Just did a 1/4” architecture reveal(shadow gap) both top and bottom of all walls and around all doors in my personal house. Did all the work myself. Extremely difficult detail to pull off, and it’s worth it. The look is amazing. The walls look like they’re floating since there is no connection between floor wall and ceiling. I’d do it again, although I’d possibly test out different methods and products. I used trimtex products and was very happy with it.
Have level 5’d most of my house (over a terrible skip trowel done by builder). Have used a ton of trufig outlets and some cool trimtex F bead for LED channels. Wanted to do what you did in mstr bath on ceiling but my concern was code. Not a builder but wall to lid has to be tapped and mudded, no?
Trim/Paint tip to add to this that we did in my personal house I just built. Your painter will thank you for this. When you’re setting trim, use a drywall knife so ever so slightly space your baseboard off of your floors. They’ll be less than 1/16th of an inch off the floor, just enough for the painters to run their masking tape UNDER the baseboards ever so slightly so you don’t see any accidental bleed over drips that might get onto the floor.
A much better idea that saves a TON of time is to permit the painters to come and prime and first coat all the trim while it is still in stock lengths. They can finish it in 1/10 of the time and then only have nail touch ups after it's installed.
Great video. Super interesting understanding the added details and cost that goes into “simple” and “clean”. You really have to find the right contractors as I would believe not everyone has this level of detail, experience and skill.
I first saw these details 40 years ago in Laguna Beach CA. All done with metal corner beads, J moulds and homemade products. This was long before all the Trim Tech accesories were available.
Before I retired I spent my entire working life in the Architectural profession in Australia. Obviously I have a very strong preference for modern design and its details. As such I totally applaud what you have achieved with this. Some of your trim mouldings are slightly different to what we have here but the result is pretty much the same. Having said that, your flush skirting is a new one on me but I certainly like it. The difficultly for us is that where you use 5/8'' (16mm) plasterboard (dry wall) we generally use 1/2'' (13mm) or even 3/8'' (10mm) which means our skirtings (base boards) are going to be pretty thin. There are others in Texas who go to extreme lengths to use the most complicated timber mouldings everywhere and while I admire their workmanship I certainly don't share their taste. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
Can you recommend anything for cold air returns? Have a 20x20 filter and looking for a solution. 14x14 supply vents with separate dampers are my solution there but having a tough time finding a 42x20 and the 20x20 (fits two 20x20 filters). Have a quote request in to envisivent. Open to other solutions.
So true, modern “trim-less” finish is far more labor intensive. Properly executed, nothing can touch the look, especially here in Boulder area where the Frank Lloyd Wright look sells. You are however missing a MAJOR step in process to truly execute the complete finish. You need to flush mount your switch & outlet cover plates. Obviously we are in a very different price point than Austin but I think even there, the customer willing to pay for L5 drywall and trim-less baseboards and casings would at least like the option of the truly clean integrated look of flush cover plates. I hate to mention company names that aren’t you sponsors for fear of upsetting your commercial agreements but I don’t believe you have a sponsor in this sector thus I’ll mention the 2 we’ve used; Design Mod and Trufig. The former is honestly cheap pia and not recommended. We used them on one home and my subs said never again. We’ve been using Trufig on every home the last 4 years. Much higher priced but incredibly adjustable and the finish product is amazing. They’ll even custom machine plates for unique switches such as the Pass & Seymour Adorne line square switches, although lead times can be problematic, depending on your job and schedule. If mentioning brands conflicts with any of your sponsors, feel free to delete or alert me and I will do so. My apologies in advance if that is case. Regardless, do yourself a favor and look into this style option for future trim less jobs. Your customers will appreciate the efforts.
I’m in the Boulder area as well. I looked into trufig as it seems like an amazing product, and really wanted to go with it. It would have been about $20k just for outlets and switches on my project. That is just way too much for most people. I do agree with you on going that route if it’s in the budget, and there are definitely people in this area with that budget. One house near me is spending $2M just on landscape.
As a furniture maker, I can appreciate and understand the obsession over details. So why not obsess over switch plates and outlet covers? Anyone can see why these are a poor idea. Just walk around your own house and look at your switch plates and outlet covers (and door knobs and door edges, etc.). I guarantee you that they are covered by oily fingerprints, smudges, scratches, chips, minor damage, etc. But these switch plates and outlet covers can be easily replaced for $1.15 each. The flush mount switch & outlet cover plates by Design Mod and Trufig are VERY expensive to replace. And one of the major premises for using flush mount cover plates is to make outlets, switches and more to "disappear." But normal daily wear & tear (fingerprints, smudges, scratches, chips, etc.) actually shows up MORE and looks WORSE on flush mount cover plates. In reality, flush mount cover plates are just like ridiculously oversized kitchen islands and waterfall countertops--another form of conspicuous consumption. While design choices are clearly a matter of opinion, most people that I’ve spoken to find flush mount cover plates to be jarring and odd looking, not at all an aesthetic improvement.
@@idontthinkso666 I kept watching this video and thinking, "Why?" It is a novel look for a house that is not really going to be lived in by the common folks, especially families with children, unless they can also employ full time cleaning staff. Of course, wood trim originated to fill or trim the gaps that standard construction either couldn't or couldn't at reasonable cost.
Michael, you aren't kidding about L5 drywall price. Im building in NoCo and Im finding that L5 is double the price of the standard textured application. Have you identified drywall installers who do an excellent job of achieving an L5 finish plus flush baseboard installation at a reasonable price?
@@tonyr7000 I'm a drywaller that does level 5 and flush mount finishes. It's expensive because if it's not done with great attention to details it looks terrible.
Modern is so difficult. It's laughable seeing guys on Facebook knock modern as cheaper...they haven't tried(and failed...and tried again...and learned) the difficulties that comes with pulling off a proper modern install
Of course modern is more expensive. The PURPOSE of trim is to HIDE the transition so the that transition doesn't have to be perfect. Trim is an evolved solution to the problem of how to hide irregularities in an affordable way.
