@@FordBossMe It's a shame that getting the little bag of caps is so expensive, i understand they used to be bags of 4 or 5, but all listings i see now are $6+ dollars plus shipping for one single cap.
Great tip! I get the grinding from the IWE rubbing from time to time. I changed the smal valve and it got better. Now I'm going to try to change the acuator and see if that does the trick, of not I'll just go with this setup. I drive 95% in town anyways so it wont make much difference for me. Thanks for posting this.
Buddy of mine was into buying scrap/surplus 2-1/2 ton 6wd military trucks from Fort Ord. Out of several he'd make one. He'd check out the sprag in one of the gearboxes by driving out of town to where there was a big fat irrigation standpipe. He'd put the bumper against the pipe and spin all the tires. Ops check good!
Beautiful. I was just about to replace the iwe on both sides and the front diff because the diff is noisy. The iwe were giving me a low speed grown but if I can just lock them in and replace the diff with out having to spend more money on the iwe system. Great info. Thanks 🙏
Hey Rich. Getting a inside look into The "Mechanic " At the Dealership is like having your DAD or Brother working there giving you the tips on how it works. It's like learning exactly how you do the thing's your doing Then getting the inside scoop. Then using it to your advantage. It really is a breath of fresh air. You are doing a great job showing us. Getting rid of this Taboo area into this almost secret space of car repair and maintenance. Shawn.
That's what I'm trying to do keep it open for everybody and then if they can't do it and they want to bring it to me I'm here I'm gonna treat them fair
@@FordBossMe Yes! Rich. All along. I have been watching your channel. You are setting a new trend in your field. A expert who allows us to come along. You have covered Ford's. There a huge desire for what your channel is putting out. Where I work ten guys. Are faithfully watching every video. The discussion of such videos at every lunch is the topic. Our parking lot at work is filled with Ford Trucks, cars, SUV'S and Town cars and Crown Vic's. I have said you are on to something really Big. The scope of your RUclips Channel is right on the spot. No one is buying new. But repairing and maintenence of older vehicles. Is the thing. Stay true and honest. That's the key difference. Shawn.
This way works I've put probably 6,000 miles on the vehicle this way with no issues but it doesn't fix the Hub actuators it just eliminates them basically
Doing it this way removing the vacuum from it allows you to have four wheel drive again but realize everything is rotating now except for the transfer case so yes there's a little bit more wear but it's not that much
I had this happen to me, and it drove me nuts trying to figure it out. It only happened when I feathered the gas slowly in 2WD when going forward at any speed. As long as I feathered the gas, it sounded like something was clacking or not engaging. Simple enough fix that I didn't know at the time. This would have saved me some coin for sure.
This is an amazing video! I have 90k miles on my 15 and had to replace the whole bearing assembly on both side because of these vacuum actuated hubs. I live in the extreme cold and the vacuum isn't strong enough to fully disengage at times, so they eat each other. Very costly!
For the 2020 models there's an updated bulletin (20-2307, models 2006-2020) which recommends to do the same thing, but without the reprogramming. I have removed the same vacuum line and installed vacuum caps on both ends a few days ago, which permanently locks the IWE actuators and the grinding noise I was was hearing from time to time is gone now. So far I haven't experienced any problems with this permanent lock, even if I step on it. No noise, no vibrations, no nothing.
@@greghoffman3146 I bought 2 sets of different size vacuum caps from a local automotive store (Canadian Tire) and just tried which one fits most snug. The product is called "Dorman HELP! Vacuum Cap Assortment" with the following sizes 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8", (2) 3/16", (2) 1/4". I had to use one cap from each set, so the correct size would be one of these 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8"
As a first time ford owner I really appreciate all the updates you give in our trucks! Really nice to have someone looking out for us! Would you say there’s a problem with running the iwes and axles locked at all times?
Only thing I’ve seen with systems that spin the 4wd system all the time even when not engaged is that I’ve seen a lot of pinion seal leaks on dodges that have that same system. It’s kinda hard to beat the 97-03 f150 center axle disconnect system haven’t seen a quarter of the issues as the iwe system but when the iwe system is fully functional it’s the smartest way to do it.
*I loved the 4W Auto in my 2015 Platinum. I could use it on the street without binding like a traditional 4W HI would do* The only thing, as with most transfer cases, is to be sure to roll a few feet so they engage before using heavy throttle. Else it or the front hub etc would poop out and make horrific sound when it did. 😮
@@FordBossMe Wait, when you took off the vaccum line, and capped it, locks the hubs in but not the transfer case, but 4A locks the hubs and puts the transfer case in a differential mode to allow front and rear axle differential? Also instaed of removing the vaccum line, an you simple reverse the check valve?
I had the same problem about 4 months ago. When looking in PTS, he told me to put a plug in between a vacuum line where I cut it. I took a plastic clip that I got from our body shop. It made the hose look natural, but I thought it was a cheesy fix. The other mechanics kind of laughed at Ford's fix for this problem. But the customer was happy and did not come back for the same issue.
This is why I like my old clunky shift on the fly transfer case on my jeep with the old school shifter lever to change modes, not as efficient while the front diff and driveshaft spins all the time but has went 235k no problems but a few u joints going bad
I have a 2018 with standard 2h 4h 4l type. I replaced both wheel bearings and IWEs . Vacuum tested everything and it holds vacuum. I still get an intermittent chatter and don't.wamt to spend the money replacing all those parts again so I just capped the vacuum like the 4A style. Seems to work fine now.
3:44 I agree in the tiny fuel mileage drop,but why increased tire wear? There’s a differential in the front the tires are free to spin at different speeds .What I noticed on mine is increased driveline vibration at highway speeds from spinning the front driveline at all times. I knew right away when my iwes weren’t working because you felt it.I’d been unhappy with this repair due to the highway NVH being worse . Maybe a front driveshaft rebalance would have helped but the truck only had 2000 miles on it I doubt anything was worn. I traded it in 3 months ago now that was just one of the many minor issues it had . Felt like it was always something,meanwhile my 11 Superduty f350 6.2 is a tank that just keeps going….
