealant, and so is the Polygem, so if anyone worries about foam causing problems with water quality, these two items solve that issue. And, IMHO, this is an easier way to get detail into your work rather than using concrete. I look forward to seeing your project. If you do videos on it or post in forums, please post the links here and I'll follow. Good luck! Oh yeah, you can get the Drylok Original at Lowe's or HD, or maybe Ace and other hardware stores too. here's the link to what I used: www.lowes.com/pd/UGL-White-Flat-Textured-Waterproofer-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/3033249
Bet this guy can peel an apple with one hand
Thanks, I think? LOL
I have watched multiple videos of making these aquarium backgrounds and i like this one very much. one question i have with all the ones i have seen is how do you run your intake and outflow for your filter if you are using a canister filter? just behind the wall and make a hole for each? it seems like you wouldnt get good flow that way but curious, thanks
Brian, thank you for your comment and your interest in my tank build. I basically built the intake into the left side of the wall, hidden from view behind a removable panel. The outflow is from a spray bar across the top of the left side of the tank, flowing across the tank. Additional current is obtained by the use of a strong powerhead that is hidden behind my DIY roots also on the left side of the tank. I purposely tried to hide the equipment from a normal front view of the tank. Even looking from the front right of the tank, it's tough to see the powerhead. For more details, check out my build thread on the NANFA forum. This link will take you specifically to a post that describes the flow in the tank with details of pictures, forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/?p=153549. The posts following this one to the end of the thread answer similar questions. I may do a video that explains all this as well. This past weekend, I performed a water change and cleaned out the canister filter. It was quite dirty after just a couple months, so apparently, there is enough flow to clean the water effectively.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 thanks for the reply Kevin, appreciate the quick response and the link. research is on!!
Hey Kevin, I know you use this for aquariums typically. But I have plans on using this in a vivarium, does this stuff tend to get super waterlogged? Also would it be porous enough for plants to adhere to it, or does that mainly depend on the type of paint you use? Thanks, and great video.
I think that you could create divots and holes that plants could creep into. It's not porous though for the most part. In my case, I used Drylok mixed with various cement dye colors to paint it, and then covered the exposed surfaces with museum grade epoxy clear coat made by Polygem to protect it from fish or other critters that might pick at it, or more importantly, from me damaging it during cleaning and maintenance. Polystyrene can be damaged easily. It's a strong structure, but easy to chip away at. So far, I haven't had any problems. I don't know how plants would react to it with the clear coat, but, it doesn't stop algae from growing on it! But, even if you decide to use Polygem or not, the great thing about foam is that you can stick things in it to hold mesh or just stick wooden or plastic kabob sticks in it to hold plants. It's a very nice material to work with, completely inert, so you don't have to worry about it hurting your creatures, fish or plants. I used Gorilla Glue to bond the layers, and that works great. Once glued, it won't come apart, and it's inert too once dried and cured.
Thanks Kevin! Helps a lot, just staring on the build.
@@closedcourseproductions4832 If you do a video or post pics on a forum, please share here if you remember. I'd love to see it!
@@coachkevinwilson1958 what forum could I post my finished product on?
@@closedcourseproductions4832 There are lots of good forums out there that you can find on this subject, but some of the aquarium forums have sections for vivariums and other things. One good forum is this one that has a Vivarium section: www.aquariacentral.com/forums/
Also, on many of these forums, aquarists are interested in Vivariums and paludariums and post their builds in DIY sections or other places on the website especially if they are DIY sections. This website has some really good vivarium builds: www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/
Check out this one in particular:paludarium, one of the inspriations of my river tank build: www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/mudskipper-paludarium-an-alternative-solution.410444/
Great technique...can you tell the name of the foam you used?
Thank you tstoneami! I used styrofoam (extruded polystyrene) foam board. What I used specifically were hobby sized versions of foam board purchased at Home Depot. You can use the pink or blue insulation foam board sold in hardware stores. I used the hobby sized ones because they easily fit into my vehicle. I think the extruded polystyrene foam insulation works best to get the detail carving that you might want. but you can use anything that is inert.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 Thank you for the reply. I thought I recognized it, but wanted to be sure. It's funny, was looking for a source for shale right around the time I ran across this - has a similar look to a wild outcropping of shale!
@@tstoneami, thank you. Please feel free to ask questions at any time. I will respond. A good source of info are the forums that I post in. Here is a link to one of the build threads: forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/16651-75-gallon-native-stream-tank-build/
A hot wire would do this job much faster.
I used a hot wire foam cutting tool but didn't get the effect that I was looking for. Thanks for the suggestion though. The effect is the look of a break, rather than a cut. I tried a bunch of different things before I tried this for the first time.
What is the foam you are using and do you paint your backgrounds. If so, do you use acrylic paint? Do you coat it in anything to make it aquarium safe?
Hi Elizabeth. I used hobby foam board that I purchased at Home Depot. It's the same thing as the pink insulation board that you can buy in the construction section of your hardware store. I think that the blue and the pink are the same thing. As far as paint goes, I used Drylok paint, which is a sealant and is waterproof once cured. I used cement dye mixed in to get the colors that I wanted. The paint, when cured, is aquarium safe, as is the foam itself, since it's inert. However, I coated the final structure using Polygem clear coat epoxy to make it stronger. I didn't want to accidentally chip off a piece of a background and have that pink foam show through. The Polygem made it much stronger, almost indestructible, enough that I can clean the wall with an abrasive sponge or brush and not have to worry about breaking off the paint and exposing the pink foam. Why worry about the foam being exposed? It's aquarium safe, so no problem there. I just didn't want the unnatural pink color showing through. The epoxy clear coat protects the hard work that I did. You can see the final product in later videos, including my most recent one. Thanks for the comment and best wishes.
So, it will not float in water?
Thank you! If not secured properly, it will float. I don't think that I mentioned this in my video, but I took measures to try and prevent the structure from floating. I embedded river rocks inside the structure when I filled in gaps between the foam boards and the back, then used spray foam in between the rocks. Also, I went through a bunch of tubes of silicone when I installed it. I tried to apply a bead of silicone just about every square inch that I could, back, bottom and sides. It is in there very solidly now.
Also, factoring in the silicone, the structure fits tightly into place in the tank, so the frame of the tank should help keep it secure. I tried to see if I could try and pull it off the glass, but no, it's affixed solidly.
@@coachkevinwilson1958 thanks for the replies, your work is awesome!!!!🙂