Not sure that its fear as much as respect. They know he can make them better, they don't want to disappoint someone of that caliber. Brains are in full sponge mode , I'd give a lot to spend a week with Tom to do the same.
Really appreciate that you guys were wise enough to go to an expert for these answers. This way people aren't just getting the typical guessed answers they may get from a climbing buddy, or gym employee. And, they don't have to second guess what you tell them, if you had given them the answers yourselves. Top notch content.
If anyone was looking for an alternate type of hangboarding exercise, Eva Lopez wrote a white paper, which I believe is the only one of it's kind that has any sort of scientific backing, that describes finger strength training using hangboards. Her style focuses on switching up the types of hangboarding exercises that you do each week. It requires two hangboarding sessions a week that are at least 72 hours apart. One style focuses on Maximum added weight when hanging (MAW) and the other focuses on Minimum Edge Depth (MED). When doing the MAW hangs, you try and find a perfect amount of weight that you can effectively hold for the specified amount of time while being able to hold it for an extra few seconds afterwards before failing. For example, do 3 separate MAW hangs on an 18mm edge for 7 seconds with 2 seconds before failure with a 3 minute rest time in between each hang. For MED, you would do the same thing, but without the added weight, but on the smallest edge you can hold for the specified time. The focus is on form. As soon as your form deteriorates, you need to re-adjust either the added weight or the edge you are using to keep proper form. The protocol calls for variation in which hang you are doing based on which week you are currently in. You can find charts and stuff on her website. Just google Eva Lopez. It's sincerely helped me go from v4 to projecting v7 in only a few months. Just make sure to also add in preventative exercises for shoulder and climbers elbow and you'll be set. Listen to your body and don't push it too far. Just wait 15 minutes after doing these exercises and you can regularly climb afterwards.
One of the best episodes to date. Really informative, especially if you're using the Crimpd app from Lattice. "In the next episode with Tom Randall we're going to be looking at weight training and Fexibility for climbing" :D Don't forget spell checker, lads!
Really love this series so far. Thank you guys. I'm at about a V6,V7 right now and my goal is to get a V10 this coming year. Would love any advice any V10 climbers have. Great video🤠🤙
I just got my first V10 3 weeks ago! I'd say the key to improving is not wasting the time you spend at the gym. Push yourself hard, until your muscles are seriously fatigued, which for me is about 2 to 3 hours of climbing/training. Get a grip trainer and use it whenever you are watching TV or driving in the car. Other than that try to climb at least 4 days a week for 2 to 3 hour sessions each. If you add in hangboard which I'm just starting myself then I'm sure you will get a V10 in no time, just make sure to push yourself to the limit... ALWAYS!
Training was a huge factor in reaching V10 for me, but don't forget to get outside when you can and practice climbing on real rock! It's so important to feel comfortable and confident outside; it's a different game than pulling on plastic or wood. Best of luck and crush this season!
I think you gotta train both as a climber, for years I only trained explosiveness now climbing has taught me stability and strength. On your off days hit the gym, do half explosive, half strength, you will see great results.
Hey guys, great video and I totally love it. There's just a question, mostly for Tom, about the last power-exercise on the pull-up bar with assistance: Is there a way to do this exercise without assistance from another person, e.g. by using a weight, or does this not work because it's a static assistance and when having a person it's a more dynamic assistance? Maybe also someone else has an idea :)
You can also do this type of set up with a rope, pulley and weight, BUT you need to be really careful where that weight goes!! Also it's possible with a strong theraband to help :-)
What an awesome series! How would you train explosive power for a route that consists of 10-15 moderate/hard moves in the beginning and has a really explosive move right at the end?
By training endurance. Best way would probably be just climbing that route a lot and building specific endurance for the moves it has so you can get through and still have enough power left.
What you'll want to do is address 2 things: 1) To increase the localised supply of oxygen to the muscles (PCr regenerates in the presence of O2) and 2) increase you basic level of strength so that when you exert power in a fatigued state, that same move "feels" at a lower % of your maximum. The closer you can get a movement to 50% or below.... the more you will feel powerful on it.
