FIXING Our Framing Mistake - Lesson Learned!!
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- Опубликовано: 22 сен 2023
- Hey Gang! As you know, we made a modification to our 2x4 exterior wall because we didn't feel it was as strong as it should be. After all of this work we've done to it, we definitely feel like we did the right thing in breaking it down so we could build it up! Thanks for all of the concern and useful comments! Getting so close to that inspection!
Metabo Palm Nailer - amzn.to/3ZsitbY 
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I think one of the most important parts of this series is explaining the mistakes you are making! Thank you!
This…!
only with acknowledging your faults can you improve, this builder should be in demand, I hope we have more builders out there like him
As a builder, I love watching these videos. It's nice to sit in my comfy chair and watch someone else work, and you guys do a great job!
It is my dream to build my own house one day
Your attention to detail is exquisite. I can tell you the average tract framer......is not you guys. You will NOT regret one second of the added work you are putting in. Keep up the great work.
So true!
My dad built his house in 1957-1958 and installed American Standard wall mounted toilets. And to this day there has NEVER been an issue with either bathroom 🚽.
Good stuff George’s Dad! That’s awesome to hear 💪🏼
I don't think those had tanks in the wall, like a urinal, they have a pressure flush valve. There is nothing wrong with a wall mounted toilet as the waste flange is flush to the wall and the the toilet can be taken off with complete access to the seal, just like a urinal. This Toto toilet has a plastic tank in the wall with all kinds of stuff buried in the wall. I see long term problems with this. . .
@@groovy1937 Its not just plastic. Its HDP. Those tanks last 20+ years in horse pastures with direct sunlight. Unless it freezes there will be no issues.
@@mtbasshead That's fine to hear. That isn't my concern or point. You should have an access panel and actually that should be code. Things fail, there is more in there than just the tank. I wish them good luck, but no way would I install that and not have access, I wouldn't install on an outside wall either. I would install it with a closet on the other side with an access panel to the back of the install, just like what is done for tubs to access the plumbing.
@@groovy1937 That's no different than saying you need to have access to the pee trap under your floor. Shit happens. Worst case is what 3x4 piece of sheet rock removed, some tiles? These toilets are MORE reliable than the standard throne. They're putting these in 5+ million dollar home around here. Ide say they've proved their success.
I've been in the trades for almost 55 years now. You guys are easy to watch, easy to learn from and your attention to detail is spot on. Kudos guys.
The effort of not just running to the lumber yard and using what's there is impressive, so often you see dumpsters full of valuable lumber.
MM-fe9mz, you are probably thinking of before Covid / Biden quadruple priced lumber.
I'm sure someone has already mentioned it but as remodelers you will never regret purchasing a positive placement nailer. It is without a doubt one of the biggest time saving tools we can own. Some tools are just nice to have but a strapshot is amazing to have. On a side note, there's definitely a point where there are too many nails. All those nails going 2/3 deep lengthwise into a 2x4 definitely increases the likelihood that it will want to split the long way as it expands and contracts. The only reason I mention this is because I've heard from sources that that's why we don't use 16D in floor and roof sheathing. Think about some of the decks you've torn out where just having 8D ringshank every ~3" or so has caused the joists to split on the top. Just food for thought for the future. Love the vids guys.
that is what i was worried about. it might have 176(?) holes in the plate but dam only use every 6-8" w offset like putting 2 pieces of wood together. but then knowing these guys they probably researched that too. i like their work and got my palm nailer for replacing steps under railing on my deck several yrs ago.
these straps are engineered
@@Equipment-ki3qu Yes they are, for a variety of applications, including this one. However, the optimal material that these straps are used on would be a veneered/engineered lumber rather than kiln dried, as to not rely on a specific grain pattern. LVLs, PSLs, LSLs, would be unbothered with by this nailing pattern, but with KD you get a ton of varying grain patterns, so they're banking on the grain pattern of these particular plates to be perfect for this in the long run through a fluctuation of moisture content. I've dealt with many engineered products that look much better on paper than in practice. Engineers are just lucky that a lot of field guys are pretty versed in problem solving. The reality is that these gable walls were fine after they put in the LVLs and these straps are just a superficial formality to get the write off from the inspector.
