*Excellent lathe **MyBest.Tools** I started turning pens, and this is a very smooth running lathe. I am glad that I went with a variable speed lathe. It is made of top quality materials and will probably out last me. I highly recommend.*
I have this same toolpost on my mini-lathe, and it's one of the best modifications I've made. As you said, it's miles better than the cheap aluminum QCTP's most people seem to use. Better rigidity, better repeatability. Combined with a tool post block (in place of the compound), I've been pretty impressed with the depth of cut I can take.
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe With aluminum cutting inserts, I can take a 0.050" DOC in 6061 and still get a decent finish. 0.100" is possible, but surface finish definitely suffers, and the machine bogs (and sometimes stalls). And yes, it's a similar lathe to yours. That lathe is made by one company (Seig), then rebranded and sold by a lot of different companies. Mine is from Harbor Freight in the US.
I was about to mention the same point. I started with the aluminum version and while it was convenient and quick, it just wasn't very rigid. A friend then uptraded me to the steel version shown in this video. It was well worth the extra cost. Advice to others: go straight to the steel version.
Another way I was taught for setting the tool height on a centre lathe is to put a dead centre in the tailstock and use that to shim / adjust the tool until it is level with the centre point. This works well for all types of tool and saves stock (which saves money)
I was taught the same technique working on big engine lathes, but it's only as accurate as the tailstock height. Unfortunately the tailstock for this lathe is way off centre height, so useless as a reference.
I was taught to pinch a machinist's scale (pocket ruler) between the tool and workpiece, if it's vertical the tool is on center, if the top is tilted towards the workpiece the tool is high, tilted towards the tool and the tool is low. Quick and dirty and pretty accurate, make minute adjustments after you start turning if the tool isn't exactly on center. Of course it only works well if the workpiece is fairly round to begin with and fairly concentric with the spindle.
Here's a tip. You will get a much better finish with a cutter with a smaller tip radius. The ones you see me using are 0.2mm and will give a mirror finish.
Thanks, that confirms something that I was starting to learn from experience. I had a 0.8mm insert in the holder, because I last used it to form an inside radius.
I have this same lathe, so I truly appreciate every video that you do specific to this lathe. I wish you would do one one replacing the gears with metal ones. Thank you!!!
Some addenda: Littlemachineshop has a holder which has a plain 1/2" bore with a sleeve to 3/8" for boring bars; the thread on the fastener that holds everything together is left-handed and a good fit for the step wedge in a mill clamping kit; the leftover stud makes a good replacement for the crude fastener under the tailstock; these posts will accept 1/2" tooling if you mill a little off the top of the cross slide; and, if it's still there, that little detent pulls out easily. I'm particularly impressed with the parting holder; I've parted 2" diameter steel with it.
Am enjoying your mini lathe videos. I found a use for that base plate that came with the QCTP. I used it to replace the flimsy locking plate on the the tail stock. It was 44 mm x 40 mm plate and I modified it by cutting off 4 mm off the 44 mm side making it a 40 mm x 40 mm square. Cutting this way will off set the locking shaft to fit the tail stock. Very little jamming because of the close fit.
I have just bought one of these for my ferm md350 lathe and I was worried of how to get around if it didn’t fit straight out of the box thanks for sharing your video I have no worries now god bless
I have a very similar QCTP on my Warco Super Mini Lathe. It works beautifully. Very sturdy with great repeatability. The real challenge is deciding what type of tool performs best on these lathes.
What type do you prefer so far on the Warco? On the Proxxon I've been mostly using indexable insert CCMT tooling, but that's essentially because I've been too lazy to learn good grinding technique.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe I have tried, and continue to use indexable and HSS tools. Like you the thought of grinding HSS tools is a challenge I have yet to try. I have though invested in a tangential tool holder (diamond tool) from Eccentric Engineering. I love it. It performs so well and is so easy to resharpen. I did however have to slightly modify my QCTP tool holder to get the best out of it.
I also run a Warco Super Mini Lathe since last autumn. In the order was a also a Warco QCTP but I quickly got tired of it and mounted the Machifit 250-000 QCTP. I experienced an issue using the 250-007 and a long stick out of the blade. The holder had to be milled down in order to be able to lower the holder and center the cutting edge. I'll send Alistair some pictures.
