Good effort. As a Worcester engineer I'll give you some pointers which I carry out when replacing the diverter valve. 1. NEVER TOUCH THE FLOW AND RTN ISOLATION VALVES! They usually leak! If they do then pressurise and run the htg. The flow pipe heats up and the leak normally stops after a while. Otherwise its blr off the wall job. 2. Replace the aav and prv at the same time. That way it vents properly when refilling and you don't have to bleed the pump getting water on your pcb. They aren't expensive and the old ones will probably leak when refilling. 3. Disconnect the pipe into the exp vessel and recharge using your hose attached to the inlet of the vessel. That way you don't push shit around your blr. 4. Pull out the filling link still attached to the div valve. It gives you extra leverage and the silver u clip is easier to remove/refit. Whilst its out remove the grey cap and put a tiny bit of grease on the spindle. Refit the grey cap and work the grease into the spindle. Less chance of the grey cap rounding off then. 5.A few wraps of ptfe around the brass cold mains inlet will help prevent leaks on the cold mains when refitting the div valve. 6. Only remove/refit the bypass connection when the div valve is loosened and 4 screws removed. Otherwise its a bitch to put back in when the div valve is tightened up because the bypass hits the flow pipe under the pump. 7. Grease and fit the 22mm fibre washer for the pump connection when you offer up the div valve. Again, very difficult to fit when div valve has been tightened up. 8. Make sure the flow isolation connection is IMMACULATE before you put the new o-ring on. Wd40 and an angled toothbrush will do, clean the hell out of it. If it leaks you'll have to start all over again. 9. Remove and clean the pressure guage whilst the blr is drained. Its usually blocked/restricted. 10. If the big dhw heat ex clip is not going in, grease it and use big grips to gently squeeze the plate and manifold together, the clip will then slip in. Grease the screw and don't overtighten, it might shear off. Tighten the screw and 22mm brass nut on the plate in equal measure so they line up correctly. Well done though, the div valve can be a pig to replace. Oh, and the expansion vessel? If changing remove the side panel, slip it out and pop rivet the side panel back on once the new one is in. Saves taking the manifolds out.
I had a video of doing the vessel that way but didn't have the balls to upload it. 1) I never isolate these. (other engineer did) 2) People don't want to pay for parts but if I have them I agree. 3) I always pump vessels and never thought of that!! Good tip!! 4) Grey cap is POS 5) I will try that. I never wanted to risk anything on this because its such a pain in the ass!! 6) Just learned that on this job 7) Yep 8) I have never had an issue with that connection but I do always clean them. 9) Yep 10) Yep Thanks for that top notch advise. Its always good to hear from someone who does it more often and has it locked down. Maybe you shouldn't look at the next Worcester video!!! ;-)
Another great video from a top boiler guy!!!! Well done and massive thank you for showing us. Also you are a hero for working on an old and in a very poor condition boiler!
Thank you so much for this video. The diverter valve almost beat me up, but after 5 hours manage to defeat it 🤣. Your video was really helpful! Thank you!
Mate I’m so impressed with the details and the time and explaining you do in your vids ,best ones out there what I’ve seen so a big thank you and it is much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@garylawton7254 I would have the one that your local engineer wants to fit and look after for the next 10 years. No matter the brand. All of the brands you have listed are ok. I have a Vaillant in my own house. :-)
Been meaning to comment of this for a while. Done a job not long ago replacing a diverted on this and this video is absolutely spot on! Actually met you at the alpha training centre. Hope things have picked up for you since then. Thanks for all the videos mate you’re a master at work!
Nice one thanks. :-) Yeah, Alpha have been keeping me busy since then. This is one of the parts that you just have to do a few times before it becomes straight forward. :-) Were you on the installer or agent training?
HeatingGeek yeh I would definitely refresh my memory on this video when I get another lol! I was actually on the breakdown course but see you in the canteen bit and thought f*ck me he looks familiar lol glad they’re keeping ya busy mate
I have a contract where I look after about 40 of these lovely old well built boilers, needless to say I have changed quite a few diverter valves over the years but never have I once had to remove the PCB control box. I Always re-pressurise the expansion vessel blowing the water out of the plastic drain valves before disconnecting any water components, NEVER do I touch the heating Iso valves! Another tip is to remove the hot water thermistor which will enable you to swing the diverter valve away from the rear of the boiler and help in disconnecting/re-connecting the by-pass pipe. I ALWAYS replace the heating flow valve "O" ring and thoroughly clean the valve with acid cleaner or similar before fitting the new O ring, same for cold water valve O ring.
Because I don't isolate the boiler either you often get the system pulling in air and flooding out the DV (But only once you have it more than half way out!). I just remove the PCB as habit now. One day it will save my ass, so why not!!. If I flooded a customers PCB I wouldn't expect them to pay for another one so Im protecting my own pocket.
In fairness all the ones I do are above the radiator level in flats so no issue with water above the boiler level!, makes it nice n easy for me to drain the boiler without any of the system dumping water on me !! ;)
Yep your right. I think boiler manufactures are trying to corner the market with there long warranties. If we start to recommend newer easer to repair boilers we loose the customer for 7-10 years.
