I would just like to say that i have stumpled across your vidoes and you should be commended for the time you take to explian everything and how you manage to get over any obstacle, wish i could be like you..excellent
Another success. I’ve borrowed the towel idea for my rebuild of a Moulton Bike. So far it’s saved me hunting on the floor for some dropped head stock bearings 👍👍
Yup. Catches all sort of things that would ping off into oblivion otherwise and soaks up all sorts of gunk. Only downside is things get caught in them and they give off fluff. So I'm still looking for a good soft, lint free, washable, durable work surface.
Ah they can all run again with the parts and a little persuasion. If you need it re-wheeled or pickups added to tender to impove running over points etc you know where to send it.
I absolutely love your videos and the great results you get, bringing ailing models back to life. Only question is about phrase "Ivatt Class Locomotive'? Henry George Ivatt designed a range of classes of locomotives, this one being the Class 2MT. So it's an Ivatt Class 2, as opposed to say an Ivatt class 4, or perhaps an Ivatt class 2, 2-6-2 tank engine. All said, keep up the great content. It's compelling viewing!
Hi, Bill. I really enjoyed the Hornby catalogue video, what a blast from the past! I was wearing flares an platform shoes at the time! Kind regards Dave Barnes
Again another good old school repair Nice one Bill Love the vids Regards from a Brit in 🇩🇪 ( with lots of old school locos ready for service and repair)
Nice restoration, good to see another old loco bought back to life. A tip to save on a bit more drag and wear is to remove the magnadhesion magnet as unless old steel track is being used it serves no purpose but does add extra drag to the wheels
Agreed. I've done this on my own locos. On other people's I tend to leave them as they are and fix what needs fixed as I don't know what they are running their locos on. My Flying Scotsman ran much better without the magnahesion magnet. It can be be a bugger to get out though!
Just seen your video of donated coaches. The three Clerestory coaches look like Triang/Hornby Short Clerestory coaches. I have been trying to collect some more of these for the Strathspey Railway Boat of Garten layout, which we will be installing at Boat soon in the Island Waiting room. If you don't want them , would you donate?
Hi Bill. Re brass screwdriver, try an aerospace tool supplier, they’re used in areas where you don’t want any magnetism from the blade eg compass adjustments. Best, TonyS
Adding pickups to the tender a good idea yes. Those larger flanges lift the loco over points killing the connection so extra pickup via the tender a good solution.
Bill, I have a question regarding Ho/Oo scale differences. With respect to the loco/wagon modelled width, isn't the wheel width incorrect on Oo compared to Ho? Also, how about wheel flange width for accuracy?
Nice work once again! Bill, where do you source your spare parts for the type of motor seen in this loco? I have an Airfix loco with very worn motor bearings. I balanced the rotor, that helped some. Thank you!
Love your work. Please let me know what is the name of the product in the spray can with the long yellow dispenser (not sure if that is the right term) attached. Cheers Greg
I don’t understand the furore around using a brass brush to clean wheels. My rotary tool has a pretty slow speed and if you’re gentle / don’t go too mad so you don’t mark the metal then what’s the issue?
A brass brush does not damage the wheels. In fact it can be beneficial in polishing out imperfections on old wheels. Brand new wheels and wheels in top condition can be cleaned with a solvent but any in grained dirt needs more. The battering wheels take on the track causes much more damage than a brass brush.
Email me via the address in the "About" tab in my channel. Please keep in mind I'm only entertaining DC, OO Gauge locos at the moment. You need to give me details of the loco in question including photos and running issue symptoms.
@@thomasm1964 thanks must of missed that bit. Thought his supplier might of been petes spares but do you know of any mainline suppliers need to find a replacement mainline G W R 062 tank engine baseplate regards sam woodward
I would just like to say that i have stumpled across your vidoes and you should be commended for the time you take to explian everything and how you manage to get over any obstacle, wish i could be like you..excellent
Another success. I’ve borrowed the towel idea for my rebuild of a Moulton Bike. So far it’s saved me hunting on the floor for some dropped head stock bearings 👍👍
Yup. Catches all sort of things that would ping off into oblivion otherwise and soaks up all sorts of gunk. Only downside is things get caught in them and they give off fluff. So I'm still looking for a good soft, lint free, washable, durable work surface.
Fantastic I honestly didn't think it would run again well chuffed one for keeping 😀
Ah they can all run again with the parts and a little persuasion. If you need it re-wheeled or pickups added to tender to impove running over points etc you know where to send it.
I absolutely love your videos and the great results you get, bringing ailing models back to life. Only question is about phrase "Ivatt Class Locomotive'? Henry George Ivatt designed a range of classes of locomotives, this one being the Class 2MT. So it's an Ivatt Class 2, as opposed to say an Ivatt class 4, or perhaps an Ivatt class 2, 2-6-2 tank engine. All said, keep up the great content. It's compelling viewing!
excellent video... i have this loco too (made 1975) and mine has never put a foot wrong... cheers Neil
Hi, Bill. I really enjoyed the Hornby catalogue video, what a blast from the past! I was wearing flares an platform shoes at the time! Kind regards Dave Barnes
We're you wearing those watching the video?? 😉
Again another good old school repair
Nice one Bill
Love the vids
Regards from a Brit in 🇩🇪
( with lots of old school locos ready for service and repair)
Nice restoration, good to see another old loco bought back to life. A tip to save on a bit more drag and wear is to remove the magnadhesion magnet as unless old steel track is being used it serves no purpose but does add extra drag to the wheels
Agreed. I've done this on my own locos. On other people's I tend to leave them as they are and fix what needs fixed as I don't know what they are running their locos on. My Flying Scotsman ran much better without the magnahesion magnet. It can be be a bugger to get out though!
