Sandro, This has to be the best product review you’ve ever done. So thorough, so relevant, and so considerate. I’ve used 3D One for quite some time, and fully concur with your findings. Once you learn how the compound behaves through a variety of settings and constraints, a lot of the product’s effectiveness is in your own hands and technique. I’ve achieved a mirror finish on metals of all things with 3D One, but it was largely because I understood the parameters and thresholds involved. I’d love for you to do a modern two-step compound and polish episode one day, involving similar brands and pairing their own products accordingly. That would be a ton of work, but it would also show just how knowledgeable and experienced you are in the process. Thanks again for such rich content.
Thanks Justin and I think comparing a few popular cut and polish systems could be a great video as it’s still perhaps the most used correction process today and I’m glad you enjoyed this review!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Which of these 3 products do you think I should use is more permanent and the effect is long.... i was caught between auto glym alex hybrid, scholl s20 black real and 3d 510 cake, which one do you think I should buy you seem to be very experienced in this regard???
The lasting effect is permanent with all of them, they are not filling or masking defects, they are permanently removing the defects so the only way the defects return is if they are created again on the paint. Just choose the one you thought best addressed your working style and results.
@Kelden Dance if you can find it, get Griot’s FCC and use it for cutting with a quality MF pad. Meguiars makes a good pad if LC isn’t available or affordable. 3D One IMO is great for when you need a long cycle and a second step for clarity. Because it can work for so long it needs a bit more time to help you conclude ‘you’re done.’ Griots perfecting cream is phenomenal as a last/third step, especially with their paired pads. But understand, I’m assuming you have the money and patience to find this recipe’s intricacies. Believe it or not, any of these products have the flexibility to be a one-step. FCC with a softer pad will blow your mind and get you 85-90% there. 3D One won’t get P1500 scratches out, but damn-close with a wool pad. You just have to understand what you’re asking these products to do, with what pad, on what clear coat. Hope that helps.
A couple things not mentioned, which I think are important, is first of all; oil content. Scholl S20 Black has a very low oil content of around 3-5%, whereas 3D One has an oil content up around 15%. This is significant when wiping off prior to a ceramic coating application, as the less oil that's used, the easier this will be - this is also one of the things Scholl changed with the updated formula of S20 Black. The other thing, is that all of these compounds use DAT aluminium oxide technology (diminishing abrasive), so technically, the longer you work the polish, the finer the finish should become. Some of these have quite aggressive aluminium oxide, and so they will cut more with a shorter work time, but should finish down nicely once worked for a longer time. S20 Black is just pure witchcraft for mine. Low oil content, very versatile as it can be used on hard and soft paints and you can adjust the finish you get with your pad choice and technique used with the machine. It's still the best all round polish out there, IMO.
I was just about to comment on this as well! Well put together comment :). What turned me away from 3D one was the wipe off process. I’m excited to be trying out S20 Black soon!
@@knpgn I didn't have any problems wiping off either product, it's just interesting that Scholl use such a low oil content, when basically every other company use a much higher oil content for easy wipe off.
@@Disciple11 Interesting! I always thought that the oil content was related to lubricating the abrasives within the compound. I always found that 3D one filled up my pads and wipe off towels very quickly. Maybe its difference in tolerance when it comes to wiping off 😅. Any tips for wiping off 3D one? Ive been using 350gsm low pile towels and carpro eraser as my wipe off process. Cheers!
@@knpgn the oil serves a few purposes in a polish - one of which is lubricating the abrasive, but it's mostly for consistency of use throughout the polishing process, stopping the polish from drying out, and making it easier to buff off. I would use a better panel wipe there. In my experience, Eraser is lacking quite a bit and can leave a residue from the soaps in it. Try using a strictly alcohol based one and see if it improves for you.
I recently used s20 black on a Kia Sportage using Lake country orange pads. Someone had scraped across the rear door and qtr panel with bike handle bars. I wax expecting to have to wet sand the area but gave s20 a go first. It took everything out in a couple of passes and finished perfectly. I couldn't believe it. Finished it off with NV lustre for extra gloss . Great video once again Sandro.
Thanks for the comparison Sandro. I believe 3D promotes ONE as a "pad dependent" single paint correction polish vs. a one step polish. i.e. use an aggressive pad and you'll get good cut, use a light polishing pad and it will finish out great.
This actually works for every compound and polish. Its why you should always test different combinations because paint systems vary quite a bit these days. You'll be surprised by what you find.
My pleasure mate and absolutely agree with 3Ds assessment of One in that case but I also have to agree with 5hift6ear that one of the wonderful things about good modern car compounds is that they are all very pad and technique dependant and it really amazing how well modern compounds can cut finish these days compared to their older counterparts.
@@5hift6ear If every polish/compound can cut great and finish out great, pad dependent, and every polish/compound can be a one-step, and every paint is different, then I'm confused as to the point of why would anyone ever do comparisons.
@@mutatedgenome Its more about catering your pad/product to the paint system you are working on and what kind of results you are after. There really isn't a single product that will perform perfectly on every single paint system, this is why before you correct an entire car it is important to dial in your combo in a single area and then go from there, you don't want to have to do the work twice. There are caveats to this as well such as repainted panels, blending jobs, etc. The entire car could have harder paint but the single repainted panel could be softer or vice versa and would require a different combo to get the results you desire in some cases. The good news is abrasive technology has come such a long way that as long as you surround yourself with quality products you won't have any issues. Having various pads/abrasives that vary in aggressiveness is ideal, but for a weekend warrior 3D One and a variety of pads should be able to achieve the desired results.
I would give the Sonax EX04-06 a try 👍🏾 Did my black Volvo with it. Nice (!) cut, and a high gloss. It slings if to much product is used, 0 dust. 2 downsides hard to clean out of the pad (a curd soap bar will fix that) and no easy wipe off.
3D One is my No.1 go to Polish on sticky paints!!! It's lubrication is phenomenal! Scholl S20 is my go to One-Step or medium polish at all! Love these two liquids! Sonax is just a pain in the butt to clean out of pads...
I've decided to dive into scholl compounds and pads. Purchased S2 black, S20 black and S30, along with their full range of spider pads, and the two ninja pads in both 3" and 5" sizes. Will be testing them on my personal vehicle soon.