Modern for me, and clients work for is: clean, sleek, detailed, aesthetically refined to the eye, warm industrial(not just sterile cold feeling), & has a very easy clean time (very important imo, like squared 5.5” base…..the tops collect dust and dirt like crazy and even more when painted trim white. Lots go w/ this style, but I try and talk them out of it, b/c year later might not look so “good” and can get same look w/ diff configurations) Always a pleasure watching your vids Matt. Love what your doing for the trades! Also, hate when boxes filled w/ mud when gotta do sparky work, it’s a let peeve of mine, b/c it can be avoided w/ taking a few steps during electrical rough in, and drywall prep (imo)
I agree with a squared base board collecting dust but only takes a couple of minutes to dust off with a paintbrush an entire open plan living area. I reckon this flush trim trend looks very sterile like a hospital or something.
We’ve done something similar but with the door jambs we had the door shop kerf the face of the jamb at a 1/4” reveal and ran the jambs the same width as the framing. Then we used mud beads and ran one leg into the kerf on the jamb. It doesn’t give the completely flat look but is another way to do a trim less look. It looks like the Sheetrock dies onto the face of the jamb. We used soss invisible hinges to give it that sleek modern look as well. And yea, these details are exorbitantly more expensive.
Hi Mark, Im in the process of ordering door jambs, I want to the most minimalist look possible. That means I only want the door to show and not the jamb or frame or Kerf. It's easy to do that with Aluminum or steel frames, but I have not seen that with wooden James or kerf. Your post is interesting, it looks like you may have solved that problem? are you able to share some pictures of your doors and how you overcame that problem?
If you use an applied bead the bead and mud add 1/8" to the thickness of the drywall so if you use 5/8 drywall you need 3/4" trim to flush. If you cannot get the reglet bead, rabbit the base and use a deep reach tearaway bead. The framing need to be almost perfectly flat or you need room to shim the base or drywall to each other for a straight flat finish
So true. Using Frye Reglet, I had to shim nearly every stud to compensate for irregularities. Built-up 1/16” ram board strips behind the aluminum. This kind of work HAS to be flawless, or it just looks sh-t. God, I’m having flashbacks…
If you have done this before make sure your base board is an 1/8 thicker than your sheet rock - remember the plastic detail trim is around an 1/8 . In metric we use 13 mm wall board and 15.5 to 16 mm base board. And yes I’ve done around 2000 m of this detail, it’s time consuming hence expensive. Love the trimtex Mat wish we could get them here in New Zealand PS just installed a house lot of Brombal windows- WOW that stuff is fantastic. You visited a project a while back with that- are you going to do a follow up?
Matt, have you ever looked into AluBase Shadowline by EZ Concept? We love the reveal detail on flush baseboards and will be doing it on our upcoming custom build. The AluBase is a single product that has the reveal bead already built in - not sure if it’s a cost effective product, working on getting pricing.
Working on a house in auburn Alabama with a trim less detail and ULTRA modern details on cabinets, lights, fixtyres etc. love it and love That. I can basically tune in ans get tips :)
Definitely appreciate the amount of planning and skill that goes into this, but for my money I’d prefer some classic craftsman looks or a modern take on it.
@@buildshow would love to see a Similar walk through to this one at your place with your trim package and how you staged that aspect of your build. Great video matt!
I would be interested in seeing a video about how to do these modern details 90% as good for 25% the cost... In the same vein as the recent spec home airtightness video.
You would just not level 5 all the walls. Use cheaper materials, you could likely use 1/2" drywall and 1/2" thick trim and do less work there. Would still be a little more expensive tho as it is more work for everybody to get flush baseboards and casings. As the trim's entire purpose is to hide those unfinished edges, instead you're now finishing those edges and flushing them up to the trim. Getting the reveals perfect, etc.
I think most of it would be how easy you could make it on the trades. First of all, im yet to see a house with straight flat walls and straight flat floors (under 2 million). If you are going to use solid 1x you will be able to see every dip in the floor. So now you have to hire the expensive concrete guy and framers, and im assuming use a more robust or higher quality studs and joists. Then, you have to convince drywallers to install it exactly 6" up, all around the house. The trades ( that Matt doesnt use) dont get paid crap. In my area, the more skilled trades get about 200$ a day cash, thats working 8 hrs of physical labor in texas heat. No sick time, no vacation time. If they paid taxes then its 35% less than that. So the ones that are highly skilled and have a good rep, can do matts houses, and take all the extra time and call backs to make it perfect. And they are probably paid accordingly. But if you were to build a house, it would be hard enough finding fair priced decent labor to even show up. So if you wanted to achieve matts details, it would be more about the trades than the actual materials, in my opinion
90% as good for 25% of the cost does not exist. It's all in the labor and labor is up 100-300% over 2019 in most trades. Finish carpenters are the most expensive day rate you will find. Cheaping out at all on this will result in wavy work.
In my experience, many doors rely on the trim to stabilize the jambs to prevent twisting. Do you see the flex caulk providing the same amount of stability?
I don't think it would need any additional stabilization. Not that what you're saying isn't the case for some installations, but I don't see a properly built jamb (with possibly higher grade lumber) bowing to a point where it would need bracing along the edge. If you notice, even their "paint grade" lumber is custom milled poplar
Would love to see the process on a remodel where your removing trim and replacing with trim-tex on a window for example. Which bead would you recommend for that?
@matt risinger as much as love watching you on RUclips and all, your build show website is awesome especially the team you have collected and allow them to host videos. Reminds me of the old days of this old house, the new yankee workshop, & other shows grew up watching b/c PBS was only station allowed to watch growing up, otherwise…..it was: go outside and play till dinner, just don’t come back w/ anything broken 😉 Nothing like how things are today, especially when there are no trees/woods behind your house (or field, neighbors house, etc) you can explore and play in when live in HOA and the neighborhoods w/o concrete fences and subdivisions are hard to find when don’t live in certain areas
You inspired me to try the flush base, revel in my basement. Getting ready to but floor and base in. Here in atlanta, hard to find trim tex w/o a special order and the ENTIRE box which is too much waste @trimtex Anyone need 5/8 x 1/2 revel...got plenty
Matt those flush baseboards are really something to behold. When you install these do you only recommend white wall & trim paint to match the baseboards (although I assume you apply flat paint on the walls and a satin finish on the trim)
Hi Matt Great video, long time subscriber and always learning better methods thanks to you. I have a modern 20k sf home I’m preparing to build for a client. I’d love to see a video on integrated gutters with in wall downspout. A builders nightmare! I’ve heard many horror stories but haven’t see fist hand a bulletproof way to pull this off. Got anything? Thanks in advance!
