I believe it is wise to wash the brackets in soapy water before fitting as they have a release oil on them from the casting process. This can stop the Sikaflex from adhering to the plastic. It's certainly worth doing, just in case.
You should read ALL of this: Seriously?? You didn't even clean and prep the roof surface for the adhesive! or mention it. You didn't abrade the smooth shiny surface of the plastic mounting brackets! You do have to careful with plastic, to aid the mass manufacturing process they put a release agent in the plastic to make it quickly release/slip from the production mould this in turn makes it slippery stuff to glue. Even when you sand it to provide a key it's a problem because the release agent is all the way through the plastic . There have been cases where the panel, complete with it's plastic feet has detached and flown off the roof whist on the motorway leaving the adhesive still on the roof but none still on the now detached feet! You need to be very careful about the type of adhesive and what preparation is required, you mention none of this! There are now some much better brackets made of aluminium they fit all along the leading edge of the panel giving wind protection and offering a bigger footprint for the adhesive. Also, aluminium is much more suitable for achieving high bond strength for a long duration. You should be using a high quality structural adhesive like sika 252i, for 'Structural joints subject to dynamic stress' not the sealant you used. The Teroson product you used is a seam and joint sealant, it isn't a structural adhesive. A heavy solar panel is one of those situations where a sealant is not enough, it requires high strength adhesive applied in such a way that when cured the thickness of the bed of adhesive is something like 4-5mm thick The amount of product you applied was not enough, the thickness of it would be non existent by the time you pressed it into position. The adhesive needs to have some volume to it so as to absorb vibrations and other stresses. Really! 4 cheap plastic brackets with a bit of sealant sparingly applied to secure a heavy solar panel to the roof of a van to be driven at 70mph on the motorway! These solar panels weigh 9 or 10 kg, they can and do fly off the roof if not very securely attached, causing serious accidents. Imagine driving behind this vehicle when it comes off! The adhesive footprint of all 4 brackets combined is not much compared to the size of the large panel is it? Would need to be very competently glued down to call it safe for the road wouldn't it! You should take this film down before people copy you! If you are not using mechanical fixings as well then at least stick it down properly for our safety's sake! You are in a responsible position here and should be explaining about the importance of using the best practise, quality adhesives and good preparation work. You should emphasise the potential dangers of gluing a large heavy panel to the roof of a vehicle! I wonder how many road users realise that caravan and motorhome owners are fixing very heavy solar panels to their roofs with a bit of unspecified sealant and no screws or bolts? When you think of some peoples lack of diy skills and the lack of skilled knowledge about doing this job correctly it's scary. And this film above is from a professional outfit! Also, you might have talked about the limitations of siting it with the aerial casting it's shadow. Also the gland is designed to have it's sloping side set to the front of van. Also I notice the first screw was a pan head and the second screw was a countersink. Bodge! Also you might advise that where poss it's preferable to site the panel with the narrowest edge to the front to reduce wind drag. Also, why is there music playing whilst you are doing an instructional film? For heavens sake Peter you are supposed to be a professional, you introduced yourself as MMM's technical person! "MMM TV shows you how to fit a solar panel to your motorhome's roof. It's simpler than you think!" Well that's disturbing isn't it! MMM think it's a simple task!!!!
Hi Mark, the sealant used was as supplied by the firm that supplied the panel and is entirely suitable for this use and plenty of sealant was applied - it's rock solid once set. We all have our own preferences to sealant adhesives. All mating surfaces were cleaned with solvent (not sure if edit showed this). The brackets were decent quality solid items (as supplied in the kit) and work fine. Shadow cast from aerials etc is always an issue but you're always limited as to the best place to site the panel based on its size - this was the only place that this particular panel could be fitted. And yes you're quite right once of the screws is different (one snapped in the supplied kit, so I had to substitute one during filming). The gland orientation isn't relevant - it all depends where the area of low pressure on the roof is as to how the wind affects it (it's waterproof from all directions). As for the music - well there's no pleasing some people!
You're exactly right in all your points and if I were him I wouldn't have defended any of it and just taken it down! Anyone who puts the gland shroud back to front has to have limited aptitude for this kind of task imho!
Good practice to fit a isolator between panel and controller and connect battery before panel to controller. Its always worrying that its only sikaflex and a thin layer of paint holding that panel on, but i suppose its the acceptable way nowadays
enjoyed the video, however, lost me at the point of connecting to the battery and the earth, you showed neither in depth which is where most of us ams need the help
Is the glue sufficient to hold the panel in place on the roof even in worst case scenarios like gale force winds against a moving vehicle? (at say, 70 mph)
Shouldn't the cable gland cover have the sloping part facing forward & the cable coming out the rear? i.e. along the length of the van rather than across the width?