Same!!! Except I usually only carry cutmax and perfect finish in the field. Such great compounds. Although the dusting can be a bit much, since I’m constantly in direct sunlight. Rinses out of pads relatively easily also! Pad washers ftw
Sonax are my key compounds too. For some reason they never dust when I use them. I always work inside I am using a lot of Rupes, meguiars and KochChemie as well, but they surely dust way more than Sonax. I use EX05-05 instead of cut and finish and I have to agree that it is not easy to get a great finish. Kochchemie has much better one step F06 in that regard
I want also to admit you have jumped to another level with this review Sandro! All your reviews are good, but this one was made in a new manner and I like it very much! Appreciate your own thoughts, advices and feeling. One old man told me once: advice is a very good thing because you can listen it and never use it. And I see how gentle with all of us you are, saying all the time - this is my personal feeling, etc, etc, and this is VERY correct I think Sandro. Great video and thanks for sharing! I have never use any of them but you never know what will be tomorrow))) Cheers from Sweden.
3D One is my go to for many reasons you stated, when i need a little more cut, i combine it with ACA500 , 3D has more Lubrification that prolong working times, many detailers find it to oily because they use too much products . when finishing with 3D One ,i use a black finishing pad from Lake Country and get awesome gloss finish., or the new Rupes white finishing pad. i cut with Lambwool pads most of the time, or Buff n Shine Uro 50-50... Thank You for a Great Video! ;-)
are you buffing to perfection? I've only done 4 cars, but I've used 3d one with either a Orange lake country foam pad or yellow rupes foam pad and took out 95 percent of defects and don't need to polish. maybe I could make it perfect, but I feel like that would be 50 percent more effort for 5 to 10 percent more improvement. not really worth it unless you going for perfection.
I also just tried out a rotary for the first time with a lake country wool pad but had a tremendous amount of sling. it almost looked like I was slinging water but the pad was dry before I put 3d one on it, so it was obviously product. I'm assuming I either put to much product on or didn't massage it in the wool when I primed it, or maybe I started to fast. what do you think I was doing wrong ?
@@brianhenry7983 - Might be too much product or technique. You don't need much 3D ONE. I had a similar experience when I got my first rotary back in the 90's. I was using Meguiar's M02 Fine Cut Cleaner on a Meguiar's wool pads. It was a MESS!
3d One is King. Especially on Rotary or RO where you don't need to wipe down until after the polish stage. One product for all stages just change the pads. Working time is so long. 3d One will cut out heavy defects on a wool/MF pad. S20 Black probably best as just a single stepper with the purple spider.
I’ve used sonax products for the last 5 years and Sonax perfect finish is my favourite on gloss enhancement. I’ve tried Sonax cut / finish on bmw ( hard paint) and still…. I wasn’t happy with the results. So I’ve used Sonax perfect finish after…😜🤩 So what you’ve done is a truthful video / review. You said and show it how it is .. thank you very much for doing this video!! Great job as always!! Hi from Uk !! 👍💪👏
6:04 That also happens to SPF (Sonax Perfect Finish) when I'm using it on my hot and humid garage, specially on softer paints. If I use it in the shop with the A/C blowing out penguins though, it wipes off like a breeze (most products work better in A/C) unless I'm polishing a buttery soft Fiat or Subaru and I overwork it. I'd also advise you try out Sonax Perfect Finish instead of Cut & Finish as IMO it's their best one step product and their best product PERIOD. It's my go to for one steps and also for 2 stage corrections as it finishes flawlessly on pretty much any finish. There will always be that one car where you have to use a primer polish, but they are rare. I've always wanted to try out Scholl Concepts S20 Black since I first saw it in a video in like late 2017 or early 2018, but never really bit the bullet cuz only the euro shops carried it with heavy shipping penalties. After watching you work with it and hearing such praise now I wanna give it a go and Corey actually carries this product so I can pay the shipping no problem :)
@@johnboy2436 I've tried pretty much every compound under the sun but my "go to" has been Jescar Correcting Compound. It's cheap, easy to work with, has a good consistency, wipes off neatly without a fight, cuts extremely well, the finish is not bad considering how well it cuts (you WILL have to follow it up with polish unless you're working on those granite hard clear coats like the Mercedes G wagons for example), it basically doesn't dust so long as you clean out your pads very well/completely after you're done with them (and keep them clean during the job, residue control is very important for any compound/polish so you keep getting good and consistent results from start to finish), it's water based, etc. I have nothing bad to say about that compound and highly recommend it for pros or noobies alike. Nowadays you can use pretty much any compound you like, though, as most modern compounds perform incredibly well and produce excellent results if used correctly. THE most important part of the equation is actually the person using the product. Work on your technique, be aware of what you're doing wrong and causing you bad results and also what you're doing right and causing good results and you'll just keep getting better and better. You could literally give me a polisher with some microfiber pads and some polishing pads and I could still take some absolutely thrashed paint and make a huge improvement to it using body lotion instead of compound or polish. If you haven't polished anything before and are just starting out, I'd recommend you buy a bottle of perfect finish with some yellow rupes pads or some orange, lake country HDO pads and polish a really swirled up finish. You'll be surprised at how easy it is to make a massive improvement on a car's finish even without prior experience :) You can buy the Scholl Concepts S20 black instead if you wanna try that out and just use it with the same pads. There are other good pads out there that you could get good results with, but those are just some that came to mind and that I've personally used plenty and had excellent results with.
@@groundcontrol6876 Thank you so much so iv ordered 6 rupes yellow foam pads and 6 rupes white foam pads for my DA. Here in the UK tho i cant seem to get hold of Jescar Correcting Compound. But iv just bought Sonex perfect finish. Is there another compound i can get thats just as good as jescar? ill be following up with sonex perfect finish.
