Everyone keep in mind these are still-air tests, in a fast-moving drone with openings or exposed wires the air would help cool the wires so 60A would be an even better bet. Good to know the XT30 won't be burning up inside. Thanks for the video!
I prefer to use an XT60 connector on my 3 inch because I pull about 80a from my 1408 3052 setup haha! Very nice video though. well thought out and good calm voice-over. Keep it up guys!
Any advice on easily unplugging sticky XT30 connectors? I've just got my first drone and I'm finding unplugging these connectors a struggle! Thanks for all the nerdy details you provide, thoroughly enjoying your channel :-)
@@Alvarezgn Yeah i did after some more research. - An XT30U has an indent on both sides of female plug - An XT30UD has an indent on only one side of the female plug, the other side is flat. So an XT30UD is similar in shape to its larger brother, the XT60 Female connector but an XT30U is not.
Very nice and to the point video. Very high signal to noise ratio. Even 6 years later just what I needed. How about testing the ridiculous current ratings on some ESCs.
Great video, could you clarify what the material of the conductor/wire is. It looks to me like it is some kind aluminium,a tinned copper wire? It doesn't look like copper. And could you do the same test again with a normal stranded copper wire instead of this vague "aluminium"? Subbed : )
+ordiantakeover Fair question, I should have specified that! We used silicon wires, rated 200°C, with multi strand, tinned copper cores. This is pretty much the only kind of wire that should be used on drones, due to how soft it is, and therefore how well it can handle vibrations. We're gonna do a separate video on our wire recommendations at some point hopefully :)
@@AfafPrinceOSH The motors seem to have a max current of 33A each, so with four of them the XT30 will have a hard time at max current. But if you put a battery that can only outputs 60A, you should be fine. (Like a 1000mah 60C or 700mah 85C etc)
Very well done tests and video with comments. Thank you for sharing this information and showing the use of your high power test equipment. It would be great to have a summary of the test results listed in your comments so that folks can watch your video, and then be able to quickly refer back to the results for future reference. Since your video is short, adding the results in the comments would be a bonus. I look forward to more of your videos.
One thing not mentioned is avoiding reverse connections. While TX60's are fairly difficult to plug in backwards, meaning you would hopefully realize something isn't right because you are trying to push too hard before forcing them together, the XT30's can be pushed together backwards with only a few pounds of force. Some XT60's are harder to push together than others and if you are used to the force of pushing "difficult" XT60's together, you could use the same force on XT30's without paying attention to polarity and actually get them together enough to complete a reverse connection.
Huh. I just tried that with a fresh pair of XT30-Us (the newer, “upgraded” ones) and I didn’t manage to get them to connect backwards without using tools. Maybe the revised ones are a bit better at preventing this, or maybe some wear and tear makes the reverse connection easier. I’ll try that again if I find some older or used connectors.
@@dronelab1280 It is certainly possible that some connectors are better than others. The quality of this unbranded stuff from China varies a lot. It likely helps a lot to purchase from a reputable seller who doesn't want to damage their reputation by selling bad quality ones so they test their product first.
That looks like (likely an illegitimate copy of) a two-pin Molex EconoLatch connector. They aren't that big, more similar to an XT30 than the XT60, and Molex officially rates them to only 11.5A continuously. They most certainly can handle more in a short burst, but still, I would not trust them with drone-level high currents, and would recommend staying with the Amass connectors instead.
I have been wondering if I could down size to XT30 on my 4 inch drones using 4S 850mah and 1606 motors. Sounds like I am right above the threshold of an XT30. Its really unfortunate because I'm right about the 250g limit and need to shave a few grams.
It will be hot (80-90°C) but it won't desolder. Make sure the wires you use tolerate such temperatures. PVC insulated wires don't, but silicone wires do.
If you say "Everything you need to know" then in the video should be everything. But i don't see comparison XT30 vs XT30U vs XT30WU and etc. As well when soldering wire to the connector, you should connect male+female connectors together, to have a twice bigger area for heat dissipation so the plastic would not melt.
