I’m returning to the hobby after a few years. I’m retired now,and have the time. I was so happy to see your tutorial videos going strong. I binge watched many of your older videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Keep in mind that pretty much every movable part and large mechanical component on a vehicle would heavily oiled / lubricated at their connection points (at least vehicles using "real life logic"). This lubrication will often build up over time into a patina/layer of gunk and dust at ex. the lip of a piston seal, especially in conditions that are "off-road". Slapping a darkish brown-yellow ink on these areas and/or streaking some brown lines along the movement axis of the part is usually a really nice to way simulate that happening. For tracked vehicles, applying a wash onto the tracks with a thinned down paint of the same color as the ground they're driving across is usually also a good way of making it look like there's some gunk and dust in-between the links and rollers of the track unit. Once dry, give the tracks a quick drybrush or sponging of their own highlight color to show that some of that gunk has been rubbed/shaken off again,
I'm a fan of a silver paint pen. It makes it easy to speckle or edge wear points. It's also a good idea to look at how the model should function - pick out joints and pistons etc and bring them to bare or worn metal. I also add like a balck wash to simulated oil leaks/spills or grease. I also like to do some parts in new/ different colors to show replacement parts like new armor plates, or perishables like magazines or missiles/ missile racks. (it would be rare for replaceable parts to match)
Construction equipment, and old factories - great places to find inspiration for telling stories, these things have worked hard and are built to survive being mistreated. Love seeing new techniques for weathering, thanks Atom!
As well as taking your time about weathering. Do a selection of scratches in the paint, and then set the model aside for a day, and come back to it for another set of scratches -- they wouldn't have all been acquired at the same time, and starting afresh for another set of scratches makes it easier to show the vehicle as having been beaten up over time.
I prefer the 2 tone chipping. First use foam or a brush (I prefer a brush) with the highest highlight colour. After this, and brush only, I fill in interior of the bigger chipps with a dark metallic colour, uselly Vallejo metal color series gunmetal grey. After this and in some points I uselly apply streaking rust enamel paint for some rust streaking... The chipping looks more deeper and tridimensional. As always thank you uncle Adam for this process!
While we’re on the topic of edge highlighting, a Gundam kit is a really cheap way to get scale miles of edges to highlight and you can get them less than $20. They also look great when weathered up and detailed.
Have you ever tried the technique of oil dotting for the colour variation as a substitute for finding the slightly lighter colour and sponging it on? You take a couple colours, say black/dark umber, a white/ivory, and maybe an ochre in oils and place tiny little dots around the surface and then with a different brush messily mottle the dots away. It gives your surface a wonderully varied and weathered look without too much "skill/technique needed" because you just mottle it all around until you're satisfied. I've seen you use oils for washes and stuff before!
The battleworn look is awesome for sure. I like that a lot. I also like that classic plastic army men look and feel. I kinda want to get extras of my favorite unpainted miniatures and make some look super realistic and paint another in solid green and another in solid tan. Ya know what I mean? Like I keep thinking about a Warhammer 40K Razorback in classic plastic army green. Just an idea going around in my head.
Another tip from Nightshift ("Blending Washes And Oil Dots" vid): put tiny drops of oil paints all over the panels and spread them with a brush. That will break up the monotone color.
I used to really like the idea of salt and hairspray chipping and chipping mediums, but over time i feel like just a piece of sponge is easier, quicker and with less hassle for similar results, maybe better even as you can control where the effects happen unlike with those methods. Also obligatory every time Skeleton Horde is mentioned for anything not using it as a paint: The sepia wash is the exact same color for much cheaper, so if you don't need the Contrast magic properties try the sepia wash and see if it's enough for your use, i suspect for this it'll do well enough.
I find Seraphim Sepia is more transparent than Skeleton Horde, so if I want one coat and done for my rust spots, I’ll stick with my Skeleton Horde. Thanks for watching!
It's good to focus the chipping effects around spots on the model that would get the most wear. Hard edges, protruding parts, and generally places where stuff bangs into it a lot. On a robot, this might be on the legs or arms. Obviously, any spot can get paint chipped due to battle damage. Moreover, spots where paint gets knocked off will also be spots where _rust_ gets knocked off. So on the hardest edges where the model sees the most action, the rust will surround obvious points of fresh metal. Pistons, by the way, should always be fully metallic, due to all the rubbing together they do. Doesn't have a chance to develop rust.
Well pistons do often get a bit gunky on the bit that doesn't go inside the cylinder due to lubrication. Even if most lubrication is rubbed off at the seal, the rod still often comes out a bit "moist" and will pickup dust which then is slammed right back onto the seal, dragged back along the piston as it retracts etc. So not necessarily fully metallic (I'd slap some grease-streaks on them) but definitely not rusty.
