Awesome video! I was hoping someone would do this one day. There is so much confusion out there on when to run what connector and this helps clear that up. AMain products, customer service and videos are awesome!
You make the most excellent sets of videos. They are practical, to the point, and so informative. I am looking to get back into the hobby after 30 years. Your instructive videos are so helpful. Thank you for doing this!
Started using the old Traxxas connector (because I got a Merv), they're easy to work with so I'll be sticking with them. Even made plug to power arduino from my rc batteries.
How has your experience been with disconnecting the connectors? Some people seem to have problems disconnecting the plugs because the parts catch too strongly for their taste.
Every charger should include adapters, so regardless of which vehicle or battery you are running, you can just apply the proper connector. My Spectrum smart 150 came with a few.
I use a lot of XT60 and XT90 connectors. It carried over from flying FPV quads and I just have a lot of batteries with the connector already on them. It's easier to chop off one ESC connector and solder on a XT connector than it is to change all the connectors on the batteries. As I start replacing batteries I'm sure the connector will migrate over to the EC and IC versions also.
For batteries with fixed wiring it's bullets all the way. Male for negative, female for positive (or the other way around, you do you). Impossible to plug in backwards and very easy to wire multiple packs in series.
My faves are xt60’s for 1/10, and xt90’s for 1/8 and bigger... Both inexpensive and very high quality in addition easy to solder... The ic5’s are the devil, they’re so expensive! Was $25 for two pairs when 5 pairs of xt90’s are $9 🤷♂️
I vowed that when I buy my next round of batteries I am converting all of my rc stuff over to the 35 Amp Anderson power pole connectors. If I would need more amperage I will just double them up. I use Andersons on many other projects and wish I would have know of them when I first got into rc cars.
Im a radio guy so I love Andersons! But you lose the water resistance. I have 100s of them and they are easy to use. I'm just reluctant as my kid can't seem to keep them out of the water or the grass is way more wet than you'd expect... Not saying all these are water resistant but the Traxxas ones my kid as are pretty good. In radio sometimes tape and silicon is enough even with we are in flood zones... But these RCs run fast and hit hard, that would last long...
@@itchyprince3793 Easier to disconnect and connect, if something goes wrong, just a simple pull on the wire, no fiddling around with the connector. And possibly weight reduction lol. But you have to be careful with them.
Useful video, thank you. I just acquired a bunch of QS8 connectors for 8S surface vehicles I have (Limitless, Typhon) to ensure the power isn't pinched by the resistance of the EC5 connectors I have currently installed; fitting on the couple of Mamba Monster X 8S purchased from Amain. Looking forward to the weekend. Thanks again.
Yeah nahh I'm just sticking to the ID Traxxas system I'm relatively new to the hobby. Don't feel like soddering new plugs or switching the power system. If something fails I'll just buy another Traxxas thing, as its just stupid simple to set up and power up.
They have a lifetime warranty too, when they die you can call up TRAXXAS, send them in and get a brand new battery half off their listed price too! I just replaced a few last month, it’s awesome!
I switch over to XT150 after watching Aussie RC Playground. I love the idea that the bullets are big and can handle up to 150 amps but also that they don't require adaptors when you want to connect batteries in series. Since they can split up you can attach then in series as much as you like :) I had to do this when one of my battery manufacturer Deans connector just came off while bashing on a hot day, almost gave me a heart attack and I decided never to opt for smaller connectors. ruclips.net/video/D4oltPESvhU/видео.html
BRET YOU ARE VERY SMOOTH WITH YOUR PRESENTATIONS NOT LIKE SOME GUYS THAT TALK SO FAST YOU CANT UNDERSTAND THEM THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT BUT MOST FOLKS DONT. NUFF SAID "KUDOS" BRET
Traxxas ID, are junk. Very few people use those. Is just another way for Traxxas to overcharge you for their stuff. Just clip those ESC connectors off, and install whichever other connectors you prefer. Amain Hobbies, you forgot to mention EC8 connectors. Those are just like their smaller cousins, but larger. Those are 8mm connectors. I mainly use those in my cars. They are capable of 200 amps plus.
