I'm a luthier wannabe from Italy and I've seen ALL your videos that i consider by far the best guide possible. Clear, concise and very easy to listen and understand. Awesome teacher!
From a teacher’s and guitarist’s and wannabe luthier’s perspective, your videos are brilliant. No bells or whistles, just great concise and informative advice. Thanks
It’s always nice when a student has a great (simple) idea. We can get tunnel vision when we’ve been doing something a certain way, it works okay and we don’t revisit the idea. It’s happened many times over the last 20 years for me.
I learn a lot from the students. I encourage thinking outside the box when looking for a solution...it is interesting to see what ideas some come up with. Thanks for your insightful comment.
Wonderful video, as always! Do my old eyes deceive me, or is the truss rod inserted with the active rod on top, or in other words “upside down?” Won’t that mean that the adjustment nut will work in reverse, that is turn in opposite directions for relief and back now adjusting that most folks are used to? If so, is that something you caution your customers about?
Great video as usual. Loved the anti-MacGyver non-jig for drilling the truss rod adjustment access. I am not admitting to not watching all your videos to the last fraction of a sentence, but I just noticed your crediting Summer for the video intro sequence.
Question about the StewMac truss rod. StewMac says "For proper operation, this truss rod must be installed so that the active rod (the rod with the adjustment nut) is below the passive rod." From the video (24:15), it looks like you installed it so that the active rod is *above* the active rod. I've seen other builders (Fletcher) do this too. Have you found any issues doing this way?
Hey Steve, awesome video as usual. For finishing off the shape on the headstock, any thoughts on drilling small holes for the tuner pegs before routing and just using some toothpicks as alignment pins to hold it in place rather than drilling into the neck for the usual two alignment pins?
Not sure if I'm a fan of toothpicks because of size variations. However, since the template holes for the tuners are 1/8"...I would not be against drilling 1/8" holes and 1/8" dowels as you describe. then use a "Step Bit" to make the holes larger when needed.
Hi, Steve. Thanks for the great video series. Question: At the 20:30 point, it shows the new truss rod access hole drill jig clamped down. How did you determine where to place it along the center line? Too close to the truss rod and the hole will be too high. Too far away and the hole will be too low. Thanks.
Hi Steve, your video series is inspiring and extremely helpful; thanks! I go through each episode at least 2 or 3 times to catch points I may have missed or that I wonder about at a later date. On that note, with this episode I was wondering about the installation of the Stew Mac Hot Rod truss rod. On my first neck I followed Stew Mac's instructions "The Hot Rod® fits in a straight channel. For proper operation, this truss rod must be installed so that the active rod (the rod with the adjustment nut) is below the passive rod." and thought that it puts the adjustment nut way too deep below the nut. I noticed in this video you installed the rod with the adjustment nut on top. Your method certainly makes accessing the adjustment rod much easier; but I wondered if that gives you any problems later on when trying to adjust the neck? Thanks again for sharing your advice. Randy
Here's my 2 cents - en lieu of Steve's: As far as funtionality is concerned, it should make no difference which way the rod is installed. One only has to consider which direction to turn the adjustment nut in order to tighten or loosen it. I've heard of necks that need a counter-clockwise(!) turn to *tighten* the rod... probably due to "reversed" installation.
@@kiwibass Thanks for the info. I was hoping that was the case. It sure makes the install simpler. As a first time builder I am pondering virtually each step I take. Randy
@@randyparcels9635 You're welcome! My next build will also be a "first", regarding the double-action rod. To date, I've only used the old-style variant. Good luck for your first project!
Another nice video... thanks, Steve! BUT: Do you *really* need that 4 degree angle for the TR access hole at the headstock when using a *double-action* rod? When not engaged, these rods (including the adjustment nut) are designed to be perfectly straight - contrary to the old style (Fender...) single-action ones where the TR channel is arched. So one should be perfectly fine with a "straight" (w/o horizontal angle, that is) access hole - or did I miss someting important here? ;-)
Has nothing to do with the truss rod...but everything to do with where the access would exit. With the headstock hole access, if you came straight out it would dig into the headstock surface, which means it is impossible to drill. If you angle the hole slightly, it will give you the clearance to adjust the TR with the access hole in only the swoop area of the headstock. The alternative is to rout the TR channel all the way out of the neck with the router into the headstock face. Personally preference.
@@maximumguitarworks Thx for this (logical) explanation, Steve! As to date, I've only build necks with TR access at the heel, so this may keep me from screwing up once I go the northern route... ;-)
8 minute attention span ???... Sooo... What does that say if I actually watched the video twice?? HA!! Question: Would a hockey stick type headstock be feasible without having to put in a scarf joint and angled headstock? Also have you ever done the (oak?) plug with a hole drilled for truss rod adjustment.. The way American Fenders are made?? I have a few American DZ Fenders, that I've had for years. I find it funny all the modifications they do to the DZ models now, are the very same things I would have done were I to be building my own. Though some I'm not all the impressed with. Wondering if you've looked into some of those idea's and have any intentions of incorporating some of those idea's into your own builds? IE: neck pocket and contour?
