Greetings from the river Shannon in Ireland where I have a 38ft R&D 1992 narrowboat with Perkins 3 cylinder diesel. I don't think my air filter has been changed in years as it was full of rubber goo sucked in from the fan belt, like a black silicon. I have been looking for weeks to try and find what filter it was and then you showed the part number, brilliant! Thanks so much.
Goodness that sounded bad. My old engine was a 3 cylinder air cooled lister in my last boat. It sounded awesome. I'm glad you found my vlog useful. I'm always pleased when it helps others. Thanks for the great comment Gerard. I've heard Ireland is stunning for boaters. Take care.
Another good service vid... Well done. I also do not wear gloves; I was taught 50 years ago that wearing gloves reduces the skill quality in using hand tools. Therefore I use barrier-cream which keeps the oil and dirt away from my skin without reducing the feel or loss of skill. The cream is non-slip and after the job is complete washing off is a dream, 50 years later, using greasy tools in all that time my hands and skin are as good as new.
m.facebook.com/groups/742170096639719/permalink/768824650640930/ I use hemp cream from this link. I've been motorbike mechanic for many years. I use this cream now it's fantastic. Thanks for your comment it really helps.
Good advice about taking the waste oil to a marina or boatyard for disposal (you usually have to buy diesel or something). So many inconsiderate boaters’ just dump their waste oil at CRT rubbish points. CRT get charged to take this away which subsequently gets passed onto boaters’ through increases in their licence fees.
I used to be a motorbike mechanic for years. My hands are used to it. I used to wear rubber gloves at work but the sweat from wearing them was awful. Thanks for watching.
Hi Will. Instead of buying the 1ltr oil pack @ £10, why don't you buy another 5ltr @ £25 and keep it for future oil changes. In the long term it will save you money. Love the videos by the way. Regards Col.
Hi Will On you fuel filter housing just below the plastic primer is a bleed nipple you only need to slacken this off to bleed the system. Also ,check that you screw the gearbox filler/dipstick in completely as you might be under filling the box
Very good video on servicing will,it will help a lot more boaters have more confidence to service there own engines,hope your doing ok and stay safe mate,best wishes John 👨✈️👌👍
This is great Will really pleased I found it, thanks for taking the time to film it. I bought my boat last year it had been lovingly maintained by it's previous owner, an ex marine engineer. I changed the engine oil just before winter and will do the rest next week before heading out . I have a shallow sump Beta which needs an oil change at every 150 hours rather than the usual 250 owing to the smaller capacity which means the oil has to work that bit harder and deteriorates faster. My gearbox is a PRM150D which in my case the book says takes ordinary 15W40 engine oil, the same as the engine which is handy! I notice its been filled a bit over the line but I'll correct that next week when I change the oil, perhaps I'll see an improvement as you did? I'm thinking I really should do the coolant sometime soon but that's a job that makes me a bit nervous, lol. Have you attempted that? Apologies if there's a video I've missed!
Don't flush all the coolant just syringe out or empty out the coolant from the coolant chamber as much as you can and refill it with the same colour coolant. Put some on a peace of white paper because it's hard to tell from blue or green etc. I changed my water pump 3 years ago so I changed my coolant. It should last me 5 years before changing again. I will just empty the expansion chamber. Just to refresh the system otherwise you have to bleed everything. Good luck
Hi Will, I have a Beta 43 and I also have one of those Wasp agglomerators (posh word for water separator) Mine is a W-30STM/D, but yours may be different, the model info is written on the side of it and you can get replacement elements and new O rings and seal kits for them. The elements are designed to be washed out with clean diesel and are usually made from stainless steel. The ST in the model number of mine indicates it’s a stainless steel element. Wasp are really friendly to deal with and the lady there called Jayne really knows her stuff and the products. I replaced the element and all the seals in mine on the last service as it just looked crappy. It’s designed to separate the water from the fuel plus stop most of the debris, the second cartridge filter you already have changed will catch what ever the Wasp one didn’t. They are brilliant and work well. Wasp website: www.wasp-pfs.com
Why make hard work for yourself? The bleed screw is the little 10mm bolt on the filter bracket...loosen, not remove this bolt and hard pump a few times on the black button, until steady diesel stream oozes out..then hold the button down, while tightening the bleed screw back up but NEVER over tighten this bolt as they can strip! Give a few more pumps(you'll here the diesel flowing back to the tank)and it'll start with a slight throttle setting with minor variations in speed, for a few seconds, while the air bubbles come out of the new filter!
Greetings from the river Shannon in Ireland where I have a 38ft R&D 1992 narrowboat with Perkins 3 cylinder diesel. I don't think my air filter has been changed in years as it was full of rubber goo sucked in from the fan belt, like a black silicon. I have been looking for weeks to try and find what filter it was and then you showed the part number, brilliant! Thanks so much.
Goodness that sounded bad. My old engine was a 3 cylinder air cooled lister in my last boat. It sounded awesome. I'm glad you found my vlog useful. I'm always pleased when it helps others. Thanks for the great comment Gerard. I've heard Ireland is stunning for boaters. Take care.
