i've watched a ton of adjustment videos and your the only one that does it right fully collapsed and not fumbling around with three wrenches. that split rocker looks nice but to much work for me
Thank you. I have a video on how to split them. It's not to bad if you can get welding done cheap. You can cut them with a Sawzall or a die grinder. It would be a lot more sanding but it's doable cheap.
Thanks for the video.. I have a clymer book.. Doesnt say anything about releasing the pressure on the check valve.. Sounds like a good idea.. It does say 1 3/4 turns out for earlier models... and 1 1/2 for late models.. I have a 71.. Also says to clean out oil from hydraulic... I know each tapet should be on the heel of the cam right before lifter pushes up to adjust.. I tried using the blue seals and cant get the clips on so I ordered cork seals recomended by my friend.... So i need to start over.. I think the one i have already done may be wrong because of the hydraulic might not be all the down because of the check valve.. Thanks for the tip...
If you are adjusting a shovel this is how it’s done regardless of what pushrods you have. This also holds true for Evo motors if you don’t know who makes the pushrods. Different manufacturers have different thread pitches so 3 turns can be a different amount of adjustment depending on the thread pitch.
I just picked up a 73 shovel rebuilt the butterfly and it fired right up. The plug looked lean so I put in an 88 low jet I left the 165 as the main. After it got hot I shut it down and drained the engine oil, cleaned out the the tank. The bike has spin on crome external oil filter and an oil cooler. Should I use 50w or 60w, some say 20/50. Also the bike hasn't been.washed in 12 years, what is the best product to use to get the paint and engine clean. I removed the bags to look better the rear crome rim is black with grease, I need a good product I can spray on the bike to help break down the dirt and oil. After I clean it I want to check the valves like you showed us.
First, thank you for watching. I you are planning on riding it in the winter and it's below 50 degrees I would run 20/50. So soon as it's over 50 degrees I run straight 60W. As for washing the bike S-100 makes two spray and wash products. One for paint/chrome and one for the wheels. These work great and I get them from my local H-D dealer. If not Spray 9 works great with the wheels and a tooth brush. It also works great on grease. I wouldn't use it on the paint. I guess any car wash works on the paint. Please subscribe... Thx
My H-D book for my 67 says to bring the pushrod ball to the tappet cup & then 4 full turns down.... I've heard others says to completely collapse the springs and the bring it back 3 1/4 - 3 1/2 turns... not sure which is correct but its diff than what your saying..
I clearly show my factory manual in the video that says collapse it fully then back 1 1/2 turns. The problem with taking it from just touching then 4 turns is different pushrods had different thread counts. The way I show it will work for any Harley that has stock style lifters. The thread count doesn't matter as mush because your only talking about a very small amount back turn.
Thanks this was really helpful. I just got an S&S top end kit for my 83 FXR and came here to see how to remove my pushrods. I’ve got a question the kit came with paper base and rocker box gaskets but copper head gaskets. My old motor had a base gasket leak and a paper gasket there. Do you think it’s ok to use the paper gaskets?
Hey man, great video. I have my shovel for about 2 years now with hyd pushrods. Should I be disassembling it to adjust the pushrods even though it seems like its all good? Are hydraulic pushrods a "set and forget" type deal? I don't want to fuck with it if it isn't broke ya know? I know with solids you should check them every so often. Thanks for the advice man.
I'd most likely leave them alone since they are set and forget. I agree with you when you said don't touch it if it's not broken. Thank you for the positive feedback on the video.
Hey man, great video. I just attempted to do my 79. I got the pushrods out and pulled up on the plungers. They came out but the cups with the check balls are still in the tappet blocks. How do I get them out? I already cleaned the screen and spring area of the oil hole on corner of case. thanks
@@MrGideskog are you able to spin it? is it galled in? Maybe it's just suction from the oil. I would try blowing some compressed air into it. Be careful it doesn't come shooting out. Maybe wrap it in a rag. You could also spray it with some penetrant oil and let it soak. Let me know how you make out. You can contact me direct at my email hdrap_1999@yahoo.com
You want your tappets dry when you adjust them. Like I show in my video. Oil in the cam chest isn’t gonna matter, but there is a check that’s supposed to hold oil in the oil tank until the pump starts to turn. When this check doesn’t hold the oil up in the oil tank, that’s when you have the summing issues. So to answer your question, oil in the cam chest isn’t a problem when you’re adjusting your lifters. I hope this answers your question if it didn’t, please let me know.
