I can’t help thinking that the kitchen table will sub in nicely as a work bench while you redecorate and rebuild your layout room. 😂great video, thanks for sharing!👍🇨🇦
Interesting video as I pulled out a very similar Hornby class 08 on Thursday evening. It hadn't been run for a number of years. All I did was oil the axles and lube the gear and off she went pulling a rake of wagons! After watching this I should open it up and do a fuller service!
And another successful runner. Excellent repair job to an "elderly" loco. I must admit I do find the older locos and coaches interesting and goes to show you the long life these models have. No bells and whistles just a simple loco that runs. Well done Bill.
Hi Bill Yes it is an Uncoupler. The idea was that you came to a sudden stop which then uncoupled the wagons behind. I have had one from new in the 1970's
Nice one Bill. I've got one of that model of 08 Shunter. As mentioned below, the extra lever on the rear coupling hook is supposed to throw the lever forward and raising the hook. The tension bar has a 'slide' on it so the wagon or carriage hook could slide out of the tension bar after being brought to an abrupt halt. Not the best idea with the shorter hooks introduced around the same time! I had to replace the spring power pick-up as I'd lost it years ago. It isn't the best solder joint, the pick-up being a spring or stainless steel, which doesn't take solder well. My 1st video was on doing that with a piece of bronze-wound steel cored guitar string. Handy things! A great video and how the eye for the slight details pay off. Now I ken how to stop mine from rattling like a tin can! Cheers Bill. Keep Safe, sir. Cheers now!
I customised mine (when I was quite small): painted Airfix/Humbrol matt Trainer Yellow ends and coupling rods, then drew on the wasp stripes with a ruler and fine felt pen. (Recently re-drawn using a pigment marker, as the originals had faded, which allowed me to refine my original less-than-perfect lines!). I also have a vague recollection of attaching a lump of Blu-tack to the dropper of the counterweight coupling, so it stayed connected when running along.
This was the first loco I ever bought as a kid. Got it from the second hand shop that used to be located on the platform of bury Bolton street on the east lancs. Ended up looking an idiot as I took it home, ran it and it stopped working. So took it back, they opened it up and it was full of track pins. I'd left them on the track as I was building a layout, loco had run over them and got stuck in the loco. I was around 12 though.
Cheers Bill, a very nice addition to the layout - the 08 is obviously a good runner - I think that the Xo4s are good motors and certainly more robust than the ringfield types!
This hobby still has its surprises for me. Rear coupler with a counter balance arm with shunting fun to be had. A traction magnet that until tonight I new nothing about in Hornby locos and day light between magnet and plates which I shall now look out for. An enjoyable video thats educated me a little :0) Mike
Evening Bill, an excellent addition to the layout. As others mentioned the coupler has a counter balance which when the engine is stopped suddenly the arm moves forward and the coupler rises; thus uncoupling the wagon being pulled. Don’t catch on so to speak. It’s great fun though moving wagons and coaches around. Have fun and Thankyou again for your time for this video…👍 all best Marc
This was (Rovex) Hornby's first attempt at the English Electric class 08 shunter, as the preceding (Rovex) Triang Railways / Triang-Hornby 0-6-0 shunter was based on the inside framed LMS Armstrong-Whitworth "Jackshaft" 0-6-0 350 HP shunter. The weighted hook contraption is so that abrupt halting of the loco, causes it to automatically decouple. This can give phantom uncoupling on dirty track & point frogs.
The rear coupling is desigined to 'uncouple' when you stop the loco rather quicker than you would normally do so. The counterbalance weight, lifts the coupling hook, and it is supposed to stay lifted so that when you drive the shunter forward, it leaves the wagons/coaches behind!
Introduced to replace old diesel shunter in 1976 the 08 shunter featured an automatic uncoupling device . I think the theory was that if you stopped suddenly the counterbalance weight shot backwards releasing the coupling hook . Never really caught on . I don’t think it ever appeared on any other Hornby model
It's a nice donation. I think the 08 shunter is as essential to any layout as a Jinty. Gosh, the traction magnet. Not necessary on your nickel track I suppose. I have been trying to find one of those larger ones for ages and they are very hard, if not impossible, to find. I'm surprised you didn't disable the 'automatic uncoupling' device as well. Cute idea but I think it could become annoying.
That rear coupler is the Hornby automatic coupling. If you stop the loco quickly the weight at the top of the arm opens the coupler. It didn’t catch on as an idea.
