I've been shooting Championship football for several years but always interesting to see what other shooters have set. Mostly the same just different sensitivity settings
I take my DSLR to the British Touring Car Championship BTCC... I just set the shutter to 1/640 and have the ISO set at around 320/400 if I have enough light... Higher ISO if the light is not so good... My Nikon D7500 is still clean and "Noise-free" even at ISO 3200 and shoot it in RAW I can make ALL the adjustments to white balance/contrast/brightness/sharpness etc in photoshop when I get home. I have shot the image in RAW so can change pretty much everything in photoshop when I get home. It seems to work well enough. Thank you for this video, Mark.
Those setting are wonderful! I tried them yesterday on my Canon R7 for a Baseball tournament and hands down some of the best shots ive captured this year with minimal editing.
Bought myself a monopod this week after watching you using one in your videos. I shoot wildlife and tend to move around quite a bit, so a tripod is far too cumbersome. Absolutely loved using the monopod on a shoot today. Definitely noticed that more of my shots were sharp.
Only just found this whilst searching for night floodlighting football photography. Many thanks for the information I shall try to change my settings on my Sony A7lll. A challenge with so many different settings.
I recently got my 7dmk2 and i didn't know that there is such an option for secendary settings. This is very good for motorsport also. I can take some shots with high shutter speed and quickly change to panning settings. Thank you very much!
Agree with the majority of your settings. My biggest issue is metering settings especially for pics of managers. Using evaluative the managers faces are often way underexposed. However using partial metering it seems to work much better. Was shooting directly into the sun yesterday for a full game and it was a nightmare. One team in black shirts, the other in mostly white. Head was fried after the 90 minutes were up. I never use a monopod. Shoot hand-held with Canon 200-400 and 1dx mkiii.
Thanks for watching David. Regarding managers, I always tend to pop the exposure compensation down two or three stops, fire an image or two off, doublecheck it and then spend five minutes trying to get some action from the managers. Nothing worse than a half sun half shaded pitch though, know where you are coming from there👍🏻
@@MarkKerton many thanks Mark. Yes managers can provide more action than the players at times. You generally know which managers are most excitable. Its all good until they realise you're taking their picture and they glare at you. lol
Thanks Mark, informative as ever and very useful. I’ll try that f5 on the 70-200 next time, providing we keep some sun, lol. Love the double settings function. I was looking for a quick way of doing that on my d500 recently but can’t find a way to set the settings I want. It’s a rookie mistake but I’ve slowed ss and upped f at half time to get portrait shots of crowd and mgmt but then forgotten to reset at the restart! A button for an alternative set would save me, but really I just have to pay more attention, lol. I love BBF now, but couldn’t get it on my first camera because the af on button was quite low and had a collar. Newer bodies had more pronounced af on button and found it much easier. Cheers
I thought I was the only person who preferred f5.0 and Auto ISO. Too many photographers claim that going "fully" manual is the best but you spend more time correcting exposure in post production. I also see no advantage to using back button focus because keeping my finger on the shutter release is easy to do
Thank you. I'm a Nikon shooter and mainly african wildlife when I can. In photography there is little difference between the top end Nikon and Canons. I just invested heavily in glass over the last 50 years and did not jump ship back in 2015/16 when I last upgraded my long glass. AutoIso is a BIG winner for me too. Yes some BIF guys hate it - but for me it is a saviour. I use Matrix Exposure with Highlight Priority (protection), similar to evaluative, and like you Exposure Comp as necessary. Always set White Balance to Cloudy (6000k) when outside and fix this later - if needed. How about shooting under the lights or indoors -- you use white balance shift -vs- a reference card/expodisc. I too think purist Back-button focussing is like wearing a hair shirt. I typically focus using Group Focus, but can press a button to select spot mode. Eyes being particularly important. One of the key differences between Nikon and Cannon is AF-tracking -- good to see your settings. From what you said - you do not auto send from the camera to the desk - your path is via a card reader and laptop - so presumably using JPG is a speed of exporting issue, even though you could take in RAW and export as JPG. Many of the other sports shoots seem to shoot only in JPG - whereas I always shoot RAW to have more choices.
