DIY Drill Powered Jump Ring Cutter
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2022
- Cutting jump rings by hand can be a pain but this powered saw cuts smooth ends and makes the cutting of coils so much easier.
Plans: www.builditmakeit.com/store/p...
or: builditmakeit.etsy.com
STL Files: www.builditmakeit.com/project...
MATERIALS
Shaft Spindle Assembly: geni.us/DtgoK (Amazon)
Drill:geni.us/LY85hM (Amazon)
HSS Saw Blades: geni.us/4yPHRS (Amazon)
or Tungsten Carbide Blades: geni.us/UfUBkYq (Amazon)
Springs: geni.us/0vRBt (Amazon)
1/4 Stainless Steel Bolts: geni.us/bmFArtR (Amazon)
3D
Filament: geni.us/j472r (Amazon)
HDPE
3/4” HDPE Cutting Board: geni.us/cU5bBG (Amazon)
Turkey Pan: geni.us/o1dT (Amazon) (cheaper in store)
OPTIONAL
Pump and Tubing: geni.us/U75vQq (Amazon)
Cutting Fluid: geni.us/fpQ2h (Amazon)
Metric Cap Head Bolts: geni.us/5LY5DX4 (Amazon)
Build It Make It Links:
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Website: builditmakeit.com
Etsy Shop: etsy.com/shop/BuildItMakeIt
Instagram: / builditmakeit
Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/builditma...
Thanks for the music from StreamBeats check them out - / @streambeatsbyharrishe...
Links may be affiliate thinks.
Chapters:
#chainmail #jumpring #armorking 
Хобби
Your channel is criminally underrated. Awesome jig and great video!
Thanks a ton and glad you liked it. This is one of my favorite things I have built.
It was fun watching a video that showed some of your thinking process and problem solving. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! It is fun trying something new and I’m glad you liked it :)
I love how you are capable of seeing a problem and trying to find a solution to make it better. I’m the same way. After watching this video I was very impressed with your problem solving solutions that I too have found a few things you could do to improve your existing design. I of course am not looking compensation or being added as a co-designer. Im very well to do in my biz but I love a great challenge like you have faced. I’m very happy I came across your page tonight! I look forward to seeing what else you come up in your shop! Brunner
Thanks! That is super cool. I would love to hear any ideas you have to make it better. That’s how great stuff gets done. Take care!
Wow this is a flawless creation. I doubt most people can even appreciate how much of a game changer your invention is for the hobby. I wish I had this when I started my ‘berk! Being able to shred through that many rings at that speed would have saved so many hours.. The thought of making other chainmail projects isn’t so daunting if you have this around! Thanks for recording and sharing this
Thanks so much. I’ve cut so many by hand and was always sad at the work and the ugly ends. Glad this can be of help and I’d love to see what you have made in the past.
It's a copy/clone of the Ringinator.
Ok, this tool look game changer. This is so cool to see how you’ve created it !
I definitely will never be able to do it myself, but if someone what to do it for me, I could buy it 😍
Brilliant design.
Thanks 😊
Yes! I’ve been waiting for this video for awhile.
I know. Hopefully the rework was worth the payoff. Now to make the actual hauberk I have a 3" by 10" piece so far so don't hold your breath too much for that. I am planning on 6 months...... maybe if I could get the kids to work on it I could get it done a bit faster :)
@@BuildItMakeIt Nothing like a little child labor to get some work done.
@@BuildItMakeIt Also. That 3d print is awesome. Some of my favorite channels are the ones that do things like this, solving engineering problems and showing the iterative process behind it.
@@gmvader 🤣
Have no need for this but it's awesome! Nice job
Thanks! Glad you liked it. I am pretty happy with how it turned out.
Neat machine! One thing I'd change on it are those top cover springs. Put them _under_ the cover (possibly recessed into the work surface 10mm or so), then put short pieces of vinyl tube where these springs were. What that'll give you is some spring tension on the top plate that will keep it 'up' at all times, yet remain fully adjustable. Pieces of tube will act as buffers for the preload tension just in case not all four bolts are adjusted identically.
Thanks for the tips! I did originally have the springs below but it ran better with them above. I like the idea of the tubes above to help on both sides. Thanks!
Thank you so much...the street artsans of Brazi salutes you...we can't affort a 750 usd ringnator...(almost 4 k brl)...cut rings 1.20mm steelwith a pliers..man is hard...i share with everybody who mades chainmail ...this is a game changer for us...