@@jeffb321 what’s all included in that? All of this here in the video? I do purchasing for a builder and we are paying about .45 cents to install doors, trim, closet shelves, and attic ladders, hardware. A little extra for stairs. But nothing near $1
We do this on all of our trimless houses. The added cost in labor and materials is substantially higher. Our customers choose upgraded switches as well, commonly Pass & Seymour Adorne or Buster & Price, the result is usually $80-125k upgrade. The aesthetics is unmatched for the cleanest, timeless look
imagine some kind of flush small utility box with a door that closes and is seamless- ie you'd mount your outlet inside the box and close the door- the door is the coverplate and can be opened to conveniently access additional outlets and other (think coaxial, fiber, ethernet) inside the enclosure, or the door could be replaced or modified to add outlets for them. The entire home could be wired up this way with redundant and extra capacity, with all electrical components fully grounded inside of a metal enclosure, and only wire running between them. This could substantially improve fire safety and if an outlet burns out, replacement would also be easier.
I have done these once, never again. Have to charge around $400/outlet in total to make any money. Inspectors hate them as well. Do a few in kitchens now only.
@@srt4b Have you tried the Trufig? With their adjustable depth, they are actually quite simple. Yes, plaster guys need to do a really fine job floating walls around each outlet but it’s something they’ve accepted at this point. No doubt the price is substantial but we’ve never had customer decline once they see the end result from previous job. We did a 4’ x 2’ mock-up maybe 2 years ago now so customers can see the finish during planning stages. We’re fortunate to be in a market that supports this level of workmanship. If all you’ve done is DesignMod plates, I agree, never again. The Trufig is a vastly superior and adaptable design.
Looks nice and clean. For me though it's not worth the extra work and expense. Traditional trim looks beautiful. BTW, level 5 drywall is a b**ch! You think you're done until you shine a bright light at an angle and you see all the imperfections! Haha
Hi I was actually thinking of doing a detail like this with the tear away bead prior to finding this video, but was concerned if the doors are slammed that an immediate break line would be visible. How in your experience has the durability of this detail stood the test of time?
this has been the Archi driven hipster detail in my region since the early 00's. personal preferences aside just make sure you make it hurt or you will lose profit and think VERY carefully thru sequence because in many cases where different finishes are adjacent you will have to schedule multiple leap-frog sub phases. This is an aspirational show-off detail and most often reflects more money than sense so if CD's come your way consider it a plea for 'please take my money so i can complain about how expensive my build is' at the Country Club and take as much as you can.
I’m sure this was sponsored by Trim Tex but last quote I got was .70/foot from them and just over $1.40 for aluminum trim from Fry Reglet. For that difference I’ll take the real stuff any day of the week and twice on the weekend.
Just curious - the stairs are already in and they're really close to the wall but not touching - how do you get paint there? or will that just stay primed?
Can anyone inform me how the vertical door jamb legs are wider than normal? I have tried discussing it with the various sellers of interior doors, and not one company seems to be able to provide the thicker door jamb for the finished case-less door look accomplished in the video. Much appreciated!
You are showing a different method of the flush base. Previously you had a z shadow bead and cut a rabbit on the back of the base to cover the edge. It looks like you use an F reveal this time. My question with the F reveal as it sits on the wood base do you see the plastic edge? The other method is the base overlaps. Anyone know?
My remodel is fairly detailed with chair rail, crown molding, wainscoting, etc., but wanted no shoe molding. Boy, talking about a pain in the butt! The floor had to go down before the base that complicated a lot! Can't imagine going full trimless. Though, I suspect there is a LOT less cut-in while painting. 😀
The gaps will still be less than the 4" minimum required by code, the reason the treads themselves on these kinds of stairs are so deep is make sure that is the case.
Anybody have expirience with thier expansion joint product? As the climate gets worse I'm finding my 70's home with a ton of cracks in the drywall due to the clay soil drying up. Would that be a good product to use?
Dont you see that bottom leg of the F bead sitting on top of the poplar? I know this is kind of a nit picky detail but these folks who like and willing to pay for these details tend to be of the nit picky breed in my experience. I was thinking Z bead would be a better option. Run a slot in top edge of the base first with a router and a 3 wing slot cutter. Over cut the slot depth a bit for some wiggle room to adjust the bead up/down. The slot should also help keep the drywall and base flush/co-planer if the framing is off a touch. This would also allow you to NOT have to paint the base incase the owner likes the look of matching the base to the floor which also might look good. I also agree, between cost of the ubber expensive FRy reglet plus the extra labor costs it becomes a detail reserved for the 1% Been a long time user of trim-tex and love all the options and price point.
@@renelopez8227 Most paying what Matt charges would still notice plus it gives dirt one more crack/ledge for dirt to collect. which over time will cause the seam/joint to become a black/darker line against a white background and stick out like a sore thumb. Also if painting after as the video shows you would also have to worry about expansion contraction more and vinyl tend to move A LOT and at a much different rate then wood. So if the bead contracts and or expands a little later it has the potential to develop a hairline crack between the bead and base, once again making a black line. Since the joint between the F bead and the base is near the face it will show much more easily. With the Z bead any movement/cracking issues will be near the back "and" will be hidden much better by the shadow of the joint. Sorry but the Z bead is a much better detail on all levels and since there is no price difference between the F and Z bead why not choose the better of the 2 options.
What is called modern here has been standard for 40 years in Europe. Minimalist means less cost, less maintenance, easier cleaning = more hygienic . Example baseboards: Seamless baseboards easier to clean. Flat doors, no crevices where dust can build up. Wall mounted toilets allow cleaning underneath and behind…
Matt may have made a small finish detail mistake using the Big Stretch caulking as he describes in this video. I want to stress the "may" part of this. As a professional house painter I rarely even suggest Big Stretch for interior finished detail joins like this, as it is designed to stretch, a lot (as the name implies). This can cause the finished paint film to crack as the caulking underneath it moves as the differing material move with age, and house movement. I save the Big Stretch for exterior use, and use a caulking that isn't as flexible for interior details, such as described here. Since Matt is building such nice, custom houses, this is one detail that could cause a call back a year, two, or 5 down the road. Again I stress the may part, as the crack he is filling looks to be small enough to not matter.