The Shovel Head pushrod assembly is different from the Evo. The Evo has nothing between the pushrod and the lifter. The end of the pushrod goes into the lifter. I’ve never dealt with a Shovel Head. So the procedure is still the same?
You are correct if your Evo has the factory pushrods. The factory pushrods on the Evo are not adjustable. The simplest way to do a cam change on an Evo is to cut the stock pushrods with bolt cutters to remove them. (If you don't cut the factory pushrods you have to remove the rocker boxes to remove the pushrods.) Then you buy a set of adjustable pushrods for the new cam and follow this video procedure. If you keep the factory pushrods be careful to put them back into the correct position since they are 4 different lengths. It's much less work to replace the pushrods with the adjustable style then to remove the rocker box covers. Note: I use bolt cutters since anything else will make metal dust and it could get into the engine.
@@Rapsgarage Thanks for the info. Just one more question. I dropped my lifters out of the box on the front set and have no idea the order they were in. They are Jim’s Hydrosolids and they are in excellent shape. Is there anyway possible to tell the order they were in? Will it destroy my cam if not put back in the right order? Thanks for your help.
Not at all. The reason they are to be keep in position is not only the cam and wheels but the tappet block bores. Now that they are mixed up you just have to stick them in and run it. Guys who didn't know have been mixing them up for years and don't have problems.
I always raise intake in front and adjust the rear intake, raise the front exhaust and adjust the rear exhaust and do it this way way for 40 years. not at TDC. Never had a problem. Let it bleed down until you can spin the push rod , then rotate to do the next one and so on. Front up and back at lowest point, do it this way for all four. 24 flats down when all up n down looseness is taken up.
That's the way I learned to do it on my Small Block Chevy but I prefer the way I do it on the video for my Harley's. Thank you for the comment and watching. If your not subscribed... Please do. Thx
It’s the oil lines because I split the rocker boxes. Funny I think it looks AWESOME! I did all that work myself including splitting the rocker boxes. Thanks for watching please like and subscribe.
@@Rapsgarage I’ve done it both ways, one being the way you showed and the other is if memory serves me right is 3 1/2 turns down from pushrod just touching lifter. Just let them bleed down before moving to next cyl.
@@TheDesmoto only problem with that is the thread count can be different with different brands of pushrods. The way I do it in this video it doesn’t matter what the thread pitch is. Thank you for the comment.
Wow that is the best explanation I've found on RUclips for hydraulic lifters. Thank you. And the bike looks great too.
Glad it was helpful! Please like and subscribe if you haven’t. Thanks for watching!
Great video dude, it’s nice to see someone giving guidance on ole shovelhead motors. Keep up the cool videos. Ride safe my friend 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate it.
Great educational video!! its a refresher course for me !!! it was 30 years the last time I rebuilt a shovel!!!👍
Thank you
Good on ya mate , well put together video
Thanks 👍
Nice vid....I like the 8 flats bit ..yeah vice grips mark the rods.... thanks for your great advice 🇦🇺
I’m glad it help. Thank you
Thanks for the great information.. I did my valve adjustments it works perfectly.
Awesome! Thanks for watching
Good one will do my set now
Exactly how I do them too but, I like seeing your stuff so I still enjoyed the video 👍
Cool! Thank you for watching.
Great video on hydraulic lifters !!
Thank you
Good vid and nice looking motor.
Thank you I appreciate it.
Excellent
i've watched a ton of adjustment videos and your the only one that does it right fully collapsed and not fumbling around with three wrenches. that split rocker looks nice but to much work for me
Thank you. I have a video on how to split them. It's not to bad if you can get welding done cheap. You can cut them with a Sawzall or a die grinder. It would be a lot more sanding but it's doable cheap.
Watching these videos makes me know more and more about less and less😂
Thanks for the video..
I have a clymer book..
Doesnt say anything about releasing the pressure on the check valve..
Sounds like a good idea..
It does say 1 3/4 turns out for earlier models... and 1 1/2 for late models..
I have a 71..