Hikoki/Metabo HPT has cordless metal connector nailer, fully battery operated , it's been out a year now.
I probably would have added a 16-inch LVL across the entire wall and just padded it out to 2x6 depth.
We dealt with this exact situation on a house that had two huge sliding glass doors underneath a Gable end window.
I was so happy to see that router jig come out right before you drove them nails in. Love it.
No sure why they nailed them though. Hard to tell just from video, but looked like those counter sinks were actually sized for screwheads.
Stay positive guys! We all are Monday morning quarterbacks but some of us say it nicer than others. You came up with a fantastic fix and it looks great. Keep knocking out those videos. Can’t wait to see it all take shape.
Hey studpack. I saw the rendering of the main house you just showed. Make sure to account for window coverings for that peaked window when you build the house! I see a LOT of architects not account for window coverings, then the homeowner is unhappy with all of the options because a shade in a pocket in the ceiling is no longer possible. Obviously the pocket has to be horizontal, not angled, a roller shade won't work at an angle. Keep that in mind, especially for a bedroom where light coverage is critical! I do interior window coverings for a living and see this all the time.
There are many shades that work for angled windows.
Those Toto toilets are common here in BC. Don’t know why so many people are questioning them. They are great!
Because everyone on here thinks they have an engineering degree.
Mainly because an in wall toilet tank on an exterior facing wall in most northern states runs the risk of freezing if it’s not insulated properly.
That and electric flush toilets can prove to be troublesome.
Or why you wouldn't put in a bidet toilet when renovating a bathroom. It just makes sense.
But seriously we question it because of planned absolescence. It is one of America's prominent business plans. So they're afraid that every 5 to 10 years they're going to have to rip out the wall to replace it, because the company deliberately sabotage the equipment.
Because the ease of toilet repair or replacement is gone when you use those. I would never install that terrible toilet.
@@crosisofborg5524exactly.
Guys, European here. You don't need to put plywood behind that Toto. You also don't need an access panel. Everything is accessible through the flushing panel. Don't over think it. there are plenty of european youtube channels that can show you how to do it. And for the main house, just go with Geberit, the absolute gold standard when it comes to wall mounted toilet.
europeans agree ;)
The other European here.... I totally agree.
Actually they do Canada has building codes and laws. UK is not Canada
I always look forward to your videos. I appreciate that you are honest and show the setbacks and solutions. Keep up the good work.
Guys, Yes, it is your first ground up build, but the fact that it was structurally designed and signed off by both an architect and structural engineer and resulted in a wobble wall amazes me. That's why smart people like yourselves spend the $$ to retain architects and engineers rather go "wing it" and discover way too late you have, at best, an unsound or, at worst, a dangerous structure. My opinion.
💯
They spent $$ instead of winging it and still ended up with a bad result. This is why I like standard, time-tested designs instead of custom architecture. Those big windows are awesome, but they compromised the structure of the wall.
They weren't using trusses in the design, sometimes field changes can cause unforeseen issues. At the end of the day, it's a group effort to ensure a solid build, and the guys on the ground are key to that effort.
this was 100% my question
I bet there was some design on the fly and lack of coordination. The truss people could have alerted them to this. it is standard practice. NOT standard practice to deliver a flat bottom gable truss for a sissors truss roof.
You guys are legends.
Not only recording A-Z of your construction process but also sharing your mistakes.
Very informative. Thanks 🙏
Ahhh!!!! Blessed with another Stud Pack video so soon! Love you guys and the knowledge, love, and positivity you always share with us! I have been looking forward to every video you post for over a year!
it's so impressive to see Paul's years of experience in simple little things like formulas and determining angles that I would be lazy and just figure out with technology.
Mistakes are going to happen with your first home build. But you're willing to admit it and show us how you're attempting to alleviate it. Thank you for taking us along
Just when I am feeling at little bit low, you guys come along and make me smile.
