Dude really solid content here with some actually insights into making these beers well. I’m right there with you on the the mash temps, the FG and hopping rates for these beers. 🍻 I also just simplified my brewery a lot and sold my unitank and brewtools to go simpler. Just trying to get to keep it fun while still making world class beers.
Love the content. I have a Gen 4 120 35L as well. Still dialing it all in. I have a couple of questions for you. Curious if you have tried the David Heath approach with modern boil times of 30 mins with this machine? Also, I'm a hop head as well so just wondering if you have you ever done a Hazy Pale Ale video in the past? Or plan on doing one on this machine in a new video? Thanks!
Thanks! I haven’t done much looking into short boils, I still do minimum 60 minute boils, if not longer. I find the mash efficiency with adjunct heavy beers (30-40%) tend to be terrible. I’m averaging 58-60% mash efficiency with this system. I don’t mind though, I just add more grain or boil longer to meet the SG needed. Otherwise, with all barley mashes I see the typical 76-80% mash efficiency’s with this unit. I haven’t done a Hazy Pale Ale yet but I sure can add that to the list!
Spot on with the mash temp logic! That's exactly what Sam from Brujos pointed out he does in his hazies on the CB&B pod. You ever try adding the hops a little later on in the process? It seems like that's been the trend commercially. Great vid and great sounding beer!
Do you mean later on as in moving my boil hops to the WP only? Or ditching the boil addition entirely? I’ve done a WP only hazy, on the homebrew level, I don’t think it works as it does commercially since their WP’s and transfer times last 60-90 minutes in total where ours are so much faster. I’m a big fan a small bittering addition on homebrewed or commercial batches, I think I just added too much this time 😂
@@secretlevel5951 gotcha, yeah! My normal method is to dry hop after soft crashing and removing yeast, since I’ve sold my conicals I’ve been playing around with different DH schedules. I do tend to like the DH temp around 60 over 68F and what that gives. Definitely would just do the entire DH in one charge and post ferm on this beer. Or at least add them later into ferm.
I believe if you wait to dry hop after you cold crash and transfer off the yeast then you can prevent the green taste. I think the problem is hop oils stuck to yeast floats and tastes bad.
I show it briefly in the video but a lot of the finer particles get past the basket false bottom so it’s just an added filter to keep grain from being left to be boiled.
To reduce the contact time. I think reducing the contact time would lessen that “Green” character from the high amount of dry hops and make this an even more enjoyable beer. If you have the ability to drop the cone between dry hops too, I was also do that.
That’s makes sense! Great write up… I’ve been having trouble with my IPA’s lately both hazy and clear with muddled flavours which I can’t seem to shake. I tend to 50/50 all additions maybe I need to later them
@@Themadvikingbrewing hopefully you get some good tips from this! I’ll be releasing a West Coast IPA grain to glass shortly! (It’s currently 6 days into primary and will be getting its DH soon)
Beer body is more related to unfermentable sugars (dextrins), beta-glucans, carbon dioxide and, sometimes as in Guinness, nitrogen, nuetral alcohols, and foam. Alcohol is less of a contributor.
Alcohol is not the major player when it comes to determining body, I understand that completely. But it 100% does play a roll. Ever had a 10% TIPA with all 2-Row or Pilsner malt that finishes around 1.008’ish and notice it still has a ton of body? A lot to due with alcohol content, at least in my opinion.
@@HopKillerBrewery Ethanol is less of a contributor to beer body. In fact it can act as a liquid thinning agent. Unfermentable sugars, dextrins are the main drivers for beer body. High ABV can certainly affect mouth feel but I am just going on the accepted definition of beer body in the brewing industry. I have tasted a zero ABV beer that had an intense body and a dry high ABV beer that had way less body. The ethanol affects taste and can enhance aromas by releasing more volatiles but it’s main function is to induce intoxicating effects in the brain. Remember, ethanol is a group 1 carcinogen. The liver breaks down ethanol using an enzyme into acetylaldehyde which is a toxin. Acetaldehyde is highly toxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic. Nasty stuff. Ever wondered why heavy drinkers invariably end up with liver damage, liver cancer etc? “Everything in moderation” [Δελφι Oracle, ~500 BC Ancient Greece]
Dude really solid content here with some actually insights into making these beers well. I’m right there with you on the the mash temps, the FG and hopping rates for these beers. 🍻 I also just simplified my brewery a lot and sold my unitank and brewtools to go simpler. Just trying to get to keep it fun while still making world class beers.