They do look quite interesting indeed! I just ordered a couple and will give them a test when they arrive (as long as it won't be too cold outside, since I shouldn't run these fire-tests indoors)
@@dronelab1280 Great;-) At 0.58g the BT 2.0 is a lot lighter than the XT30. For 2S two BT 2.0 connectors are still a half gram lighter than just one XT30. The quality of the bullets used makes a difference so specs don't usually tell the whole story... can't wait to see your real world test results. Thanks... should get a lot of views as this connector has been needed for years now. Just hope the battery manufactures start using it right off and aren't too spoiled from using a crimp tool instead of soldering. The PH 2.0 is so bad I can't believe Emax used it on the Tinyhawks...
Very true, there is definitely a gap between what the PH 2.0 or the "2mm molex" can handle and the XT30. Essentially an "XT15" would be nice, and that BT 2.0 really looks like it could handle that task. We will see in a couple of weeks!
@@dronelab1280 Cool ;-) Can't wait as deciding what to build next and need light weight parts like everyone else... between the new RunCam 3 @ 1 gram without wires but better overall performance than the RCam Nano 2 and the BT 2.0 saving over a gram it's been a great new year so far for micro scale RC Aircraft with two critical parts improved and brought down in scale.
We didn't get them from the most legitimate source, but they seem pretty genuine. The measured resistance matches the official AMASS datasheet within 10% (0.77mΩ vs 0.70mΩ) and we performed our test at 20A, which did cause the connector to heat up a bit above room temp and rise in resistance. We also tested the melting point of the plastic case, and since it could withstand 200C+ for a couple of seconds, we are fairly certain those are legitimate pieces. Our XT90 test was on a piece we got from a very reliable distributor, and the results both here and there were very inline with the manufacturer data. So even if this XT30 is a clone, it was made very accurately to the original specifications :)
It depends a lot on your setup, but generally it's best to run hotter but for a shorter time. You do not want to let too much heat reach the nylon case before you're done soldering. Try 350°C, if the case keeps melting, go hotter and faster.
Excellent test! Have you considered using higher temperature solder? Then redo the test, you will be able to go higher in amperage. The solder is getting hot and re flowing causing the connector to pop off. Regular solder will reflow at 220C after about 30 sec. Sn5Pb93.5Ag1.5 can go to 300C.
That is a tempting thing to try, and it would probably add a bit of current capability, or hold the same current for a bit longer. But at above 200°C, both the silicone insolation of the wire, and the nylon plastic in the connector will start to take damage. So although it's much better to slightly melt the connector or degrade the wire, than have a connection snap off, I would still recommend the same currents and limits, even with a more temperature tolerant solder. But it's definitely worth at least a test, so we'll try to schedule one with high temp solder at some point.
Hi, which connector should i use for a 1s microdrone, I'm thinking of this xt30 because of the low voltage sag but it is also heavier than a micro losi or a JST as an example. Would i feel a difference in punch if i switch from the micro losi with 22awg wire to an xt30 with 20 or even 18awg wire?
I would probably stick to the micro losi (also known as the "2.0mm molex" - we have a video on that one as well). The sag difference is 0.015V at 5A and 0.050V at 15A - microdrones usually take less than this in hover/punch respectively. This translates to about 1% power loss in hover, and 2.7% in punch. The math behind this works as follows: Efficiency = ( (Battery voltage - sag) / (Battery voltage) )^2 If the additional weight of the XT30 over a Losi is more than 2% of your drone, I'd recommend the lighter Losi. On a micro drone, I'd also recommend lowering your battery alarm levels to something like 3.2V per cell. Since the battery can't go out of balance, and the voltage drop at the point of measurement is more significant than for bigger drones, it's safe to push it a bit lower than the normally recommended 3.5V. Just really land as soon as you get the alarm ;)
Thank you for the video! Could you tell us who designed XT connectors and why they are called "XT..."? (I just learned about JST en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector)
To my understanding, it was designed by the Hong Kong company "hexTronik", with XT literarily taken from the middle of their name. It's the same company that runs the "Hobby King" store, where they are sold under the "Turnigy" brand. The connectors are produced under license (I think) by a Chinese manufacturer called Amass, and Amass sells them as well under their own company name. The "Turnigy" and "Amass" labeled connectors would both be considered "original parts", and those are the ones we recommend.
It's a bit counter-intuitive, but the voltage doesn't actually matter - as long as it doesn't spark over. Connectors and cables are only limited by current. So as long as the door speakers take less than 30A on average (RMS), and the woofer is under 90A, you should be fine.