Thanks for watching and Cummington Andy. We do send straight off the back of the camera and so shooting in JPEG is pretty vital for that. I have always shot sport in JPEG as a rule. Most clients only print at 72 DPI so quality isn’t really an issue I know what you mean now about shooting in raw and having a much better choice of quality to edit with. Obviously I always shoot in raw for my landscapes and Woodlands so that I can alter the tones and have a good control over the image. I’m not sure how shooting in raw for sport would affect the buffering? I do have pretty fast CompactFlash cards but not sure they would cope with the bigger file size when shooting a burst of 10 or 12 images. Also, the downloading time is increased with the rules to. Thanks again for your comment Andy and appreciate your support on the channel👍🏻
Just coming across your videos Mark, and I find them interesting. I photo cover for media as well. While in sports photography, we all have our styles, but I am one who tries alternative ways to see if I can adapt to the improvements. One of our differences is you do not use the back button for focusing. While it took me a bit to remember to use my thumb, rather than a half-press of the shutter to focus, I found the back focusing to be much more effective, For example, like in landscape photography, I can target focus an object, like a flower, at the center of my viewfinder, press the back button to focus and let go, then I can offset the view of the camera to the side and snap the image without losing focus of the flower as when framing for the rule of thirds. For sports photography, the back button does take conscious practice, for, at times, I have to let go of the back button to push the button again when I want to follow the action in a new focus plane, especially if the Case Setting for tracking is at -2, even at -1, otherwise the camera is dragging on to the past session. BTW, I use the same collapsable stool, as if getting set to milk cows. Haha. Keep up the good work and your videos!
Thanks for watching John, really appreciate that. I think I will have another go at the back button as it would be handy for offsetting focusing, especially when referees are handing out cards or what have you. I need to practice the back button away from work really so that there is less pressure to get it right! I would be lost without my minimax tall, they are great aren’t they. Thanks again for your comment John, catch up soon👍🏻
Top stuff as always. Thanks Mark. With my 1DX iii I use the provided wire or WiFi to transfer the images. What am I missing not having a card reader please?
Thanks very much for this. I've just started shooting football and I'm finding your content a real inspiration. I bought a second had 70-200 the other day and was pretty gutted because the image was always quite soft at 2.8... until I've watched this. I didn't even know my 6DII had the settings you spoke about here. I've just been shooting in my bedroom under really poor light and it is focusing a treat and everything is coming out sharp :-) Cheers
Very interesting video! Started to shoot some pics for my hometown club! Very nice to learn stuff from a professional! Keep up the great work! Greetings from Germany!
League 2 iso 6400 under lights would be a dream but not at my club! Maybe at some of the teams that have been in the Championship/Premier League before, but iso 16000-25000 at one end of Brunton Park for me and that’s at 1/1600. I shoot Sony A9 70-200 2.8 / Nikon D5 400 2.8 and use very similar settings to you in all the other camera settings. It was interesting to hear how you set up and compare thoughts. Cheers.
@@MarkKerton yes Mark I’ll be visiting that shutter territory on Tuesday night as well. It’s the only way but it is amazing what modern kit can capture compared to the days of Fuji film 1600👍🏻.
Thanks Mark, really enjoy your videos! I have the 1Dxii. Is there any way, in the Custom Controls, to switch between Single Shooting and High Speed Continuous shooting?
another good video once again Mark, cheers. like you have problems using back button focus, I seem to have problems with using a supertele as well as my 70-200 at games..whether my technique is all wrong, or I simply cant rest it easily while switching, Im not sure, but would love to get into it properly..have a good weekend.
Hey Mark. Love your channel sir. Question around the settings... i'm assuming those were primarily for Daytime games. Can you describe the differences between what you do for day and night games. You spoke about it casually, but not from the perspective of shutter speed or approaching night games in general. Thanks,
@@MarkKerton thanks for the reply, yes it is all very similar and it helps so much. If you get chance to do a video on how best to sort and store all your pictures would be appreciated, mine are all mixed up.
Hi Mark great video I shot a lot of Championship rugby, I have 3 Cannon's Eos 1D MKiii do know if it has a IOS auto I looked but can find it. I shot on av mode but I going to try your setting on M. Also have you done video on how you edit your photos in Lightroom.
Thanks Brian. I presume the Mach 3 has auto iso-? It should be setting down from 100 when you scroll through. I don’t really use Lightroom an awful lot, I tend to edit in photo shop. I did film a few photo shop videos last year during lockdown, hopefully one of them may help you out
Excellent video. Thanks for all the tips. Interesting that you don't use Back Button Focus. I thought it was a game changer for me. Good luck with the upcoming games.
Great video! I'll be trying out your settings this week. One question I am having is about Extenders. Do you use them? If so, what are your pros and cons? I currently just have a Canon 70-200 2.8 IS 2 USM. Maybe you've discussed this topic in another video and replying with a link to that would be a sufficient answer. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Heston. Yes, are use extend is quite a bit, especially on the 300 at the moment. All you really need to do is pop the picture to around F8 or F10, just to keep your subject nice and sharp. Other than that, the only thing you need to think about is lighting. On a poorly lit dull day you probably won’t get away with using an extender without creating some noise in your images so just be aware of that. Hope that helps mate
Just come across your RUclips channel. I shoot Wessex League and Southern for my local paper New Milton Advertiser and Lymington Times. When I started, I was told not to bother with evening games, due to poorer light. I use a Nikon D5. 1000 sutter 2.8f and generally 12800 to 20000 ISO, but try not to go above 16000 for print. Paper dose help with expenses, as I've been doing it for a good while. I know a lot of papers only pay with a name credit, and no money, so I refuse them to print pictures. Virtually all my local grounds have now LED lighting, which makes things easier. I used to have a football league DATACO licence, but now non league takes up Saturday and Tuesday night games. Always to see how other snappers work. Have got an earlier Nikon 400, and 70-200 2.8, but for general daylit games I use an 80-400 all in one lens, as Wessex League rules say "No snappers Pitchside", due to a player being injured by a snapper, and neither having the all important Insurance. Insurance is just about as important as the kit one uses, I feel, and a lot of places will not allow to photograph without insurance. Yes mine is for £5 million public liability to cover most things. Also certificate is laminated in kit bag.
