Good work. I might invest in one for my ML7 and leave the Idian one for the ML10. I am glad you mentioned about the work needed on the Chinese Carbide boring bars. Out of the box the geometry of these tools are all wrong and they are hopeless in cutting metal until the angles and the tool tip height is corrected.
Hi Steve, I am thinking of doing something similar. Is there any reason not to try to tap the steel base plate to take the central upright threaded bar, rather than turn down the tool holder base plate? Thanks for your excellent videos by the way, have learnt loads.
Thanks steve..I have the same piston tool post,a couple of quirks I found the tool holder grub screws faulty,even using a good quality Allen wrench.then the lever for tightening the block to the cross slide broke off at the threads .made a new one,hey Steve ,we do like things ridged!! Kind regards TW Canada s westcoast.
I do so enjoy all of your videos and thank you for posting them.....but one has to wonder just how all of us other home/hobbyist machinists get by without all that banggood stuff you keep showing.
Great Video as usual Steve, very informative and easily followed. I do have a question though, I have a Myford Super 7 and have been looking for videos explaining and using of the Myford different change wheels and tumble reverse gears when cutting different threads. Maybe a series of videos for you to produce?
Good tips on the aligning a square block. When machining down the face of the square block and the T-block does the chatter come from the bit hitting the corners?
do you have 2 lathes? I'm wondering how did you machine the base plate: made it thinner, bored the hole etc, without the base plate (if that makes sense)
Hi Steve. I am intrigued why you did not just drill and tap the base for the mounting bolt. Did you modify and use the original mounting plate for additional rigidity? I’m just about to make my own rigid tool post and am in a quandary whether to do you did or simply drill and tap for the mounting bolt. As always many thanks for such excellent content. 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
What might be the purpose of the "what appear to be" grub screws on the block at 90 degrees to the Myford Tee slots (on both headstock and tailstock sides), please?
Thank you Steve. I've bought the same 250-100. But I have troubles to found a bolt fitting the axle. You say it's a 7/16", but 7/16" = 11,11 mm and the diameter is 13,7 mm (thread diameter). I need to order an imperial bolt but I'm worry about the size. Are you sure it's a 7/16" ??
Hi Steve, great video very informative what size capheads did you use to secure it to the x slide they look like 8mm if so did you tap into the x slide.
Hi Thanks. They are 6mm Allen bolts. The ML7 has T-Slots to secure things like this to the slide using T-Nuts. These can be be put in any position in the slots before tightening the Allen bolts. Regards Steve
i think i got mine for $200.00 i got the tool post and 5 tool holds in Canada in my city with out sending away to China.i thought i was a hell of a deal.
I've bitten the bullet and ordered one from Banggood (never purchased anything from them before). Oddly, the tool post itself seems to ship from inside Europe but the tool-holders appear to come from China. One tool post, three holders, a turning tool and a box of the Blue Nano inserts that Steve keeps enthusing about: $160 US including postage. I'm not sure what that is in Canadian dollars, but it seems like good value compared to UK pricing.
Steve could you please help me out... I have a Myford ML7 that I am currently refurbishing & require some tooling & a tool post. I have seen the video where you machined 3mm off the top of the Myford compound slide to enable full function of a Dixon type Quick Change tool post... My question is, would the compound slide with the Machifit DCM-250-100 tool post & 250-101 tool holders require the same treatment to enable proper function with 12mm tooling? As I have no tooling yet I am trying to weigh up the pros & cons of 10mm vs 12mm tooling. I am wondering if I could simply install the MachifitDCM-250-100 tool post to the ML7 compound slide & use 10mm tooling 'straight out of the box' with no modifications to the compound slide. Actually, would 12mm work in this set up? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Howard, The Machifit 250-100 is too big altogether to go on the compound slide. I made up a separate toolpost base to use this one. They do a Machifit 250-000 which is about the same size as the Dixon quickchange, but I haven't tested that one yet to analyze the fit. Most people just fit and use the Dixon types which is quite adequate. My brother uses this toolpost on his Myford Super 7 and one can easily just use this for all machining. You can then upgrade at a later date if you want to use the lathe without the compound slide, by making a toolpost block. I would advise just getting the Dixon type, although I hope to get and test the Machifit 250-000 in a month or two. There is a possibility that there maybe an alteration needed on the bolt diameter to fit this one though. If you want to get up and running quickly though it is best to get the Dixon type and use the lathe as it is with up to 10mm tooling. Also you may need a running lathe to make any alterations needed for the Machifit types.