Funny, I've been weathering a Chaos Rhino on my Twitch channel the last week and a half, talked through many of these processes. Great minds, evidently, think alike, though mine isn't so great, I think.
Great stuff as always. Timely for me as I am about to dive into gaslands conversations. I do D&D minis generally, so the metal/mechanical way of thinking is… not a often used muscle. *salute*
My problem with the weathering jobs I constantly see is people go way way too far. I was in the United States Marines and they are known for having the most beat-up vehicles in the services. The amount of rust you put on this big Stompy robot says to me just pulled out of the junkyard for an emergency or a unit that just doesn't give a damn anymore. Professional military units schedule maintenance times and that's when problems like scratches and missing paint are addressed barring much more complicated problems.
If I was doing a scale model for a diorama or something, I’d totally agree with you. But, for painting tabletop models, sometimes I like to over-accentuate not just with highlights and shadows, but with weathering, too. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions I almost exclusively paint for the tabletop. I'm just saying that for me the level of distress is way over-the-top in most paint jobs that I see. To the extent of making them look like the old Mark fours on the Golan Heights that have sat there for more than 60 years.
Rather than silver paint for your edge highlighting, try a #2 pencil. It's an old scale modeler's trick ( from an old scale modeler). It's easier to do and cheaper than paint.
Excellent Mech, will have a butcher's at sponsor. Demystifying techniques is definitely your strong suit. Made it simple, way to remember, not at all frightening. Saved this one.
My rule of thumb when it comes to weathering is when I wonder if I should add more of a process: stop immediately. You can always reevaluate later, but it’s often nigh on impossible to walk it back
Love this tutorial! Will look to implement some of this on upcoming tanks! Quick question, have you ever used Dirty Down Rust paint? Would love to see you try and review it!
I am going to try some Spungy stuff comming up here but I want to use it to simulate the random patterns found on some biological organisms on some Tyranid Carapace. I have never painted a tyranid before and I am excited to see how I can make this work. I've got an entire Kill team Plus an entire Space Hulk to paint. Its my excuse to finally get paint on my space hulk hahaha
Do you use a sepia or black wash in recesses or shadows? I usually use a sand color wash for dust on the lower parts of vehicles. Have you used that as well?
So the silver sponge step.. I would use a black paint instead and then go over with my smallest brush and dot a bit of silver into the larger patches. Most tanks have a primer and when they are damaged that primer shows. The silver would only really show up on very large and very recent damage.
Hey Uncle Atom! I’ve been watching your videos for a while and I’m actually working on launching my own tabletop wargame through MMF! I would like to sponsor one of your future videos! How do I go about doing that?
The trick with water under the contrast paint is really smart!
I like big bots and I cannot lie
🥳🥳😂😂😂
Sir mechs a lot
I'm only gonna say this once, BOOYAH! - Qoute: Cyborg of The Teen Titans
I’m returning to the hobby after a few years. I’m retired now,and have the time. I was so happy to see your tutorial videos going strong. I binge watched many of your older videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Keep in mind that pretty much every movable part and large mechanical component on a vehicle would heavily oiled / lubricated at their connection points (at least vehicles using "real life logic").
This lubrication will often build up over time into a patina/layer of gunk and dust at ex. the lip of a piston seal, especially in conditions that are "off-road".
Slapping a darkish brown-yellow ink on these areas and/or streaking some brown lines along the movement axis of the part is usually a really nice to way simulate that happening.
For tracked vehicles, applying a wash onto the tracks with a thinned down paint of the same color as the ground they're driving across is usually also a good way of making it look like there's some gunk and dust in-between the links and rollers of the track unit.
Once dry, give the tracks a quick drybrush or sponging of their own highlight color to show that some of that gunk has been rubbed/shaken off again,
I'm a fan of a silver paint pen. It makes it easy to speckle or edge wear points.
It's also a good idea to look at how the model should function - pick out joints and pistons etc and bring them to bare or worn metal. I also add like a balck wash to simulated oil leaks/spills or grease. I also like to do some parts in new/ different colors to show replacement parts like new armor plates, or perishables like magazines or missiles/ missile racks. (it would be rare for replaceable parts to match)
Construction equipment, and old factories - great places to find inspiration for telling stories, these things have worked hard and are built to survive being mistreated.
Love seeing new techniques for weathering, thanks Atom!
Arch-villain stuff is awesome!
Thanks for going over this. At some point I may slow down for a more detailed project.
