You're awesome for putting this together! I just got one and was initially a little intimidated with the disassembly, but you made it very easy to understand.
I would advise, I know there’s many thought processes here, if you’re going to oil something it will inherently collect dirt. That said, some things need oil so figuring out what works best for you just takes time. If I get a new gun, I might liberally oil as you did and then wipe it all off mostly to remove the assembly grease/oil from the factory. Then I use as little as possible until I figure out the areas that need more(ie has difficult to remove carbon). Cheers! Sick shotgun btw, I’m jealous
Too much oil in your trigger housing is a BAD thing. For two reasons. Depending on how you store your shotgun, any excess will just migrate to the rear of the receiver and make it's way outside on your stock or wherever. Also, don't ever oil your magazine tube more than a surface wipe. Oil left in Magazine Tubes will migrate to primers and cause any ammo stored in your firearm to have to potential to fail due to oil migrating to the primers.
Fantastic content man. I hadn't lubed much of the trigger assembly since purchasing the gun, and this was a huge help. I'll also suggest another video "Breech bolt disassembling & assembling of Beretta 1301" if you want to get down to lubing the bolt and firing pin more deeply.
@@ryanmcelroy1464 thank you man. Happy to help. I appreciate the suggestion. Usually the lube creeps its way in from lubing the bolt but I’m sure you can get it better with that video.
Seems like a lot of oil. Perhaps I am under lubricating mine. Thanks for showing how to take the trigger group out. That’s the only thing I haven’t done on mine.
It was a little too much. That bottle sucks and kind of drips out on its own. You can do less than that or just wipe the excess away when you put it back together. I prefer to have a more than not enough on there. No problem. Glad this helped!
@@GearAndGuns I know you can get those little precision droppers for more accurate application. I just got my Mod 2 a few weeks ago. Loving it. I cleaned it up once and didn’t lube the bolt enough and was having failures to cycle. I am a little more liberal with the oil now, and have also started using a little bit of “tetra gun grease” on the guide rails and bolt itself. Since using the combo of oil and grease, I’ve not run into any issues at all. This thing is FAST!!! Now I’m just trying to figure out what I need in order to get a sling and a weapons light on the gun. Also kind of interested in getting a fiber optic front sight post. Would like a matchsaverz but not sure how to go about that since the mod 2 has that little plastic piece that separates the receiver from the foregrip. So far the only thing I’ve added is an esstac shotgun card (side saddle/shell carrier) and I’m happy with it so far. I want a blue force gear sling but like I said, trying to figure out A. what hardware I need to select on the sling itself and B. What hardware I might need for the gun itself since the factory stock just has that plug and QD cup. Is that hole in the barrel clamp a QD cup as well? I’ve thrown a lot at you in this comment and I apologize for that lol. Just excited about this new gun and trying to learn as much as possible about it before spending money on attachments.
@@stevenrodriguez9655 yeah I just haven’t spent the money to buy one. Glad you’re loving the shotgun. It’s a great choice. This thing should cycle any round no problem. Shouldn’t need any grease but lubing definitely helps. Yes extremely fast cycling. I recommend the modlite phlv2 for a shotgun light. I’m actually going to be making videos for sling mounting, sling, shotgun cards, light mounting, and red dot mounting as well. If you can be patient with me, some of these videos might help you make some better decisions. I’m not going to be changing out my front sight post, I don’t think it’s necessary but you can do fiber optic or tritium. I’m also not adding a match saver because there’s not really a good spot to mount it on this hand guard. Esstac shotgun card is nice. I’ll be talking about that in my shotgun card video. I’m putting an aimpoint acro red dot on it, Trex arms sling, modlite plhv2 with arisaka inline mount, surefire st07 tape switch and surefire ue tail cap. I’m also going to put on an aridus industries shotgun card. I’ll be making videos on all of this as soon as possible.
@@stevenrodriguez9655 I would recommend to wait a little until I can get these videos out so then you can see these other options, why I’m doing them and why I think there superior. But completely up to you. I used to run esstac but have been having problems with them not holding shells well. I’m hoping to do some more filming today. Just takes time with editing and all that. I’m doing videos as I do work when I can.