New Milton, I recently moved from Milford, small world! Did enjoy my time shooting non league when I first started out, so friendly to work with. Little money in it and defo shot it for the love of it! 5mil liability is about the norm nowadays👍🏻 Good call to keep it in your bag, you just never know! Thanks for watching anyway and keep up the snapping👍🏻
Hello, I really like your videos. I have a question . Can I use the same settings for the ice hockey photo? I have a canon 7dII with a canon 70/200 f2.8 lens.
Isn't it odd that you can use af-on to pan blur but not af? Essentially the exact same technique! Lol I have to spin my 300 round to sit on my shoulder just because of the difference in foot. There's not enough behind the foot to rest it on my shoulder so I spin it round and sit the lens on my shoulder. If you put the card readers nearer the hinge and at the side that might stop it drooping as much?
Thanks for watching Barry. Very true about the back button focus, a very similar technique but I am just so used to my index finger operation now I keep giving up after 10 minutes because I’m afraid of missing some action by not pressing the AF button and forgetting! Good point on the position of the card readers. Think putting the CF express reader on the top of the laptop has just altered the weight that bit too much! I might have to give that a try👍🏻
Of course I just like to watch your videos but sometimes I get a pearl. One time about a year ago you used a collapsable stool, I purchased one and use it frequently. And in this video, about where on the foot of the lens you screw in the monopod. I generally mount the lens and camera then suspend it upside down and see where it balances with a finger used as a fulcrum then use the closest hole. But then when walking the sidelines with camera and monopod over my shoulder it always felt uncontrolled. Now, using your method I can mount the monopod where one side will be heavier and stay put on my shoulder when shooting or moving. Does that make sense? Here in Florida, the "sunshine state", I leave my WB on sunny....my attempt at humor. thank Mark. See you in the next video
Thanks for watching Ted, appreciate your kind words. So pleased that it helped you to get the monopod set up better. Hopefully it will make your shooting that bit more comfortable👍🏻
Thanks for watching John. Yes, I’ve done a lot of horseracing, mainly point points. Are used to have a marquee in the box area and sell prints to owners and jockeys, really enjoyed that. Family very similar settings yes hi shutter speed and big apertures to make the horses stand out against the backdrop. Most action subjects require the same sort of settings. Guessing you photograph a lot of equestrian then?
@@MarkKerton I've not done any as yet Mark.. but my friends child does showjumping and I wanted to get some pictures for them.. I was hoping that I'd be able to get them with my 5d mkiv and a 70-200mm.. for both indoor and outdoor..? Trying sports is new for me.. landscape is more where I would be.. Thanks for the great content.. you've inspired me to give sports a try
Was surprised you don't set your minimum shutter speed to your 1250 to go with the max iso setting you choose. Mark you won't know yourself when you eventually get your R3, the evf will show exactly what you get with your exposure compensation and forget all your focus points with tracking covering the whole sensor directed by your eyeball, you will be in heaven or is that just a dream LoL.
Nice video. I like seeing how others have their camera setup so thank you for sharing. A few comments if I may. I think it would be interesting to see your setup for day vs. night events in detail. I use kelvin for white balance at night. Explaining something on the WB+.would be helpful. I see auto WB can change color frame by frame if a sign changes or just different parts of the field. One looks good and the next is super yellow even in a sequence or burst of shots. The higher the ISO the more yellow you get. Kelvin keeps that WB consistent. I like the rear auto focus idea for panning but no way could I give up rear AF. ;) I don't think I could train my fingers to hit three buttons: shutter, rear AF and the button to switch for panning. Good idea on the set button and exposure compensation. I use the exposure compensation but never thought to use the set button and scroll wheel. i also try not to use auto settings like WB, shutter or ISO if the conditions aren't changing. Let your camera do less and more on the needful. Love your videos!
