My bad joy just started doing this, I changed plugs, air filter, fuel filter, getting ready to change the coils and wires and came across this vid. THANKS! Battery fixed the problem!
Thank goodness for people like you who share their experiences. I had the same problem happen on my $6000.00 mower. After watching your video, I went and purchased a new battery for $40.00, installed it and the mower cranked right up. Engaged the PTO and was out cutting my lawn again. Problem solved. Thank you Bob.
You saved me time and money! THANK YOU! It might not always be the fix, but it was for me! F... all the haters who commented before me! If you can't say something nice...........!
Great diagnosis, thanks for sharing! If a battery won't take a full charge & sit between 12 & 13V indefinitely, it's probably smoked. If even a single cell inside is damaged, the battery will never perform properly. Its resting voltage & cranking amperage will be severely diminished.
After hours of chasing safety circuits I checked out your video and turns out all I needed was a new battery. I would have never guessed. Thanks for your video!
Great video sir!! Just bought used mower cause my tractor has been in repair shop for 3 half weeks i just can't push mow my yard anymore. With engine running kick the blades on it dies immediately I'm gonna go get new battery tomorrow after I clean everything. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
I just wanna thank you so much sir. You just saved me money time and brought my happiness back or mowing my lawn. God bless you for your knowledge and for sharing it.
Thank you for posting this!!!!! I was about to sell my mower because I don’t do problems. LOL. I will go get a battery today because I know the one in there is bad. I have to jump it every time to crank after it has been sitting up last year.
Wow you just saved me a lot of money!!!i I installed a steering bushing,and two days later I went to mow,blades would not engage,I watched 10 videos..yours was the last and bingo!!! That’s what my problem was..I would have never thought that’s what it was..THANKS SOO MUCH!!!
Apparently it's because of the electric clutch that engages the mowing deck. It uses more current than the alternator can supply if the battery is weak. The alternator alone cannot supply the momentary demand of the clutch coil. That's my guess anyway.
The reason your motor is not wanting rotate sometimes is because you need to adjust your valves. If you don't it will worsen later in the future and will burn up your starter the more it tries to ware itself out trying to rotate slowly!
Thanks for sharing this. You were very clear and eloquent in your step by step description. These new style cheap batteries that they sell now cause a lot of problems. I'm sure the makers of a lot of other ancillary components sell a lot of unneeded stuff before people finally figure out it was the cheap ass battery that the seller only guarantees for 1 month, maybe 3 months and the mfr. maybe a year...Your amp meter is worth the cost to read the voltage before replacing starters, regulators, condensors...what have you.
Yeah, it takes a good amount of current to keep the PTO clutch plates electro/magnetically engaged, and that means it's often more than just what your particular alternator is generating, so a sound battery is essential with a PTO clutch. I mean, I believe any PTO clutch requires at least a 9 amp alternator, but many mowers have alternators that are much higher in amperage, so they may be able to better maintain a weak battery being charged while the PTO is simultaneously engaged, than on a unit with only a 9 amp alternator and a weak battery, I'm guessing.
But this would only disengage the blades, right? Not cause the engine to stall/sputter out. Right? I'm having this very problem now with a Cub Cadet that runs just fine until I pull the PTO and engage the blades. Then the *engine* starts to sputter out. Grrrrr. '
@@robertzeurunkl8401 Well, my zero-turn still has a manual idler engagement deck, i.e., no electronic PTO, and I repowered it with a V-Twin motor that was about half price since it only had a 3 amp alternator, which wasn't a problem since there is no electronic clutch PTO. So, I'll suggest that you just put a new battery in that baby, and then let us all know back if it solved your problem. The season is starting!
If you have a mower with a mechanical blade engagement - it could be killing the mower when engaged if the safety switch is not being pressed in all the way - if that switch doesn't get pressed in all the way, the engine will die. You will flood the crank case if it dies this way because it grounds the engine and kills the spark - well it still spins until it stops and is sucking fuel into the crank case - remove the spark plug (s) and spin the engine by hand before trying to start it again or you will break all kinds of internals and blow your engine. - mechanical linkage will sometimes have a bracket with a spring in the middle - and a threaded rod that goes through it - [________]
Isn't it always like that, we think its something complicated and mysterious, and it usually turns out to be something simple and easily achievable. Thanks for sharing your experience Rob, and keeping it simple. By the way you have a very pleasant audio voice, have you thought of a second career?