@@johnboy2436 Honestly, it sounds like you’re completely new to this, so my suggestion would be to just use the combo you already bought (the Sonax perfect finish with the Rupes yellow, since white is much too fine to do any real correction) and go from there. Unless your car is in really, really bad shape, I think you’ll be very pleased with the results you get with just that combo alone. I’ve one stepped a lot of cars with SPF and a yellow pad, so assuming your car isn’t completely knackered, or it’s a really, really hard clear coat, you should be very happy with the results without having to use a compound. Plus, you’ll get practice with the machine and work up a rhythm/muscle memory as to how to polish. What polisher do you have by the way? I’m curious to know (you don’t need the latest, most expensive Rupes/Flex tool on the market to get incredible results, remember, it’s more about your technique, working on clean, properly prepped paint, and controlling the residue by blowing out your pads between with compressed air and/or swapping out for a clean one when they’ve been caked up with spent polish and other residue. Anyway… if you give this a try and you still need more cut, then I’m gonna ask you which compounds do you have available? So I can suggest one or a few. But really, wash your car well, clay it (or clay a section like the trunk lid or the bonnet)dry it and then polish that section just to test it out. You’re likely gonna be surprised and pretty happy with the difference you made with one step :) Remember, you can always do another polishing set if the first one left a few swirls behind, and also remember that it doesn’t have to be perfect to look amazing, all you have to do is make an improvement and I’m sure it’ll leave a grin on your face.
@@groundcontrol6876 The car is in amazing shape. It doesnt really have swirls either, its just got some marks here and there that you can see under certain angles/lighting. Its the new Megane RS. I want it in perfect condition if possible. I got 6 rupes yellow, 6 white rupes pads, 6 uro-fibre 50/50 pads and maybe like a blue wool pad or something like that. Its a long throw DA, not sure what brand i know its of good wattage and its powerful. I used it on my parents car with HD speed and a yellow rupes pad and they had ALOT of swirls and it corrected like 80 percent. I know HD speed contains fillers but the level of correction was great. I didnt go too much was it was my first time and i wanted to keep the clear coat thick. I got g6 compound, meguiars ultimate polish, HD speed, Sonex perfect finish and menzerna 3800. Also have a sealant called poorboys EX-p. I bought alot of this awhile ago to get into it but only used recently on parents car and it turned out good and using the buffer felt natural. Only issue was my pad head in 5 inch and my pads are 6 inch. So i have to kinda use the buffer on an angle here and there to get to some sections but i also worry than because of an edge in the bodywork it will put more pressure and ill burn though. But as far as iv seen a DA is good for not making that mistake. I was going to go in with Sonex PF with a white part from minor correction but a good finish. The cars really really glossy as it,i want it showroom. I bought this menzerna 3000 and wondered also if i should just one step that with a white pad. Again not much correction is needed but i also want a really glossy finish if thats even possible with how good it already is. Was going to step up to a yellow pad if needed. May do a test section with both white and yellow as this car is my daily and i want to keep the integrity of the clear coat as much as possible. Id rather only do a major correction when needed. I want minior correction but that showroom finish. Extra glossy. Thanks so much
Another great in depth review. We appreciate all the time, effort, and money you put into your videos. It really showcases your experience which has a direct outcome what is reported on camera. Which is difficult to do. Every time I watch other RUclipsr’s finish a car, I always say in my mind how Sandro would have finished better. At least what we see on camera. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge. Best wishes
One thing a cracking video the other is thanks for the e mail from BMAC You have tought me and give me the confidence in detailing my own car but I can't get close to your professional detailing
Been testing many brands lately, and keep coming back to Scholl Concepts, S2 Black, S20 Black and S30+, it gives me a faster and BETTER overall results, solid performance.
Great review I have used 3d one on Peugeot and VW ³d one fineshed down well on these paint types but I found ³d one clogged up my pads even though I cleaned them after each pass Plus It almost put a film like coating on my padd after using it for long periods but did not dust to much had great lub Love the review keep them coming In Sandro we trust
You're probably using too much product. I use this product almost daily at work. I find that I can "stretch" ONE a bit because of its lubrication and non diminishing abrasives. Stretching polish is when I clean out my pad with a brush to knock the loose particles out, I'll sometimes wipe the pad with a microfiber towel too. From there I'll touch the pad to the paint to see how much moisture is in it, and begin polishing again. Occasionally I might need to add a small drop or two to the pad. With 3D ONE, less is usually more. Only when doing some heavier cutting do I use more product.
I know I may get beat up on it but I still love Meg's 205 for a one step. It doesn't do great with deeper defects but for some defect removal, great gloss and super easy to wipe off it's hard to beat. I do like 3D one and Sonax perfect finish, there just a little oily in my opinion. I don't like struggling to wipe off a polish. I always respect your opinion and appreciate everything you do for the detailing community. I would like to try the Scholl S 20 black, not sure if we can get it in the states. Thanks Sandro.
I think the detailing world has a lot of thanks to give to M105 & M205! I still remember trying them back in the day and they where truly amazing and innovating compounds at that time which forced other brands to step up there game and they have definitely stood the test of time which says a lot! Thanks mate!
I use M205 for the first time in a long time. I had been a strong Meguiar's user since 1996. It wasn't until I tried 3D that something knocked Megs out of my top spot. But last week I used Meguiar's at work. I was using M205 to cut and finish. The sides of this Porsche had extreme car wash damage. So I had to switch to M105. I used to get a ton of dust from M105, but I guess my approach improved! That M105 paired with Lake Country microfiber cutting pads did a GREAT job cutting down the compromised paint. I then used the M205 to refine. It was good to visit home with Meguiar's. I missed the feel, the wipe off, the scent... I also used a TON of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. I'm also really liking the newer M110 and M210. Nothing wrongs with Megs!
I had a Scholl S20 black bottle that had been sitting for about 4 years, i used it with rupes yellow wool pad, cut was fantastic on soft paint, but almost impossible to remove. i think that bottle migth have "expierd" as it has always been a nice experience both polishing, wipeoff and residue control.
I don't know what us novices would do without you sandro ,thanks mate no one on RUclips comes close to your content. I ordered the shine mate polish kit with pads and the 3 scholl polishes.Im ordering more lake country blue pads before I start paint correction and coating on my new car.I do also have McGuire's one step and finish polish so hopefully I will get the correct combination with what I have.Thanks mate 👍
Thank you Sandro for the great review. Outstanding work, especially great after you watched watched John from forensic detailing rumble about nothing for 15 minutes. Sandro, you are the best!
only two polish/compound im currently using is ultracut and reflect, i was experimenting with koch chemie but those two are just too easy to work with :)
Try having the clear coat in mind, just using ultracut and reflect may be way more than the paint needs. You may be doing a disservice to the paint because you are taking off unnecessary amounts of clear coat. I like to use the combination that gets the best results while preserving the amount of clear on the car. I love ultra cut though. You can do whatever you want mate, I’m not judging, just giving some advice.