@@GearAndGuns I’m in no rush. Glad I found your channel, both got our guns around the same time. Always good to see what other people are doing and get some ideas from that. The gun community can be a really good place sometimes. I’ve learned a lot of what I know from just having conversations like this in the comments of smaller RUclips channels, Reddit threads, my own research etc. so I will hold out and see what you post. The wolf green and OD green esstac shot cards apparently were not made with milspec elastic. Not sure if you were having trouble with one of those colors or not, but it’s something I’ve heard echoing around online and figured I’d mention it. So far so good with the black one, but I’ll keep an eye out for quickly dying elasticity.
Looks like just did a 5000-mile vehicle oil change on the shotgun. Why oil the follower spring even? Getting everything soaked will just allow dirt or burnt residue to cling on to.
Yeah definitely over did the lube lol. That bottle sucks really bad. Leaks everywhere and hard to control how much comes out. I like to oil all mostly metal moving parts that grind against each other or cause friction. The follower and spring both touch the inside of the metal round tube. Not a big deal, just showing you everywhere you can oil. You’re free to oil as you please or not at all. Things just tend to run a little more smooth. But you’re right, it can cause build up in certain areas because of the wetness of it. I just prefer some liquid even if it’s dirty rather than dry friction.
I do as similar job, the only difference is i use machinegun grease for the bolt, machinegun grease withstand the heat better than oil because the 1301 can get very hot after couple times of rapid fire
@@metatronmen2431 I know the barrel gets really hot but I don’t think the bolt gets nearly as hot. Haven’t used machine gun grease, alg defense makes an ultra thin gun grease that’s good. That’s what I’d recommend. If it’s too thick it could gunk up your firearm.
@@GearAndGuns Yes, try it, apply a thin coat with your finger to the bolt like you do with the oil. I bought my 1301 used and the bolt is shinny so the oil dont stick on it very well and the grease does, IDK if the previous owner probably over polished the bolt himself or come like that from factory.
@GearAndGuns was just on the phone with them earlier and their website says yes. This makes me mad also that the ATF is messing with them over that 922r crap.
@@mck2ay1 2 people have already commented this. I understand it was too much. The oil bottle sucks. Most of it bled out and I wiped it off. The gun will run dirty or with grime, it’s self cleaning.
@@austinpitman7570 It pulls out but you have to push the rotating bolt face in and out while slightly pulling for it to release. The part that goes into the bolt is shaped like a key so the charging handle won’t twist.
@@Lawlzinator No you do not have to. I only did that to oil the spring. If you shoot a lot, eventually overtime there may be buildup in the tube that you might want to clean out. I was just demonstrating how to take them out.
Sir excellent video. Quick question regarding the mesa stock. After running 00 buck 1325 after about 20 rds the dtock shifts. Did you have this occur on your model? Reddit indicated simply tightening the screw. Any thoughts or experience brother?
@@christophergarcia1027 Thank you. Do you have this same model with the mesa tactical stock? Is the cheek riser drifting backwards or what exactly do you mean by the stock drifting? I haven’t had that occur. If you’re talking about the cheek riser, yes you could tighten down the screws on each side and put thread locker on them. There’s screws and a nut for each screw. If you’re talking about the entire stock, you’ll have to tighten whatever is holding the stock in and put some thread locker on that too if you can. I haven’t had to do that yet though. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Hope this helps brother. 🤝🏼
@@saudalblaihed3925 If they’re not on the barrel there might be markings located elsewhere on the gun. Not a big deal, could be an older firearm or someone may have ground them off, or the company didn’t want to put markings on the barrel. Which make and model do you have?
@ They probably didn’t engrave the barrel because it’s cheaper. You might be able to find some engraving on the receiver. No big deal though as long as no serial numbers are scratched off.
@@Airplanetyson I was just trying to use that bottle up but got rid of it. I have better stuff now, some of it is similar to the ballistol. Thanks for the recommendation. Heard good things about grease.
I’ve been thinking about buying one of these bad boys,, what does the Beretta owners manual say about cleaning the B-Link gas system,, do they recommend cleaning it after X amount of rounds.. or is it a mystery you’ll have to discover using it yourself… I know the Beneilli M4 is famous for its ARGO gas system that is self cleaning as they say..