Hey Rich the vacuum line broke on my 2011 f 150 so the hubs were locked all the time . I noticed a 1 1/2 mpg decline in fuel mileage before I found the broken line. After I installed all new vacuum lines and the hubs were disengaged in 2 Hi the 1 1/2 mpg returned . Thanks for all your hard work !….
@@brookshardy593 I noticed it when changing the oil , it was broken where it attaches to the front crossmember right in the middle . The reason it broke was because the plastic vacuum line got brittle from age ( it is a 2011 ) . The new vacuum lines were $ 53 dollars on E Bay and Amazon. I also changed the solenoid valve and one way valve ( the cost for both were $ 29 dollars on Amazon . Do you know how to check if the system is working properly ?
@@thomasdaum1927 gotcha. And I believe so I don’t have a lift to Jack up my truck to check if the cvs are engaged. But, today i did check the vacuum going into the solenoid and it has good vacuum in 2H and none in 4H. Also took off the lines on the IWEs themselves and checked for vacuum which they did
@@brookshardy593 Sounds like you got it figured out . I Jack up one front wheel at a time and start the engine and see if the hub disengages . I check them every 5000 miles when I rotate the tires. Since I fixed the truck it is getting a solid 1 1/2 mpg more !
@@thomasdaum1927 good to know! And that’s the thing I’m still stumped as to why it’s still grinding. So maybe I do just need to see if it’s the Iwe. But the prior owner did have them replace because he had the same problem so not sure if the Iwe should fail 30k miles latwr
I just serviced my IWE's. They were pretty gummed up. Seems like something that should be serviced or replaced regularly. To me, this tsb is more of a bandaid.
Rich, would you recommend this fix for a f150 that has the fox 2.0 lift kit (complete strut). Mine was adjusted for 2.5 lift. With the lift, the angle for the cv shafts are more aggressive. I assume tracking down my IWE problem would be best in the long run to prevent all those additional parts from moving….
I'm not sure I like the idea of disabling the system that disengages them. This means the front drive train all the way back to the transfer case will be spinning all the time for no reason. One of the things I liked about the Fords having a disconnect at the hub is, in theory, it should be better all around to not have parts moving if you don't need to. Less wear and slightly better mpg.
Unfortunately this is what it is when you're driving a truck you're not driving it for fuel mileage and I hate to be that way but this is the best solution so far
@@FordBossMe I get it, it does make sense why ford is recommending this solution. It is still the best option for what it is, even if I don't like it. Too bad there isn't a way to manually permanently lock the hubs out of engagement. (where you could manually re-engage them when you want 4x4). But it defaults to engaged when everything is disconnected.
dobrze mowisz. nie tylko wiecej pali i zuzywa opony, ale lozyska przedniege dyferencjalu, krzyzaki przedniego walu sa caly czas obciazone i to w druga strone, bo napedzaja je kola a nie skrzynia rozdzialcza. zalaczenie na stale przednich kol to slaby pomysl dla zywotnosci przeniej lini napedowej. you say it right. not only does it burn more fuel and wear out the tires, but the front differential bearings and the front shaft cross-pieces are constantly loaded in the other direction, because they are driven by the wheels and not the transfer case. permanently engaging the front wheels is a bad idea for the life of the front drive line.
Manual four wheel drive shift on the floor never let me down. I own 3 fords 1979 f150 , 2005 F250, & 2012 F450 all with maunal four wheel drive shift and never had a problem.
Thank you, I wish I found this last year before hav8ng both IWEs replaced only for them to fail again. And who cares if the front diff is moving? The rear diff always spins already!
To:Ford Boss Me As one of your more than 108K subscribers and owner of a 2004 Expedition 4X4 I wanna thank you for all the videos you load up in this RUclips channel. While I watched this video I think of the same humming problem I'm having with my Expedition. I wanna change out both IWE's but while doing some research I discovered that Dorman makes a 600-105 vacuum delete IWE kit. So before I proceed with replacing both IWE's, can you please give us, your viewers, your honest opinion on which would be the better, the OEM IWE or the Dorman 600-105 vacuum delete kit? Please reply soon. Thanks again.
Does this cause excess wear and tear on the bearings and axle? Or, was the vacuum system something Ford did just to eek out some additional fuel mileage?
This is a great video as always! I have a 19' Lariat with the 4a option.Is it ok to leave it in this mode at all times? So many differing opinions on that.
You know I don't like when people leave it in four automatic all the time it just doesn't make any sense to me if it is in two wheel drive it's in two wheel drive if it's in four wheel drive it's in four wheel drive the only time that you would put it in 4x4 automatic as if it was a rainy slippery day and you're not sure if you would need it or not
I prefer the full-time AWD system Ford used on the 2000 Ford Explorer. Never let me down in 22 years. New or old, a big factor in long term viability of truck drivetrains is doing all of the regular driveline fluid changes.
Thanks for the update. My 2018 F150 5.0 has had a whining sound ever since I had the TSB for rattle on deceleration and TSB for oil consumption. TSB's helped those problem's but then I started getting new whining sound. Any suggestions? Thanks
This absolutely sucks, I noticed you drove it around in the parking lot. Get on the road and you will notice a lot more front end noise than you would if the original states in place. You would feel this way if you paid 60K for a truck plus premium warranty and they disconnected a system that’s been around for years just because they didn’t want to fix the actual problem.
I put the Dorman hub illuminators on my F150 best thing for the four-wheel-drive it works great fuel economy did not change at all I did to my sons F150 and my friends F150 for under $100 worth it
Yes but my was making noise all the tie and ford Dealer told me that was normal which I know it wasn’t because we have a lot of F150 four-wheel-drive at work
Love the channel. I have a2017 lariat fx4. Had the intermittent hub grinding. I disconnected the solenoid plug. Fixed. Any difference between your fix with removing the vacuum line and what I did?