@@connersmith2445 you are right but its really pad combination which removes clear coat, on my hard german paint it would be pointless trying to cut in with smg like s20
you should also try a farecla g3 premium vs 3d one.. im using farecla and it got a good cutting when using wool pad and gloss finish with a foam pad, just wonder how it will perform compare to 3d one..
F06 is a perfect cutting medium polish, cuts more than a 2500 menzerna. Still it's like glue while removing it and dusts like a real heavy compound. I will never understand why people like koch polishing line. H8 is more like a medium cutting polish, H9 cuts well with rotary and wool but only with low temperatures... Otherwise impossible to work with.
is this upto date on how you feel still? you still think the scholls is best? or had another product took your number 1 spot? looking for a good one step? cheers
S20 will always be a great compound and I still highly recommend it - whether or not it will be the best choice on a particular paint and it’s defects as well as your own working method is another question.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingyou mention its a compound but will it also finish down as a one step? I have sonex perfect finish but sometimes the cut is not enough.
I don’t think S20 will have substantially more cut than Perfect Finish, but it may actually finish better than it on softer paints - S20 does typically finish extremely well. If you want more cut I’d be looking at something like Scholl S2 Black - which is also a fantastic one-Step on medium to harder paints. You just have to appreciate that the paint type, it’s defects and your pad selection and technique is what’s going to determine whether any compound/polish will be a good one step.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingcould a lower speed not get most of swirls. I did a polish with an electric sander and had to lower the speed to not have it vibrate like crazy. I keep wondering if I would have done more correcting with more speed. I did do more passes incase.
If it’s just an oscillating sander it may not work well, you need a good dual motion free spinning action - if it has that then it should get you there in the end
Perfect finish can be used as a all in one in most cases it performs better in the category you test with a lil less cut also 3d has a wax in it so it might make finish look better than it really is.
I did always do an IPA wipe before assessing the results and I couldn’t see any filling from anyone of the compounds, like Dan Morrissette mentioned you may be confusing it with 3D Speed which is an AIO polish.
What would you suggest the best pad and compound combo for the likes of the hard clear coat you get on say a ve/vf holden commodore, as a one step? I tried 3d one and also scholl 1step with a 3d dark purple pad, and even though it was an ok finish, it didn't remove as mush swirls as I would of liked. I then tried 3d one with the yellow rupes wool pad. And ended up with similar results Much appreciate your feedback Sandro. Best videos on RUclips
I think if if those one step compounds with moderate wool pads aren’t removing the defects you may need to step up to to a more aggressive compound or maybe try altering your technique to tune it more towards cut - that is working smaller sections, maybe starting with slower machine speeds and pressure and then raising speed and pressure to finish off. It’s hard to say what is exactly going to work well for you without being there but if the defect removal isn’t happening to your liking, I’d just keep on slowly upping the aggression until both my combination and technique gets me there.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you mate much appreciated. I will make those adjustments and see how I go. I think the most aggressive compound I have at the moment is scholls heavy cutting compound. That should definitely do the trick. I actually forgot that I had that one in my arsenal. Cheers mate. And thank you once again. Your videos have helped me improve so much.
3D One is a one step or medium compound whereas Uno Protect is an all in one polish - so it fills and adds a sealant at the end - so it depends what you want out of that product as to which one to go for. Maybe if your new to polishing and it is a soft paint Uno Protect could be a better way to go - it won’t remove as many defects as 3D one bit should finish better.
You always have to do a test section as every paint and it’s defects are different, but generally speaking if it a soft paint you tend to finish better with a foam polishing or one step pad - yes you can use it with a rotary. This video may be worth a watch to get you started on the right direction: ruclips.net/video/6tepA3wjPbY/видео.htmlsi=OQY5ZNQjmLoiUJKG
I've been trying to polish my evo that I resprayed with COB and DEBEER air dry clear. It seems like a hard paint as I have spent a lot of time with sanding discs and various compounds but am having trouble getting a good finish. Would the debeer clear be classified as a hard paint as maybe that's my problem???
From what I’ve read it is quite a hard and durable clear coat like the newer ceramic clears so it’s probably going to be difficult and require lots of heavy refinement to get that good finish.
I have a 3D one compound and a DA. How can I remove micro marring or long micro scratches maybe mostly made by claying my car (done at a detailer) that was imported from Japan with heavy contamination. I am using Shinemate Blue medium pad(which i think cuts fairly less with my compound) and 2 local (but very good, praised by our local community)a step up from one another harsher foam pads as well. I only did like 2 passes. It removes swirls but not those micro scratches. And oh also I am a noob
When you get down to finishing well on soft Japanese paints it can sometimes be hard to identify what are existing swirls or micro marring and what the polish is leaving behind in term of marring. If it’s claying scratches you need to cut a little more to remove them, if it’s polish/pad induced swirls/marring you need find a better combination and technique for that paint to finish better. Maybe this video will help: ruclips.net/video/m6tbu3GrTWI/видео.html
Just watched this video - thank you so much. Would be interested to see your thoughts on DIY Detail Gold Standard now that is out in Australia (hoping it will be in UK soon) compared to these as well
I love 3D ONE. I'm using it nine times out of ten on all these cars we correct and coat where I work. But... You could give me Jescar Medium Polish and I can cover a lot of ground with it. The only reason I tend to go with ONE is that it's very easy to clean up off the trim or pebble black textured plastic, and rubber pieces. But interms of cut and finish, Jescar is probably a little more refined in the overall user experience. It's a diminishing abrasive, so it finishes down on a wider variety of finishes, where sometimes ONE will need a softer pad to deliver that level of gloss. The wipe of is also more reasonable. Just a hi quality feeling and performing product. It's "luxurious". I also used to use a lot of the Menzerna PF2500. Rupes Quarz and UHS were very good. Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 was very nice. Adam's Correction Polish (orange) was excellent. These medium polishes ate so much fun for me to use. I love when they can deliver more than expected.
Sandro a detailer/painter of my area told me Scholl has silicone in it, while the website says it doesn't , he says he doesn't use it cause it will ruin his paint spray, is it true ?
S20 Black along side many other Scholl compounds do not contain Silicone. Scholl Concepts does however have an absolutely massive range of compounds it produces and sells world wide, some of which I do believe contain silicones and other additives.
