How to Increase Your Contact Strength (THREE METHODS) | Contact Strength Pt. 3
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro skit - Basically a recap of the last video
01:53 Key context for this video
02:36 Method 1
04:16 Method 2
06:29 Method 3
07:13 Campus board routine with Dan Beall
12:06 When to perform this kind of training
12:33 Closing remarks and bloopers
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 99
You should know by now that contact strength refers to the rate of force development in our fingers. You should also know that contact strength in the real world, aka functional contact strength, is far more nuanced than this, as it’s a combination of RFD, mentality, and technique. This presents us with a dilemma: do we try to train pure RFD or do we take a holistic approach and try to improve on all those aspects?
The answer to that needs to be determined on an individual basis, because the “best” way to train contact strength will largely depend on your goals as a climber and your current training routine.
There are many variables that need to be considered when making this decision, making it impossible to give one ideal routine for every climber (contrary to what the internet seems to want!). Instead, we’re going to cover a few of the primary methods of contact strength training as well as a full sample routine by pro climber/coach/ultra nice guy Dan Beall.
Just keep in mind that there are tons of variations of contact strength training, and the exact methods we show in this video may or may not be right for you.
ON THE HANGBOARD
For training pure finger RFD, the hangboard can be a great tool due to having the fewest uncontrolled variables. Things like hold size and body position remain constant while aspects of commitment and footwork are essentially removed from the equation, which is great for allowing you to focus on the task at hand.
The other key benefit of this method, especially for us nerds, is that this is the way RFD research is performed, meaning it has scientific data to back it up. Also, because it relies on objective measurements, it’s a cinch to track your training progress.
RFD training on the hangboard is typically referred to as “impact holds” or “high velocity holds.” Rather than slowly sinking into the hold, you grab the hold with one or both hands and try to generate as much force as quickly as you can. This impact will force your nervous system to respond faster to the stimulus to maintain proper position of your fingers and joints, thus increasing your RFD!
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
First hangboard image: Frictitious Climbing
Second hangboard image: Fleebley, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
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Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
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Extra special shoutout to Dan Beall for lending us some of his limitless training knowledge (find his coaching info in the description!). ALSO if you want that sweet "I Believe I Can Pssaaa" ringtone, check out Dylan Taylor on Instagram (@climberisms). His dubbed climbing videos WILL make you laugh.
Great to see all three of you again! Have a great 2022 Dan, Emile, and Jason!
is the first method dangerous for underaged people who havent fully developed?
Lol, your guys' freaking intros. I hope for Episode 100 you guys do a replay of every single intro skit. Love all the info in the vids. Keep em coming!
I laughed so hard at the intro xD And thanks for all the superb information you give!
Million thumbs up. Finally a definitive training I can follow
Fun fact: Adam Ondra says in a video he was unable to do a 1-4-7 till quite late in his career (when he won botn bouldering and lead chsmpionship in one year he couldnt do it for sure)
Can we get a montage video of all your opening skits? Love this one.
Haha I like that idea!
That opening 🙌🏻😂
Thanks Dan, let's never be a dead fish anyone near a climb :). Great video -- especially the slap!
Such a well made video. Intro got me laughing so hard :D. Keep up the good work
Glad you enjoyed!
Yay!!! More :D
This is great!!!!!
Thanks for the ideas. I’ve only got 5 rungs but I think I can still do some solid work.
With a shorter set up, you may find a combination of snatches (jumping off the ground to a rung or rungs) and offset pull ups to be your best bet. Could of course do double dynos to your hearts content as well
The intro is brilliant. I can't even count how many newbie climbers I hear talking about how they want to train their fingers. I've been climbing for years and I still don't train my fingers because there are so many other things to work on. I find that literally just hanging on a pull-up bar and lifting my feet will do wonders and I don't have to worry about finger injuries.
What the… I just realized this is my gym!! Haha maybe I’ll see you there sometime!
I love the skit, love the information, ready to train send and repeat!
Also how do we get more footage of hooper on the wall?
I keep trying but he always dry-fires off the first move!! 😜
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta he should train contact strength
@@SethPierceClimbing hey that last time I almost didn't dry fire off the first move. Good progress if you ask me.
- Jason
@@HoopersBeta measurable progress is all we're looking for! Keep up the good work!