Remember, the number of series cells allowed for each connector is not really a concern. You could put a 1s pack on an XT90 or IC5 and a 10S pack on an XT30 or similar class connector. The voltage does not matter that much as long as it's low enough that it's considered a "low" or "safe" voltage (usually 48 volts or less on most regions). This is so you don't need to be an electrician to legally wire these... however, you would still want to be wary of using a 10S pack because ~40 Volts can drive a LOT of current if it shorts or something causes an arc... which would be very bad. Hence a disconnect on the pack itself that physically cuts the wiring between each cell or at least between half the cells and the other half is needed in case of catastrophic failure above anything more than ~20 volts... not required legally (at least here), but is smart for safety. However, the factor that does change which connector to use is the current draw average. Using the XT connectors for convenience (logic applies to the IC3/5, deans/T, and any other connector). See the XT60 is rated to 30 or 60 amps depending on solder job and who you ask. This is due to the low (but non-zero) resistance of the XT60 connector and the limited wire size that can reasonably fit the solder joint. The XT90 and other similar class connectors can do more current because they have room for thicker wires and have more surface area for the connection, thus a lower (but non-zero) resistance in the connector. These resistances drop voltage and thus generate waste heat. The waste heat will cause the connector to heat up (duh)... leading to meltage and bad things. The reason you could pull 100 amps through an XT30 or other similar sized connector and get away with is has to do with how and why they fail. If you overload a connector or wire, it does not fail in an instant, it fails because the power loss causes heat, the heat build up faster than it can be dissipated and melts/burns things. So if you have a VERY brief >100 amp spike (like the initial inrush current to charge the capacitors on an ESC), the connector will be fine because the current drops back to nearly 0 and then you start racing. The average current then stay below the maximum rated current and all is well. In colder climates, you can get away with more current because the cold air will cool the connector and wiring faster which allows for a higher temperature rise over ambient before melting point is reached and also means that the heat is taken away faster so a higher power loss is needed to actually get that hot anyway. You also have to account for the fact that most models can't draw max current all the time anyway as the power needed to say hover a drone is much lower than max power. A drone at max power would shoot straight up and deplete the battery in seconds... hence even if the drone pulls 100A it might still use a 60A connector like the XT60 since the average power over any given ~5 (ish) second span might be closer to 20 amps even if it yanks 150 amps for a split second, then 100A for a second more as it spins up. This is why they make slow blowing fuses and breakers since some gizmos draw HUGE currents to start up and then lower their draw to something reasonable. The same idea as inductive loads on AC circuits, notice how your lights might flicker or other devices on a circuit might flicker when a large motor kicks on (like a fridge, air conditioner, or a power tool)? It's because the initial spike of current is absolutely massive, like way way more than the wiring can handle, but only for a few fractions of a second so the wiring is in no danger.
You could have just said current is more important than voltage and that's with they are rated for amperage and not voltage. They market toward voltage, which is wrong. I don't know much about RC, I'm a radio guy. Our connectors are rated and marketed appropriately. I have no idea what these RCs are pulling but It seems looking at the C-ratings on these packs they aren't pulling much for long. The most likely failure looks like it'd be in the battery. I can't believe RCs that are given to kids aren't running something safer than LIPOs.
@@echo-hotel Yeah but some people might require the blow by blow since they do not understand current vs voltage. Also they use LiPO packs because of power to weight. LiPOs use a variant of Lithium Ion battery that is good at high current (maybe NMC/LiMnNi-Something?), and since they are in a polymer pouch, it makes them tabless for lower ohmic losses and the polymer pouches make them lighter and not cylindrical. The downside is that they are not as physically robust as 18650 or other metal canister Lithium ion cells, and the high power output and high capacity Lithium Ion variants used in LiPOs are also very unstable compared to NiMH or even Lithium Iron Phosphate or even the VERY high power Lithium Titanate... despite Lithium Titanate being much safer and able to still deliver respectable current. Sadly, in the quest for MOAR POWER, safety and stability and even things like physically robust cells are thrown aside. Similar to phone and laptop batteries. They are also LiPO, but are actually the higher energy, lower power LCO (Lithium Cobalt Oxide) type which is even more volatile than RC LiPOs. They use them for their ability to be made in any shape because polymer pouch cells just can be made any shape you want, and they also have no metal canister which makes them slightly lighter, and since they are often a custom size... good luck finding replacement cells WHEN not if they wear out.
Easy to understand and an informative video. I do have a quick question - in a e-buggy/e - truggy which uses 4s power. What’s issues/problems would you come across if you used a deans connector? I know in the video you said that the connector may get warm if it can’t provide enough current.
If you use a Deans/T-Style connector in an overloaded application, the connector will heat up, potentially melting the plastic, and potentially catching fire. This is true for any connector that is overloaded with more power than it is designed to sustain, R/C or not. -Brett
Never going T-plugs unless its a brushed system or 2s lipo max. Melted my T-plugs on 4s until both polarities joined and burnt a $120 ESC. Thanks for the video!
At the 4:10 mark you changed from holding a female IC3 to matching up a male IC3 to mate with a female EC3. I was watching the video to figure out if it is the MALE or FEMALE IC connector that has the metal probe between the power bullets. And that switch confused me. It went from having the probe in the female conn to not having a probe in the male IC3. It was a quick change switcharoo that almost caught me.
Hey bud! I'm looking to eventually upgrade my battery and charging system to the new spektrum smart tech. I'm going to be using the IC5/EC5 for everything from my 2s packs up to 6s and I'm wondering if the larger IC/EC5 connectors would be overkill on the smaller 2s packs? What i'm trying to ask is if the smaller IC/EC3 would be more efficient with lower voltage for some reason? Probably a simply dumb question but i'm no electric wiz lol
Hey Brett! What would you say about putting Traxxas connector on Hobbywing Max8 ESC? I like Тraxxas connectors and the chargers. Not sure if using 2 x Traxxas 3s LiPos for Erevo 2.0 would be good with Hobbywing Max 8 combo 2200kV. Appreciate your knowledge and always coming back to reply :) Take care!
Dam traxxas connecters lol I’m a ready to run Erevo brushless noob I bought it and yes I have spent the same amount again upgrading the dam thing . First issue the connecters for the lypo’s grrrr . Thanks for this vid I assume it’s directed at me so thank you .