Using a timber jamb pocket door and tear away bead for that finish is the wrong detail to start with. There are pocket doors that have the jamb with a bead already part of it, as one piece, ready to mud. Leaving no joins anywhere.
@@CarbideEndMill This is good to know. Like I said I'm a painter. So I am not nearly so knowledgeable about the carpentry aspect of building. Which is part of why I like to watch these videos. I learn a lot, which I also like to do about pretty much everything.
The only way I see that base detail working is if you unscrew the plywood "seat" after the gyp. bd. is set. Is that the intent? Otherwise you have plywood flushing out with the finish face of the gyp. bd. and nowhere to park your F-bead.
This is probably a really silly question Matt, but why couldn't you just use the same type of drywall, cut in separate piece, in place of the poplar for the base boards?
I just watch on you tube Shoyan Japanese Carpenter; he is building a Japanese house. It is very interesting how they build a house in Japan. It is a timber frame type of building with mortise and tenon but with bolt and nuts no pegs to hold the joints and the building comes from the factory with all the mortise and tenon cut in.
Our 1942 house has a "flush base" and a shoe at floor itself, cover the edge of the oak floor. We painted it white, like the rest of the trim. Pops with the color on the walls. Walls are lath-and-plaster. When the electricians tried to cut into the wall, the dremel just skipped over the surface. The house is solid--doug fir framing, external trim is (old growth) redwood. External stucco was made from local river sand.
5/8 drywall would necessitate true 3/4 base because the “F” bead adds 1/8” at the bottom of the drywall. The bead is floated in....they won’t be in the same plane if you don’t order the base thicker!
Matt: Hey supply house, I need to order some cardboard sheathing Supply House: NO Way Matt. has inflation really gotten to your business? Matt: haha no! I need them to cover my finished floors.
I’m sorry but I don’t think the modern stuff looks better than traditional. Sometimes you just can’t fix what’s already good and just because it’s been around for a long time doesn’t mean there is something better. Oak trees have been growing on this planet for millions of years and they still look awesome.
Modern is great, but modern designs tend to translate that into less and less detail. The future of minimalist modern design is going be bare flat ceiling to walls from ceiling to floors. Cool, big plain boxes. Mmmm.
While I appreciate the work and skill that goes into the modern style trim. For me personally, it just looks terrible. Too industrial looking. I wouldn’t wanna live in a house like that. I’m just an old school guy. Give me a nice Second Empire, or Queen Anne, style. I know it’s completely out of style, but I’ll take 8 inch high, quartersawn, white oak baseboards, multi section crown mounding, and gorgeous plasterwork any day.
Rich weirdos concerning themselves with the mundane...I was doing work for a famous philly designer in the early 2000's. That flush molding stuff was a rage for a while...Our work is already stressful enough! Doing things that KILLLLLLL the time make it even harder to make a buck and finding guys that can produce it is like finding an honest politician...You really can't charge enough. You can make more money doing it the tried and true way, via production...I HATE that finish, just incase I'm being ambivalent...: )
What a nightmare for everyone involved lol. Personally I appreciate the imperfection of natural textures and materials, a house like this is just waiting for problems to start exposing themselves.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Just did a 1/4” architecture reveal(shadow gap) both top and bottom of all walls and around all doors in my personal house. Did all the work myself. Extremely difficult detail to pull off, and it’s worth it. The look is amazing. The walls look like they’re floating since there is no connection between floor wall and ceiling. I’d do it again, although I’d possibly test out different methods and products. I used trimtex products and was very happy with it.
I would love to see pictures of the finish job.
@@MaximusMerideus same.
Have level 5’d most of my house (over a terrible skip trowel done by builder). Have used a ton of trufig outlets and some cool trimtex F bead for LED channels. Wanted to do what you did in mstr bath on ceiling but my concern was code. Not a builder but wall to lid has to be tapped and mudded, no?
Awesome, I'd love to see a step by step video to how it was setup and done if you decide to share much appreciate it!
Love focusing on modern builds. This is my fav style of home, keep videos on modern homes coming!
Trim/Paint tip to add to this that we did in my personal house I just built. Your painter will thank you for this. When you’re setting trim, use a drywall knife so ever so slightly space your baseboard off of your floors. They’ll be less than 1/16th of an inch off the floor, just enough for the painters to run their masking tape UNDER the baseboards ever so slightly so you don’t see any accidental bleed over drips that might get onto the floor.
A much better idea that saves a TON of time is to permit the painters to come and prime and first coat all the trim while it is still in stock lengths. They can finish it in 1/10 of the time and then only have nail touch ups after it's installed.
@@kswas2784 except when you have to scribe every foot of trim anyway, that is…!
Put down painters paper first. Then set trim on it.
Great video. Super interesting understanding the added details and cost that goes into “simple” and “clean”. You really have to find the right contractors as I would believe not everyone has this level of detail, experience and skill.
I first saw these details 40 years ago in Laguna Beach CA. All done with metal corner beads, J moulds and homemade products. This was long before all the Trim Tech accesories were available.
Before I retired I spent my entire working life in the Architectural profession in Australia. Obviously I have a very strong preference for modern design and its details. As such I totally applaud what you have achieved with this. Some of your trim mouldings are slightly different to what we have here but the result is pretty much the same. Having said that, your flush skirting is a new one on me but I certainly like it. The difficultly for us is that where you use 5/8'' (16mm) plasterboard (dry wall) we generally use 1/2'' (13mm) or even 3/8'' (10mm) which means our skirtings (base boards) are going to be pretty thin.
There are others in Texas who go to extreme lengths to use the most complicated timber mouldings everywhere and while I admire their workmanship I certainly don't share their taste. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
Great content! Trim-less supply vents are also cool. Our clients love them! "Cardboard sheathing that some builders use"...shade 😆
Can you recommend anything for cold air returns? Have a 20x20 filter and looking for a solution. 14x14 supply vents with separate dampers are my solution there but having a tough time finding a 42x20 and the 20x20 (fits two 20x20 filters). Have a quote request in to envisivent. Open to other solutions.
So true, modern “trim-less” finish is far more labor intensive. Properly executed, nothing can touch the look, especially here in Boulder area where the Frank Lloyd Wright look sells.