Hi I saw your videos and I really enjoyed it keep up the good work. I have a Main Eco 30 Combi boiler I was fitted about 7 years ago, the whole pipe work is new and radiators. There is one thing that annoys me on my boiler is that when ever is ignites it makes a small tiny explosive noise you can hear it from far 😫 I have so far replaced the electrodes since it was old and bent (it was working but I wanted to avoid it failing), the heat exchanger was hoovered and the seal was replaced, the diverter valve and actuator was replaced (since a small leak damaged it). I have regularly flashed the water out using the drain point and running the boiler and keeping an eye on the pressure (the water is never too dark and flush it until it is clear water, I added some inhabitors, clean the filter out and took the air out of the rads, it is well balanced too. I had to pressurise the extension vessel which is good now, on the same time I took the prv out and cleaned it very little dirt on it it’s working good, I also cleaned out the part in which condensation and other dirt accumulate. There is one thing that annoys me on my boiler is that when ever is ignites it makes a small tiny explosive noise you can hear it from far 😫, you could describe it like a small delayed ignition 🤷🏽♂️ What would you recommend to check?
had many nightmares with that bypass pipe too also i agree with mr wimms this boiler taught me many years ago never touch isolation valves on these boilers and very last resort on any boiler , great vid you def earn your crust fella
Thanks. I think the slow way is often faster. Clean, grease etc etc etc. I use isolation valves on some boilers. Vaillant are great except the ecomax, which is dog s#$%.
I have a plumber coming to replace the Diverter Valve in same bolier as you show. Although my boiler has no leaks whatsoever I'm amazed at the amount of work involved. I had the PCB replaced 12 months ago so don't want to risk any water on it! My boiler (as others have said) is higher than the radiators as I am in a flat. Should I insist he removes the drop down panel as a precaution? Gotta say I'm impressed with your diligence and perservering with the 'hardest of jobs' when so many would turn up suck in some air through their teeth shake their head and say those imortal words ' Need a new boiler mate' :) Great ref vid I shall bookmark for my H.E. if he fancies a gander :)
great vid mate, I have had the same problem you normally face, where the main inlet feed to the diverter valve leaks though it takes me hours as I am an amateur lol.
I use to take the bypass pipe out but then another engineer you told me you can swing the pipe out of way also I never touch the isolation valve. But great work.
I learnt the hard way to always remove the pcb whilst changing the diverter valve on that boiler , spent about 3 to 4 hours changing the thing on the first time i done one got the pcb wet with power off ...dried off pcb turned on and still blew it...thay was a painfull experience....i haven't done one since! Never had that issue again on that boiler. I wish i can say i can laugh about it now but i cant 😁
Great info job well done mate. Just had 37cdi heat cell with leak no trace of water anywhere. Isolated boiler lost pressure thru condensate into bucket, obvious internal leak is there a 10 yr warranty on the 37cdi?
Great effort but now I'm older looks like a hard way to earn a crust lol would rather install a new boiler when I was young and keen I would have repaired it like you.keep up the good work enjoy watching your vids Regards Lee old school plumber
@@HeatingGeek Yes it is a hard game long hours and hard work and the work always comes at once done it from leaving school and dad was a plumber so I spend most hoilday helping him carrying the big red gas bottle working with lead and loads of barrel work which iv always enjoyed .I admire your enthusiasm on Jobs it can be frustrating repair work keep up the good work and hopefully you can retire soon and play golf all day lol
Great video, some great tips! Your methodical approach serves you well repairing these boilers! Any chance you could upload the expansion vessel / pop rivet the case video as that would be interesting to see 👌
I have thought about that video a lot. I don't think I will do it as it could cause issues and complaints. I have replaced it several times that way but don't think Worcester would agree.
HeatingGeek yeah true, although judging by the above comment the worcester repair engineers do it the same way! Surely if it's pop riveted back on then it's a good job done 👌
@@Stillbusy105 you could put self tappers in because you know your be replacing it again when that 6 litre vessel goes again why manufacturers can put a 12 litre vessel in I never know so you don't need a second one
I have this same boiler with three terminals on the fan, two at one end of the coil and one at the other, (black/white/ red wires) can some kind soul, please advise which coloured wire goes to which terminal as, stupidly I disconnected it without noting the details.
Great vids man. I would feel remiss however if I didn't point out the CO2 reading was low at the end. should really be 6.7 or else the ratio is void. I had to do hundreds of these on my apprenticeship. The expansion vessel is a right beast. Now im self employed that bad boy becomes remote or the boiler is a goner!! once again top vids man. ( i especially liked you pointing out to clean the connections on the o rings. Wish i had seen this i learned the hard way!!)
@@HeatingGeek in the instructions it has a co2 level to ensure the gas valve is correctly set. I believe on these ( if memory serves) its between 6-7 %. If the gas valve is set wrong the ratio becomes irrelevant as half is flawed. Hope I've explained that well. I've been up for two days straight with 4 month twins. Love the channel man. It's been really soothing to watch in my downtime.
@@spamuelllewellyn3950 Twins. :-) That's sleep-deprived. The burner pressure wasn't stable when I tested it so maybe that had something to do with it. I didn't know there was a co2 on these. :-0... I will remember to look at the MI's on the next one. :-) 4 months is when things start to settle down. Hopefully....
Great vid Ollie. Had to do one the other day helped me out brilliantly. That o ring on the flow is crap though. I don't think the spigot sticks out through far enough. Keep up the good vids mate.
@@HeatingGeek I see what you mean 1 fell out as I took it out they used 2 one as a face seal. They should put that o ring in a separate packet or make it a different colour. Great boiler though pretty bulletproof.
