Hornby R041 GWR Class 57xx Pannier: Repair Request
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Another repair request from Peter. This old Pannier tank sounds like a food mixer.
Thanks again to Peter for the donations.
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Hi Bill, just wanted to say a big “thank you” for creating this video and for educating me. This morning I used your video to clean and lubricate my 1975 Hornby R.041 GWR Pannier Tanker, which hadn’t run in over 20years. It ran very poorly today but not now, after your magic, runs smoothly and quite quietly. I’m so grateful to you. This was a 1975 Christmas present from my Mum, which I’ve kept. She’ll be pleased to see it running. Cheers, Mike
Gloves! My 76 year old fingers could not cope with gloves. They are pin-pricked, cut, filed smooth, stained with glue and oil and only hurt when General Winter opens cracks. My first memory of panniers is early 1950s at Paddington; two panniers having brought in ecs. blowing off with gay abandon.
These must be one of the most popular Hornby Loco's. 10 year old me had 2 of them. 59 year old me has two very battered loco's that have somehow survived at least 45 years of sporadic storage in various lofts and dark places! . But their time is coming again and a second life calls! There is a new loft and a new railway for me to build and they will both live again. Cannot tell you how fantastically useful this video is and how much confidence it has given me to realise that I will, in all probability, be able to get them, the 2 B12's, the two Halls and the other odds and sods all running again. When you get the new wheels sets for this Pannier tank, please could you do a PART 2 for us?? It was only when the crank pin nearly fell on the floor that I realised the wisdom of using a white towel to cover the bench rather than a nice clean shiny bench surface itself. Brilliant work Sir, thanks again!
There is something really satisfying watching your repairs and giving life to older models. As they say there is still life in the old dog yet!! Well done on another great and interesting video.
Well done Bill I hadn't unboxed it that long before I sent it to you,it was noisy when brand new in the mid 70s but always ran well until I boxed it back up in 1982 ! Well done again.
Yeah it was just dry and the rear bearing a little worn. Thanks again for gifting it it's really appreciated.
I still have mine from 1979. Oh many great hours of use, super loco. I watched this with great memories. Mine the top of the loco I front of the cab lifts off so you can see the motor without removing the same side screw.
My first loco in the 70’s, and still one of the best runners.
Hi Bill, the reason these model 060 G.W.R. tank engines some were fitted with smoke units including the early Jinty tanks, therefore you could not have a screw down the chimney. The smoke unit that was supplied to certain models only was and empty metal box that was fitted to where the weight is placed on your model. It was driven by a large gear wheel this engaged with the upper most side of the motor worm gear, it drove a simple piston that pumped air in to a chamber contain a small heater element and some kind of wool or cotton packing to soak up the steam oil, they worked quite well, they also made a longer smoke generator box for the 462s BoB for instance. The B12s some had a seuthe type brass tube smoke unit. I think they were all originally Tri-Ang models and Hornby took over the molds hence the smoke unit was not fitted and dropped and a weight placed instead. I still have some bits and pieces left in my spares box from those days. Great job on the pannier tank. Take care. Lorry
Wow 🤩 that’s the best one of those I’ve seen. Dr Bill does it Again. Great Result! Another Save from the Grave.
hi Bill great video, i have 2 of these pannier tanks,solid and reliable. coming from the 60s generation dad always said to look after the brushes and commutator and keep them clean even with the Triang dock shunter power bogie, always to be seen in the toy shops.some panniers came with a smoke generator.sadly to day toy shops as i remember them are no more
Got one myself with cleaning oiling etc works fine even after 40yyears love these locos all my stock is older than 10 years bar2 and all still run well
Hi Bill, Nice repair, can't wait for the re-wheeling, All the Best Brian
I loved the use of a 'Birmingham screwdriver' (hammer) to tap in the coupling rod pin.
Hi Bill, great video, have three of these and the all have the same unique sound. Had considered changing the body for that of a Jinty, as body fits on same just to have a “quieter” one. Solid tank from mid 70s and early 80s. Great with the smaller coaches. Looks fab on the layout… what’s in the mystery no??? Lol take care and thanks for the video.
Hi Bill another great video, currently got my eye on that loco through ebay. Thanks or is it tanks!!