Thank you!
Timing on these videos are perfect! I get to relax on my weekend with some stud pack!
You guys rock. You’re giving me motivation to finish all my house projects. Keep it up!
I love when a new Stud Pack video drops!
YES!!! My inner OCD/desire to have everything done "right" (EG the way you have the entire front wall smooth) is SO HAPPY you routed out a recess for that strongtie! Little touches like that are AWESOME! The drywallers will thank you, too!
I know, right? I was thinking that before he even climbed onto the scaffolding. "But it's gonna stick out!! The drywall won't lay flat!" So glad they did it properly.
I love your videos, the way you guys work together says a ton about your family. If I could make one safety note from someone who has worked on rolling scaffolding most of his life. Get into the habit of yelling “moving” before ever rolling the set, first the one on the ground, then a “moving” response from anyone on the scaffolding. Most of the accidents I’ve had is someone reaching out to move me closer to a wall (thinking they’re helping) and throwing me off as I’m leaning over the edge. It’s a great habit to get into because it’s a long way down.
I really love this series! Its especially cool to see you come back and follow up on items covered in previous videos and explain how you build on previous work, both figuratively and literally, and document how you mitigate any potential issues. Keep up the great work. I'm definitely rooting for your success.
Apparently all of the internet's structural engineers have congregated in this comments section. Well done team. Anywho, despite the armchair builders here, this series has been awesome and is one of my weekend "go-to's" in the morning as i ease into my own plans. I, as well as others, really appreciate the transparency in the videos, including the mistakes and fixes. What you're doing isn't easy and a first-time build like this is bound to come across mistakes you'll learn from. Great stuff, Stud Pack.
I can't build at home too? It only stays on the job site?
Wasn’t expecting a new video today! Great surprise! I’m glad you are feeling better about the wall!
You guys are hilarious! What I love is your honesty, you just show it the way it is, mistakes and all. Love it!
When I had my builder build my house, I had him put blocking between all the studs where I would need either curtain rods, pictures, tv wall mounts, cabinets hung (kitchen and bath), any place I thought I wanted blocking. I actually took their waste cutoffs, used a Kreg jig for pocket holes, set up my saw, and created all the cuts and had his workers install them where I marked the studs. He hated it, but did it. After the dry wall and paint went up, I loved knowing I was prepared and all my picture frames, tv wall mounts, etc.. went into a stud and not just dry wall. It really took little time and effort. Not all was pocket screws and a lot of it he just had his workers use a nailer, unless in or near a corner, like for curtain rods. Yes I took pictures of all my walls before insulation and dry wall went up. I can now see exactly where all my blocking is in the walls. I want to hang floating shelves, it's already there. TV swing wall mount. No problem. That full length 250 lb mirror. Got it. This was not a spec home, but my home. And as a home owner, I love knowing I have blocking where needed. Just a thought. (I ran both 2x4 blocking and 2x6 for tv mounts. Some areas, stacking the 2x6s on top of each for 3-4 strips of blocking.) Of course, his running joke was, "I should have just hung up plywood under the drywall.... LOL" because I did have enough blocking. :)
I agree the gable wall should have been 2X6,, but an alternative, especialy with a 2X6 or 2X8 wall is a continuous microlam header above the windows. Cap the pair of microlams with ripped plywood with the micro lams spaced to the inside and outside and infill the space with insulation. Use a high yield urethane insulation 2 inches thick. Right now,, as you realized, every element is short, discontinuous, and the wall flexes like crazy. Also,, within the trusses, use your lacers at the connection points and then run a long diagonal, both left and right to turn the entire truss package into your wall stiffener. A diagonal member run on the top of the bottom chord will stiffen the entire house. It works. I have done similar many times.
I love when he is explaining the flawed wall, at 4:33 the wall wobbles
Actually, Paul just has old man strength. Any wall he touches or breathes on wobbles.