@@beeble2003 there is a guard on the coupler on the loco so that the wagon’s coupler doesn’t engage at all. Oscar Paisley has done a very good video on it which shows you how it works.
Back when Hornby didn’t care if their models were scale representative ! These things were nothing like the real versions. I had a blue one in the 80s that came in the diesel shunter train set, mostly the same model as this one, mine had the newer, smaller motor that went way too fast & had no real slow speed control.
Hi Bill ,, I have a shunter like yours there (but my one has the NSW Railway livery of brown with yellow stripe on it) and it has eggzactklee the same deal happening for the long tall prong lookin thingy on it that moves back and forth and forth like yours does. The only thing i can see that being for may loose shunting as in giving the loco some power and stopping it dead and it relaeses the hook from the coupling and may be used over one of them uncouplers you use to get in the sets of tring and in peco uncoupling plates possibly. Anyhoo of ya find out what it does let us know plz.😁😁😁 or thats my guess at least. Cheers from John in Australia
Hey Bill, did you ever have a play with the auto decoupler? Have you ever used silicone spray for your locos? I've got some on the shelf along with goo gone and I'm sure they would be useful... Haven't the guts to test my theory. Goo gone should help with wheel cleaning, and silicone spray for lubrication... Obviously with small application brush
Not sure what you mean by the auto decoupler. Silicon spray will be fine but you can't spray it directly on to the loco. You'd be better with a silicon grease. Goo Gone is an adhesive remover so probably has acetone in it. Not sure. I'd stay clear of it. WD40 Contact Cleaner is the stuff to use.
@@oobill on these locos that back coupler is designed to auto decouple. So when you stop quickly it 'should' decouple... 'should'... I've not managed it yet 😊
Hi again Bill ,, ok so that thing ya done with the lining up the wheels with the ruler and when you put the tape on them to hold them together ,, so is this a part of the quartering process as I noticed you left 1 set of wheels in the chassis. Was that so you didnt have to do the quartering process ? Also have you done a video on quartering ? If you have could you let me know that around what date you did it as it would be awesome to know what to do as im still learning. The tape thing is a handy thing i have learnt tonight so thanks again. Cheers from John in Australia.
I haven't done a video specifically on quartering. Strictly speaking you only need to ensure the wheels on each side are in alignment. So I check that with a ruler then tape them so they don't move. Turn over and set the other wheels in alignment a quarter different to the other side.
@bill ,, thanks Bill ,, When i seen you use the tape I thought you bloody ripper.. I had a heap of trouble getting all 3 of the wheels to be in the same postions and it kept binding up when i put the other side wheels on. I found the centre wheel had a worn isolating plastic bearnig thingy so im lookin for a replacement bearing isolator. Ialso need brushesmand springs and am preparedmto buy at least 10 to 20 sets on bulk but none heremin oz... plenty in england butmthe postage is almost take second mortgage to post to here. Do you have any ideas of where I could find shops where you come frommtjat sells train bits as i have looked on ebay and cant seem to find what im looking for. Cheers from John in Australia
@@johngibson4641 - you can buy jigs that allow you to accurately set the quartering one axle at a time. I think Bill Bedford does a kit for a jig that you can fold into shape. (If all three axles are quartered individually, you don't need the ruler and tape! But Bill's method is cheap and does the job.)
How many locos depends on size and what's wrong with them but yes i do prefer to deal with one at a time. You can email me details via the address on the About tab on my channel.
How do I send u a loco request for repair I have a bachmann 08 dcc fitted and makes a terrible racket I think it needs a service but I not really done to meany If I was was to put it back to dc would u be able to do it a service
I can’t help thinking that the kitchen table will sub in nicely as a work bench while you redecorate and rebuild your layout room. 😂great video, thanks for sharing!👍🇨🇦
Interesting video as I pulled out a very similar Hornby class 08 on Thursday evening. It hadn't been run for a number of years. All I did was oil the axles and lube the gear and off she went pulling a rake of wagons! After watching this I should open it up and do a fuller service!
Wow excellent work. I’ve an old one and now tempted to have a go myself. 😁👍🍀🇮🇪
Hi Bill, I had one of those green 08s when I was a boy back in the 1960s! Brings back memories!
And another successful runner. Excellent repair job to an "elderly" loco. I must admit I do find the older locos and coaches interesting and goes to show you the long life these models have. No bells and whistles just a simple loco that runs. Well done Bill.
