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If it doesn’t fix the issue, you may have to re calibrate the sensor using an advanced scan tool

@@artemc329Thanks for your guidance on this. The 119 degree heat index weather today curtailed my getting much done with it. But I did notice the crank sensor and its pigtail connection has oil and coolant all over it. Likely, this has been slowly building up to becoming the stalling and intermittent problem connection due to the coolant and oil invasion.

@@artemc329Hi, I got the rear crank sensor replaced today, 6/10. I went from the top of motor mid point, which was very doable with the removed upper motor mount, and pulled the motor forward. By using a facial mirror, I was able to see the pigtail connector and sensor, remove them, and replace pigtail connector and sensor. A lot easier to do being able to see with the mirror. Engine started easier than I remember. Next, I turned Ciera off and on several times, over a few hours time period, it start easily each time. Next up, I need to put more protective dirt and heat shield material covering on, in order to keep new pigtail connector from getting soiled again. Thanks again for your assistance.

@@bgjobass good work - it’s always a good feeling when you solve the problem. You saved yourself around $300-400 by doing this yourself as this is how much shops in my area charge for this job.

@@artemc329 thanks, always a good feeling to do it yourself and save. Especially when it makes your old, favorite car, that was your dad’s last ever, run well once more.

Paint river in the UP. Horse race rapids section

this is the camshaft position sensor.

that could be a symptom since crank sensors usually go out with the help of heat. I actually got stranded on the highway once when a crank sensor went out - fortunately I had cooler full of ice and placed an ice cube on the sensor which allowed me to get where I was going. Try checking for codes to get the best idea of what you need to avoid throwing the parts cannon at it.

I would highly advise against it. You will take on water very quickly and swamp which will give you little to no control of your boat. With that much weight in the hull the water will push you into rocks that can damage your boat. A skirt is highly advised if you are skilled enough to balance a canoe in class 3-4 waters. Before running it, take a guided trip to see how they set up and which line they take. This will give you an idea of how to navigate that section. Volkswagen rock is said to have a sieve and you must not get pinned there.

It was a private boat and yes my guiding was not great back then and has improved significantly since. But you can’t progress unless you get out there and practice and this run definitely taught me a lot. Everyone had fun and knew exactly what to do if and when they fell out so everything went well.

You ever figure it out? I’ve gotten the bolt off the sensor but damn am I struggling to get it off

Best way to start with this issue is to pull the codes. Most cheap scanners will work. Then you should bring the codes to autozone and have them search the database. It is free and they own the repair databases that all auto shops use to find the correct fix.

I am sure there is something out there. If I was replacing the cam, I would pull the engine out and reseal everything and replace all wearable parts while it is out of the car. It’s fairly easy to pull the engine and get to the cam in this engine without specialty tools

@@artemc329 oops I meant to say the cam position sensor but your videos on the other sensors are the best I've seen thnk you

there is a wire that runs from the ignition control module to the crank sensor B. The coil packs sit right on top of the ignition module. The wire should come from the driver side of the module

Sorry for late reply, I am sure there is a specific torque spec somewhere, but it is really hard to achieve with the pulley moving around. My method of impacting it on is probably not most appropriate, but has been working fine for over a year now without noticiable issues or vibrations

try using a pick tool to separate the plug while you pull up on the retainer. Mine was not white but that is likely due to years of grease getting on it. If you do break it, there are ways of securing the connection without replacing the wiring.

There is, although not always necessary. You have to use a scan tool and navigate to the relearn procedure which makes you rev the engine a few times.

The puller bolts are approximately 4 inches long. You can go to a hardware store and get an assortment of M10x1.5 bolts in various lengths to make sure you get the job done without running to the store several times. Also you could use nuts or washers and stack them between the bolt head and the puller if you want to shorten the length without getting new bolts.

The sensor near the firewall connects to the module that sits right under the coil packs on the driver side of the module. The other sensor behind the crank pulley connects to the pigtail near the AC compressor which is part of the engine wiring harness. I am not certain where the wires lead after that since they are bundled with the rest of the wiring harness.

@@artemc329 I found them and someone cut the three wires off in the haness. I will have to try to trace them out and find out if they have continuity to the ecm. On the coil pack end there is the female that has a male end that plugs into the coil but whan i traced them down the wire went to the 10 amp fuse and connected over to the yellow hot wire of the switch and i assme that 12 volts should be read there but i get only .05 at the male end of the plug that goes into the coil female on the coil pack. Should i have 12 volts there and if not what could be the problem, swich connectors or wires?