You know I'm not really sure exactly how the system looks at it to the T I think the reason they have you remove the vacuum line is because you know at that point it's 100% blocked off as to where the solenoid could get stuck in a specific position that was causing the chattering anyway
Hey man love the content. Been having what I believe is an IWE issue. Grinding noise coming from what I think is the front passenger side. Mostly happens when decelerating and make a right turn at low speeds. Replaced the check valve and that didn’t help. I went on a drive and could hear what I believe was air escaping on the passenger side. Leads me to believe I mIght have a leak in the vacuum system? Any ideas or experience with this?
Why don't you keep the selector lever in two-wheel drive and unplug the vacuum solenoid going to the vacuum lines and go drive it so what's going to happen is you're going to have the iwe locked in the CV axles are going to turn the front differential is going to turn and the front drive shaft is going to turn but the transfer case is still going to be in two-wheel drive and if the sound goes away you know you have a vacuum Source problem so it would be one of the lines that you have to check Basically what I want you to do is use the video that you literally just watched to use a little common sense and I'm not saying you don't have it just use a little common sense use the message and the method that I put out in this video and the many many many other full diagnostic videos on the entire system to diagnose this I've literally given you the information and I've got like four videos in the library all talking about the iwes and the four wheel drive system where anybody literally anybody should be able to diagnose it without one single question
@@FordBossMe Thank you for the info I appreciate it I’ll go try that! And just to be sure I disconnect the right one. I see the power connector to the solenoid and then two connectors on the bottom of the solenoid. Which one is it?
The Ford dealer called me last week to reprogram the transmission on my 2019 F350, dually, crew cab, 4x4. They sent a service van and two techs to my house and the techs spent about 35 minutes with multiple restarts of the vehicle as part of the programming. Have no idea what the TSB was for, but I thought it was nice they came to my house instead of having me bring it to the dealer.
@@FordBossMe That's an interesting comment. The dealer is the smallest of the four Ford dealers in the area and is located in a town of about 15,000. The techs showed up in the largest Ford Transit van (dually rear tires) and the interior cargo area of the van was outfitted with toolboxes, parts storage, etc.
Confused but I'm just an amateur consumer but faithful listener. Wasn't there a discussion a few weeks ago concerning the 4A setting and that it was not a good idea to use it all the time? Isn't that the same thing that the bulletin fix does?
Additionally, capping the lines on 4A only equipped vehicles seems to have far less MPG impact - suspicion is that as the 4A tcase still rotates the front driveshaft in 2H due to fluid wash, so that front driveline assembly isn't as hard for the now engaged front axles to turn due to that indirect assistance from the tcase.
Different systems someone and in 4A it tries to engage the four-wheel drive when it detects wheel slippage or one turning faster than the other when you're in two wheel drive and you have the Hub actuators locked out you're not trying to engage the four wheel drive like you would be in 4a in a bronco
I need some help. I have a 2018 F150, and I recently replaced the driver side CV axle. After doing so I started hearing a grinding noise. I thought it was the wheel bearing, so I replaced the driver and passenger side. I still heard the noise. So now you're probably thinking it's the IWE. Well so was I, so I replaced the IWE check valve, and still heard the noise. I then replaced the solenoid and still heard the noise. I went and checked the IWE at the wheel bearing and when I applied vacuum the IWE moved in on both sides. I then checked the vacuum line to make sure there was no leak. Did not find any leaks. I noticed the noise comes on about half a mile after I left the area. Whether it's from home or work. The noise would sound around 25 MPH and start off with a low grinding sound. With higher speeds the noise would become faster and higher in pitch. It would stop around 55 MPH. I also noticed when I applied vacuum that the driver side axle would move. Shouldn't it not move? When vacuum is applied that would show that it's in 2-wheel drive, correct? Do you have any opinion on my situation?
Okay these are very finicky systems and the basic programming for this is after you leave the house it stays on for about a half a mile and then it completely goes into two wheel drive after you leave also installing those iwes correctly is very critical checking to make sure there's no vacuum leakage in the lines everything is very critical so outside of what you did I can't tell you what's wrong because you did everything that I would have thought but I think that maybe you need to watch my other videos on this iwe situation as well you have not watched them all I can tell you that
Had the exact same issue on my 2018 F150. Replace the solenoid and check valve assembly. It takes about 3 minutes and cost $60.00 from ford. Or, you can do what the video states and your gas mileage will suffer.
I have a 2017 F150 Lariat with 73,000 miles and my front diff already took a crap and it’s being replaced tomorrow. Of course Ford tells me there’s nothing they can do due to me being out of warranty so the $3800 will come out of my pocket at a local mechanic 🤦🏼♂️ Found some forum threads online of many people having this issue with F150s that have the 4A settings and front diffs going out. Have you heard of this? Also, do you think once I get my truck back from having new front diff installed that I should go ahead and cap this vacuum line as well? I’m just worried about the potential extra wear on the front end that I’m having replaced already. Thanks a lot
My 2018 Platinum (4A) started moaning/groaning when slowing down at low speeds (actually only started to notice it when the weather got cooler), took it in and they rebuilt the front diff. Like how's an 8.8" diff supposed to wear out when it's barely ever turning (my truck barely ever sees 4WD). Here I am 6k later and it's gotten cool again and now I'm hearing it, again. Wonder if it's actually just IWE issues and causing transfer case drag when slowing down with the 4 auto (clutch based) transfer case...
I had a low pitch hum/grind coming from under my feet in a 2017 f150 lariat. Had to have the entire front diff rebuilt at 30k miles under warranty. Im at 50k with my warranty up and the issue is back. Only used 4x4 once to get up my driveway in the snow, but the lariat 4x4 with 4a apparently is slightly engaged even in 2wd it is turning the front drive shaft. Should I do this to my 2017?
I have a 2019 F150 with the same 4A system and I’ve been hearing a humming/light vibration present at all speeds but more prevalent at low speeds. Gets much more noticeable at low speeds. Seems to almost disappear when In 4wd. Do you have any ideas on what could cause this? Some say that the differential goes bad prematurely on some of the vehicles equipped with 4A. Do you have any personal experience with that?