Brilliant repair work and attention to detail. Most builders would stop and say it meets code or it's what the engineer designed. You went the extra mile and did the right thing. That's a true professional.
My friend brought me along to help finish a siding job on a house before the rains hit.
I'd honestly never done any sort of construction work, so they tasked me with an easy job of attaching a bunch of brackets to the rafters before they installed the soffit.
Using a palm nailer was one of the most satisfying things I've ever done, such a neat tool.
You're not kidding when you say they're loud.
I don't think a $1800 toilet is gonna "blow up". I think Toto has the engineering sorted out just fine. That is a gold standard throne. Most people take the risk on a $150 big box toilet, so I think you're in good shape. I think lots of folks are just jealous that they can't stomach the huge price tag for the Toto. Love that you recessed the galvanized strap into the wall. Nice touch.
Plus if you don't want the Mercedes you can also get a Chevy wall mount for about $450 total - $225 or so each for the mount/tank and the seat.
@@funkygawy I'm glad you didn't say 351 Windsor 👍
Nobody in the real world is jealous of a toilet.
Wall mount, fine.
Inside the wall, no way in hell.
$1800 wow...I installed a Geberit system last month,which is basically the same thing, for 300 Euro and that included the toilet.
@@randywl8925Great engine. Shame it came from Ford
Ideas for your wall:
- You could use close cell foam to insulate and increase the wall's strength greatly
- You can use a thicker drywall just on the ends.
Great work!
I'm typically not a spray foam fan, but I thought of it as well in this application to strengthen the wall more if needed
Could you sheath the interior of the end walls with 1/2” plywood and then just put drywall over that for added strength?
Pretty sure they said they're using 5/8 drywall in the whole garage build.
I think the problem with using anything not in their estimated 5/8 wall thickness range is getting the window to match the wall thickness. Can you just skim coat mud over 5/8" plywood?
@@scorpiorysing that would not be fun to do lol.
Not the most interesting video but one of the most informative. I appreciate your willingness to admit mistakes and fully detail the corrective steps for them. It's a great learning opportunity, and projects of this size absolutely do not go off without a hitch - like you saw with the roofing trusses and keeping them (or not) all in the same direction. A valuable piece of knowledge that you don't know until you learn it. Now you've taught us, thank you!
It's crazy to think that four separate eyes of "professionals" overlooked/missed the framing issue with those two walls. Really makes you wonder what else they miss!
I just started watching you guys. I love seeing Dad teaching his son. I wish my dad wad still around.
I’m leaning a lot watching you guys. Honestly, seeing mistakes corrected is a much better video. We’d all prefer things go right the first time, but something inevitably happens.
Having an additional internal truss adjacent to each gable end wall truss would have stiffened the gable walls and provided a drywall fastening surface at the same time. Instead of rat runs, discuss with the engineers the addition of continuous bridging on the truss chords and 3(+) bays of diagonal cross-bridging (top chords to bottom chords) at each end. The possibility of substantial wind loading on the gable ends is high and more bracing would be prudent.
Yeah, what he said. 👀 I think they could've used your help from the beginning. 😅
What Chief said.
@@brian_atc After 22 years in the Navy, I worked in Structural Engineering for 30 years. I commented based on my extensive experience. I am not trying to come across as a Know-it-All. There are always options available for every building design. Jordan’s consultants provided their design solution. I would have taken a different tactic in designing the structure but my solution would have been only one of several competent options. Thank you for commenting.
I live in a high wind and earth quake code area and most plans call out for rat runs every 10' on all truss webs and bottom cords, x bracing at gable ends and other random bracing. They get very stiff after this.
@@ArcConAK💯
I am really loving this entire build so far and keep it up. Great work and I love seeing how you fix those mistakes that will crop up from time to time.
"Dude, That's an EASY Fix!" Friggin' Priceless!!!!!! Stud Pack, Sr., U R the Best!!!
As I noted in the last video I would have framed out a box shelf using LVL and other material to give both lateral and medial support to the wall. It will give you a shelf to put paintings, plants, RUclips plaques, etc and break up the giant wall.