I remember my first week being qualified i had to change the expansion vessel on one of these (didnt know the side panel trick either). It took all day to do as it wouldnt stop leaking and i spent that night wondering if id made a mistake becoming a gas man 😂
A Worcester would do that to you. There is a great feeling though once you get them working and they are the boilers you'd be meticulous about everything when replacing parts you'd clean seating and grease O rings just because you don't want the whole hassle of taking it apart again. They say calm seas don't make skilled sailors and a Worcester boiler is a full-blown storm so get used to that and most other boilers are smooth sailing.
@@megaman1806 You're not wrong mate, that was a baptism of fire for me just starting out. I did get better at them though, like you said take your time, clean and grease everything, and then after all that you wouldnt get a leak on the diverter or any of the connections your touched. It would be the iso valves that leaked for no reason instead 😂
Thanks for this great video! Question please, how easy is it to replace the PRV? I see there is v little space between the top of the PRV and the side panel.
I've got an issue ....I bought a new duverter cartridge and I checked its the right 1 etc via model number . Its longer than the 1 that came out and although threads etc seem same . It won't allow it to go in due to the base plates /seals Any help thanks
@Oliver Gilcreest was a baxi part ..but it stayed the model 80he instant baxi. I'm currently in talks woth supplier.....the old was just a bit yucky I cleaned it up and lubed 4 now the spring seemed tidy etc...... emptied system water wasn't to bad tbh relatively clean ..... inhibitor back in and pressurised the heat exchanger I simply flushed woth a hose . It was dirty but free and once ran clear I was happy . Just need to get a 1000uf 50v capacitor Tom morning fir the pcb I've got a replacement pcb on order but its all cleaned up well so just needs a new capacitor...... Once I get that in it goes and can test the hot water function
I keep hearing about this powder flushing I can only guess it's a abrusive powder a bit like sand blasting .I do a lot of power flushing and allways do it hot and get good results but you will never totally clean the pipe like if you scrubbed it.what is your view on it do you think it could damage pipework and boiler components you can not buy these powders they have patent it like you I like to do the best job I can and am intreasted to know if it's as good as they say and maybe some one can make some think similar
Don't hav to take boiler off wall not how it's designed to be done. But is some times easier to do it that way if doing right way get right hand plastic manifold. Wbs hav that many o rings it's a nightmare
I will be starting to replace these boilers soon as the housing association has a policy to fit condensing boilers to all their properties. Just wondered if any of you guys have signed up to ATAG boilers and if so have you had any issues with them to date? I have fitted about 10 so far without any issues, they give you a 10 year warranty and are a quality bit of kit from what I can see, No composite plastic components and a quality in-house built stainless steel heat exchanger. Would be interested to hear anyone else's views or experiences.
My local rep is an ex-installer and very knowledgeable...….certainly worth a look if you haven't considered them already. I am a long term Vaillant man but am being turned to Atag through issues with Vaillant Quality. The need to compete with the masses has changed their company ethos in my opinion, ……….they just want to sell more boilers!!!!!
Hello heating geek. Just found your channel and must say I’m slightly envious of your knowledge at such a young age. Can I ask what case you have your analyser in?
Its in an old Testo case. Much better than anything Kane has at the moment. Unfortunately its falling apart and I have another one coming from the US which might work. If it does I will let you know. I have the Testo case in part 3 of my tools video which I need to upload and will do once I pull my finger out. :-)
I know it is! I have the same attitude myself. So much to learn tho!!! Do you have any vids or advice on the basics of a boiler/heating system to get me started? I've only found the complex stuff of yours so far 😉
I have a problem with the pressure on this boiler. I get it to 1.5 bar and within a few hours it drops to 0.5 bar and stays steady at that pressure till i turn on the boiler. Do you think the diverter diaphragm is getting holed and the system pressure is keeping it at 0.5bar?
Maybe. Maybe not. I wish I had a crystal ball. This is the best solution for this customer as they have insurance and it costs them very little to repair the boiler.
Great video. I thought that you had to remove the filling loop when you removed the heat exchanger but it seems like you don't, or did I miss that bit? :)
Just watching your video I have a similar problem I have a 24 CDI with a water leak on the left-hand side just as you have just done the repair also there is a leak that I can't see where it's coming from on the right hand side not very much at all but are both there recently I've had another problem arise when you are running the hot water the radiators are getting hot upstairs and is taking some time for the hot water to reach the taps would this be the diaphragm in the diverter valve and have you come across this problem much appreciated A answer
I have the same boiler as this.... Today its stopped working.... When I put the heating on the pilot fires up and we get heating but when I turn the hot tap the boiler does not respond.... No hot water.... What do you think the problem could be?.... Thermocouple or diverter valve?
Just noticed looking at your vid again that the plastic shroud is missing that normally covers the back of the PCB housing, that would not have helped in initially helping to save the PCB from becoming fried! ;)
When I qualified , youtube didn't exist , I could still change one of these in less than 40 mins , did get the pcb wet first time I changed one though .
Analyser Is king to me. Its the best tool to find issues with safety. I use it on almost everything. I do avoid big Suprima's and things like Swiftflows though.
What I normally do with the front panel is get my snips, snip all the wires off and launch it out the front door along with the rest of it shortly after.
Tbf I do agree with you. I applaud you for doing a diverter on one of them whilst filming and not swearing once. Really enjoy the vids, they have given me a renewed interest in fixing rather than replacing 👍🏼
I will add some stuff to my videos soon so you can get in touch. Some how you can because I get emails from people all the time who got my info from youtube. I don't know how though .
