I had found an adapter that somebody had made for the 16mm Möller anamorphot to fit on his H8 Reflex - so I had to have rods being made and it looks fine. First tests didn't turn out great also using Fomapan. Anamorphic image quality seems better with the small non-reflex Bolex B8LA. As if the Möller didn't go well with the Reflex primes. Did you actually shoot with this H8 / Möller outfit?
Perhaps the mount is not centered correctly. The moller has a great reputation as the sharpest anamorphic. I have shot on my H16 Rx5 and it turned out great.
@@paulcotto This is about the setup of the little 19 Möller on the H8 RX. Mine looks looks well centered (perhaps 0.5mm off) and you can even get rid of the gap you are showing because the glass of the RX lens never hits the anamorphot when both touch. At your gap you will get vignetting. You set the lens to 0.5m, the closest possible focus and then get the anamorphot as close to the lens as possible. After that you are free to focus the lens in its spectrum. With the the B8L the (smaller) lens can touch the back lens of the anamorphot and you have to be more careful.
Is there any way to also buy or get a sample of your attachment? Have the 8/19/1.5 but with the single rod. It seems it might fit the Ds8 or H8 with just the single rod instead of the two havent checked yet. (No bolex cam ) have an arriflex st going to sell that one to buy a bolex DS8
You need the pair of 8mm rods that thread into the 2 lens locations also. I would be happy to give you a copy of the file to 3D print the Moller mount. I use craftcloud3D to print hem in aluminum or steel. Here is a link to the file. Print it in milimeter scale. drive.google.com/file/d/1OQFKMUZ3cE9xlL28YenRqks7F6HV2Yem/view?usp=drive_link
@paulcotto amazing. Those rods are really hard to find. Wondering if als a 3D aluminium print would be some option… havent got any thing here to measure it at home and build a 3D model hut that is something amazing it it would be possible some day
I designed some but after printing in aluminum they needed to be rethreaded. That requires a machine shop. I would find 2 aluminum C mount body caps and drill the center to 8mm and buy 2, 8mm linear steel rails off Amazon. Then use led loctite to permanently cement them together.
I had found an adapter that somebody had made for the 16mm Möller anamorphot to fit on his H8 Reflex - so I had to have rods being made and it looks fine. First tests didn't turn out great also using Fomapan. Anamorphic image quality seems better with the small non-reflex Bolex B8LA. As if the Möller didn't go well with the Reflex primes. Did you actually shoot with this H8 / Möller outfit?
Perhaps the mount is not centered correctly. The moller has a great reputation as the sharpest anamorphic. I have shot on my H16 Rx5 and it turned out great.
@@paulcotto This is about the setup of the little 19 Möller on the H8 RX. Mine looks looks well centered (perhaps 0.5mm off) and you can even get rid of the gap you are showing because the glass of the RX lens never hits the anamorphot when both touch. At your gap you will get vignetting. You set the lens to 0.5m, the closest possible focus and then get the anamorphot as close to the lens as possible. After that you are free to focus the lens in its spectrum. With the the B8L the (smaller) lens can touch the back lens of the anamorphot and you have to be more careful.
Is there any way to also buy or get a sample of your attachment? Have the 8/19/1.5 but with the single rod. It seems it might fit the Ds8 or H8 with just the single rod instead of the two havent checked yet. (No bolex cam ) have an arriflex st going to sell that one to buy a bolex DS8
You need the pair of 8mm rods that thread into the 2 lens locations also. I would be happy to give you a copy of the file to 3D print the Moller mount. I use craftcloud3D to print hem in aluminum or steel. Here is a link to the file. Print it in milimeter scale. drive.google.com/file/d/1OQFKMUZ3cE9xlL28YenRqks7F6HV2Yem/view?usp=drive_link
@paulcotto amazing. Those rods are really hard to find. Wondering if als a 3D aluminium print would be some option… havent got any thing here to measure it at home and build a 3D model hut that is something amazing it it would be possible some day
I designed some but after printing in aluminum they needed to be rethreaded. That requires a machine shop. I would find 2 aluminum C mount body caps and drill the center to 8mm and buy 2, 8mm linear steel rails off Amazon. Then use led loctite to permanently cement them together.