Also says to clean out oil from hydraulic...
I know each tapet should be on the heel of the cam right before lifter pushes up to adjust..
I tried using the blue seals and cant get the clips on so I ordered cork seals recomended by my friend....
So i need to start over..
I think the one i have already done may be wrong because of the hydraulic might not be all the down because of the check valve..
Thanks for the tip...
Glad it was helpful!
So I guess that's with the stock pushrods? I've seen adjustments vary with aftermarket ones depending on the thread pitch.
If you are adjusting a shovel this is how it’s done regardless of what pushrods you have. This also holds true for Evo motors if you don’t know who makes the pushrods. Different manufacturers have different thread pitches so 3 turns can be a different amount of adjustment depending on the thread pitch.
I just picked up a 73 shovel rebuilt the butterfly and it fired right up. The plug looked lean so I put in an 88 low jet I left the 165 as the main. After it got hot I shut it down and drained the engine oil, cleaned out the the tank. The bike has spin on crome external oil filter and an oil cooler. Should I use 50w or 60w, some say 20/50. Also the bike hasn't been.washed in 12 years, what is the best product to use to get the paint and engine clean. I removed the bags to look better the rear crome rim is black with grease, I need a good product I can spray on the bike to help break down the dirt and oil. After I clean it I want to check the valves like you showed us.
First, thank you for watching. I you are planning on riding it in the winter and it's below 50 degrees I would run 20/50. So soon as it's over 50 degrees I run straight 60W. As for washing the bike S-100 makes two spray and wash products. One for paint/chrome and one for the wheels. These work great and I get them from my local H-D dealer. If not Spray 9 works great with the wheels and a tooth brush. It also works great on grease. I wouldn't use it on the paint. I guess any car wash works on the paint. Please subscribe... Thx
My H-D book for my 67 says to bring the pushrod ball to the tappet cup & then 4 full turns down.... I've heard others says to completely collapse the springs and the bring it back 3 1/4 - 3 1/2 turns... not sure which is correct but its diff than what your saying..
I clearly show my factory manual in the video that says collapse it fully then back 1 1/2 turns. The problem with taking it from just touching then 4 turns is different pushrods had different thread counts. The way I show it will work for any Harley that has stock style lifters. The thread count doesn't matter as mush because your only talking about a very small amount back turn.
Thanks this was really helpful. I just got an S&S top end kit for my 83 FXR and came here to see how to remove my pushrods. I’ve got a question the kit came with paper base and rocker box gaskets but copper head gaskets. My old motor had a base gasket leak and a paper gasket there. Do you think it’s ok to use the paper gaskets?
I only use that have metal in the middle. I only use James gaskets. Sorry I took so lone to answer.
Do you need to be on TDC for each cylinder while installing each pair or just front cylinder for them all?
Each cylinder needs to be on it’s TDC. The procedure is the same but on the other cylinder’s TDC.
👍👍 also me like to see one video on solid lifters
With solid lifters you just adjust them out until they touch lightly but you are still able to spin the pushrod freely and lock the nut.
Hey man, great video. I have my shovel for about 2 years now with hyd pushrods. Should I be disassembling it to adjust the pushrods even though it seems like its all good? Are hydraulic pushrods a "set and forget" type deal? I don't want to fuck with it if it isn't broke ya know? I know with solids you should check them every so often. Thanks for the advice man.
I'd most likely leave them alone since they are set and forget. I agree with you when you said don't touch it if it's not broken. Thank you for the positive feedback on the video.
How about for the back cylinder? Do i put the back piston on the top? Or just follow the front piston on top?
I do the rear the same as the front. I find TDC and then I set the pushrods. Thank you for watching.
Hey man, great video. I just attempted to do my 79. I got the pushrods out and pulled up on the plungers. They came out but the cups with the check balls are still in the tappet blocks. How do I get them out? I already cleaned the screen and spring area of the oil hole on corner of case. thanks
contact me at hdrap_1999@yahoo.com
I need an answer to this also
@@Rapsgarage i need some advice here aswell, my intake checkball cup is still stuck in the tappet
@@MrGideskog are you able to spin it? is it galled in? Maybe it's just suction from the oil. I would try blowing some compressed air into it. Be careful it doesn't come shooting out. Maybe wrap it in a rag. You could also spray it with some penetrant oil and let it soak. Let me know how you make out. You can contact me direct at my email hdrap_1999@yahoo.com
hola mismo procedimiento para la cabeza tracera
Yes
Not sure if you’ll see this but I just filled my oil bag and now I have oil in the cam chest. Should I drain it to ensure no oil gets in the tappets?
