GM 3400 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Replacement Quick Guide
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2022
- This video is for sensor A located behind the crankshaft pulley. If you need to replace sensor B, here is the video: • GM 3400 Crank Shaft Po...
Crank shaft position sensor A replacement in GM 3400 engine
Cars that have this engine:
2002-2005 Buick Rendezvous
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala
2000-2005 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
1996 Chevrolet Lumina Minivan
1997-2005 Chevrolet Venture
1999-2004 Oldsmobile Alero
1996-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette
2001-2005 Pontiac Aztek
1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am
1999-2005 Pontiac Montana
1996-1998 Pontiac Trans Sport 
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This video is for sensor A - engine has 2 crankshaft sensors. Sensor B is located under the exhaust manifold on the right side of engine (closest to the firewall). Check description for video guide for sensor B.
Great video! I bought all the tools, puller and sensor and found a wire was broken. Fixed it with a trusty electrical connector and heatshrink.
This is a great video..its quick and to the point..thanks for taking the time to make it
I like this video. Straight to the point
Thanks this video helped me out a lot to change the crank sensor on my 2001 Chevy venture I appreciate you taking the time to make the video to help others
Thank you so much.
Was there a specific torque spec for the crank gear and sensor bolts? It may have been asked already and I might’ve missed it. Thank you for taking the time to make the video
Sorry for late reply, I am sure there is a specific torque spec somewhere, but it is really hard to achieve with the pulley moving around. My method of impacting it on is probably not most appropriate, but has been working fine for over a year now without noticiable issues or vibrations
Hey man! So those m10 bolts what length are they? The ones in an OEM puller are to long ?
The puller bolts are approximately 4 inches long. You can go to a hardware store and get an assortment of M10x1.5 bolts in various lengths to make sure you get the job done without running to the store several times. Also you could use nuts or washers and stack them between the bolt head and the puller if you want to shorten the length without getting new bolts.
What is the symptoms of a bad sensor ? My friend's car runs for 10 minutes and doesn't start again after
that could be a symptom since crank sensors usually go out with the help of heat. I actually got stranded on the highway once when a crank sensor went out - fortunately I had cooler full of ice and placed an ice cube on the sensor which allowed me to get where I was going. Try checking for codes to get the best idea of what you need to avoid throwing the parts cannon at it.
Would this keep the motor from turning on? Like a crank no start?
That is correct - the engine would crank but not fire. Best way to confirm this is with a cheap $20 OBD2 scanner from Walmart
@@artemc329 yea I got the code P0336, I think the reluctor wheel is damaged on the crank pulley, it turned on but now it’s rattling hard. I’m installing a new one today.
@@dimasmafiaempire7908 That is the code of a dead crank sensor. Sometimes it will start but run very poorly and stall. Remember there are 2 crank sensors in this engine so be sure you know if its A or B.
what sensor is the one under the power steering pump?
this is the camshaft position sensor.
what does the wire connector look like from the crank sensor that it plugs to? i cannot find mine,
It should be a female connector with 2 wires that merge into the engine wiring harness that is routed at the bottom of the engine.
@@artemc329 I got the two wire connector but it plugs into the coil pack from the side of the block sensor. No other connectors on it but i did find a two wire connector that plugged into the coil pack, a black wire ground and one pink wire. I traced the pink wire back to the fuse block under hood and found that a 10 amp fuse was fed off the big yellow wire coming from the ignition. But, i do not get 12 volts at that wire but around .05 only. I do not know what this means but i think it should be 12 volts.
@@thorthunder3227 Those sensors should not run on 12v. You may have mixed up the wires when you traced them since that is very easy to do. Considering someone cut the sensor wires on your harness, I would order a used harness from eBay to save myself the headache of tracing the wiring. Who knows what else they cut on that harness.
@@artemc329 I got it to start today. It ran high idle and then low idle but when i went to open the throttle it went dead. It cranked up and started and ran normal but after about 15 seconds it just shut down. Started up again and ran normal but shut right back down. What would be a good idea to check out now? Oh, the reason for a no start was the 10 amp fuse was bad.
I got a new problem now. I went thorough everything i could think of and i got it started and it ran for a fw seconds but when i went to acclerate it went dead but also it would go dead just idling. No bad sprark plus, all of them firing good, now it runs and i can drive off with it but sitting still i can rev it up and when i do it is smoothe and the about half pedal i get a diesiling effect. Just disels but will not go dead. What could that be casuing it?
How do I know if it's a or b
If you scan the car for codes, the OBD2 scanner will give you a number. P0335 is the crank sensor near firewall, p0336 is the one behind the crank pulley (AKA harmonic balancer)
@@artemc329 Why cannot i get any codes at all? I plugged it in and it said there was no codes. I cannot get it to start and it seems to me all the wires from the coil pack going back to the ecm are in continuity. I get only .05 volts on the main wire for voltage at the coil. I can only do a ohm check on the side block sensor whis is a little over spes by a few ohms with the two wire plug sensor. The other one i have not checked yet and wondered what i could expect to read on that one also and i have not checked yet to see if they have continuity to the ECM. I am going in circles it seems.
@@thorthunder3227 There are 2 likely reasons why you are not getting a code:
1. The scanner you are using may not be advanced enough to read the code. I have had this issue with reading misfire codes on GMs. I can hook up my cheap scanner and it won't read the code, and when I hook up my nice scanner the codes pop up.
2. The wires got cut when the car was turned off and therefore it never ran long enough to trigger a code.
If I were you, I would just buy a used wiring harness from eBay and install it. You will save time and a headache of wire tracing this way.
Is there a relearn procedure for the sensor
There is, although not always necessary. You have to use a scan tool and navigate to the relearn procedure which makes you rev the engine a few times.
I can’t undo the plug ☹️
Little white thing on the plug stops it from coming out and I can’t get it off help lol I don’t wanna break it
try using a pick tool to separate the plug while you pull up on the retainer. Mine was not white but that is likely due to years of grease getting on it. If you do break it, there are ways of securing the connection without replacing the wiring.