@@dronelab1280 That definitely works for me, then. Heck, I could run a less efficient (but better sounding) class AB amp for the door speakers and still have about 2x the wattage capacity that I'd need for each connector. Different story on the XT90, though. I'd have to stick with class D for sure or I'd be slightly underpowered bass-wise on anything with more than a front 3-way component setup, or front 2 way and rear coaxial. Anyway, thanks for the answer! If you know of any similar connectors that can handle, say, 150-220 amps, let me know!
I am very much looking forward to test the BT2.0, and I already have a 10-pack of them waiting on a shelf. Unfortunately, KTH campus and its laboratories - where we perform our tests - is on COVID lockdown, so it might be a while until we can run any tests :(
thanks for the clip... im still a little bit confused... i got a 8a 5v power supply... i would like to power 100 led (6amp all on white) i bought xt60 connectors.. but i realiszed the cables from the led and the jjumper cables from my arduino are way to thin for the xt60... can i still solder them on there with out having problems?
You can solder a thinner wire to the XT60, but the current capacity of the entire "system" will be then limited by the wire. If your wire looks like this www.adafruit.com/product/758 , then 6A is a little too much for comfort, especially if the wire isn't getting good airflow (for example: when closed inside a box or hidden in a wall). To be safe, I'd recommend getting a 26 or even 24 AWG wire. It will still be comically thin on an XT60, but it will definitely handle 6A.
When hand-soldering with an iron, there are many factors to account for when picking temperature. In case of these connectors, you want to solder them fast enough to make sure the brass contact doesn't have enough time to transfer heat to the plastic housing and damage it. So, counter intuitively you might want a higher temperature. 350C is a good starting point, but you might need a bit more on a small iron (
Although the connectors are rated to withstand up to 500V as long as they are dry and clean, I can't say I would recommend it for such applications, especially if by 120V you mean AC mains. The XT series connectors do not protect from accidental touching of the conductors, so with higher voltages you risk electric shock, or accidental shorting of the device. A tiny amount of moisture might also bridge the connection. If it's a DC connection, that will never be handled by a human and won't be exposed to water, then you can use the XT30 or 60. But otherwise I would instead strongly recommend something a more protected, like a C7 plug.
@@dronelab1280 Thank you for your answer,! yes it is for a AC current supply but it's not for use as a plug directly. I'm separating the "phases" of a nema conector (drive.google.com/file/d/1M6JfIk-_ATCjchDvn8Uy_uygFmieWB6P/view?usp=sharing), and I have fuses to protect all the circuitry
The "U" is the "upgraded" design. It handles a bit better, and has a hole that prevents crud from accumulating but there isn't any significant difference. They are compatible - you can plug a "U" into a "non-U".
As measured: outer 2.3mm, inner 1.3mm. +/- 0.1mm because I don't have a proper calliper on hand. An AWG18 wire fits comfortably, and an AWG16 fits just barely on the inside.
@@dronelab1280 Thank you! Every dimensional drawing I've found online somehow decided it was ok to omit that detail so I was forced to just ask around. This is so I can solder an XT30 connector to a PCB, btw.
@@cancelskawoforgivingmedlib4710 Oh! In that case you should get the PCB-mountable version. www.tme.eu/en/details/xt30upb-m/dc-power-connectors/amass/ This one has full (not hollow) pins, and they are properly dimensioned in the datasheet (1.6mm). There is also a horizontal version with extra mounting pins www.tme.eu/en/details/xt30pw-m/dc-power-connectors/amass/
We briefly compare the Dean's to an XT60, in our XT60 video, as they are much more similar in size. The Dean's can carry much more current than the XT30 here(150A burst vs 60A on the XT30) but for that it needs a thicker wire (12 AWG vs 16-18 AWG) and the connector itself is significantly heavier (~4.4g vs 1.6g). Interestingly enough, the Deans has a slightly higher contact resistance than the XT30 (1.9 vs 1.6 mΩ), but its extra mass and surface area helps it survive short bursts of current. For continuous loads, the advantage isn't that big (50A on the t-deans, 30A on the XT30).
How is it possible to to send "CURRENT" through without a voltage? My school thought me that any current measured is pointless without knowing the voltage at the current flow. Can someone explain? [ EDIT: I found out myself - Yes, it matters and matters not - A) Cable will burn before B) Hobby voltage is assumed C) Connector will sustain 300W ]
In a real scenario, the current flowing through the connector causes some voltage drop, and the power of that is what is melting the connector. The voltage delivered to the actual load behind the connector does not matter, as that power is not dissipated on the connector. In our tests we get the connectors to melt at voltages as low as 0.1v. Only the current matters.