You are however missing a MAJOR step in process to truly execute the complete finish. You need to flush mount your switch & outlet cover plates. Obviously we are in a very different price point than Austin but I think even there, the customer willing to pay for L5 drywall and trim-less baseboards and casings would at least like the option of the truly clean integrated look of flush cover plates.
I hate to mention company names that aren’t you sponsors for fear of upsetting your commercial agreements but I don’t believe you have a sponsor in this sector thus I’ll mention the 2 we’ve used; Design Mod and Trufig. The former is honestly cheap pia and not recommended. We used them on one home and my subs said never again. We’ve been using Trufig on every home the last 4 years. Much higher priced but incredibly adjustable and the finish product is amazing. They’ll even custom machine plates for unique switches such as the Pass & Seymour Adorne line square switches, although lead times can be problematic, depending on your job and schedule.
If mentioning brands conflicts with any of your sponsors, feel free to delete or alert me and I will do so. My apologies in advance if that is case.
Regardless, do yourself a favor and look into this style option for future trim less jobs. Your customers will appreciate the efforts.
I’m in the Boulder area as well. I looked into trufig as it seems like an amazing product, and really wanted to go with it. It would have been about $20k just for outlets and switches on my project. That is just way too much for most people. I do agree with you on going that route if it’s in the budget, and there are definitely people in this area with that budget. One house near me is spending $2M just on landscape.
As a furniture maker, I can appreciate and understand the obsession over details. So why not obsess over switch plates and outlet covers? Anyone can see why these are a poor idea. Just walk around your own house and look at your switch plates and outlet covers (and door knobs and door edges, etc.). I guarantee you that they are covered by oily fingerprints, smudges, scratches, chips, minor damage, etc. But these switch plates and outlet covers can be easily replaced for $1.15 each.
The flush mount switch & outlet cover plates by Design Mod and Trufig are VERY expensive to replace. And one of the major premises for using flush mount cover plates is to make outlets, switches and more to "disappear." But normal daily wear & tear (fingerprints, smudges, scratches, chips, etc.) actually shows up MORE and looks WORSE on flush mount cover plates.
In reality, flush mount cover plates are just like ridiculously oversized kitchen islands and waterfall countertops--another form of conspicuous consumption. While design choices are clearly a matter of opinion, most people that I’ve spoken to find flush mount cover plates to be jarring and odd looking, not at all an aesthetic improvement.
@@idontthinkso666 I kept watching this video and thinking, "Why?" It is a novel look for a house that is not really going to be lived in by the common folks, especially families with children, unless they can also employ full time cleaning staff.
Of course, wood trim originated to fill or trim the gaps that standard construction either couldn't or couldn't at reasonable cost.
Michael, you aren't kidding about L5 drywall price. Im building in NoCo and Im finding that L5 is double the price of the standard textured application. Have you identified drywall installers who do an excellent job of achieving an L5 finish plus flush baseboard installation at a reasonable price?
@@tonyr7000 I'm a drywaller that does level 5 and flush mount finishes. It's expensive because if it's not done with great attention to details it looks terrible.
Modern is so difficult. It's laughable seeing guys on Facebook knock modern as cheaper...they haven't tried(and failed...and tried again...and learned) the difficulties that comes with pulling off a proper modern install
That is the problem. It looks cheap, but it is not.
Of course modern is more expensive. The PURPOSE of trim is to HIDE the transition so the that transition doesn't have to be perfect. Trim is an evolved solution to the problem of how to hide irregularities in an affordable way.
@@dondumitru7093 well put!
This is so true. And I really like this guys’d channel.
Exactly, modern has many difficult details. Flush transitions is a risky proposition in design. Forget doing this with wood stud construction.
Modern for me, and clients work for is: clean, sleek, detailed, aesthetically refined to the eye, warm industrial(not just sterile cold feeling), & has a very easy clean time (very important imo, like squared 5.5” base…..the tops collect dust and dirt like crazy and even more when painted trim white. Lots go w/ this style, but I try and talk them out of it, b/c year later might not look so “good” and can get same look w/ diff configurations)
Always a pleasure watching your vids Matt. Love what your doing for the trades!
Also, hate when boxes filled w/ mud when gotta do sparky work, it’s a let peeve of mine, b/c it can be avoided w/ taking a few steps during electrical rough in, and drywall prep (imo)
I agree with a squared base board collecting dust but only takes a couple of minutes to dust off with a paintbrush an entire open plan living area. I reckon this flush trim trend looks very sterile like a hospital or something.
We’ve done something similar but with the door jambs we had the door shop kerf the face of the jamb at a 1/4” reveal and ran the jambs the same width as the framing. Then we used mud beads and ran one leg into the kerf on the jamb. It doesn’t give the completely flat look but is another way to do a trim less look. It looks like the Sheetrock dies onto the face of the jamb. We used soss invisible hinges to give it that sleek modern look as well. And yea, these details are exorbitantly more expensive.
Hi Mark, Im in the process of ordering door jambs, I want to the most minimalist look possible. That means I only want the door to show and not the jamb or frame or Kerf. It's easy to do that with Aluminum or steel frames, but I have not seen that with wooden James or kerf. Your post is interesting, it looks like you may have solved that problem? are you able to share some pictures of your doors and how you overcame that problem?
If you use an applied bead the bead and mud add 1/8" to the thickness of the drywall so if you use 5/8 drywall you need 3/4" trim to flush.
If you cannot get the reglet bead, rabbit the base and use a deep reach tearaway bead. The framing need to be almost perfectly flat or you need room to shim the base or drywall to each other for a straight flat finish
So true. Using Frye Reglet, I had to shim nearly every stud to compensate for irregularities. Built-up 1/16” ram board strips behind the aluminum. This kind of work HAS to be flawless, or it just looks sh-t. God, I’m having flashbacks…
If you have done this before make sure your base board is an 1/8 thicker than your sheet rock - remember the plastic detail trim is around an 1/8 .
In metric we use 13 mm wall board and 15.5 to 16 mm base board.
And yes I’ve done around 2000 m of this detail, it’s time consuming hence expensive.
Love the trimtex Mat wish we could get them here in New Zealand
PS just installed a house lot of Brombal windows- WOW that stuff is fantastic.
You visited a project a while back with that- are you going to do a follow up?
Matt, have you ever looked into AluBase Shadowline by EZ Concept? We love the reveal detail on flush baseboards and will be doing it on our upcoming custom build. The AluBase is a single product that has the reveal bead already built in - not sure if it’s a cost effective product, working on getting pricing.