Mine does the same but it's a 2yr old ExMark 52". It started this issue when I installed some new gator blades. The belt is pretty hard to pull by hand. Noticed the battery only has 9vlts. I have to jump it off to start it but if I keep my jump starter on it? The PTO Engages! Guess I need a new battery too
Thanks the stalling out video thank you and god Bless you I think that’s my problem after it stops raining I’m going to put a new battery in it wish Me luck
If it running normally and charging normally why would the battery have any affect on the clutch? Mine was running fine. I was cutting and it just stalled and died. It starts and runs without issue. Although I left the key on and had to charge it. I took the clutch out and it seems to be binding up so I replaced it $135 later it still stalls the engine. I hate to throw money at it, but I guess a battery isn’t the end of the world. It dies the same thing when I take weight off the seat or back up with out pressing the back up button. I wonder if one of the many safety switched is to blame. I think that might be the issue because I started it without sitting in the seat. Then later it wouldn’t start or run that way.
Mine ran okay until I engaged the mowing deck. My guess is that the battery was weak. The clutch coil uses a lot of electricity and the alternator apparently doesn't have the umph to run the engine and clutch coil AND charge a weak battery all at the same time. All I know for sure is that replacing the battery fixed my problem, as weird as it sounds! Good luck, my friend!
because while the engine is running the alternator has to charge the battery and power the pto, if the battery is weak it will take all the power from the alternator and the pto will starve and it could burn up the alternator. if it was a manual blade engagement it wouldnt hurt it, never jump start a mower that has an electric pto.
I sure hope this is my problem, its a troybilt zero turn rtz it dies sometimes when I release the brake but the battery light flashes alot I have noticed when it is engaged.. It also sometimes is very slow to climb a hill, reckon that could be the battery to.. well I'm gonna get one its the cheapest thing to start with, I sure hope its not the PTO clutch.. thanks for the video..my battery is about 2 yrs old too
I was just running out of options. I had checked everything else. The clutch solenoid was apparently pulling down the voltage enough, on an already weak battery, that the generator/alternator just couldn't keep up. That was the problem with mine anyway!
Maaan my zero turn battery died a few years lol it's old and all I keep doing is charging it lol. It's been slower and wants to turn off when PTO is engaged to mow. I bet that's the issue. I need a new battery anyways . Thanks
I am having this problem now (Cub Cadet), but I never would have suspected the battery. I know it's been a sluggish starter, and needed a new battery, but I figured that once it was actually running, the generator would be providing the voltage it needs, not the battery. And what IS the connection to the battery anyway? What does the battery DO that the engine would care if the blades were engaged or not?
The clutch solenoid to engage the blades is electric. My battery was so weak that the generator/alternator was putting out all it could to run the engine and the extra drain on the electrical system was more than it could take. The old style lawn movers only needed the magneto to make a spark and the blades ran anytime the engine was running. The newer models have a control circuit for the spark and the clutch to engage the blades. When the battery got too weak, it couldn't run the electrical controls, even with the motor running.
I have a Kohler in a hustler. It starts fine, but once it's hot, if I disengage the pto for whatever reason, and then try to engage it again, it chokes down, and cuts off. It'll crank, but not turn over. Any idea?