@@Jrh-rp7np doesn’t say much about the b link system except that it fires 33% faster than competitors. It’s kind of a mystery on cleaning, you can wait to clean it until you have problems, or you can clean it based off what others say or when you would like to clean it. Yeah the benelli can potentially go 10-20k rounds without cleaning. Up to you how much you’d like to clean it, it should run for awhile since it’s a combat style shotgun. I’d recommend this over the benelli because of weight, but if you don’t want to clean it, benelli might be better. I’m going to be replacing my benelli for a 300 blk short rifle for home defense.
@@GearAndGunsI finally bought one in an auction on Gun Brokers for with tax and 25 dollars shipping 1600 which I couldn’t pass up. And no one outbid me ,, I got the FDE one,,and I can’t get 7 rounds in the mag I haven’t taken it apart yet but it’s hard to believe that spring safety makes that much of a difference…and 300 BO for home defense hell yeah ,, you get like 8.5 inch with a suppressor and some subsonics ,, a light and laser and an Eotech. .. with the 30 round 300 BO specific Pmag.. and some hood who breaks in with a taped up piece of crap pistol is in for a bad day…and just get the pistol 300 Bo it’s easier than doing the whole SbR BS mumbo jumbo and you’ll save 200 bucks
@@Jrh-rp7np that’s awesome Man! You got the mod 2 for 1600? Sounds like a pretty good deal. It depends what rounds you buy. Some rounds are longer than 2 and 3/4 even though that’s what they say they are. Winchester super x 00 buckshot and Hornady critical defense 00 buckshot both fit 7 rounds in mine. Winchester barely fits 7 and Hornady is shorter than the Winchester so anything the same size as those should fit 7. Haven’t tried anything else yet. The spring retainer is only like 1/16” thick so unless you’re that close to getting the round in, it won’t matter. Some people cut their spring or buy the Wolff spring from freedom fighter tactical, but I’d just recommend using a round short enough to fit 7.
@@Jrh-rp7np I’m replacing my benelli m4 with the sig rattler lt. I bought the conversion kit and just threw that on an aero lower. I don’t like the majority of the sig ambi lowers and didn’t want to spend 800$ just for the lower. It’s a 6.75” barrel, they have a 9” too but I already have an 11.5” 556 so i wanted to diversify my arsenal a bit with a wider range rather then getting 2 guns that are 2.5” inches apart that have very similar ballistics and capabilities. In that case I’ve just chose the 11.5 most often. The 9” is a good option for ballistics and hand guard length. But with the 6.75” I can use it for home defense, cqb, bag gun, etc. And with a suppressor it’ll be about 12” with the barrel. Definitely going to run subs when I get the suppressor for it. I went with lancer mags because I already run pmags for my 556 guns, they’re easy to quickly distinguish between. I’m wanting to sbr it because I’m tired of dealing with pistol braces. Been using braces since the start of using rifles and I’m over them. Definitely an easier and more cost effective option though. Won’t be putting a laser on right not because I don’t have night vision. Always wanted any Eotech but I’ll be putting the aimpoint t2 on there because I took it off the benelli. Eotechs battery life is terrible but I’d love to own one, throw it on an mk18 or something. Either way, if you break into someone’s house and your meeting a beretta 1301 or an sig rattler on the other side, your done for lol.
@@GearAndGuns dude you know what’s a great red dot,,the Sig Romeo 8t 100,000 hour battery life,, you can choose between 4 dot styles,, you can use just a Dot,,you can switch to a circle dot and then if to need to go long range you can switch to the Holds dots or a circle dot with holds,,it’s NV capable,,,Shake awake,, it’s Ipx-8 waterproof and fog proof and a titanium shroud,, it is a bit bulky but you really feel like u get your moneys worth
@@TheCenturion8404 You’re right it was a little too much lube in some areas, that’s why I just wiped the excess away. The oil bottle in the video was a poor dispenser. I prefer to have more lube than less, so I over do it sometimes to make sure it gets in all areas. Dunking is a bit extreme. Not only do I not have that amount of oil but it would make a much bigger mess and a waste of oil.
The bottle is a bad oil dispenser. Too much comes out. Yes it was too much but I didn’t oil it wrong and it’s not going to cause more problems, it runs more smoothly.
@@lundysden6781 Benelli m4 is a military shotgun and has a similar disassembly. I wiped away the excess oil. These guns have self cleaning systems so they’ll clean themselves. Not too worried about the build up, just want it to run smooth. Feel free to use grease if you prefer that, I’ve just always used oil and it’s worked fine for me plus It’s what I have. Hope this helped on some way.
