why your unboxing is so great and straight to the point? and no huge intro talks as others...man, just keep it up like that please!! Subscribed clearly!
To remove the M.2 PCB add-on do I have to remove a screw on the back of the motherboard or just a screw that is under the vrm plastic cover? It should be two screws on the front of the vrm to remove the plastic cover and then a single screw below that holding the pcb correct or do I need to remove the middle screw on the back of the motherboard as well?
I'm normally wary of 'unpacking' videos without commentary, but this one made me reconsider. How nice it was just to follow along as the assembly went on. Great way to do it. And nice editing. This part is what is missing in so many reviews out there. How to assemble the damn thing matters a lot for your satisfaction, and it is something impossible to find out until you bought the thing. I think I got more out of watching this video than watching a long ranty video by gamerts nexus or reading an endless amount of copy on anandtech or similar text heavy and benchmark obsessed review. (Also love the An der Schönen Blaue Donau background music. Straus doesn't just rock. He waltzes 🤘🎻)
Any idea if the cooler can be mounted with the heatpipes facing the i/o shroud? Its typically worse thermals to have the heatpipes upside down like in this build
How do you install the NVME if you're using one stick? The manual instructs using a rubber thingy so the NVME doesn't bend but I can't tell how the rubber thing is installed via diagram.
Since it is made to be compatible with various thicknesses of NVMe, the height is often insufficient even with basic rubber supports. I usually fold the extra thermal pad in this case to keep the NVMe from bending by adjusting the height.
Hey, any chance you could post a video on how to remove the additional heatsink located on the front nvme slot? I tried my best and i couldn't figure it. Even just a detailed instruction hels big time. Thank you
Since I do not currently own the product, I will replace it with a description. 1. Remove the top M.2 slot heatsink. 2. You must remove the add-on card located directly below the M.2 slot. To do this, you must first remove the plastic cover covering the VRM heat sink. 3. To remove the plastic cover covering the VRM heat sink, loosen and remove the visible screw. (Some are hidden inside the metal dust filter.) 4. If you have removed the plastic VRM cover, you will see the screw that secures the add-on card that you tried to remove in step 2. Once you loosen that screw, you can lift the add-on card up and take it out. * If the add-on card does not lift, check that there are no additional screws holding it in place. 5. If you look at the back of the add-on card you removed, you will see the screws securing the lower heatsink that you want to remove. Once you remove that, you can remove the lower heat sink. 6. Place the add-on card back in its original position, press it in, and then tighten the fixing screw.
Did you retail box and motherboard static bag ckme sealed just recived my board from amazon in the retail box with my shipping address label stuck on, and seal is this how they come? Is this the norm?
question, the plastic end on the very right of the pcie slot, is that necessary for anything? mine ripped out when i was taking out my graphics card and i dont know exactly why its there anyway
At the end of the PCIe slot, plastic acts as a latch that secures the graphics card when it is mounted. Even if it is broken, it does not interfere with the operation, so you don't have to worry too much. In general, when mounting a graphics card, it is fixed by tightening the screw to the case, so you do not have to worry about the graphic card falling out of the slot arbitrarily.
I don't think you need to use it. I bought it because it looked cool in appearance. I bought it because I thought it would be easy to wipe the thermal paste when replacing the CPU cooler, but there was nothing very comfortable.
straight to the point information. bravo! :) I use the board since a week now. The only issue that I had was during the Windows 11 setup: drivers for LAN and WiFi were not present with the media creation tool usb stick. So I had to use the USB-C monitors LAN port to even have a chance to get out of the network selection screen. Perhaps a "USB to Ethernet" adapter does the job too. Update: with BIOS version 1409 the BIOS will create a virtual CD drive to provide the Intel LAN driver.
You can load the drivers via USB drive, using Shift + F10 to open a command prompt. Search for "Troubleshooting - How to fix no Wi-Fi network connectivity when installing Windows 11" from ASUS. Of course, you need something to load them onto the USB stick as well...
@@TheGreenReaper thanks for the reply! you mean the method of turning off the network assistant in the command line, right... Apparently M$ "fixed" that with my version of the media creation tool and instantly restarts the network picker overlay.