Add a small needle roller bearing set between the top of the qctp and the tightening handle. You’ll be able to get more clamping force on the tool-post so it doesn’t rotate away from the work if you’re taking a heavier cut. Works great on my Sieg sc4.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe - Yes. Something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AXK-Axial-Needle-Roller-Thrust-Ball-Bearings-w-2-Washers/263204015323?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d482e8cdb:m:mN7SRwMiWffY4U3YHcdjZbg
Good point about the piston type (I have one of those) pushing the tool holder away while the gib type does the opposite. I wish I had bought a gib type but to be honest the piston style works fine for me and the rough and ready jobs I do on my lathe.
As I am sure you already know the weakest point in these small lathes is rigidity and with my Sieg C6 I have replaced (for 99% of the time) the compound with a solid block of the same height ontop of the cross slide which has the 10mm bolt attached so that the QCTP can fit as normal. However, when I want to part off I then have parting tools firmly attached to the lantern toolpost this makes the cutting forces as close as possible to the 10mm bolt. This makes parting off up to 60mm steel a breeze compared to the old puckered rear end while waiting for the bang and stall as the cutting tool dug in. It is only a matter of undoing the lever nut and swapping out the QCTP for the lantern as everything is already at centre height.
I think you will like the Machifit QCTP. This looks like a copy of the style originally designed by Frank Silora, sold under his "ALORIS" brand name. I have a Phase II copy of the Aloris style. Looks similar to yours, but the next size up, AXA for my 12in lathe. My Phase II version locks solid and the height is repeatable. I purchased one of the knurling tool holders, but it puts far more strain on the compound nut. It now collects dust. I like the tool holders with slot with groove on the bottom. Good for square, rectangular or round tools. Dave.
Cool, interesting to learn a bit of the history behind this design. I think I've heard the name Aloris before, but didn't know that it was the original.
I used a bolt instead of the supplied pin for some reason I don’t remember now. It works ok but it’s a but too large so you lose some space and rigidity because you need to have the compound pretty far back. So it’s ok but not good.
Nice review Alistair. I use a toolpost that is the exact same design, just branded Bostar, instead of Machifit. I would not be without it! Recommended upgrade for any lathe. Cheers, Craig
Sounds like exactly the same toolpost. I can find it all over the place under different names, which is re-assuring for the future of being able to buy the holders reliably.
Hi, I wonder if you or any of your viewers could help me. I need to know the size of the dovetail on the tool holders for this toolpost. I have lots of tool holders for the aluminum pushrod type toolpost and was hoping that I could convert them to fit this if I bought one. The pushrod one took a 25mm dovetail cutter to produce the exact size on the tool holders.
I have tested a toolholder from an aluminium piston style toolpost on this cuniform gib toolpost, and it did not fit. The toolholder was too small. I can get more details of the dovetail measurement this evening if you are interested.
What is the distance between the top of the compound slide and axis of rotation and how big are your cutting tools. My lathe is very small and there are only 15mm. So with most QCTPs I am very limited in cutter size
In this video I'm using an 8mm tool, and the height of the axis above the compound is 19mm. The bottom of the tool holder is 4mm thick, so with an 8mm tool this post would need a height above the compound of 12mm. On your lathe it could even work with 10mm tooling.
I have an identical tool post, but not from matchifit. I suspect they are out of the same factory. I like the tapered tool holder, don’t think I’ve ever seen one. Thanks for sharing. -Joe
I've seen posts with exactly the same markings branded as OXA elsewhere, though only in the US. I only see Machifit branding on Banggood, so I think it's the brand name they put on generic tools they sell on their site.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe I read somewhere that little machine shop with the help of someone else designed the OXA tool post for mini lathes. Not sure if it’s true.
I bought this same QCTP for my lathe although my lathe is little big bigger (Bernardo 500). I thought that OXA/AXA would be the right sizes to fit but still think that AXA is little bit too big for my lathe. Im using 12mm tool holders. It works pretty nice.
I'm having problems with using the proxxon live center.. the live center keeps getting loose from the workpiece... also, when I put more pressure on the live center it is able to move the workpiece deeper into the chuck.. Do you have any tips?
Thanks for your reply! I cleaned the chuck jaws from oil and that appears to hold the material better! Hope this problem will not happen again. One more little question: sometimes my centerdrill is not able to drill the hole perfectly in the middle. Do you have any tips for doing that any better?