Yes I Husqvarna is actually have an electric PTO sometimes if they get hot they will disengage you may need a new one there is a video I seen on how to test them pretty easy
I bought a brand new battery for my cub cadet it’s only been on for 2 days. my tires came in yesterday, and after I got her all set up I take her out engage the pto and it dies and almost kills my battery
I may be having same issue with an Exmark Turf Tracer i recently restored. Brand new battery. Engine runs and sounds perfect but when I engage the PTO she bogs down a lot but at first the engine would slowly recover to operating rpm but even then the motor didnt sound right until i switched off the PTO. Last few times i tried she'd bog and die. probably because the batter is a little weak. I was thinking that maybe the ignition coils were weak but then started thinking the PTO might be engaging to quickly bogging the motor (not sure if thats a thing or not). But I think you might have the answer for me. I seen one of your comments below about a weak battery not being enough to run the ignition, the pto and charge the battery so the ignition suffers with a weak spark. I'll let you know what i find. Thank you for your video :-)
Troubleshooting this: Seat safety switch; Brake safety switch; and now low voltage... all each kill the engine. I've shorted the safety switches (for diagnostics) and now check my voltages - 12.8v parked, and 14.6v running. The blade switched on kills the engine, same as releasing the brake (when safety switch installed). Now what?!?
Well, A forth problem could be a short in either of the two safety switch circuits. I'm betting that's what happened when I rolled my tractor onto its side to install the new clutch [which should have been easy to do without rolling it, but I had trouble due to a wrong part].
Well, After checking conductivity through all the safety switch wires (all good), I discovered my problem. The 6201 PTO switch had failed due to the heavy current draw when the clutch melted down. Add that to the list of causes of engine stopping when the brake is released or the PTO switch engaged.
It acted the same way it would if you pulled the choke out after it was running and up to speed and the engine sputters and stops. I've just always called it "choking down"
IMO Walmart batteries are now garbage, they used to be decent, but have gone downhill in the past few years. I always tape my receipt to the side of the battery, in a zip-lock bag, because you WILL need to make use of their warranty.
I get a new top of the line battery from walmart every year for free - take them in at night when the shop section of walmart is closed - tell customer service you want to exchange the battery (if within warranty!) they wont even test it - but if you do it during the day - and they test it and it's not totally a dead battery - they will not exchange it - seen it done in a youtube video with a car battery - so i do it and it works - do it with my car - truck - and mower batteries.
Your mower is a Husqvarna build. I had the same issue, but my fix was moving the fuel line away from the cylinder head. It was actually mounted to it, causing vaporlock. It would get just enough gas to run the motor, but if you engage the clutch to the mower, the motor would die.
@Rob Douthit I posted this in a comment but it my help others if you state that your video is for an ELECTRIC PTO - here's the fix for a MANUAL DECK ENGAGEMENT mower - the non - switch - but Push the lever or pull it to engage and disengage the deck! It's a lot mower to go through to check! Where I talk about gas in the crank case though sir, that goes for both electric and mechanical (manual) deck engagement systems! If you have a mower with a mechanical blade engagement - it could be killing the mower when engaged if the safety switch is not being pressed in all the way - if that switch doesn't get pressed in all the way, the engine will die. You will flood the crank case if it dies this way because it grounds the engine and kills the spark - well it still spins until it stops and is sucking fuel into the crank case - remove the spark plug (s) and spin the engine by hand before trying to start it again or you will break all kinds of internals and blow your engine. - mechanical linkage will sometimes have a bracket with a spring in the middle - and a threaded rod that goes through it - [________]
I think my battery was so weak that it barely had enough omf to crank it. The clutch apparently pulled enough extra juice out of an already weak battery that it bogged the whole system down.
@@SlayerHawkX Yes, it worked. I went online and searched for a lawn mower repair service and found one that had excellent reviews. It turned out that there was a dog leash wrapped around the blade. I don’t have dogs...
I have new battery in my John Deere La100 riding lawnmower. Everstart, 230cold cranking amps. However you can cut grass for about 10mins. Motor wants to shutdown. Quickly disengage and it runs great. I need some advice, Please!!!!
I have a Similar problem, can mow for 20 min, then starts to die but if i disengage blades engine resumes running smoothly. let me know if u find a fix!
WEAK BATTERY..... LOW POWER..... SIMPLE.... ALWAYS BATH YOUR LAWN MOWER BEFORE TAKING IT TO THE MECHANIC.... ITS CALL......RESPECT..... THEY SEE IT. THEY ADKNOWLEDGE... THEY DO THE EXTRAS WITH OUT CHARGE.....
My bad joy just started doing this, I changed plugs, air filter, fuel filter, getting ready to change the coils and wires and came across this vid. THANKS! Battery fixed the problem!