Would it be wise to get a connector with an amperage rating at least equal to your ESC’s continuous amp rating? I’m looking at a Hobbywing XeRun XR8 Plus (rated at 150 amps continuous) to hook up with a Hobbywing 3660 G2 3600KV motor (in a fully sensored setup)... the connector I’m looking at is the XT90 and batteries I’m looking at are a couple from Gens Ace (a 2s 7200mah 70C continuous but I’ll be using a lead I’ll leave on it all the time for use... and other pack is a 3s 7000mah 60C continuous)... the vehicle is a Tekno RC 410.3 SCT... any extra help and tips I’d really appreciate as this is gonna be my first in many things (sct, kit build, brushless, and surface LiPo... I’ve used LiPo flying and I know how to handle it and treat it safely)... you guys rock!
Isogen I totally agree! But what other connectors would be fine? I looked at some made by RCProPlus (I think that is the name/brand... the S6 series but I cannot remember exactly, but I do know they’re basically big individually sheathed bullet connectors... rated at 270 or 340 amps continuous.. they’re really tight fitting for helicopter and extreme stunt applications, and also large size for huge wire and big power power hungry systems)
RCProPlus is a great option. We've stock all their connectors and have used tons of them without any issue, and they always perform better than expected, although they are expensive. -Brett
AMain Hobbies in my instance.. which would you use? The Tekno RC 410.3 SCT is 1/10 scale but barely as it can use and handle 1/8 scale power systems and some of the physical hardware is 1/8 scale tech (in particular.. the big bore 16mm shocks, and 3 fluid filled tunable gear differentials .. along with the entire driveline, which also is pretty much 1/8 scale)... and I hear that working with 1/8 scale hardware is harder to put in a smaller model BUT the stuff is made better and easier to build with due it being larger... thanks Brett!
@@TraxxasGemini3.3 Shoot man, there are a lot of options with the various styles but maybe the Pro D5 or Pro D6? Here are the D6: www.amainhobbies.com/rcproplus-prod6-supra-x-battery-connector-4-sets-810awg-rppreb6808prod6p8/p298526 The D5 are only 100A continuous so the D6 may be better for you. -Brett
For vehicles, it really comes down to directly soldering them or if the ESC has silicone sheathed bullets, using those. Most people don't use any connector beyond that to avoid as much resistance and heat as possible. -Brett
Traxxas plugs are superior to all these. SMC did an ohm comparison test on every type out there and the Traxxas unit did the best. Not only that, they don't get sticky or hard to plug or disconnect like all the other do. Consider this.
IMHO the new IC3/5 connectors font have plastics as temp resistant as XT60/90. I melted my first IC5. Never melted a XT90 connector. Plus the anti sparking version makes them the choice for people who can solder easily.
I have a 4x4 slash that I modded into a speed demon. Installed a hobbywing max 8 with two 3s 7600 mah 75c batteries. Using xt60 connectors. Not noticing any problems. Should I chenge up to the xt90's ? And why?
You might get a little more speed with the extra efficiency from the larger XT90. No promises on extra speed, but power will definitely be more efficient when you squeeze the throttle to 100% for extended periods of time. -Brett
I really like to solder EC5, because you can go with a lot of heat to the gold pins. XT90 are easily moving when the plastic is getting to hot. But getting the gold pins into the blue plastic of the EC5 is a nightmare, any tips here to get them easy in and out?
Can I just say that the ic3 in my experience are harder to solder because if they get too hot the plastic melts and the connectors float inside the plastic. Where as the ec3 you can solder them first and then push them into the plastic so you don’t risk melting the plastic.
I use the adapters from fracas to SC5. Too lazy to put new ends on my X maxx and don’t wanna void the warranty, lol. It’s just as fast as my buddies and I can run it for 40 mins with My 9000 4s batteries.
Hey Brett. Great video except you didn't say which connector was easiest to plug and unplug. I have limited dexterity and strength and have a hard time with most connectors. I have a savage flux 6s and would like a good connector that's easy to plug in. What do you suggest??
Hmm, that's a tough one. I don't really remember any connector be noticeably easier than the other, and the connector tolerances can vary depending on the who made them. But I'd say your best bet is the XT90 made by AMass, they're pretty smooth. If it's amass, it will say on one side of the plastic housing; kind of like you can see on these blue ones: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-4.5mm-trucurrent-xt90-polarized-connectors-2-male-2-female-ptk-5039/p232391 Hope that helps Mikey. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yes i talked with matt @ amain before he was going to get them setup with you guys . Here is a direct link to buy bulk www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs8-anti Everyone running high voltage setups, xmaxx, dbxl ,5ive, limitless on all the forums this is all they use now they are awesome. Have a good one
Yeah, converting two different connectors into only one is not only convenient, but a great way to prevent user error and accidents. In some ways, it's the best connector ever made, except for having to buy Traxxas batteries and chargers. -Brett
AMain Hobbies is just one of the many things they’ve done for the hobby over the years to get new people into it! Ten years ago you’d never want a new person getting lipo batteries but now you explain a few things and they’ve got it, it’s great!
They also are trash battery's meh electronics just rebrand overpriced sensorless castle escs and motors. And the connectors don't allow for much current given there size.