@@SteveJordan Excellent! Thanks for the quick reply. I will stick to a dixon tool post & 10mm tooling for now, enabling a fully functional lathe to get me started. I will probably go for this set unless you recommend anything else... www.banggood.com/7pcs-10mm-Shank-Lathe-Turning-Tool-Holder-Boring-Bar-With-Carbide-Inserts-p-1082102.html?rmmds=mywishlist&cur_warehouse=UK This is a similar set to a recent purchase of yours but only in 10mm shank.
Aloris style QCTP's are available in two styles: piston and wedge. Piston versions are vastly inferior to wedge types. The piston version relies on three surfaces to retain holders, i.e. (2) dovetails & (1) piston. In contrast, wedge QCTP's have four surfaces, i.e. (2) dovetails & (2) vertical flats, which provides a significantly larger and more stable contact area. Other than piston style QCTP's being negligibly cheaper than wedge style, there is absolutely no reasonable justification for their use.
I haven't actually found any that are inferior of either type. They all work perfectly with no problems whatsoever. I have had my Dixon QCTP for a long time and am still keeping and using it. It is excellent. Having said that though I have bought many Dixon type tool holders in the past where I have had to do lengthy modifications to get them to work properly. They tend to vary in their ground tolerances, according to where they have been manufactured. Most lock up nicely, but I have had a few that are incorrectly ground that wont lock onto the tool post correctly. They are either too thick or too thin on the clamping surfaces. There seems to be a lot of inconsistency in tolerances. That also applies to the centre height adjuster, like I said in the video. I haven't found that with these Chinese piston type tool posts. They work perfectly every time without any modifications at all. I know when buying tool holders, I won't get a duff one that either has to be sent back or modified. Also the piston tool-post I have here is significantly taller than my Dixon quick-change type so the retaining surfaces on the dovetail are probably equal that of the Dixon. I'm only talking about tool posts here that are being used on the Chinese mini lathe or the Myford lathes, not the industrial machines.
@@SteveJordan I believe that you have a "Dickson" QCTP, and like your Chinese clone Aloris, it uses piston retention. Aloris, the company that originated the format, never made a piston variant. They only made wedge QCTP's because of their superiority over piston designs. I suspect that piston Aloris clones were conceived to circumvent a patent, which is now expired. Piston QCTP's typically use a very simple cam/spring arrangement to move the piston. Wedge QCTP's use a screw mechanism to move a wedge up & down. This provides for more leverage than piston QCTP's and, by its inherent design, is very effective at locking-up when under load. In contrast, piston QCTP's are notorious for working lose under load. Cams have to be at top dead center to effectively lock-up and, because of production tolerances, this is an unrealistic event. So here's the basic issue with your presentation: you represented a Chinese piston Aloris clone QCTP as being "the best" despite it being vastly inferior to the original wedge Aloris design. Your claim is patently false.
E Designs you gotta be a Democrat liberal. There is only one way, your way! Why is it such a problem for you people just to say I like this better! Why does his have to be wrong? Are you gay transvestite too? They also want 5 sexes
@@tomharrell1954 You're wrong on all counts. Steve made numerous false statements in this video and if you had any knowledge on the subject you might not come off as such a dumb-ass.
Hi all, I just asked this question on another of Steve's videos since I am thinking about purchasing one of the below or a Dixon type for the 7x10 harbor freight mini-lathe I'm about to upgrade (new Timken 30206 tapered bearings first as well as make an adapter plate for cross slide to fit the angle plate for milling and indexing head parts drilling, indexing head, carriage width increase & cross slide locks, collet chuck, treadmill motor and controller, new gears/pulley, etc.). This is what I thought might be better (if will fit OK): www.ebay.com/itm/6-12-QUICK-CHANGE-TOOL-POST-6PCS-SET-WEDGE-TYPE/310136108860 Though was wondering about this design also: www.ebay.com/itm/6-12-QUICK-CHANGE-TOOL-POST-6PCS-SET-Piston-TYPE-830A-532-new/161268632346 These are both right down the road from me too. What are your thoughts, i.e. Steve, E Designs et.al.? I'm reborn to machining since haven't done since high school back in 94-96 and had a head injury from poisoning then later armed robbery along with the remote sensing and transmission assault issues like I've been documenting below. dewdefenseprojects.blogspot.com/2019/03/neuroscientist-dr-james-giordano-on.html I figured I mise well start machining electronics and RF test equipment parts too since my Dad passed and left the mini-lathe and other tools. Before he passed he mentioned I need to do like Steve has shown pretty much before I even think about machining steel. My thought is even with aluminum or copper parts... I'm better to improve the tolerances to make tighter specs since the microwave on up frequency range demands tighter specification components.
