Fantastic video.. had a Worcester engineer come look at my boiler, he took one look and refused to replace the diverter valve, ohh it’s too hard and will cause all kinds of leaks 🙁.. so watched this and done it myself.. hey presto no leaks and boiler is fully functional again.. thank you so much, self repaired for £92 , Worcester wanted £300.. brilliant informative video 👍10/10
Hi Robert was there a mesh filter on the inlet for the cold feed on the diverter valve when you took it out, as it shows one on the 35cdi instruction manual reason I ask is it doesn't get shown in the above video, or has this part been discarded now, some of the plumbing centers still stock them, hope you see this and reply, thanks.
@@daytona1944 hi , it is some time since I done the repair, and I don’t recall seeing a mesh filter, but I don’t want to say 💯 that there isn’t one, what I can tell you is I bought a new diverter valve which came with all new seals and rubber’s, so everything I needed came in one box, it took me a couple of hours to repair, and is still going strong with no issues at all.. I photographed everything in situ as I took it apart and used the pictures as reference when reassembling, I hope this helps, I know it’s not the answer you asked for but honestly I just can’t remember for sure..
@@robertdrummond5084 hi Robert, thanks for taking the time to reply, I had a so called plumber round to change the plate heat exchanger and he flooded the main PCB with water, to my dismay, l said that will now need replacing and he said it will be fine, he put everything back together and it worked for a week then the lights on the boiler started acting up and hot water on off again, funny that the lights on the boiler had never done that before getting wet so ordered a refurbished PCB £56 and hoped that might sort it, if not was going to do diverter valve , anyway the board came today fitted it and boiler working fine again, incidentally a new board costs around £320 so a big saving, if your still on the same boiler might be worth you getting a refurbed PCB as a spare just in case I'm ordering another as a spare, let me know and I'll tell you where I got mine from and delivered in two days so got heating and hot water back on over Christmas, anyway have a great Christmas and happy new year Robert, 👍😁
I had to exchange my diverter valve after we noticed that the boiler was not switching on when turning on the hot taps around the house. We had to open the hot water taps fully in order to get the boiler to ignite. After an online chat with a chap from Worcester-Bosch he advised to change de diverter valve, as the diaphragm was probably the cause as the boiler is now 16 years old. So after an online search I’ve found the part and watched this video. It’s a bit intimidating but after a few times watching it and checking all the bits in my boiler I went for it. I’m a merchant navy engineer so I’m not to afraid to tackle complicated tasks. The new diverter valve cost me £92 and came with all the necessary o-rings and gaskets ! Printed off the drawings with all the o-rings sizes so it was easier to identify where they should all go, which is VERY important !!! I also got a tube of the Molykote 111 o-ring grease, something I use a lot of on board ships equipment, brilliant stuff ! I isolated the heating and water inlet valves and started to disassemble all the parts. When it came to actually remove the diverter valve ....well...it wouldn’t budge ! It was well stuck on the main water inlet valve (sliding o-ring connection). Biggest screwdriver and leverage did not make it move. Had to isolate the main water supply into the house and undid the pipe connection on the water inlet valve. Fitted a spanner on the water inlet valve and started to give it a careful wiggle, which probably broke the years of lime scale build up, and pulled the old diverter valve at the same time. I noticed movement during pulling so I was now able to carefully pull it further until it popped out of the inlet valve ! As I had all the new o-ring I did exchange the o-ring inside the water inlet valve and around the central heating pipe connection on the left. Again carefully check the dimensions of the o-rings you are replacing ! And put plenty Molykote 111 grease on all o-rings before you reassemble all the parts. I did not use Teflon tape on the water inlet as I replaced the o-ring for new and gave the valve a good (scrape) clean by removing the lime scale first ! After careful reassembly I opened up all the water supplies and central heating isolating valves again, pressurised the central heating system (check your pressure vessel for air pressure, I’ve set mine to 1 bar). To my pleasant surprise everything was water tight ! I opened up the old diverter valve and did find general wear and tear on the nylon bushes and stainless steel sliding pins. The diaphragm was not leaking but was in bad condition and fairly stiff, something you would expected after 16 years on operation. So, many thanks for this video ! I’ve couldn’t have done it without it, it definitely gave me the confidence to do it myself and probably saved myself £300 in labour fees.
thanks, very useful. replaces one on my let property today after calling few local engineers who stated that they would not touch it as it is an old boiler and they could run into a lot of difficulties. However, you can still replace the DV without taking the electronic penal off, There is is still plenty of room.
I was sent to change this diverter valve 2 week ago. It was too intimidating! I had to gave excuses and ran away. I have no clue where to start. If I had found this video beforehand, I would be gave my best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Most of your videos on worcester boilers give me confidence to work on them.😀👍
Makes it look so easy, probably one of the most intimidating boilers, everything on these things leak with the slightest touch surprised you use isolation valves.