Thank goodness for people like you who share their experiences. I had the same problem happen on my $6000.00 mower. After watching your video, I went and purchased a new battery for $40.00, installed it and the mower cranked right up. Engaged the PTO and was out cutting my lawn again. Problem solved. Thank you Bob.
I'm glad to hear that worked for you! Thank you for letting me know!
Sounds like a radio host 🙌 your the man sir thank you much
I want to thank you, after trying many things. I went and bought a new battery today ,,problem solved I appreciate you posting this.
I'm glad it fixed your problem. It definitely fixed mine!
Thank you brother my goodness that's it🎉🎉🎉
You saved me time and money! THANK YOU! It might not always be the fix, but it was for me! F... all the haters who commented before me! If you can't say something nice...........!
Great diagnosis, thanks for sharing! If a battery won't take a full charge & sit between 12 & 13V indefinitely, it's probably smoked. If even a single cell inside is damaged, the battery will never perform properly. Its resting voltage & cranking amperage will be severely diminished.
After hours of chasing safety circuits I checked out your video and turns out all I needed was a new battery. I would have never guessed. Thanks for your video!
I'm glad it worked for you!
Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it. I was at my wits end.
I truly hope this is my issue. I've tried everything in the book. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this video.
Thanks Rob - it actually worked! It seemed so simple I thought there was no way - THANK YOU!
I'm glad it worked for you! I wouldn't have believed it either, but that's what happened to mine! Nice job!
Great video sir!! Just bought used mower cause my tractor has been in repair shop for 3 half weeks i just can't push mow my yard anymore. With engine running kick the blades on it dies immediately I'm gonna go get new battery tomorrow after I clean everything. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
I just wanna thank you so much sir. You just saved me money time and brought my happiness back or mowing my lawn. God bless you for your knowledge and for sharing it.
Thank you for posting this!!!!! I was about to sell my mower because I don’t do problems. LOL. I will go get a battery today because I know the one in there is bad. I have to jump it every time to crank after it has been sitting up last year.
You saved me a lot of work and tears. Thank you my man.
Wow you just saved me a lot of money!!!i I installed a steering bushing,and two days later I went to mow,blades would not engage,I watched 10 videos..yours was the last and bingo!!! That’s what my problem was..I would have never thought that’s what it was..THANKS SOO MUCH!!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks mate that what was happening with ours.
You just saved me probably 3 hours in troubleshooting. Thanks for sharing , really great tip!
Hey thanks for the tip , I was the battery.
I'm glad it helped you get it working again!
Thanks a bunch, didn't think the battery would do that. I can mow my lawn again!!!! THANK YOU-THANK YOU- THANK YOU!!!
I'm glad it helped!
But why? Why does the battery have anything to do with this behavior?
Apparently it's because of the electric clutch that engages the mowing deck. It uses more current than the alternator can supply if the battery is weak. The alternator alone cannot supply the momentary demand of the clutch coil. That's my guess anyway.
The reason your motor is not wanting rotate sometimes is because you need to adjust your valves. If you don't it will worsen later in the future and will burn up your starter the more it tries to ware itself out trying to rotate slowly!
Thanks for sharing this. You were very clear and eloquent in your step by step description. These new style cheap batteries that they sell now cause a lot of problems. I'm sure the makers of a lot of other ancillary components sell a lot of unneeded stuff before people finally figure out it was the cheap ass battery that the seller only guarantees for 1 month, maybe 3 months and the mfr. maybe a year...Your amp meter is worth the cost to read the voltage before replacing starters, regulators, condensors...what have you.
Thank you so much ! I've been having the same issue and it was because of the cold cramp amp . 🎉
Yeah, it takes a good amount of current to keep the PTO clutch plates electro/magnetically engaged, and that means it's often more than just what your particular alternator is generating, so a sound battery is essential with a PTO clutch. I mean, I believe any PTO clutch requires at least a 9 amp alternator, but many mowers have alternators that are much higher in amperage, so they may be able to better maintain a weak battery being charged while the PTO is simultaneously engaged, than on a unit with only a 9 amp alternator and a weak battery, I'm guessing.