This is exactly how I expected, the only thing I am concerned about is that there are also other methods of battery charging, I.e the alternator, and another charger powered when hooked up to the mains... can these affect/damage each other in any kind of way? Do they have their own protection against this, or is it something that is unimportant and do not affect each other in any way??
That's the issue I am trying to have clarified too. My van already had alternator and mains hook-up supplies, so how does the solar connect to all that? I've asked this question on other channels too, but they think they have explained it already.
Hi, following mmm’s latest edition, installing a photonics universe panel, I bought the kit, however it is hardly a kit, consisting of just panel and regulator, fitted with mc4 connectors ( why? When the regulator is not mc4 and to install, they have to be cut off?). Missing are the screw fixings, panel mounts, sikaflex, aerodynamic gland, conduit etc. I expected a better recommendation from mmm. This too is far from professional, the glands and mountings need to be prepared 1st before gluing with sikaflex, I would never solely rely on a 12kg panel fitted to a roof without bolts.
I had a 180 watt solar panel on the roof of my Bailey caravan and that was only bonded on with Sikaflex. It never moved in the ten years I owned it. I would say though that this video omits to advise that you key the surface of the feet and the roof prior to bonding. That plastic often has release agent on it, and is far too smooth. The caravan/motorhome roof may well have wax on the paint, which will also reduce the adhesion properties. I'm glad that guy didn't do my panel, that's for sure, especially with his rather untidy wiring in the wardrobe.
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
I believe it is wise to wash the brackets in soapy water before fitting as they have a release oil on them from the casting process. This can stop the Sikaflex from adhering to the plastic. It's certainly worth doing, just in case.
0:17 Great idea, get it as close to something that will throw shade at it.
You should read ALL of this:
Seriously?? You didn't even clean and prep the roof surface for the adhesive! or mention it. You didn't abrade the smooth shiny surface of the plastic mounting brackets! You do have to careful with plastic, to aid the mass manufacturing process they put a release agent in the plastic to make it quickly release/slip from the production mould this in turn makes it slippery stuff to glue. Even when you sand it to provide a key it's a problem because the release agent is all the way through the plastic . There have been cases where the panel, complete with it's plastic feet has detached and flown off the roof whist on the motorway leaving the adhesive still on the roof but none still on the now detached feet! You need to be very careful about the type of adhesive and what preparation is required, you mention none of this! There are now some much better brackets made of aluminium they fit all along the leading edge of the panel giving wind protection and offering a bigger footprint for the adhesive. Also, aluminium is much more suitable for achieving high bond strength for a long duration. You should be using a high quality structural adhesive like sika 252i, for 'Structural joints subject to dynamic stress' not the sealant you used. The Teroson product you used is a seam and joint sealant, it isn't a structural adhesive. A heavy solar panel is one of those situations where a sealant is not enough, it requires high strength adhesive applied in such a way that when cured the thickness of the bed of adhesive is something like 4-5mm thick The amount of product you applied was not enough, the thickness of it would be non existent by the time you pressed it into position. The adhesive needs to have some volume to it so as to absorb vibrations and other stresses. Really! 4 cheap plastic brackets with a bit of sealant sparingly applied to secure a heavy solar panel to the roof of a van to be driven at 70mph on the motorway! These solar panels weigh 9 or 10 kg, they can and do fly off the roof if not very securely attached, causing serious accidents. Imagine driving behind this vehicle when it comes off! The adhesive footprint of all 4 brackets combined is not much compared to the size of the large panel is it? Would need to be very competently glued down to call it safe for the road wouldn't it! You should take this film down before people copy you! If you are not using mechanical fixings as well then at least stick it down properly for our safety's sake! You are in a responsible position here and should be explaining about the importance of using the best practise, quality adhesives and good preparation work. You should emphasise the potential dangers of gluing a large heavy panel to the roof of a vehicle! I wonder how many road users realise that caravan and motorhome owners are fixing very heavy solar panels to their roofs with a bit of unspecified sealant and no screws or bolts? When you think of some peoples lack of diy skills and the lack of skilled knowledge about doing this job correctly it's scary. And this film above is from a professional outfit!
Also, you might have talked about the limitations of siting it with the aerial casting it's shadow.
Also the gland is designed to have it's sloping side set to the front of van.
Also I notice the first screw was a pan head and the second screw was a countersink. Bodge!
Also you might advise that where poss it's preferable to site the panel with the narrowest edge to the front to reduce wind drag.
Also, why is there music playing whilst you are doing an instructional film?
For heavens sake Peter you are supposed to be a professional, you introduced yourself as MMM's technical person!