i have subbed i have a poor 480mm 1" bridge camera and i am strugglign to make it capture low light soccer match 1/200 SS wasn't always great, but it got me a few decent photos (i only need few clean pix) but now i am forced to increase to 1/500 or just get away with a few decent images at 1/200 SS, my concern here however is that NOISE is so damn high, and hence i get less detailed images, so coming to think about it again, i may have to shoot at 1/200, because Noise is a BIGGER problem to me and picture detail from blurry images due to slower shutter i got two options now to mitigate or reduce the damn noise 1) I can set shadows to -5 and +5 for highlights 2) I can set noise reduction to +5 (maximum) and sharpness to +5 so can i set those two simultaneously to get lowest noise levels possible or should i stick to only one of them ? and which one ? thank you,
Please slow down for the settings of pucture style. There’s no explanation of why you would chose 7 or any other setting. For example if it’s not set to 7 what happens. Why do you set it to 7? Also, the monopod you’re using, can you give some info on it. I can inly use one hand as the other is paralyzed. I cannot easily operate a tripod. I wrestle w/ it & want to throw it at times. I think a monopod can be more helpful for my situation. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. Photography before my stroke was a great help but post stroke I am unable to remember. So I am trying to learn all over again. it would be a big help for my mental well being to puck up photography again. I look forward to any assistance you can provide. Thank you for your time.
Hi Deb. Thanks for getting in touch. I like to shoot at full sharpness, number seven, just to ensure that the images come out nice and sharp. Obviously the lower the number the lower the sharpness in camera so setting it to the maximum number seven, just insures a nice sharp image, hope that helps and thanks again for watching
Great video Mark. Always love these sort of tips that just make shooting a bit quicker and easier. This is a channel for photographers of all levels but gets way past the "basics" of shooting sports. As a big compliment to you it just feels like a chat between photogs in the cafe rather than a RUclipsr trying to sell their channel/presets/gear they are paid to promote. Can you put a link to that fold down stool you use. Had one before but managed to crash through the floor in the first ten minutes of using it... buy cheap you buy twice right...
Thanks Grant, very kind words there and glad you enjoyed the video. Here is a link to the minimax stall that are use. I’m still on my original, four seasons in and still going strong👍🏻 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Real-original-18-5-Mini-Max-stool-Portable-retractable-telescopic-folding-seat-/264584624490?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I've been shooting Championship football for several years but always interesting to see what other shooters have set. Mostly the same just different sensitivity settings
Hello .... do you mean AF tracking settings ?? What are your recommendations ?, if I may ask.
I take my DSLR to the British Touring Car Championship BTCC... I just set the shutter to 1/640 and have the ISO set at around 320/400 if I have enough light... Higher ISO if the light is not so good... My Nikon D7500 is still clean and "Noise-free" even at ISO 3200 and shoot it in RAW
I can make ALL the adjustments to white balance/contrast/brightness/sharpness etc in photoshop when I get home. I have shot the image in RAW so can change pretty much everything in photoshop when I get home.
It seems to work well enough.
Thank you for this video, Mark.
Those setting are wonderful! I tried them yesterday on my Canon R7 for a Baseball tournament and hands down some of the best shots ive captured this year with minimal editing.
That’s great news. Pleased the settings helped you👍🏻
Bought myself a monopod this week after watching you using one in your videos. I shoot wildlife and tend to move around quite a bit, so a tripod is far too cumbersome. Absolutely loved using the monopod on a shoot today. Definitely noticed that more of my shots were sharp.
Ah that’s great Daniel, glad to hear you’re getting sharper frames too👍🏻
The monopod you purchased, was the weight of your equipment handled well. What brand/ model did you get. I’m considering buying one. Thank you.
@@deb8183 Hey Deb. It was a Manfrotto one. I'm using a Canon EOS and the Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3. It's been great so far.
@@Lethorio Thank you for getting back yo me I really appreciate your time.
Thanks for sharing your photography knowledge absolute brilliant Photographer
Only just found this whilst searching for night floodlighting football photography. Many thanks for the information I shall try to change my settings on my Sony A7lll. A challenge with so many different settings.
Modern cameras are so incredibly customisable. I doubt if there are any variations that cannot be set up. We really are spoiled 😊
They sure are fantastic bits of kit now Robert aren’t they! Makes the job so much easier! Thanks for watching👍🏻
Just watched again to refresh before I shoot Saints Ladies tomorrow. Thanks Mark
I recently got my 7dmk2 and i didn't know that there is such an option for secendary settings. This is very good for motorsport also. I can take some shots with high shutter speed and quickly change to panning settings. Thank you very much!
Quality, your tips are top notch Mark, thanks for doing this video.
Agree with the majority of your settings. My biggest issue is metering settings especially for pics of managers. Using evaluative the managers faces are often way underexposed. However using partial metering it seems to work much better. Was shooting directly into the sun yesterday for a full game and it was a nightmare. One team in black shirts, the other in mostly white. Head was fried after the 90 minutes were up. I never use a monopod. Shoot hand-held with Canon 200-400 and 1dx mkiii.