But this would only disengage the blades, right? Not cause the engine to stall/sputter out. Right? I'm having this very problem now with a Cub Cadet that runs just fine until I pull the PTO and engage the blades. Then the *engine* starts to sputter out. Grrrrr.
'
@@robertzeurunkl8401 Well, my zero-turn still has a manual idler engagement deck, i.e., no electronic PTO, and I repowered it with a V-Twin motor that was about half price since it only had a 3 amp alternator, which wasn't a problem since there is no electronic clutch PTO. So, I'll suggest that you just put a new battery in that baby, and then let us all know back if it solved your problem. The season is starting!
If you have a mower with a mechanical blade engagement - it could be killing the mower when engaged if the safety switch is not being pressed in all the way - if that switch doesn't get pressed in all the way, the engine will die. You will flood the crank case if it dies this way because it grounds the engine and kills the spark - well it still spins until it stops and is sucking fuel into the crank case - remove the spark plug (s) and spin the engine by hand before trying to start it again or you will break all kinds of internals and blow your engine. - mechanical linkage will sometimes have a bracket with a spring in the middle - and a threaded rod that goes through it - [________]
Thanks Rob - I have the same mower and the same problem. Going to buy a new battery!
Isn't it always like that, we think its something complicated and mysterious, and it usually turns out to be something simple and easily achievable. Thanks for sharing your experience Rob, and keeping it simple. By the way you have a very pleasant audio voice, have you thought of a second career?
Thank you.
Excellent explanation! Thanks for the great information.
Nicely done
That's what I was thinking about my craftsman lt 5000 it does the exact same thing.thanks I'll check it out.
Mine starts fine and runs great but engage that switch and off she gos
Mine has great voltage while running, 14.5 DC however when blades are engaged only will run for about 15 minutes
Thanks, Rob.
Mine does the same but it's a 2yr old ExMark 52". It started this issue when I installed some new gator blades. The belt is pretty hard to pull by hand. Noticed the battery only has 9vlts. I have to jump it off to start it but if I keep my jump starter on it? The PTO Engages! Guess I need a new battery too
Thanks the stalling out video thank you and god
Bless you I think that’s my problem after it stops raining I’m going to put a new battery in it wish
Me luck
If it running normally and charging normally why would the battery have any affect on the clutch? Mine was running fine. I was cutting and it just stalled and died. It starts and runs without issue. Although I left the key on and had to charge it. I took the clutch out and it seems to be binding up so I replaced it $135 later it still stalls the engine. I hate to throw money at it, but I guess a battery isn’t the end of the world. It dies the same thing when I take weight off the seat or back up with out pressing the back up button. I wonder if one of the many safety switched is to blame. I think that might be the issue because I started it without sitting in the seat. Then later it wouldn’t start or run that way.
Mine ran okay until I engaged the mowing deck. My guess is that the battery was weak. The clutch coil uses a lot of electricity and the alternator apparently doesn't have the umph to run the engine and clutch coil AND charge a weak battery all at the same time. All I know for sure is that replacing the battery fixed my problem, as weird as it sounds! Good luck, my friend!
Why would battery power affect the blade engagement. I can understand possibly safety circuit switches having an affect.
because while the engine is running the alternator has to charge the battery and power the pto, if the battery is weak it will take all the power from the alternator and the pto will starve and it could burn up the alternator. if it was a manual blade engagement it wouldnt hurt it, never jump start a mower that has an electric pto.
I was wondering the same thing. And here, Tom's answer explains it. Two for one! ;-)
People like you are great citizens .
I sure hope this is my problem, its a troybilt zero turn rtz it dies sometimes when I release the brake but the battery light flashes alot I have noticed when it is engaged.. It also sometimes is very slow to climb a hill, reckon that could be the battery to.. well I'm gonna get one its the cheapest thing to start with, I sure hope its not the PTO clutch.. thanks for the video..my battery is about 2 yrs old too
Never thought it could be the battery but will try that. John Deere LX176
A new battery changed nothing.