@@SteveJordan Hello Steve. These Bangood tool posts , the 000 and the 100, appear extremely good value. However as they’re imported , do you know if they incur import charges….vat + post office handling charges ? If they do, then UK sources are virtually the same price ?
Interesting and useful thanks. One word of constructive criticism - please try not to say the word "actually" when it adds nothing to the meaning of the sentence - it drives me mad. Sorry.
Hmmmm.....the argument regarding the piston type versus the wedge type tool post hasn't apparently reached many ears with significant conclusions being drawn. As an engineer, fitter and turner of 65 years actually, I am well aware of the accuracy that a wedge type would have as it pulls the tool holder against the face of the tool post and "wedges" it tightly into the female dovetail of the tool post. The piston type, which is much cheaper to make but sells for almost the same price in various outlets, does not hold the tool holder as firmly as the aforementioned.......the piston pushes the tool holder outwards against the two inside faces of the female dovetail.........this is not half as accurate or firm as the wedge type or more importantly as strong to resist cutting forces that will attempt to push the tool holder down.......but for general purpose applications it does work well enough to a degree if you are not all that critical in the holding and presenting of the tool etc. I like the Dickson type as it is very good at locating and holding the tool holders but not if you want to make more holders for economy etc, but not impossible if you are good with a mill. The wedge type does allow you to simply make extra tool holders very accurately but at such a cheap price that is a lot of work for little gain. I would use 4140 tool steel for the tool holders and to guild the Lilly, if you are a perfectionist, have them case hardened too. I have just ordered a wedge type and one mod I'll be making is a spring loaded ball in the top of the tool post to make sure the handle stays locked when the tool is locked.
Yes I noticed the handle backs off sometimes. The wedge stays securely locked but the handle moves a bit. It can be a bit disconcerting making one think that they haven't locked it. That would be a good improvement having a handle lock device.
@@SteveJordan I think the tool post per se is only case hardened if at all, so a carbide drill could break through the top face case and allow a hole to be drilled for a spring and ball, and a groove cut in the underside of the tightening collar would do the trick. I've just ordered one of these from Amazon so I will be doing that mod when it arrives.
facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
Wow! You made placing the work piece in the Four jaw so very easy. I have dreaded doing that!
Using the tail stock to hold it is a Great idea! Super!
Good work. I might invest in one for my ML7 and leave the Idian one for the ML10. I am glad you mentioned about the work needed on the Chinese Carbide boring bars. Out of the box the geometry of these tools are all wrong and they are hopeless in cutting metal until the angles and the tool tip height is corrected.
Hi Steve, I am thinking of doing something similar. Is there any reason not to try to tap the steel base plate to take the central upright threaded bar, rather than turn down the tool holder base plate? Thanks for your excellent videos by the way, have learnt loads.
Thanks steve..I have the same piston tool post,a couple of quirks I found the tool holder grub screws faulty,even using a good quality Allen wrench.then the lever for tightening the block to the cross slide broke off at the threads .made a new one,hey Steve ,we do like things ridged!! Kind regards TW Canada s westcoast.
Hi I generally change all grub screws anyway. I use stainless steel ones in things like this.
Great result Steve, I’ve always liked the piston type roll post but just never got around to buying one yet, thanks for sharing mate, Cheers Matty
Hi Steve. Thanks for that. I guess I’ll have to splash out and buy the set.
love the spindle RPM, first time I've seen that
I do so enjoy all of your videos and thank you for posting them.....but one has to wonder just how all of us other home/hobbyist machinists get by without all that banggood stuff you keep showing.
Great Video as usual Steve, very informative and easily followed. I do have a question though, I have a Myford Super 7 and have been looking for videos explaining and using of the Myford different change wheels and tumble reverse gears when cutting different threads. Maybe a series of videos for you to produce?
good video steve just ordered one thanks for posting
Very good video Steve. well made.