I think my stats are up to 10 minutes with your double duty! Cool! Anything is possible for the headstock. However, I try to keep my designs where the strings don't bend at the nut. That just feels right to me. I have done the plugs before. Honestly...I was going back and forth on whether to do it in my video. Not wanted the video to be an hour long is what helped me to make a decision. What I do with the plug is try to save enough of my fretboard cut offs to glue up and use for the plug...I like the color coordination. As far at the DZ Strats....I'm willing to try most things once. I do a lot of extra switching for extra voices...I like that. Funny thing is that I have been thinking about doing a compound radius on the fretboard. I might try something extrem...like 10-16...see how it goes. And anything that adds comfort...generally I'm in favor of those things.
@@maximumguitarworks The compound radius idea I think is a good one. If I'm not mistaken my Tangerine orange Strat(don't judge it's an awesome guitar) has a compound radius one piece neck. It seems to be the one that I migrate to for live shows. As someone who's all over the neck, it does save on hand tension and hopefully keeps the carpal tunnel away. Edit to add.. the radius is 10-14... so yes.. That does make a difference in hand fatigue after long playing sessions. shop.fender.com/en-US/electric-guitars/stratocaster/american-ultra-stratocaster/0118012795.html That's what I was referring to when it comes to body contouring around the neck pocket.. I've not put one in my hands as of yet.. But I do believe that has to help with access. ruclips.net/video/y29XX-9Kq30/видео.html sound check from many many moons ago with the tangerine strat..
I'm a luthier wannabe from Italy and I've seen ALL your videos that i consider by far the best guide possible. Clear, concise and very easy to listen and understand. Awesome teacher!
From a teacher’s and guitarist’s and wannabe luthier’s perspective, your videos are brilliant. No bells or whistles, just great concise and informative advice. Thanks
"Brilliant" is a word that brings higher expectations. I am trying to fly under the radar! Thanks...I appreciate your kind words.
That final step with the neck jig was fantastic. haha. Oh and then the simple jig -will be doing that. Thanks!!
not to mention all the other tips in this series. thank you.
Thanks. Simple can be better sometimes.
Really finding this series helpful so far - and yes Steve does reply to his emails very quickly! - cheers from Canada
It’s always nice when a student has a great (simple) idea. We can get tunnel vision when we’ve been doing something a certain way, it works okay and we don’t revisit the idea. It’s happened many times over the last 20 years for me.
I learn a lot from the students. I encourage thinking outside the box when looking for a solution...it is interesting to see what ideas some come up with. Thanks for your insightful comment.
That piece of block is just what i was looking for here in RUclips! Simply genius! Thanks a lot!
Based strongly on the KISS principle. Many times simple is best.
Awesome, nice gentleman, great instructor.
Great channel - lots of good clear advice. I've learnt quite a lot of new ideas and techniques. Thank you
Wonderful video, as always! Do my old eyes deceive me, or is the truss rod inserted with the active rod on top, or in other words “upside down?” Won’t that mean that the adjustment nut will work in reverse, that is turn in opposite directions for relief and back now adjusting that most folks are used to? If so, is that something you caution your customers about?
Great video as usual. Loved the anti-MacGyver non-jig for drilling the truss rod adjustment access. I am not admitting to not watching all your videos to the last fraction of a sentence, but I just noticed your crediting Summer for the video intro sequence.
Yup...you tipped your hat...or you hand...either way it's all good. Thanks.
+100 points for KISS principle
You got that right.
Love your videos
Thank you Tommy.
Jim Morrison approves the message.
Yes he would...I mean does! ;-)
This is great stuff. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Love it Steve!
Thanks Julian!
Question about the StewMac truss rod. StewMac says "For proper operation, this truss rod must be installed so that the active rod (the rod with the adjustment nut) is below the passive rod." From the video (24:15), it looks like you installed it so that the active rod is *above* the active rod. I've seen other builders (Fletcher) do this too. Have you found any issues doing this way?
Great as usual my friend. Pretty ridiculous about the 10sec clip from the last video. And I wonder, Still I wonder, Who'll stop the rain!
35 minutes me...10 seconds Queen...sure that sounds fair. ;-)
Really great videos. Thank you 🙏
Hey Steve, awesome video as usual. For finishing off the shape on the headstock, any thoughts on drilling small holes for the tuner pegs before routing and just using some toothpicks as alignment pins to hold it in place rather than drilling into the neck for the usual two alignment pins?
Not sure if I'm a fan of toothpicks because of size variations. However, since the template holes for the tuners are 1/8"...I would not be against drilling 1/8" holes and 1/8" dowels as you describe. then use a "Step Bit" to make the holes larger when needed.
Hi, Steve. Thanks for the great video series. Question: At the 20:30 point, it shows the new truss rod access hole drill jig clamped down. How did you determine where to place it along the center line? Too close to the truss rod and the hole will be too high. Too far away and the hole will be too low. Thanks.
My bad. I should have watched the whole video before asking questions. Thanks.
Been wondering since the tele builds but keep forgetting to ask, where do we find Mr. Burns for the sander?