@@thorthunder3227 Sensors should never have 12v running through them as far as I understand. The 0.5v you are getting should be correct. Sounds like someone really messed up the wiring harness. If I were you, I would buy a used harness from eBay to save myself the headache of tracing wires and checking voltage. I think it will save you a lot of time going this route.

It should be a female connector with 2 wires that merge into the engine wiring harness that is routed at the bottom of the engine.

@@artemc329 I got the two wire connector but it plugs into the coil pack from the side of the block sensor. No other connectors on it but i did find a two wire connector that plugged into the coil pack, a black wire ground and one pink wire. I traced the pink wire back to the fuse block under hood and found that a 10 amp fuse was fed off the big yellow wire coming from the ignition. But, i do not get 12 volts at that wire but around .05 only. I do not know what this means but i think it should be 12 volts.

@@thorthunder3227 Those sensors should not run on 12v. You may have mixed up the wires when you traced them since that is very easy to do. Considering someone cut the sensor wires on your harness, I would order a used harness from eBay to save myself the headache of tracing the wiring. Who knows what else they cut on that harness.

@@artemc329 I got it to start today. It ran high idle and then low idle but when i went to open the throttle it went dead. It cranked up and started and ran normal but after about 15 seconds it just shut down. Started up again and ran normal but shut right back down. What would be a good idea to check out now? Oh, the reason for a no start was the 10 amp fuse was bad.

I got a new problem now. I went thorough everything i could think of and i got it started and it ran for a fw seconds but when i went to acclerate it went dead but also it would go dead just idling. No bad sprark plus, all of them firing good, now it runs and i can drive off with it but sitting still i can rev it up and when i do it is smoothe and the about half pedal i get a diesiling effect. Just disels but will not go dead. What could that be casuing it?

If you scan the car for codes, the OBD2 scanner will give you a number. P0335 is the crank sensor near firewall, p0336 is the one behind the crank pulley (AKA harmonic balancer)

@@artemc329 Why cannot i get any codes at all? I plugged it in and it said there was no codes. I cannot get it to start and it seems to me all the wires from the coil pack going back to the ecm are in continuity. I get only .05 volts on the main wire for voltage at the coil. I can only do a ohm check on the side block sensor whis is a little over spes by a few ohms with the two wire plug sensor. The other one i have not checked yet and wondered what i could expect to read on that one also and i have not checked yet to see if they have continuity to the ECM. I am going in circles it seems.

@@thorthunder3227 There are 2 likely reasons why you are not getting a code: 1. The scanner you are using may not be advanced enough to read the code. I have had this issue with reading misfire codes on GMs. I can hook up my cheap scanner and it won't read the code, and when I hook up my nice scanner the codes pop up. 2. The wires got cut when the car was turned off and therefore it never ran long enough to trigger a code. If I were you, I would just buy a used wiring harness from eBay and install it. You will save time and a headache of wire tracing this way.

Yes, the 3.4 has both of the sensors you are describing. P0335 is the one by firewall, and p0336 is behind the harmonic balancer

@@artemc329 Thanks I was wondering how they worked together to impart the right timing sequence. I cannot seem to find the one plug off my 2002 grand am but found the block side one and plugged it. I have no idea where the other sensor wire is.

@@thorthunder3227 if you are referring to the sensor behind the crank pulley, the wire is held in place with a bracket and can be very hard to see. It is routed between the engine block and AC compressor. I am not entirely sure why GM put 2 sensors in. You would think it was for redundancy but the car will not run if either of the sensors go bad, so that wouldn't make sense.

@@artemc329 Found out someone cut the three wires off the sensor, the other sensor has two wires going to the could pack area and i assume that is the ICM?

@@thorthunder3227 Yes, the module that sits under the coil pack is the ignition module

We just did it the other day at about 2000 cfs and it was a totally different river. No where near as intense but still super fun!

We just ran the north fork and the guides were telling us their not running trips yet due to the burn scars from the mosquito fire last year really effected the put in point Still in the air

Flow too high for my skill level, haven’t ran it yet. Spoke with a rafting company and they said the same thing - they are waiting till water slows down a bit to run commercial trips.