Hi I just bought similar lathe but I have dificulties understanding how to operate it because I am not a machinest. from your tow videos disassembling and reassembling the minilathe machine I learned a lot and knew how to do adjusting and lubrecating. now I need to know how to make thread. the lathe came with several gears and really I don't know for what they are used. please addvice me. I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advace
It has the correct height range, which is the most important thing, but a custom bolt or stud will be required to fix it down properly. I plan to fit another of this toolpost to the Proxxon, but haven't gotten around to making the stud yet.
Hi, thanks for the video -- why did you buy the Sieg Copy, which is 499 from ebay, instead of the real Sieg, which is available for 80 quid more from arceurotrade? Genuine question, I've been pondering getting a C2 or a C3, and I've heard loads of horror stories from the chinese version -- so what convinced you to go for that one? Is there something I'm missing? Also you mentioned "problems" with yours, have you documented these somewhere? Thanks!
The simple answer is that I paid a lot less than 499 for this lathe. The closest Sieg model I can see on arceurotrade is listed for 590, and I paid a little over 300 for this one. I see similar listings pop up on eBay from time to time, but the number is always limited, and it seems to be listed as s different seller each time. I guess I'm lucky I got anything at all. :) The reason I went for the cheapest possible, is I had genuine interest in finding out what the cheapeast option possible was like, and I figured it would make some interesting informative videos as well. If I have the time and money, would a direct comparison between a real Sieg and the Real Bull Machine copy be of interest?
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I think it would be very interesting personally -- the 'field' of hobby lathe has a lot of stuff on, but a lot is outdated as well, ie nothing on the 'newer' brusless motors for example. Or wether the newer imports have metallic gears -- or just how much do you need to 'mod' them to make them usable...
I'm certain it would fit, and I'm considering using this one when I install a solid tool post mount in place of the compound on the Proxxon. The original toolpost will stay on the compound, and be used for threading and taper work, and the Machifit will be for regular facing, turning and everything else.
The Proxxon will need a custom stud, as the compound and saddle don't have the same M10 hole that the chinese lathes come with, and the tool post needs by default.
Yep, 12mm tools fit into the holders, and the is enough height above the compound on the CJ0618. 12*12 tool holder shafts stick out horizontally a bit though.
I think Lego Space Guy has noone but himself to blame for his carelessness, though the assistant you sent could perhaps have shown a little more concern. ;)
Thanks for your videos about the mini lathe, they where very helpful for me. I ordered one and also a Machifit toolpost with some holders. But I don't know which parting tool/blade to order for the 250-007. Can you recommend a universal parting tool/blade which is good for for steel and aluminum? Especially the needed size would be very interesting. Maybe you even have a link for a fitting one (seller or shop). Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Great video. Really useful and thanks for the fitting instructions. Looks to be the same type Chronos sell at a kit 50053000. Interestingly they note that the 250-007 parting holder is not really suitable for small lathes as the angle is too much. There is a straight alternative though.
@@griplove Well I have no direct experience however Chronos sell it as a set and from the note on the product page it suggests that some customers have told them it's not suitable. I guess they don't change the contents of the set as it comes pre bundled from their supplier. It would be great if it does work with the mini lathe as I may well end up with one. Thanks
I suspect that the note on Chronos is due to the fact that the blade is tilted up. If you need a longer parting blade, that will push the tip higher up, which may mean the tool post doesn't have enough range on a small lathe to bring the tip down to centre.
@@griplove Just ordered one of these from Chronos in the UK. The littlemachineshop site does a good explanation and the 'T' does make the difference. The 007 has a 4deg angle whilst the 007T is straight. According to that site you need .75" from the cross slide to the centre for the 4deg version, my lathe has about .71" so I am not overly hopeful. Anyhow even with this downside the rest of the set looks well worth the money 😀
The Chinese are great in a lot of areas food writing engineering products price I could go on all day lol alot of people just put them down because of some cheap things they sell but it's not always the case.
you should really consider using HSS tools for a lathe that small. you'll never get good finishes with carbide tooling on such a small and slow lathe...
I have come to the conclusion that after watching many videos on the 'tube there is a desperate need for a listing in electronic format..... to compare the various lathes, mills and tool peripherals like QCTP's, carbide inserts and most tool holders in various configurations that most people on BANGGOOD, EBAY, AND AMAZON spend lots of money on. I have always thought that a loose leaf folder that gets added to and upgraded with the variety of tooling as time goes by would do the trick, but paper seems to build into a huge Bible like volume that loses itself and smothers the content by variety of pages without an index. I suppose it would just degenerate into a catalogue once the tool perveyors get in on the act, but what the heck, a catalogue usually depicts the tool in all it's glory and you can judge for yourself......just thinking, as I've gone down this path many times before and paper does accumulate by the ream so a digital file of engineering paraphanalia would be the one place to go to for all your needs. Compiling one would take ages and you wouldn't be able to have the comparison of variety to peruse if you didn't have access to the info etc.