So your axles and front differential are going to be spinning all the time correct? I was wondering what are your thoughts about the reliability of old versus new versions?
I have a 15' platinum that has been nothing but trouble with the IWE. specifically the front drivers wheel. I only had the grinding noise when in 4a and 4h. Ive had the front hub replaced twice and they were shot each time. Will this fix that issue also?? I was going to convert it to manual before this winter but I would like to keep it electric.
Hey man, thanks for the video. I have a 2015 that has the 4a. Are you saying I can remove this vacuum line without doing any reprogramming? Sounds like a fantastic easy fix if so, my IWE have been humming for a while at low speed.
Will this take care of iwe grinding until the truck warms up? Also will this cause more parts to fail down the road? I have a 17 xlt with non auto 4x4.
There's a TSB out on the grinding for 17 to 20 model F150s and 19 and 20 already have the new programming but 17 and 18 don't and you have to reprogram the transfer case control module to leave it's not good enough I love you is engaged for the first half mile of driving before they release and it's supposed to take care of the noise
But since the hubs are locked it’s still gonna spin the front differential and spider gears, there just won’t be any engine power applied to it when in 2H?
Would this same concept apply to a 2014 F150 that has the same 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L setup? I always hear a slight hum in the front of the truck in the winter when decelerating below 30MPH. I assume I am losing vacuum ? Thanks for the video
I've got this same problem too. Replaced the solenoid and check valve and still have the issue. Checked iwes and under hood for vacuum and they all held fine. Next up is to try this.
Hey @tlr8611, do you have any follow up? I just started experiencing this as well, your description is the closest thing to what I have. It's not a grinding for me, its a groaning or humming, almost like the tires are rubbing but they clearly are not. In the cold, between 25-5 mph, and for me its accelerating and decelerating. I also replaced both the check valve and the solenoid with no improvement.
Just put a little cap on the line that goes down to the iwes pull it off the solenoid and put a little cap right there we don't have to overthink this man
I've had the same issue, but I just disconnected the solenoid. My hubs are locked in all the time. It will go into 4wd just fine when I flip the dash switch. What's the difference between the hose removal and unplugging the solenoid
My son has a 2015 f-150 lariat, He has a extremely load clunk , bang if in 4x4 and you put the beans to it dirt or pavement 4A 0r 4H sounds like its coming from the drivers side. we have replaced the wheel bearings, IWE'S and check valve that ford recommends. He has a leveling kit that raises the front 1" stock rims a little bigger tire. we have removed the front diff cover to look for chunks of gears but none. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
New owner with a 2018 F-150 Lariat. I have the binding/rubbing going on in front left wheel. I need to do this fix but I need to know what serves as a "cap" for the vacuum lines. Is there something I can order, or do I need to go to the dealership?
Is there a TSB reference number from ford??
Yes there is I've spoke about a previously let me stop doing what I'm doing so I can go back and grab it again
Tsb 22-2219
@@FordBossMe thank you
@@FordBossMe It's a shame that getting the little bag of caps is so expensive, i understand they used to be bags of 4 or 5, but all listings i see now are $6+ dollars plus shipping for one single cap.
@@FordBossMe Also looks like they back-dated this to be 2006-2020 F150's with 4A.
Loving this channel!!! Thank you for your Wealth of Knowledge !!! 🙏♥️
Thanks so much! Stay safe and keep up the good work! You’re a credit to your craft, not many like you around anymore. God Bless!
Great tip! I get the grinding from the IWE rubbing from time to time. I changed the smal valve and it got better. Now I'm going to try to change the acuator and see if that does the trick, of not I'll just go with this setup. I drive 95% in town anyways so it wont make much difference for me. Thanks for posting this.
Buddy of mine was into buying scrap/surplus 2-1/2 ton 6wd military trucks from Fort Ord. Out of several he'd make one. He'd check out the sprag in one of the gearboxes by driving out of town to where there was a big fat irrigation standpipe. He'd put the bumper against the pipe and spin all the tires. Ops check good!
Thanks for the video, procedure, and 411. Very valuable to the FORD community.
Thanks, my 2015 F150 just started doing this. Was getting ready to spend about $800 to take it to the shop. I'll try this.
Thank you for this video. It solved my problem and works great. Keep up the videos and great content.
Beautiful. I was just about to replace the iwe on both sides and the front diff because the diff is noisy. The iwe were giving me a low speed grown but if I can just lock them in and replace the diff with out having to spend more money on the iwe system. Great info. Thanks 🙏
Hey Rich. Getting a inside look into The "Mechanic " At the Dealership is like having your DAD or Brother working there giving you the tips on how it works. It's like learning exactly how you do the thing's your doing Then getting the inside scoop. Then using it to your advantage. It really is a breath of fresh air. You are doing a great job showing us. Getting rid of this Taboo area into this almost secret space of car repair and maintenance. Shawn.
Thanks
That's what I'm trying to do keep it open for everybody and then if they can't do it and they want to bring it to me I'm here I'm gonna treat them fair
@@FordBossMe Yes! Rich. All along. I have been watching your channel. You are setting a new trend in your field. A expert who allows us to come along. You have covered Ford's. There a huge desire for what your channel is putting out. Where I work ten guys. Are faithfully watching every video. The discussion of such videos at every lunch is the topic. Our parking lot at work is filled with Ford Trucks, cars, SUV'S and Town cars and Crown Vic's. I have said you are on to something really Big. The scope of your RUclips Channel is right on the spot. No one is buying new. But repairing and maintenence of older vehicles. Is the thing. Stay true and honest. That's the key difference. Shawn.
Thank you for this! I was having issues and my truck wouldn’t even engage 4x4. Works as it should now.
This way works I've put probably 6,000 miles on the vehicle this way with no issues but it doesn't fix the Hub actuators it just eliminates them basically
You could have a solenoid issue or a vacuum line issue or a hub actuator issue
Doing it this way removing the vacuum from it allows you to have four wheel drive again but realize everything is rotating now except for the transfer case so yes there's a little bit more wear but it's not that much
thank you for the info!! exactly what i needed.
