Great video man! Could you do a video on core routines for climbers. I know there is a lot of info out there but I am always at a loss to know what is getting hit sufficiently by just climbing and which areas could use some supplemental resistance training.
5 years later, I got a question concerning the complex training where you perform strength and power back to back. Since you do strength first, would you do reps until exhaustion and then immediately move on to power with "no break" or would you recommend doing 90% on strength or something like that?
I wouldn't say reps until exhaustions, because that usually isn't for max strength. I would say do an exercise that can only be done for a few reps, and do all of those reps. The purpose of complex training is to force your body to operate on a submaximal exercise after performing a relatively maximal exercise so the goal is to be fatigued.
It depends on the age. If the child is quite young I would avoid the heavy weighted pull ups. However, if the child is not super young both exercises are fine since they do not stress the growth plates in fingers which are the major concern for growing youths.
how do i do a pullup :( been climbing for 6 months and i can do v3 but the ones requiring strength i struggle with, been relying on a lot of footwork and technique but feeling the limitations of my strength
Get into a regular program. And focus on doing many things right. Since your baseline strength isn't very high you won't need to do too intense of a workout. Additionally, focus on refining things that would assist your strength like maintaining a good diet and sleeping well.
Eric, first thx for all the videos and amazing book t4c! I injured my knee (minos injury) and want to keep on training for power and power endurance. How can I replace bouldering? What campus/fingerboard/pull up bar should I do?
Hi Eric, Thanks! I have a doubt, at the beginning or between each repetition, is it better to leave the arm fully stretched/straight between each repetition or slightly flexed? Regards!
Hi Eric, for the training complex do you recommend the same rest period in between? Or do you mean do BW pull-up set + Power pull-up set then rest period
thanks for this great video. I was following your advice and trained pull-ups for 6week. I advanced from being able to do 1 pull-up to doing 7. I series of 4. my current cap is 7-5-5-5 and I cannot advance above that cap since almost 2 weeks. training twice weekly. what do you suggest?
Well this is 2 years late but in case anyone could use this info... I’d say you did good sticking to your routine and you reaped the benefits from it. But now you need to mix things up since you stagnated. So maybe you shorten up the rest between sets or you do more sets. Or you do different types of pull ups (emphasize slow, for more time over tension, or fast for power)
Depends on the age. If the child is relatively young I would avoid the really heavy weighted pull ups but of course the power pull ups are fine. However, if the child is not super young both exercises are fine since they do not stress the fingers (growth plates) that are the major concern for growing youths. Hope this helps!
That's what I was going to ask. I can do about 4-5 sets of 8-10, but If I go for 13+ on the first set, I am done for. I could, however, also add a bit of weight to drop those sets of 8-10 down to 5-6. Not sure what to do there, which is why I tried going for archer negatives to increase resistance for now.
He's not saying you should be doing 15 pull-ups as part of the training, but as a benchmark. If you are not able to do 15 unweighted pull-ups in general (which is quite average), then better wait and not proceed to use weights.
Based on scientific evidence, most sources consider 15 reps about 65% of your 1RM. According to Henneman's principle 60-65% is lowest threshold for efficient strength development. That imply that doing sets of 12 to 15 reps still might have significant efect for strength development, especially if sets are taken to the failure (maximal effort method). But at the same time, it is good idea to start with higher weights 85%+ of your 1RM, because most likely your techniq should be stable, and insted of intermuscular coordination and sarcoplasmatic hypertrophy u can start working now on intermuscular + myofibrialar (strength without excesive volume) PS: skipping general preparation phase (anatomical adaptation, hypertrophy) is not advisable, because your muscles, tendons, ligaments have to adapt before starting with heavier loads and... long set 40-60s (12-15 reps) are optimal intesity for it, lot of metabolic and mechanical stress...
@@vladimir193 as a beginner you should be spending a year on endurance reps 15 or more, this is the recommendations that a trained PT in the Uk should advise.
Great video man! Could you do a video on core routines for climbers. I know there is a lot of info out there but I am always at a loss to know what is getting hit sufficiently by just climbing and which areas could use some supplemental resistance training.
That´s useful. Thanks, Eric!
Glad it was helpful!
these tips are so useful.. thx :)) looking forward to next videos :)
Enjoy your videos. Hope to see more in the future. Also, enjoy your podcast too. Great content
Do you recommend these exercises before or after a climbing session? Thanks!
I aspire to this.💪
You can!
5 years later, I got a question concerning the complex training where you perform strength and power back to back. Since you do strength first, would you do reps until exhaustion and then immediately move on to power with "no break" or would you recommend doing 90% on strength or something like that?
I wouldn't say reps until exhaustions, because that usually isn't for max strength. I would say do an exercise that can only be done for a few reps, and do all of those reps. The purpose of complex training is to force your body to operate on a submaximal exercise after performing a relatively maximal exercise so the goal is to be fatigued.