Thank you for this video, I have a Troy-Bilt pony and after a while it wants to bog down so I'm wondering if it's the battery as well.
I was just running out of options. I had checked everything else. The clutch solenoid was apparently pulling down the voltage enough, on an already weak battery, that the generator/alternator just couldn't keep up. That was the problem with mine anyway!
Have you changed the drive belt yet
Interesting learn thank you
Thanks my husqvarna starting to do this and i have an extra battery already
You may want to check the voltage with the PTO engaged and at full throttle.
Thanks for the video Rob
Maaan my zero turn battery died a few years lol it's old and all I keep doing is charging it lol. It's been slower and wants to turn off when PTO is engaged to mow. I bet that's the issue. I need a new battery anyways . Thanks
Thanks for this
I am having this problem now (Cub Cadet), but I never would have suspected the battery. I know it's been a sluggish starter, and needed a new battery, but I figured that once it was actually running, the generator would be providing the voltage it needs, not the battery. And what IS the connection to the battery anyway? What does the battery DO that the engine would care if the blades were engaged or not?
The clutch solenoid to engage the blades is electric. My battery was so weak that the generator/alternator was putting out all it could to run the engine and the extra drain on the electrical system was more than it could take. The old style lawn movers only needed the magneto to make a spark and the blades ran anytime the engine was running. The newer models have a control circuit for the spark and the clutch to engage the blades. When the battery got too weak, it couldn't run the electrical controls, even with the motor running.
what if mower bogs down or dies while engaging pto with engine cold, but doesnt die or bog with engine hot
I have the same issue.
I bought a new battery but engine still stop after pressing the button
Ahhh its spinning...inwas tried it in slow mode...its start spinning and works like champ in rabbit mode hahaha
I have exactly the same problem so maybe I need to look at my battery too . Thanks
I have a Kohler in a hustler. It starts fine, but once it's hot, if I disengage the pto for whatever reason, and then try to engage it again, it chokes down, and cuts off. It'll crank, but not turn over. Any idea?
Yes I Husqvarna is actually have an electric PTO sometimes if they get hot they will disengage you may need a new one there is a video I seen on how to test them pretty easy
I had the same issue on my scag had to get a new pto bc it was on all the time not allowing the engine to turn over.
I'll try it. And see. But u don't think the battery will stop it after its running
I bought a brand new battery for my cub cadet it’s only been on for 2 days. my tires came in yesterday, and after I got her all set up I take her out engage the pto and it dies and almost kills my battery
I may be having same issue with an Exmark Turf Tracer i recently restored. Brand new battery. Engine runs and sounds perfect but when I engage the PTO she bogs down a lot but at first the engine would slowly recover to operating rpm but even then the motor didnt sound right until i switched off the PTO.
Last few times i tried she'd bog and die. probably because the batter is a little weak.
I was thinking that maybe the ignition coils were weak but then started thinking the PTO might be engaging to quickly bogging the motor (not sure if thats a thing or not). But I think you might have the answer for me. I seen one of your comments below about a weak battery not being enough to run the ignition, the pto and charge the battery so the ignition suffers with a weak spark.
I'll let you know what i find. Thank you for your video :-)
Very Good!... #70 ✝ {5-13-2022}
Also look for the pto safety switch
Troubleshooting this: Seat safety switch; Brake safety switch; and now low voltage... all each kill the engine. I've shorted the safety switches (for diagnostics) and now check my voltages - 12.8v parked, and 14.6v running. The blade switched on kills the engine, same as releasing the brake (when safety switch installed). Now what?!?
Well, A forth problem could be a short in either of the two safety switch circuits. I'm betting that's what happened when I rolled my tractor onto its side to install the new clutch [which should have been easy to do without rolling it, but I had trouble due to a wrong part].
Well, After checking conductivity through all the safety switch wires (all good), I discovered my problem. The 6201 PTO switch had failed due to the heavy current draw when the clutch melted down. Add that to the list of causes of engine stopping when the brake is released or the PTO switch engaged.
Same mower, same problem. Ended up being a bad coil pack
2:12 You're welcome.
Probably related to the seat switch
I just bought that battery 340 amps from walmart for 40$ in Florida.