Love the videos, so much great information!! for general annual maintenance polishing using 3D One on a modern car with I would guess regular hardness, what would you recommend as a great all around pad choice the Rupes yellow or white? focusing on micro scratches and swirl removal and everyday usefulness shine and depth (not show car quality). Essentially with the White have enough cutting power to do anything?
I’ve only minimally test/tried AngleWax compounds so I may not be the best personal to ask. But generally I think they cut reasonably well but the finishing qualities is where I struggle a little more.
Hey Sandro! Nice review as always. I have to ask: on 3ds part of the summary, I noticed that after wiping off, there are some scratches. Where those in the paint or where caused by the compound or by the wipe off ? I ask because I have had same issues with some other brands. They are circular scratches so in my case, I think they are inflicted either by the machine or wiping off. What are your thoughts about?
Thanks. You’ll tend to get more consistent circular scratches when it’s the compound, pad or both producing them, and longer straight to wavy scratches when it’s the wipe off. In the video it was only the last soft black paint that produced some wiping swirls.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing well the scratches I'm talking about are similar to scratches at the end of the video. You say it's wiping but they look circular. The only thing is that indeed they are not that consistent. In my case they are more consistent but they are similar. If it was pad, compound or both, what's the advice?
Some of scratches at the end of the video panel are also produced by some the compounds, that’s when I talk about how they don’t all finish as well as each other, so those are also compounding swirls. To finish better you can try using less product on your pad, try a different pad and also a different polish. It’s always a little investigating and testing that leads you to right combination and technique on a particular paint.
Have you done testing with Sonax Perfect finish. I’ve been meaning to do some testing. A lot of people like to use it as a One step, however it’s results in normal use left me dissatisfied. It doesn’t cut well and finishes poor on different paints and combinations. It seems to be a very specific product. Also, it has to be the worst dusting product i’ve ever used.
@@r.k862 using in 3-4 row passes, light pressure, 3-4 size pea drops working sections ~8x the size of my pad. after watching sandros review on it i need yo to do further testing with my technique as if he can get a good result from him i need to change somethign with my technique to do the same
@@valkyrie_voodoo ooh ok that's not good. I was thinking to use Sonax perfect finish with a hand polisher but I don't think that would be a good idea seeing your results as it seems hard. I'm a noob. So I should not try?
No, the main thing to understand about a good one step polish is that it should give you good cut and finishing results so that you just look for a good result doing just one set of passes, not repeated passes over the same section. If you find that they are not removing the defects then you should use a heavier cutting compound. And like wise if you find they are not finishing well you should use a finer finishing polish. All paints and their defects are different so you just have to test compounds to see what’s going to work best on that specific paint.
Hey Sandro, I’ve got my MG Astor graphene coated last week. I have 3 specific questions: 1) Cover on or off if it’s parked in shade at night(my detailing guy said that cover get car scratched up). 2) Would the graphene coating be able to protect paint if it’s standing in 5-6 hours of intense sun(40-44* Celsius, Rajasthan,India). 3) I’ve got 6 year plan & will be called once a year for next 6 years for maintenance. Apart from that, any product that I can use daily/weekly basis which would keep the coating intact?
I don’t specifically know that coating so I would suggest taking the advice of the detailer who installed it. But generally, I don’t recommend car covers, sun light is great for curing most coatings and a good SiO2 based spray coating should help extend the life of the coating.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Car detailing is a relatively new here in india(trend picking up though). Most detailers have their own versions of coatings(ceramic/graphene), all I know is that it’s 10H hardness. TBH even the detailers are clueless about many things especially maintainence part after getting coating done. My biggest concern is will it be safe parking for 5-6hrs in 42-44* Celsius temperature when it’s parked outside? Car cover I’ll only put on if there’s some sort of dust storm etc is on the horizon.
Too much strong UV light is never a great thing day in day out, but that’s unfortunately the way it goes if you don’t have cover and I’d still say I’d avoid the cover. Hope that helps mate.
All true compounds and polishes will stain and abraid trims to some level, you really have to mask them off. Waxes and sealants however can vary in this area, and usually spray waxes and sealants are less likely to stain trims if that’s what you mean.
Hey sandro. I have a freshly painted car with lots of clear coats which has been cut back with 2000 grit, about to start polishing it Could I get away with a one step such as s20? Or would you recommend s20 followed by s30 or s40 or something like that ?
S20 could very well work great as a one step if the fresh paint is on the softer side and your technique and pad choice is tuned well to that paint and the sanding scratches. Some fresh paints, 2k in particular can still be very hard and you may need to step up to a more aggressive compound like S2 black and a wool or MF pad or even sand to P3000, and some overly softer fresh paints can be very sensitive and you may need to finish down with S30. In the end you should do a few test sections and that’s what’s really going to let you know the best combination and technique forward on your specific paint.
Yep ok il have to see on the day. I have S3 XXL gold not S2 but can always purchase s2 instead. Looks like gona be a timely process, thanks for the reply, I did also see your other video, I'm hoping to skip the 4000 grit stage, I think it will be possible potentially,
@SussNit S3 Gold can also work great to remove the sanding marks, it just won’t tend to finish as well as S2 Black - but if you’re doing a two step it could still be great. Yes, because sanding scratches can vary a lot depending on how uniform and well they’ve been done as well as the paint type, you really have do a few tests to confirm what’s going to be the best way forward.
Sandro, I am not sure if Turtle Wax "One and Done" compound is available over there, but I think it is a very good product and something you will enjoy using. Very similar to 3D One with a better wipe off, in my opinion. Only down side is it only comes in 16 oz. bottles :(
Hey again Sandro, I was told by a detailing store that 3D one is no longer made . I don't see it on the bigger online detailing stores , even the ones thar have 3D in their list of brands. I can see it at a couple of other places though. Do u know anything about this? Thx
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok interesting. I went into a detailing store that had 3D advertised on their site. They had nothing in that brand and told me they aren't making it anymore which I thought was odd. He then said that he's spent a lot of time with the people at angelwax (that he sells) in assisting to produce particular products. Also seemed to know a lot about NV products. 3 of the main detailing stores I buy from including WAXIT don't sell these products. Just curious as to why, if the brand is so popular. So when he said about 3D no longer making particular polishes, looking online seemed to solidify his comment.
Hey Sandro. Thanks for this cool test. I mean that perfekt finish sonax is the compatitor to s20 i have the cut and finish also. I have compare all tree together and work a long time with them. By my working style i see that perfekt finish is the better s20. And the cut and finish is like you say better on harder onestep paints. I think the perfekt finish sonax is the catagory of s20 and one. What do you think ?