@@Rasenmaehermann89 Well it's more along the lines lf "you can start Explorer from it, open a driver package you put onto a USB stick, then restart and it'll work".
@@TheGreenReaper interesting! and totally bollocks. Why am I supposed to do this as as an end user.... 😄 I thought of that solution but didnt know one was able to open the explorer. thanks m8!
@@Rasenmaehermann89 It's an interesting question, but I think one for ASUS to sort out with Microsoft (probably not giving enough lead time to get into that version of Win11).
ordered everything on your list except the case went with a different ssd as well but when i went to order the nzxt h! V2 it only has a aio which i wont need since i bought the Sl-100 didnt see a version thats air cooled would this build fit in a n200
having a hard time finding that cpu cooler in black or gray will noctua or bequiet cpu coolers work in that case and motherboard combination aoong with that ssd cooler
would you say the fan for the vrm is necessary, or could i remove it without having to worry about temperatures rising too much? i really dislike small fans especially when the rest of the system is extremely quiet...
I don't prefer VRM heatsink equipped with a separate cooling fan. Fortunately, there was no noise from the VRM cooling fan, and I don't think there will be a big problem if the cooling fan is removed depending on the CPU to be used.
@@DalraeMyo "no noise" is a bit strong statement. In my setup with R9 7900 in cpu loads that little fan is by far the loudest part of the machine. It's not loud, but it is there and you can hear it. I'm not sure about removing it though. even with that fan VRM's go above 70°C, I wonder how much would removing that stupid mesh help.
@@DalraeMyo Thanks for that answer. Would you recommend a third party M.2 cooler in a SFF built? The AM5 mini ITX of MSI comes with an active cooler, but was wondering if a passive cooler would be good too.
I also prefer the passive type M.2 heat sink. There was no dramatic difference in cooling performance between expensive and affordable products. I usually choose products with a clean design at a reasonable price.
Hello you have a new subscriber. I have a question, I removed the NVMe heatsink cover but for the life of me, I can’t remove the bottom pad with the blue tape that has spacers. Is there a trick to remove the bottom pad? I want to use a different heatsink as well.
To remove the bottom heat sink from the top M.2 slot, remove the center PCB substrate for a while and remove the bottom screw of the PCB substrate. (The thermal pad can be removed without removing.)
To put it more simply, it is the panel (PCB) with the bottom heatsink of the front M.2 slot. A PCB of add-on type that can be removed by removing the VRM cover and a few screws. If you look at the bottom of the temporarily removed PCB, there is a screw that secures the bottom M.2 heat sink, and if you remove it, you can remove the bottom heat sink of the front M.2 slot.@@alanjimenez4474
I don't know if the 120mm cooler can be installed on the back of the NR200P case even if the plastic cover is removed. The plastic cover is not thicker than the previous motherboard.
I have the same board and plan on using it in the NZXT H1 just like you showed in the video, also as far as thermals go in the H1 V2 do you think its worth it swapping out the 92mm exhaust fan for a Be Quiet or Noctua one? I haven't used any NZXT fans yet and I'm not sure about the noise they may generate. Great review as well!
I plan on doing a similar build, same motherboard with a Ryzen 9 7900x3d, rx 7900 xtx and either the H1 v2 or the revolt 3, don’t know wich one to pick. What do you think ?
@@J.l198 I haven''t had any experience with the revolt 3 but here's my opinion: The H1 is generally the better case as it comes as a kit with most of the components preinstalled, also the H1 is considerably smaller than the revolt 3 whilst still maintaining good hardware compatibility. Although if you're going to be using your 7900x3d at full load with something like rendering then the H1 might not be the best choice, as it only supports 140mm radiators which will be fine for gaming, but might struggle at higher heat loads (+150w). Overall it depends what you're going to be using the system for, for gaming I would definitely take the H1, but for productivity I'd look at the revolt 3, or even another case entirely.
@@Swiss4.2 yeah man that’s what someone else recommended for me, that’s why I wanted the h1 it’s a kit, but for me I’m rendering and might need to use a better cooler for the cpu, do you recommend any good coolers ?
