Bad video he missed the hardest part, installing the lever which needs to drop down the well for the choke to attach to. It’s a blind area. Also he forgot the lever which locks out the secondaries when choke it on. It goes on before the choke mechanisms. Not good
Excellent video bro, after watching part 1 I was a little nervous about trying to rebuild a carb. It seemed like a lot of parts to take apart plus hard to follow. That was all resolved in part 2, you made the rebuild look very easy with your very detailed step by step instructions. Thank you for taking the time and effort it was much appreciated....now on to part 3!
I feel like there was missed info between Part 1 and Part 2...did you clean the carbs parts? can the major halves of the carb be dunked in a carb cleaning solution like Berryman Chem-Dip or are there still hidden seals that would be damaged by doing that?
Overall, a satisfactory video. I just took my Q-Jet from my 67 Olds 442 apart. It was a rebuilt from Rock Auto. Ran good for a while. Then the other day the car would barely run. Seemed to be a fuel problem. I confirmed this by swapping a Q-Jet from my 67 Riviera and my Olds ran fine. Clearly a fuel problem. Rather than fooling around with Rock Auto on warranty I took the carb apart. What I found was the little, tiny clip that hooks on the Viton needle was missing. This apparently was causing fuel flow problems into the carb. And naturally finding just that little clip, even as a part of a small parts kit, is a problem. One other issue pertaining to your video. You brushed over what I was looking for in connecting the linkage for the choke. It pertains to the small tab down inside the carb that connects to the remainder of the choke system attached to the outside. It was a royal pain for me to figure out how this all hooks together. And then I had to figure out how to align the phenolic fast idle cam while trying to hold that tab in place using the rod connected to the choke blade. With perseverance I got it connected.
Juat recently brought a 1984 Cadillac Coupè Deville and it had some major issues with Idling and starting. So I decided to rebuild the carb. I'm half way through it now thanks to your amazing videos. Super super helpful. 👌
Thanks so much!! Just starting on Q-jet for my '67 Cutlass. Needle and seat were plugged not allowing fuel in. Thanks for showing how to remove and replace them.
This guy's Q-Jet is drastically more simple than either of the two I've rebuilt. Disappointing that he chose one of the simplest configurations rather than one that would cover more complicated setups.
ouchymytoe this here’s a BOP carb, you may have a Chevy one which has slight differences, the older the better, newer ones have caps blocking the idle mixture screws, gotta cut those out to access them, make your life much easier
Well it really didn't surprise me that there was no part 3, especially since he didn't clean out any of the air and fuel holes in the air horn, body and base plate are even simply clean the corrosion and rust off any of the rods and many other parts. I personally wouldn't waste my time putting this carb back on without more cleaning and many adjustments for better fuel mileage and performance. Carter and Rochester made some awesome carbs if truly adjusted and tuned correctly they will not just get decent fuel mileage but scream while making tire blistering power.. It's a shame because the Olds 442's deserves the respect for a nice true rebuild and adjustment instead of the assembly/disassembly it got. Sorry about the negative post, but It truly hurt me to see this done. I've redone bad rebuilds many times and often free just to prove to some they can be redone and run better than a new one that's assembly tuned and adjusted. I did watch other videos and this guy does make good videos, but sadly these two needed more know how on the carb in my opinion.
Ricky Shuptrine well since you’re good at rebuilding Q jets properly by all means please make a video and post it to RUclips because this is one of the best step by step Ive seen to date
@IfYouDisagreeYouAreWrong It's nice meet you. During a rebuild you can adjust a screw kind of hidden beneath the primary rod assembly, thoroughly clean all air and fuel passages and some can be resized, same as the size of the primary and secondary metering rods. Checking for wear on the rods, flaps etc for not sealing well and readjusting primary and secondary if they do not close completely. Bending linkage rods to modify their response. Testing any vacuum device that hooks to any part of linkage. Adjusting the screw on the secondary top flaps hidden beneath the outer rod where the linkage rod goes usually from a vacuum canister for the optimum time and are response you want the secondary's to open. Make sure the secondary rods are seating with a small gap between the rod holder and a cam that opens them, other wise they can leak continuous fuel. Many of these will have to be done after on the engine and running for best results. I'm sure I missed many things but it would take a small book to write and show pictures for a much better detail than I can write here. Readjusting timing is also sometimes required. But as in his 3rd video basically a vacuum gauge and screwdriver is about all needed for the basic tuning.