Glad you are liking it! That is awesome you are sharing it around. I have really enjoyed mine and glad others are enjoying it. Cutting those rings by hand was killing me. I like chainmail a lot more now :)
It's amazing how many of us have come up with essentially the same solution, over the years. My coiling and cutting rigs are based on things that I saw more than a decade ago, using similar principles. I don't see an update on this but you might find, like I did, that adding some small and weak springs between the two pressure plates makes it easier to set the gap for the coil, plus it makes it easier to inset the coils that you're cutting. A groove at the bottom also tends to pinch the cut ring against the sides of the blade, increasing wear and heat. My next block will only have a groove on the top. I'll be printing out the blade enclosure using a resin printer and embedding it in a block of HDPE, whereas my original jig was just cut straight out of HDPE. If it works out I may have a machinist make one out of aluminum, using my 3D models.
Oh thanks. That is good to hear that others have tried the same sort of thing. That is a good idea about adding the weaker coils on the inside. I did try that but I found once I tweaked the tightness on the upper springs that I didn't need them but I may need to go back and play with that to see if I just didn't have things well setup.
@@BuildItMakeIt - The biggest thing is that the weaker springs hold the gap open, making it easier to insert the coils to be cut. Less fiddly. I have videos of my coiler and cutter setup on my RUclips page.
@@morallyambiguousnet Oh wow just checked out your setup. That is nice. That is pretty funny you used the hdpe and the clear platic on the top and everything. Guess when there is a good idea that is what people gravitate to. Wish I had seen your video before working out mine. Would have saved a lot of time figuring things out :) I can totally see what you mean with the little springs. That looks like it was much easer to get it under. Thanks!
@@BuildItMakeIt - You're welcome :)
When something works, it works. People are going to find the same solutions. i saw some rigs that other people had come up with and thought, "I can do better than that", so I did. Later on I saw many of the solutions I came up with in the work of many other people. Simultaneous development is definitely a thing.
Would love to have all your tools. Great video! Resourceful!!
Thanks, I have been working on saving up and buying them for over 15 years now. Crazy how time flies.
Thanks man
You're welcome!
Genius
Wow sir, you did a great job, thank you for all your hard work, you're truly an inventor, also thank you for explaining cutting the 14gauge coil, now I need to get a 3D printer to make mine just like yours =) great work.
Thank you very much! If you have the woodworking tools you can totally make it without the printer. I converted my old one over that I made in the video to the new design, and while it is a bit more challenging to make it probably works better than the 3D printed version just because it is more solid.
I bet you could integrate both the ring maker and cutter with a couple small changes so you would have to feed the coils into the cutter and you could sit back and watch them collect into a larger bin if you wanted, and you would have another video to complement this one. I'll be happy to share my idea should you want to expand on your current design?
Yeah I would love to do an all in one solution. I have thought of trying to merge the two but haven't come up with a good solution for saw cut. Please share your ideas, I would love to hear them.
Looking forward to that third part with the actual chainmail
Yeah, I need to get back on that. I cut all the rings, but then sort of puttered out on this last one since I already have a couple of shirts and coifs.
@@BuildItMakeItmake a blanket! I am.
Love to see your automatic rivet mail making machine as well😃
Not gonna happen
Yeah that would be awesome, now where can I find a pneumatic power hammer at?
This looks like an amazing set of plans! what would you say the maximum and minimum diameter and/or gauge rings this could manage would be?
I am not sure the maximum on steel, probably need to go slow, but I have done some 10 gauge for making ring mail. For smallest with the way the v groove is cut I think you are going to be at 1/8 inch. I have done 1/4 fine but haven't personally tried any smaller. Where you really run into issues is fine wire (say 20 gauge and up) with large diameters. I tried some 20 gauge aluminum at 1/2 and it was so weak the top plat squished it down. I should have just hand fed it at that point and it probably would have worked fine.
Absolutely fantastic!! Fun to watch and fun to observe you thinking process and problem-solving! I am going to cut aluminum jump rings - the aluminum wire has max 2mm wide. Do you think that I can use a Dremel to cut them? Or, maybe, the low speed of it... won't do the job? Thanks a lot for the video and for the plan 😉
Thanks! I think the dremmel would work great and you don’t need super fast speeds. I think the dremmel and it’s smaller blades will have less run out so you should get a bit better cut as well. If you try it let me know how it goes!
@@BuildItMakeIt thank you! I asked you about the Dremel because I tried to cut the rings with it and it melted the aluminum 😂 So it certainly has to have a cooling system of some kind. I have a friend who is a master of wood and I will ask him if he's up to building this machine for me following your plan. When I do have it running I'll certainly let you know the results 😉 Thanks again and have a wonderful weekend 🌞🛠🔧🪛🔩
Awesome build. Unfortunately the top plate STL that you cut out of acrylic here, does not line up with the cutting plate.