What the hell does "choke down" mean. Sounds like a description for a carb/choke problem.
It acted the same way it would if you pulled the choke out after it was running and up to speed and the engine sputters and stops. I've just always called it "choking down"
Thank you very much a sir.
IMO Walmart batteries are now garbage, they used to be decent, but have gone downhill in the past few years. I always tape my receipt to the side of the battery, in a zip-lock bag, because you WILL need to make use of their warranty.
I get a new top of the line battery from walmart every year for free - take them in at night when the shop section of walmart is closed - tell customer service you want to exchange the battery (if within warranty!) they wont even test it - but if you do it during the day - and they test it and it's not totally a dead battery - they will not exchange it - seen it done in a youtube video with a car battery - so i do it and it works - do it with my car - truck - and mower batteries.
Your mower is a Husqvarna build. I had the same issue, but my fix was moving the fuel line away from the cylinder head. It was actually mounted to it, causing vaporlock. It would get just enough gas to run the motor, but if you engage the clutch to the mower, the motor would die.
My Money was on seat switch. Good info. Great voice, do you do voice work?
I would love to have a voice gig! I was in radio thirty years ago, but found out I could make more money as an electrician! Thanks for the comment!
@Rob Douthit I posted this in a comment but it my help others if you state that your video is for an ELECTRIC PTO - here's the fix for a MANUAL DECK ENGAGEMENT mower - the non - switch - but Push the lever or pull it to engage and disengage the deck! It's a lot mower to go through to check! Where I talk about gas in the crank case though sir, that goes for both electric and mechanical (manual) deck engagement systems!
If you have a mower with a mechanical blade engagement - it could be killing the mower when engaged if the safety switch is not being pressed in all the way - if that switch doesn't get pressed in all the way, the engine will die. You will flood the crank case if it dies this way because it grounds the engine and kills the spark - well it still spins until it stops and is sucking fuel into the crank case - remove the spark plug (s) and spin the engine by hand before trying to start it again or you will break all kinds of internals and blow your engine. - mechanical linkage will sometimes have a bracket with a spring in the middle - and a threaded rod that goes through it - [________]
Thanks
Walmart lawn batteries turned to junk 4 years ago and only have gotten worse
Interstate makes good batteries or TSC batteries
Thanks so much!
Screw this! I'm going back to the scythe.
Y'all can take your new-fangled twentieth century technology and shove it!
Thank You!! Wow
Wow saved me
I’m having this same problem... I will get a new battery. Wish me luck, thank you.
did it work?
I think my battery was so weak that it barely had enough omf to crank it. The clutch apparently pulled enough extra juice out of an already weak battery that it bogged the whole system down.
@@SlayerHawkX Yes, it worked. I went online and searched for a lawn mower repair service and found one that had excellent reviews. It turned out that there was a dog leash wrapped around the blade. I don’t have dogs...
Spencer under the seat
hey guys check under your seat there's a plug under the seat plug it in
Sounded like your starter is dragging, it sounded a little noisy.
Sweet
I have new battery in my John Deere La100 riding lawnmower. Everstart, 230cold cranking amps. However you can cut grass for about 10mins. Motor wants to shutdown. Quickly disengage and it runs great. I need some advice, Please!!!!
I have a Similar problem, can mow for 20 min, then starts to die but if i disengage blades engine resumes running smoothly. let me know if u find a fix!
Awesome same issue thx
Bummer; I have the same problem, but my battery is brand new.
A 12 volt battery that reads 12 volts is a dead battery
Dude no way.
WEAK BATTERY.....
LOW POWER.....
SIMPLE....
ALWAYS BATH YOUR LAWN MOWER BEFORE TAKING IT TO THE MECHANIC....
ITS CALL......RESPECT.....
THEY SEE IT.
THEY ADKNOWLEDGE...
THEY DO THE EXTRAS WITH OUT CHARGE.....
I've got a brand new battery
TURN THE PHONE TO LANDSCAPE PLS, YOU DON'T NEED A 4 MIN BORING SPEACH TO SAY CHECK YOUR BATTERY