Fantastic series of videos - picked up skills from you which are all transferrable to n-gauge and have 'rescued' a number of e-bay non runners; last one being a GWR Pannier tank! Great stuff Bill, thanks .....and well done.
Excellent video and a fantastic job - you certainly know what you are doing.
I bought one of these on eBay and the seller had said that, no matter what he did, he couldn't get it to run well. Other sellers had posted much the same. When the loco ran, it was hesitant and had to be given a nudge to run at times. I cleaned and oiled it and it ran fine on a test rig for a good while. I put the body back on and tried it on the layout. Same problem but fewer nudges needed. It ran better in reverse. I ran it for a 15 minutes or so and the performance improved in that time. By the end, it was running well.
If a loco runs fine without the body but has issues with the body on it's probably due to the body pressing on the wiring which can affect the positive brush. Keep the wires neat against the motor and it should be fine. My Ivatt Class 2 was bad for this until I fitted the Type 7 motor.
It looks like the pannier I sold a few months ago. And it had the same exact problem, hence why I sold it. Great video as always :O)
Hi Bill, the screw is at the side as some had a smoke unit fitted
Good luck with your new layout too. What a shame to have to demolish such a beautiful one.
Nice job bill, another keeper 👍looking forward to class 45 as I have one here I picked a while back as a non runner and haven't had a chance to look at it yet 😀
Hill bill , good vid as always , not sure if anyone has ever mentioned before, but too help with getting fiddly screws back into their holes , stick the screw onto the end of the screwdriver with a piece of bluetack , it’s helped me out many a time
I've given that very tip in previous videos. 😉 Quite a few of my loco body screws have blue tak in them. Didn't do it in this instance as I haven't any blu tak left. My dog ate the last blob. Keep forgetting to get more. Crucial stuff.
Just a few simple bits of maintenance transforms a loco performance.
Nice one Bill,i have a old Triang Jinty that has a screw in the side like that.
Fine job you did there :) Well done!
Hi oobill have been watching your videos and find them entertaining and informative especially for repair novices.If I can make one or two constructive suggestions from my past experience of repairs to triang and H/Dublo locos. If you have a noisy XO 4 motor as well as the rear bearing it's worth checking that the front ones not moving around due to the steel clip fastening loosing tention, I've found this quite a common occurrence.As to the wheelsets I've found the back to back measurement invariably too small causing problems on points etc. I've found if reset to 14mm b t b they run through almost anything.To achieve this just tap the axle on the Insulated side with a pin punch or similar drift to obtain 14mm BTBack. As for excessive noise caused by body resonance I press blue tack into the tank sides or any other flat surface. These old Tri ang locos are so robust in design and construction as is the XO4 motor that they can be long lived and loved for almost ever.My comments are in no way ment as any sort of crittism only to pass on my 40+years of experience. Sorry if I've rambled on to much.
Great video again! I have just refurbished an old LNER 0-6-0 (side body screw just like the pannier). Also put a brand new magnet in it. Runs amazingly well, smooth and great at low speed but hates points.
Did you ever get round to re-wheeling this? Just curious if this helped it on the points and what new wheels you used?
Great video one of my first locos tooo
A homely thing but looks great working on your layout.
Nice job, as ever. The fixing screw couldn’t go down the chimney as they offered the pannier with a smoke unit hence this odd side arrangement.
This was my first (new) loco. Very fond of it, even though the chimney has been knocked off and glued back on!
Is it possible to tell by moving the armature shaft that the back bearing is worn? I'm thinking, is there 'play' in any direction that we should look for? Cheers.
I had to check the wheels on my Hornby Panniers after watching this. The wheel flanges on the R051 are much bigger than the R300 that replaced it and even that struggles on certain points at slow speeds. I think the issue may be down to uneven points. If they're not mirror flat across the rails there's a chance one of the pick up wheels might lift as the loco crosses the frog. It's only an idea but I enjoy looking into it now and again.
The larger flanges on older locos will cause issues on modern points and crossings. I file down the frogs on my points and crossings which helps. And yes points that are 100% flat will have less issues than those that aren't.
@@oobill Thanks for your enlightened reply, I value that.
Great content by the way, I've subbed.