The difference is only in the plastic case, the brass contacts remained unchanged. The new shape should be a little easier to handle, and possibly less prone mechanical wear, as the edges are now rounded, and the long side wall is reinforced. Electrical performance should be the same. Our tests were done on the XT30U's, at this point it's almost difficult to find an "old" XT30. A lot of retailers just call them "XT30" even if they are the upgraded model.
Yes, they are interchangeable and compatible with each other both ways. Though I would expect a connection between an upgraded one and and old one to have the worst mechanical properties, because of the slightly mismatched shapes but it will fit and conduct electricity just fine.
You discredited the mini deans by an assumption that they couldn't handle the rated amps... I can tell you they absolutely can handle 30A without getting hot. All the people saying this is a good video are completely gullible to your foolish statements. Why don't you do some real testing instead of acting like an authority?
Not sure what you are referring to here. We don't even mention the mini deans. We compare the XT30 to the JST here, and for that comparison of course we did proper testing. I wouldn't say we act as an authority, in fact, the only thing we do here is tests, and show the results. We might try this "mini deans", but as it's not particularily popular, I doubt if many people will be interested in such a test. Unless you mean the classic "t-deans", which of course we tested extensively, but we wouldn't compare it to the XT30, as its much heavier. (3x) We did compare it to the XT60 though, in that video.
This video is AMAZING! Thank you!
Everyone keep in mind these are still-air tests, in a fast-moving drone with openings or exposed wires the air would help cool the wires so 60A would be an even better bet. Good to know the XT30 won't be burning up inside. Thanks for the video!
He had a fan blowing on it though, so perhaps it's equal to light cruising :)
I prefer to use an XT60 connector on my 3 inch because I pull about 80a from my 1408 3052 setup haha! Very nice video though. well thought out and good calm voice-over. Keep it up guys!
I'd freakn LOVE to see a JST-PH 2.0 test like this.
This is really useful info, I've always wondered this. I figure the XT connectors were always under-rated to be safe.
I absolutely love the xt series!
You sir, have helped me in so many ways, I thank you for such quality content!
Great video. Amazing sound effects 1:57
Thanks your sharing your results.
Any advice on easily unplugging sticky XT30 connectors? I've just got my first drone and I'm finding unplugging these connectors a struggle!
Thanks for all the nerdy details you provide, thoroughly enjoying your channel :-)
Good example
CANT STOP WATCHING THIS
Very well done video, looking forward to more.
Good Video 👍👌 What's the difference between Amass XT30UD & XT30U connectors ?🤔 Is it just shape difference between the two or something more ? 🤷♂️
Do you know the difference now?
@@Alvarezgn Yeah i did after some more research.
- An XT30U has an indent on both sides of female plug
- An XT30UD has an indent on only one side of the female plug, the other side is flat.
So an XT30UD is similar in shape to its larger brother, the XT60 Female connector but an XT30U is not.
Majestically desoldering....Great video!
the best description
Thank you for making quality scientific videos, subscribed!
Very nice and to the point video. Very high signal to noise ratio. Even 6 years later just what I needed. How about testing the ridiculous current ratings on some ESCs.
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you for an excellent video!
Great comparisons! Can't argue with evidence!
Thank you for the tests!
Wow, those results are amazing. Thank you for showing me something I wouldn't have known. I'm a new subscriber now.
hi koset, have you become a flat earther yet?
i like it but wish you showed voltage drop along with the temp rise
Great video, wish you would do one on the new BT2.0
YES! I only need a max of 18amps for my losi micro, thank you for the review!
This was great ! Please do a XT60 video as well !
Great video, could you clarify what the material of the conductor/wire is. It looks to me like it is some kind aluminium,a tinned copper wire? It doesn't look like copper.
And could you do the same test again with a normal stranded copper wire instead of this vague "aluminium"?
Subbed : )
+ordiantakeover
Fair question, I should have specified that! We used silicon wires, rated 200°C, with multi strand, tinned copper cores. This is pretty much the only kind of wire that should be used on drones, due to how soft it is, and therefore how well it can handle vibrations. We're gonna do a separate video on our wire recommendations at some point hopefully :)
dronelab Aha thank you, I didn't know that.