It’s not always easy to put compounds into a straight forward category because there’s a lot over crossover as far as cut and finish goes. But I would still tend to say Perfect Finish is a finishing polish with a bit of bite like a few other polishes rather than a medium compound if I had to put it into a category. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be a great one step or medium compound. You could even say Cut & Finish is a cutting compound rather than a one step. In the end I don’t think it really matters all that much, but if the brands call it a one step or finishing polish that’s what I tend to judge it as.
hey sandro, for the first time i used a rotary with a 5 inch lake country wool pad and used 3d one. I had good results, but had alot of sling that I never got from a DA or foam pads. what do you recommend to keep product from slinging especially from a rotary and wool pad. thanks
Wool pads tend to hold more product more effectively so they usually sling less than foam, but overall using less product helps and starting very slow and slowly increasing speed also helps as well as some moderate pressure, as light pressure also tends to promote sling. In the end 3D is a little more prone to sling than most compounds I’ve used on rotary so it’s hard to completely eliminate it, and a different compound that’s less prone sling will also greatly help.
Due to insecurity your firs portion was confusing. Don't over complicate things to make them seem more important, speak as if we were 4 years old and you'll never go wrong. Try and emulate an university professor and you will crush and burn. We are still not clear how a one step compound can be used to generate a "great result". What does that mean? great result can mean anything. Why don't you tell us if this requires a second step to gain additional gloss and a finish wax or ceramic coating. Clear as mudd. Do better.
Got some 3d hybrid on the way today, gotta use it by hand tho :( hopefully I can get some good results and get ride of those damned swirls. Already clayed the truck and got the iron out, just need to polish before she's back to being wrapped in some ceramic goodness
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Sandro,
This has to be the best product review you’ve ever done. So thorough, so relevant, and so considerate.
I’ve used 3D One for quite some time, and fully concur with your findings. Once you learn how the compound behaves through a variety of settings and constraints, a lot of the product’s effectiveness is in your own hands and technique. I’ve achieved a mirror finish on metals of all things with 3D One, but it was largely because I understood the parameters and thresholds involved.
I’d love for you to do a modern two-step compound and polish episode one day, involving similar brands and pairing their own products accordingly. That would be a ton of work, but it would also show just how knowledgeable and experienced you are in the process.
Thanks again for such rich content.
Thanks Justin and I think comparing a few popular cut and polish systems could be a great video as it’s still perhaps the most used correction process today and I’m glad you enjoyed this review!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Which of these 3 products do you think I should use is more permanent and the effect is long.... i was caught between auto glym alex hybrid, scholl s20 black real and 3d 510 cake, which one do you think I should buy you seem to be very experienced in this regard???
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ?
The lasting effect is permanent with all of them, they are not filling or masking defects, they are permanently removing the defects so the only way the defects return is if they are created again on the paint. Just choose the one you thought best addressed your working style and results.
@Kelden Dance if you can find it, get Griot’s FCC and use it for cutting with a quality MF pad. Meguiars makes a good pad if LC isn’t available or affordable.
3D One IMO is great for when you need a long cycle and a second step for clarity. Because it can work for so long it needs a bit more time to help you conclude ‘you’re done.’ Griots perfecting cream is phenomenal as a last/third step, especially with their paired pads.
But understand, I’m assuming you have the money and patience to find this recipe’s intricacies. Believe it or not, any of these products have the flexibility to be a one-step. FCC with a softer pad will blow your mind and get you 85-90% there. 3D One won’t get P1500 scratches out, but damn-close with a wool pad. You just have to understand what you’re asking these products to do, with what pad, on what clear coat.
Hope that helps.
A couple things not mentioned, which I think are important, is first of all; oil content. Scholl S20 Black has a very low oil content of around 3-5%, whereas 3D One has an oil content up around 15%. This is significant when wiping off prior to a ceramic coating application, as the less oil that's used, the easier this will be - this is also one of the things Scholl changed with the updated formula of S20 Black. The other thing, is that all of these compounds use DAT aluminium oxide technology (diminishing abrasive), so technically, the longer you work the polish, the finer the finish should become. Some of these have quite aggressive aluminium oxide, and so they will cut more with a shorter work time, but should finish down nicely once worked for a longer time.
S20 Black is just pure witchcraft for mine. Low oil content, very versatile as it can be used on hard and soft paints and you can adjust the finish you get with your pad choice and technique used with the machine. It's still the best all round polish out there, IMO.
I was just about to comment on this as well! Well put together comment :). What turned me away from 3D one was the wipe off process. I’m excited to be trying out S20 Black soon!
@@knpgn I didn't have any problems wiping off either product, it's just interesting that Scholl use such a low oil content, when basically every other company use a much higher oil content for easy wipe off.
@@Disciple11 Interesting! I always thought that the oil content was related to lubricating the abrasives within the compound. I always found that 3D one filled up my pads and wipe off towels very quickly. Maybe its difference in tolerance when it comes to wiping off 😅. Any tips for wiping off 3D one? Ive been using 350gsm low pile towels and carpro eraser as my wipe off process. Cheers!
@@knpgn the oil serves a few purposes in a polish - one of which is lubricating the abrasive, but it's mostly for consistency of use throughout the polishing process, stopping the polish from drying out, and making it easier to buff off.
I would use a better panel wipe there. In my experience, Eraser is lacking quite a bit and can leave a residue from the soaps in it. Try using a strictly alcohol based one and see if it improves for you.
Found the 3D polishes to cover up more compared to ultracut/scholl/koch/menzerna when a strong IPA is used. Thank god I only bought 250ml bottles 🙈
Scholl is the most underrated compound. Scholl is the boss if you want effectiveness and efficiency.
S3 is great
I recently used s20 black on a Kia Sportage using Lake country orange pads. Someone had scraped across the rear door and qtr panel with bike handle bars. I wax expecting to have to wet sand the area but gave s20 a go first. It took everything out in a couple of passes and finished perfectly. I couldn't believe it. Finished it off with NV lustre for extra gloss . Great video once again Sandro.
Awesome to hear that and a great example of why starting with less aggressive combinations is the way to go!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing i learnt that method , starting with least aggressive first, from your videos . So big thx to u mate
Thanks for the comparison Sandro. I believe 3D promotes ONE as a "pad dependent" single paint correction polish vs. a one step polish. i.e. use an aggressive pad and you'll get good cut, use a light polishing pad and it will finish out great.