Working on a house in auburn Alabama with a trim less detail and ULTRA modern details on cabinets, lights, fixtyres etc. love it and love
That. I can basically tune in ans get tips :)
Definitely appreciate the amount of planning and skill that goes into this, but for my money I’d prefer some classic craftsman looks or a modern take on it.
I don’t disagree. I did a hybrid traditional/contemporary trim design at my house
@@buildshow would love to see a Similar walk through to this one at your place with your trim package and how you staged that aspect of your build. Great video matt!
I would be interested in seeing a video about how to do these modern details 90% as good for 25% the cost... In the same vein as the recent spec home airtightness video.
LMAO
You would just not level 5 all the walls. Use cheaper materials, you could likely use 1/2" drywall and 1/2" thick trim and do less work there. Would still be a little more expensive tho as it is more work for everybody to get flush baseboards and casings. As the trim's entire purpose is to hide those unfinished edges, instead you're now finishing those edges and flushing them up to the trim. Getting the reveals perfect, etc.
I think most of it would be how easy you could make it on the trades. First of all, im yet to see a house with straight flat walls and straight flat floors (under 2 million). If you are going to use solid 1x you will be able to see every dip in the floor. So now you have to hire the expensive concrete guy and framers, and im assuming use a more robust or higher quality studs and joists. Then, you have to convince drywallers to install it exactly 6" up, all around the house. The trades ( that Matt doesnt use) dont get paid crap. In my area, the more skilled trades get about 200$ a day cash, thats working 8 hrs of physical labor in texas heat. No sick time, no vacation time. If they paid taxes then its 35% less than that.
So the ones that are highly skilled and have a good rep, can do matts houses, and take all the extra time and call backs to make it perfect. And they are probably paid accordingly.
But if you were to build a house, it would be hard enough finding fair priced decent labor to even show up.
So if you wanted to achieve matts details, it would be more about the trades than the actual materials, in my opinion
90% as good for 25% of the cost does not exist. It's all in the labor and labor is up 100-300% over 2019 in most trades. Finish carpenters are the most expensive day rate you will find. Cheaping out at all on this will result in wavy work.
@@srt4b yep.
In my experience, many doors rely on the trim to stabilize the jambs to prevent twisting. Do you see the flex caulk providing the same amount of stability?
I don't think it would need any additional stabilization. Not that what you're saying isn't the case for some installations, but I don't see a properly built jamb (with possibly higher grade lumber) bowing to a point where it would need bracing along the edge. If you notice, even their "paint grade" lumber is custom milled poplar
Would love to see the process on a remodel where your removing trim and replacing with trim-tex on a window for example. Which bead would you recommend for that?
@matt risinger as much as love watching you on RUclips and all, your build show website is awesome especially the team you have collected and allow them to host videos. Reminds me of the old days of this old house, the new yankee workshop, & other shows grew up watching b/c PBS was only station allowed to watch growing up, otherwise…..it was: go outside and play till dinner, just don’t come back w/ anything broken 😉 Nothing like how things are today, especially when there are no trees/woods behind your house (or field, neighbors house, etc) you can explore and play in when live in HOA and the neighborhoods w/o concrete fences and subdivisions are hard to find when don’t live in certain areas
If you're a Homeowner or Builder on a hi-end project going with level 5 smooth wall, strongly consider Fry Rigglet (aluminum).
*Fry Reglet
That’s what I used. It’s really good AND really $$$, but if you want it done right…
Matts been hovering around the sub million mark for ages now, almost there Matt! keep up the good content
You inspired me to try the flush base, revel in my basement. Getting ready to but floor and base in. Here in atlanta, hard to find trim tex w/o a special order and the ENTIRE box which is too much waste @trimtex
Anyone need 5/8 x 1/2 revel...got plenty
Hard to find a lot of the the “unique” stuff he talks about on the show here in Atlanta. I had to order a lot of things online when I built my house.
@@macgyver03ga exactly. Online went away I believe
I need a channel like this one but with UK construction.
Great content thanks
Matt those flush baseboards are really something to behold. When you install these do you only recommend white wall & trim paint to match the baseboards (although I assume you apply flat paint on the walls and a satin finish on the trim)
Hi Matt
Great video, long time subscriber and always learning better methods thanks to you. I have a modern 20k sf home I’m preparing to build for a client. I’d love to see a video on integrated gutters with in wall downspout. A builders nightmare! I’ve heard many horror stories but haven’t see fist hand a bulletproof way to pull this off. Got anything? Thanks in advance!
Hey Matt. I'm a trim carpenter. Just curious what trim pricing came in per/ft2? I average around 3-$3.25 for a traditional style house...
$3.25???? Where?
@@markbuildstx des moines, IA metro
@@jeffb321 what’s all included in that? All of this here in the video? I do purchasing for a builder and we are paying about .45 cents to install doors, trim, closet shelves, and attic ladders, hardware. A little extra for stairs. But nothing near $1
@@markbuildstx sounds very cheap, they must all be illegals that work for you. working for free almost.
has anyone ever answered you on the internet for pricing? time, plus material, plus overhead, equals cost
Would love to see a video of how the painters go about painting the wall in the area where it transitions to base moulding!
Id love to see flush outlets and switches. Idk if thats a thing but it sounds trick. Imagine flush rectangle Luton Maestro..
Check out Bocci flush outlets. They look pretty stunning but the install is a bit ridiculous.
We do this on all of our trimless houses. The added cost in labor and materials is substantially higher. Our customers choose upgraded switches as well, commonly Pass & Seymour Adorne or Buster & Price, the result is usually $80-125k upgrade. The aesthetics is unmatched for the cleanest, timeless look
imagine some kind of flush small utility box with a door that closes and is seamless- ie you'd mount your outlet inside the box and close the door- the door is the coverplate and can be opened to conveniently access additional outlets and other (think coaxial, fiber, ethernet) inside the enclosure, or the door could be replaced or modified to add outlets for them. The entire home could be wired up this way with redundant and extra capacity, with all electrical components fully grounded inside of a metal enclosure, and only wire running between them. This could substantially improve fire safety and if an outlet burns out, replacement would also be easier.