I love the hobby related videos. Good to see that you apply the plastic model chip technic, other warhammer painters videos looks all the same.
The mech looks great! Glad it survived that fall with no noticeable damage (after a bit of glue).
I build lots of scale tanks. Air Brush and hairspray work great for base weathering. Then lots of washes and pigments to top it off.
As well as taking your time about weathering. Do a selection of scratches in the paint, and then set the model aside for a day, and come back to it for another set of scratches -- they wouldn't have all been acquired at the same time, and starting afresh for another set of scratches makes it easier to show the vehicle as having been beaten up over time.
this will definitely help once I start painting some Dreadnoughts or vehicles. very enlightening and knowledgeable thank you!
I prefer the 2 tone chipping. First use foam or a brush (I prefer a brush) with the highest highlight colour. After this, and brush only, I fill in interior of the bigger chipps with a dark metallic colour, uselly Vallejo metal color series gunmetal grey. After this and in some points I uselly apply streaking rust enamel paint for some rust streaking... The chipping looks more deeper and tridimensional. As always thank you uncle Adam for this process!
While we’re on the topic of edge highlighting, a Gundam kit is a really cheap way to get scale miles of edges to highlight and you can get them less than $20. They also look great when weathered up and detailed.
Have you ever tried the technique of oil dotting for the colour variation as a substitute for finding the slightly lighter colour and sponging it on? You take a couple colours, say black/dark umber, a white/ivory, and maybe an ochre in oils and place tiny little dots around the surface and then with a different brush messily mottle the dots away. It gives your surface a wonderully varied and weathered look without too much "skill/technique needed" because you just mottle it all around until you're satisfied. I've seen you use oils for washes and stuff before!
Perfect for my big Tau robots! Thank you!
Great video! This one was a good watch for me, as I’m slowly getting into Konflikt ‘47 and I want to make my tanks and other vehicles look battleworn.
The battleworn look is awesome for sure. I like that a lot. I also like that classic plastic army men look and feel. I kinda want to get extras of my favorite unpainted miniatures and make some look super realistic and paint another in solid green and another in solid tan. Ya know what I mean? Like I keep thinking about a Warhammer 40K Razorback in classic plastic army green. Just an idea going around in my head.
10:22 This is a premium tip for any kind of glazing
If I ever get back to collecting and playing with armies, this will be enormously useful.
Another tip from Nightshift ("Blending Washes And Oil Dots" vid): put tiny drops of oil paints all over the panels and spread them with a brush. That will break up the monotone color.
I used to really like the idea of salt and hairspray chipping and chipping mediums, but over time i feel like just a piece of sponge is easier, quicker and with less hassle for similar results, maybe better even as you can control where the effects happen unlike with those methods.
Also obligatory every time Skeleton Horde is mentioned for anything not using it as a paint: The sepia wash is the exact same color for much cheaper, so if you don't need the Contrast magic properties try the sepia wash and see if it's enough for your use, i suspect for this it'll do well enough.
I find Seraphim Sepia is more transparent than Skeleton Horde, so if I want one coat and done for my rust spots, I’ll stick with my Skeleton Horde. Thanks for watching!
I plan on making a "rediscovered and reactivated" Tau army soon, so this timing is incredible
Very nice tips. I love these painting basic tutorials
Nice Video i do like the water tip will be trying that on my hover tank..cheers
It's good to focus the chipping effects around spots on the model that would get the most wear. Hard edges, protruding parts, and generally places where stuff bangs into it a lot. On a robot, this might be on the legs or arms. Obviously, any spot can get paint chipped due to battle damage. Moreover, spots where paint gets knocked off will also be spots where _rust_ gets knocked off. So on the hardest edges where the model sees the most action, the rust will surround obvious points of fresh metal.
Pistons, by the way, should always be fully metallic, due to all the rubbing together they do. Doesn't have a chance to develop rust.
Yes, I painted the hydraulic pistols after I had done all my weathering. Made them bright silver. Thanks for watching!
Well pistons do often get a bit gunky on the bit that doesn't go inside the cylinder due to lubrication. Even if most lubrication is rubbed off at the seal, the rod still often comes out a bit "moist" and will pickup dust which then is slammed right back onto the seal, dragged back along the piston as it retracts etc.
So not necessarily fully metallic (I'd slap some grease-streaks on them) but definitely not rusty.
Funny, I've been weathering a Chaos Rhino on my Twitch channel the last week and a half, talked through many of these processes. Great minds, evidently, think alike, though mine isn't so great, I think.