What ever the guy who will look after it thinks is best. Get a local guy and use him to recommend and he can look after it for the next 10-15 years. Its the best way. :-)
Good boiler shit design. New Worcesters are even worse, plastic hydraulics that are prone to leaking and razor sharp casings that make it lethal to work and dont get me started on the prv location 😂
I've a Worcester Bosch 240 rsf, 23yr old. (1996) It's leaking from PVR and the fill loop. Just bought those parts wondering if I can squeeze some more life out of this baby. I think I could change fill loop but prv not really. Been a pretty reliable boiler really, fitted by British gas. Only changed a diverter valve (plumber) and, I changed a fan myself which was easy . I'm gonna squeeze hard. But will look at newun. Any one any view on a make ? As it lives in the inside part of a former coal shed, I think I'd need a soak away for the condense pipe. (If I got a newun that is) Which, will have to go through the coal shed and out. I must admit my boiler although big compared to newer ones, looks cramped inside, doesn't look easy to work on, but I'm a layman so maybe talking bull.
@smile 2192 ive been installing and diagnosing for 30 years.there comes a point when cost effectiveness and my time overcome old boilers.i always look at fixing firstly.but many times the long warranty and reliability of a new boiler using hind sight ends up being the best solution.this results in happy customers with boilers that dont break down every 5 minutes. you only get knowledge like this after visiting thousands of boilers of the years.
Good effort. As a Worcester engineer I'll give you some pointers which I carry out when replacing the diverter valve.
1. NEVER TOUCH THE FLOW AND RTN ISOLATION VALVES! They usually leak! If they do then pressurise and run the htg. The flow pipe heats up and the leak normally stops after a while. Otherwise its blr off the wall job.
2. Replace the aav and prv at the same time. That way it vents properly when refilling and you don't have to bleed the pump getting water on your pcb. They aren't expensive and the old ones will probably leak when refilling.
3. Disconnect the pipe into the exp vessel and recharge using your hose attached to the inlet of the vessel. That way you don't push shit around your blr.
4. Pull out the filling link still attached to the div valve. It gives you extra leverage and the silver u clip is easier to remove/refit. Whilst its out remove the grey cap and put a tiny bit of grease on the spindle. Refit the grey cap and work the grease into the spindle. Less chance of the grey cap rounding off then.
5.A few wraps of ptfe around the brass cold mains inlet will help prevent leaks on the cold mains when refitting the div valve.
6. Only remove/refit the bypass connection when the div valve is loosened and 4 screws removed. Otherwise its a bitch to put back in when the div valve is tightened up because the bypass hits the flow pipe under the pump.
7. Grease and fit the 22mm fibre washer for the pump connection when you offer up the div valve. Again, very difficult to fit when div valve has been tightened up.
8. Make sure the flow isolation connection is IMMACULATE before you put the new o-ring on. Wd40 and an angled toothbrush will do, clean the hell out of it. If it leaks you'll have to start all over again.
9. Remove and clean the pressure guage whilst the blr is drained. Its usually blocked/restricted.
10. If the big dhw heat ex clip is not going in, grease it and use big grips to gently squeeze the plate and manifold together, the clip will then slip in. Grease the screw and don't overtighten, it might shear off. Tighten the screw and 22mm brass nut on the plate in equal measure so they line up correctly.
Well done though, the div valve can be a pig to replace.
Oh, and the expansion vessel? If changing remove the side panel, slip it out and pop rivet the side panel back on once the new one is in. Saves taking the manifolds out.
I had a video of doing the vessel that way but didn't have the balls to upload it.
1) I never isolate these. (other engineer did)
2) People don't want to pay for parts but if I have them I agree.
3) I always pump vessels and never thought of that!! Good tip!!
4) Grey cap is POS
5) I will try that. I never wanted to risk anything on this because its such a pain in the ass!!
6) Just learned that on this job
7) Yep
8) I have never had an issue with that connection but I do always clean them.
9) Yep
10) Yep
Thanks for that top notch advise. Its always good to hear from someone who does it more often and has it locked down.
Maybe you shouldn't look at the next Worcester video!!!
;-)
Kieran Wims some great advice! I’m not sure I follow no.3 though. Did you just mean pump up the vessel with the connection pipe disconnected?
Thats exactly what he means. Great idea too. Stops all the crap out of the vessel going into the boiler.
Thanks for clarifying
No worrie. Good effort by Kieran Wims here. ;-)
Ok so I am off to do one of these this morning ... watched your video ten times now ... wish me luck ... brilliant video
Another great video from a top boiler guy!!!! Well done and massive thank you for showing us. Also you are a hero for working on an old and in a very poor condition boiler!
I will fix anything if I'm getting paid. :-)
Thank you so much for this video. The diverter valve almost beat me up, but after 5 hours manage to defeat it 🤣. Your video was really helpful! Thank you!
Mate I’m so impressed with the details and the time and explaining you do in your vids ,best ones out there what I’ve seen so a big thank you and it is much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. I have been a bit slow lately. Too much to edit etc.
Thanks for this, gave me the confidence to have a go at mine, 4 hours later job done and boiler is working a treat.
Bet it was a stressful 4 hours :-)
@@HeatingGeek thought you only did vaillant mate lol? another great helpful clip... class act
@@garylawton7254 I do anything. Like Vaillant though.:-)
@@HeatingGeek which combi boiler from one's below ive listed would you have in your owm house mate? Vaillant baxi worcester ideal ? Thanks
@@garylawton7254 I would have the one that your local engineer wants to fit and look after for the next 10 years. No matter the brand. All of the brands you have listed are ok. I have a Vaillant in my own house. :-)
Been meaning to comment of this for a while. Done a job not long ago replacing a diverted on this and this video is absolutely spot on! Actually met you at the alpha training centre. Hope things have picked up for you since then. Thanks for all the videos mate you’re a master at work!