I have done these once, never again. Have to charge around $400/outlet in total to make any money. Inspectors hate them as well. Do a few in kitchens now only.
@@srt4b Have you tried the Trufig? With their adjustable depth, they are actually quite simple. Yes, plaster guys need to do a really fine job floating walls around each outlet but it’s something they’ve accepted at this point. No doubt the price is substantial but we’ve never had customer decline once they see the end result from previous job. We did a 4’ x 2’ mock-up maybe 2 years ago now so customers can see the finish during planning stages. We’re fortunate to be in a market that supports this level of workmanship.
If all you’ve done is DesignMod plates, I agree, never again. The Trufig is a vastly superior and adaptable design.
Looks nice and clean. For me though it's not worth the extra work and expense. Traditional trim looks beautiful. BTW, level 5 drywall is a b**ch! You think you're done until you shine a bright light at an angle and you see all the imperfections! Haha
What brand is that white oak floor, love the look
I like the belt and suspenders approach to that trim.
Hi I was actually thinking of doing a detail like this with the tear away bead prior to finding this video, but was concerned if the doors are slammed that an immediate break line would be visible. How in your experience has the durability of this detail stood the test of time?
this has been the Archi driven hipster detail in my region since the early 00's. personal preferences aside just make sure you make it hurt or you will lose profit and think VERY carefully thru sequence because in many cases where different finishes are adjacent you will have to schedule multiple leap-frog sub phases. This is an aspirational show-off detail and most often reflects more money than sense so if CD's come your way consider it a plea for 'please take my money so i can complain about how expensive my build is' at the Country Club and take as much as you can.
I’m sure this was sponsored by Trim Tex but last quote I got was .70/foot from them and just over $1.40 for aluminum trim from Fry Reglet. For that difference I’ll take the real stuff any day of the week and twice on the weekend.
Our house was trimless, i installed the trims myself, and it made the house more formal in my opinion.
Thank you very much for this interesting video.
Matt, do you have a show on HGTV? If not, WHY NOT? Always great info bro 😎!
Beautiful work.
What brand and color paint was used for this one if you don’t mind?
Kinda reminds me of my 140 year old victorian. After the plaster was leveled to base boards then the actual trim was applied on top.
Just curious - the stairs are already in and they're really close to the wall but not touching - how do you get paint there? or will that just stay primed?
I'm curious what with the internal doors are on that house 32 in, ?
Can anyone inform me how the vertical door jamb legs are wider than normal? I have tried discussing it with the various sellers of interior doors, and not one company seems to be able to provide the thicker door jamb for the finished case-less door look accomplished in the video.
Much appreciated!
Hi Matt. I saw your video on the bug proofing. My house already has Tyvek up. Can I still use Zip liquid flash on the outside to prevent bugs?
You are showing a different method of the flush base. Previously you had a z shadow bead and cut a rabbit on the back of the base to cover the edge. It looks like you use an F reveal this time. My question with the F reveal as it sits on the wood base do you see the plastic edge? The other method is the base overlaps. Anyone know?
Hey Matt can you make a video on protection and the products you use?
Do you any distributor that ships to the US? None of my local distributors have the F reveal bead?
Nice work you are on the ball 🙌. As a contractor the cost $$$$$$ .
My remodel is fairly detailed with chair rail, crown molding, wainscoting, etc., but wanted no shoe molding. Boy, talking about a pain in the butt! The floor had to go down before the base that complicated a lot! Can't imagine going full trimless. Though, I suspect there is a LOT less cut-in while painting. 😀
Love trim Tex products.
How do you get around the code requirements for gaps in the risers in that open stair? Looks like those risers have an open back of several inches.
The gaps will still be less than the 4" minimum required by code, the reason the treads themselves on these kinds of stairs are so deep is make sure that is the case.
Oh man so much more work for modern trim. I feel like it looks to sterile for me, personally, but it's neat to see how it comes together!
Trim less looks unfinished but the beauty of it , it is your house to finish however you would like. For the ROI is bad. It is a trendy niche market.
Do drywallers have to remove the factory tapered edge at the bottom so the Trim Tex doesn't twist when it is glued and stapled along the bottom edge?
They probably lay a cut sheet to start or feather it out, they are mudding the entire walls afterall.
Anybody have expirience with thier expansion joint product? As the climate gets worse I'm finding my 70's home with a ton of cracks in the drywall due to the clay soil drying up. Would that be a good product to use?
Thank you so much for video 🙏🏻
Nice! However, i would love to see the base be left nature wood, same species as the floors
That's an interesting idea!
Haven’t done that. I like that idea
lots of commercial building have this detail. It's fine. Hides the vacuum scuffs as well.
We've been doing wood flooring on the ceiling to match. Good look.
Did u remove the plywood when popler was installed
He would have to remove it. It’s in the spot the poplar goes.
Yea. Correct
Great content ❤️❤️❤️
Nice Intro Music. Classy, contemporain
Dont you see that bottom leg of the F bead sitting on top of the poplar? I know this is kind of a nit picky detail but these folks who like and willing to pay for these details tend to be of the nit picky breed in my experience. I was thinking Z bead would be a better option. Run a slot in top edge of the base first with a router and a 3 wing slot cutter. Over cut the slot depth a bit for some wiggle room to adjust the bead up/down. The slot should also help keep the drywall and base flush/co-planer if the framing is off a touch. This would also allow you to NOT have to paint the base incase the owner likes the look of matching the base to the floor which also might look good. I also agree, between cost of the ubber expensive FRy reglet plus the extra labor costs it becomes a detail reserved for the 1% Been a long time user of trim-tex and love all the options and price point.
Maybe bc the poplar is being painted to match that f bead won't be visible?
@@renelopez8227 Most paying what Matt charges would still notice plus it gives dirt one more crack/ledge for dirt to collect. which over time will cause the seam/joint to become a black/darker line against a white background and stick out like a sore thumb. Also if painting after as the video shows you would also have to worry about expansion contraction more and vinyl tend to move A LOT and at a much different rate then wood. So if the bead contracts and or expands a little later it has the potential to develop a hairline crack between the bead and base, once again making a black line. Since the joint between the F bead and the base is near the face it will show much more easily. With the Z bead any movement/cracking issues will be near the back "and" will be hidden much better by the shadow of the joint. Sorry but the Z bead is a much better detail on all levels and since there is no price difference between the F and Z bead why not choose the better of the 2 options.