Yes they might send you a free be..but if you buy from them and get the wrong size they won't take it back unless you pay almost 50% of the cost in return fees ..I wouldn't Buy anything from them now..
*Excellent lathe **MyBest.Tools** I started turning pens, and this is a very smooth running lathe. I am glad that I went with a variable speed lathe. It is made of top quality materials and will probably out last me. I highly recommend.*
I have this same toolpost on my mini-lathe, and it's one of the best modifications I've made. As you said, it's miles better than the cheap aluminum QCTP's most people seem to use. Better rigidity, better repeatability. Combined with a tool post block (in place of the compound), I've been pretty impressed with the depth of cut I can take.
What's the best depth you've managed with a reasonable finish? Is your lathe similar?
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe With aluminum cutting inserts, I can take a 0.050" DOC in 6061 and still get a decent finish. 0.100" is possible, but surface finish definitely suffers, and the machine bogs (and sometimes stalls).
And yes, it's a similar lathe to yours. That lathe is made by one company (Seig), then rebranded and sold by a lot of different companies. Mine is from Harbor Freight in the US.
@@exhempknight Nice!
I was about to mention the same point. I started with the aluminum version and while it was convenient and quick, it just wasn't very rigid. A friend then uptraded me to the steel version shown in this video. It was well worth the extra cost. Advice to others: go straight to the steel version.
Another way I was taught for setting the tool height on a centre lathe is to put a dead centre in the tailstock and use that to shim / adjust the tool until it is level with the centre point. This works well for all types of tool and saves stock (which saves money)
I was taught the same technique working on big engine lathes, but it's only as accurate as the tailstock height. Unfortunately the tailstock for this lathe is way off centre height, so useless as a reference.
I was taught to pinch a machinist's scale (pocket ruler) between the tool and workpiece, if it's vertical the tool is on center, if the top is tilted towards the workpiece the tool is high, tilted towards the tool and the tool is low. Quick and dirty and pretty accurate, make minute adjustments after you start turning if the tool isn't exactly on center. Of course it only works well if the workpiece is fairly round to begin with and fairly concentric with the spindle.
Here's a tip. You will get a much better finish with a cutter with a smaller tip radius. The ones you see me using are 0.2mm and will give a mirror finish.
Thanks, that confirms something that I was starting to learn from experience. I had a 0.8mm insert in the holder, because I last used it to form an inside radius.
I have this same lathe, so I truly appreciate every video that you do specific to this lathe. I wish you would do one one replacing the gears with metal ones. Thank you!!!
Glad to be of help. I have a video on replacing the gears lined up, but not right away.
Some addenda: Littlemachineshop has a holder which has a plain 1/2" bore with a sleeve to 3/8" for boring bars; the thread on the fastener that holds everything together is left-handed and a good fit for the step wedge in a mill clamping kit; the leftover stud makes a good replacement for the crude fastener under the tailstock; these posts will accept 1/2" tooling if you mill a little off the top of the cross slide; and, if it's still there, that little detent pulls out easily. I'm particularly impressed with the parting holder; I've parted 2" diameter steel with it.
Fit a Unimat DB200 I wonder...
Am enjoying your mini lathe videos. I found a use for that base plate that came with the QCTP. I used it to replace the flimsy locking plate on the the tail stock. It was 44 mm x 40 mm plate and I modified it by cutting off 4 mm off the 44 mm side making it a 40 mm x 40 mm square. Cutting this way will off set the locking shaft to fit the tail stock. Very little jamming because of the close fit.
Nice idea!
As far as locking the saddle for facing cuts, I always put the feed-screw in neutral and lock the half nut. Works great!
I have just bought one of these for my ferm md350 lathe and I was worried of how to get around if it didn’t fit straight out of the box thanks for sharing your video I have no worries now god bless
I have a very similar QCTP on my Warco Super Mini Lathe. It works beautifully. Very sturdy with great repeatability. The real challenge is deciding what type of tool performs best on these lathes.