Nice one thanks. :-) Yeah, Alpha have been keeping me busy since then. This is one of the parts that you just have to do a few times before it becomes straight forward. :-) Were you on the installer or agent training?
HeatingGeek yeh I would definitely refresh my memory on this video when I get another lol! I was actually on the breakdown course but see you in the canteen bit and thought f*ck me he looks familiar lol glad they’re keeping ya busy mate
Thanks for the video, I am a newbie on boilers and these sure do help.
Got your email. How did you get the address?
I don't mind, just don't know how others can get it.
I have a contract where I look after about 40 of these lovely old well built boilers, needless to say I have changed quite a few diverter valves over the years but never have I once had to remove the PCB control box. I Always re-pressurise the expansion vessel blowing the water out of the plastic drain valves before disconnecting any water components, NEVER do I touch the heating Iso valves!
Another tip is to remove the hot water thermistor which will enable you to swing the diverter valve away from the rear of the boiler and help in disconnecting/re-connecting the by-pass pipe. I ALWAYS replace the heating flow valve "O" ring and thoroughly clean the valve with acid cleaner or similar before fitting the new O ring, same for cold water valve O ring.
Because I don't isolate the boiler either you often get the system pulling in air and flooding out the DV (But only once you have it more than half way out!). I just remove the PCB as habit now.
One day it will save my ass, so why not!!.
If I flooded a customers PCB I wouldn't expect them to pay for another one so Im protecting my own pocket.
In fairness all the ones I do are above the radiator level in flats so no issue with water above the boiler level!, makes it nice n easy for me to drain the boiler without any of the system dumping water on me !! ;)
Best boiler on the market. Don’t think so. Only way to mend it. Take apart completely. Great
Yep your right. I think boiler manufactures are trying to corner the market with there long warranties. If we start to recommend newer easer to repair boilers we loose the customer for 7-10 years.
Hi I saw your videos and I really enjoyed it keep up the good work.
I have a Main Eco 30 Combi boiler I was fitted about 7 years ago, the whole pipe work is new and radiators.
There is one thing that annoys me on my boiler is that when ever is ignites it makes a small tiny explosive noise you can hear it from far 😫
I have so far replaced the electrodes since it was old and bent (it was working but I wanted to avoid it failing), the heat exchanger was hoovered and the seal was replaced, the diverter valve and actuator was replaced (since a small leak damaged it).
I have regularly flashed the water out using the drain point and running the boiler and keeping an eye on the pressure (the water is never too dark and flush it until it is clear water, I added some inhabitors, clean the filter out and took the air out of the rads, it is well balanced too.
I had to pressurise the extension vessel which is good now, on the same time I took the prv out and cleaned it very little dirt on it it’s working good, I also cleaned out the part in which condensation and other dirt accumulate.
There is one thing that annoys me on my boiler is that when ever is ignites it makes a small tiny explosive noise you can hear it from far 😫, you could describe it like a small delayed ignition 🤷🏽♂️
What would you recommend to check?
had many nightmares with that bypass pipe too also i agree with mr wimms this boiler taught me many years ago never touch isolation valves on these boilers and very last resort on any boiler , great vid you def earn your crust fella
Thanks. I think the slow way is often faster. Clean, grease etc etc etc.
I use isolation valves on some boilers. Vaillant are great except the ecomax, which is dog s#$%.
funny you saying that about vaillant and there i was thinking they are ok . I have a rule never ever touch them unless essential
Good rule. I have a rule too. Only use them when I have the pressure out.
Again, Never use Vaillant ecomax valves they will leak. Almost every time.
I have a plumber coming to replace the Diverter Valve in same bolier as you show. Although my boiler has no leaks whatsoever I'm amazed at the amount of work involved. I had the PCB replaced 12 months ago so don't want to risk any water on it! My boiler (as others have said) is higher than the radiators as I am in a flat. Should I insist he removes the drop down panel as a precaution? Gotta say I'm impressed with your diligence and perservering with the 'hardest of jobs' when so many would turn up suck in some air through their teeth shake their head and say those imortal words ' Need a new boiler mate' :) Great ref vid I shall bookmark for my H.E. if he fancies a gander :)
Great video as usual I never stop learning in this game Keep up the good work
Thanks. :-)
Every days a school day.
great vid mate, I have had the same problem you normally face, where the main inlet feed to the diverter valve leaks though it takes me hours as I am an amateur lol.
I use to take the bypass pipe out but then another engineer you told me you can swing the pipe out of way also I never touch the isolation valve. But great work.
I don't touch the isolation valve on this boiler. Previous engineer did.
I like these boilers except everything below the combustion chamber....
Smashed it once again Brv...changing a pump on this tomorrow my 5th one this year..👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 Moe
Do you just replace the head?
I learnt the hard way to always remove the pcb whilst changing the diverter valve on that boiler , spent about 3 to 4 hours changing the thing on the first time i done one got the pcb wet with power off ...dried off pcb turned on and still blew it...thay was a painfull experience....i haven't done one since! Never had that issue again on that boiler. I wish i can say i can laugh about it now but i cant 😁
Im sure you will do another one sooner or later. Its a very fiddly job. Especially when your new to the industry.