Great info, thank you.
Can you do a video about the ph 2.0 and bt 2.0 connector?
Great video! Just what I wanted to see👍
Glad to hear it!
@@dronelab1280 hi, if I use this same setup for 3.5 Inch drone with auw weight almost 300gm with 2004 motor 3710kv, would it cause any problem?
@@AfafPrinceOSH The motors seem to have a max current of 33A each, so with four of them the XT30 will have a hard time at max current. But if you put a battery that can only outputs 60A, you should be fine. (Like a 1000mah 60C or 700mah 85C etc)
Great! Can't wait to see your next video.
very informative video! :) great job!
Awesome experiment, thanks.
Loved the tests, thank you.
Good video! My distrust in JST definitely confirmed! :-)
excellent info thanks for all the data especially the testing
Superb video! Hope you keep at it.
Very well done tests and video with comments. Thank you for sharing this information and showing the use of your high power test equipment. It would be great to have a summary of the test results listed in your comments so that folks can watch your video, and then be able to quickly refer back to the results for future reference. Since your video is short, adding the results in the comments would be a bonus. I look forward to more of your videos.
Can you do a video about standard deans & mini deans?
I noticed you guys tested out the XT30 and the XT60. Can you possibly test out the XT90 connectors next? Thanks for the great tests!
We're on it! Though there are 2 videos already in the pipeline before that, one of which isn't even a connector test, for a change!
Thanks for this video.
Putting this connector in my 3s losi mini b. Running a 450mah 75c drone battery. I think it'll hold 😅
One thing not mentioned is avoiding reverse connections. While TX60's are fairly difficult to plug in backwards, meaning you would hopefully realize something isn't right because you are trying to push too hard before forcing them together, the XT30's can be pushed together backwards with only a few pounds of force. Some XT60's are harder to push together than others and if you are used to the force of pushing "difficult" XT60's together, you could use the same force on XT30's without paying attention to polarity and actually get them together enough to complete a reverse connection.
Huh. I just tried that with a fresh pair of XT30-Us (the newer, “upgraded” ones) and I didn’t manage to get them to connect backwards without using tools. Maybe the revised ones are a bit better at preventing this, or maybe some wear and tear makes the reverse connection easier. I’ll try that again if I find some older or used connectors.
@@dronelab1280 It is certainly possible that some connectors are better than others. The quality of this unbranded stuff from China varies a lot. It likely helps a lot to purchase from a reputable seller who doesn't want to damage their reputation by selling bad quality ones so they test their product first.
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the tests! Any idea on 5500 connector? Came across at AliExpress. Some batteries have option for 5500 plug. Can't find any info on it.
That looks like (likely an illegitimate copy of) a two-pin Molex EconoLatch connector. They aren't that big, more similar to an XT30 than the XT60, and Molex officially rates them to only 11.5A continuously. They most certainly can handle more in a short burst, but still, I would not trust them with drone-level high currents, and would recommend staying with the Amass connectors instead.
I have been wondering if I could down size to XT30 on my 4 inch drones using 4S 850mah and 1606 motors. Sounds like I am right above the threshold of an XT30. Its really unfortunate because I'm right about the 250g limit and need to shave a few grams.
I use an xt30 on a 5 inch with 2004 motors without any issue, xt30 on a 4 inch should be plenty, just make sure your wires are thick enough.
What is the negative on a "dual core" single wire on a XT30 connector?
hay thanks for video, it help me so much. but i wanna ask something, is that safe to use xt60 on small drone like eachine 69?
XT60? Sure, you can always use a bigger connector than what what comes with the drone.
awsome, quick and very informative. Thanks.
I replaced all my JST and jst-like connectors with XT30-connectors... never regretted, will never go back to JST.
Would like to know if you run it constant at 30A with minimal airflow, will it desolder?
It will be hot (80-90°C) but it won't desolder. Make sure the wires you use tolerate such temperatures. PVC insulated wires don't, but silicone wires do.
another awesome video
Can xt30 work with 14 awg wire?? Or will it cause the solder to melt on high loads?
Great vid, more pls!
Толково рассказал и показал, молодец.
Perfect video. Thank you.
If you say "Everything you need to know" then in the video should be everything. But i don't see comparison XT30 vs XT30U vs XT30WU and etc. As well when soldering wire to the connector, you should connect male+female connectors together, to have a twice bigger area for heat dissipation so the plastic would not melt.