Oh sorry. I looked at the plans and the top acrylic plate in the design is for the HDPE version, so I added cut plans for the 3D printed version incase people want to cut a top plate from acrylic for a 3D printed cutter. It is updated on my website and Esty. Thanks for pointing that out and hopefully I made it more clear in the plans.
@@BuildItMakeIt Appreciate the reply. Was able to get it all aligned and put together. Even gave it a spin. Loving it so far. The only issue now is the cutting fluid is spraying at me pretty good and going all over the floor. I have the pump on the lowest setting. Pretty sure the blade is cutting in the correct direction, but can't seem to eliminate the mess. Any suggestions?
that’s weird, I wonder if the pressure regulator on the pump isn’t working because it should turn down pretty low. You could try pinching the outlet hose a bit to decrease the flow, but that may just increase the pressure.
Thank you for the details on speeds and feeds for cutting steel. most of the rigs show it cutting through aluminum like butter, but cutting steel is what I need it for and had a frustrating time with the Ringanator Mark 1 on Steel. I have the Spindle assemble and some blades on order. One note that could be improved on the guide, It would be good to have the total lengths on the plates where the pilot holes are at(page 7) to ensure that the plate is oriented the right way. would be awful to find out after all the layout it was done 90 degrees off. And am I correct that it would be easier to cut the groves in the top and bottom plate and then do the pilot drilling of the four bolts holding them together while the pieces are stacked to ensure that the grooves are aligned in the final product? it seems to me that the truly critical things in the build are ensuring that the groove is perfectly aligned top and bottom and that the spindle assemble is 90 degrees perpendicular to ensure the blade in perfectly strait in the V groove. Is that a fair read and that the other points can be a little looser?
Thanks for your comments, you have a bunch of good points. I looked on page seven and you are right the total length and width aren't listed, but are on the page before, so I could add those for clarity.
You are correct that the groves need to be aligned between the top and the bottom, but because the top plate only lies on top of the rings, perfect alignment isn't critical as the bolts running through the top and bottom plate can be at a slight angle. It would probably be easier though like you said to make the bottom plate, then put the groove in the top plate, line them up and use the bottom plate as a drilling template to drill the holes in the top plate. You can use a round dowel to perfectly align the two when clamping them together, to guarantee the slot alignment. I will go back and add this to the plans as it will give less odds of a misalignment.
For the spindle cutter there is some play built into the hole sizes so that you can adjust it a little bit to get it perpendicular to the slot, and then tighten it up. I found this pretty easy to do by sight and didn't find I had an issue with this in any of my ~7 top plates I built while prototyping this :)
Are the dimensions in the plans the same as the standard file I need to know so I buy a big enough 3d printer
Yes they are the same dimensions roughly. A 220mm x 220mm 3D printer will fit it (actually a 200x200mm bed will as well). I made it so pretty much any standard 3d printer should be able to handle it!
Hello, wondering if you would share your 3d printer settings. I have a friend who will print it for me but wants to know about the interior settings and thickness of the walls in the print and such. Any details appreciated!
Sure, I did three perimeters at 50 percent infill and .4mm nozzle. I think doing 4 perimeters may be better as the thing does jiggle around a lot and I have had a little bit of cracking (from accidentally over tightening in one corner).
Do you know where I could get thinner blades for doing 20g coils ?
The thinner blades have problems with being really weak, but I did some copper with them. You can try aliexpress for finding all sorts of blade thicknesses.
I really enjoyed this video and am in the process of building the ring cutter. My question is about the orientation of the cutter tray. In the stl image it is inverted and it seems right-side-up would be easier. If that was intentional, please explain why it's better. Did the position make many extra supports necessary? Cheers
I did it that way because it made less supports, but I don’t see why you couldn’t print it right way up. If you do let me know how it turns out.
Any way to add in a way to offset each subsequent cut so you can cut rings for riveted rings?
Not that I know of. I have been doing some riveted rings, and since the cut gets smashed the jagged edge isn't so bad. That said, I would love to figure out a way to make it more automated for the offset. I have seen some people cut them and then squish the rings to make the overlap, but I don't really like the look of the squished rings that way.
are you selling this coil cutter devise
Love the design,How do you think it will work with Brass.
Thanks! Low carbon Steel has a Rockwell hardness of 60 and brass (varies with alloy) is generally around 55 so you should be good, even a bit easier than steel. I have also done medium carbon steel which while tough is doable so I think you should be on a good spot.