It's not really clear to me what the difference is between part A and part B of the campus workout. From the video the exercises seem very similar, with the difference being only the distance between rungs. The names of the exercises seem to imply some larger differences, since one is labeled symmetric and the other is labeled offset. But if both (1-3)-6 and (1-4)-6 are offset pulls, what differentiates (1-4-)-7 from being just a harder offset pull? Am I missing something obvious?
Hey! Sorry for the confusion. Part A is called Max Symmetrical Pulls because the distance between all the rungs you're using is symmetrical (1-4-7 is evenly spaced). Part B is called Offset Pulls because they're not evenly spaced. For 1-3-6, your hands start closer together on 1-3 and then pull all the way up to 6. For 1-4-6, your hands start further apart on 1-4 and then pull to 6. The different spacing and offsets change the way you generate force. (For example, starting with your hands further apart at 1-4 is more one-arm biased than starting closer together on 1-3.)
@@HoopersBeta That makes sense! Thank you!
And is each rep just that one move?
Dan’s the man, and strong as an ox
Thanks for the kind words! Hope you’re well!
Perfect intro. But seriously? I've been climbing for 3.23 weeks, i've flashed V2 in three goes, and I've done V3 outside with a few dabs. Is contact strength for me? Yes? Right! Great!
😂😂 just give it another .02 weeks, otherwise contact strength will be KILLING your gainz
@@HoopersBeta NO!! not my GAINZ! And i spent so long doing squats to improve my static lock off strength too!
/uj Good series of videos though my guy.
@@MythAvatar 😅😅
I think the campus routine as shown by Dan is more suitable for expert climbers that are probably already training on the campusboard. 1-4-7 is not where you want to start. If the campusboard is new for you, the chance of injury is something to be fully aware of.
Thus the multiple notes (verbal and visual) that the routine is for someone who already campuses around 1-4-7 :)
The risk of injury on a campus board at all, and trying 1-4-7 in particular is certainly not greater than that of simply bouldering. It involves much more consistent movement on much more ergonomic holds. It is possible to hurt yourself doing just about anything, but this is not high risk.
regarding the "hangboard impact holds" excercise, what would be the next progression to that?
thx
Unrated intro with the climberism ringtone 💀
good video
Thanks!
Had to skip around a little to make sure Dan is in this video before watching 🤣
every sesion that i climb i warm up and after warm up i do 3 attempts at 1-4-8 on each hand 5 minits rest if im tired ill just get less far so be it also last month i was at 1-3-7 and before that i was at 1-5-8
Hahahahahah oh my gosh.
Best. Intro. Ever!!!!
Maybe too late to get a reply
But you said that RFD training on the fingerboard is trackable. How does one track rate of progression in this? I cant think of a way beyond having some sort of clever gizmo that tests RFD indwpendently.
Algogogo
Jason, how to I size your t shirts? Sorry if there’s a better place to contact you
I feel like it's worth noting that, as described in video 1, contact strength is limited by... strength. If you aren't doing max hangs or repeaters to train strength, you probably should train that first. :)
“First” is a vague word ;) but yes, if your strength is extremely low you’d be well advised to work on that
@@HoopersBeta Ah yeah, first is vague in that context. What I meant is, if you're going to train only one, training only strength probably makes more sense then training only contact strength.
The intro tho 😂
Which size of the campus rung do you recomend using?
Unfortunately, as with so many things, the answer is “it depends”. Using larger rungs will make the pulling portion more difficult and likely bias results more towards your larger pulling muscles (more like doing a powerful pull up than fingerboarding). Meanwhile smaller rungs more emphasize finger strengths and as a result tend to necessitate smaller moves.
Broadly speaking, it’s probably best to start out on larger rungs (around 1.25” or 30mm) to learn the movements. Then once you start plateauing, begin to move down rung size.
If you’re including both fingerboard and campus board in your training (not generally advisable for newer climbers) it makes sense to use larger rungs and bigger pulls to compliment the heavy finger work with the fingerboard.
If you’re only campusing, and you’re familiar with the movements, it is probably better to err on the side of smaller rungs.
hilarious lol
My contact strength is pretty good. I’m just watching for the skits and nerdy mumbles
❤️❤️❤️
Why you have a 😷 on hangboard? 😆 You are practically alone hahaha
The gym had opened to the public and it’s California state mandate to wear a mask indoors right now