@@J.l198 For the H1 you're pretty limited on what you can put in there, you can replace the 140mm cooler with an air cooler but it wont give you a noticeable drop in temps so I wouldn't recommend it. The revolt 3 has support for 240 and 280mm radiators, although I've never used the revolt 3 so idk how difficult it will be to build with a 240mm radiator. Honestly if you need really good cpu cooling I would also consider the ssupd meshlicious and meshroom as those cases have really good support for radiators.
I remember it was about a minute. The boot logo took more than 20 seconds to output to the display. It takes 1.5 to 2 times longer to boot than Intel systems.
@@DalraeMyo thx, i have a problem with my build maybe you can help. So i build the pc everything works installed windows and some time later no display anymore i can only go in bios sometimes when i disconnect power and connect it again any idea?
Did you use the SSD with the OS installed on your previous system without a new OS installation? (For OS, a fresh installation is recommended when the system changes.) If this is not the issue, was there an option that you changed among the BIOS options?@@theJonker69
@@DalraeMyo its a full fresh install i used a usb with windows on for installation and didn't change anything in bios already did a full bios update also
How long does it take to boot? If it takes more than 20 seconds, adjust the memory settings in the BIOS. Try changing the memory frequency to a 5200 MHz clock and boot.@@theJonker69
Have now this board, but my chipset temps wrong 70-78 c. In room 26c. Dont know why so hot. Use asus ap201 case, 7800x3d uv pbo -25, noctua d15 cpu cooler, gpu 7900xtx tuf uv, 5 fans be quiet sw3 1-120 4-140, 2 x 2tb kingston kc3000 and ram gskill 6000 36 use EXPO. You have sff and get way better temps! wtf! What i do wrong? Or its bad mb? bios last 1616.
I don't know in detail either. However, the AMD chipset temperature of the previous generation was high, so I think this generation is also high. In my case, I think the temperature is a little lower because I use a top-down CPU cooler.
why your unboxing is so great and straight to the point? and no huge intro talks as others...man, just keep it up like that please!! Subscribed clearly!
I love classic music and itx boards. Amazing video! 10/10
love ur videos. no bs, just raw content
Perfect, thanks!
To remove the M.2 PCB add-on do I have to remove a screw on the back of the motherboard or just a screw that is under the vrm plastic cover? It should be two screws on the front of the vrm to remove the plastic cover and then a single screw below that holding the pcb correct or do I need to remove the middle screw on the back of the motherboard as well?
Nice music. It's therapy to watch this
I'm normally wary of 'unpacking' videos without commentary, but this one made me reconsider. How nice it was just to follow along as the assembly went on. Great way to do it. And nice editing. This part is what is missing in so many reviews out there. How to assemble the damn thing matters a lot for your satisfaction, and it is something impossible to find out until you bought the thing.
I think I got more out of watching this video than watching a long ranty video by gamerts nexus or reading an endless amount of copy on anandtech or similar text heavy and benchmark obsessed review.
(Also love the An der Schönen Blaue Donau background music. Straus doesn't just rock. He waltzes 🤘🎻)
Great video as usual
Love this amazing low temps on the 7900
Nice air cooled build. Great vids.
Link to the memory/ram you used?
woah i never know you could ditch the original latch and just use thermaright secure frame, is it more recomended that way?
I use it because it is convenient to wipe the thermal paste when replacing the CPU cooler. I don't think frame installation is mandatory.
Any idea if the cooler can be mounted with the heatpipes facing the i/o shroud? Its typically worse thermals to have the heatpipes upside down like in this build
Yes, it is possible to install the CPU cooler by rotating it 180 degrees.
How do you install the NVME if you're using one stick? The manual instructs using a rubber thingy so the NVME doesn't bend but I can't tell how the rubber thing is installed via diagram.
Since it is made to be compatible with various thicknesses of NVMe, the height is often insufficient even with basic rubber supports.
I usually fold the extra thermal pad in this case to keep the NVMe from bending by adjusting the height.