This worked 100%. My ford got quiet right away.. I'll probably use as a temporary solution. Thank you
I had this happen to me, and it drove me nuts trying to figure it out. It only happened when I feathered the gas slowly in 2WD when going forward at any speed. As long as I feathered the gas, it sounded like something was clacking or not engaging. Simple enough fix that I didn't know at the time. This would have saved me some coin for sure.
This is an amazing video! I have 90k miles on my 15 and had to replace the whole bearing assembly on both side because of these vacuum actuated hubs. I live in the extreme cold and the vacuum isn't strong enough to fully disengage at times, so they eat each other. Very costly!
For the 2020 models there's an updated bulletin (20-2307, models 2006-2020) which recommends to do the same thing, but without the reprogramming. I have removed the same vacuum line and installed vacuum caps on both ends a few days ago, which permanently locks the IWE actuators and the grinding noise I was was hearing from time to time is gone now. So far I haven't experienced any problems with this permanent lock, even if I step on it. No noise, no vibrations, no nothing.
What vacuum caps did you use?
@@greghoffman3146 I bought 2 sets of different size vacuum caps from a local automotive store (Canadian Tire) and just tried which one fits most snug. The product is called "Dorman HELP! Vacuum Cap Assortment" with the following sizes 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8", (2) 3/16", (2) 1/4". I had to use one cap from each set, so the correct size would be one of these 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8"
they should have done this years ago, thank you for the tip!
As a first time ford owner I really appreciate all the updates you give in our trucks! Really nice to have someone looking out for us! Would you say there’s a problem with running the iwes and axles locked at all times?
Not really
Only thing I’ve seen with systems that spin the 4wd system all the time even when not engaged is that I’ve seen a lot of pinion seal leaks on dodges that have that same system. It’s kinda hard to beat the 97-03 f150 center axle disconnect system haven’t seen a quarter of the issues as the iwe system but when the iwe system is fully functional it’s the smartest way to do it.
My Jeep has the CAD. I never have problems with it.
*I loved the 4W Auto in my 2015 Platinum. I could use it on the street without binding like a traditional 4W HI would do*
The only thing, as with most transfer cases, is to be sure to roll a few feet so they engage before using heavy throttle. Else it or the front hub etc would poop out and make horrific sound when it did. 😮
Yeah but I don't care who you are 4x4 automatic should not be used on any type of Drive payment unless you're racing somebody
@@FordBossMe Wait, when you took off the vaccum line, and capped it, locks the hubs in but not the transfer case, but 4A locks the hubs and puts the transfer case in a differential mode to allow front and rear axle differential? Also instaed of removing the vaccum line, an you simple reverse the check valve?
I had the same problem about 4 months ago. When looking in PTS, he told me to put a plug in between a vacuum line where I cut it. I took a plastic clip that I got from our body shop. It made the hose look natural, but I thought it was a cheesy fix. The other mechanics kind of laughed at Ford's fix for this problem. But the customer was happy and did not come back for the same issue.
What kind of cap are y’all using?
It was perfect bro much appreciated
This is why I like my old clunky shift on the fly transfer case on my jeep with the old school shifter lever to change modes, not as efficient while the front diff and driveshaft spins all the time but has went 235k no problems but a few u joints going bad
I have a 2018 with standard 2h 4h 4l type. I replaced both wheel bearings and IWEs . Vacuum tested everything and it holds vacuum. I still get an intermittent chatter and don't.wamt to spend the money replacing all those parts again so I just capped the vacuum like the 4A style. Seems to work fine now.
That's how my system is done
3:44 I agree in the tiny fuel mileage drop,but why increased tire wear? There’s a differential in the front the tires are free to spin at different speeds .What I noticed on mine is increased driveline vibration at highway speeds from spinning the front driveline at all times. I knew right away when my iwes weren’t working because you felt it.I’d been unhappy with this repair due to the highway NVH being worse . Maybe a front driveshaft rebalance would have helped but the truck only had 2000 miles on it I doubt anything was worn. I traded it in 3 months ago now that was just one of the many minor issues it had . Felt like it was always something,meanwhile my 11 Superduty f350 6.2 is a tank that just keeps going….
I honestly do not understand how the "problem is solved." Ford should fix it right.
Hey Rich the vacuum line broke on my 2011 f 150 so the hubs were locked all the time . I noticed a 1 1/2 mpg decline in fuel mileage before I found the broken line. After I installed all new vacuum lines and the hubs were disengaged in 2 Hi the 1 1/2 mpg returned . Thanks for all your hard work !….
How did you know the vacuum line was broke? And how much was it to fix? Think I might have the same issue
@@brookshardy593 I noticed it when changing the oil , it was broken where it attaches to the front crossmember right in the middle . The reason it broke was because the plastic vacuum line got brittle from age ( it is a 2011 ) . The new vacuum lines were $ 53 dollars on E Bay and Amazon. I also changed the solenoid valve and one way valve ( the cost for both were $ 29 dollars on Amazon . Do you know how to check if the system is working properly ?
@@thomasdaum1927 gotcha. And I believe so I don’t have a lift to Jack up my truck to check if the cvs are engaged. But, today i did check the vacuum going into the solenoid and it has good vacuum in 2H and none in 4H.
Also took off the lines on the IWEs themselves and checked for vacuum which they did
@@brookshardy593 Sounds like you got it figured out . I Jack up one front wheel at a time and start the engine and see if the hub disengages . I check them every 5000 miles when I rotate the tires. Since I fixed the truck it is getting a solid 1 1/2 mpg more !
@@thomasdaum1927 good to know! And that’s the thing I’m still stumped as to why it’s still grinding. So maybe I do just need to see if it’s the Iwe. But the prior owner did have them replace because he had the same problem so not sure if the Iwe should fail 30k miles latwr
I just serviced my IWE's. They were pretty gummed up. Seems like something that should be serviced or replaced regularly. To me, this tsb is more of a bandaid.