@@AMain_Hobbies I was just a bit nervous as I use ec5 and people say they are one of the hardest to solder and I am new to soldering but would like to change the connector on a battery
rc guy well I have a brushless motor that draws 70+ amps and I’m using only a 60amp brushless esc and I am running 1/10. Would an 80a esc be good or should I go up to 100 or higher?
Picking up an 80A or 100A ESC would be a good idea to have a little head room, and so your ESC isn't working at 100% all the time. The easier your ESC & motor works, the longer they will last. -Brett
I have all traxxas batteries and chargers but I’m getting the aeroscout plane which comes with I think ic3 connectors. Can I put traxxas connectors on it?
Just changed to ec5 connectors for my Summit. What are your thoughts about adapters for chargers? My Traxxas batteries have ec5 connectors but I only have the Traxxas ez peak charger
What did you do with the balance wires on the battery? If these were Traxxas iD Batteries, the balance connector is integrated into the iD connector. If you are not using the balance wires to balance charge, you are at great risk and should discontinue using those batteries immediately! -Brett
What about the adapters that don't have wires? I understand that using the wired type for charging is ok but using the wireless plug type adapters is for running in the vehicle?
Can I use larger connectors on smaller batteries strictly for the sake of having one smart charger, and all the vehicles in my fleet having the same connection? Main example would be just putting XT90 or IC5 on the 800mah 2s Lipos that I have in my brushless mini T. I know it’s beyond overkill but I’m ocd like that
Oooooorrrr you can just buy a set of adapters and put whatever battery you buy in it. Just make sure you get a quality one so that you don’t have resistance built into it. I always try to match the wire thickness
Awesome video! I was hoping someone would do this one day. There is so much confusion out there on when to run what connector and this helps clear that up. AMain products, customer service and videos are awesome!
You make the most excellent sets of videos. They are practical, to the point, and so informative. I am looking to get back into the hobby after 30 years. Your instructive videos are so helpful. Thank you for doing this!
Terrific! Happy to hear the videos are helpful, but mostly, that you want to get back into r/c! We need more people like you sir. Enjoy!
-Brett
I primarily use Traxxas ID connectors because of the batteries that I own.
Same
I use deans on lipo, sparky
yep I have all traxxas connectors, but would like to switch over to xt90s. Just to lazy
Started using the old Traxxas connector (because I got a Merv), they're easy to work with so I'll be sticking with them. Even made plug to power arduino from my rc batteries.
@@reesespeanutbuttercups5548 it makes quite a pop with large LiPos... I remember when I was younger it scared the crap out of me.
Thanks for the info... purchased through your site. I watch you videos with my son and I appreciate your strait forward family friendly manner.
Awesome! Thank you.
-Brett
Me using Tamiya plug "Heavily breathes"
Lmfao 🤣🤣🤣
I used a tamiya plug for year then I got a deans plug car and it changed my life
I'm just getting back into the Hobby, my old car still uses that plug and nimh battery. Thinking of converting it to lipo
@@sketchyboiproductions7996 what changed ?
@@lukesworld2864 switch the connector Tamiya isn't good against heat
FINALLY convinced myself to go XT60s...
Thank you! I bought 2 trucks from your shop, TRX4 and Vaterra Chevrolet Blazer Ascender
Awesome, enjoy!
-Brett
I use mostly xt 30/60/90 connectors , and i think xt connectors is the best.👍
How has your experience been with disconnecting the connectors? Some people seem to have problems disconnecting the plugs because the parts catch too strongly for their taste.
@@MikkoRantalainen Everything is fine with XT60 and XT90, but XT30 is sometimes difficult to disconnect, it depends on the manufacturer.
I just ordered the 1970 chevelle ss silver indoor with 2s lipo can't wait to get it on monday....n it all started seeing ur chevelle video
Awesome man. That's a fun, easy-to-use platform. Enjoy.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks man ill b having it on the channel
This/All these videos helped a lot, I just ordered form yall and it was fast shipping Thank you soooo much!!!!(Also really well packageing):D
For me, I use the xt60 for my crawlers & xt90 for my bashers
Every charger should include adapters, so regardless of which vehicle or battery you are running, you can just apply the proper connector. My Spectrum smart 150 came with a few.
Always ran DEANS. Work perfect and never failed me
100000%
So hard to solder. Tried twice before getting it. Used xt60 now and it's easier to solder
Good overview. I had a plan of switching out all my deans for the EC5 ... but got stock ... so much soldering work ... 🙂
This is a lot of great info and is really appreciated. Thank you
I use a lot of XT60 and XT90 connectors. It carried over from flying FPV quads and I just have a lot of batteries with the connector already on them. It's easier to chop off one ESC connector and solder on a XT connector than it is to change all the connectors on the batteries. As I start replacing batteries I'm sure the connector will migrate over to the EC and IC versions also.
For batteries with fixed wiring it's bullets all the way. Male for negative, female for positive (or the other way around, you do you). Impossible to plug in backwards and very easy to wire multiple packs in series.