That was a great service and repair Bill
Enjoy your classic and good luck with the decorating
Nick Australia
Hi Bill Yes it is an Uncoupler. The idea was that you came to a sudden stop which then uncoupled the wagons behind. I have had one from new in the 1970's
Nice one Bill. I've got one of that model of 08 Shunter. As mentioned below, the extra lever on the rear coupling hook is supposed to throw the lever forward and raising the hook. The tension bar has a 'slide' on it so the wagon or carriage hook could slide out of the tension bar after being brought to an abrupt halt. Not the best idea with the shorter hooks introduced around the same time! I had to replace the spring power pick-up as I'd lost it years ago. It isn't the best solder joint, the pick-up being a spring or stainless steel, which doesn't take solder well. My 1st video was on doing that with a piece of bronze-wound steel cored guitar string. Handy things! A great video and how the eye for the slight details pay off. Now I ken how to stop mine from rattling like a tin can! Cheers Bill. Keep Safe, sir. Cheers now!
I customised mine (when I was quite small): painted Airfix/Humbrol matt Trainer Yellow ends and coupling rods, then drew on the wasp stripes with a ruler and fine felt pen. (Recently re-drawn using a pigment marker, as the originals had faded, which allowed me to refine my original less-than-perfect lines!). I also have a vague recollection of attaching a lump of Blu-tack to the dropper of the counterweight coupling, so it stayed connected when running along.
Ohh Yess - That was a mesmerising fix - poetry in Motion - well done Dr Bill 🩺 🚂🏆
This was the first loco I ever bought as a kid. Got it from the second hand shop that used to be located on the platform of bury Bolton street on the east lancs. Ended up looking an idiot as I took it home, ran it and it stopped working. So took it back, they opened it up and it was full of track pins. I'd left them on the track as I was building a layout, loco had run over them and got stuck in the loco. I was around 12 though.
Nice job on that one Bill runs quiet and smooth.
Cheers Bill, a very nice addition to the layout - the 08 is obviously a good runner - I think that the Xo4s are good motors and certainly more robust than the ringfield types!
This hobby still has its surprises for me. Rear coupler with a counter balance arm with shunting fun to be had. A traction magnet that until tonight I new nothing about in Hornby locos and day light between magnet and plates which I shall now look out for. An enjoyable video thats educated me a little :0) Mike
Nice job as usual. I know they're not as detailed as the most up to date examples but there's something nice about the older 08s
Evening Bill, an excellent addition to the layout. As others mentioned the coupler has a counter balance which when the engine is stopped suddenly the arm moves forward and the coupler rises; thus uncoupling the wagon being pulled. Don’t catch on so to speak. It’s great fun though moving wagons and coaches around. Have fun and Thankyou again for your time for this video…👍 all best Marc
This was (Rovex) Hornby's first attempt at the English Electric class 08 shunter, as the preceding (Rovex) Triang Railways / Triang-Hornby 0-6-0 shunter was based on the inside framed LMS Armstrong-Whitworth "Jackshaft" 0-6-0 350 HP shunter.
The weighted hook contraption is so that abrupt halting of the loco, causes it to automatically decouple. This can give phantom uncoupling on dirty track & point frogs.
Hi Bill 😀 Just shows you if you give something some TLC it’ll come back to life 🤩 Nice fix that Bill 👍🏻
The rear coupling is desigined to 'uncouple' when you stop the loco rather quicker than you would normally do so. The counterbalance weight, lifts the coupling hook, and it is supposed to stay lifted so that when you drive the shunter forward, it leaves the wagons/coaches behind!
Yup, Hornby trialled it on this but it didn't catch on.
So wished Hornby put the uncoupling device to the front of the loco as opposed to the rear.
hi Bill, i remember these in the 80s, that gadget is an uncoupler, just a gimmick really, this 08 was good and easy to maintain,
Introduced to replace old diesel shunter in 1976 the 08 shunter featured an automatic uncoupling device . I think the theory was that if you stopped suddenly the counterbalance weight shot backwards releasing the coupling hook . Never really caught on . I don’t think it ever appeared on any other Hornby model
THE BEST TRAIN!
It's a nice donation. I think the 08 shunter is as essential to any layout as a Jinty. Gosh, the traction magnet. Not necessary on your nickel track I suppose. I have been trying to find one of those larger ones for ages and they are very hard, if not impossible, to find. I'm surprised you didn't disable the 'automatic uncoupling' device as well. Cute idea but I think it could become annoying.