Hey, any chance you could post a video on how to remove the additional heatsink located on the front nvme slot? I tried my best and i couldn't figure it. Even just a detailed instruction hels big time. Thank you
Since I do not currently own the product, I will replace it with a description.
1. Remove the top M.2 slot heatsink.
2. You must remove the add-on card located directly below the M.2 slot. To do this, you must first remove the plastic cover covering the VRM heat sink.
3. To remove the plastic cover covering the VRM heat sink, loosen and remove the visible screw. (Some are hidden inside the metal dust filter.)
4. If you have removed the plastic VRM cover, you will see the screw that secures the add-on card that you tried to remove in step 2. Once you loosen that screw, you can lift the add-on card up and take it out.
* If the add-on card does not lift, check that there are no additional screws holding it in place.
5. If you look at the back of the add-on card you removed, you will see the screws securing the lower heatsink that you want to remove. Once you remove that, you can remove the lower heat sink.
6. Place the add-on card back in its original position, press it in, and then tighten the fixing screw.
@@DalraeMyo A million thanks for this detailed instruction🙏, now I can finally install my my Corsair LPX nvme drive in front slot.
does this board have work arounds for the C-state limiter
Hi, is this AM5 secure frame necessary to buy separately ? I have Deepcool assasin 4s without this frame
am5 thermal guard is sold separately.
It plays a role in preventing thermal paste from flowing down the side of the CPU to some extent.
메인보드 뒷판에 있는 m.2 ssd 방열판 넣어도 케이스랑 간섭 없으셨나요?
Was looking at this board for a new build, any problems booting up or coil whine?
The board I used didn't have any problems.
Did you retail box and motherboard static bag ckme sealed just recived my board from amazon in the retail box with my shipping address label stuck on, and seal is this how they come? Is this the norm?
In the case of Korea, a separate distributor sells the product, so I don't know how the Amazon delivery comes.
question, the plastic end on the very right of the pcie slot, is that necessary for anything? mine ripped out when i was taking out my graphics card and i dont know exactly why its there anyway
At the end of the PCIe slot, plastic acts as a latch that secures the graphics card when it is mounted.
Even if it is broken, it does not interfere with the operation, so you don't have to worry too much. In general, when mounting a graphics card, it is fixed by tightening the screw to the case, so you do not have to worry about the graphic card falling out of the slot arbitrarily.
Instant thumb up because of the music.
Is it recomended to use the AM5 thermalright secure frame instead of the original one? my board is almost arrived :)
I don't think you need to use it. I bought it because it looked cool in appearance. I bought it because I thought it would be easy to wipe the thermal paste when replacing the CPU cooler, but there was nothing very comfortable.
straight to the point information. bravo! :) I use the board since a week now. The only issue that I had was during the Windows 11 setup: drivers for LAN and WiFi were not present with the media creation tool usb stick. So I had to use the USB-C monitors LAN port to even have a chance to get out of the network selection screen. Perhaps a "USB to Ethernet" adapter does the job too. Update: with BIOS version 1409 the BIOS will create a virtual CD drive to provide the Intel LAN driver.
You can load the drivers via USB drive, using Shift + F10 to open a command prompt. Search for "Troubleshooting - How to fix no Wi-Fi network connectivity when installing Windows 11" from ASUS.
Of course, you need something to load them onto the USB stick as well...
@@TheGreenReaper thanks for the reply! you mean the method of turning off the network assistant in the command line, right... Apparently M$ "fixed" that with my version of the media creation tool and instantly restarts the network picker overlay.
@@Rasenmaehermann89 Well it's more along the lines lf "you can start Explorer from it, open a driver package you put onto a USB stick, then restart and it'll work".
@@TheGreenReaper interesting! and totally bollocks. Why am I supposed to do this as as an end user.... 😄
I thought of that solution but didnt know one was able to open the explorer. thanks m8!
@@Rasenmaehermann89 It's an interesting question, but I think one for ASUS to sort out with Microsoft (probably not giving enough lead time to get into that version of Win11).
Do I need to remove the VRM heatsink to get to the Wi-Fi card, or do I just need to remove the plastic IO cover?