I stick a plastic rubbish sack over the fascia, and then towels on top. Water running down wires straight in the board is what normally happens
Great info job well done mate. Just had 37cdi heat cell with leak no trace of water anywhere. Isolated boiler lost pressure thru condensate into bucket, obvious internal leak is there a 10 yr warranty on the 37cdi?
I think so. All Worcester heat exchangers have 10y I think.
Great video. Done many over the years always a headache.
I couldn't be arsed TBH but it was where the issue was.
Awesome video mate, always enjoy these longer vids 👍🏻
I Wish i could do more. Its just too busy!
Great effort but now I'm older looks like a hard way to earn a crust lol would rather install a new boiler when I was young and keen I would have repaired it like you.keep up the good work enjoy watching your vids Regards Lee old school plumber
@@HeatingGeek Yes it is a hard game long hours and hard work and the work always comes at once done it from leaving school and dad was a plumber so I spend most hoilday helping him carrying the big red gas bottle working with lead and loads of barrel work which iv always enjoyed .I admire your enthusiasm on Jobs it can be frustrating repair work keep up the good work and hopefully you can retire soon and play golf all day lol
@@charliewillis8527 I don't plan to get golf bats any time soon. Thats for cabbies and swingers I think. (I cant play for shit)
Excellent video and well explained.
Thanks .:-)
Great video, some great tips! Your methodical approach serves you well repairing these boilers! Any chance you could upload the expansion vessel / pop rivet the case video as that would be interesting to see 👌
I have thought about that video a lot. I don't think I will do it as it could cause issues and complaints. I have replaced it several times that way but don't think Worcester would agree.
HeatingGeek yeah true, although judging by the above comment the worcester repair engineers do it the same way! Surely if it's pop riveted back on then it's a good job done 👌
@@Stillbusy105 you could put self tappers in because you know your be replacing it again when that 6 litre vessel goes again why manufacturers can put a 12 litre vessel in I never know so you don't need a second one
Thanks for the video and tips....
No problem! It's a difficult job but just take your time with it. ;_0
I have this same boiler with three terminals on the fan, two at one end of the coil and one at the other, (black/white/ red wires) can some kind soul, please advise which coloured wire goes to which terminal as, stupidly I disconnected it without noting the details.
Great vids man. I would feel remiss however if I didn't point out the CO2 reading was low at the end. should really be 6.7 or else the ratio is void. I had to do hundreds of these on my apprenticeship. The expansion vessel is a right beast. Now im self employed that bad boy becomes remote or the boiler is a goner!! once again top vids man. ( i especially liked you pointing out to clean the connections on the o rings. Wish i had seen this i learned the hard way!!)
What do you mean about the CO2? I don't follow. :-)
@@HeatingGeek in the instructions it has a co2 level to ensure the gas valve is correctly set. I believe on these ( if memory serves) its between 6-7 %. If the gas valve is set wrong the ratio becomes irrelevant as half is flawed. Hope I've explained that well. I've been up for two days straight with 4 month twins. Love the channel man. It's been really soothing to watch in my downtime.
@@spamuelllewellyn3950 Twins. :-) That's sleep-deprived. The burner pressure wasn't stable when I tested it so maybe that had something to do with it. I didn't know there was a co2 on these. :-0... I will remember to look at the MI's on the next one. :-) 4 months is when things start to settle down. Hopefully....
@@HeatingGeek thanks man!! And geez I hope so!!
well done mate. Just Brill
Great vid Ollie. Had to do one the other day helped me out brilliantly. That o ring on the flow is crap though. I don't think the spigot sticks out through far enough. Keep up the good vids mate.
The difficult bit is the size of the o rings is too similar. Its har to tell them apart, :-)
@@HeatingGeek I see what you mean 1 fell out as I took it out they used 2 one as a face seal. They should put that o ring in a separate packet or make it a different colour. Great boiler though pretty bulletproof.
@@peterbeck493 I agree. That's the only frustrating bit on them boilers.
Brilliant video 👍🏼
Excellent video once again. Keep it up.
Thanks. :-)
Great job👍🏼
I remember my first week being qualified i had to change the expansion vessel on one of these (didnt know the side panel trick either). It took all day to do as it wouldnt stop leaking and i spent that night wondering if id made a mistake becoming a gas man 😂
We have all had that thought. What a job to do in the first week!!!
A Worcester would do that to you. There is a great feeling though once you get them working and they are the boilers you'd be meticulous about everything when replacing parts you'd clean seating and grease O rings just because you don't want the whole hassle of taking it apart again. They say calm seas don't make skilled sailors and a Worcester boiler is a full-blown storm so get used to that and most other boilers are smooth sailing.
@@megaman1806 You're not wrong mate, that was a baptism of fire for me just starting out. I did get better at them though, like you said take your time, clean and grease everything, and then after all that you wouldnt get a leak on the diverter or any of the connections your touched. It would be the iso valves that leaked for no reason instead 😂
Thanks for this great video! Question please, how easy is it to replace the PRV? I see there is v little space between the top of the PRV and the side panel.
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
I've got an issue ....I bought a new duverter cartridge and I checked its the right 1 etc via model number . Its longer than the 1 that came out and although threads etc seem same . It won't allow it to go in due to the base plates /seals
Any help thanks
I have never had that problem. Did you order the correct part in a Worcester box?