Just ran the middle fork a few weeks ago. Private boats can’t access the river - the road is still shut down from the Mosquito fire. Had to go with a company. Good flow though

I figured maybe it had something to do with the thermocline being right at the depth where that hole starts. The cold heavy water is stuck down in the hole with all the silt and can't go anywhere. But that still leaves the question of why there is always silt floating without being disturbed. You would imagine that the silt would settle. Definitely one of the more strange things I've seen underwater.

It is possible that the O ring that seals sensor to the block could have become old and leaked. Take a paper towel and run it across where you suspect the leak to start. Work your way from the top of the engine down. If you get fresh oil on it - there is your leak. Be sure to find the source of the oil leak first before throwing parts and money into it. As you know, accurate diagnosis is the most important part of fixing a problem. For advanced diagnosis, you may dye the oil with UV dye and use a UV light to find the source of your leak. You would not need to drain the oil to replace any sensors in this engine, nor the valve cover gasket. Be sure to get an OEM AC delco sensor if you choose to replace it. Vital components such as timing sensors could leave you stranded if defective. OEM is twice the price but you won't need to do the job twice due to defects. I would even go as far as buying an aftermarket sensor, removing the new O ring and applying it to my old factory sensor if I had no choice.

The wire that runs from the crank sensor (near firewall) plugs into the driver side of the ignition control module. This is the part that seats the ignition coils which the spark plug wires attach to.

@@artemc329 Thanks man. One more thing, on the upper intake to the left of the “3” in “3400” there is a vacuum hole going into the upper intake. I don’t know what goes there so I currently have a vacuum cap on it but what is supposed to go there and what does the other end connect to?

@@NSander8 the way you have it is correct - the small hole you are referring to is supposed to be capped from the factory.

An OBD2 scanner will tell you whether it is sensor A or B. You could try a breaker bar but most likely you will just spin the engine over and risk breaking the bolt inside the crankshaft - at which point you will create a lot of work for yourself. You could use a hand impact wrench (which work very well with pulleys) if you really had no way of setting up pneumatic or don't have an electric one. You could also try placing a wrench on the bolt, then hammer the wrench in the direction that will loosen the bolt (this will work like an impact wrench). Either way, impact function is very important because it delivers quick light blows rather than constant torque preventing the engine from turning over and placing less stress on the bolt. As last resort measure, you could apply heat to the crankshaft pulley bolt which will heat up the crankshaft, and after a few minutes of heat spray the bolt with water. This will cause the bolt to contract while the crankshaft expands making it easier to remove. This will cause damage to the front main oil seal and has potential to cause other issues, so only use this method as last resort to prevent bolt from snapping in the crankshaft.

That is correct - the engine would crank but not fire. Best way to confirm this is with a cheap $20 OBD2 scanner from Walmart

@@artemc329 yea I got the code P0336, I think the reluctor wheel is damaged on the crank pulley, it turned on but now it’s rattling hard. I’m installing a new one today.

@@dimasmafiaempire7908 That is the code of a dead crank sensor. Sometimes it will start but run very poorly and stall. Remember there are 2 crank sensors in this engine so be sure you know if its A or B.

Trying to get an obd reader here today

this car does not have an RPM gauge - only fuel, speedometer and temp oddly. Usually RPM will not start showing up until the car has started, and the starter stops spinning (to save power and send as much of it as possible to the starter). However, if you were getting strange RPM readings before the car refused to start - it is likely the crank sensor since this is what measures engine RPM. OBD scanner will be your best diagnostic tool in this case.

I know how to replace it but my problem is where do i find the harness wire? I seem not to have one for the crank.

I got rid of this car because of how frustrating it was to fix something simple. Too many problems with it costing thousands of dollars each time I drive it. But the reason my hazard switch broke was because I had spilled coke on it lol. The sugar caused it to get stuck.

It can get harsh if you don't look ahead at the terrain and underestimate some of the whoops. This wasn't too bad though.

They are rubicon express leafs with bilstein reservoir shocks. Leafs are not as stiff as people think unless they are brand new. To some degree you want stiffness to prevent bottom outs. The trick here is low tire pressure as this acts as its own suspension. I run 8 PSI, sometimes less without bead locks and rarely throw a bead.

Artem C3 Awesome. Thanks for the tip brother!