Hi Geoffrey, would like your advice please I have a 35cdi mkll, I had a plumber out couple of weeks ago to replace plate heat exchanger as I was getting intermittent hot water, central heating is fine, in the process of changing it he happened to flood the pcb with water, he put everything back together and it worked fine for 2 weeks but now doing the same again, hot then cold then hot again. Do you think that the water on the pcb could be causing this issue please also the diverter valve was changed by worcester bosch four years ago along with heat exchanger, expansion vessel, aav, pressure valve as well ,so even though the boiler is an old one its had lots of new parts and up to now been very good. Any advice please
Awesome guide thank you, few other posts said to swap out the Diaphragm with the valve in place, I tried but frankly could not get to the last screw lol, swapping the valve was easier 👍now have the old DV with a new Diamhram inside, any refurb tips? 😀
Why don't you change the dhw inlet o ring? PTFE on there looks terrible! Also, there's no way that flow manifold wouldn't leak after being disturbed. If there's one thing I've learnt from taking out these cdi dv's is change EVERY o ring, cause they'll leak from each one you don't! Terrible design on this boiler, thank goodness they aren't like this now!
Arran Shuker honestly mate I’ve done hundreds of these and you definitely do not change that oring it will leak like mad. I never used ptfe just cleaned the oring in situ and greased brass body of dv valve. Never had a problem doing it that way
Love your vids! Great tip about leaving flow manifold in place, the tube can be a swine to get back in. Why leave the back o ring and ptfe? Shabby design really for what should be a straight forward diaphragm swap.
Thanks for sharing mate, but these are an absolute nightmare of a boiler. Designed by an idiot. The composite gets so brittle in them, they’re not worth repairing........Get it on the grass & stick in a Baxi or Intergas.
Fantastic video.. had a Worcester engineer come look at my boiler, he took one look and refused to replace the diverter valve, ohh it’s too hard and will cause all kinds of leaks 🙁.. so watched this and done it myself.. hey presto no leaks and boiler is fully functional again.. thank you so much, self repaired for £92 , Worcester wanted £300.. brilliant informative video 👍10/10
Cool story bro
Hi Robert was there a mesh filter on the inlet for the cold feed on the diverter valve when you took it out, as it shows one on the 35cdi instruction manual reason I ask is it doesn't get shown in the above video, or has this part been discarded now, some of the plumbing centers still stock them, hope you see this and reply, thanks.
@@daytona1944 hi , it is some time since I done the repair, and I don’t recall seeing a mesh filter, but I don’t want to say 💯 that there isn’t one, what I can tell you is I bought a new diverter valve which came with all new seals and rubber’s, so everything I needed came in one box, it took me a couple of hours to repair, and is still going strong with no issues at all.. I photographed everything in situ as I took it apart and used the pictures as reference when reassembling, I hope this helps, I know it’s not the answer you asked for but honestly I just can’t remember for sure..
@@robertdrummond5084 hi Robert, thanks for taking the time to reply, I had a so called plumber round to change the plate heat exchanger and he flooded the main PCB with water, to my dismay, l said that will now need replacing and he said it will be fine, he put everything back together and it worked for a week then the lights on the boiler started acting up and hot water on off again, funny that the lights on the boiler had never done that before getting wet so ordered a refurbished PCB £56 and hoped that might sort it, if not was going to do diverter valve , anyway the board came today fitted it and boiler working fine again, incidentally a new board costs around £320 so a big saving, if your still on the same boiler might be worth you getting a refurbed PCB as a spare just in case I'm ordering another as a spare, let me know and I'll tell you where I got mine from and delivered in two days so got heating and hot water back on over Christmas, anyway have a great Christmas and happy new year Robert, 👍😁
I had to exchange my diverter valve after we noticed that the boiler was not switching on when turning on the hot taps around the house. We had to open the hot water taps fully in order to get the boiler to ignite. After an online chat with a chap from Worcester-Bosch he advised to change de diverter valve, as the diaphragm was probably the cause as the boiler is now 16 years old. So after an online search I’ve found the part and watched this video. It’s a bit intimidating but after a few times watching it and checking all the bits in my boiler I went for it. I’m a merchant navy engineer so I’m not to afraid to tackle complicated tasks. The new diverter valve cost me £92 and came with all the necessary o-rings and gaskets ! Printed off the drawings with all the o-rings sizes so it was easier to identify where they should all go, which is VERY important !!! I also got a tube of the Molykote 111 o-ring grease, something I use a lot of on board ships equipment, brilliant stuff ! I isolated the heating and water inlet valves and started to disassemble all the parts. When it came to actually remove the diverter valve ....well...it wouldn’t budge ! It was well stuck on the main water inlet valve (sliding o-ring connection). Biggest screwdriver and leverage did not make it move. Had to isolate the main water supply into the house and undid the pipe connection on the water inlet valve. Fitted a spanner on the water inlet valve and started to give it a careful wiggle, which probably broke the years of lime scale build up, and pulled the old diverter valve at the same time. I noticed movement during pulling so I was now able to carefully pull it further until it popped out of the inlet valve ! As I had all the new o-ring I did exchange the o-ring inside the water inlet valve and around the central heating pipe connection on the left. Again carefully check the dimensions of the o-rings you are replacing ! And put plenty Molykote 111 grease on all o-rings before you reassemble all the parts. I did not use Teflon tape on the water inlet as I replaced the o-ring for new and gave the valve a good (scrape) clean by removing the lime scale first ! After careful reassembly I opened up all the water supplies and central heating isolating valves again, pressurised the central heating system (check your pressure vessel for air pressure, I’ve set mine to 1 bar). To my pleasant surprise everything was water tight !