Just seen your video of donated coaches. The three Clerestory coaches look like Triang/Hornby Short Clerestory coaches. I have been trying to collect some more of these for the Strathspey Railway Boat of Garten layout, which we will be installing at Boat soon in the Island Waiting room. If you don't want them , would you donate?
Hi Bill. Re brass screwdriver, try an aerospace tool supplier, they’re used in areas where you don’t want any magnetism from the blade eg compass adjustments. Best, TonyS
Another well done in depth repair mate, looked quite complex 😎
Thank you. Always very interesting to watch you doing this kind of thing.
I have the same loco running on code 100 track. I cured the stalling issue by adding pick ups to the pony. Runs fine now
I like your picture. I love the Class 502 and 503 EMU's. :)
Adding pickups to the tender a good idea yes. Those larger flanges lift the loco over points killing the connection so extra pickup via the tender a good solution.
@@Cthulhu1970 am a member of the group restoring the 502 at Burscough ruclips.net/video/-Bca88KtpYo/видео.html
Another great resurrection job, I love watching you getting these locos back up and running
Hi Bill, Nice one, Where do you keep your magic wands, You do a grand job, All the Best Brian
I've always fancied one of these. Nice wee engines. I guess you could've "lent" it the tender from your green Ivatt...
Bill, I have a question regarding Ho/Oo scale differences. With respect to the loco/wagon modelled width, isn't the wheel width incorrect on Oo compared to Ho?
Also, how about wheel flange width for accuracy?
A nice job. The flangeless centre drivers should make curves no problem.
Great video again and fantastic repair, I am sure the owner will be over the moon. Keep up the great work :)
As per usual Bill really informative
Great video. Have you got a link for your wire strippers?
I am going to get some of the contract cleaner
Look up "Am-Tech B4265 2-in-1 Wire Stripper" and Cutter on Amazon
@@oobill thanks just ordered some
Nice work once again! Bill, where do you source your spare parts for the type of motor seen in this loco? I have an Airfix loco with very worn motor bearings. I balanced the rotor, that helped some. Thank you!
Nice fix Bill 👍🏻 What’s the gear oil your using? 😀
Hob-e-lube HL655. Its basically a thicker oil and is supposed to be sticky. Not sure about that though.
Where did you get the tool from to pull the worm gear
I would also like to know that
The worm puller tool fairies...aka eBay
Love your work. Please let me know what is the name of the product in the spray can with the long yellow dispenser (not sure if that is the right term) attached. Cheers Greg
Hi Greg. It is Contact Cleaner. ( In this case WD40 contact cleaner NOT Normal WD40 lubricant).
WD40 Contact Cleaner. Available in most hardware shops. Brilliant stuff for cleaning and degreasing.
Got mine from Halfords.
I don’t understand the furore around using a brass brush to clean wheels. My rotary tool has a pretty slow speed and if you’re gentle / don’t go too mad so you don’t mark the metal then what’s the issue?
A brass brush does not damage the wheels. In fact it can be beneficial in polishing out imperfections on old wheels. Brand new wheels and wheels in top condition can be cleaned with a solvent but any in grained dirt needs more. The battering wheels take on the track causes much more damage than a brass brush.
@@oobill Exactly my thinking - not sure why others have an issue with it.
Beautiful rebuild. Well done
only one question, where did you get your nut/worm drive puller from. looks very useful.
eBay
Hi Bill, where did you get that combi nipper/stripper please?
Look up "Am-Tech B4265 2-in-1 Wire Stripper" and Cutter on Amazon
I have a few BR black early crest Bachmann Ivatt 2mts and I'm looking at shifting one or two of them as I don't need four 😂
I'd be interested in one. :)
@@Cthulhu1970 do you use Facebook? That would be the best way to get hold of me 👍
@@scottishrailwaymaniac9996 Yes indeed. Who am I looking for? :)
A good way of cleaning the worm gear (if needed) is to use some dental floss, ideally the one on a frame
Very interesting bill nice job 👏
Bill,how can i actually send you a loco?
Email me via the address in the "About" tab in my channel. Please keep in mind I'm only entertaining DC, OO Gauge locos at the moment. You need to give me details of the loco in question including photos and running issue symptoms.
me again lol do you know off any thing that break up super glue .. look forwards to your videos
Yes, you can get super glue debonder which deactivates it.
I replaced the wire pickup on mine with phosphor bronze strip
were do you get your spares regards sam woodward
Bill mentioned Peter’s Spares towards the beginning of the video.
@@thomasm1964 peters spares are or seams to be closed or you have to e mail them
@@eckhenderson8036 they are still going as I rang them yesterday
@@eckhenderson8036 This is what their website says: www.petersspares.com/
@@thomasm1964 thanks must of missed that bit. Thought his supplier might of been petes spares but do you know of any mainline suppliers need to find a replacement mainline G W R 062 tank engine baseplate regards sam woodward
Another satisfied owner ;)
just subed
ive got one of these, it runs pretty quiet, so if it aint broke !!!
Make a screwdriver out a of cut off rail file end to a blade ,
Hey that's a good idea. Cheers!