Looking up portal walls and the intricacies of them would probably be helpful for you in the future. Basically you ended up with the same issues that portal walls have with garage doors quite often.
Stud Pack crew - IMO a true sign of a skilled tradesperson is how one goes about fixing a mistake. Impressed with how you go the extra mile. Congrats on the wall repair.
Crazy how far yall went. I have enjoyed binge watching your channel since I forget to come on here often. I learned all the basics of construction from yall and the Perkins crew. great job gang
can confirm, i put in that exact toilet in my house with a lot less framing and just used drywall as well, works just fine. for several years now. you guys have been way over doing things... and its great! so the skepticism is rarely warranted from these commenters
03:29 - Here and in the last video, it's nice to see the projected outcome here and there, to help viewers get hyped about your progress. More of that, please! Also, continued appreciation for the Stud Pack's hard work and entertaining content!
Paul, Jordan, you guys are the BEST. Thanks for the amazing lessons. I am attempting to convert one of my bathrooms from bathtub to walking shower for the first time. It should be fun. Thanks as always for giving me courage to attempt this project. Peace
Not a builder per se, your channel has become addictive. You always deliver more than you promise, more than you take. An amazing chapter in humanity's catalog. You ennoble our lives. Thank you, though NOT enough! Just marvelous! Do I dare say, God bless you?
All told, I think your fixes for the wall are terrific. However, I would suggest in the future you use a simple rule: All external walls should be 2×6. It solves so many issues that it is worth the extra cost.
Thats not a simple rule… most houses are 2x4 construction due to simply the cost, and they are just fine. That may be the rule with custom builds but not in general
@@TT-ik3kdmost? My region 2x6 is minimum and my city requires 2x8 for R value!
ya i was going to say most places require 2x6 now for r value ... I take it you live somewhere that get real cold or real hot@@pfak
Stop catering to old school Americans. The world is so a head of the US in design
Most of the new construction by me is 2x4 even big expensive houses.
EDIT: (existing homes as well)
I had a bit of a rough time building my first shed a couple years ago... I can't imagine a house! Lol. Ignore the haters stud pack Crew! Love the content!
Another great video. Love your optimism and ability to overcome problems.
I like how you show a problem and fix it. I built a 40x60 barn with a huge loft. It was crazy wobbly until I got the floor and some shear walls up. Some storms blew through before the floor went down and the east wall was bowing out like 8" over the 40' width. That was years ago. Just last year the barn survived 90 mph winds, but I always get real nervous during storm season!
Don't forget the stud bays have to be fire-blocked at the top so there's no passage for fire from the wall cavities to the attic. This is why one method is to balloon frame to a top plate at the ceiling then add a truss on top of that. The wall is braced at the ceiling level (you can add rat ties as well to the truss). The way you have this with the truss, it is going to be harder to block up in there. Use two boards or notch every block. I made the same comment about the strap in that previous video. For the tension tie: it is only for tension, you don't have to worry about the flexibility. Coil straps (thinner) are used all over for this. The code gives the number of nails--you don't have to nail every hole, just the number needed for the required load. This is super strong and you had fun doing it.
So I've noticed a small issue with your framing, It's not a real big deal but you could save a lot of time by controlling your framing nailer a bit better. By this I mean you guys anticipate the recoil and pull off as the nail goes in, resulting in a lot of your nails not driving all the way in. I would suggest this technique: always be trying to push the nailer through the board you are nailing, like you are using the palm nailer. I know it sounds dumb but I will save you time not having to hammer in those nails left sticking out.
Yep, I noticed also. It’s pretty common.
I have noticed weeks ago. Usually, beginners make that mistake by pulling the nail gun away. I hoped that would have learned by now.
Also, for nails that have glue on them, that glue melts when shot and dried immediately... having to hammer in the nail after that ruins that extra hold.
Nice job strengthening the end walls with the Simpson strap and the truss ties! i particularly liked your method of recessing the Simpson strip into the 2 x 4's!