2:31 ahh I’ve don’t that was to many times, the sound of the esc going haunts me to this day
I know what you mean man. You're heart sinks and then you can't believe what you've done. Sucks. Good lesson to learn though.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies hahaha yes it is
Always great info, Amain helps so much...love the content...👍👍
My faves are xt60’s for 1/10, and xt90’s for 1/8 and bigger... Both inexpensive and very high quality in addition easy to solder... The ic5’s are the devil, they’re so expensive! Was $25 for two pairs when 5 pairs of xt90’s are $9 🤷♂️
Nice rundown of connectors, good job! 👍
I love traxxas connectors I put them on all my esc and batteries I just really like how snug they feel even after tons of use 👍💯
They really have a constant "press feel", if you understand what I mean. 😉
@@RC-ty5ym yessir 💪
Do you think if I get an Arma infraction I could put traxxas connectors on it and use traxxas battery’s?
Xt90 is my go to. Got fed up with the deans connector getting stuck. Xt90s have good grip so you don’t have to pull on the wire
Good info on the different types of connectors and their applications
Ec5 and ic5 are my preferred connector. They never come apart for me. Least favorite are Trx
I’m team Deans for life 100%!!!!
XT60s and XT90s for me!
have used deans for on ground vehicles, and xt60 for my drones.
I vowed that when I buy my next round of batteries I am converting all of my rc stuff over to the 35 Amp Anderson power pole connectors. If I would need more amperage I will just double them up. I use Andersons on many other projects and wish I would have know of them when I first got into rc cars.
Im a radio guy so I love Andersons! But you lose the water resistance. I have 100s of them and they are easy to use. I'm just reluctant as my kid can't seem to keep them out of the water or the grass is way more wet than you'd expect...
Not saying all these are water resistant but the Traxxas ones my kid as are pretty good. In radio sometimes tape and silicon is enough even with we are in flood zones... But these RCs run fast and hit hard, that would last long...
I like the traxxas connector.
Nice vid mate, xt90 for my bashers and bullets for my racers!! 😊🤙🇦🇺🍻
What is the advantage of bullet connectors? Just curious.
@@itchyprince3793 Easier to disconnect and connect, if something goes wrong, just a simple pull on the wire, no fiddling around with the connector. And possibly weight reduction lol. But you have to be careful with them.
@@orange1248 ok thank you!
xt60 and xt90 for me, did use ec5 but assembly easier on xt and xt now come with covers to hide the soldering.
I'm runnin the EC5 connections really rugged
Just swapped over all my stuff to ec5.
Hi thanks for the helpful video 🙂
Useful video, thank you. I just acquired a bunch of QS8 connectors for 8S surface vehicles I have (Limitless, Typhon) to ensure the power isn't pinched by the resistance of the EC5 connectors I have currently installed; fitting on the couple of Mamba Monster X 8S purchased from Amain. Looking forward to the weekend. Thanks again.
great video Bret, thanks
For me the EC... connectors are the most easy to saughter. EC5 is King for me
Yeah nahh I'm just sticking to the ID Traxxas system I'm relatively new to the hobby. Don't feel like soddering new plugs or switching the power system. If something fails I'll just buy another Traxxas thing, as its just stupid simple to set up and power up.
@20Ian Jury and they are only rated for 25c.
They have a lifetime warranty too, when they die you can call up TRAXXAS, send them in and get a brand new battery half off their listed price too! I just replaced a few last month, it’s awesome!
@@mikes062 There you go, Traxxas all the way for me.
FC's The Meme Yup!
@@fcsthememe7987 Traxxas is shit!
They left competition just because the "pressure was to high"...
XT90 all the way
All my old school vehicles were switched from Tamiya plugs to Anderson Power Pole connectors. Guess it's time to bust out the soldering iron.
Thanks for the information. I'm a newb to the hobby.
Very well explained...thank you as i really needed all that info :))))
very informative for me, thanks Mr. Brad
Perfection in explanation.
I honestly like the Traxxas connectors they had before they made the ID connector
i wanna see the part 6 of the b6.2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nice vid
I use dean's t plug, my rc's that I have and have ordered come with them lol never soldered one
I switch over to XT150 after watching Aussie RC Playground.
I love the idea that the bullets are big and can handle up to 150 amps but also that they don't require adaptors when you want to connect batteries in series.
Since they can split up you can attach then in series as much as you like :)
I had to do this when one of my battery manufacturer Deans connector just came off while bashing on a hot day, almost gave me a heart attack and I decided never to opt for smaller connectors.
ruclips.net/video/D4oltPESvhU/видео.html
LoL. I maltet a deans connector one week ago at minus 5 degrees on only 3s lipo.
BRET YOU ARE VERY SMOOTH WITH YOUR PRESENTATIONS NOT LIKE SOME GUYS THAT TALK SO FAST YOU CANT UNDERSTAND THEM THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT BUT MOST FOLKS DONT. NUFF SAID "KUDOS" BRET
XT90 for me for my 4s-8s vehicles 👍
Traxxas ID, are junk. Very few people use those. Is just another way for Traxxas to overcharge you for their stuff. Just clip those ESC connectors off, and install whichever other connectors you prefer. Amain Hobbies, you forgot to mention EC8 connectors. Those are just like their smaller cousins, but larger. Those are 8mm connectors. I mainly use those in my cars. They are capable of 200 amps plus.
