Part 1: GR Yaris Power Stages Parts Stage 1 & 2
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- As kindly requested after the 5 Power Stages video, I am coming back with some new videos covering in detail the exact parts selection that I suggest to change in order to achieve the best GR Yaris power package for each Power Stage. Here we will cover Stage 1 & Stage 2, in next videos the other three levels of modification. Power is coming to You, in the right way!
STAGE 1 300bhp Engine & Main Body Weight
MANDATORY
GPF Delete
Panel Filter - Cotton (BMC, K&N, etc.) NOT SPONGE!!
EcuTek Stage 1 remap
OPTIONAL
Shifter cables Aluminium Bushings (placed on gearbox lever connections)
Cut Plastic in the two lateral slots next to Toyota emblem, front bumper
Heat Wrap, insulate, UP-Pipe from intercooler to throttle body
Lithium Battery: Deadweight Industries Touge 500 or Equivalent
Front and Rear Strut Bars
STAGE 2 330bhp Engine & Main Body Weight
MANDATORY
Downpipe-back 70mm exhaust system
Intake System
Intercooler with pipes (Forge Motorsport or C-TEC Performance or equivalent)
Oil Radiator (HEL Performance)
EcuTek Stage 2 remap
OPTIONAL
Shifter cables Aluminium Bushings (placed on gearbox lever connections)
Cut Plastic in the two lateral slots next to Toyota emblem, front bumper
Heat Wrap, insulate, UP-Pipe from intercooler to throttle body
Lithium Battery: Deadweight Industries Touge 500 or Equivalent
Front and Rear Strut Bars
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
00:28 - Stage 1 detailed instructions
07:55 - Stage 2 detailed instructions
12:55 - Upcoming content
13:25 - Final words
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Best gr4Y information . 🇦🇺👍
Thankyou Laurie!
Great content, thank you!
Thankyou for following and supporting Daniel!
Good and sensible advice without selling BS, thanks AJ, I actually did eye those 2 vents next to the Toyota emblem and really thought of opening them taking out the middle rib, since you have done it , it will definitely be my next small mod😋👌🏻👌🏻
Cheers Eric! Yes, there are many small mods that are free and make a lot of difference once all together!
Also in motorsports, this frequently makes the difference between normal and winning teams!
What a nice Video ! Im a Rally Driver Like you and i found your Channel ! Very nice
I would love to have a deeper explanation on your Stock airbox Mod (i didnt understand what i need to do there?) And the intercooler Pipe ..would like to See what exactly you mean :( maybe another little Video with some Pictures or so that WE know what you mean
Thankyou Peter, pleasure! I will do so, of course!
Thankyou mate!!
Super description encore bravo pour ton travail.
Pour tout je suis entièrement d’accord pour le refroidisseur d’huile hell est très bien surtout niveau raccord.
Par contre sur l’échangeur je trouve le wagner tu inf de meilleure qualité même si le forge est supérieur au système Airtec de mon avis.
Merci Anthony, Je comprend ce que tu dis, entièrement, je suis du meme avis !
Thanks for the last videos!
I'm developing my GR Yaris for track days, and I'm looking at small power improvement with new intake and outtake. Sound for me is secondary and focus on optiming flows and temperatures in the system. Looking at possible gpf/cat delete options, but I'm afraid that wider diameter in downpipe(70mm) makes no good if stock exhaust left with its 67mm... But I'm just started research. Would be great to know your opinion in next videos or comments.
Hello there! If you plan small power improvements, just get a Hjs kat, and an opf delete, and you will be fine! Rear section makes little or no power difference at the near stock power levels!
BMC filter ordered! 😃 My very first modification 🤣
A good start Alexey!!
Hi Adriano
Do we have any GPF-delete part which can be installed to standard exhaust to have 70mm. All parts which I found are 76mm which you don't recommend for stg1/2/3
@alexeyyatsew8004 if you Contact InoxCar they will fix you up with the part you’re looking for!
Very informative on GR Yaris tuning stages. What we don’t know as of now is how much torque can the 8speed DAT cope?