Very very helpfull! Thanks
Wow great video... anyway to get you to update it and test the new BETA FPV BT 2.0 connector? ;-)
They do look quite interesting indeed! I just ordered a couple and will give them a test when they arrive (as long as it won't be too cold outside, since I shouldn't run these fire-tests indoors)
@@dronelab1280 Great;-) At 0.58g the BT 2.0 is a lot lighter than the XT30. For 2S two BT 2.0 connectors are still a half gram lighter than just one XT30. The quality of the bullets used makes a difference so specs don't usually tell the whole story... can't wait to see your real world test results. Thanks... should get a lot of views as this connector has been needed for years now. Just hope the battery manufactures start using it right off and aren't too spoiled from using a crimp tool instead of soldering. The PH 2.0 is so bad I can't believe Emax used it on the Tinyhawks...
Very true, there is definitely a gap between what the PH 2.0 or the "2mm molex" can handle and the XT30. Essentially an "XT15" would be nice, and that BT 2.0 really looks like it could handle that task. We will see in a couple of weeks!
@@dronelab1280 Cool ;-) Can't wait as deciding what to build next and need light weight parts like everyone else... between the new RunCam 3 @ 1 gram without wires but better overall performance than the RCam Nano 2 and the BT 2.0 saving over a gram it's been a great new year so far for micro scale RC Aircraft with two critical parts improved and brought down in scale.
Great video. I laughed at 2:48
founded this video from reddit (phone) and tried to search this video from youtube and that was hard :D
Hey. Those XT30 doesnt look genuine. But it is the material used in the conductor that seems to be high on resistance.
We didn't get them from the most legitimate source, but they seem pretty genuine. The measured resistance matches the official AMASS datasheet within 10% (0.77mΩ vs 0.70mΩ) and we performed our test at 20A, which did cause the connector to heat up a bit above room temp and rise in resistance. We also tested the melting point of the plastic case, and since it could withstand 200C+ for a couple of seconds, we are fairly certain those are legitimate pieces. Our XT90 test was on a piece we got from a very reliable distributor, and the results both here and there were very inline with the manufacturer data. So even if this XT30 is a clone, it was made very accurately to the original specifications :)
You drew double the current through the cable recommended for the connector, then blame the information provided?
What’s a good temp for soldering the XT30 and the XT60? Thanks.
It depends a lot on your setup, but generally it's best to run hotter but for a shorter time. You do not want to let too much heat reach the nylon case before you're done soldering. Try 350°C, if the case keeps melting, go hotter and faster.
hi after 200 plug cycle
the voltage sag alot more is this common on xt30 connector？
Excellent test! Have you considered using higher temperature solder? Then redo the test, you will be able to go higher in amperage. The solder is getting hot and re flowing causing the connector to pop off. Regular solder will reflow at 220C after about 30 sec. Sn5Pb93.5Ag1.5 can go to 300C.
That is a tempting thing to try, and it would probably add a bit of current capability, or hold the same current for a bit longer. But at above 200°C, both the silicone insolation of the wire, and the nylon plastic in the connector will start to take damage. So although it's much better to slightly melt the connector or degrade the wire, than have a connection snap off, I would still recommend the same currents and limits, even with a more temperature tolerant solder. But it's definitely worth at least a test, so we'll try to schedule one with high temp solder at some point.
Hi, which connector should i use for a 1s microdrone, I'm thinking of this xt30 because of the low voltage sag but it is also heavier than a micro losi or a JST as an example. Would i feel a difference in punch if i switch from the micro losi with 22awg wire to an xt30 with 20 or even 18awg wire?
I would probably stick to the micro losi (also known as the "2.0mm molex" - we have a video on that one as well). The sag difference is 0.015V at 5A and 0.050V at 15A - microdrones usually take less than this in hover/punch respectively. This translates to about 1% power loss in hover, and 2.7% in punch.
The math behind this works as follows:
Efficiency = ( (Battery voltage - sag) / (Battery voltage) )^2
If the additional weight of the XT30 over a Losi is more than 2% of your drone, I'd recommend the lighter Losi. On a micro drone, I'd also recommend lowering your battery alarm levels to something like 3.2V per cell. Since the battery can't go out of balance, and the voltage drop at the point of measurement is more significant than for bigger drones, it's safe to push it a bit lower than the normally recommended 3.5V. Just really land as soon as you get the alarm ;)
dronelab Ok, Thank you for your Answer :)
Can you pls do this same for mpx6.