As far as I remember, it was accessible by removing the plastic cover.
Hello, great video. Is posible change de wifi card?
I haven't replaced the wifi card myself, but a v-m.2 pcie type WIFI card was used and could be detached.
NZHT H1机箱，酷！我昨天刚买了这个机箱，准备在这个机箱搭建240分体水冷方案，这块主板看起来非常不错，但是和GIGBYTE的b650i aorus 比起来怎么样呢？
前置M.2插槽高度不高，与CPU散热器的兼容性问题较少。
ordered everything on your list except the case went with a different ssd as well but when i went to order the nzxt h! V2 it only has a aio which i wont need since i bought the Sl-100 didnt see a version thats air cooled would this build fit in a n200
if you used the nzxt HI v2 did you get it without the aio why didnt you use the aio
having a hard time finding that cpu cooler in black or gray will noctua or bequiet cpu coolers work in that case and motherboard combination aoong with that ssd cooler
The URL below lists the CPU coolers compatible with the motherboard. I hope the information is helpful.
www.caselabs.org/motherboards/asus-b650e-i
would you say the fan for the vrm is necessary, or could i remove it without having to worry about temperatures rising too much? i really dislike small fans especially when the rest of the system is extremely quiet...
I don't prefer VRM heatsink equipped with a separate cooling fan. Fortunately, there was no noise from the VRM cooling fan, and I don't think there will be a big problem if the cooling fan is removed depending on the CPU to be used.
@@DalraeMyo "no noise" is a bit strong statement. In my setup with R9 7900 in cpu loads that little fan is by far the loudest part of the machine.
It's not loud, but it is there and you can hear it.
I'm not sure about removing it though. even with that fan VRM's go above 70°C, I wonder how much would removing that stupid mesh help.
update: VRM fan can be disabled in bios. In my specific case (R9 7900 + Noctua P1) temperature difference on VRM is minimal with the fan off.
what type of PCIe x4 riser to graphic card, where did you get it?)
If you are asking about the PCIe 4.0 version riser cable, it is the bundled riser cable in the NZXT H1 v2 case.
how are the temps so cool with a low profile cooler
Among my channel videos, there are many Lowprofile CPU cooler test videos using Ryzen 97900/7900X. It would be good to refer to it.
@@DalraeMyo i understand. most reviewers i see with watercooling usually have it at 80 degrees so surprised to see 60s on low profile air
Does the MSI also has a VRM active cooler installed? I fear that the MSI/ASUS VRM coolers will make noise in the future.
The noise from the VRM cooler was not intrusive. EDGE boards do not have separate VRM cooling fans fitted.
@@DalraeMyo Thanks for that answer. Would you recommend a third party M.2 cooler in a SFF built? The AM5 mini ITX of MSI comes with an active cooler, but was wondering if a passive cooler would be good too.
I also prefer the passive type M.2 heat sink. There was no dramatic difference in cooling performance between expensive and affordable products. I usually choose products with a clean design at a reasonable price.
@@DalraeMyo This is good information, thanks again!
Hello you have a new subscriber. I have a question, I removed the NVMe heatsink cover but for the life of me, I can’t remove the bottom pad with the blue tape that has spacers. Is there a trick to remove the bottom pad? I want to use a different heatsink as well.
To remove the bottom heat sink from the top M.2 slot, remove the center PCB substrate for a while and remove the bottom screw of the PCB substrate. (The thermal pad can be removed without removing.)
@@DalraeMyo thank you for the response. What do you mean by the PCB substrate? I am sorry I am quite confused.
It is an add-on type PCB just above the chipset heatsink. It is secured with screws and is detachable.@@alanjimenez4474
To put it more simply, it is the panel (PCB) with the bottom heatsink of the front M.2 slot. A PCB of add-on type that can be removed by removing the VRM cover and a few screws. If you look at the bottom of the temporarily removed PCB, there is a screw that secures the bottom M.2 heat sink, and if you remove it, you can remove the bottom heat sink of the front M.2 slot.@@alanjimenez4474
@@DalraeMyo thank you so much! You helped me figure it out. I was confused because in your video you didn’t show that step. Thanks for everything!