Thanks for watching David. Regarding managers, I always tend to pop the exposure compensation down two or three stops, fire an image or two off, doublecheck it and then spend five minutes trying to get some action from the managers. Nothing worse than a half sun half shaded pitch though, know where you are coming from there👍🏻
@@MarkKerton many thanks Mark. Yes managers can provide more action than the players at times. You generally know which managers are most excitable. Its all good until they realise you're taking their picture and they glare at you. lol
Great video Mark, always great to see videos explaining in depth all aspects of the camera settings, can't wait to see more sports videos 👍
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it👍🏻
Thanks Mark, informative as ever and very useful. I’ll try that f5 on the 70-200 next time, providing we keep some sun, lol. Love the double settings function. I was looking for a quick way of doing that on my d500 recently but can’t find a way to set the settings I want. It’s a rookie mistake but I’ve slowed ss and upped f at half time to get portrait shots of crowd and mgmt but then forgotten to reset at the restart! A button for an alternative set would save me, but really I just have to pay more attention, lol. I love BBF now, but couldn’t get it on my first camera because the af on button was quite low and had a collar. Newer bodies had more pronounced af on button and found it much easier. Cheers
I thought I was the only person who preferred f5.0 and Auto ISO. Too many photographers claim that going "fully" manual is the best but you spend more time correcting exposure in post production. I also see no advantage to using back button focus because keeping my finger on the shutter release is easy to do
This is excellent, thank you. I can easily adapt your ideas for rugby.
Ditto - really helpful - particularly enjoyed your recent video on the Leicester v Exeter game!
Thanks for watching Dave, appreciate that. Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully I will be back for some more rugby soon
Thanks Justin, glad you enjoyed it👍🏻
thanks for all the Info I
shoot all types of sports this really helps
Your welcome, glad it’s helped out in some way👍🏻
Nice tip about the monopod attachment there Mark. Will deffo try that out. Sirui is the business!
Damn, I’ve been shooting for 6+ years and never really thought to do these settings. Time to go home and play now haha
Thanks, mate!
This is a great insight into what is required under various categories
Thanks for watching Al👍🏻
@@MarkKerton your welcome Mark
Thanks Mark, really interesting to see how you set up your 1DX Markiii
Going to give your setting a try for this football season
thanks Mark for this video!
very information for starting sports photography!!!
So much helpful information in your videos. Thank you!
Really could have used your vids 10+ yrs ago.
Thanks for watching Jared. One of the main reasons I started vlogging my sport. I found it a tad secretive when I started out!
👌👏 Great walkthrough Cheers 🤘
Thank you. I'm a Nikon shooter and mainly african wildlife when I can.
In photography there is little difference between the top end Nikon and Canons. I just invested heavily in glass over the last 50 years and did not jump ship back in 2015/16 when I last upgraded my long glass.
AutoIso is a BIG winner for me too. Yes some BIF guys hate it - but for me it is a saviour.
I use Matrix Exposure with Highlight Priority (protection), similar to evaluative, and like you Exposure Comp as necessary.
Always set White Balance to Cloudy (6000k) when outside and fix this later - if needed. How about shooting under the lights or indoors -- you use white balance shift -vs- a reference card/expodisc.
I too think purist Back-button focussing is like wearing a hair shirt.
I typically focus using Group Focus, but can press a button to select spot mode. Eyes being particularly important.
One of the key differences between Nikon and Cannon is AF-tracking -- good to see your settings.
From what you said - you do not auto send from the camera to the desk - your path is via a card reader and laptop - so presumably using JPG is a speed of exporting issue, even though you could take in RAW and export as JPG. Many of the other sports shoots seem to shoot only in JPG - whereas I always shoot RAW to have more choices.
Thanks for watching and Cummington Andy. We do send straight off the back of the camera and so shooting in JPEG is pretty vital for that. I have always shot sport in JPEG as a rule. Most clients only print at 72 DPI so quality isn’t really an issue I know what you mean now about shooting in raw and having a much better choice of quality to edit with. Obviously I always shoot in raw for my landscapes and Woodlands so that I can alter the tones and have a good control over the image. I’m not sure how shooting in raw for sport would affect the buffering? I do have pretty fast CompactFlash cards but not sure they would cope with the bigger file size when shooting a burst of 10 or 12 images. Also, the downloading time is increased with the rules to. Thanks again for your comment Andy and appreciate your support on the channel👍🏻
Very informative thanks Mark.
Just coming across your videos Mark, and I find them interesting. I photo cover for media as well. While in sports photography, we all have our styles, but I am one who tries alternative ways to see if I can adapt to the improvements. One of our differences is you do not use the back button for focusing. While it took me a bit to remember to use my thumb, rather than a half-press of the shutter to focus, I found the back focusing to be much more effective, For example, like in landscape photography, I can target focus an object, like a flower, at the center of my viewfinder, press the back button to focus and let go, then I can offset the view of the camera to the side and snap the image without losing focus of the flower as when framing for the rule of thirds. For sports photography, the back button does take conscious practice, for, at times, I have to let go of the back button to push the button again when I want to follow the action in a new focus plane, especially if the Case Setting for tracking is at -2, even at -1, otherwise the camera is dragging on to the past session. BTW, I use the same collapsable stool, as if getting set to milk cows. Haha. Keep up the good work and your videos!