Many glider competitors use that... 3 pin + and 3pin for -
Interesting connector! We'll give it a try the next time we pull out the big power supply!
Nice.. I have used them about max 55amps.. Never tested properly. But yet have none problems...😜
Thank you for the video! Could you tell us who designed XT connectors and why they are called "XT..."? (I just learned about JST en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector)
To my understanding, it was designed by the Hong Kong company "hexTronik", with XT literarily taken from the middle of their name. It's the same company that runs the "Hobby King" store, where they are sold under the "Turnigy" brand. The connectors are produced under license (I think) by a Chinese manufacturer called Amass, and Amass sells them as well under their own company name. The "Turnigy" and "Amass" labeled connectors would both be considered "original parts", and those are the ones we recommend.
@@dronelab1280 Wow! Thank you very much for a quick reply and a lot of interesting info!
But what voltage is this testing done at? I'm looking at using these for car audio (XT30 on door speakers, with XT90 on the subwoofers).
It's a bit counter-intuitive, but the voltage doesn't actually matter - as long as it doesn't spark over. Connectors and cables are only limited by current. So as long as the door speakers take less than 30A on average (RMS), and the woofer is under 90A, you should be fine.
@@dronelab1280 That definitely works for me, then. Heck, I could run a less efficient (but better sounding) class AB amp for the door speakers and still have about 2x the wattage capacity that I'd need for each connector. Different story on the XT90, though. I'd have to stick with class D for sure or I'd be slightly underpowered bass-wise on anything with more than a front 3-way component setup, or front 2 way and rear coaxial.
Anyway, thanks for the answer! If you know of any similar connectors that can handle, say, 150-220 amps, let me know!
Wondering what the chances are of you running a test like this on BT2.0. :)
I am very much looking forward to test the BT2.0, and I already have a 10-pack of them waiting on a shelf. Unfortunately, KTH campus and its laboratories - where we perform our tests - is on COVID lockdown, so it might be a while until we can run any tests :(
@@dronelab1280 ain't it the pits.
thanks for the clip... im still a little bit confused... i got a 8a 5v power supply... i would like to power 100 led (6amp all on white) i bought xt60 connectors.. but i realiszed the cables from the led and the jjumper cables from my arduino are way to thin for the xt60... can i still solder them on there with out having problems?
You can solder a thinner wire to the XT60, but the current capacity of the entire "system" will be then limited by the wire. If your wire looks like this www.adafruit.com/product/758 , then 6A is a little too much for comfort, especially if the wire isn't getting good airflow (for example: when closed inside a box or hidden in a wall). To be safe, I'd recommend getting a 26 or even 24 AWG wire. It will still be comically thin on an XT60, but it will definitely handle 6A.
Awesome video. Subbed.
awesome video! subbed
...ok, but what are the dimensions of contact pins on male xt30 ??
2mm diameter, 5mm apart (centre to centre), 7mm long for the contact pins (inside the connector).
Awesome!! More fire plz :D
What is the soldering temperature?
When hand-soldering with an iron, there are many factors to account for when picking temperature. In case of these connectors, you want to solder them fast enough to make sure the brass contact doesn't have enough time to transfer heat to the plastic housing and damage it. So, counter intuitively you might want a higher temperature. 350C is a good starting point, but you might need a bit more on a small iron (
@@dronelab1280 i got a san tip. thanks for the advice it is a good starting point for me.!!!!
Does it work if I used it in 120 V power supply? I'm planning to use the XT60
Although the connectors are rated to withstand up to 500V as long as they are dry and clean, I can't say I would recommend it for such applications, especially if by 120V you mean AC mains. The XT series connectors do not protect from accidental touching of the conductors, so with higher voltages you risk electric shock, or accidental shorting of the device. A tiny amount of moisture might also bridge the connection. If it's a DC connection, that will never be handled by a human and won't be exposed to water, then you can use the XT30 or 60. But otherwise I would instead strongly recommend something a more protected, like a C7 plug.
@@dronelab1280 Thank you for your answer,! yes it is for a AC current supply but it's not for use as a plug directly. I'm separating the "phases" of a nema conector (drive.google.com/file/d/1M6JfIk-_ATCjchDvn8Uy_uygFmieWB6P/view?usp=sharing), and I have fuses to protect all the circuitry
is it any different than the xt30u-f?