Rich, would you recommend this fix for a f150 that has the fox 2.0 lift kit (complete strut). Mine was adjusted for 2.5 lift. With the lift, the angle for the cv shafts are more aggressive. I assume tracking down my IWE problem would be best in the long run to prevent all those additional parts from moving….
I'm not sure I like the idea of disabling the system that disengages them. This means the front drive train all the way back to the transfer case will be spinning all the time for no reason. One of the things I liked about the Fords having a disconnect at the hub is, in theory, it should be better all around to not have parts moving if you don't need to. Less wear and slightly better mpg.
Unfortunately this is what it is when you're driving a truck you're not driving it for fuel mileage and I hate to be that way but this is the best solution so far
@@FordBossMe What if people stop using 4A on dry pavement (like they should anyway)
@@FordBossMe I get it, it does make sense why ford is recommending this solution. It is still the best option for what it is, even if I don't like it.
Too bad there isn't a way to manually permanently lock the hubs out of engagement. (where you could manually re-engage them when you want 4x4). But it defaults to engaged when everything is disconnected.
dobrze mowisz. nie tylko wiecej pali i zuzywa opony, ale lozyska przedniege dyferencjalu, krzyzaki przedniego walu sa caly czas obciazone i to w druga strone, bo napedzaja je kola a nie skrzynia rozdzialcza. zalaczenie na stale przednich kol to slaby pomysl dla zywotnosci przeniej lini napedowej.
you say it right. not only does it burn more fuel and wear out the tires, but the front differential bearings and the front shaft cross-pieces are constantly loaded in the other direction, because they are driven by the wheels and not the transfer case. permanently engaging the front wheels is a bad idea for the life of the front drive line.
Manual four wheel drive shift on the floor never let me down. I own 3 fords 1979 f150 , 2005 F250, & 2012 F450 all with maunal four wheel drive shift and never had a problem.
Merci beaucoup pour le conseil😊
Premature cv axel wear ....great fix
Thank you, I wish I found this last year before hav8ng both IWEs replaced only for them to fail again. And who cares if the front diff is moving? The rear diff always spins already!
Great stuff
Manuel locking hubs is the preferred fix
I think my 2008 Ranger 4x4 front axle shafts always spin. Theres no hubs to lock/unlock. Just the transfer case motor.
To:Ford Boss Me
As one of your more than 108K subscribers and owner of a 2004 Expedition 4X4 I wanna thank you for all the videos you load up in this RUclips channel.
While I watched this video I think of the same humming problem I'm having with my Expedition.
I wanna change out both IWE's but while doing some research I discovered that Dorman makes a 600-105 vacuum delete IWE kit.
So before I proceed with replacing both IWE's, can you please give us, your viewers, your honest opinion on which would be the better, the OEM IWE or the Dorman 600-105 vacuum delete kit?
Please reply soon.
Thanks again.
Does this cause excess wear and tear on the bearings and axle? Or, was the vacuum system something Ford did just to eek out some additional fuel mileage?
This is a great video as always! I have a 19' Lariat with the 4a option.Is it ok to leave it in this mode at all times? So many differing opinions on that.
You know I don't like when people leave it in four automatic all the time it just doesn't make any sense to me if it is in two wheel drive it's in two wheel drive if it's in four wheel drive it's in four wheel drive the only time that you would put it in 4x4 automatic as if it was a rainy slippery day and you're not sure if you would need it or not
That is what I did to my 2007 f150 and 2012 3.5 Ecoboost.
The TSB says for non raptor models only, could you explain why this is the case please?
Hey Rich! I have a 2019 XLT without 4A I have the clunking of the IWE. Should I have a reprogram of the TCCM or would my issue be something else?
What about 2012. What might be different. What about manual hubs.
Now I understand why it takes a certain amount of time for the 4HI to engage.
when was this issued? I had my hubs replaced a year ago and they didn't removed that vacuum line. now having the same roaring issue again
Thankyou so much sir❤️❤️❤️
What did you use to plug vacuum holes?
Thank you. 😇
Thank you!!!!!!
Is this applicable to F-150s that don’t have 4A, shift on the fly vs torque on demand (only have 2H, 4H and 4L options)?
@Ford Boss Me Does the TSB state except Raptor? If so, do you know why?
I prefer the full-time AWD system Ford used on the 2000 Ford Explorer. Never let me down in 22 years. New or old, a big factor in long term viability of truck drivetrains is doing all of the regular driveline fluid changes.
Thanks for the update. My 2018 F150 5.0 has had a whining sound ever since I had the TSB for rattle on deceleration and TSB for oil consumption. TSB's helped those problem's but then I started getting new whining sound. Any suggestions? Thanks
Honestly I have no idea typically that's from the front transmission pump but I don't know that that's the case if I'm not looking at the vehicle
What are your thoughts on the dorman IWE deletes?
Dang it I just had my two IWEs and Hubs replaced. It could have been a simple fi.
I just took my check valve and reversed it, been good ever since, even in 4A (2018 Platinum)
Still good? Might do this.
Also, if you have 4a and you do this, do you need a reprogram? Or just flip it and good?
@MrHossola Did you have to reprogram?
I'm so lucky, i turn the button in my f150, 2015, and it works everytime
This absolutely sucks, I noticed you drove it around in the parking lot. Get on the road and you will notice a lot more front end noise than you would if the original states in place. You would feel this way if you paid 60K for a truck plus premium warranty and they disconnected a system that’s been around for years just because they didn’t want to fix the actual problem.
I’ve had mine unplugged for a while. Issues with mine since 70k miles 🤦🏻♂️
I put the Dorman hub illuminators on my F150 best thing for the four-wheel-drive it works great fuel economy did not change at all I did to my sons F150 and my friends F150 for under $100 worth it
I mean theoretically isn't this really the same thing
Yes but my was making noise all the tie and ford Dealer told me that was normal which I know it wasn’t because we have a lot of F150 four-wheel-drive at work
@@FordBossMe 100% yer just using the iwe's already in place vs aftermarket stuff
Thank you
What does the acronym IWE stand for? Thank you.