You want your tappets dry when you adjust them. Like I show in my video. Oil in the cam chest isn’t gonna matter, but there is a check that’s supposed to hold oil in the oil tank until the pump starts to turn. When this check doesn’t hold the oil up in the oil tank, that’s when you have the summing issues. So to answer your question, oil in the cam chest isn’t a problem when you’re adjusting your lifters. I hope this answers your question if it didn’t, please let me know.
@@Rapsgarage great thank you. Now next tip: how the hell do I get these damn push rod cover clips back in?! Haha.
I use a flat blade screwdriver but they sell a cheap tool on eBay
I find TDC on each cylinder
Great video, thanks
Thank you
So the back is TDC too?
Yes, each cylinder has to be on it’s own TDC on the compression stroke.
8 flats not 9. Good video. I'd like to see one on solid lifters.
Thank you.
With solid lifters you just adjust them out until they touch lightly but you are still able to spin the pushrod freely and lock the nut.
The Shovel Head pushrod assembly is different from the Evo. The Evo has nothing between the pushrod and the lifter. The end of the pushrod goes into the lifter. I’ve never dealt with a Shovel Head. So the procedure is still the same?
You are correct if your Evo has the factory pushrods. The factory pushrods on the Evo are not adjustable. The simplest way to do a cam change on an Evo is to cut the stock pushrods with bolt cutters to remove them. (If you don't cut the factory pushrods you have to remove the rocker boxes to remove the pushrods.) Then you buy a set of adjustable pushrods for the new cam and follow this video procedure. If you keep the factory pushrods be careful to put them back into the correct position since they are 4 different lengths. It's much less work to replace the pushrods with the adjustable style then to remove the rocker box covers.
Note: I use bolt cutters since anything else will make metal dust and it could get into the engine.
@@Rapsgarage Thanks for the info. Just one more question. I dropped my lifters out of the box on the front set and have no idea the order they were in. They are Jim’s Hydrosolids and they are in excellent shape. Is there anyway possible to tell the order they were in? Will it destroy my cam if not put back in the right order? Thanks for your help.
Not at all. The reason they are to be keep in position is not only the cam and wheels but the tappet block bores. Now that they are mixed up you just have to stick them in and run it. Guys who didn't know have been mixing them up for years and don't have problems.
@@Rapsgarage Thanks for your help. That gives me great relief. I really appreciate your videos and knowledge you pass along.
Thank you for the complement.
I always raise intake in front and adjust the rear intake, raise the front exhaust and adjust the rear exhaust and do it this way way for 40 years. not at TDC. Never had a problem. Let it bleed down until you can spin the push rod , then rotate to do the next one and so on. Front up and back at lowest point, do it this way for all four. 24 flats down when all up n down looseness is taken up.
That's the way I learned to do it on my Small Block Chevy but I prefer the way I do it on the video for my Harley's. Thank you for the comment and watching. If your not subscribed... Please do. Thx
What is with all that copper tubing...sorry but that look bad
It’s the oil lines because I split the rocker boxes. Funny I think it looks AWESOME! I did all that work myself including splitting the rocker boxes. Thanks for watching please like and subscribe.
Good video
Thank you for watching. Please subscribe.
Nice completely opposite of other's..go from full btm and count backwards
Thank you. I just followed the manual.
@@Rapsgarage I’ve done it both ways, one being the way you showed and the other is if memory serves me right is 3 1/2 turns down from pushrod just touching lifter. Just let them bleed down before moving to next cyl.
@@TheDesmoto only problem with that is the thread count can be different with different brands of pushrods. The way I do it in this video it doesn’t matter what the thread pitch is. Thank you for the comment.
@@Rapsgarage agreed, i was referring to stock pushrods. there's also a checker tool/ distance tool that one could use.
@@TheDesmoto I’ve never heard of that. I never seen that in any manual I’ve read. Interesting. Learn something every day.