@Oliver Gilcreest was a baxi part ..but it stayed the model 80he instant baxi. I'm currently in talks woth supplier.....the old was just a bit yucky I cleaned it up and lubed 4 now the spring seemed tidy etc...... emptied system water wasn't to bad tbh relatively clean ..... inhibitor back in and pressurised the heat exchanger I simply flushed woth a hose . It was dirty but free and once ran clear I was happy . Just need to get a 1000uf 50v capacitor Tom morning fir the pcb I've got a replacement pcb on order but its all cleaned up well so just needs a new capacitor...... Once I get that in it goes and can test the hot water function
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
I keep hearing about this powder flushing I can only guess it's a abrusive powder a bit like sand blasting .I do a lot of power flushing and allways do it hot and get good results but you will never totally clean the pipe like if you scrubbed it.what is your view on it do you think it could damage pipework and boiler components you can not buy these powders they have patent it like you I like to do the best job I can and am intreasted to know if it's as good as they say and maybe some one can make some think similar
Never don it and don't know anything about it. sounds interesting though.
Don't hav to take boiler off wall not how it's designed to be done. But is some times easier to do it that way if doing right way get right hand plastic manifold. Wbs hav that many o rings it's a nightmare
Are you in Kent as I want my boiler fixed
Can a plumber perform this task or would you need a gas safe engineer?
Excellent, very informative thanks for the video 👍👍👍👍
Thanks. :-)
Great effort! Pig of a diverter to change
Absolutely
I will be starting to replace these boilers soon as the housing association has a policy to fit condensing boilers to all their properties.
Just wondered if any of you guys have signed up to ATAG boilers and if so have you had any issues with them to date? I have fitted about 10 so far without any issues, they give you a 10 year warranty and are a quality bit of kit from what I can see, No composite plastic components and a quality in-house built stainless steel heat exchanger.
Would be interested to hear anyone else's views or experiences.
They seem like a very good company tbh. Met them at PHEX and they really know there stuff.
My local rep is an ex-installer and very knowledgeable...….certainly worth a look if you haven't considered them already. I am a long term Vaillant man but am being turned to Atag through issues with Vaillant Quality. The need to compete with the masses has changed their company ethos in my opinion, ……….they just want to sell more boilers!!!!!
I agree.
Hello heating geek. Just found your channel and must say I’m slightly envious of your knowledge at such a young age. Can I ask what case you have your analyser in?
Its in an old Testo case. Much better than anything Kane has at the moment. Unfortunately its falling apart and I have another one coming from the US which might work. If it does I will let you know.
I have the Testo case in part 3 of my tools video which I need to upload and will do once I pull my finger out. :-)
I wanted to learn and took the time on every job until I did. Every day I learn something new. It never
stops.
HeatingGeek great attitude!
@@simonstaines2953 Its true though.;-)
I know it is! I have the same attitude myself. So much to learn tho!!! Do you have any vids or advice on the basics of a boiler/heating system to get me started? I've only found the complex stuff of yours so far 😉
Hello sir How to change broken Heating Knob please
Hi mate top video but how do you combustion ? Is the point at flue ?
Some have a point on the flue. Its not required on this boiler though.
Not sure my crappy short term memory would remember where all them screws and clips came from lol.
top man, as always impressing vid, thanks
I think this is the last one of these I have done. Been a while
I have a problem with the pressure on this boiler. I get it to 1.5 bar and within a few hours it drops to 0.5 bar and stays steady at that pressure till i turn on the boiler. Do you think the diverter diaphragm is getting holed and the system pressure is keeping it at 0.5bar?
No, you have a simple problem that should be checked before it gets worse. The vessel on your boiler is flat.
How long would it take to replace a PRV on a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30si ? Am assuming the Hydraulic block needs to come out to get to the PRV.
It really depends. I have 3 different ways of doing that job. Some people will take the boiler off the wall for that job. :-)
Got a 24CDi, the hot water is piping hot regardless of what setting the control knob is set to, do you think it could be a fault with the PCB?
not sure, sorry
informative 👍🏽👍🏽. how long did u take to complete the job actually
1.5 hours with filming. Usually takes me about 80min start to finish.
Nice vid but probably easier and cheaper in the long run to put in a new more efficient boiler with a 7 year warranty.
Maybe. Maybe not. I wish I had a crystal ball. This is the best solution for this customer as they have insurance and it costs them very little to repair the boiler.
Good vid, i dont miss fixing these haha.. if im right the wrong o-ring fitted to the CH connection is the one for the PHX connection?
i thought so, but it wasn't. Who knows.
Great video. I thought that you had to remove the filling loop when you removed the heat exchanger but it seems like you don't, or did I miss that bit? :)
Not for the heat exchanger. ( i don't think) Just for the diverter.
Just watching your video I have a similar problem I have a 24 CDI with a water leak on the left-hand side just as you have just done the repair also there is a leak that I can't see where it's coming from on the right hand side not very much at all but are both there recently I've had another problem arise when you are running the hot water the radiators are getting hot upstairs and is taking some time for the hot water to reach the taps would this be the diaphragm in the diverter valve and have you come across this problem much appreciated A answer
It could be a few things. Get a pro out to have a look. Sounds like you have more than one issue.
Can you change the diaphragm on these in place or do you need to remove it all?
Im sure you need to remove them. I cant remember. Its been a long time!!!!
wow he put his whole tool set on there haha amazing
What?
@@HeatingGeek good to see what tools you been using
Is PRV easy to change on this
No too bad :-)
I have the same boiler as this.... Today its stopped working.... When I put the heating on the pilot fires up and we get heating but when I turn the hot tap the boiler does not respond.... No hot water.... What do you think the problem could be?.... Thermocouple or diverter valve?
There is no thermocouple on this boiler. Get an engineer out to have a look. Better safe than sorry.