Hello from Norway , Carl
Hi Carl Thank you. Greetings from the UK and thanks for watching; Regards Steve
Good tips on the aligning a square block. When machining down the face of the square block and the T-block does the chatter come from the bit hitting the corners?
Hi Thanks, Yes it does a bit.
do you have 2 lathes?
I'm wondering how did you machine the base plate: made it thinner, bored the hole etc, without the base plate (if that makes sense)
Hi Steve. I am intrigued why you did not just drill and tap the base for the mounting bolt. Did you modify and use the original mounting plate for additional rigidity? I’m just about to make my own rigid tool post and am in a quandary whether to do you did or simply drill and tap for the mounting bolt.
As always many thanks for such excellent content. 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
Hi Andrew yes you could just drill and tap the mounting plate. I didn't have a tap that size so just modified it to suit. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thank you Steve. Ah, that’s an obvious reason which I hadn’t thought about 😂 Gives me two options. Wish me luck 👍
What might be the purpose of the "what appear to be" grub screws on the block at 90 degrees to the Myford Tee slots (on both headstock and tailstock sides), please?
Good fit there Steve.. 👍
Thank you Steve. I've bought the same 250-100. But I have troubles to found a bolt fitting the axle. You say it's a 7/16", but 7/16" = 11,11 mm and the diameter is 13,7 mm (thread diameter). I need to order an imperial bolt but I'm worry about the size.
Are you sure it's a 7/16" ??
Hey Steve what are dimensions of the mounting block.
Hi Steve, great video very informative what size capheads did you use to secure it to the x slide they look like 8mm if so did you tap into the x slide.
Hi Thanks. They are 6mm Allen bolts. The ML7 has T-Slots to secure things like this to the slide using T-Nuts. These can be be put in any position in the slots before tightening the Allen bolts. Regards Steve
Another excellent video, thanks Steve. Can I ask you do you have a specific supplier for flat steel bar as you used in this video? Thanks. Gio.
Hi thanks... I just search for bright mild steel bar on Ebay. I will see if I can find the seller again later. Regards Steve
Fantastic work
steve just making mine now , did you glue the bolt and turned base plate underneath cheers john
Hi John I used a drop of Loctite 638 just to stop it turning when locking up the nut. Regards Steve
Kindly ask you please, will this toolpost fit the Myford super7
The 250-000 is the best size for the Myford compound slide. This 250-100 is ok if you make the compound block to use it on only. Regards Steve
i think i got mine for $200.00 i got the tool post and 5 tool holds in Canada in my city with out sending away to China.i thought i was a hell of a deal.
I've bitten the bullet and ordered one from Banggood (never purchased anything from them before). Oddly, the tool post itself seems to ship from inside Europe but the tool-holders appear to come from China. One tool post, three holders, a turning tool and a box of the Blue Nano inserts that Steve keeps enthusing about: $160 US including postage. I'm not sure what that is in Canadian dollars, but it seems like good value compared to UK pricing.
Steve could you please help me out... I have a Myford ML7 that I am currently refurbishing & require some tooling & a tool post.
I have seen the video where you machined 3mm off the top of the Myford compound slide to enable full function of a Dixon type Quick Change tool post... My question is, would the compound slide with the Machifit DCM-250-100 tool post & 250-101 tool holders require the same treatment to enable proper function with 12mm tooling?
As I have no tooling yet I am trying to weigh up the pros & cons of 10mm vs 12mm tooling. I am wondering if I could simply install the MachifitDCM-250-100 tool post to the ML7 compound slide & use 10mm tooling 'straight out of the box' with no modifications to the compound slide. Actually, would 12mm work in this set up?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Howard, The Machifit 250-100 is too big altogether to go on the compound slide. I made up a separate toolpost base to use this one. They do a Machifit 250-000 which is about the same size as the Dixon quickchange, but I haven't tested that one yet to analyze the fit.
Most people just fit and use the Dixon types which is quite adequate. My brother uses this toolpost on his Myford Super 7 and one can easily just use this for all machining. You can then upgrade at a later date if you want to use the lathe without the compound slide, by making a toolpost block.
I would advise just getting the Dixon type, although I hope to get and test the Machifit 250-000 in a month or two. There is a possibility that there maybe an alteration needed on the bolt diameter to fit this one though.