@@LandonRoy-cv9rt Thank you for your reply. Sorry for the long delay before a reply, but I some how missed it and just found it a few minutes ago. This had been so long ago, I went back and re-watched part 1 & 2 to refresh my mind since I've watched thousands of video's over the years. In MY opinion the part 1 and 2 could have been in MUCH more detail. I even watched the 3rd video that for some reason that took a long time before posting, but I'm sure he stays busy are maybe forgot to post it but it is ok for a beginner. I admit for the average person this most likely would be a great video to go by other than they just need to make sure all ports are open after cleaning before the reassembly. I am not suggesting anyone not try and do the same thing as he did and they'd be ok with the results. Maybe I'm a bit OCD, but the rust and corrosion got to me along with him not showing a through cleaning of ports and many other things. I did click like on his videos, because for the average person this would be good enough for a rebuild.
Just FYI for everyone please use the float level in your rebuild for your specific model. I have a 1977 Trans Am and the 4 bbl quad in the California edition is 13/32" float level. I set it to 1/8" and it was running rich as hell... And I know because I have to smog it...
Definitely a good idea to check out your specific Quadrajet model's settings. Most are good starting at 1/8", but you bring up a good point with the California smog-legal carbs.
that choke link (bent rod) just magically shows in your video, just after inserting the inlet filter. It wasn't there before. You must have gone back, torn the upper air horn apart from the main body, then connected them....there's no way to get them connected after. Thanks alot!
Today is 03/02/22. If you are reading this, it is much later than the video was posted. There is a way to reassemble the choke rod and actuator with air-horn installed. Use a piece of copper wire. Very small, so it is just a little too big to fit between actuator arm and rod. Leave enough length to pull out wire when done, about 6 inches. Mark the rod with sharpie by holding on outside of carb body to get approximate distance you will need to feed into carb for alignment with choke. Then feed the arm and actuator through air horn, then gasket, into body. Slide out choke assembly far enough to get actuator close to position. Then fiddle. Fiddle with it some more. After a few tries (takes me average four or so) you will get lucky and slide the choke through the actuator arm. This process takes two or three minutes compared to twenty to thirty minutes to remove and reinstall air horn. Good Luck!
I would mention the primary holes in the base plate should be blown out and inspected closely I've seen dirt get in those and after the rebuild it won't idle properly and generally runs terrible sometimes it's necessary to run a fine wire in and out of all the holes to be sure. Just a suggestion from experience.
I leave the accelerator pump arm on the airhorn. No need to remove it, can easily assemble the bottom, first put the rod in the hole of the arm, then position throttle plate onto carb, done it on every quad version.
THANK for the great vid. I need to know what is the purpose of the criss cross line( like a checker plate )on the throttle plates of most of the carburetor like the ROCHESTER QUAD ? thank you very much
I have question I really appreciate the help! Excellent video by the way. My question is, I went to fire up my boat it has this carburetor after I put the kit on. But gas was shooting out the carburetor worse than before! When I turned it over. Any idea as to why? After I put the rebuild kit on
Great video it gave me the courage to give this a shot & was very helpful to me, thank you! If the wells were leaking how or what would be used to repair them?
Can you take that computer Quadjet 1986..87 Chevy Caprice...where I got one or same carb.. electric Can you OMIT the TPS...and computer module...and transfer it to a 1978 truck CARB....without those two details
So on the primary meter rod, mine doesnt have a point tip and the spring is missing so I'm thinking its stuck in there, I'm going to install it how it is, is this a bad idea?