This actually works for every compound and polish. Its why you should always test different combinations because paint systems vary quite a bit these days. You'll be surprised by what you find.
My pleasure mate and absolutely agree with 3Ds assessment of One in that case but I also have to agree with 5hift6ear that one of the wonderful things about good modern car compounds is that they are all very pad and technique dependant and it really amazing how well modern compounds can cut finish these days compared to their older counterparts.
@@5hift6ear If every polish/compound can cut great and finish out great, pad dependent, and every polish/compound can be a one-step, and every paint is different, then I'm confused as to the point of why would anyone ever do comparisons.
@@mutatedgenome Its more about catering your pad/product to the paint system you are working on and what kind of results you are after. There really isn't a single product that will perform perfectly on every single paint system, this is why before you correct an entire car it is important to dial in your combo in a single area and then go from there, you don't want to have to do the work twice. There are caveats to this as well such as repainted panels, blending jobs, etc. The entire car could have harder paint but the single repainted panel could be softer or vice versa and would require a different combo to get the results you desire in some cases. The good news is abrasive technology has come such a long way that as long as you surround yourself with quality products you won't have any issues. Having various pads/abrasives that vary in aggressiveness is ideal, but for a weekend warrior 3D One and a variety of pads should be able to achieve the desired results.
You're exactly correct on this.
The benefit for us is that it finishes out really nice for the amount of cut it can achieve.
One of the best tutorials I've ever seen on 1 step cut and Polish products. I agree with your findings!!! 🏆👍🇨🇦
Glad you enjoyed it
Depth of knowledge, together with review detail is very impressive
Thanks Sandro! Always great to see you at work!🙏🙏
I would give the Sonax EX04-06 a try 👍🏾 Did my black Volvo with it.
Nice (!) cut, and a high gloss.
It slings if to much product is used, 0 dust. 2 downsides hard to clean out of the pad (a curd soap bar will fix that) and no easy wipe off.
3D One is my No.1 go to Polish on sticky paints!!! It's lubrication is phenomenal! Scholl S20 is my go to One-Step or medium polish at all! Love these two liquids!
Sonax is just a pain in the butt to clean out of pads...
I rembered your comment today when I went to clean out the pads from sonax, absolute pain in the butt to clean it out...
Agreed on the Sonax.
I've decided to dive into scholl compounds and pads. Purchased S2 black, S20 black and S30, along with their full range of spider pads, and the two ninja pads in both 3" and 5" sizes.
Will be testing them on my personal vehicle soon.
I use cutmax, cut and finish, perfect finish, and final with amazing results. Sonax have great products. This was a great comparison.
Same!!! Except I usually only carry cutmax and perfect finish in the field. Such great compounds. Although the dusting can be a bit much, since I’m constantly in direct sunlight. Rinses out of pads relatively easily also! Pad washers ftw
Thanks for sharing your experience with their compounds and I’m glad you enjoyed the review!
Sonax are my key compounds too. For some reason they never dust when I use them. I always work inside I am using a lot of Rupes, meguiars and KochChemie as well, but they surely dust way more than Sonax. I use EX05-05 instead of cut and finish and I have to agree that it is not easy to get a great finish. Kochchemie has much better one step F06 in that regard
@@vladimirsmola8706 Nice.
@@Ichabod_Jericho
U should also try Scholl S20 Black and finish with Scholl S40. In our eyes more cut, more gloss and less work.
I want also to admit you have jumped to another level with this review Sandro! All your reviews are good, but this one was made in a new manner and I like it very much! Appreciate your own thoughts, advices and feeling. One old man told me once: advice is a very good thing because you can listen it and never use it. And I see how gentle with all of us you are, saying all the time - this is my personal feeling, etc, etc, and this is VERY correct I think Sandro. Great video and thanks for sharing! I have never use any of them but you never know what will be tomorrow))) Cheers from Sweden.
Thanks Sergey, I’m really glad you enjoyed this video and I could agree more, advice is free and your free to do with it as you please!
Ultra cut is my go to, I’ve tried almost every compound and always come back to Ultra cut. On soft paint I usually finish up with essence.
CARPRO Ultracut?
@@rihardsgladkins5494 finishes down lovely 👌🏻
3D One is my go to for many reasons you stated, when i need a little more cut, i combine it with ACA500 , 3D has more Lubrification that prolong working times, many detailers find it to oily because they use too much products . when finishing with 3D One ,i use a black finishing pad from Lake Country and get awesome gloss finish., or the new Rupes white finishing pad. i cut with Lambwool pads most of the time, or Buff n Shine Uro 50-50... Thank You for a Great Video! ;-)
Thanks for sharing your experience with it mate!
are you buffing to perfection? I've only done 4 cars, but I've used 3d one with either a Orange lake country foam pad or yellow rupes foam pad and took out 95 percent of defects and don't need to polish. maybe I could make it perfect, but I feel like that would be 50 percent more effort for 5 to 10 percent more improvement. not really worth it unless you going for perfection.
I also just tried out a rotary for the first time with a lake country wool pad but had a tremendous amount of sling. it almost looked like I was slinging water but the pad was dry before I put 3d one on it, so it was obviously product. I'm assuming I either put to much product on or didn't massage it in the wool when I primed it, or maybe I started to fast. what do you think I was doing wrong ?
@@brianhenry7983 - Might be too much product or technique.
You don't need much 3D ONE.
I had a similar experience when I got my first rotary back in the 90's. I was using Meguiar's M02 Fine Cut Cleaner on a Meguiar's wool pads. It was a MESS!
3d One is King. Especially on Rotary or RO where you don't need to wipe down until after the polish stage. One product for all stages just change the pads. Working time is so long. 3d One will cut out heavy defects on a wool/MF pad. S20 Black probably best as just a single stepper with the purple spider.
I’ve used sonax products for the last 5 years and Sonax perfect finish is my favourite on gloss enhancement. I’ve tried Sonax cut / finish on bmw ( hard paint) and still…. I wasn’t happy with the results.
So I’ve used Sonax perfect finish after…😜🤩
So what you’ve done is a truthful video / review. You said and show it how it is .. thank you very much for doing this video!!
Great job as always!!