FINALLY! I've been waiting for a disassembly video on the Mod 2 for months! Please do a cleaning one. Thank you!
@@DesertBurst92 No Problem. Happy to help! I’ll try to get one of those out.
You're awesome for putting this together! I just got one and was initially a little intimidated with the disassembly, but you made it very easy to understand.
Thank you! I’m glad this helped you. That’s the whole point of this channel. Helping others.
The manual sucks so bad because it covers every Beretta semi-auto but isn't specific to this gun. So thanks for putting this out.
No problem. Glad I could help! I understand. Ridiculous how they don’t make a manual specific to the shotgun you’re buying.
The Italians really had the balls to charge nearly 2k for a shotgun and couldn't be bothered to PRINT a copy of the manual. Very scummy.
Awesome video. Had a hard time removing the trigger pack due to the pistol grip. Definitely made it easier after watching your tutorial. Thank you!
@@poypinoy thank you. Happy to help! Yeah the trigger assembly is a bit stubborn to get in and out sometimes.
I would advise, I know there’s many thought processes here, if you’re going to oil something it will inherently collect dirt. That said, some things need oil so figuring out what works best for you just takes time. If I get a new gun, I might liberally oil as you did and then wipe it all off mostly to remove the assembly grease/oil from the factory. Then I use as little as possible until I figure out the areas that need more(ie has difficult to remove carbon). Cheers! Sick shotgun btw, I’m jealous
@@utookmynames That’s true. Someone else mentioned this as well. I usually oil all moving parts or metal to metal. Appreciate the input. Thank you.
Just got the same one and olive drab is awesome color glad I got it
@@Timcanniff311 Nice. Yeah I like it a lot.
Too much oil in your trigger housing is a BAD thing. For two reasons. Depending on how you store your shotgun, any excess will just migrate to the rear of the receiver and make it's way outside on your stock or wherever. Also, don't ever oil your magazine tube more than a surface wipe. Oil left in Magazine Tubes will migrate to primers and cause any ammo stored in your firearm to have to potential to fail due to oil migrating to the primers.
I wipe the excess off. That’s a good point with the primers, thanks for the advice.
Fantastic content man. I hadn't lubed much of the trigger assembly since purchasing the gun, and this was a huge help. I'll also suggest another video "Breech bolt disassembling & assembling of Beretta 1301" if you want to get down to lubing the bolt and firing pin more deeply.
@@ryanmcelroy1464 thank you man. Happy to help. I appreciate the suggestion. Usually the lube creeps its way in from lubing the bolt but I’m sure you can get it better with that video.
Seems like a lot of oil. Perhaps I am under lubricating mine. Thanks for showing how to take the trigger group out. That’s the only thing I haven’t done on mine.
It was a little too much. That bottle sucks and kind of drips out on its own. You can do less than that or just wipe the excess away when you put it back together. I prefer to have a more than not enough on there. No problem. Glad this helped!
@@GearAndGuns I know you can get those little precision droppers for more accurate application. I just got my Mod 2 a few weeks ago. Loving it. I cleaned it up once and didn’t lube the bolt enough and was having failures to cycle. I am a little more liberal with the oil now, and have also started using a little bit of “tetra gun grease” on the guide rails and bolt itself. Since using the combo of oil and grease, I’ve not run into any issues at all. This thing is FAST!!! Now I’m just trying to figure out what I need in order to get a sling and a weapons light on the gun. Also kind of interested in getting a fiber optic front sight post. Would like a matchsaverz but not sure how to go about that since the mod 2 has that little plastic piece that separates the receiver from the foregrip. So far the only thing I’ve added is an esstac shotgun card (side saddle/shell carrier) and I’m happy with it so far. I want a blue force gear sling but like I said, trying to figure out A. what hardware I need to select on the sling itself and B. What hardware I might need for the gun itself since the factory stock just has that plug and QD cup. Is that hole in the barrel clamp a QD cup as well?
I’ve thrown a lot at you in this comment and I apologize for that lol. Just excited about this new gun and trying to learn as much as possible about it before spending money on attachments.