What type do you prefer so far on the Warco? On the Proxxon I've been mostly using indexable insert CCMT tooling, but that's essentially because I've been too lazy to learn good grinding technique.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe I have tried, and continue to use indexable and HSS tools. Like you the thought of grinding HSS tools is a challenge I have yet to try. I have though invested in a tangential tool holder (diamond tool) from Eccentric Engineering. I love it. It performs so well and is so easy to resharpen. I did however have to slightly modify my QCTP tool holder to get the best out of it.
I also run a Warco Super Mini Lathe since last autumn. In the order was a also a Warco QCTP but I quickly got tired of it and mounted the Machifit 250-000 QCTP.
I experienced an issue using the 250-007 and a long stick out of the blade. The holder had to be milled down in order to be able to lower the holder and center the cutting edge. I'll send Alistair some pictures.
Thanks for the video. I now know where my order went. still waiting.
It looks like it was out of stock for a while, so the second one I ordered for my Proxxon took over a month to ship. Hope you get yours soon.
They say it is now shipped.
Add a small needle roller bearing set between the top of the qctp and the tightening handle. You’ll be able to get more clamping force on the tool-post so it doesn’t rotate away from the work if you’re taking a heavier cut. Works great on my Sieg sc4.
Is that a thrust type bearing?
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe - Yes. Something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AXK-Axial-Needle-Roller-Thrust-Ball-Bearings-w-2-Washers/263204015323?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d482e8cdb:m:mN7SRwMiWffY4U3YHcdjZbg
@@GreatOldOne Nice! Thanks!
Just ordered a couple.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe That is a good tip re the thrust bearing. Arc Eurotrade recommended it to me. It does add to the rigidity.
Seems quite a decent addition within a reasonable budget. I would buy one based on this video. Well done! ;-)
Ordered this and a few holders a few weeks ago, looking forward to the slow boat from China pulling into port.
Thinking of buying this now. What's your experience been after a year?
Good point about the piston type (I have one of those) pushing the tool holder away while the gib type does the opposite. I wish I had bought a gib type but to be honest the piston style works fine for me and the rough and ready jobs I do on my lathe.
As I am sure you already know the weakest point in these small lathes is rigidity and with my Sieg C6 I have replaced (for 99% of the time) the compound with a solid block of the same height ontop of the cross slide which has the 10mm bolt attached so that the QCTP can fit as normal. However, when I want to part off I then have parting tools firmly attached to the lantern toolpost this makes the cutting forces as close as possible to the 10mm bolt. This makes parting off up to 60mm steel a breeze compared to the old puckered rear end while waiting for the bang and stall as the cutting tool dug in. It is only a matter of undoing the lever nut and swapping out the QCTP for the lantern as everything is already at centre height.
They look very well made. Let's hope they perform as well as they look.
I think you will like the Machifit QCTP.
This looks like a copy of the style originally designed by Frank Silora, sold under his "ALORIS" brand name. I have a Phase II copy of the Aloris style. Looks similar to yours, but the next size up, AXA for my 12in lathe.
My Phase II version locks solid and the height is repeatable.
I purchased one of the knurling tool holders, but it puts far more strain on the compound nut. It now collects dust.
I like the tool holders with slot with groove on the bottom. Good for square, rectangular or round tools.
Dave.
Cool, interesting to learn a bit of the history behind this design. I think I've heard the name Aloris before, but didn't know that it was the original.
I just received this one too! But I put it on the Proxxon 250.
Yeah it’s a bit large but sure is nicer than the fixed post it came with.
Hi, so it can be installed without problem on the Proxxon 250?
I used a bolt instead of the supplied pin for some reason I don’t remember now. It works ok but it’s a but too large so you lose some space and rigidity because you need to have the compound pretty far back. So it’s ok but not good.
Nice review Alistair. I use a toolpost that is the exact same design, just branded Bostar, instead of Machifit. I would not be without it! Recommended upgrade for any lathe. Cheers, Craig
Sounds like exactly the same toolpost. I can find it all over the place under different names, which is re-assuring for the future of being able to buy the holders reliably.
Hi, I wonder if you or any of your viewers could help me. I need to know the size of the dovetail on the tool holders for this toolpost. I have lots of tool holders for the aluminum pushrod type toolpost and was hoping that I could convert them to fit this if I bought one. The pushrod one took a 25mm dovetail cutter to produce the exact size on the tool holders.