Hello, my spring for my primary metering rods is a little stiff and pushes the rods back out after I put them in. Any suggestions? Thank you. Great video
Wanting to rebuild my carb on my truck. Numbers I pulled from the quadrajet is 17086045. I used carbsnation to find the particular model. Would like to order the kit from you guys though and not sure which one will fit my model. Could you lmk which kit will fir that carb? and also does your kits come with the floats and pins? thanks
If you actually take a shot of tequila every time he says "actually", by the end of the video you actually don't remember what the video is actually about and you can actually be drunk enough to actually not be able to actually re-assemble your carb and actually drive home.
Ok man. 2019 is here and I’m waiting on part three to see if everything worked out. And how to tune. I’m worried that the rebuild may not have worked out right. Knock Knock. Anyone home? Elllo? 😂
kenneth rippy I forgot it initially, but I come back to it and mention this in the video. you'll see at about 8:10, I show putting in the check ball and screw.
I see you are reinstalling parts that you never filmed removal of like the jets, check ball, float, needle and seat, metering roods etc. Where is part 3?
The choke blade should stay closed until at operating temp (~160F). Once at operating temp, then the blade should be fully open. If either is not true, then it probably just needs adjusting.
I had a serious issue with the float pin. Friends carb is flooding out, so I rebuild it. I find the needle valve laying in float bowl !! I never seen it before. I put it together, carb instantly floods out again. Take air horn off, needle valve is jammed up out of place, weird. Then I am watching another video on quadrajets, the U shaped float pin can get squashed too flat, that can cause the entire float to lift up at the pin and jam the needle causing a flood. So I expand the pin open and will test it again this Sunday. That pin, when you put the air horn on the carb, should slightly keep airhorn lifted off the main body. That way you know when you screw it together the pin will be held down tight . If it still floods I give up as otherwise, nothing makes any sense. But I think that is what happened, the pin somehow closed in on itself. No one has messed with that carb in many years, It is on a boat, a Tiara Pursuit from the mid 80's. I have no idea how the pin could warp-bend, it takes a lot of force to open the pin up.
Well I’m guessing they screwed that carburetor up so bad that they are too embarrassed to show us in part 3. Why else would they not finish this project.
Well, you skipped over some rather essential stuff, stuff that should not have been skipped over. Things like removing the jets, carefully so it's not to mess them up as many people do, removing the needle seat without losing the washer, and cleaning out all of the tiny little passageways, that is the reason most quadrajets begin to fail. There's a lot more information that should have been passed on to the viewer missing from this video series. Don't get me wrong, the effort is certainly appreciated, but the details that were skipped over are critical in a carburetor rebuild. Also, you had fuel in the intake, therefore the plugs must have been leaking. And lastly, it's important to save the old gaskets and match them up with the new ones, looking at both sides to make sure no new holes are exposed and no old holes are blocked. All quadrajets are not the same, and some have different gaskets than others.
Looks to me like a whole bunch of work to simply take the carb apart, squirting some WD40 here and there then putting it back together. So many ways to screw up the carb for so little actual “ rebuild”.
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This HAS to be the definitive video on rebuilding a Quadra jet carburetor!!! 😮👍🏻👍🏻
Bad video he missed the hardest part, installing the lever which needs to drop down the well for the choke to attach to. It’s a blind area. Also he forgot the lever which locks out the secondaries when choke it on. It goes on before the choke mechanisms. Not good
Excellent video bro, after watching part 1 I was a little nervous about trying to rebuild a carb. It seemed like a lot of parts to take apart plus hard to follow. That was all resolved in part 2, you made the rebuild look very easy with your very detailed step by step instructions. Thank you for taking the time and effort it was much appreciated....now on to part 3!
Thank you, and glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
I feel like there was missed info between Part 1 and Part 2...did you clean the carbs parts? can the major halves of the carb be dunked in a carb cleaning solution like Berryman Chem-Dip or are there still hidden seals that would be damaged by doing that?
Your videos are excellent. Easy to follow and very comprehensive. Thank you for making them for a shade tree mechanic like me.
I was going to use this old book my dad gave me to try and learn this, thank you, thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
So you don't replace the secondary air valve cam ?