Brings back memories. I was a framer for 14 years then got into home remodeling. I usually do kitchens and baths. I can tell you I don't miss it. Winters were brutal. Setting trusses on icing plates will make the toughest guy to be considered. Lol maybe you need another head guard for protection. Lol my old boss would say, " come on Nancy!!"
Getting more and more solid! I still think an interior layer of structural sheathing would provide more peace of mind, and less stress on those gigantic windows (can’t wait to see those go in too)
I've an idea for the panel for the toilet! MAGNETS!
You can make a panel that has all the fixings on it like tile etc but on the back you counter sink a few strong magnets on the back and that will help you access the entire frame and interior of the system!
That’s what I did. I used magnetic cabinet latches.
Why would you need to access the frame? It's not going anywhere
The beginning of this video brings back memories of the hand drive days before air guns. You just havnt lived till you nailed off a thousand square feet of decking by hand before lunchtime. We all make mistakes, and you kicked that ones ass. well done.
I was in the hospital and just got home, checked RUclips (I had no phone) saw this video and was so excited to see a new video! As I have done framing for 3.5+ years I am glad to see the learning.
Get well soon
Loving all your videos I want to see more videos keep up the good work
Glad to see your installing the gable truss L - bracing that detail should have been included in your truss engineering from the truss company.
We just finished installing our 2nd hanging toilet in our 2nd home. We've had these systems for the last 30 years. Never had any issues. It looks and works wonderful.
Always learn something new from watching your show. Thanks
Do the access panel with French cleats and caulk, so all you have to do is cut the caulk and use some suction cups to pull it away from the wall... you'll have to bevel the tiles to match the cleats, but I'm sure you all are up to it! Maybe someone knows if this is ever even done in those European/Asian areas where these are more common...?
IMO, there's no reason for all that. All the internal mechanisms can accessed and replaced through the control panel. By the time this thing deteriorates to a point of needing to be replaced you'll be ready for a remodel anyways. The only real issue you can have is if someone puts a nail through the tank.
they literally plaster these in to the walls in Europe, so no - access panels aren't common for this
I have never seen an access panel on these, neither commercial nor home construction. The toilet flush IS the access panel for the parts that are likely to fail. The lifetime of the inaccessible parts is longer than the likely lifetime of the bathroom before it's renovated - and even then, if the toilet isn't moving they just re-use the tank and mount, and hang a new bowl.
I look at this from the other side: wax seals and floor bolts fail all the time on US toilets - indeed the design almost guarantees a cascade of rusting bolts, wobbling toilet, wax seal failure, leading to subfloor rotting out and all those consequences... If we took the "access panel" idea to its logical conclusion, we should put floor-mounted toilets on a removable piece of floor!
Yep and life happens so if you have an access panel how much work does it save when life takes a turn?
@@fd3871 A double skin of drywall is fixed onto the wall and toilet frame, I'd forget about an access panel, no need for it
A visible horizontal beam along the 'big' gable walls could be an optical divider between 'room' and 'roof' and will reinforce the wall stiffness.
I used to work in new construction and renovation as a carpenter, and I have direct, clear, fond memories of the first time I used a palm nailer to place joist hangers. Never went to a job site without one from then on. Now it lives in my shop.
I love my palm nailer!!! I don't use it every day but when you need it, it's awesome!!!
Are you guys the drywall team you’re preparing for? 😂
Watched so many videos of you fixing/ replacing drywall and ceilings… I think you’ve got it in the bag! 😊 Hi from Australia 🇦🇺❤
Wow MSTC66 is about 7800 lbs of tension, you need about 1200 lbs for a double top plate, so that will work. And yes it was a good idea to ballon frame any walls over 10ft. And yes the 4ft 2x4 tie-back was also a great idea. I would have blocked it so that the drywall diaphragm could be nailed to it adding more rigidity. All of these are definite improvements.
In the US, we design for at least 100 mph wind, and category "A" Seismic the greater become controlling. It is very clear that in the shear design, this is too narrow for an 8ft wall, but you have a 14ft vaulted wall.