I have tested a toolholder from an aluminium piston style toolpost on this cuniform gib toolpost, and it did not fit. The toolholder was too small. I can get more details of the dovetail measurement this evening if you are interested.
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Yes it would be great if you could measure the dovetail on one of the toolholders, thanks.
What is the distance between the top of the compound slide and axis of rotation and how big are your cutting tools. My lathe is very small and there are only 15mm. So with most QCTPs I am very limited in cutter size
In this video I'm using an 8mm tool, and the height of the axis above the compound is 19mm. The bottom of the tool holder is 4mm thick, so with an 8mm tool this post would need a height above the compound of 12mm. On your lathe it could even work with 10mm tooling.
try putting a center into the chuck and then lining up the tool tip to the center tip
I have an identical tool post, but not from matchifit. I suspect they are out of the same factory. I like the tapered tool holder, don’t think I’ve ever seen one. Thanks for sharing.
-Joe
I've seen posts with exactly the same markings branded as OXA elsewhere, though only in the US. I only see Machifit branding on Banggood, so I think it's the brand name they put on generic tools they sell on their site.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe I read somewhere that little machine shop with the help of someone else designed the OXA tool post for mini lathes. Not sure if it’s true.
I bought this same QCTP for my lathe although my lathe is little big bigger (Bernardo 500). I thought that OXA/AXA would be the right sizes to fit but still think that AXA is little bit too big for my lathe. Im using 12mm tool holders. It works pretty nice.
I'm having problems with using the proxxon live center.. the live center keeps getting loose from the workpiece... also, when I put more pressure on the live center it is able to move the workpiece deeper into the chuck.. Do you have any tips?
Honestly it sounds like your chuck isn't tight enough on the part. Are you working with material that you need to be very gentle with?
Thanks for your reply! I cleaned the chuck jaws from oil and that appears to hold the material better! Hope this problem will not happen again. One more little question: sometimes my centerdrill is not able to drill the hole perfectly in the middle. Do you have any tips for doing that any better?
Hi I just bought similar lathe but I have dificulties understanding how to operate it because I am not a machinest. from your tow videos disassembling and reassembling the minilathe machine I learned a lot and knew how to do adjusting and lubrecating. now I need to know how to make thread. the lathe came with several gears and really I don't know for what they are used. please addvice me. I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advace
Dose it fits your Proxxon lathe?
It has the correct height range, which is the most important thing, but a custom bolt or stud will be required to fix it down properly. I plan to fit another of this toolpost to the Proxxon, but haven't gotten around to making the stud yet.
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Waiting for the final setup😎.
Huh... I have a 7x14 and don’t get that shifting of the saddle... 🤔
The saddle is just really badly fitted on this one. My current project is working on fixing that.
Hi, thanks for the video -- why did you buy the Sieg Copy, which is 499 from ebay, instead of the real Sieg, which is available for 80 quid more from arceurotrade? Genuine question, I've been pondering getting a C2 or a C3, and I've heard loads of horror stories from the chinese version -- so what convinced you to go for that one? Is there something I'm missing? Also you mentioned "problems" with yours, have you documented these somewhere? Thanks!
The simple answer is that I paid a lot less than 499 for this lathe. The closest Sieg model I can see on arceurotrade is listed for 590, and I paid a little over 300 for this one. I see similar listings pop up on eBay from time to time, but the number is always limited, and it seems to be listed as s different seller each time. I guess I'm lucky I got anything at all. :)
The reason I went for the cheapest possible, is I had genuine interest in finding out what the cheapeast option possible was like, and I figured it would make some interesting informative videos as well.
If I have the time and money, would a direct comparison between a real Sieg and the Real Bull Machine copy be of interest?
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I think it would be very interesting personally -- the 'field' of hobby lathe has a lot of stuff on, but a lot is outdated as well, ie nothing on the 'newer' brusless motors for example. Or wether the newer imports have metallic gears -- or just how much do you need to 'mod' them to make them usable...
Nice. Have you tried this toolpost on the proxxon lathe? Would it fit?
I'm certain it would fit, and I'm considering using this one when I install a solid tool post mount in place of the compound on the Proxxon. The original toolpost will stay on the compound, and be used for threading and taper work, and the Machifit will be for regular facing, turning and everything else.
The Proxxon will need a custom stud, as the compound and saddle don't have the same M10 hole that the chinese lathes come with, and the tool post needs by default.