"MMM TV shows you how to fit a solar panel to your motorhome's roof. It's simpler than you think!"
Well that's disturbing isn't it! MMM think it's a simple task!!!!
Hi Mark, the sealant used was as supplied by the firm that supplied the panel and is entirely suitable for this use and plenty of sealant was applied - it's rock solid once set. We all have our own preferences to sealant adhesives. All mating surfaces were cleaned with solvent (not sure if edit showed this). The brackets were decent quality solid items (as supplied in the kit) and work fine. Shadow cast from aerials etc is always an issue but you're always limited as to the best place to site the panel based on its size - this was the only place that this particular panel could be fitted. And yes you're quite right once of the screws is different (one snapped in the supplied kit, so I had to substitute one during filming). The gland orientation isn't relevant - it all depends where the area of low pressure on the roof is as to how the wind affects it (it's waterproof from all directions). As for the music - well there's no pleasing some people!
You're exactly right in all your points and if I were him I wouldn't have defended any of it and just taken it down! Anyone who puts the gland shroud back to front has to have limited aptitude for this kind of task imho!
Great video and love the one cable and corners..., but for what I've heard... the Charge Controler is to be as Close to the Batteries as possible.
Good practice to fit a isolator between panel and controller and connect battery before panel to controller. Its always worrying that its only sikaflex and a thin layer of paint holding that panel on, but i suppose its the acceptable way nowadays
Made the whole job look really simple thanks I will be fitting a panel now
enjoyed the video, however, lost me at the point of connecting to the battery and the earth, you showed neither in depth which is where most of us ams need the help
Is the glue sufficient to hold the panel in place on the roof even in worst case scenarios like gale force winds against a moving vehicle? (at say, 70 mph)
Which is better to use for motorhomes, the panels that you used in the video or can others use those thinner, slightly semi-flexible panels?
Shouldn't the cable gland cover have the sloping part facing forward & the cable coming out the rear? i.e. along the length of the van rather than across the width?
Some consideration should be given to the shading fo the panel by the tv Ariel. It'll have a significant impact on the total generation of the panel.
Thank's for the video, i do wonder though why it's thought that background music is needed; it's actually quite distracting, imo of course :)
What size fuse is it?
This is exactly how I expected, the only thing I am concerned about is that there are also other methods of battery charging, I.e the alternator, and another charger powered when hooked up to the mains... can these affect/damage each other in any kind of way? Do they have their own protection against this, or is it something that is unimportant and do not affect each other in any way??
That's the issue I am trying to have clarified too. My van already had alternator and mains hook-up supplies, so how does the solar connect to all that? I've asked this question on other channels too, but they think they have explained it already.
Hi, following mmm’s latest edition, installing a photonics universe panel, I bought the kit, however it is hardly a kit, consisting of just panel and regulator, fitted with mc4 connectors ( why? When the regulator is not mc4 and to install, they have to be cut off?). Missing are the screw fixings, panel mounts, sikaflex, aerodynamic gland, conduit etc. I expected a better recommendation from mmm.
This too is far from professional, the glands and mountings need to be prepared 1st before gluing with sikaflex, I would never solely rely on a 12kg panel fitted to a roof without bolts.
The glue used to secure roof solar panel is little different to how car manufacturers glue quarter panels into vehicles - it won’t come off
Hi, What glue did you use for the feet? Thanks
Sikaflex 221 is the recommended sealant for any external vehicle modification.
My biggest hate using different types of screws to hold in feet in place.
Great video...
Is gluing really enough? I've heard scary stories of panels taking flight...
No it is not IMHO. You are essentially just gluing to the paint, you need to screw as well.
I had a 180 watt solar panel on the roof of my Bailey caravan and that was only bonded on with Sikaflex. It never moved in the ten years I owned it. I would say though that this video omits to advise that you key the surface of the feet and the roof prior to bonding. That plastic often has release agent on it, and is far too smooth. The caravan/motorhome roof may well have wax on the paint, which will also reduce the adhesion properties.
I'm glad that guy didn't do my panel, that's for sure, especially with his rather untidy wiring in the wardrobe.
What about the controller? Don’t need one? If you do can you fit any type? Do the feeds from the panel need to be fused?
How many amps ?
The information is amazing, but... the background song is terrible!!! But thank you!
Is the answer “very carefully”
Isn''t the TV Aerial shading the panel, i heard if you shade part of a panel it won't work? 8.13 on the vid
wow the screw changed colour
Has no IDEA.
Now pray for the sun :)
Great video! Really don’t need the annoying music though - way too loud & distracting
Good vid and useful too...but wtf .with the music ?? Don't need the very annoying distraction !
i don't know what's more annoying ,,,the music or Peter,
Neil Whitcombe def the music!