Thanks for watching John, really appreciate that. I think I will have another go at the back button as it would be handy for offsetting focusing, especially when referees are handing out cards or what have you. I need to practice the back button away from work really so that there is less pressure to get it right! I would be lost without my minimax tall, they are great aren’t they. Thanks again for your comment John, catch up soon👍🏻
Thanks Mark :) Very helpful
Brill, glad you found it useful👍🏻
Fantastic information! Loved it!
Top stuff as always. Thanks Mark. With my 1DX iii I use the provided wire or WiFi to transfer the images. What am I missing not having a card reader please?
Great!!! Thanks for the tips
Thanks very much for this. I've just started shooting football and I'm finding your content a real inspiration. I bought a second had 70-200 the other day and was pretty gutted because the image was always quite soft at 2.8... until I've watched this. I didn't even know my 6DII had the settings you spoke about here. I've just been shooting in my bedroom under really poor light and it is focusing a treat and everything is coming out sharp :-) Cheers
Have you calibrated your lens to the camera body?
Great insight into a sports photographer ,great video …
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Very interesting video! Started to shoot some pics for my hometown club! Very nice to learn stuff from a professional! Keep up the great work! Greetings from Germany!
League 2 iso 6400 under lights would be a dream but not at my club! Maybe at some of the teams that have been in the Championship/Premier League before, but iso 16000-25000 at one end of Brunton Park for me and that’s at 1/1600. I shoot Sony A9 70-200 2.8 / Nikon D5 400 2.8 and use very similar settings to you in all the other camera settings. It was interesting to hear how you set up and compare thoughts. Cheers.
Yeh not too clever at the lower league grounds. I tend to go down to 800th-1000th in poor flood lit games, just to keep the noise to a minimum👍🏻
@@MarkKerton yes Mark I’ll be visiting that shutter territory on Tuesday night as well. It’s the only way but it is amazing what modern kit can capture compared to the days of Fuji film 1600👍🏻.
Great stuff, Mark.
Mark you are a brilliant Photographer thanks for sharing your knowledge do you fine if the ISO is high the picture is a bit grainey.
thank you
Thanks for watching👍🏻
Great stuff man much appreciated...
Thanks for watching, glad it’s helped out👍🏻
Really enjoyed the video Mark. Only came across you by chance today whilst searching for Rugby Photography Subscribed!
Thanks for the support Kevin👍🏻
Thanks Mark, really enjoy your videos! I have the 1Dxii. Is there any way, in the Custom Controls, to switch between Single Shooting and High Speed Continuous shooting?
Hi Mark.Great video as usual. Have been doing ice hockey inside. Would like some tips or suggestions .Thank You.
excelente video. gracias. saludos desde chile
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Hi Mark I have just brought a 1dx how do you use both cards
Great video Mark...very informative. Hoping to get back into shooting some sports when I get back to the UK in a week or so. Cheers!
Thanks for watching, appreciate that. Good luck with the sport shooting once you get back
another good video once again Mark, cheers. like you have problems using back button focus, I seem to have problems with using a supertele as well as my 70-200 at games..whether my technique is all wrong, or I simply cant rest it easily while switching, Im not sure, but would love to get into it properly..have a good weekend.
Great video Mate, very informative, very helpful, & I will buy you two cups of coffee, since you deserve them.
Ah many thanks Daniel, very kind👍🏻 Glad the video helped a bit
Hey Mark. Love your channel sir. Question around the settings... i'm assuming those were primarily for Daytime games. Can you describe the differences between what you do for day and night games. You spoke about it casually, but not from the perspective of shutter speed or approaching night games in general. Thanks,
Great video again Mark, thanks.
Really useful tips and advice even though I am on a Nikon d500.
Thanks for watching Jonathon. Sorry it was all Canon based but I guess the methods are all very similar👍🏻
@@MarkKerton thanks for the reply, yes it is all very similar and it helps so much.
If you get chance to do a video on how best to sort and store all your pictures would be appreciated, mine are all mixed up.
Hi Mark great video I shot a lot of Championship rugby, I have 3 Cannon's Eos 1D MKiii do know if it has a IOS auto I looked but can find it. I shot on av mode but I going to try your setting on M. Also have you done video on how you edit your photos in Lightroom.
Thanks Brian. I presume the Mach 3 has auto iso-? It should be setting down from 100 when you scroll through. I don’t really use Lightroom an awful lot, I tend to edit in photo shop. I did film a few photo shop videos last year during lockdown, hopefully one of them may help you out
Thanks for sharing
Excellent video. Thanks for all the tips. Interesting that you don't use Back Button Focus. I thought it was a game changer for me. Good luck with the upcoming games.
Thanks for watching Kent. I wish I could master the back button focusing but I keep giving up too easily!