I would drag the headers and window sill plates as a force transfer, continuously blocked between the headers and sill plates with a Simpson coil strap end to end. OR shear the inside of the wall tying the RR to the bottom plate with all boundaries and edges blocked. Both would be better. I am not saying that it is unsafe but a little more work is simple at this stage.
It’s great watching a stand out repair!
I'll tell you where it came in real handy was between close joists. I was adding some blocking to a raised shed floor and it was INVALUABLE to add hangers for blocking.
One of our favorite places to use a palm nailer!!
Old rough cut Douglas fur in a 1887 house, that wood is like a rock. Palm nailer was a must was not much room to swing the hammer and the wood was tough.
I love my palm nailer… it’s the only power nailer I own. As a DIYer with just one old house to maintain/upgrade, a framing nailer would hardly ever be useful, so I don’t mind the occasional tediousness of using the palm nailer on those few occasions where I COULD use a framing nailer.
@@hrcnick11 - I feel you! It’s 50+ year-old Douglas Fir in my house, and it might as well be iron.
Jordan said something about Paul's PPE.
Back in the late '70s, I was working at an aircraft manufacturer in Oklahoma. The machine I was on was a radial arm router, which pretty much did what it sounds like it did. You'd lay sheets of aluminum on a big, flat, wooden-top table, and use a big-ass router on an articulating arm to cut out aircraft parts. So you're cutting on the horizontal plane instead of vertically, like when you cut out the windows and doors from the sheathing.
Instead of wood shavings, it threw off massive amounts of metal shavings, or burrs, as you might imagine.
In addition to a plastic apron, sleeve protectors (similar to welding sleeves) and a do-rag for my head, I was wearing a respirator, safety glasses with side shields, and a face shield like the one Paul had on.
Don't you know that a few burrs (tiny metal slivers - it was nasty work) bounced off my plastic apron, off the inside of the face shield, up between the glasses and the side shield, and into my eyeball. I had to go to the emergency room to get the slivers out of my eyeball.
And oh, by the way, the company tried to say that I was not wearing any PPE, and that's why the accident happened. Fortunately, I was well-liked, and my co-workers stood up for me, saying that I had indeed been wearing more than the required amount of PPE (face shield only was required).
Great job - well done - good recovery on the stability of the wall.
I love y'alls explanation on the process. Keep up the good work 💪💯
The comments on these toilets is funny. I may be spoiled but I work primarily in high end custom homes (electrician) and these toilets are everywhere. I guess I take it for granted. These toilets are standard here
*there is another youtuber that does a lot of tile work. He built a access panel and hid it all by making a tile sheet that you can remove*
Another video full of valuable information and techniques, God bless you guys, Keep Rocking. I am enjoying each moment of your videos.
Belt, suspenders, *and* bungee cords. Nice solution and attention to detail Studpack!
Look at Matt Risinger video. He installed a Toto and somebody accidentally puncture the tank and when dry walls, tile and paint was done, they noticed a leak and it was the hole in the tank. Be careful with the nails around the system.
I looked up that toilet and I could not see paying $2000 for a toilet. Wow. The build is coming along really good.
I thought he paid around 1200
@@WickedIllusion1 1200 was for the toilet seat Toilet and tank were cheaper so 2k sounds right
Well, when you have a RUclips channel with enough subscribers, companies give you things so long as you show their product and say the name every 30 seconds.
@@kg4gav and? Advertising is Advertising.... don't like it? Don't buy it
..
The in-wall toilet frame is around $350 and the porcelain bowl, bought seperate, costs about $180. I've installed a few in remodels and have a mixed opinion on them. To me, the biggest pro's are gaining extra space and making things easier to clean. All in all, I kinda like them. Keep in mind that Jordan bought a set-up with a bunch of extra options.
As a novice, I appreciate your hack for fixing the gap at 7:54! I might have come up with a similar idea with enough time, but then again, maybe not! Love the little hints and tips all though your videos.
This job just keeps getting better and better - keep up the good stuff Stud Pack!