@@stevenrodriguez9655 yeah I just haven’t spent the money to buy one. Glad you’re loving the shotgun. It’s a great choice. This thing should cycle any round no problem. Shouldn’t need any grease but lubing definitely helps. Yes extremely fast cycling. I recommend the modlite phlv2 for a shotgun light. I’m actually going to be making videos for sling mounting, sling, shotgun cards, light mounting, and red dot mounting as well. If you can be patient with me, some of these videos might help you make some better decisions. I’m not going to be changing out my front sight post, I don’t think it’s necessary but you can do fiber optic or tritium. I’m also not adding a match saver because there’s not really a good spot to mount it on this hand guard. Esstac shotgun card is nice. I’ll be talking about that in my shotgun card video. I’m putting an aimpoint acro red dot on it, Trex arms sling, modlite plhv2 with arisaka inline mount, surefire st07 tape switch and surefire ue tail cap. I’m also going to put on an aridus industries shotgun card. I’ll be making videos on all of this as soon as possible.
@@stevenrodriguez9655 I would recommend to wait a little until I can get these videos out so then you can see these other options, why I’m doing them and why I think there superior. But completely up to you. I used to run esstac but have been having problems with them not holding shells well. I’m hoping to do some more filming today. Just takes time with editing and all that. I’m doing videos as I do work when I can.
@@GearAndGuns I’m in no rush. Glad I found your channel, both got our guns around the same time. Always good to see what other people are doing and get some ideas from that. The gun community can be a really good place sometimes. I’ve learned a lot of what I know from just having conversations like this in the comments of smaller RUclips channels, Reddit threads, my own research etc. so I will hold out and see what you post. The wolf green and OD green esstac shot cards apparently were not made with milspec elastic. Not sure if you were having trouble with one of those colors or not, but it’s something I’ve heard echoing around online and figured I’d mention it. So far so good with the black one, but I’ll keep an eye out for quickly dying elasticity.
Great job what I was looking for I got the same one thanks
Thank you. I hope you enjoy it!
Looks like just did a 5000-mile vehicle oil change on the shotgun. Why oil the follower spring even? Getting everything soaked will just allow dirt or burnt residue to cling on to.
Yeah definitely over did the lube lol. That bottle sucks really bad. Leaks everywhere and hard to control how much comes out. I like to oil all mostly metal moving parts that grind against each other or cause friction. The follower and spring both touch the inside of the metal round tube. Not a big deal, just showing you everywhere you can oil. You’re free to oil as you please or not at all. Things just tend to run a little more smooth. But you’re right, it can cause build up in certain areas because of the wetness of it. I just prefer some liquid even if it’s dirty rather than dry friction.
Thanks man, I appreciate your video.
@@stever4375 No problem. Happy to help.
I do as similar job, the only difference is i use machinegun grease for the bolt, machinegun grease withstand the heat better than oil because the 1301 can get very hot after couple times of rapid fire
@@metatronmen2431 I know the barrel gets really hot but I don’t think the bolt gets nearly as hot. Haven’t used machine gun grease, alg defense makes an ultra thin gun grease that’s good. That’s what I’d recommend. If it’s too thick it could gunk up your firearm.
@@GearAndGuns Yes, try it, apply a thin coat with your finger to the bolt like you do with the oil. I bought my 1301 used and the bolt is shinny so the oil dont stick on it very well and the grease does, IDK if the previous owner probably over polished the bolt himself or come like that from factory.
@ I don’t have any grease right now but I’ll see about trying it in the future. The bolt is kind of shinny from the factory.
Nice shotgun. I’ve got one ordered.
Thank you. That’s awesome. I hope you enjoy it. You won’t be dissatisfied.
fantastic video @ @! thanks so much
No problem. Thank you!
I want to buy the Mod 2 forearm for my older 1301. Looks like it is no problem to just change that out.
@@charlesrobison6962 I would imagine it would work but I’m not 100% sure. I would confirm with beretta.
@GearAndGuns was just on the phone with them earlier and their website says yes. This makes me mad also that the ATF is messing with them over that 922r crap.
@ Well that’s good it works. I heard about them and the atf causing problems, definitely some bs. ATF is ridiculous. 922r makes no sense.