Massive thanks for this video Mark. Set my cameras up as per your guidance for the rugby today and got some crackers 👍
Brilliant, that’s great the the video helped. Thanks for watching👍🏻
Are these settings for any canon camera. I use a Canon EOS 2000D rebel and wanted to see if it will work. And also would you use a flash or no.
This is amazing
Thanks for watching. Glad you found it useful
thanks so much
Thanks for watching Robert👍🏻
Mark, you should do one for your night games. Would be good to hear what chances you make
A night game vlog is coming up next Sunday Alan👍🏻
Great video! I'll be trying out your settings this week. One question I am having is about Extenders. Do you use them? If so, what are your pros and cons? I currently just have a Canon 70-200 2.8 IS 2 USM. Maybe you've discussed this topic in another video and replying with a link to that would be a sufficient answer. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Heston. Yes, are use extend is quite a bit, especially on the 300 at the moment. All you really need to do is pop the picture to around F8 or F10, just to keep your subject nice and sharp. Other than that, the only thing you need to think about is lighting. On a poorly lit dull day you probably won’t get away with using an extender without creating some noise in your images so just be aware of that. Hope that helps mate
@@MarkKerton Thank you for your quick reply. I used your suggestions from your videos this week and they turned out even more usable photos!
Hi mark, great videos. Have you got any related to your MacBook setup in the field?
Thanks for watching. Planning a pre match prep video very soon👍🏻
@@MarkKerton that’ll be great, thanks. I can’t understand how you share images on a laptop when it’s raining 🤪
Just come across your RUclips channel. I shoot Wessex League and Southern for my local paper New Milton Advertiser and Lymington Times. When I started, I was told not to bother with evening games, due to poorer light. I use a Nikon D5. 1000 sutter 2.8f and generally 12800 to 20000 ISO, but try not to go above 16000 for print. Paper dose help with expenses, as I've been doing it for a good while. I know a lot of papers only pay with a name credit, and no money, so I refuse them to print pictures. Virtually all my local grounds have now LED lighting, which makes things easier.
I used to have a football league DATACO licence, but now non league takes up Saturday and Tuesday night games. Always to see how other snappers work. Have got an earlier Nikon 400, and 70-200 2.8, but for general daylit games I use an 80-400 all in one lens, as Wessex League rules say "No snappers Pitchside", due to a player being injured by a snapper, and neither having the all important Insurance. Insurance is just about as important as the kit one uses, I feel, and a lot of places will not allow to photograph without insurance. Yes mine is for £5 million public liability to cover most things. Also certificate is laminated in kit bag.
New Milton, I recently moved from Milford, small world! Did enjoy my time shooting non league when I first started out, so friendly to work with. Little money in it and defo shot it for the love of it!
5mil liability is about the norm nowadays👍🏻
Good call to keep it in your bag, you just never know!
Thanks for watching anyway and keep up the snapping👍🏻
Hello, I really like your videos. I have a question . Can I use the same settings for the ice hockey photo? I have a canon 7dII with a canon 70/200 f2.8 lens.
Isn't it odd that you can use af-on to pan blur but not af? Essentially the exact same technique! Lol
I have to spin my 300 round to sit on my shoulder just because of the difference in foot. There's not enough behind the foot to rest it on my shoulder so I spin it round and sit the lens on my shoulder.
If you put the card readers nearer the hinge and at the side that might stop it drooping as much?
Thanks for watching Barry. Very true about the back button focus, a very similar technique but I am just so used to my index finger operation now I keep giving up after 10 minutes because I’m afraid of missing some action by not pressing the AF button and forgetting! Good point on the position of the card readers. Think putting the CF express reader on the top of the laptop has just altered the weight that bit too much! I might have to give that a try👍🏻
Another great video Mark.what settings would you use under flood lights poor one,s
Thanks for watching Robert. This is one of the questions in this weeks video that I answer. Let me know your thoughts👍🏻
@@MarkKerton Great help Mark will give it ago covered a football match Saturday night iso was way up 8000 flat and grainey.
Of course I just like to watch your videos but sometimes I get a pearl. One time about a year ago you used a collapsable stool, I purchased one and use it frequently. And in this video, about where on the foot of the lens you screw in the monopod. I generally mount the lens and camera then suspend it upside down and see where it balances with a finger used as a fulcrum then use the closest hole. But then when walking the sidelines with camera and monopod over my shoulder it always felt uncontrolled. Now, using your method I can mount the monopod where one side will be heavier and stay put on my shoulder when shooting or moving. Does that make sense? Here in Florida, the "sunshine state", I leave my WB on sunny....my attempt at humor. thank Mark. See you in the next video
Thanks for watching Ted, appreciate your kind words. So pleased that it helped you to get the monopod set up better. Hopefully it will make your shooting that bit more comfortable👍🏻
Great video Mark... have you ever done any horse racing or show jumping.. would the setting differ much..?