Just noticed looking at your vid again that the plastic shroud is missing that normally covers the back of the PCB housing, that would not have helped in initially helping to save the PCB from becoming fried! ;)
That isn't on all of them as far as I know.
When I qualified , youtube didn't exist , I could still change one of these in less than 40 mins , did get the pcb wet first time I changed one though .
Me too. I was fitting these boilers and Solo 2/3. Also BBUs
Blimey Ollie you need a haircut😂 top job buddy that was coool. What a difference a thicker O ring can make.
Icut my own hair and sometimes get lazy. :-) Cant be bothered to waffle to myself about the weather and new parking restrictions on the high street.
How come you use an analyser on a boiler that predates that tech? Would you just not do a working, burner pressure test and rate it?
Analyser Is king to me. Its the best tool to find issues with safety. I use it on almost everything. I do avoid big Suprima's and things like Swiftflows though.
Did the bloke ever turn up with the 2nd board ?
no it wasn't needed.
cant beat a good bucket
Thats a proper bucket.
What I normally do with the front panel is get my snips, snip all the wires off and launch it out the front door along with the rest of it shortly after.
They are a great boiler and anything that replaces it won't last as long at it. But unfortunately, it is the end of most of them. :-)
Tbf I do agree with you. I applaud you for doing a diverter on one of them whilst filming and not swearing once. Really enjoy the vids, they have given me a renewed interest in fixing rather than replacing 👍🏼
@@Jody669 Thanks for watching them :-)
A magnetic plate for screws is good keeps them safe, few quid from car accessory shop😉
I use to use one. Its on a boiler somewhere....
Approximately how much money do plumbers charge to change the diverter valve? Myne needs changing and I dont know how much to expect
Everyones different. From £150 to £300. Per hour could be very expensive because things go wrong with this part.
Thjs must be one of the worst designed boilers ever and one of the reasons why I don't fit wocester if I can help it. Hate hate hate, loath entirely!
I ABSOLUTELY hate Worcester Boilers but they have a good reputation for some reason.
Feel you pain with these boilers! Whenever I go to a breakdown and see these, my thoughts are ffs lol
I like them. Not my favourite but I do like a challenge. :-)
Have you ever changed a DV on a Worchester 230 ? Happy days 😂
Yes and the plate/cylinder thing. :-)
How much do you charge for this? And do you work in London?
For what? Diverter valve replacement?
Most of my work is fixed price labour £120 at the moment but going to £150 soon. Plus the part.
How can I get hold of you if I want to sub you some work? As I normally say no to Worchesters and Aristons.
I will add some stuff to my videos soon so you can get in touch.
Some how you can because I get emails from people all the time who got my info from youtube. I don't know how though .
boilertechnical@gmail.com
what boiler would you choose looking at replacing mine
What ever the guy who will look after it thinks is best. Get a local guy and use him to recommend and he can look after it for the next 10-15 years. Its the best way. :-)
The old Worcester boilers you could repair with a knife and fork the new ones you need a computer and a degree in electronics
All new boiler are like that. Only getting more and more difficult to diagnose. Its as if the manufactures want all the work for them selfs
Good boiler shit design. New Worcesters are even worse, plastic hydraulics that are prone to leaking and razor sharp casings that make it lethal to work and dont get me started on the prv location 😂
You really need to get a proper torch.
I have a propper torch. :-)
Used to like fitting them, pre pipe it then slide the boiler on
Me too. First boiler I ever fitted. Second was Baxi solo 3.
HeatingGeek with the latches and safety pin, did loads of them too, dream to fit
Wouldn’t touch this boiler with a barge pole , absolutely worst designed boiler ever ...
Condemned one about a month ago ....🙈🙈
I don't mind fixing anything. :-)
I don't change these anymore
Nasty part...
Not much fun to replace. :-)
I've a Worcester Bosch 240 rsf, 23yr old. (1996) It's leaking from PVR and the fill loop. Just bought those parts wondering if I can squeeze some more life out of this baby. I think I could change fill loop but prv not really. Been a pretty reliable boiler really, fitted by British gas. Only changed a diverter valve (plumber) and, I changed a fan myself which was easy . I'm gonna squeeze hard. But will look at newun. Any one any view on a make ? As it lives in the inside part of a former coal shed, I think I'd need a soak away for the condense pipe. (If I got a newun that is) Which, will have to go through the coal shed and out.
I must admit my boiler although big compared to newer ones, looks cramped inside, doesn't look easy to work on, but I'm a layman so maybe talking bull.
Get some local guys to come out and look at your particular situation. Thats always the best way. :-)
@@HeatingGeek thanks
gazza listermint look at getting a viessmann boiler gazza nice boilers fitted loads and have one in my own house
how to replace anything on one of these now is to scrap it and get a new one
Great boilers except for the isolation valves. :-)
@smile 2192 ive been installing and diagnosing for 30 years.there comes a point when cost effectiveness and my time overcome old boilers.i always look at fixing firstly.but many times the long warranty and reliability of a new boiler using hind sight ends up being the best solution.this results in happy customers with boilers that dont break down every 5 minutes. you only get knowledge like this after visiting thousands of boilers of the years.
@@milkman100001 A Worcester CDi Rsf if looked after will out last any new boiler you fit. :-)
Don’t ask this guy a question he doesn’t answer you waste of time
I do.:-) Thanks fo watching.
If you answered my question I wouldn’t be saying you don’t
@@paulbond1666 I cant see, or find a question from you. :-) Sorry