Love the content. I have a Gen 4 120 35L as well. Still dialing it all in. I have a couple of questions for you. Curious if you have tried the David Heath approach with modern boil times of 30 mins with this machine? Also, I'm a hop head as well so just wondering if you have you ever done a Hazy Pale Ale video in the past? Or plan on doing one on this machine in a new video? Thanks!
Thanks! I haven’t done much looking into short boils, I still do minimum 60 minute boils, if not longer. I find the mash efficiency with adjunct heavy beers (30-40%) tend to be terrible. I’m averaging 58-60% mash efficiency with this system. I don’t mind though, I just add more grain or boil longer to meet the SG needed. Otherwise, with all barley mashes I see the typical 76-80% mash efficiency’s with this unit.
I haven’t done a Hazy Pale Ale yet but I sure can add that to the list!
@@HopKillerBrewery awesome stuff. Looking forward to more videos.
Spot on with the mash temp logic! That's exactly what Sam from Brujos pointed out he does in his hazies on the CB&B pod. You ever try adding the hops a little later on in the process? It seems like that's been the trend commercially. Great vid and great sounding beer!
Do you mean later on as in moving my boil hops to the WP only? Or ditching the boil addition entirely?
I’ve done a WP only hazy, on the homebrew level, I don’t think it works as it does commercially since their WP’s and transfer times last 60-90 minutes in total where ours are so much faster.
I’m a big fan a small bittering addition on homebrewed or commercial batches, I think I just added too much this time 😂
@@HopKillerBrewery sorry, I just meant adding dry hops later on in fermentation. It's early here 😅
@@secretlevel5951 gotcha, yeah! My normal method is to dry hop after soft crashing and removing yeast, since I’ve sold my conicals I’ve been playing around with different DH schedules. I do tend to like the DH temp around 60 over 68F and what that gives. Definitely would just do the entire DH in one charge and post ferm on this beer. Or at least add them later into ferm.
New sub. Love the content. Glad i found your channel
Thanks for the comment! It’s appreciated
I just brewed my hazy yesterday , very similar , but it’s all Nelson . I call it the full Nelson .
Hell yeah. Nelson is the best!
I believe if you wait to dry hop after you cold crash and transfer off the yeast then you can prevent the green taste. I think the problem is hop oils stuck to yeast floats and tastes bad.
Why the bag?
I show it briefly in the video but a lot of the finer particles get past the basket false bottom so it’s just an added filter to keep grain from being left to be boiled.
Why do you suggest changing the hopping schedule times?
To reduce the contact time. I think reducing the contact time would lessen that “Green” character from the high amount of dry hops and make this an even more enjoyable beer.
If you have the ability to drop the cone between dry hops too, I was also do that.
That’s makes sense! Great write up… I’ve been having trouble with my IPA’s lately both hazy and clear with muddled flavours which I can’t seem to shake. I tend to 50/50 all additions maybe I need to later them
@@Themadvikingbrewing hopefully you get some good tips from this! I’ll be releasing a West Coast IPA grain to glass shortly! (It’s currently 6 days into primary and will be getting its DH soon)
@@HopKillerBrewery love your work!
Beer body is more related to unfermentable sugars (dextrins), beta-glucans, carbon dioxide and, sometimes as in Guinness, nitrogen, nuetral alcohols, and foam.
Alcohol is less of a contributor.
Alcohol is not the major player when it comes to determining body, I understand that completely. But it 100% does play a roll.
Ever had a 10% TIPA with all 2-Row or Pilsner malt that finishes around 1.008’ish and notice it still has a ton of body? A lot to due with alcohol content, at least in my opinion.
@@HopKillerBrewery
Ethanol is less of a contributor to beer body.
In fact it can act as a liquid thinning agent.
Unfermentable sugars, dextrins are the main drivers for beer body.
High ABV can certainly affect mouth feel but I am just going on the accepted definition of beer body in the brewing industry.
I have tasted a zero ABV beer that had an intense body and a dry high ABV beer that had way less body.
The ethanol affects taste and can enhance aromas by releasing more volatiles but it’s main function is to induce intoxicating effects in the brain.
Remember, ethanol is a group 1 carcinogen.
The liver breaks down ethanol using an enzyme into acetylaldehyde which is a toxin.
Acetaldehyde is highly toxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic. Nasty stuff.
Ever wondered why heavy drinkers invariably end up with liver damage, liver cancer etc?
“Everything in moderation”
[Δελφι Oracle, ~500 BC Ancient Greece]