Great stuff as always. Timely for me as I am about to dive into gaslands conversations. I do D&D minis generally, so the metal/mechanical way of thinking is… not a often used muscle. *salute*
Thanks for all the numerous simple tricks. Keep it coming❤
It's always nice to catch your fresh videos, sir Smasher ✌️
Ohhh.. I'm definitely gonna try a quick Steel Rift crew with this method.. Intrigued at how fast this might work
My problem with the weathering jobs I constantly see is people go way way too far. I was in the United States Marines and they are known for having the most beat-up vehicles in the services. The amount of rust you put on this big Stompy robot says to me just pulled out of the junkyard for an emergency or a unit that just doesn't give a damn anymore. Professional military units schedule maintenance times and that's when problems like scratches and missing paint are addressed barring much more complicated problems.
If I was doing a scale model for a diorama or something, I’d totally agree with you. But, for painting tabletop models, sometimes I like to over-accentuate not just with highlights and shadows, but with weathering, too. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions I almost exclusively paint for the tabletop. I'm just saying that for me the level of distress is way over-the-top in most paint jobs that I see. To the extent of making them look like the old Mark fours on the Golan Heights that have sat there for more than 60 years.
Rather than silver paint for your edge highlighting, try a #2 pencil. It's an old scale modeler's trick ( from an old scale modeler). It's easier to do and cheaper than paint.
Excellent Mech, will have a butcher's at sponsor. Demystifying techniques is definitely your strong suit. Made it simple, way to remember, not at all frightening. Saved this one.
Thank you for the informative video! I'm still learning how to paint miniatures.
When it comes to fresh chips on armour I have found that Vallejo Air black metallic & Vallejo Air Steel metallic works well for me.
This is a GREAT video. Thank you, Adam!
My rule of thumb when it comes to weathering is when I wonder if I should add more of a process: stop immediately. You can always reevaluate later, but it’s often nigh on impossible to walk it back
Great video, super helpful! Thank you!
Your sponsored videos are among the most tastefully done that I have seen. Well done.
I appreciate it. It’s a conscious effort. Thanks for watching!
Backhoe. Shows a picture of an excavator. 😂 thanks for the video. I like my paint job. But scared to mess it up with bad weathering and highlights.
Uncle Adam advice of the week Feb 17th 2023: ROTATE THE FOAM.
Keep your foam on a swivel. Thanks for watching!
Watches video, wishes there was a video of my man just naming construction equipment!
Great video
Just got into battletech. This is very helpful
That is one cool model. The silver should be used very sparingly, as it would only be very recent damage that hasn't rusted yet.
Literally see these models advertised all the time on instagram
Nice video and nice looking model.
Love this tutorial! Will look to implement some of this on upcoming tanks!
Quick question, have you ever used Dirty Down Rust paint? Would love to see you try and review it!
"Entropy is a hell of a thing" ah, we are starting nice and breezy today.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
I am going to try some Spungy stuff comming up here but I want to use it to simulate the random patterns found on some biological organisms on some Tyranid Carapace. I have never painted a tyranid before and I am excited to see how I can make this work. I've got an entire Kill team Plus an entire Space Hulk to paint. Its my excuse to finally get paint on my space hulk hahaha
thank you for your verry helpful videos!
I'm gonna try this. I play guard cause I like normal dudes but I hate painting vehicles.
Do you use a sepia or black wash in recesses or shadows? I usually use a sand color wash for dust on the lower parts of vehicles. Have you used that as well?
Uncle, have you ever built Gunpla? I feel like you'd get really into it if you enjoy weathering like this.
Awesome!
Would love to hear your ideas on starships
Is the Monument Pro Acryl Coal Black a match for the P3 Coal Black?
Honestly I'd rather not know how Nurgle players " weather" their models thank you very much!
when do you do your weathering? afrer you done your first base layer or after the wash or later??
Also now and then add a newer panel that has been replaced.
CONSTRUCTICONS UNITE! MERGE FOR THE KILL!
:transformation sfx:
Devastator: PREPARE FOR EXTERMINATION!
Have you ever considered weathering Gunpla?
I still can't go past using ground-up pastels.
So the silver sponge step.. I would use a black paint instead and then go over with my smallest brush and dot a bit of silver into the larger patches. Most tanks have a primer and when they are damaged that primer shows. The silver would only really show up on very large and very recent damage.
Helps sell the scale better too..
Hey Uncle Atom! I’ve been watching your videos for a while and I’m actually working on launching my own tabletop wargame through MMF! I would like to sponsor one of your future videos! How do I go about doing that?
Uncle Atom => Grunge Guru
Entropy vs Necron living metal... 🤔
The new Necron Warrior models are sculpted as pretty beat up, so there must be something to it. Thanks for watching!
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