The "U" is the "upgraded" design. It handles a bit better, and has a hole that prevents crud from accumulating but there isn't any significant difference. They are compatible - you can plug a "U" into a "non-U".
That jst connector had a snowball's chance in hell! Haha good fire and even better video
Maybe if we did the test today, it would have a "snowball-related" chance, -14°C and very windy :D
XT30 is for 15 amps (and 30 amps short peaks) and XT60 for 30 amps (60 amps short peaks). So if your ESC is over 15 amps i would use XT60...
Does anyone know the inner and outer diameters of the sockets that one would usually shove wires into?
As measured: outer 2.3mm, inner 1.3mm. +/- 0.1mm because I don't have a proper calliper on hand. An AWG18 wire fits comfortably, and an AWG16 fits just barely on the inside.
@@dronelab1280 Thank you! Every dimensional drawing I've found online somehow decided it was ok to omit that detail so I was forced to just ask around. This is so I can solder an XT30 connector to a PCB, btw.
@@cancelskawoforgivingmedlib4710 Oh! In that case you should get the PCB-mountable version. www.tme.eu/en/details/xt30upb-m/dc-power-connectors/amass/
This one has full (not hollow) pins, and they are properly dimensioned in the datasheet (1.6mm). There is also a horizontal version with extra mounting pins www.tme.eu/en/details/xt30pw-m/dc-power-connectors/amass/
"Majesticly desolders" 😂
How does it compare to a Dean's?
We briefly compare the Dean's to an XT60, in our XT60 video, as they are much more similar in size. The Dean's can carry much more current than the XT30 here(150A burst vs 60A on the XT30) but for that it needs a thicker wire (12 AWG vs 16-18 AWG) and the connector itself is significantly heavier (~4.4g vs 1.6g). Interestingly enough, the Deans has a slightly higher contact resistance than the XT30 (1.9 vs 1.6 mΩ), but its extra mass and surface area helps it survive short bursts of current. For continuous loads, the advantage isn't that big (50A on the t-deans, 30A on the XT30).
thank's perfect ;)
How is it possible to to send "CURRENT" through without a voltage? My school thought me that any current measured is pointless without knowing the voltage at the current flow. Can someone explain? [ EDIT: I found out myself - Yes, it matters and matters not - A) Cable will burn before B) Hobby voltage is assumed C) Connector will sustain 300W ]
In a real scenario, the current flowing through the connector causes some voltage drop, and the power of that is what is melting the connector. The voltage delivered to the actual load behind the connector does not matter, as that power is not dissipated on the connector.
In our tests we get the connectors to melt at voltages as low as 0.1v. Only the current matters.
Awww. I was expecting a fujifilm camera :(
i seen xt30 with falling and freespining pins. Stopped using them even for a small loads.
How much xt30u is better than xt30?
The difference is only in the plastic case, the brass contacts remained unchanged. The new shape should be a little easier to handle, and possibly less prone mechanical wear, as the edges are now rounded, and the long side wall is reinforced. Electrical performance should be the same. Our tests were done on the XT30U's, at this point it's almost difficult to find an "old" XT30. A lot of retailers just call them "XT30" even if they are the upgraded model.
dronelab thanks for quick reply.
So correct me if I wrong, they are interchangeable?
Yes, they are interchangeable and compatible with each other both ways. Though I would expect a connection between an upgraded one and and old one to have the worst mechanical properties, because of the slightly mismatched shapes but it will fit and conduct electricity just fine.
that jst tho!
You discredited the mini deans by an assumption that they couldn't handle the rated amps... I can tell you they absolutely can handle 30A without getting hot. All the people saying this is a good video are completely gullible to your foolish statements. Why don't you do some real testing instead of acting like an authority?
Not sure what you are referring to here. We don't even mention the mini deans. We compare the XT30 to the JST here, and for that comparison of course we did proper testing. I wouldn't say we act as an authority, in fact, the only thing we do here is tests, and show the results. We might try this "mini deans", but as it's not particularily popular, I doubt if many people will be interested in such a test. Unless you mean the classic "t-deans", which of course we tested extensively, but we wouldn't compare it to the XT30, as its much heavier. (3x) We did compare it to the XT60 though, in that video.
Great info, Thank you!