Thanks for watching John. Yes, I’ve done a lot of horseracing, mainly point points. Are used to have a marquee in the box area and sell prints to owners and jockeys, really enjoyed that. Family very similar settings yes hi shutter speed and big apertures to make the horses stand out against the backdrop. Most action subjects require the same sort of settings. Guessing you photograph a lot of equestrian then?
@@MarkKerton I've not done any as yet Mark.. but my friends child does showjumping and I wanted to get some pictures for them.. I was hoping that I'd be able to get them with my 5d mkiv and a 70-200mm.. for both indoor and outdoor..? Trying sports is new for me.. landscape is more where I would be.. Thanks for the great content.. you've inspired me to give sports a try
🔥🔥🔥
Was surprised you don't set your minimum shutter speed to your 1250 to go with the max iso setting you choose. Mark you won't know yourself when you eventually get your R3, the evf will show exactly what you get with your exposure compensation and forget all your focus points with tracking covering the whole sensor directed by your eyeball, you will be in heaven or is that just a dream LoL.
Just a dream for me at the moment Scott unfortunately! I’ll be sticking with the good old 1DX for a while longer yet. Thanks for watching Scott👍🏻
Nice video. I like seeing how others have their camera setup so thank you for sharing. A few comments if I may. I think it would be interesting to see your setup for day vs. night events in detail. I use kelvin for white balance at night. Explaining something on the WB+.would be helpful. I see auto WB can change color frame by frame if a sign changes or just different parts of the field. One looks good and the next is super yellow even in a sequence or burst of shots. The higher the ISO the more yellow you get. Kelvin keeps that WB consistent. I like the rear auto focus idea for panning but no way could I give up rear AF. ;) I don't think I could train my fingers to hit three buttons: shutter, rear AF and the button to switch for panning. Good idea on the set button and exposure compensation. I use the exposure compensation but never thought to use the set button and scroll wheel. i also try not to use auto settings like WB, shutter or ISO if the conditions aren't changing. Let your camera do less and more on the needful. Love your videos!
i have subbed
i have a poor 480mm 1" bridge camera and i am strugglign to make it capture low light soccer match
1/200 SS wasn't always great, but it got me a few decent photos (i only need few clean pix)
but now i am forced to increase to 1/500 or just get away with a few decent images at 1/200 SS,
my concern here however is that NOISE is so damn high, and hence i get less detailed images,
so coming to think about it again, i may have to shoot at 1/200, because Noise is a BIGGER problem to me and picture detail from blurry images due to slower shutter
i got two options now to mitigate or reduce the damn noise
1) I can set shadows to -5 and +5 for highlights
2) I can set noise reduction to +5 (maximum) and sharpness to +5
so can i set those two simultaneously to get lowest noise levels possible or should i stick to only one of them ? and which one ?
thank you,
Top Man
Nice
Thanks for watching👍🏻
Please slow down for the settings of pucture style. There’s no explanation of why you would chose 7 or any other setting. For example if it’s not set to 7 what happens. Why do you set it to 7? Also, the monopod you’re using, can you give some info on it. I can inly use one hand as the other is paralyzed. I cannot easily operate a tripod. I wrestle w/ it & want to throw it at times. I think a monopod can be more helpful for my situation. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. Photography before my stroke was a great help but post stroke I am unable to remember. So I am trying to learn all over again. it would be a big help for my mental well being to puck up photography again. I look forward to any assistance you can provide. Thank you for your time.
Hi Deb. Thanks for getting in touch. I like to shoot at full sharpness, number seven, just to ensure that the images come out nice and sharp. Obviously the lower the number the lower the sharpness in camera so setting it to the maximum number seven, just insures a nice sharp image, hope that helps and thanks again for watching
An very useful video. How can I buy you a coffee? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Gary, really appreciate your support👍🏻 There’s a Ko-fi link in the video description. Thanks so much👍🏻
Do you still have your noise reduction at full?
1 Dx or Mark ii or Mark iii...?
This is on the mkiii but same applies for all 1Dx’s👍🏻
Okey
My camera only goes as low as f4
You mean the lens is an f4 Robert!
@@MarkKerton yes my bad
Yup. Back button focus can.... &#$@ right off.... 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Haha, brill Sean🤣
JPEG?
Yep jpg👍🏻
Great video Mark.
Always love these sort of tips that just make shooting a bit quicker and easier. This is a channel for photographers of all levels but gets way past the "basics" of shooting sports.
As a big compliment to you it just feels like a chat between photogs in the cafe rather than a RUclipsr trying to sell their channel/presets/gear they are paid to promote.
Can you put a link to that fold down stool you use.
Had one before but managed to crash through the floor in the first ten minutes of using it... buy cheap you buy twice right...
Thanks Grant, very kind words there and glad you enjoyed the video. Here is a link to the minimax stall that are use. I’m still on my original, four seasons in and still going strong👍🏻 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Real-original-18-5-Mini-Max-stool-Portable-retractable-telescopic-folding-seat-/264584624490?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0