Really nice video. One question though: How would you integrate the first hangboard sessions into your bouldering schedule? Imagine e.g. you are so far going bouldering three times a week. If you take into account the necessary resting period, I can't just add a hangboard session on top easily. Would you recommend dropping one bouldering session and do a hangboard session instead? E.g. boulder, rest, boulder, rest, hangboard, rest, rest? And if you want to do additional pull up etc. training, would you recommend doing this on the day of the hangboard training, on a bouldering day or also on a separate day? Thanks in advance.
Hi people, I come with a question: I started to practice bouldering with a friend some months ago (she introduced me into the bouldering world). In the beginning, she was largely better than me and we spent really nice time bouldering together. However, with the time I improved and I even develop my own style; the point is I started to be able to solve problems she was not able to do. I noticed she is not enjoying to bouldering together (at least as in the past months) and the fact she is not enjoying anymore makes me feel bad: I do not know what to do, I like climbing but it is not the same alone: any wise advice from the experienced climbers?
I've been climbing for about a year and started doing max hangs last month. In 12 sessions I went from Body weight +5 lbs to BW +30. 10 seconds on 3 minutes or more of active resting don't just sit on your phone I did squats or push ups. I would do 5 sets of this with 3 warm up sets taking weight off with my feet. My rest and recovery was eating well, staying hydrated and sleeping. I did my workouts 3 days a week or roughly every other day if I was climbing that day I would do the work out in the morning then climb 6-8 hours later. Day 1 - Hangboard and maybe climb 6-8 hrs later Day 2 - Rest: don't climb or hangboard but feel free to exercise Day 3 - Hangboard Day 4 - Rest: don't climb or hangboard but feel free to exercise Repeat
The part at 6:05 is what made me hurt my ring finger. But I don't think I have a very disproportionate ring finger, so does this grip just load it an extra amount. I also was not hang boarding when I injured it just normal climbing, but what can I do to help prevent this injury.
guyz can i ask u, does it matter if i have in half crimp positios my first finger joint bended/curved on the other side or i should have my fingers bended in normal way, if u understand me. i would be grateful for your response
Didn't they just measure upper body explosive power in the lattice test? How can he infer that Joe has to work on his ĺeg power? Did they even have a look at legs during the testing?
Hi Joe, I would really appreciate your feedback on the Manuva board we have just launched on Kickstarter. www.kickstarter.com/projects/manuvaboard/the-manuva-board Thanks!
He's avoiding many questions by deferring the answer to the viewer judgement. This is kind of hypocrite since people asking those questions have a lot less knowledge then this guy. "Climb on enough different holds before hangboarding", I don't see how this tip is useful in any way.
The tip is don't hangboard until you have a good understanding how your own hands work. That's pretty clear IMO. Beginner climbers shouldn't be hangboarding unless they like to dance with injury
i do really like how he answers the questions. he just doesn´t give u a recipe. and he cannot do this, because every human is different. maybe some can begin earlier than others because the already got a good feeling of working with their hands due to another sporty activity in life. or some do love climbs with little crimps and are quite experienced with extreme holds, even though they are just beginners. some maybe prefer climbs with really good and easy holds, but including more upper body strength. so they should begin later. in fact his answer is the only answer which give u a relative good idea of when to begin AND is correct for all types of people.
i really don't like what u are saying there. because we already got enough fools on the internet, who do think that they can just answer every possible question in a few seconds and are still getting every important point.
So you want him to say at midday on day 178? Any sensible person can follow this advice, even a beginner knows if a hold feels unfamiliar or is at their max, and if so, wait a bit longer.
He's not avoiding it, he's just not going with the general "wait till you have been climbing 12 months" rule that so many say, which is nice to hear, as everyone is different, the way he explains it was fine in my opinion.
Holy crap I learned a whole lot in this video! I guess I have been doing strength training for a while since I have been doing slow pullups and ring workouts. Now that I realize I have been letting my power down a little I'll add a new portion to my training routine. Thanks for the super informative video :D
I got explosive power from just working out normally then transitioning into muscle ups. Once I started climbing about a year ago I was able to destroy dynos on routes I had no business trying
Joe looks like he doesnt want to disappoint his dad 😂
InstaBlaster...