Do a search for "model machines"...that is the name of his company. If you have any issues I will dig up a web link.
Hi Steve, your video series is inspiring and extremely helpful; thanks!
I go through each episode at least 2 or 3 times to catch points I may have missed or that I wonder about at a later date. On that note, with this episode I was wondering about the installation of the Stew Mac Hot Rod truss rod.
On my first neck I followed Stew Mac's instructions "The Hot Rod® fits in a straight channel. For proper operation, this truss rod must be installed so that the active rod (the rod with the adjustment nut) is below the passive rod." and thought that it puts the adjustment nut way too deep below the nut.
I noticed in this video you installed the rod with the adjustment nut on top. Your method certainly makes accessing the adjustment rod much easier; but I wondered if that gives you any problems later on when trying to adjust the neck?
Thanks again for sharing your advice.
Randy
Here's my 2 cents - en lieu of Steve's:
As far as funtionality is concerned, it should make no difference which way the rod is installed. One only has to consider which direction to turn the adjustment nut in order to tighten or loosen it. I've heard of necks that need a counter-clockwise(!) turn to *tighten* the rod... probably due to "reversed" installation.
P.S. for clarity's sake: "tightening the rod" here equals conteracting upbow, "loosening" means counteracting a backbow... ;-)
@@kiwibass Thanks for the info. I was hoping that was the case. It sure makes the install simpler.
As a first time builder I am pondering virtually each step I take. Randy
@@randyparcels9635 You're welcome!
My next build will also be a "first", regarding the double-action rod. To date, I've only used the old-style variant.
Good luck for your first project!
Another nice video... thanks, Steve!
BUT: Do you *really* need that 4 degree angle for the TR access hole at the headstock when using a *double-action* rod?
When not engaged, these rods (including the adjustment nut) are designed to be perfectly straight - contrary to the old style (Fender...) single-action ones where the TR channel is arched. So one should be perfectly fine with a "straight" (w/o horizontal angle, that is) access hole - or did I miss someting important here? ;-)
Has nothing to do with the truss rod...but everything to do with where the access would exit. With the headstock hole access, if you came straight out it would dig into the headstock surface, which means it is impossible to drill. If you angle the hole slightly, it will give you the clearance to adjust the TR with the access hole in only the swoop area of the headstock. The alternative is to rout the TR channel all the way out of the neck with the router into the headstock face. Personally preference.
@@maximumguitarworks Thx for this (logical) explanation, Steve!
As to date, I've only build necks with TR access at the heel, so this may keep me from screwing up once I go the northern route... ;-)
Do you have a video on stunk stripe necks?
Hi Chris...I don't think I remember doing a video on skunk stripes. They are cool for sure. Maybe some day.
@@maximumguitarworks That would be amazing. A lot of videos on RUclips I take with a pinch of salt but I can trust yours. Really great job 🙂
It was probably me texting you during the video! Sorry!
You never know.
wait, did you not epoxy the truss rod in?
Truss rod...NO. Carbon Fiber Rods...YES
Actually that should have been reign!
8 minute attention span ???... Sooo... What does that say if I actually watched the video twice?? HA!!
Question: Would a hockey stick type headstock be feasible without having to put in a scarf joint and angled headstock? Also have you ever done the (oak?) plug with a hole drilled for truss rod adjustment.. The way American Fenders are made??
I have a few American DZ Fenders, that I've had for years. I find it funny all the modifications they do to the DZ models now, are the very same things I would have done were I to be building my own. Though some I'm not all the impressed with. Wondering if you've looked into some of those idea's and have any intentions of incorporating some of those idea's into your own builds? IE: neck pocket and contour?
I think my stats are up to 10 minutes with your double duty! Cool!
Anything is possible for the headstock. However, I try to keep my designs where the strings don't bend at the nut. That just feels right to me. I have done the plugs before. Honestly...I was going back and forth on whether to do it in my video. Not wanted the video to be an hour long is what helped me to make a decision. What I do with the plug is try to save enough of my fretboard cut offs to glue up and use for the plug...I like the color coordination.
As far at the DZ Strats....I'm willing to try most things once. I do a lot of extra switching for extra voices...I like that. Funny thing is that I have been thinking about doing a compound radius on the fretboard. I might try something extrem...like 10-16...see how it goes. And anything that adds comfort...generally I'm in favor of those things.
@@maximumguitarworks The compound radius idea I think is a good one. If I'm not mistaken my Tangerine orange Strat(don't judge it's an awesome guitar) has a compound radius one piece neck. It seems to be the one that I migrate to for live shows. As someone who's all over the neck, it does save on hand tension and hopefully keeps the carpal tunnel away.
Edit to add.. the radius is 10-14... so yes.. That does make a difference in hand fatigue after long playing sessions.
shop.fender.com/en-US/electric-guitars/stratocaster/american-ultra-stratocaster/0118012795.html
That's what I was referring to when it comes to body contouring around the neck pocket.. I've not put one in my hands as of yet..
But I do believe that has to help with access.
ruclips.net/video/y29XX-9Kq30/видео.html
sound check from many many moons ago with the tangerine strat..
More Hannah.