I'm worried for the I225 and mediatek wifi/BT!
can the vrm cover on this mobo be taken off also so that it can fits rear intake 120mm fan? (talking about nr200p case)
I don't know if the 120mm cooler can be installed on the back of the NR200P case even if the plastic cover is removed. The plastic cover is not thicker than the previous motherboard.
@@DalraeMyo if not thicker then maybe it can ya
I have the same board and plan on using it in the NZXT H1 just like you showed in the video, also as far as thermals go in the H1 V2 do you think its worth it swapping out the 92mm exhaust fan for a Be Quiet or Noctua one? I haven't used any NZXT fans yet and I'm not sure about the noise they may generate.
Great review as well!
The NZXT rear 92mm cooling fan can be used with sufficient quietness if there is a proper RPM adjustment.
I plan on doing a similar build, same motherboard with a Ryzen 9 7900x3d, rx 7900 xtx and either the H1 v2 or the revolt 3, don’t know wich one to pick. What do you think ?
@@J.l198 I haven''t had any experience with the revolt 3 but here's my opinion: The H1 is generally the better case as it comes as a kit with most of the components preinstalled, also the H1 is considerably smaller than the revolt 3 whilst still maintaining good hardware compatibility. Although if you're going to be using your 7900x3d at full load with something like rendering then the H1 might not be the best choice, as it only supports 140mm radiators which will be fine for gaming, but might struggle at higher heat loads (+150w). Overall it depends what you're going to be using the system for, for gaming I would definitely take the H1, but for productivity I'd look at the revolt 3, or even another case entirely.
@@Swiss4.2 yeah man that’s what someone else recommended for me, that’s why I wanted the h1 it’s a kit, but for me I’m rendering and might need to use a better cooler for the cpu, do you recommend any good coolers ?
@@J.l198 For the H1 you're pretty limited on what you can put in there, you can replace the 140mm cooler with an air cooler but it wont give you a noticeable drop in temps so I wouldn't recommend it. The revolt 3 has support for 240 and 280mm radiators, although I've never used the revolt 3 so idk how difficult it will be to build with a 240mm radiator. Honestly if you need really good cpu cooling I would also consider the ssupd meshlicious and meshroom as those cases have really good support for radiators.
hi, how long is the boot time of the STRIX B650E-I?
I remember it was about a minute. The boot logo took more than 20 seconds to output to the display.
It takes 1.5 to 2 times longer to boot than Intel systems.
@@DalraeMyo thanks a lot for the reply!
How did you remove the bottom thermal pad on the M.2?
When you lift the M.2 add-on card, there is a fixed screw at the bottom.
@@DalraeMyo thank you, didn’t notice that before
You also reviewed MSI B650i, which do you prefer?
I was more satisfied with the ASUS product.
Do you happen to know where the CMOS battery is for this board?
Located between the LAN port and the WIFI port under the VRM heatsink cover.
where''d you get the mesh plate for h1v2?
In the case of Korean vendors, the importer sells spare parts separately.
자세한 리뷰 고맙습니다. 구매 고려중인데 혹시 보드 전원부 방열판에 장착된 팬을 빼버린 채 사용하면 위험할까요? 참고로 게임을 오랫동안 가동하는 편은 아닙니다. 영상편집을 위해 다빈치리졸브 정도 사용하구요..
케이스 내부에 공기 흐름만 원활하다면 떼고사용하고 문제될건 없으리라 생각됩니다.
You can just off fan in bios
슾갤에서 H1 V2 세팅을 위해 달래묘님
영상을 많이 봤습니다!! 많은 도움 되고있는데,
혹시 이 보드나 MSI 엣지 후방에 달래묘님처럼
M.2 SSD에 방열판을 달아서 설치하려고 하는데
혹시 방열판 포함 최대높이 얼마까지 괜찮을까요..?
최대 높이는 직접 측정해보지 않아서 모르겠습니다.
방열판의 높이는 SSD를 제외한 3mm ~ 4mm 정도가 적당한걸로 기억합니다.