Love the channel. I have a2017 lariat fx4. Had the intermittent hub grinding. I disconnected the solenoid plug. Fixed. Any difference between your fix with removing the vacuum line and what I did?
You know I'm not really sure exactly how the system looks at it to the T I think the reason they have you remove the vacuum line is because you know at that point it's 100% blocked off as to where the solenoid could get stuck in a specific position that was causing the chattering anyway
@@FordBossMe thanks for the reply. I'll disconnect the vacuum line and reconnect the solenoid.
I guess i will be carrying a couple vacuum caps in the future.
Hey man love the content. Been having what I believe is an IWE issue. Grinding noise coming from what I think is the front passenger side. Mostly happens when decelerating and make a right turn at low speeds. Replaced the check valve and that didn’t help. I went on a drive and could hear what I believe was air escaping on the passenger side. Leads me to believe I mIght have a leak in the vacuum system? Any ideas or experience with this?
Why don't you keep the selector lever in two-wheel drive and unplug the vacuum solenoid going to the vacuum lines and go drive it so what's going to happen is you're going to have the iwe locked in the CV axles are going to turn the front differential is going to turn and the front drive shaft is going to turn but the transfer case is still going to be in two-wheel drive and if the sound goes away you know you have a vacuum Source problem so it would be one of the lines that you have to check
Basically what I want you to do is use the video that you literally just watched to use a little common sense and I'm not saying you don't have it just use a little common sense use the message and the method that I put out in this video and the many many many other full diagnostic videos on the entire system to diagnose this I've literally given you the information and I've got like four videos in the library all talking about the iwes and the four wheel drive system where anybody literally anybody should be able to diagnose it without one single question
@@FordBossMe Thank you for the info I appreciate it I’ll go try that!
And just to be sure I disconnect the right one. I see the power connector to the solenoid and then two connectors on the bottom of the solenoid. Which one is it?
what about 2020 model, is any changes?
Will this hurt the front differential?
The Ford dealer called me last week to reprogram the transmission on my 2019 F350, dually, crew cab, 4x4. They sent a service van and two techs to my house and the techs spent about 35 minutes with multiple restarts of the vehicle as part of the programming. Have no idea what the TSB was for, but I thought it was nice they came to my house instead of having me bring it to the dealer.
Some dealerships are large enough to do that but most of them are not
@@FordBossMe That's an interesting comment. The dealer is the smallest of the four Ford dealers in the area and is located in a town of about 15,000. The techs showed up in the largest Ford Transit van (dually rear tires) and the interior cargo area of the van was outfitted with toolboxes, parts storage, etc.
Confused but I'm just an amateur consumer but faithful listener. Wasn't there a discussion a few weeks ago concerning the 4A setting and that it was not a good idea to use it all the time? Isn't that the same thing that the bulletin fix does?
No. This engages the CV axles, not the clutch inside the transfer case.
The transfer case is not engaged so no power is going to the front axles. It's just free spinning.
Additionally, capping the lines on 4A only equipped vehicles seems to have far less MPG impact - suspicion is that as the 4A tcase still rotates the front driveshaft in 2H due to fluid wash, so that front driveline assembly isn't as hard for the now engaged front axles to turn due to that indirect assistance from the tcase.
Different systems someone and in 4A it tries to engage the four-wheel drive when it detects wheel slippage or one turning faster than the other when you're in two wheel drive and you have the Hub actuators locked out you're not trying to engage the four wheel drive like you would be in 4a in a bronco
is this the same case with 2018 raptors?
will this work on my 2008? my setup looks a little different. 5.4 litre
What size of cap do i need? Can i buy it at auto zone?
I need some help. I have a 2018 F150, and I recently replaced the driver side CV axle. After doing so I started hearing a grinding noise. I thought it was the wheel bearing, so I replaced the driver and passenger side. I still heard the noise. So now you're probably thinking it's the IWE. Well so was I, so I replaced the IWE check valve, and still heard the noise. I then replaced the solenoid and still heard the noise. I went and checked the IWE at the wheel bearing and when I applied vacuum the IWE moved in on both sides. I then checked the vacuum line to make sure there was no leak. Did not find any leaks. I noticed the noise comes on about half a mile after I left the area. Whether it's from home or work. The noise would sound around 25 MPH and start off with a low grinding sound. With higher speeds the noise would become faster and higher in pitch. It would stop around 55 MPH. I also noticed when I applied vacuum that the driver side axle would move. Shouldn't it not move? When vacuum is applied that would show that it's in 2-wheel drive, correct? Do you have any opinion on my situation?
Okay these are very finicky systems and the basic programming for this is after you leave the house it stays on for about a half a mile and then it completely goes into two wheel drive after you leave also installing those iwes correctly is very critical checking to make sure there's no vacuum leakage in the lines everything is very critical so outside of what you did I can't tell you what's wrong because you did everything that I would have thought but I think that maybe you need to watch my other videos on this iwe situation as well you have not watched them all I can tell you that
I wish I could eliminate the shuddering from my AWD '08 Cadillac CTS when turning tight especially in reverse. The whole car shakes like crazy.
there is a tsb on that look it up
Have been buying ford since to 2011 and since then done this if I hear some noise going on
What size are these Rubber Caps needed for the mod ?
Could this be done to a 2012 model
Had the exact same issue on my 2018 F150.
Replace the solenoid and check valve assembly. It takes about 3 minutes and cost $60.00 from ford. Or, you can do what the video states and your gas mileage will suffer.
I have a 2017 F150 Lariat with 73,000 miles and my front diff already took a crap and it’s being replaced tomorrow. Of course Ford tells me there’s nothing they can do due to me being out of warranty so the $3800 will come out of my pocket at a local mechanic 🤦🏼♂️
Found some forum threads online of many people having this issue with F150s that have the 4A settings and front diffs going out. Have you heard of this?