Outside of Toyota’s engineers and ZF, I think nobody knows now. From similar gearbox experiences, I think it will be able to take a lot, but not before having the possibility to modify software limitations
@@AJClubsport Agree as car is still not available for delivery yet. My ideal way of tuning is to take it to the max within the safety parameters of stock engine & turbo limits. Once you go for bigger turbo you will need to bulletproof the engine & so forth. It will be an endless modding job to strive for more power & power is addictive. One must know when to stop. Upgrade parts that will only enhance the longevity of the engine. I’m eyeing the DAT version. I had a Mitsi Evo5 in the late 90s before & I started changing to a bigger turbo, reinforced clutch plate, exhaust system & so forth. The whole characteristic of the car is changed as a result. Eventually I removed all the upgraded parts & sold it.
A std Evo5 is much nicer to drive.
@dlff168 I agree, if you daily and use it mainly on the road, there is only so much to do before messing it up! 👍👍
I don’t go to track or gravel. Predominantly for road use only & it would be good to have more power but not overboard. Coming back to Mk2 or Facelift GR Yaris whatever you want to call it. Toyota engineers have somehow bulletproof the engine further based from past experience with the Mk1 model. Surely then this Mk2 can cope with more tuning power than the Mk1. Given the same stage of tuning the Mk2 will & can squeeze more power than the Mk1.
Yes, what you say is correct, you will get a bit more out of it!
Very cool and interesting video as usual!
Talking about cable shifter solid bushing, are you referring to the 4 bushings supporting the shifter assembly or the 2 bushings at the end of the cables? I've seen Hardrace is having both, are they ok in your opinion?
Thanks!
Thankyou Matteo!
I’m talking of the two on the gearbox side! Incidentally they split in four to insert from top and bottom
Le problème des supports de boites c’est que le support en lui même et tout en plastique blanc. Donc si on rigidifie le support aura forcément du jeux car tout l’ensemble est en plastique. Personnellement j’ai préféré mettre un short shift sur la boîte de vitesse de marque forge Motorsport
Tu as fait bien, ca rule mieux maintenat?
@@AJClubsportoui rien à voir le système short shift Forge est vraiment très bien conçu et fiable plus de 10000 km avec
Merci, bien a savoir!
ciao adriano video sempre top ! le boccole che suggerisci sono quelle che vanno sulla testa cavi lato cambio giusto ?
Ciao, grazie! 🤩 trattandosi di un componente molto semplice in alluminio, puoi anche prenderle da Hardrace Europe. Io le avevo prese da Lamspeed. Ricorda di usare del grasso lubrificante denso nel montaggio
avendo gia installato leva CAE con queste boccole penso diventi super preciso
Most people seem to do eventuri or air intake at stage 1
Yes, and they loose power all the way over 5000rpm, just because there aren’t other solid options out there…
Hi AJ,
how about to have scara73 throttle body for stage 1 and 2? 70mm exhaust on stage 1 until moving to stage 2 will be a step back?
Also want to ask about oil catch can...is it "highly recommended" for the car? for stage 1&2?
The throttle body will always help!
70mm exhaust too: just remember that a different or no kat will give fault error: only Hjs works 100%.
The Catch Can is a MUST IMMEDIATELY Install, even on stock car, the day you receive it. Thankyou for your support Jans!
@@AJClubsport is it necessary to have a catch can or just your solution with a blind plug on the intake is enough?
Functionally it is the same thing, give or take. The important thing is having a can that doesn’t dirty all the area around it, as is happening to me now. Am waiting on a HEL catch can kit now…
@@AJClubsport Ok I got U, cheers ;)
Where or how can i get a set of those shifter bushings?
From Hardrace Europe, Scara73 or LAM Speed
So no valve springs at stg 2?
Sorry, I didn’t specify, as I give it for granted: will add to summary
Dies GPF delete ONLY make the GR more loud? Hiw about startup?
A little bit louder, but quite a few horsepower more!