What would you recommend printing the whole thing out of in your opinion
I would print it out if ASA or ABS for the chemical resistance and higher temperature resistance on the top plate. PETG would also work, but I like ASA better personally since I actually have better luck printing with it and I think it is superior generally in its properties (like UV resistance, but that doesn’t matter for this application)
I've been looking for something like this for 4 years! It's perfect! I have questions about purchasing the blueprints and materials etc. Can I email/DM you with some questions??
Sure.
Hello! Does the 3d printed piece need any tool other than a drill and spindle to be complete? Will any handheld drill work (considering I own a lithium battery one)? Also, from 10.51 till 11.01 you use other tools to further refine the 3d pieces. Do the plans already have these modifications/additions or will I need to make cuts myself?
Yep any drill will work with the setup you just need to make sure the drill is stable while running. The plans already have all the modifications I made as was designing out the cutter.
@@BuildItMakeIt also, the only hss saw blades i can find (no amazon over here) are smaller than the ones suggested (The one I've found is a proxxon 28020 hss, 50x0.56x10 mm). Do you think the blueprints for the 3d piece can be adjusted to fit another blade?
🔥
I printed out the setup. I noticed that the top plate and the cutting plate holes and the slots on both don't match up correctly. So I may have to go in and and redo the measurements on the top plate so everything matches up with the cutting plate.
Thanks for pointing that out. I looked in the CAD model and everything seems to match up. Did you get the STL files from my website, or as a package with buying the plans. I am trying to figure out the offending STL files.
@@BuildItMakeIt I got them with buying the plans for the package deal for the cutter and coiling jig.
Thanks so much. You are right two of the holes were shifted off to the side a bit. I have updated the files. You should be able to redownload the new top plate. Thanks for letting me know.
@@BuildItMakeIt already imported it into tinkercad and corrected it myself as well. But still glad you were able to fix it for future buyers or people that want to make it.
Now I just have to finish getting the bolts and the blade and I will be ready to cut my own jump rings.
@@chrisbowman1005 Thats great you were able to update it. And let me know how it turns out!
Please how many spools does it require
One will do the whole project (800 grams ish, depending on settings)
Great job sir use full product.
are you selling for the product sir?
Thanks! Currently I am not selling the full product just the plans for making it.
You really fo need to sell it I can't find anyone to print it for me
Do the plans show how to assemble the 3D printed setup? The video goes way too fast for me.
Sorry the video goes too fast. Yes the plan show how to put the jig together.
Thanks for the quick response! I'll order the plans.
You're videos are amazing!
@@annswift6068 thanks! If you have any issues don’t hesitate to reach out for help.
Hi. Mabe you can fix one for me PLEASE? I want to buy it
Sorry I am not making them right now. Maybe in the future if I can get some more time. Thanks!
👌 OK when you get more time please sent me messenger. Thanks allot. Great jomp.
Pipe, on the input for coil, cut a slot down the pipe and add a spring to tenion the coil being fed to the blade....
That is a really good idea. I’ll have to find some tiny tubing, but that’s a really good plan.
@@BuildItMakeIt hobby lobby, home depot, brass/aluminum, pipe. Just matching to outside dia of the coil, can put a larger rod as a ramrod pushin the coil through
@@BuildItMakeIt currently trying to do some rings myself and really liking the whole process ya got :)
@@KJ-xt3yu Thanks! Your totally right about the tubing at a bunch of local places. I never knew :) I’m gonna get some and try it out. Thanks again, I love being able to get good ideas I would never have thought of.
Sir I have to make it iam from India and I don't have 3D printer please give me solution
You can make it with normal woodworking tools if you don’t have a 3D printer.
What printer did you use
I used a homemade 3D printer. The prints aren’t very difficult, just long.
Hey..how much would you sell this for
The designs are posted for $7, but it's really similar to the Ringinator, which uses more durable materials but goes for about $500.
I am probably not going to sell prebuilt version. Also I checked out the ringinator line razzemmatazz pointed out and it looks very similar, but metal and nicer. Cool we came to similar designes.
I wan this machin
p.s. I have a Ender 3 Pro and Cura slicer. 😁
0mg u have make me one
Cuanto cuestan
The plans are in the description from Etsy and my website. Thanks!
DIY as long as you have a full shop of machining tools.
If you don’t have the tools for the shop built one I have the 3D printed version as well.
Do we not understand what DIY means? 😂
Diy shouldn't need more than a normal toolbox
A 3d printer is a cheap, super versatile tool. You can pick one up for $250 bucks and have it up and running in as little as 2 hours. That is pretty cheap compared to a bunch of other basic toolbox tools.
@@DragonWilhelmif you want to do more than basic home matinance you need more than a normal toolbox homie.
Hmm... it does seem like you need a $100,000 workshop to make a $100 jig...
Woah! I wish I had a $100,000 dollar shop that would be awesome!