Also, do you think once I get my truck back from having new front diff installed that I should go ahead and cap this vacuum line as well? I’m just worried about the potential extra wear on the front end that I’m having replaced already. Thanks a lot
My 2018 Platinum (4A) started moaning/groaning when slowing down at low speeds (actually only started to notice it when the weather got cooler), took it in and they rebuilt the front diff. Like how's an 8.8" diff supposed to wear out when it's barely ever turning (my truck barely ever sees 4WD). Here I am 6k later and it's gotten cool again and now I'm hearing it, again. Wonder if it's actually just IWE issues and causing transfer case drag when slowing down with the 4 auto (clutch based) transfer case...
Junk yard units are $500. Its just nuts and bolts and can be done on a Saturday.
I had a low pitch hum/grind coming from under my feet in a 2017 f150 lariat. Had to have the entire front diff rebuilt at 30k miles under warranty. Im at 50k with my warranty up and the issue is back. Only used 4x4 once to get up my driveway in the snow, but the lariat 4x4 with 4a apparently is slightly engaged even in 2wd it is turning the front drive shaft.
Should I do this to my 2017?
That's up to you it'll work either way
Will this work on non 4a models?
Love all the videos but why is it always about my truck, which hasn't had any issues. Just one more thing to listen for.
I have a 2019 F150 with the same 4A system and I’ve been hearing a humming/light vibration present at all speeds but more prevalent at low speeds. Gets much more noticeable at low speeds. Seems to almost disappear when In 4wd. Do you have any ideas on what could cause this? Some say that the differential goes bad prematurely on some of the vehicles equipped with 4A. Do you have any personal experience with that?
Could be wheel bearing or iwe or front differential
So your axles and front differential are going to be spinning all the time correct? I was wondering what are your thoughts about the reliability of old versus new versions?
I don't really have any thoughts on Old versus new to be honest with you I just fix it
@@FordBossMe gotcha. No worries Not in the market for anything new anyhow. I'm a luddite so I like my old manual stuff.
I have a 15' platinum that has been nothing but trouble with the IWE. specifically the front drivers wheel. I only had the grinding noise when in 4a and 4h. Ive had the front hub replaced twice and they were shot each time. Will this fix that issue also?? I was going to convert it to manual before this winter but I would like to keep it electric.
Try it out and see all that's all you can do
Hey man, thanks for the video. I have a 2015 that has the 4a. Are you saying I can remove this vacuum line without doing any reprogramming? Sounds like a fantastic easy fix if so, my IWE have been humming for a while at low speed.
If you remove a line you got to put a cap on where you remove it
@@FordBossMeunderstood. So no reprograming necessary?
You can use that e locker switch anytime it’s in 4H? I was told only when driving straight in 4L or stuck to lock it out.
Yeah I would only use the e-locker in 4L and driving straight
Instead of removing the vacuum line and capping you can simply leave it alone and unplug your vacuum solenoid. that will do the same thing
Will this take care of iwe grinding until the truck warms up? Also will this cause more parts to fail down the road? I have a
17 xlt with non auto 4x4.
There's a TSB out on the grinding for 17 to 20 model F150s and 19 and 20 already have the new programming but 17 and 18 don't and you have to reprogram the transfer case control module to leave it's not good enough I love you is engaged for the first half mile of driving before they release and it's supposed to take care of the noise
Will work on 2019 f150 xlt 5.0 4x4
Of course it will
But since the hubs are locked it’s still gonna spin the front differential and spider gears, there just won’t be any engine power applied to it when in 2H?
Right
Would this same concept apply to a 2014 F150 that has the same 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L setup? I always hear a slight hum in the front of the truck in the winter when decelerating below 30MPH. I assume I am losing vacuum ? Thanks for the video
I've got this same problem too. Replaced the solenoid and check valve and still have the issue. Checked iwes and under hood for vacuum and they all held fine. Next up is to try this.
Same here on a 2013
Hey @tlr8611, do you have any follow up? I just started experiencing this as well, your description is the closest thing to what I have. It's not a grinding for me, its a groaning or humming, almost like the tires are rubbing but they clearly are not. In the cold, between 25-5 mph, and for me its accelerating and decelerating. I also replaced both the check valve and the solenoid with no improvement.
My vacuum line for my 2015 goes from the check valve to a T fitting. Is that where I would disconnect and cap?
Just put a little cap on the line that goes down to the iwes pull it off the solenoid and put a little cap right there we don't have to overthink this man
I’ve been running 4A to avoid that scraping sound. So if I follow these steps I can run 2H ? (2015 F150 Platinum)
Try it you're not going to hurt anything
What about the 2014 and earlier trucks? Can I remove that same vacuum hose and cap it on that truck?
Should be able to yes
So can you still use the 4 auto or you have to go old school and from 2 wheel to 4 wheel?
You can still use 4a auto it still functions the same way
Are you still able to shift into 4hi on the fly if you do the tsb or cap the lines off?
Yes
I've had the same issue, but I just disconnected the solenoid. My hubs are locked in all the time. It will go into 4wd just fine when I flip the dash switch. What's the difference between the hose removal and unplugging the solenoid
Nothing essentially as long as no codes are set and the solenoid doesn't stick open
My son has a 2015 f-150 lariat, He has a extremely load clunk , bang if in 4x4 and you put the beans to it dirt or pavement 4A 0r 4H sounds like its coming from the drivers side. we have replaced the wheel bearings, IWE'S and check valve that ford recommends. He has a leveling kit that raises the front 1" stock rims a little bigger tire. we have removed the front diff cover to look for chunks of gears but none. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did you ever figure it out cause I have the same issue
What if I do this and my front cv axles still don't engage? Jacked truck up and cannot get the front cv to engage in any configuration I've tried.
Then your iwe are shot
New owner with a 2018 F-150 Lariat. I have the binding/rubbing going on in front left wheel. I need to do this fix but I need to know what serves as a "cap" for the vacuum lines. Is there something I can order, or do I need to go to the dealership?
Go on Amazon and or Google automotive vacuum caps
@@FordBossMe Simple answer to a simple question 😁 Thanks for replying. I really appreciate it.