Overall, a satisfactory video. I just took my Q-Jet from my 67 Olds 442 apart. It was a rebuilt from Rock Auto. Ran good for a while. Then the other day the car would barely run. Seemed to be a fuel problem. I confirmed this by swapping a Q-Jet from my 67 Riviera and my Olds ran fine. Clearly a fuel problem. Rather than fooling around with Rock Auto on warranty I took the carb apart. What I found was the little, tiny clip that hooks on the Viton needle was missing. This apparently was causing fuel flow problems into the carb. And naturally finding just that little clip, even as a part of a small parts kit, is a problem. One other issue pertaining to your video. You brushed over what I was looking for in connecting the linkage for the choke. It pertains to the small tab down inside the carb that connects to the remainder of the choke system attached to the outside. It was a royal pain for me to figure out how this all hooks together. And then I had to figure out how to align the phenolic fast idle cam while trying to hold that tab in place using the rod connected to the choke blade. With perseverance I got it connected.
👍
He forgot that part to show on video the deadest part
Juat recently brought a 1984 Cadillac Coupè Deville and it had some major issues with Idling and starting. So I decided to rebuild the carb. I'm half way through it now thanks to your amazing videos. Super super helpful. 👌
Excellent video
Great job! Looking forward to part three ;)
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Thanks so much!! Just starting on Q-jet for my '67 Cutlass. Needle and seat were plugged not allowing fuel in. Thanks for showing how to remove and replace them.
👍
Thumb buttons smashed for 1 & 2. Anxiously waiting for Part 3
Thanks!
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Great video but you forgot to put the choke linkage rod on before you put the horn and bowl together.
I caught you! You at first put the top back on the carb without the accelerator pump! Great video.
I was wondering if I was the only who saw that, as I am watching a year later, lol
👍
This guy's Q-Jet is drastically more simple than either of the two I've rebuilt. Disappointing that he chose one of the simplest configurations rather than one that would cover more complicated setups.
ouchymytoe this here’s a BOP carb, you may have a Chevy one which has slight differences, the older the better, newer ones have caps blocking the idle mixture screws, gotta cut those out to access them, make your life much easier
9/26/19.
Thank you for the DETAILED reassembly. The needle & seat portion had me confused after my 4 a.m. tear down procedure🤣.
So glad the video helped. Thanks for watching.
Great videos! Still looking for part 3 through!
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Well it really didn't surprise me that there was no part 3, especially since he didn't clean out any of the air and fuel holes in the air horn, body and base plate are even simply clean the corrosion and rust off any of the rods and many other parts. I personally wouldn't waste my time putting this carb back on without more cleaning and many adjustments for better fuel mileage and performance. Carter and Rochester made some awesome carbs if truly adjusted and tuned correctly they will not just get decent fuel mileage but scream while making tire blistering power.. It's a shame because the Olds 442's deserves the respect for a nice true rebuild and adjustment instead of the assembly/disassembly it got. Sorry about the negative post, but It truly hurt me to see this done. I've redone bad rebuilds many times and often free just to prove to some they can be redone and run better than a new one that's assembly tuned and adjusted. I did watch other videos and this guy does make good videos, but sadly these two needed more know how on the carb in my opinion.
Ricky Shuptrine well since you’re good at rebuilding Q jets properly by all means please make a video and post it to RUclips because this is one of the best step by step Ive seen to date
@IfYouDisagreeYouAreWrong It's nice meet you. During a rebuild you can adjust a screw kind of hidden beneath the primary rod assembly, thoroughly clean all air and fuel passages and some can be resized, same as the size of the primary and secondary metering rods. Checking for wear on the rods, flaps etc for not sealing well and readjusting primary and secondary if they do not close completely. Bending linkage rods to modify their response. Testing any vacuum device that hooks to any part of linkage. Adjusting the screw on the secondary top flaps hidden beneath the outer rod where the linkage rod goes usually from a vacuum canister for the optimum time and are response you want the secondary's to open. Make sure the secondary rods are seating with a small gap between the rod holder and a cam that opens them, other wise they can leak continuous fuel. Many of these will have to be done after on the engine and running for best results. I'm sure I missed many things but it would take a small book to write and show pictures for a much better detail than I can write here. Readjusting timing is also sometimes required. But as in his 3rd video basically a vacuum gauge and screwdriver is about all needed for the basic tuning.