Two big remarks
- GPF does something, direct injection on gasoline causes massive soot count, basically like a bad diesel but less visible because the soot is smaller (but tailpipe will get very black on inside very quickly without GPF). GPF stops a lot of those emissions but without the DPF issues (again because smaller particles). HJS cat keeps full emissions compliance and is fully legal and has same or better power and response gains. Also tuning cars for many years, I notice how it has affected my lungs... When the GPF is there it is a bit of a shame to turn back progress for cleaner air imho, respect your own body too ;)
- OEM air filter is actually very good, large, good filtering (important for long term engine longevity) and proven good flow. I just change it more often. No messing about with oiling cotton filters... What does need improving is IAT, the intake flap takes in hot air above 4k rpm, you can log it easily. Several scoop solutions exist, lower IAT helps turbo compressor efficiency. I also put bigger piping between airbox and turbo, it helps with response and power, together similar to Eventuri or similar which is also an option of course. Thanks for the tip on opening up next to the Toyota logo, will check it out.
I will do Ecutek when they can do flexfuel, we have e85 easy available here.
Cheers,
The Cat and GPF are two separate matters, and I agree in line of principle. Fact is that I have seen important gains from removing GPF when I was on near to stock configuration. Can’t argue with the particulate. I am not a fan of increasing size of intake pipe from filter box to turbo, because it lessens the compressor’s power to suck air thru the filter efficiently. Paper filter can’t flow more than 60% of a cotton element, but if you’re happy I am.
If one closes the flap (I agree on it bringing hotter air), you need to compensate by opening much more the front intake. I have done all the study when we designed my carbon airbox, that still uses the original shape filter element, with huge gains because of its design
@@AJClubsport I know GPF removal helps quite a lot too, I just point out it has a real function. Larger inlet pipe doesn’t reduce compressor power, it reduces flow loss and thus improves compressor pressure ratio and also gives a larger body of air to suck in transient. Gains are similar to good complete aftermarket airbox. Stock filter element gives same power at 400hp level as removing it completely, it works well... And aftermarket filters usually have much worse filtering... Filtering is important long term - I wanne keep it long ;)
Don't close flap then you have restriction, I use Forge intake duct. But can also make custom box for sure. For those driving in gravel/ice etc it is good to keep the ceiling position of filter element. Don't fix what is not broken, many just do aftermarket intake because that is 'standard tuning'....
@onehorsepower I’m sorry to disagree with you on this, really, but the intake tract being wider does slow the air suction, keeping compressor wheel geometry, speed and housing the same. In my direct experience, the main airbox used out there does bring losses at low and midrange because of this. Always talking of Stg1 and Stg2 power levels.
I can also tell you that if I only switch airbox between OEM and my design carbon one, the car doesn’t manage to run and chokes from 2500rpm on the exact same ecu mapping.
I can agree with ice use and filter position in that case!
@@AJClubsport true stock airbox is restricted when flap is closed, so low rpm gains are possible with aftermarket. Turbine doesnt care what speed air is doing 0,5m away from the compressor, at the tip of compressor blades the speed is decided by the connection size. What it cares about is the temperature and pressure of the air arriving at the compressor.... Possibly that geometry 10cm before has small influence, but it is a bend so hardly ideal anyway, and larger size bend will give less swirl...
No GPF delete possible in Germany….😢
Sorry for that!
The exhaust modification us very interesting, Adriano. I got one of the HJS downpipes in the time directly after developement. I called the engineer of HJS and we speak 30 Minutes about the exhaust the downpipe and the opf/dpf. HJS tested all on the Benchflow and the result was that the dominating probleme is not the opf, the problem is the catalysator. The Opf delete they testet was bringing not more than 2 ore 3 horspower. The delete of the downpipe nearly 15 horsepower. About this result, they told me, we are not going to develope an Opf, we develope the downpipe and change the 700 ore 800 Zell catalyser into 300 Zell. You delete the opf and let the downpipe in. Hmm, crazy, many tests on the dyno get different results. In my opinion and feeling after my change to HJS downpipe in combination with the milltek resonated exhaust 3 Zoll Diameter 76 mm everything is working grate The eventury in this combination witout a mapping also is working grate. Grazy car, but your posts are also grate and very interesting@AdrianoJamesPiras
I completely agree about the downpipe improvements, but I’m not so sure of the GPF, because I also tested it myself