Remember, the number of series cells allowed for each connector is not really a concern. You could put a 1s pack on an XT90 or IC5 and a 10S pack on an XT30 or similar class connector. The voltage does not matter that much as long as it's low enough that it's considered a "low" or "safe" voltage (usually 48 volts or less on most regions). This is so you don't need to be an electrician to legally wire these... however, you would still want to be wary of using a 10S pack because ~40 Volts can drive a LOT of current if it shorts or something causes an arc... which would be very bad. Hence a disconnect on the pack itself that physically cuts the wiring between each cell or at least between half the cells and the other half is needed in case of catastrophic failure above anything more than ~20 volts... not required legally (at least here), but is smart for safety.
However, the factor that does change which connector to use is the current draw average. Using the XT connectors for convenience (logic applies to the IC3/5, deans/T, and any other connector). See the XT60 is rated to 30 or 60 amps depending on solder job and who you ask. This is due to the low (but non-zero) resistance of the XT60 connector and the limited wire size that can reasonably fit the solder joint. The XT90 and other similar class connectors can do more current because they have room for thicker wires and have more surface area for the connection, thus a lower (but non-zero) resistance in the connector. These resistances drop voltage and thus generate waste heat. The waste heat will cause the connector to heat up (duh)... leading to meltage and bad things.
The reason you could pull 100 amps through an XT30 or other similar sized connector and get away with is has to do with how and why they fail. If you overload a connector or wire, it does not fail in an instant, it fails because the power loss causes heat, the heat build up faster than it can be dissipated and melts/burns things. So if you have a VERY brief >100 amp spike (like the initial inrush current to charge the capacitors on an ESC), the connector will be fine because the current drops back to nearly 0 and then you start racing. The average current then stay below the maximum rated current and all is well.
In colder climates, you can get away with more current because the cold air will cool the connector and wiring faster which allows for a higher temperature rise over ambient before melting point is reached and also means that the heat is taken away faster so a higher power loss is needed to actually get that hot anyway. You also have to account for the fact that most models can't draw max current all the time anyway as the power needed to say hover a drone is much lower than max power. A drone at max power would shoot straight up and deplete the battery in seconds... hence even if the drone pulls 100A it might still use a 60A connector like the XT60 since the average power over any given ~5 (ish) second span might be closer to 20 amps even if it yanks 150 amps for a split second, then 100A for a second more as it spins up. This is why they make slow blowing fuses and breakers since some gizmos draw HUGE currents to start up and then lower their draw to something reasonable. The same idea as inductive loads on AC circuits, notice how your lights might flicker or other devices on a circuit might flicker when a large motor kicks on (like a fridge, air conditioner, or a power tool)? It's because the initial spike of current is absolutely massive, like way way more than the wiring can handle, but only for a few fractions of a second so the wiring is in no danger.
You could have just said current is more important than voltage and that's with they are rated for amperage and not voltage. They market toward voltage, which is wrong.
I don't know much about RC, I'm a radio guy. Our connectors are rated and marketed appropriately. I have no idea what these RCs are pulling but It seems looking at the C-ratings on these packs they aren't pulling much for long. The most likely failure looks like it'd be in the battery. I can't believe RCs that are given to kids aren't running something safer than LIPOs.
@@echo-hotel Yeah but some people might require the blow by blow since they do not understand current vs voltage. Also they use LiPO packs because of power to weight. LiPOs use a variant of Lithium Ion battery that is good at high current (maybe NMC/LiMnNi-Something?), and since they are in a polymer pouch, it makes them tabless for lower ohmic losses and the polymer pouches make them lighter and not cylindrical.
The downside is that they are not as physically robust as 18650 or other metal canister Lithium ion cells, and the high power output and high capacity Lithium Ion variants used in LiPOs are also very unstable compared to NiMH or even Lithium Iron Phosphate or even the VERY high power Lithium Titanate... despite Lithium Titanate being much safer and able to still deliver respectable current.
Sadly, in the quest for MOAR POWER, safety and stability and even things like physically robust cells are thrown aside. Similar to phone and laptop batteries. They are also LiPO, but are actually the higher energy, lower power LCO (Lithium Cobalt Oxide) type which is even more volatile than RC LiPOs. They use them for their ability to be made in any shape because polymer pouch cells just can be made any shape you want, and they also have no metal canister which makes them slightly lighter, and since they are often a custom size... good luck finding replacement cells WHEN not if they wear out.
great information, thanks AMain!
Easy to understand and an informative video.
I do have a quick question - in a e-buggy/e - truggy which uses 4s power. What’s issues/problems would you come across if you used a deans connector? I know in the video you said that the connector may get warm if it can’t provide enough current.
If you use a Deans/T-Style connector in an overloaded application, the connector will heat up, potentially melting the plastic, and potentially catching fire. This is true for any connector that is overloaded with more power than it is designed to sustain, R/C or not.
-Brett
Never going T-plugs unless its a brushed system or 2s lipo max. Melted my T-plugs on 4s until both polarities joined and burnt a $120 ESC. Thanks for the video!
Very informative. Thank you.
At the 4:10 mark you changed from holding a female IC3 to matching up a male IC3 to mate with a female EC3. I was watching the video to figure out if it is the MALE or FEMALE IC connector that has the metal probe between the power bullets. And that switch confused me. It went from having the probe in the female conn to not having a probe in the male IC3. It was a quick change switcharoo that almost caught me.
Did you find your answer on the connector? I believe it's the female side on the battery that has the metal probe.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Yes, it is on the female battery connector. Thanks.