Another good service vid... Well done. I also do not wear gloves; I was taught 50 years ago that wearing gloves reduces the skill quality in using hand tools. Therefore I use barrier-cream which keeps the oil and dirt away from my skin without reducing the feel or loss of skill. The cream is non-slip and after the job is complete washing off is a dream, 50 years later, using greasy tools in all that time my hands and skin are as good as new.
m.facebook.com/groups/742170096639719/permalink/768824650640930/ I use hemp cream from this link. I've been motorbike mechanic for many years. I use this cream now it's fantastic. Thanks for your comment it really helps.
That engine will be purring, with all the attention she's been getting. Cheers
Ha ha I know. I treat it well. Thanks for watching.
Good advice about taking the waste oil to a marina or boatyard for disposal (you usually have to buy diesel or something). So many inconsiderate boaters’ just dump their waste oil at CRT rubbish points. CRT get charged to take this away which subsequently gets passed onto boaters’ through increases in their licence fees.
Yeah coming from a workshop environment background I'm used to it. Thanks for watching.
Good video - love narrowboat engine videos! I'd get some gloves though Will as thats evil stuff there!
I used to be a motorbike mechanic for years. My hands are used to it. I used to wear rubber gloves at work but the sweat from wearing them was awful. Thanks for watching.
Hi Will. Instead of buying the 1ltr oil pack @ £10, why don't you buy another 5ltr @ £25 and keep it for future oil changes. In the long term it will save you money. Love the videos by the way. Regards Col.
Ahh but the next service I will have half ltr left ha ha. No you're right.
Hi Will
On you fuel filter housing just below the plastic primer is a bleed nipple you only need to slacken this off to bleed the system. Also ,check that you screw the gearbox filler/dipstick in completely as you might be under filling the box
Ok mate thanks for the info.
Good informative vlog Will. I should find that useful when I get my Beta 43 under way, once my boat’s been built and I have fitted it out! 😉
Ooh look forward to your vlogs. Cheers
Very good video on servicing will,it will help a lot more boaters have more confidence to service there own engines,hope your doing ok and stay safe mate,best wishes John 👨✈️👌👍
Ahhh thanks John. You to mate. Stay safe, keep warm.
This is great Will really pleased I found it, thanks for taking the time to film it.
I bought my boat last year it had been lovingly maintained by it's previous owner, an ex marine engineer.
I changed the engine oil just before winter and will do the rest next week before heading out . I have a shallow sump Beta which needs an oil change at every 150 hours rather than the usual 250 owing to the smaller capacity which means the oil has to work that bit harder and deteriorates faster. My gearbox is a PRM150D which in my case the book says takes ordinary 15W40 engine oil, the same as the engine which is handy! I notice its been filled a bit over the line but I'll correct that next week when I change the oil, perhaps I'll see an improvement as you did?
I'm thinking I really should do the coolant sometime soon but that's a job that makes me a bit nervous, lol. Have you attempted that? Apologies if there's a video I've missed!
Don't flush all the coolant just syringe out or empty out the coolant from the coolant chamber as much as you can and refill it with the same colour coolant. Put some on a peace of white paper because it's hard to tell from blue or green etc. I changed my water pump 3 years ago so I changed my coolant. It should last me 5 years before changing again. I will just empty the expansion chamber. Just to refresh the system otherwise you have to bleed everything. Good luck
Hi will. You don’t need special marine type oil? Is that bog standard engine oil? 👍
Very interesting Will 👍
Thankyou
Quality content 👍👍 love a good service
That's what she said!
Ha ha yeah. I do..
Thanks Will your video will be so usefull when i do mine Beta 38 now 😉
Yeah I do hope it helps.
Hi Will, I have a Beta 43 and I also have one of those Wasp agglomerators (posh word for water separator) Mine is a W-30STM/D, but yours may be different, the model info is written on the side of it and you can get replacement elements and new O rings and seal kits for them. The elements are designed to be washed out with clean diesel and are usually made from stainless steel. The ST in the model number of mine indicates it’s a stainless steel element.
Wasp are really friendly to deal with and the lady there called Jayne really knows her stuff and the products.
I replaced the element and all the seals in mine on the last service as it just looked crappy. It’s designed to separate the water from the fuel plus stop most of the debris, the second cartridge filter you already have changed will catch what ever the Wasp one didn’t. They are brilliant and work well. Wasp website: www.wasp-pfs.com
That's so interesting. Thanks for the info.
Thank you so much for that info. I've just got some clean diesel and I will be washing that out asap. Thanks for your comments. Brilliant.
@@NarrowboatWill very welcome Will. I do enjoy your vlogs. 😀👍🏻
@@metalsnapper6728 cheers bud
Why make hard work for yourself? The bleed screw is the little 10mm bolt on the filter bracket...loosen, not remove this bolt and hard pump a few times on the black button, until steady diesel stream oozes out..then hold the button down, while tightening the bleed screw back up but NEVER over tighten this bolt as they can strip! Give a few more pumps(you'll here the diesel flowing back to the tank)and it'll start with a slight throttle setting with minor variations in speed, for a few seconds, while the air bubbles come out of the new filter!
Yeah I found the bleed screw in the end. Cheers
850hrs service interval? is that a typo? 150 is more like it.
250 it's a typo. Sorry.