@@LandonRoy-cv9rt Thank you for your reply. Sorry for the long delay before a reply, but I some how missed it and just found it a few minutes ago. This had been so long ago, I went back and re-watched part 1 & 2 to refresh my mind since I've watched thousands of video's over the years. In MY opinion the part 1 and 2 could have been in MUCH more detail. I even watched the 3rd video that for some reason that took a long time before posting, but I'm sure he stays busy are maybe forgot to post it but it is ok for a beginner. I admit for the average person this most likely would be a great video to go by other than they just need to make sure all ports are open after cleaning before the reassembly. I am not suggesting anyone not try and do the same thing as he did and they'd be ok with the results. Maybe I'm a bit OCD, but the rust and corrosion got to me along with him not showing a through cleaning of ports and many other things. I did click like on his videos, because for the average person this would be good enough for a rebuild.
👍
Excellent directions on rebuilding a quadrajet.. going to do mine with this lesson right along side me. thanks
👍
Just FYI for everyone please use the float level in your rebuild for your specific model. I have a 1977 Trans Am and the 4 bbl quad in the California edition is 13/32" float level. I set it to 1/8" and it was running rich as hell... And I know because I have to smog it...
Definitely a good idea to check out your specific Quadrajet model's settings. Most are good starting at 1/8", but you bring up a good point with the California smog-legal carbs.
Really appreciate the video brother it was a real lifesaver
that choke link (bent rod) just magically shows in your video, just after inserting the inlet filter. It wasn't there before. You must have gone back, torn the upper air horn apart from the main body, then connected them....there's no way to get them connected after. Thanks alot!
Yeah no shit! I couldn't figure that out for the life of me! It was pretty fustrating
Today is 03/02/22. If you are reading this, it is much later than the video was posted. There is a way to reassemble the choke rod and actuator with air-horn installed. Use a piece of copper wire. Very small, so it is just a little too big to fit between actuator arm and rod. Leave enough length to pull out wire when done, about 6 inches. Mark the rod with sharpie by holding on outside of carb body to get approximate distance you will need to feed into carb for alignment with choke. Then feed the arm and actuator through air horn, then gasket, into body. Slide out choke assembly far enough to get actuator close to position. Then fiddle. Fiddle with it some more. After a few tries (takes me average four or so) you will get lucky and slide the choke through the actuator arm. This process takes two or three minutes compared to twenty to thirty minutes to remove and reinstall air horn. Good Luck!
9:28 I found the check ball that you forgot to install.
HAHAHAHA right on cue!
Thank you very much sir 👌 this helped very much even though my carb was a different 4 barrel. Great vid
👍
How is it doing?
I would mention the primary holes in the base plate should be blown out and inspected closely I've seen dirt get in those and after the rebuild it won't idle properly and generally runs terrible sometimes it's necessary to run a fine wire in and out of all the holes to be sure. Just a suggestion from experience.
Thank you for so much for the video I'm going to try to rebuild mine never did it before I got the kit but I think with your knowledge I can do it
Thanks very much. Well done tutorial!
Thank you. I hope it was helpful for you and thanks for watching.
I leave the accelerator pump arm on the airhorn. No need to remove it, can easily assemble the bottom, first put the rod in the hole of the arm, then position throttle plate onto carb, done it on every quad version.
My float height is 15/32 from the reman. maybe you should post a float chart and set them correctly.
Lief Erickson that seems excessive, you still got fuel in the bowl at the end of a 1/4 mile at WOT?
Part 3! Part 3! Part 3!
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
THANK for the great vid.
I need to know what is the purpose of the criss cross line( like a checker plate )on the throttle plates of most of the carburetor like the ROCHESTER QUAD ?
thank you very much
thanks its relay helped me nice and easy guide. all 3 parts.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
I have question I really appreciate the help! Excellent video by the way. My question is, I went to fire up my boat it has this carburetor after I put the kit on. But gas was shooting out the carburetor worse than before! When I turned it over. Any idea as to why? After I put the rebuild kit on
Choke rod, slide it in with carb laying on its side, choke mount surface up. Line up the lower arm, slip on the choke housing.