Hey bud! I'm looking to eventually upgrade my battery and charging system to the new spektrum smart tech. I'm going to be using the IC5/EC5 for everything from my 2s packs up to 6s and I'm wondering if the larger IC/EC5 connectors would be overkill on the smaller 2s packs? What i'm trying to ask is if the smaller IC/EC3 would be more efficient with lower voltage for some reason? Probably a simply dumb question but i'm no electric wiz lol
I wish you would’ve gotten a answer because I’m scrolling these comments with the exact same question.
This is super helpful
Thanks again! So helpful
Hey Brett!
What would you say about putting Traxxas connector on Hobbywing Max8 ESC? I like Тraxxas connectors and the chargers. Not sure if using 2 x Traxxas 3s LiPos for Erevo 2.0 would be good with Hobbywing Max 8 combo 2200kV. Appreciate your knowledge and always coming back to reply :) Take care!
Yeah, that should work without issue.
-Brett
Dam traxxas connecters lol I’m a ready to run Erevo brushless noob I bought it and yes I have spent the same amount again upgrading the dam thing . First issue the connecters for the lypo’s grrrr . Thanks for this vid I assume it’s directed at me so thank you .
Would it be wise to get a connector with an amperage rating at least equal to your ESC’s continuous amp rating? I’m looking at a Hobbywing XeRun XR8 Plus (rated at 150 amps continuous) to hook up with a Hobbywing 3660 G2 3600KV motor (in a fully sensored setup)... the connector I’m looking at is the XT90 and batteries I’m looking at are a couple from Gens Ace (a 2s 7200mah 70C continuous but I’ll be using a lead I’ll leave on it all the time for use... and other pack is a 3s 7000mah 60C continuous)... the vehicle is a Tekno RC 410.3 SCT... any extra help and tips I’d really appreciate as this is gonna be my first in many things (sct, kit build, brushless, and surface LiPo... I’ve used LiPo flying and I know how to handle it and treat it safely)... you guys rock!
XT150s if you're going with that setup. A bit overkill, but better to have overrated connectors.
Isogen I totally agree! But what other connectors would be fine? I looked at some made by RCProPlus (I think that is the name/brand... the S6 series but I cannot remember exactly, but I do know they’re basically big individually sheathed bullet connectors... rated at 270 or 340 amps continuous.. they’re really tight fitting for helicopter and extreme stunt applications, and also large size for huge wire and big power power hungry systems)
RCProPlus is a great option. We've stock all their connectors and have used tons of them without any issue, and they always perform better than expected, although they are expensive.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies in my instance.. which would you use? The Tekno RC 410.3 SCT is 1/10 scale but barely as it can use and handle 1/8 scale power systems and some of the physical hardware is 1/8 scale tech (in particular.. the big bore 16mm shocks, and 3 fluid filled tunable gear differentials .. along with the entire driveline, which also is pretty much 1/8 scale)... and I hear that working with 1/8 scale hardware is harder to put in a smaller model BUT the stuff is made better and easier to build with due it being larger... thanks Brett!
@@TraxxasGemini3.3 Shoot man, there are a lot of options with the various styles but maybe the Pro D5 or Pro D6? Here are the D6: www.amainhobbies.com/rcproplus-prod6-supra-x-battery-connector-4-sets-810awg-rppreb6808prod6p8/p298526
The D5 are only 100A continuous so the D6 may be better for you.
-Brett
Excellent ,,good important information 💖👍👍
Hey Brett what about motor connectors? Is that your next video? Txs...
For vehicles, it really comes down to directly soldering them or if the ESC has silicone sheathed bullets, using those. Most people don't use any connector beyond that to avoid as much resistance and heat as possible.
-Brett
Can you do the best plugs for drag racing on the drag slash, dr10 and other drag race builds for 2s
Learning! Thanks!
This is so helpful tnx 👍🏾
Traxxas plugs are superior to all these. SMC did an ohm comparison test on every type out there and the Traxxas unit did the best. Not only that, they don't get sticky or hard to plug or disconnect like all the other do. Consider this.
Ugh . Worst fkg connectors ever !!!!
IMHO the new IC3/5 connectors font have plastics as temp resistant as XT60/90. I melted my first IC5. Never melted a XT90 connector. Plus the anti sparking version makes them the choice for people who can solder easily.
What about 5mil bullets?
I have a 4x4 slash that I modded into a speed demon. Installed a hobbywing max 8 with two 3s 7600 mah 75c batteries. Using xt60 connectors. Not noticing any problems. Should I chenge up to the xt90's ? And why?
You might get a little more speed with the extra efficiency from the larger XT90. No promises on extra speed, but power will definitely be more efficient when you squeeze the throttle to 100% for extended periods of time.
-Brett
Great information, thank you
EC5/IC5 in the house! Lol.
Great info, thank you!
I really like to solder EC5, because you can go with a lot of heat to the gold pins. XT90 are easily moving when the plastic is getting to hot.
But getting the gold pins into the blue plastic of the EC5 is a nightmare, any tips here to get them easy in and out?
Can I just say that the ic3 in my experience are harder to solder because if they get too hot the plastic melts and the connectors float inside the plastic. Where as the ec3 you can solder them first and then push them into the plastic so you don’t risk melting the plastic.