I opened up the old diverter valve and did find general wear and tear on the nylon bushes and stainless steel sliding pins. The diaphragm was not leaking but was in bad condition and fairly stiff, something you would expected after 16 years on operation.
So, many thanks for this video ! I’ve couldn’t have done it without it, it definitely gave me the confidence to do it myself and probably saved myself £300 in labour fees.
thanks, very useful. replaces one on my let property today after calling few local engineers who stated that they would not touch it as it is an old boiler and they could run into a lot of difficulties. However, you can still replace the DV without taking the electronic penal off, There is is still plenty of room.
Thanks Geoffrey. Today I’ve managed to replace my first diverter valve on a CDI. With your video it was really easy. Thanks again.
I was sent to change this diverter valve 2 week ago. It was too intimidating! I had to gave excuses and ran away. I have no clue where to start. If I had found this video beforehand, I would be gave my best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Most of your videos on worcester boilers give me confidence to work on them.😀👍
Brilliant tutorial, many thanks Geoffrey. a truely bullet proof bolier in its day , was the cdi range -)
Makes it look so easy, probably one of the most intimidating boilers, everything on these things leak with the slightest touch surprised you use isolation valves.
Fantastic 👍👍 especially music change on WD40.. brilliantly done
Great vid thank you also very brave going anywhere near them isolations under the boiler 😬
Great tutorial mate, I haven’t worked on one for a while so as a refresher, brilliant 👍
Great video, very helpful.
Didn’t fancy the job but after watching took it on and went well. 2 hours in a loft in July isn’t fun though.
Spot on video! Done my first diverter change on this the other day and went like a dream!
Another top video! My tip is put your phone on Airplane mode whilst performing this open heart surgery on a CDI
Got my first one to do tomorrow.. brilliant tutorial
Thanks for the post! Nicely done
Top quality 👏👏👏 lovin the playlist 😎
Hi Geoffrey, would like your advice please I have a 35cdi mkll, I had a plumber out couple of weeks ago to replace plate heat exchanger as I was getting intermittent hot water, central heating is fine, in the process of changing it he happened to flood the pcb with water, he put everything back together and it worked fine for 2 weeks but now doing the same again, hot then cold then hot again. Do you think that the water on the pcb could be causing this issue please also the diverter valve was changed by worcester bosch four years ago along with heat exchanger, expansion vessel, aav, pressure valve as well ,so even though the boiler is an old one its had lots of new parts and up to now been very good.
Any advice please
Great video thanks 👍👍👍👍
Awesome guide thank you, few other posts said to swap out the Diaphragm with the valve in place, I tried but frankly could not get to the last screw lol, swapping the valve was easier 👍now have the old DV with a new Diamhram inside, any refurb tips? 😀
Excellent job 👏👏👏
I remember when I was a lad. Boilers had brass manifolds and part. Now its call that plastic.
What is N N Y image that comes up on the o rings ?
Good video,keep it up Geoff...
Done one today great vid
Why don't you change the dhw inlet o ring? PTFE on there looks terrible! Also, there's no way that flow manifold wouldn't leak after being disturbed. If there's one thing I've learnt from taking out these cdi dv's is change EVERY o ring, cause they'll leak from each one you don't! Terrible design on this boiler, thank goodness they aren't like this now!
Arran Shuker honestly mate I’ve done hundreds of these and you definitely do not change that oring it will leak like mad. I never used ptfe just cleaned the oring in situ and greased brass body of dv valve. Never had a problem doing it that way
Amazing ....
What are you use gel???
Love your vids! Great tip about leaving flow manifold in place, the tube can be a swine to get back in. Why leave the back o ring and ptfe? Shabby design really for what should be a straight forward diaphragm swap.
Looks like a ball ache to do 👍
I think Geoffrey needs training. PTFE tape no no
Thanks for sharing mate, but these are an absolute nightmare of a boiler. Designed by an idiot. The composite gets so brittle in them, they’re not worth repairing........Get it on the grass & stick in a Baxi or Intergas.
Are you ex-Worcester by any chance?
JUST SHOWING THE LOVE
Awful awful music wtf!!!!