Thanks for the vid dude.... beware of all the oil police !! If yall knew then why did you click on the video lol
@@RJ-li2xd No problem man. Happy to help. Thanks I appreciate that lol 🤝🏼
Waaaay too much oil. The second there is a dirty environment like a vehicle digging up dirt in your area, now you have grime in your gun.
@@mck2ay1 2 people have already commented this. I understand it was too much. The oil bottle sucks. Most of it bled out and I wiped it off. The gun will run dirty or with grime, it’s self cleaning.
Great video! This is absolutely my favorite gun and I shoot it every week but I’ll be damned if I can get that bolt handle out lol
Thank you! Very nice gun for sure. It is annoying but not too bad. Just wiggle the bolt face in and out. Doesn’t really need to come out I guess.
Does the charging handle just pull out or does it twist then pull out
@@austinpitman7570 It pulls out but you have to push the rotating bolt face in and out while slightly pulling for it to release. The part that goes into the bolt is shaped like a key so the charging handle won’t twist.
you have to take out the spring and follower just to clean this thing?
@@Lawlzinator No you do not have to. I only did that to oil the spring. If you shoot a lot, eventually overtime there may be buildup in the tube that you might want to clean out. I was just demonstrating how to take them out.
Sir excellent video. Quick question regarding the mesa stock. After running 00 buck 1325 after about 20 rds the dtock shifts. Did you have this occur on your model? Reddit indicated simply tightening the screw. Any thoughts or experience brother?
@@christophergarcia1027 Thank you. Do you have this same model with the mesa tactical stock? Is the cheek riser drifting backwards or what exactly do you mean by the stock drifting? I haven’t had that occur. If you’re talking about the cheek riser, yes you could tighten down the screws on each side and put thread locker on them. There’s screws and a nut for each screw. If you’re talking about the entire stock, you’ll have to tighten whatever is holding the stock in and put some thread locker on that too if you can. I haven’t had to do that yet though. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Hope this helps brother. 🤝🏼
Thanks bro
@@Chris13FIST No problem bro. Happy to help!
Just dip the whole thing in some lube next time it’ll save you some time
@@DEESreviews Lol, I’ll pass on that.
What does it mean if i cant find any markings on the barrel
@@saudalblaihed3925 If they’re not on the barrel there might be markings located elsewhere on the gun. Not a big deal, could be an older firearm or someone may have ground them off, or the company didn’t want to put markings on the barrel. Which make and model do you have?
@GearAndGuns it is a cheap pump action shotgun made by Retay, model name is retay GPS with 18.5 barrel
@ They probably didn’t engrave the barrel because it’s cheaper. You might be able to find some engraving on the receiver. No big deal though as long as no serial numbers are scratched off.
@@GearAndGuns the shotgun came with 3 chokes one of them says steel ok,does this indicate the barrel can shoot steel no issues?
@ The choked labeled with “steel ok” means that that specific choked is rated and safe to use with steel shot. Not the barrel but that specific choke.
Thanks!
No problem!
Try ballistol and grease. Way cleaner and easier to use
@@Airplanetyson I was just trying to use that bottle up but got rid of it. I have better stuff now, some of it is similar to the ballistol. Thanks for the recommendation. Heard good things about grease.
I’ve been thinking about buying one of these bad boys,, what does the Beretta owners manual say about cleaning the B-Link gas system,, do they recommend cleaning it after X amount of rounds.. or is it a mystery you’ll have to discover using it yourself… I know the Beneilli M4 is famous for its ARGO gas system that is self cleaning as they say..
@@Jrh-rp7np doesn’t say much about the b link system except that it fires 33% faster than competitors. It’s kind of a mystery on cleaning, you can wait to clean it until you have problems, or you can clean it based off what others say or when you would like to clean it. Yeah the benelli can potentially go 10-20k rounds without cleaning. Up to you how much you’d like to clean it, it should run for awhile since it’s a combat style shotgun. I’d recommend this over the benelli because of weight, but if you don’t want to clean it, benelli might be better. I’m going to be replacing my benelli for a 300 blk short rifle for home defense.