Plug them together while soldering......
Are you gonna make a review for the new yokomo yz4 sf2?
Umm, probably not but i'm not sure. Building up a kit and reviewing it is really time consuming and expensive for us. But we'll see....
-Brett
There's also the EC8 connector, EC5's big daddy.
I use the adapters from fracas to SC5. Too lazy to put new ends on my X maxx and don’t wanna void the warranty, lol. It’s just as fast as my buddies and I can run it for 40 mins with My 9000 4s batteries.
Hey Brett. Great video except you didn't say which connector was easiest to plug and unplug. I have limited dexterity and strength and have a hard time with most connectors. I have a savage flux 6s and would like a good connector that's easy to plug in. What do you suggest??
Hmm, that's a tough one. I don't really remember any connector be noticeably easier than the other, and the connector tolerances can vary depending on the who made them. But I'd say your best bet is the XT90 made by AMass, they're pretty smooth. If it's amass, it will say on one side of the plastic housing; kind of like you can see on these blue ones: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-4.5mm-trucurrent-xt90-polarized-connectors-2-male-2-female-ptk-5039/p232391
Hope that helps Mikey.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies I'll give them a try. Thanks a bunch
How do you not have the OSE8MM antisparks in this video! Better than ALL of these connectors
Those are cool! Never heard of them before but we're going to look into them. Thanks for the info.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yes i talked with matt @ amain before he was going to get them setup with you guys . Here is a direct link to buy bulk www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs8-anti
Everyone running high voltage setups, xmaxx, dbxl ,5ive, limitless on all the forums this is all they use now they are awesome. Have a good one
I use T plugs and xt60
The only thing bad about the Traxxas I'd connector is that you have to buy Traxxas batteries and chargers. Smart call on traxxas's part tho
Yeah, converting two different connectors into only one is not only convenient, but a great way to prevent user error and accidents. In some ways, it's the best connector ever made, except for having to buy Traxxas batteries and chargers.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies is just one of the many things they’ve done for the hobby over the years to get new people into it! Ten years ago you’d never want a new person getting lipo batteries but now you explain a few things and they’ve got it, it’s great!
@@mikes062 true. It seems like now all you have to do is follow a simple set of instructions
Bryson Kuhn yup, that’s been Traxxas’s goal since they started really, with ready to run stuff. The easier it is to start a hobby the better!
They also are trash battery's meh electronics just rebrand overpriced sensorless castle escs and motors. And the connectors don't allow for much current given there size.
What about the trx traxxas connector
Can you do a tutorial on how to solder different popular connectors
Here is a video showing how to solder a connector, but not all connectors: ruclips.net/video/uun9xgo0peQ/видео.html
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies I was just a bit nervous as I use ec5 and people say they are one of the hardest to solder and I am new to soldering but would like to change the connector on a battery
Great video thanks!
If I didn't have soo many Deans already I would love to change to IC3 and IC5 🙃
Funny thing is a week ago I did the jump to all IC3 plugs
sooooooo many Deans. just thinking about switching them all is exhausting.
@@AugustusMcMillan i went IC3 and havent had a connector issue yet def worth it in my opinion
Can you please do a video about picking the right amp rated esc and motor please.
What do you need exactly?
rc guy well I have a brushless motor that draws 70+ amps and I’m using only a 60amp brushless esc and I am running 1/10. Would an 80a esc be good or should I go up to 100 or higher?
Picking up an 80A or 100A ESC would be a good idea to have a little head room, and so your ESC isn't working at 100% all the time. The easier your ESC & motor works, the longer they will last.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies thank you!
I have all traxxas batteries and chargers but I’m getting the aeroscout plane which comes with I think ic3 connectors. Can I put traxxas connectors on it?
Just changed to ec5 connectors for my Summit. What are your thoughts about adapters for chargers? My Traxxas batteries have ec5 connectors but I only have the Traxxas ez peak charger
What did you do with the balance wires on the battery? If these were Traxxas iD Batteries, the balance connector is integrated into the iD connector. If you are not using the balance wires to balance charge, you are at great risk and should discontinue using those batteries immediately!
-Brett
What about the adapters that don't have wires? I understand that using the wired type for charging is ok but using the wireless plug type adapters is for running in the vehicle?
I dislike deans always have I prefer trx connector over it but i like the xt and ec
I've just got an traxxas xrt but don't want to lose the warranty so can I use a traxxas to ec5 adapter
Hah! *solders deans plugs to everything*
I used to be a young deans user like you... then I melted and obliterated a few with a castle 7700kv on only 2S... 😂
Can I use larger connectors on smaller batteries strictly for the sake of having one smart charger, and all the vehicles in my fleet having the same connection? Main example would be just putting XT90 or IC5 on the 800mah 2s Lipos that I have in my brushless mini T. I know it’s beyond overkill but I’m ocd like that
Yeah that should be ok!
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies awesome thanks for the quick reply!!
I’ve been trying to figure out how to install bullet connections on my motor for quick swaps in my race buggies
I love tamiya plug never get pff cuz they block and easy to got
Oooooorrrr you can just buy a set of adapters and put whatever battery you buy in it. Just make sure you get a quality one so that you don’t have resistance built into it. I always try to match the wire thickness