This is interesting. How much does it cost there? Planning to build one.
I think the amount used for the system is about $1800.
달래묘님 삼성 램에 장착하신 방열판 정보 좀 알 수 있을까요?
장우컴퍼니 메모리 방열판으로 검색하면 나오는 제품입니다.
@@DalraeMyo 감사합니다!
How about 2×32 gb ram memory? Does it support?
Compatible up to 96GB (48GBx2) configurations, I've used 64GB (32GBx2) configurations before and it worked fine.
the board still good ? no coil whine ?
I bought the same model about 3 times, but there was no coil noise.
Which one seemed better overall? itx Asus or MSI?
Looking at the quality of the product, I liked the ASUS product more.
1:50... 이 제품에 팬 들어가 있나요? 구매전에 유튜브 리뷰 영상 찾아보는데 팬이 있으면 안되는데 큰일날뻔했네용;;;
전원부 방열판에쪽에 쿨링팬 내장되어있습니다.
4:46 ~ 4:47 what this drive shape??
뭐야 한국사람이였네
M.2 드라이브를 말씀하시는거면, 마이크로닉스 워프실드 S라는 방열판입니다.
@@DalraeMyo뒤에있는 원형모양이여!
말씀하신 4:46 부분의 원형 모양이라 하시면, CPU쿨러의 히트파이프 부분을 말씀하시는건가요? CPU쿨러는 써멀라이트 SI-100이라는 모델입니다. @@곧갑니다-m1n
@@DalraeMyo엄지로 내리고있는거요...
now it can support 2 X 48gb of ram sticks(96gb total) Bios update
Have u tried it?
I still think 64GB is enough, so I'm currently using it in a 64GB (32GBx2) configuration.
@@DalraeMyo for gaming BUT while i use photoshop or 3d software 64gb are most of the time filled and the system is slow(7950x)
where to find cmos battery plz need help
When the VRM cover and the VRM heat shield are removed, it is located directly next to the WIFI/BT module.
@@DalraeMyo thx, i have a problem with my build maybe you can help. So i build the pc everything works installed windows and some time later no display anymore i can only go in bios sometimes when i disconnect power and connect it again any idea?
Did you use the SSD with the OS installed on your previous system without a new OS installation? (For OS, a fresh installation is recommended when the system changes.)
If this is not the issue, was there an option that you changed among the BIOS options?@@theJonker69
@@DalraeMyo its a full fresh install i used a usb with windows on for installation and didn't change anything in bios already did a full bios update also
How long does it take to boot? If it takes more than 20 seconds, adjust the memory settings in the BIOS. Try changing the memory frequency to a 5200 MHz clock and boot.@@theJonker69
7950x3d 버틸수있겠죠?
7950X3D면 더 저렴한 보드로 가셔도 남아돌겁니다.
Have now this board, but my chipset temps wrong 70-78 c. In room 26c. Dont know why so hot. Use asus ap201 case, 7800x3d uv pbo -25, noctua d15 cpu cooler, gpu 7900xtx tuf uv, 5 fans be quiet sw3 1-120 4-140, 2 x 2tb kingston kc3000 and ram gskill 6000 36 use EXPO. You have sff and get way better temps! wtf! What i do wrong? Or its bad mb? bios last 1616.
I don't know in detail either. However, the AMD chipset temperature of the previous generation was high, so I think this generation is also high. In my case, I think the temperature is a little lower because I use a top-down CPU cooler.
목소리가 귀여워요
????ㅋㅋ
ssd 지지대 탈거 어떻게하나요
애드온 카드 분리 후 후면에 나사 2개만 풀어주면 제거가 가능합니다.
Unfortunately my board was doa... now I'm waiting for Asus to exchange it
7900 온도가 착하네
Asus VRM cooling sucks as always. Borderline primitive - chunk of metal + cheap fan.
혹시 이거 뒷편 ssd장착법 나사는 메인보드에 동봉되어있나요?? 왜 안보이지..
새제품이면 별도로 악세서리 박스쪽에 봉투로 담겨있습니다.