All your fixes look great to me. I want to hear the framing inspector's take on your solutions. I would guess he sees a lot of quick fixes in the field that don't make the grade.
Bostich has a pneumatic metal connector nailer that shoots a 1 1/2 in strap nail. It is the cat's meow for hurricane clips and such.
I dont understand how all these youtube builders arent aware of those, theyve been around for decades. Everyone i know would be like "wtf are you doing" where i am the nails they used are also the wrong nails
I was on a construction job back in '85, the 9:50 mark reminded me of when a guy was holding a board with his hand and the 16 penny nail took an unexpected turn when he squeezed the trigger on his HILTI and it encountered a knot and went into his hand. Always expect the unexpected, it's safer than complacency. 😊👍
Great job guys, keep moving forward! 👍
People are silly. In-wall tanks are pretty much standard in tons of countries.
...and a lot more sanitary since you can mop underneath them.
So is Metric, I don't understand why the US persists with such outdated processes
Should frame the cathedral ceiling like a hip roof. Not only will it give you a solid exterior wall where you should have ballooned framed, but it will look insane. My dad did it in our house, and with the flush mounted lights, it looks incredible. If you're interested I could send you some pictures. Good luck, and keep up the good work.
Haha I love your videos! You guys inspired me to do a lot of my home renovations myself, thanks for all the tips!
I build bathrooms in the Netherlands and install many wall-mounted toilets. And to this day there has never been a real problem with either bathroom. If you use tiles that are 5 to 6 mm thick, cracks may develop at the bottom of the toilet over time due to the pressure. That is why we install 8 to 10 mm tiles there. An anti-squeak foam is always supplied with the toilet, and we always install this between the toilet and the tiles to prevent squeaking noises. In the video, you also talked about an access panel. If all is installed well, there is a tap behind the plastic access panel from the inside of the toilet to turn off the water, and it is always accessible, so I don't see the point in that.
Make sure you get licensed engineer approval letter for inspector for what you did there lol 😂 😂😂
Being a builder myself I just wonder how much you deteriorated the top plates with an additional 150 nails.
NEXT time 2x6 Doug Fir Studs and Balloon Frame the wall. No glue lams go with the tried and true construction.
From renos to full builds. Amazing boys
Love watching these videos!!! Can’t wait for next week
Pack don’t listen the negative comments there are some people who will never give a compliment. You mistakes like anyone does but you own up to them and fix them and that’s the key. Good fix.
Hey guys, you might want to consider putting a nail plate or something on the back side of the TOTO to protect the tank from an accidental puncture. Matt Risinger’s cabinet carpenter put a fastener through his in wall toilet tank from the opposite side of the wall when installing his entertainment center cabinetry (see episode “T-Minus 3 Weeks”) My concern is, the same thing could happen here when installing the exterior siding or mounting some sort of exterior fixture. Matt said the manufacturer did not offer a replacement tank and the only option would be to replace the entire carriage assembly at about $500 bucks, that’s a hard hit to the budget and then to do that install work over again, yikes! Residential In wall toilets have been around for as long as I can remember, well, at least since the 1960’s. I can’t imagine the design is that much different. The manufacturer could make a simple design change by adding a permanent protective back plate to the carriage assembly and save everyone a lot of hassle. 😊
In the first video He said there is about 2 inches behind the Toto because of the 2x6 framing
They also mentioned that they are going to be marking the exterior so they don't accidently put something near the tank from outside.
Yeah but what about the next guy 20 years down the road. metal "nail plate" good forever. @@ajbrown7245
I get that there is a 2 inch gap from the outside wall to the toilet, but it wouldn't be Stud Pack if it wasn't overprotected.
You have PHENOMENAL taste in circ saws! That P-C 743 Framesaw is the best ever made, PERIOD! I'm glad I still have mine, considering they don't make them anymore! A travesty really!
I love this channel guys. I've learned alot from yall. Thank you. 👍
"Smart Toilet" sounds like something that posts on your facebook timeline everytime you take a seat.