Hey I’m from Indiana would love to visit this place and see what there all about
Why wouldn't you just paint the trim boards first or at least prime them? Much easier to paint and cut into primed lumber.
I thought the same.
I would agree
Be cool to see the visual example of the video topic in the first second of the video
What is called modern here has been standard for 40 years in Europe. Minimalist means less cost, less maintenance, easier cleaning = more hygienic . Example baseboards: Seamless baseboards easier to clean. Flat doors, no crevices where dust can build up. Wall mounted toilets allow cleaning underneath and behind…
Matt may have made a small finish detail mistake using the Big Stretch caulking as he describes in this video. I want to stress the "may" part of this. As a professional house painter I rarely even suggest Big Stretch for interior finished detail joins like this, as it is designed to stretch, a lot (as the name implies). This can cause the finished paint film to crack as the caulking underneath it moves as the differing material move with age, and house movement. I save the Big Stretch for exterior use, and use a caulking that isn't as flexible for interior details, such as described here. Since Matt is building such nice, custom houses, this is one detail that could cause a call back a year, two, or 5 down the road. Again I stress the may part, as the crack he is filling looks to be small enough to not matter.
Using a timber jamb pocket door and tear away bead for that finish is the wrong detail to start with. There are pocket doors that have the jamb with a bead already part of it, as one piece, ready to mud. Leaving no joins anywhere.
@@CarbideEndMill This is good to know. Like I said I'm a painter. So I am not nearly so knowledgeable about the carpentry aspect of building. Which is part of why I like to watch these videos. I learn a lot, which I also like to do about pretty much everything.
Wouldn't this would impact the wall assembly's fire rating?
Solid blocking at the base so it maintains the rating
Thank you.
The only way I see that base detail working is if you unscrew the plywood "seat" after the gyp. bd. is set. Is that the intent? Otherwise you have plywood flushing out with the finish face of the gyp. bd. and nowhere to park your F-bead.
How do You maintain the Fire 🔥 Rating w a combustible Base ??
Wasn't trim first created to help cover those joins that were difficult to get visually right, making it easier.
What is tbe point for flush trim? Looks institutional and sterile. No thanks.
I don’t see where he said you had to do it?
Perfect if you want your house to look like an office building.
This is probably a really silly question Matt, but why couldn't you just use the same type of drywall, cut in separate piece, in place of the poplar for the base boards?
Typically want a hardy material at the base of walls that can resist wear and moisture
I just watch on you tube Shoyan Japanese Carpenter; he is building a Japanese house. It is very interesting how they build a house in Japan. It is a timber frame type of building with mortise and tenon but with bolt and nuts no pegs to hold the joints and the building comes from the factory with all the mortise and tenon cut in.
@ 6:42 LoL 😂
lol went digging through the comments just for this
Our 1942 house has a "flush base" and a shoe at floor itself, cover the edge of the oak floor. We painted it white, like the rest of the trim. Pops with the color on the walls.
Walls are lath-and-plaster. When the electricians tried to cut into the wall, the dremel just skipped over the surface. The house is solid--doug fir framing, external trim is (old growth) redwood. External stucco was made from local river sand.
5/8 drywall would necessitate true 3/4 base because the “F” bead adds 1/8” at the bottom of the drywall. The bead is floated in....they won’t be in the same plane if you don’t order the base thicker!
Those baseboards are begging for LED light strips 😅🙌🏽
No flush receptacles?
Here's hoping trimless never catches on
No style is for everyone
Put all aluminum reglets in my total renovation. Baseboard, doors, windows and ceiling.
This would have been much easier.
Matt: Hey supply house, I need to order some cardboard sheathing
Supply House: NO Way Matt. has inflation really gotten to your business?
Matt: haha no! I need them to cover my finished floors.
Lmao
part of me likes the look but reminds me of a commercial space like a nice office building
I’m sorry but I don’t think the modern stuff looks better than traditional. Sometimes you just can’t fix what’s already good and just because it’s been around for a long time doesn’t mean there is something better. Oak trees have been growing on this planet for millions of years and they still look awesome.
Not digging the new mondern details
Probably because you don’t have a modern home
👍👍😉
Using that crappy cardboard sheathing to protect the floors 😂😂 that's brutal.
A lot of work but looks great
I did a high rise with this shadow trim detail what a pain in the butt
Modern is great, but modern designs tend to translate that into less and less detail. The future of minimalist modern design is going be bare flat ceiling to walls from ceiling to floors. Cool, big plain boxes. Mmmm.
How do we get in touch with Matt , would like him to visit our custom home in Dallas
Rissinger Homes. He’s featured some amazing Dallas builders on this channel. (Edit: just realized y’all aren’t looking to hire)
@@TRAZ4004 Just a clown looking for a free plug on a very popular home builder page. Very sleazy 🤦♂️
While I appreciate the work and skill that goes into the modern style trim. For me personally, it just looks terrible. Too industrial looking. I wouldn’t wanna live in a house like that. I’m just an old school guy. Give me a nice Second Empire, or Queen Anne, style. I know it’s completely out of style, but I’ll take 8 inch high, quartersawn, white oak baseboards, multi section crown mounding, and gorgeous plasterwork any day.
I sent you a video because I think this is what we need to do. Let me know if you agree and I will get it set up for you.
Rich weirdos concerning themselves with the mundane...I was doing work for a famous philly designer in the early 2000's. That flush molding stuff was a rage for a while...Our work is already stressful enough! Doing things that KILLLLLLL the time make it even harder to make a buck and finding guys that can produce it is like finding an honest politician...You really can't charge enough. You can make more money doing it the tried and true way, via production...I HATE that finish, just incase I'm being ambivalent...: )
You sound like you've also had architects,builders, and interior decorators piss on your head and tell you it's raining. We should start a club
@@xX.D3DP00L_Xx We'd have to have meetings in a Football stadium, ...:)
I just see these nice houses and think "these people dont have kids" 🤣🤣🤣
What a nightmare for everyone involved lol. Personally I appreciate the imperfection of natural textures and materials, a house like this is just waiting for problems to start exposing themselves.
looks a bit clinical hospital hallway
protect that railing huh?
I'm sorry, I'd end up gutting a modern house to recreate the "Brady Bunch" house.