If you want to get up and running quickly though it is best to get the Dixon type and use the lathe as it is with up to 10mm tooling. Also you may need a running lathe to make any alterations needed for the Machifit types.
@@SteveJordan Excellent! Thanks for the quick reply. I will stick to a dixon tool post & 10mm tooling for now, enabling a fully functional lathe to get me started.
I will probably go for this set unless you recommend anything else... www.banggood.com/7pcs-10mm-Shank-Lathe-Turning-Tool-Holder-Boring-Bar-With-Carbide-Inserts-p-1082102.html?rmmds=mywishlist&cur_warehouse=UK
This is a similar set to a recent purchase of yours but only in 10mm shank.
At 6:09 did anyone else suddenly think of Sonic the hedgehog? LOL !
I am guessing this does not fit on the mini lathe as your other video promotes 250-000 for that?
That is correct. Regards Steve
👍👍👍👍👍
Watching in Alabama!
3:51 Going to have to change that decal. Auxiliary is spelled incorrectly,😁
Yes I saw that in editing the video but it was too late to change it...:-)
Aloris style QCTP's are available in two styles: piston and wedge. Piston versions are vastly inferior to wedge types. The piston version relies on three surfaces to retain holders, i.e. (2) dovetails & (1) piston. In contrast, wedge QCTP's have four surfaces, i.e. (2) dovetails & (2) vertical flats, which provides a significantly larger and more stable contact area.
Other than piston style QCTP's being negligibly cheaper than wedge style, there is absolutely no reasonable justification for their use.
I haven't actually found any that are inferior of either type. They all work perfectly with no problems whatsoever.
I have had my Dixon QCTP for a long time and am still keeping and using it. It is excellent.
Having said that though I have bought many Dixon type tool holders in the past where I have had to do lengthy modifications to get them to work properly. They tend to vary in their ground tolerances, according to where they have been manufactured. Most lock up nicely, but I have had a few that are incorrectly ground that wont lock onto the tool post correctly. They are either too thick or too thin on the clamping surfaces. There seems to be a lot of inconsistency in tolerances. That also applies to the centre height adjuster, like I said in the video.
I haven't found that with these Chinese piston type tool posts. They work perfectly every time without any modifications at all. I know when buying tool holders, I won't get a duff one that either has to be sent back or modified. Also the piston tool-post I have here is significantly taller than my Dixon quick-change type so the retaining surfaces on the dovetail are probably equal that of the Dixon. I'm only talking about tool posts here that are being used on the Chinese mini lathe or the Myford lathes, not the industrial machines.
@@SteveJordan I believe that you have a "Dickson" QCTP, and like your Chinese clone Aloris, it uses piston retention.
Aloris, the company that originated the format, never made a piston variant. They only made wedge QCTP's because of their superiority over piston designs. I suspect that piston Aloris clones were conceived to circumvent a patent, which is now expired.
Piston QCTP's typically use a very simple cam/spring arrangement to move the piston. Wedge QCTP's use a screw mechanism to move a wedge up & down. This provides for more leverage than piston QCTP's and, by its inherent design, is very effective at locking-up when under load. In contrast, piston QCTP's are notorious for working lose under load. Cams have to be at top dead center to effectively lock-up and, because of production tolerances, this is an unrealistic event.
So here's the basic issue with your presentation: you represented a Chinese piston Aloris clone QCTP as being "the best" despite it being vastly inferior to the original wedge Aloris design. Your claim is patently false.
E Designs you gotta be a Democrat liberal. There is only one way, your way! Why is it such a problem for you people just to say I like this better! Why does his have to be wrong? Are you gay transvestite too? They also want 5 sexes
@@tomharrell1954 You're wrong on all counts. Steve made numerous false statements in this video and if you had any knowledge on the subject you might not come off as such a dumb-ass.
Hi all,
I just asked this question on another of Steve's videos since I am thinking about purchasing one of the below or a Dixon type for the 7x10 harbor freight mini-lathe I'm about to upgrade (new Timken 30206 tapered bearings first as well as make an adapter plate for cross slide to fit the angle plate for milling and indexing head parts drilling, indexing head, carriage width increase & cross slide locks, collet chuck, treadmill motor and controller, new gears/pulley, etc.).