@@training4climbing dude, thanks for the reply.
I just put a sing round my neck with weight on it. Works fine no faff and short workouts while kettles on.
It depends on the age. If the child is quite young I would avoid the heavy weighted pull ups. However, if the child is not super young both exercises are fine since they do not stress the growth plates in fingers which are the major concern for growing youths.
how do i do a pullup :( been climbing for 6 months and i can do v3 but the ones requiring strength i struggle with, been relying on a lot of footwork and technique but feeling the limitations of my strength
Get into a regular program. And focus on doing many things right. Since your baseline strength isn't very high you won't need to do too intense of a workout. Additionally, focus on refining things that would assist your strength like maintaining a good diet and sleeping well.
great channel (+1 subscriber), what do you think of hand gripper, could they be interesting in climbing training?
Will weighted pull-ups cause me to put on body weight?
In my experience when I first start doing weighted pull ups I did gain muscle
Eric, first thx for all the videos and amazing book t4c!
I injured my knee (minos injury) and want to keep on training for power and power endurance. How can I replace bouldering? What campus/fingerboard/pull up bar should I do?
Do pull-up intervals...and campus ladder intervals. one short set per minute for 10 minutes is a heck of a PE workout. Get well!
Is there any reason not to use a weighted backpack for the pullups instead of the 3 ways you suggested adding the weight?
Hi Eric,
Thanks! I have a doubt, at the beginning or between each repetition, is it better to leave the arm fully stretched/straight between each repetition or slightly flexed?
Regards!
It is better to keep up tension, (active hang) not relaxed (passive hang). Arms can be straight but stay in active hang, (google it if need be)
Hi Eric, for the training complex do you recommend the same rest period in between? Or do you mean do BW pull-up set + Power pull-up set then rest period
thanks for this great video. I was following your advice and trained pull-ups for 6week. I advanced from being able to do 1 pull-up to doing 7. I series of 4. my current cap is 7-5-5-5 and I cannot advance above that cap since almost 2 weeks. training twice weekly. what do you suggest?
Well this is 2 years late but in case anyone could use this info... I’d say you did good sticking to your routine and you reaped the benefits from it. But now you need to mix things up since you stagnated. So maybe you shorten up the rest between sets or you do more sets. Or you do different types of pull ups (emphasize slow, for more time over tension, or fast for power)
are these exercises good for youths?
Depends on the age. If the child is relatively young I would avoid the really heavy weighted pull ups but of course the power pull ups are fine. However, if the child is not super young both exercises are fine since they do not stress the fingers (growth plates) that are the major concern for growing youths. Hope this helps!
Nice
Thanks
When do I do this? On rest days? Or climbing days?
Climbing days! Days off (rest days) are a critical part of the equation.
I don't do climbing but I want to learn how to climb good bc I want to be Aloy in horizon zero dawn lol
Haha!
how many times per week can I do this?
Says 3 times a week in the video
I can't even do a pull up.... I am screwed without a foot hold
You'll get there eventually... keep it up!
You don't need to do 15 unweighted pullups before you start weighted. That makes no sense. 15 is already endurance.
That's what I was going to ask. I can do about 4-5 sets of 8-10, but If I go for 13+ on the first set, I am done for. I could, however, also add a bit of weight to drop those sets of 8-10 down to 5-6. Not sure what to do there, which is why I tried going for archer negatives to increase resistance for now.
He's not saying you should be doing 15 pull-ups as part of the training, but as a benchmark. If you are not able to do 15 unweighted pull-ups in general (which is quite average), then better wait and not proceed to use weights.
Based on scientific evidence, most sources consider 15 reps about 65% of your 1RM. According to Henneman's principle 60-65% is lowest threshold for efficient strength development. That imply that doing sets of 12 to 15 reps still might have significant efect for strength development, especially if sets are taken to the failure (maximal effort method). But at the same time, it is good idea to start with higher weights 85%+ of your 1RM, because most likely your techniq should be stable, and insted of intermuscular coordination and sarcoplasmatic hypertrophy u can start working now on intermuscular + myofibrialar (strength without excesive volume)
PS: skipping general preparation phase (anatomical adaptation, hypertrophy) is not advisable, because your muscles, tendons, ligaments have to adapt before starting with heavier loads and... long set 40-60s (12-15 reps) are optimal intesity for it, lot of metabolic and mechanical stress...
@@vladimir193 as a beginner you should be spending a year on endurance reps 15 or more, this is the recommendations that a trained PT in the Uk should advise.
i cannt even do one pull up
Start doing negatives (jump and resist your way down) and eventually you can do the whole movement up and down
@@hdjghasgaj now I can do 3! :)
Great 👍🏼😀🤪🤩