Finally a tutorial on how to behave when you feel uncomfortable: Stare into the abyss, nod 3 times, smile, nod again.
Thanks Joe!
You’re welcome👌🏻
Tom is such a good coach! The way he explains everything and the tone he speaks in are just perfect to lern.
the boys are scared of tom
sign of a good coach hahaaha
Not sure that its fear as much as respect. They know he can make them better, they don't want to disappoint someone of that caliber. Brains are in full sponge mode , I'd give a lot to spend a week with Tom to do the same.
Great video and respect for basically saying "We dont have the answer, but..."
Joe is humble he’s giving Tom a lot of respect. That’s cool and I think understood between the two.
That stare down in the beginning was intense haha
you dont want to look like a beta male and break eye contact
So glad to see you put out this video.
I bought a hangboard for Christmas and was starting to worry about not knowing how to use it lol.
Really appreciate that you guys were wise enough to go to an expert for these answers. This way people aren't just getting the typical guessed answers they may get from a climbing buddy, or gym employee. And, they don't have to second guess what you tell them, if you had given them the answers yourselves. Top notch content.
tom in sweater, joe in coat. tom in sweater, joe in t shirt. tom in sweater, joe in sweater. tom in coat, joe in sweater. tom in coat, joe in t shirt.
Top comment or bust.
I feel like Joe isn't listening hes just thinking about how cold he is the entire episode haha
If anyone was looking for an alternate type of hangboarding exercise, Eva Lopez wrote a white paper, which I believe is the only one of it's kind that has any sort of scientific backing, that describes finger strength training using hangboards. Her style focuses on switching up the types of hangboarding exercises that you do each week. It requires two hangboarding sessions a week that are at least 72 hours apart. One style focuses on Maximum added weight when hanging (MAW) and the other focuses on Minimum Edge Depth (MED). When doing the MAW hangs, you try and find a perfect amount of weight that you can effectively hold for the specified amount of time while being able to hold it for an extra few seconds afterwards before failing. For example, do 3 separate MAW hangs on an 18mm edge for 7 seconds with 2 seconds before failure with a 3 minute rest time in between each hang. For MED, you would do the same thing, but without the added weight, but on the smallest edge you can hold for the specified time. The focus is on form. As soon as your form deteriorates, you need to re-adjust either the added weight or the edge you are using to keep proper form. The protocol calls for variation in which hang you are doing based on which week you are currently in. You can find charts and stuff on her website. Just google Eva Lopez. It's sincerely helped me go from v4 to projecting v7 in only a few months. Just make sure to also add in preventative exercises for shoulder and climbers elbow and you'll be set. Listen to your body and don't push it too far. Just wait 15 minutes after doing these exercises and you can regularly climb afterwards.
Love tom 😁 such a cool dude
One of the best episodes to date. Really informative, especially if you're using the Crimpd app from Lattice.
"In the next episode with Tom Randall we're going to be looking at weight training and Fexibility for climbing" :D Don't forget spell checker, lads!
Joe looks like he's in primary school asking questions to some one that they dont know but where told they where important
I was introduced to Tom and the Bobats through this video over a year ago :)
Thanks for pointing out the difference between power and strength. Applicable to any exercise, nice!
Really love this series so far. Thank you guys. I'm at about a V6,V7 right now and my goal is to get a V10 this coming year. Would love any advice any V10 climbers have. Great video🤠🤙
Keep training hard. Don't get injured.
I just got my first V10 3 weeks ago! I'd say the key to improving is not wasting the time you spend at the gym. Push yourself hard, until your muscles are seriously fatigued, which for me is about 2 to 3 hours of climbing/training. Get a grip trainer and use it whenever you are watching TV or driving in the car. Other than that try to climb at least 4 days a week for 2 to 3 hour sessions each.
If you add in hangboard which I'm just starting myself then I'm sure you will get a V10 in no time, just make sure to push yourself to the limit... ALWAYS!