This is what I thought might be better (if will fit OK):
www.ebay.com/itm/6-12-QUICK-CHANGE-TOOL-POST-6PCS-SET-WEDGE-TYPE/310136108860
Though was wondering about this design also:
www.ebay.com/itm/6-12-QUICK-CHANGE-TOOL-POST-6PCS-SET-Piston-TYPE-830A-532-new/161268632346
These are both right down the road from me too.
What are your thoughts, i.e. Steve, E Designs et.al.? I'm reborn to machining since haven't done since high school back in 94-96 and had a head injury from poisoning then later armed robbery along with the remote sensing and transmission assault issues like I've been documenting below.
dewdefenseprojects.blogspot.com/2019/03/neuroscientist-dr-james-giordano-on.html
I figured I mise well start machining electronics and RF test equipment parts too since my Dad passed and left the mini-lathe and other tools. Before he passed he mentioned I need to do like Steve has shown pretty much before I even think about machining steel. My thought is even with aluminum or copper parts... I'm better to improve the tolerances to make tighter specs since the microwave on up frequency range demands tighter specification components.
Far easier to make your own tool holders as well (not that this is really necessary as they are about £11 each on eBay).
SEE LINKS BELOW:-
Machifit DMC-250-100 Piston Type Locking Tool -- bit.ly/2Fe8X4R
Quick Change Turning and Facing Holder -- bit.ly/2HmNqsO
Quick Change Turning Facing Boring CNC Holder -- bit.ly/2Hwh5iw
AC 220V DC 12V 24V Digital Thermostat 30A Thermometer -- bit.ly/2O2JoXe
9pcs 3/8 Inch Shank Boring Bar Set Lathe Tool -- goo.gl/9MbgL5
55% off Mechanical Parts Promotion -- bit.ly/2Uw9PqG
Banggood Health Protection -- bit.ly/33tNTBx
Banggood Health&Care Protection -- bit.ly/3d7QpSy
Hi Steve. Will the piston tool post accept Myford tool holders?
@@Skyrunner13 Hi no the tool posts are totally different.
@@SteveJordan Hello Steve. These Bangood tool posts , the 000 and the 100, appear extremely good value. However as they’re imported , do you know if they incur import charges….vat + post office handling charges ? If they do, then UK sources are virtually the same price ?
Hi I haven't had any import charges so far and I have bought several sets of the tool holders. Regards Steve
Just leave the fan on all the time. Why mess about?
Interesting and useful thanks. One word of constructive criticism - please try not to say the word "actually" when it adds nothing to the meaning of the sentence - it drives me mad. Sorry.
Not particularly constructive, actually. The videos are excellent!
Hmmmm.....the argument regarding the piston type versus the wedge type tool post hasn't apparently reached many ears with significant conclusions being drawn.
As an engineer, fitter and turner of 65 years actually, I am well aware of the accuracy that a wedge type would have as it pulls the tool holder against the face of the tool post and "wedges" it tightly into the female dovetail of the tool post.
The piston type, which is much cheaper to make but sells for almost the same price in various outlets, does not hold the tool holder as firmly as the aforementioned.......the piston pushes the tool holder outwards against the two inside faces of the female dovetail.........this is not half as accurate or firm as the wedge type or more importantly as strong to resist cutting forces that will attempt to push the tool holder down.......but for general purpose applications it does work well enough to a degree if you are not all that critical in the holding and presenting of the tool etc.
I like the Dickson type as it is very good at locating and holding the tool holders but not if you want to make more holders for economy etc, but not impossible if you are good with a mill.
The wedge type does allow you to simply make extra tool holders very accurately but at such a cheap price that is a lot of work for little gain.
I would use 4140 tool steel for the tool holders and to guild the Lilly, if you are a perfectionist, have them case hardened too.
I have just ordered a wedge type and one mod I'll be making is a spring loaded ball in the top of the tool post to make sure the handle stays locked when the tool is locked.
Yes I noticed the handle backs off sometimes. The wedge stays securely locked but the handle moves a bit. It can be a bit disconcerting making one think that they haven't locked it.
That would be a good improvement having a handle lock device.
@@SteveJordan I think the tool post per se is only case hardened if at all, so a carbide drill could break through the top face case and allow a hole to be drilled for a spring and ball, and a groove cut in the underside of the tightening collar would do the trick.
I've just ordered one of these from Amazon so I will be doing that mod when it arrives.