@@GearAndGunsI finally bought one in an auction on Gun Brokers for with tax and 25 dollars shipping 1600 which I couldn’t pass up. And no one outbid me ,, I got the FDE one,,and I can’t get 7 rounds in the mag I haven’t taken it apart yet but it’s hard to believe that spring safety makes that much of a difference…and 300 BO for home defense hell yeah ,, you get like 8.5 inch with a suppressor and some subsonics ,, a light and laser and an Eotech. .. with the 30 round 300 BO specific Pmag.. and some hood who breaks in with a taped up piece of crap pistol is in for a bad day…and just get the pistol 300 Bo it’s easier than doing the whole SbR BS mumbo jumbo and you’ll save 200 bucks
@@Jrh-rp7np that’s awesome Man! You got the mod 2 for 1600? Sounds like a pretty good deal. It depends what rounds you buy. Some rounds are longer than 2 and 3/4 even though that’s what they say they are. Winchester super x 00 buckshot and Hornady critical defense 00 buckshot both fit 7 rounds in mine. Winchester barely fits 7 and Hornady is shorter than the Winchester so anything the same size as those should fit 7. Haven’t tried anything else yet. The spring retainer is only like 1/16” thick so unless you’re that close to getting the round in, it won’t matter. Some people cut their spring or buy the Wolff spring from freedom fighter tactical, but I’d just recommend using a round short enough to fit 7.
@@Jrh-rp7np I’m replacing my benelli m4 with the sig rattler lt. I bought the conversion kit and just threw that on an aero lower. I don’t like the majority of the sig ambi lowers and didn’t want to spend 800$ just for the lower. It’s a 6.75” barrel, they have a 9” too but I already have an 11.5” 556 so i wanted to diversify my arsenal a bit with a wider range rather then getting 2 guns that are 2.5” inches apart that have very similar ballistics and capabilities. In that case I’ve just chose the 11.5 most often. The 9” is a good option for ballistics and hand guard length. But with the 6.75” I can use it for home defense, cqb, bag gun, etc. And with a suppressor it’ll be about 12” with the barrel. Definitely going to run subs when I get the suppressor for it. I went with lancer mags because I already run pmags for my 556 guns, they’re easy to quickly distinguish between. I’m wanting to sbr it because I’m tired of dealing with pistol braces. Been using braces since the start of using rifles and I’m over them. Definitely an easier and more cost effective option though. Won’t be putting a laser on right not because I don’t have night vision. Always wanted any Eotech but I’ll be putting the aimpoint t2 on there because I took it off the benelli. Eotechs battery life is terrible but I’d love to own one, throw it on an mk18 or something. Either way, if you break into someone’s house and your meeting a beretta 1301 or an sig rattler on the other side, your done for lol.
@@GearAndGuns dude you know what’s a great red dot,,the Sig Romeo 8t 100,000 hour battery life,, you can choose between 4 dot styles,, you can use just a Dot,,you can switch to a circle dot and then if to need to go long range you can switch to the Holds dots or a circle dot with holds,,it’s NV capable,,,Shake awake,, it’s Ipx-8 waterproof and fog proof and a titanium shroud,, it is a bit bulky but you really feel like u get your moneys worth
Waaaaay too much lube, just dunk it next time.
@@TheCenturion8404 You’re right it was a little too much lube in some areas, that’s why I just wiped the excess away. The oil bottle in the video was a poor dispenser. I prefer to have more lube than less, so I over do it sometimes to make sure it gets in all areas. Dunking is a bit extreme. Not only do I not have that amount of oil but it would make a much bigger mess and a waste of oil.
WAY WAY TO MUCH OIL
Beretta has a video on the right way to clean and lube.
Congratulations you just caused yourself more problems doing it wrong!
The bottle is a bad oil dispenser. Too much comes out. Yes it was too much but I didn’t oil it wrong and it’s not going to cause more problems, it runs more smoothly.
I’m good not taking mine apart
@@stevenmeansphotography3861 That’s alright. I’m not the best at it either. It takes some practice and can be finicky. Gets easier the more you do it.
no fn way. too complicated. could never be a military gun. btw, use grease not oil. That much oil will only attract dirt , carbon , powder etc.
@@lundysden6781 Benelli m4 is a military shotgun and has a similar disassembly. I wiped away the excess oil. These guns have self cleaning systems so they’ll clean themselves. Not too worried about the build up, just want it to run smooth. Feel free to use grease if you prefer that, I’ve just always used oil and it’s worked fine for me plus It’s what I have. Hope this helped on some way.
@@lundysden6781 It can be difficult the first few times but the more you do it the easier it gets.