Nice. Thanks for the feedback
Would I be able to use 12mm tools with this post?
Thanks
Mitch
Yep, 12mm tools fit into the holders, and the is enough height above the compound on the CJ0618. 12*12 tool holder shafts stick out horizontally a bit though.
On handle threads I'll put some blue Loctite so they don't back out all the time, but if I had to remove it's still OK. Don't use Red Loctite)
Nice to see the extra pair of hands still assisting but he seems to need a safety briefing about shop etiquette towards his co workers!
I think Lego Space Guy has noone but himself to blame for his carelessness, though the assistant you sent could perhaps have shown a little more concern. ;)
Well this advertisement worked on me. Ordered one for my Ferm MFD450.
Thanks for your videos about the mini lathe, they where very helpful for me. I ordered one and also a Machifit toolpost with some holders. But I don't know which parting tool/blade to order for the 250-007. Can you recommend a universal parting tool/blade which is good for for steel and aluminum? Especially the needed size would be very interesting. Maybe you even have a link for a fitting one (seller or shop). Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Great video. Really useful and thanks for the fitting instructions. Looks to be the same type Chronos sell at a kit 50053000. Interestingly they note that the 250-007 parting holder is not really suitable for small lathes as the angle is too much. There is a straight alternative though.
mrrgstuff how do you mean? my 250-007 worked fine until I broke a Allen wrench in the locking screw.
@@griplove Well I have no direct experience however Chronos sell it as a set and from the note on the product page it suggests that some customers have told them it's not suitable. I guess they don't change the contents of the set as it comes pre bundled from their supplier. It would be great if it does work with the mini lathe as I may well end up with one. Thanks
mrrgstuff upon inspection it’s actually 07T not sure if that’s the difference. Good luck
I suspect that the note on Chronos is due to the fact that the blade is tilted up. If you need a longer parting blade, that will push the tip higher up, which may mean the tool post doesn't have enough range on a small lathe to bring the tip down to centre.
@@griplove Just ordered one of these from Chronos in the UK. The littlemachineshop site does a good explanation and the 'T' does make the difference. The 007 has a 4deg angle whilst the 007T is straight. According to that site you need .75" from the cross slide to the centre for the 4deg version, my lathe has about .71" so I am not overly hopeful. Anyhow even with this downside the rest of the set looks well worth the money 😀
The Chinese are great in a lot of areas food writing engineering products price I could go on all day lol alot of people just put them down because of some cheap things they sell but it's not always the case.
Cool these chinese mini lathes look ok thanks for sharing man
I like more the revolving one that can hold 4 cutting tools.
Thanks for sharing
nice i would like to test one
That LEGO skit at the end cracked me up 😂
you should really consider using HSS tools for a lathe that small. you'll never get good finishes with carbide tooling on such a small and slow lathe...
I have come to the conclusion that after watching many videos on the 'tube there is a desperate need for a listing in electronic format..... to compare the various lathes, mills and tool peripherals like QCTP's, carbide inserts and most tool holders in various configurations that most people on BANGGOOD, EBAY, AND AMAZON spend lots of money on.
I have always thought that a loose leaf folder that gets added to and upgraded with the variety of tooling as time goes by would do the trick, but paper seems to build into a huge Bible like volume that loses itself and smothers the content by variety of pages without an index.
I suppose it would just degenerate into a catalogue once the tool perveyors get in on the act, but what the heck, a catalogue usually depicts the tool in all it's glory and you can judge for yourself......just thinking, as I've gone down this path many times before and paper does accumulate by the ream so a digital file of engineering paraphanalia would be the one place to go to for all your needs.
Compiling one would take ages and you wouldn't be able to have the comparison of variety to peruse if you didn't have access to the info etc.
I got one of these for my mini love it
I hope no little red men were harmed during filming!
Probably could have lived without watching you open the packages. .
Noted. Unboxing videos are sometimes popular, but I guess these boxes were a bit mundane. Thanks for sticking through it.
Not so bad. It slows down the speed to a confortable and relaxing wieving. Nice to se packages not being demolished as my ones have been.
I think your Allen wrenches cost more than your lathe. 😁
But they are really great Allen wrenches, and totally worth it. :)
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I totally agree, I have a set of my own! :)
Yes they might send you a free be..but if you buy from them and get the wrong size they won't take it back unless you pay almost 50% of the cost in return fees ..I wouldn't Buy anything from them now..