Just rebuilt my quadrajet. It is leaking fuel from the top of the accelerator pump. Do you know why/ any tips what to check? Thanks
Great video it gave me the courage to give this a shot & was very helpful to me, thank you! If the wells were leaking how or what would be used to repair them?
Can you take that computer Quadjet 1986..87
Chevy Caprice...where I got one or same carb.. electric
Can you OMIT the TPS...and computer module...and transfer it to a 1978 truck CARB....without those two details
After watching this im going to overhaul mine
You got this!!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much for watching and commenting.
What does the pad in the well do?
my secondary throats do not seal is there a product to help like permatex
part 3?? perhaps fine tuning adjustment on car?
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Is this the same with a 2 barrel? I have 2 barrel 210 dual jet
Cleaning the dirty carb ?
So on the primary meter rod, mine doesnt have a point tip and the spring is missing so I'm thinking its stuck in there, I'm going to install it how it is, is this a bad idea?
Hello, my spring for my primary metering rods is a little stiff and pushes the rods back out after I put them in. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Great video
I almost subscribed, til I found out part 3 was missing.
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Did I miss something??? You didn't mention CLEANING in part 1, 2, or 3...why not??
I thought the same thing lol. All the pieces I can fit in my ultrasonic cleaner get a long cook in there.
Edited check ball comes in at 9:30 like a ghost!
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Is this carb rebuild you've done here, the same as my Rochester 4 bbl on my 1988 Volvo Penta V-6?
great job wish you were in ct.
Wanting to rebuild my carb on my truck. Numbers I pulled from the quadrajet is 17086045. I used carbsnation to find the particular model. Would like to order the kit from you guys though and not sure which one will fit my model. Could you lmk which kit will fir that carb? and also does your kits come with the floats and pins? thanks
If you actually take a shot of tequila every time he says "actually", by the end of the video you actually don't remember what the video is actually about and you can actually be drunk enough to actually not be able to actually re-assemble your carb and actually drive home.
That's why I stick with beer
0hffhfhdvnvbcc
👍
Does anyone know what part number for the rebuild kit he use?
www.carburetor-parts.com/Rochester-Quadrajet-Carburetor-Kit--70-74-Cadillac-73-76-Chevy-GMC-68-76-Olds_p_704.html
Ok man. 2019 is here and I’m waiting on part three to see if everything worked out. And how to tune. I’m worried that the rebuild may not have worked out right. Knock Knock. Anyone home? Elllo? 😂
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Hey where is part III I'm excited to see how to tune the quad?!!
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
9:25 check ball magically reappears. Watch bottom right on the screen.
It's the magic check-ball. :) Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews Haha. Great videos by the way. I had to rebuild my first Quadrajet from a 305 Mercruiser. Runs like a top thanks to these videos.
Are the components in the rebuild kit resistant to alcohol?
Yes, they are.
ha young fellow were did you put that steel ball at ? if you forgot that I know it didn't run rite. please give that info. Shop Kenny.
kenneth rippy I forgot it initially, but I come back to it and mention this in the video. you'll see at about 8:10, I show putting in the check ball and screw.
I rebuild the carburetor and I cant adjust idle. What did I do wrong.
Without seeing the carb or the car, my first suggestion would be a vacuum leak.
where is part 3
Part 3 is up. ruclips.net/video/Nbih0zm_Ldw/видео.html
Still no part 3. People probably given up by now x)
But I'm still hoping for it to come up soon since I'm about to tear mine apart.
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Hello......these are great but .......... where is part 3 thanks
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
where did you get the carb rebuild kit?
www.carburetor-parts.com/
I see you are reinstalling parts that you never filmed removal of like the jets, check ball, float, needle and seat, metering roods etc. Where is part 3?
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Forgot the accelerator pump cup garter spring? Great job though, it's a little tedious the 1st few times.
Very helpful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great job! I can't find part 3? Where is it?