@@kickmonlee3390 awesome! Thank you. Congrats on your V10 that's really cool🤠🤙
gym v10 or rock 10?
Focus on weaknesses and keep strengths strong.
Training was a huge factor in reaching V10 for me, but don't forget to get outside when you can and practice climbing on real rock! It's so important to feel comfortable and confident outside; it's a different game than pulling on plastic or wood. Best of luck and crush this season!
I think you gotta train both as a climber, for years I only trained explosiveness now climbing has taught me stability and strength. On your off days hit the gym, do half explosive, half strength, you will see great results.
Oh I know the feeling. Being starstruck you can just barely function anymore. Nice to see how important this is for Joe.
i don't think he's star struck, i think it's bc Tom talks a lot in detail & Joe just wants to climb
This video is amazing, so helpful, I'm definitely going to try training power and strength in this way!
yes!!!!thanks
Beat the clock and respect recovery. Just this is a good training.
this was fantastic. thank you
This is great!
Explosive up, controlled down. Perfect formula :p
Great tips! Looking forward that flexibility for climbing! super underrated topic!
Thank you ,very informative, means I need to work harder at everything. Great
Tom's pretty articulate.
Excellent video lads
great series!!
Hmm, very helpful
Hey guys, great video and I totally love it. There's just a question, mostly for Tom, about the last power-exercise on the pull-up bar with assistance: Is there a way to do this exercise without assistance from another person, e.g. by using a weight, or does this not work because it's a static assistance and when having a person it's a more dynamic assistance?
Maybe also someone else has an idea :)
You can also do this type of set up with a rope, pulley and weight, BUT you need to be really careful where that weight goes!! Also it's possible with a strong theraband to help :-)
What an awesome series! How would you train explosive power for a route that consists of 10-15 moderate/hard moves in the beginning and has a really explosive move right at the end?
By training endurance. Best way would probably be just climbing that route a lot and building specific endurance for the moves it has so you can get through and still have enough power left.
What you'll want to do is address 2 things: 1) To increase the localised supply of oxygen to the muscles (PCr regenerates in the presence of O2) and 2) increase you basic level of strength so that when you exert power in a fatigued state, that same move "feels" at a lower % of your maximum. The closer you can get a movement to 50% or below.... the more you will feel powerful on it.
Ye
Really nice video. One question though: How would you integrate the first hangboard sessions into your bouldering schedule? Imagine e.g. you are so far going bouldering three times a week. If you take into account the necessary resting period, I can't just add a hangboard session on top easily. Would you recommend dropping one bouldering session and do a hangboard session instead? E.g. boulder, rest, boulder, rest, hangboard, rest, rest? And if you want to do additional pull up etc. training, would you recommend doing this on the day of the hangboard training, on a bouldering day or also on a separate day? Thanks in advance.
Was just wondering this. Have you found an answer?
Fantastic video. :)
I wish they’d directed him to look at the camera. Poor joe. Too much eye contact. 😆 Good into tho
You should use Strange Ways by Madvillain for background music if you haven’t already
Super heplful!
Question: on hang board, should I always open or close the scapula? Thank you.
Hi people, I come with a question: I started to practice bouldering with a friend some months ago (she introduced me into the bouldering world). In the beginning, she was largely better than me and we spent really nice time bouldering together. However, with the time I improved and I even develop my own style; the point is I started to be able to solve problems she was not able to do. I noticed she is not enjoying to bouldering together (at least as in the past months) and the fact she is not enjoying anymore makes me feel bad: I do not know what to do, I like climbing but it is not the same alone: any wise advice from the experienced climbers?
When Tom says "Lots of recovery and rest" at 6:58 what does that mean in actual numbers?
Working maximal strength, we have ~12secs of burn which requires
I've been climbing for about a year and started doing max hangs last month. In 12 sessions I went from Body weight +5 lbs to BW +30. 10 seconds on 3 minutes or more of active resting don't just sit on your phone I did squats or push ups. I would do 5 sets of this with 3 warm up sets taking weight off with my feet. My rest and recovery was eating well, staying hydrated and sleeping. I did my workouts 3 days a week or roughly every other day if I was climbing that day I would do the work out in the morning then climb 6-8 hours later.