I bet Charles wants it back now.
That rear coupler is the Hornby automatic coupling. If you stop the loco quickly the weight at the top of the arm opens the coupler. It didn’t catch on as an idea.
But the wagon's coupler is still connected to the locomotive so no wonder it didn't catch on.
@@beeble2003 there is a guard on the coupler on the loco so that the wagon’s coupler doesn’t engage at all. Oscar Paisley has done a very good video on it which shows you how it works.
@@simonturner5450 Ahhh, thanks.
great job as usual
Back when Hornby didn’t care if their models were scale representative ! These things were nothing like the real versions.
I had a blue one in the 80s that came in the diesel shunter train set, mostly the same model as this one, mine had the newer, smaller motor that went way too fast & had no real slow speed control.
Hi Bill ,, I have a shunter like yours there (but my one has the NSW Railway livery of brown with yellow stripe on it) and it has eggzactklee the same deal happening for the long tall prong lookin thingy on it that moves back and forth and forth like yours does.
The only thing i can see that being for may loose shunting as in giving the loco some power and stopping it dead and it relaeses the hook from the coupling and may be used over one of them uncouplers you use to get in the sets of tring and in peco uncoupling plates possibly. Anyhoo of ya find out what it does let us know plz.😁😁😁 or thats my guess at least.
Cheers from John in Australia
Hey Bill, did you ever have a play with the auto decoupler?
Have you ever used silicone spray for your locos? I've got some on the shelf along with goo gone and I'm sure they would be useful... Haven't the guts to test my theory. Goo gone should help with wheel cleaning, and silicone spray for lubrication... Obviously with small application brush
Not sure what you mean by the auto decoupler. Silicon spray will be fine but you can't spray it directly on to the loco. You'd be better with a silicon grease. Goo Gone is an adhesive remover so probably has acetone in it. Not sure. I'd stay clear of it. WD40 Contact Cleaner is the stuff to use.
@@oobill on these locos that back coupler is designed to auto decouple. So when you stop quickly it 'should' decouple... 'should'... I've not managed it yet 😊
nice loco good vid on your get give it train thank four good vid
What kind of contact cleaner do you use?
Hi again Bill ,, ok so that thing ya done with the lining up the wheels with the ruler and when you put the tape on them to hold them together ,, so is this a part of the quartering process as I noticed you left 1 set of wheels in the chassis. Was that so you didnt have to do the quartering process ? Also have you done a video on quartering ?
If you have could you let me know that around what date you did it as it would be awesome to know what to do as im still learning. The tape thing is a handy thing i have learnt tonight so thanks again.
Cheers from John in Australia.
I haven't done a video specifically on quartering. Strictly speaking you only need to ensure the wheels on each side are in alignment. So I check that with a ruler then tape them so they don't move. Turn over and set the other wheels in alignment a quarter different to the other side.
@bill ,, thanks Bill ,, When i seen you use the tape I thought you bloody ripper..
I had a heap of trouble getting all 3 of the wheels to be in the same postions and it kept binding up when i put the other side wheels on.
I found the centre wheel had a worn isolating plastic bearnig thingy so im lookin for a replacement bearing isolator. Ialso need brushesmand springs and am preparedmto buy at least 10 to 20 sets on bulk but none heremin oz... plenty in england butmthe postage is almost take second mortgage to post to here.
Do you have any ideas of where I could find shops where you come frommtjat sells train bits as i have looked on ebay and cant seem to find what im looking for.
Cheers from John in Australia
@@johngibson4641 - you can buy jigs that allow you to accurately set the quartering one axle at a time. I think Bill Bedford does a kit for a jig that you can fold into shape. (If all three axles are quartered individually, you don't need the ruler and tape! But Bill's method is cheap and does the job.)
Hi Bill hope your well, am I right in thinking you only take one loco per person now? Also how can I sent a loco to you ?
How many locos depends on size and what's wrong with them but yes i do prefer to deal with one at a time. You can email me details via the address on the About tab on my channel.
How do I send u a loco request for repair I have a bachmann 08 dcc fitted and makes a terrible racket I think it needs a service but I not really done to meany
If I was was to put it back to dc would u be able to do it a service
At this rate you'll need a bigger layout.
The little dongle on the coupling is for if you were to stop suddenly then it will rise up so you can have hand free un coupling
Contact cleaner on offer at toolstation