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
great video
👍
Still waiting on part 3
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Very attentive to accuracy and details.
I hate those paper filters, seen them fall apart. I like the Mercruiser fuel filter for this.
Why doesn't my choke spring stay open like that???!!!
The choke blade should stay closed until at operating temp (~160F). Once at operating temp, then the blade should be fully open. If either is not true, then it probably just needs adjusting.
Nice video but I wanted to see how the cleaning process went as well.
Sorry about that. Thanks for watching.
I had a serious issue with the float pin. Friends carb is flooding out, so I rebuild it. I find the needle valve laying in float bowl !! I never seen it before. I put it together, carb instantly floods out again. Take air horn off, needle valve is jammed up out of place, weird. Then I am watching another video on quadrajets, the U shaped float pin can get squashed too flat, that can cause the entire float to lift up at the pin and jam the needle causing a flood. So I expand the pin open and will test it again this Sunday. That pin, when you put the air horn on the carb, should slightly keep airhorn lifted off the main body. That way you know when you screw it together the pin will be held down tight . If it still floods I give up as otherwise, nothing makes any sense. But I think that is what happened, the pin somehow closed in on itself. No one has messed with that carb in many years, It is on a boat, a Tiara Pursuit from the mid 80's. I have no idea how the pin could warp-bend, it takes a lot of force to open the pin up.
Where is the part 3?
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
6 minutes in and thank god for efi
Still no part 3??😔
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
O poo i went ahead and followed all of this so far and now im at a stand still what to do next sr
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Part 3?
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
I think you forgot to replace the gasket to the seat
Hold the light in front of the camera..perfect. Oh, I also forgot…🤣
I can't be perfect all the time. lol. Thanks for watching.
Where the heck is part 3.
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
i really dont get the wd40. Its just a preference
It's a simple lube that most people have.
@@Shoptoolreviews most people have sex lube also
he said lube and didn't miss a beat
How many parts is this guy going to forget to install before he restarts the video? 8:00 he forgets the excelerator pump plunger lmao
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where is part 3????????????????????????????????????????????
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Three Phillips screws....
As you can see here...😐 no actually I cant. Something like this requires a close up lens or macro camera
Maybe you can show us how. Thanks for watching.
We are in 18 minutes and 18 seconds, and the pump is laying on the table
First time here folks, how the hell do you clean the damn thing?????????????????????????? Its nasty inside.
Wearing a watch inside a workshop is a major safety violence, and you made more confused about carb.
This workshop is ours, and we don't have a rule against watches or rings. However, I fully understand and support any that do.
Make it look easy ,I got to much play in the shaft (thats what she said) lol Thanks
lol. Thanks for watching.
Well I’m guessing they screwed that carburetor up so bad that they are too embarrassed to show us in part 3. Why else would they not finish this project.
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Well, you skipped over some rather essential stuff, stuff that should not have been skipped over. Things like removing the jets, carefully so it's not to mess them up as many people do, removing the needle seat without losing the washer, and cleaning out all of the tiny little passageways, that is the reason most quadrajets begin to fail. There's a lot more information that should have been passed on to the viewer missing from this video series. Don't get me wrong, the effort is certainly appreciated, but the details that were skipped over are critical in a carburetor rebuild.
Also, you had fuel in the intake, therefore the plugs must have been leaking.
And lastly, it's important to save the old gaskets and match them up with the new ones, looking at both sides to make sure no new holes are exposed and no old holes are blocked. All quadrajets are not the same, and some have different gaskets than others.
no part 3 really sucks some help but useless with out final outcome
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No part 3. The guy must have died. Too bad, this is good information.
bit.ly/2OShyAQ
Looks to me like a whole bunch of work to simply take the carb apart, squirting some WD40 here and there then putting it back together. So many ways to screw up the carb for so little actual “ rebuild”.
My guess is that they put it on the car which ran like crap then put on a Holley to fix it. Thus no part 3
No mixture control solenoid? How thorough of you. God damn in fucking over you tube.
What year carb are you dealing with? If it has the mixture control solenoid,then I'm assuming 1980s, maybe?! I'll be glad to help, if I can.