Day 1 - Hangboard and maybe climb 6-8 hrs later
Day 2 - Rest: don't climb or hangboard but feel free to exercise
Day 3 - Hangboard
Day 4 - Rest: don't climb or hangboard but feel free to exercise
Repeat
@@hydroidprops9900 Great post. Thanks for sharing!
I'm also nodding my head somehow
The part at 6:05 is what made me hurt my ring finger. But I don't think I have a very disproportionate ring finger, so does this grip just load it an extra amount. I also was not hang boarding when I injured it just normal climbing, but what can I do to help prevent this injury.
Same. I thought it was the safest grip and was adding weight too quick.
Same here. Did a 3 finger drag hang board session, then went and climbed and tried too hard and pulled my ring finger.
One of the more articulate climbers. On the other hand interviews with Sharma always make me cringe. "you just have to feel it you know"
gotta get that fexibility
What i've learnt from this video - my pinky is very short
guyz can i ask u, does it matter if i have in half crimp positios my first finger joint bended/curved on the other side or i should have my fingers bended in normal way, if u understand me. i would be grateful for your response
Didn't they just measure upper body explosive power in the lattice test? How can he infer that Joe has to work on his ĺeg power? Did they even have a look at legs during the testing?
Looking at Joes legs we all know he needs to work on his leg power😅
Fexibility 👀
Hi Joe, I would really appreciate your feedback on the Manuva board we have just launched on Kickstarter. www.kickstarter.com/projects/manuvaboard/the-manuva-board
Thanks!
No views. 5 likes?!? Whatttt 😂
He's avoiding many questions by deferring the answer to the viewer judgement. This is kind of hypocrite since people asking those questions have a lot less knowledge then this guy. "Climb on enough different holds before hangboarding", I don't see how this tip is useful in any way.
The tip is don't hangboard until you have a good understanding how your own hands work. That's pretty clear IMO. Beginner climbers shouldn't be hangboarding unless they like to dance with injury
i do really like how he answers the questions. he just doesn´t give u a recipe. and he cannot do this, because every human is different. maybe some can begin earlier than others because the already got a good feeling of working with their hands due to another sporty activity in life. or some do love climbs with little crimps and are quite experienced with extreme holds, even though they are just beginners. some maybe prefer climbs with really good and easy holds, but including more upper body strength. so they should begin later. in fact his answer is the only answer which give u a relative good idea of when to begin AND is correct for all types of people.
i really don't like what u are saying there. because we already got enough fools on the internet, who do think that they can just answer every possible question in a few seconds and are still getting every important point.
So you want him to say at midday on day 178? Any sensible person can follow this advice, even a beginner knows if a hold feels unfamiliar or is at their max, and if so, wait a bit longer.
He's not avoiding it, he's just not going with the general "wait till you have been climbing 12 months" rule that so many say, which is nice to hear, as everyone is different, the way he explains it was fine in my opinion.
I wish my pull up bar wasn’t in the joists of the basement. If i do a fast springy pull up my head will go through the floorboards lol
Holy crap I learned a whole lot in this video! I guess I have been doing strength training for a while since I have been doing slow pullups and ring workouts. Now that I realize I have been letting my power down a little I'll add a new portion to my training routine.
Thanks for the super informative video :D
Woah this was super useful, especially during quarantine!!
What's that hangboard in the back with the USB cable?? 🤔🤔
Mr. Randall seems to be a very pattient and respectfull trainer. That's the way to train someone. Explaining and easy going 💪
Thank You !!
Really excited for the next vid with Tom!
Banging, great training tips to take into next year, thanks!
Can't wait to watch a 21 minute long video of maximum 5 minutes of information...
Nice
I got explosive power from just working out normally then transitioning into muscle ups. Once I started climbing about a year ago I was able to destroy dynos on routes I had no business trying
This was awesome! More please!!
Loving this series so far, top work!
Really good video
this is killer, totally gonna use this series