@@antman5474 My panniers also have remarkably large wheel flanges. I think that it may related to the Hornby track used at the time. I think that the Hornby track was known as 'System or Super 4' (but I cannot remember which). I still have quite a quantity waiting for reuse. The profile of the rail and the rail to sleeper ratio is notably larger. Vintage locomotives like the Panniers ran well on it but when they were transferred to more modern track systems, the loco's don't stand a chance. See to remember the same thing happening on vintage B12's as well.
Your'te not wrong !!!!!!
@@YsanneOshea I think you may be right Malcolm. It's all down to the wheel flanges. What a shame the old school rolling stock struggles on the new track. Hey ho, Shit happens.
Lovely job. Be interesting to see the re-wheeling and the difference that makes to its running.
You should rename your channel to “Dr OO Bill” as you are a specialist at getting locos running well.
Best wishes from the Wirral.
Wouldn't believe such a tiny little bearing could make so much noise , I also have one of these but slightly newer
Great job Bill...have you tried Peek metal cleaner?...great stuff for wheels etc...I also use it for cleaning nickle and chrome hardware on electric guitars....brings it up a treat.
Never heard of it. But after looking it up I'll give it a go. Cheers.
@@oobill definitely worth a go Bill......Michael.
I have 1 of these it takes oil in the top and makes smoke out the chimney as it goes
Hi Bill, Appreciate your videos. Relaxing and informative. What liquid is in your non-ferrous part cleaner?
Well done Bill, the older locos seem to go on and on don't they? Be nice if you could cut down on the blasphemy please mate.
hi bill thanks for all your videos you post they are very helpful on older locos etc can you tell me were you go to get you better scale wheels from i am after a set for a hornby sir dinadan loco .Kind regards Martin
Hi Bill great video. I'd be interested to know where I could get a re magnetiser like yours? Can't see anything on eBay or amazon. Kind Regards Graham
Hi bill,
I like many have the loud running problem with this loco. I cut layers of cork to shape to fit in the cavity of the loco. I think it is 3 layers of 2 mm track cork. If you look at the moulding of the body, it is in 2 parts so you can lift the top section straight off without unscrewing at the side. Hope this helps. Please tell me which slim wheel set you use because I need to change mine too. Thanks, love the videos and I have learned loads from you.
Cork! Great idea. I winced a little seeing the foam that Bill used, knowing how that stuff deteriorates over time.
@@PeterJewell2. No problem. Hope it helps you. Do you know the wheel set that will fit with narrow flanges for modern track???
@@OORAILWAY - sorry, no. Post 1970 models should run on code 100 track ok, I think. It's been 1960s stock I've found that runs along the sleeper chairs. Similarly, I don't remember 1970s stock having problems with PECO points, only Silver Seal coach/wagon wheels (ironically!). But it's a while since I was in a position to test this, so my memory may be failing me.
I like the tankers , I have one for pulling coal wagons on my layout. The wheels spin a bit though when it is pulling more than 4 coal wagons, any ides ?
Check the wheels of your coal wagons run freely. You should be able to spin them and see them keep going (ideally!). If they are plastic, consider replacing them with metal ones -- a simple job, but there's a knack to it that I am still trying to get. Before refitting the wheels, try rubbing a pencil in the axlebox (the hole for the pinpoint axle) -- graphite is a better lubricant than oil in this instance.
You could try adding more weight to your loco, to give it better traction, or you could just run it more slowly!
I've picked up one with almost the same problem, only thing is that it's impossible to get the body off! It has two clips at the back only but is so stiff it's like it will break if I force it. Has anyone come across this?
Sounds like a later model than this one. I suspect what you are thinking are clips at the back aren't they are little lugs to hold it in. The clip is probably at the front behind the coupling. It can be a real pain to unclip as well though. See my video on this 08 ruclips.net/video/3atPbOZ8oKg/видео.html
@@oobill cheers for coming back, yeh I tracked it back to being a 1980s model, one of the first of the class I think. Found the service sheets and I managed to get a small screwdriver in to unclip the front. Gave it all a clean up and now running like a dream, still very noisy though like your one, I'll try the foam, must be something about the shape. Had a mallard green on eBay for £40 last night and was pipped to it on 1 min left! eBay can.be a double edge sword at times
why would you look at that
it's duck from. thomas the tank engine