Hi from Uk !!
👍💪👏
Wow, Sandro! At 9 min mark, with the sanding marks. Never seen it so consistent! I thought mine were good! Nicely done
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support!!
First time seeing u use 3D one. As a user of it myself I am watching this video for ur opinions
6:04 That also happens to SPF (Sonax Perfect Finish) when I'm using it on my hot and humid garage, specially on softer paints. If I use it in the shop with the A/C blowing out penguins though, it wipes off like a breeze (most products work better in A/C) unless I'm polishing a buttery soft Fiat or Subaru and I overwork it. I'd also advise you try out Sonax Perfect Finish instead of Cut & Finish as IMO it's their best one step product and their best product PERIOD. It's my go to for one steps and also for 2 stage corrections as it finishes flawlessly on pretty much any finish. There will always be that one car where you have to use a primer polish, but they are rare. I've always wanted to try out Scholl Concepts S20 Black since I first saw it in a video in like late 2017 or early 2018, but never really bit the bullet cuz only the euro shops carried it with heavy shipping penalties. After watching you work with it and hearing such praise now I wanna give it a go and Corey actually carries this product so I can pay the shipping no problem :)
What do you use as a compound before finishing down with your Sonax PF?? Cheers
@@johnboy2436 I've tried pretty much every compound under the sun but my "go to" has been Jescar Correcting Compound. It's cheap, easy to work with, has a good consistency, wipes off neatly without a fight, cuts extremely well, the finish is not bad considering how well it cuts (you WILL have to follow it up with polish unless you're working on those granite hard clear coats like the Mercedes G wagons for example), it basically doesn't dust so long as you clean out your pads very well/completely after you're done with them (and keep them clean during the job, residue control is very important for any compound/polish so you keep getting good and consistent results from start to finish), it's water based, etc. I have nothing bad to say about that compound and highly recommend it for pros or noobies alike. Nowadays you can use pretty much any compound you like, though, as most modern compounds perform incredibly well and produce excellent results if used correctly. THE most important part of the equation is actually the person using the product. Work on your technique, be aware of what you're doing wrong and causing you bad results and also what you're doing right and causing good results and you'll just keep getting better and better. You could literally give me a polisher with some microfiber pads and some polishing pads and I could still take some absolutely thrashed paint and make a huge improvement to it using body lotion instead of compound or polish. If you haven't polished anything before and are just starting out, I'd recommend you buy a bottle of perfect finish with some yellow rupes pads or some orange, lake country HDO pads and polish a really swirled up finish. You'll be surprised at how easy it is to make a massive improvement on a car's finish even without prior experience :) You can buy the Scholl Concepts S20 black instead if you wanna try that out and just use it with the same pads. There are other good pads out there that you could get good results with, but those are just some that came to mind and that I've personally used plenty and had excellent results with.
@@groundcontrol6876 Thank you so much so iv ordered 6 rupes yellow foam pads and 6 rupes white foam pads for my DA. Here in the UK tho i cant seem to get hold of Jescar Correcting Compound. But iv just bought Sonex perfect finish. Is there another compound i can get thats just as good as jescar? ill be following up with sonex perfect finish.
@@johnboy2436 Honestly, it sounds like you’re completely new to this, so my suggestion would be to just use the combo you already bought (the Sonax perfect finish with the Rupes yellow, since white is much too fine to do any real correction) and go from there. Unless your car is in really, really bad shape, I think you’ll be very pleased with the results you get with just that combo alone. I’ve one stepped a lot of cars with SPF and a yellow pad, so assuming your car isn’t completely knackered, or it’s a really, really hard clear coat, you should be very happy with the results without having to use a compound. Plus, you’ll get practice with the machine and work up a rhythm/muscle memory as to how to polish. What polisher do you have by the way? I’m curious to know (you don’t need the latest, most expensive Rupes/Flex tool on the market to get incredible results, remember, it’s more about your technique, working on clean, properly prepped paint, and controlling the residue by blowing out your pads between with compressed air and/or swapping out for a clean one when they’ve been caked up with spent polish and other residue. Anyway… if you give this a try and you still need more cut, then I’m gonna ask you which compounds do you have available? So I can suggest one or a few. But really, wash your car well, clay it (or clay a section like the trunk lid or the bonnet)dry it and then polish that section just to test it out. You’re likely gonna be surprised and pretty happy with the difference you made with one step :) Remember, you can always do another polishing set if the first one left a few swirls behind, and also remember that it doesn’t have to be perfect to look amazing, all you have to do is make an improvement and I’m sure it’ll leave a grin on your face.
@@groundcontrol6876 The car is in amazing shape. It doesnt really have swirls either, its just got some marks here and there that you can see under certain angles/lighting. Its the new Megane RS. I want it in perfect condition if possible. I got 6 rupes yellow, 6 white rupes pads, 6 uro-fibre 50/50 pads and maybe like a blue wool pad or something like that. Its a long throw DA, not sure what brand i know its of good wattage and its powerful. I used it on my parents car with HD speed and a yellow rupes pad and they had ALOT of swirls and it corrected like 80 percent. I know HD speed contains fillers but the level of correction was great. I didnt go too much was it was my first time and i wanted to keep the clear coat thick. I got g6 compound, meguiars ultimate polish, HD speed, Sonex perfect finish and menzerna 3800. Also have a sealant called poorboys EX-p. I bought alot of this awhile ago to get into it but only used recently on parents car and it turned out good and using the buffer felt natural. Only issue was my pad head in 5 inch and my pads are 6 inch. So i have to kinda use the buffer on an angle here and there to get to some sections but i also worry than because of an edge in the bodywork it will put more pressure and ill burn though. But as far as iv seen a DA is good for not making that mistake. I was going to go in with Sonex PF with a white part from minor correction but a good finish. The cars really really glossy as it,i want it showroom. I bought this menzerna 3000 and wondered also if i should just one step that with a white pad. Again not much correction is needed but i also want a really glossy finish if thats even possible with how good it already is. Was going to step up to a yellow pad if needed. May do a test section with both white and yellow as this car is my daily and i want to keep the integrity of the clear coat as much as possible. Id rather only do a major correction when needed. I want minior correction but that showroom finish. Extra glossy. Thanks so much
Sandro you should use the pick up method with the rotary, it's the only method to not splat polish everywhere
Love 3D one. Have used Sonax Perfect Finish also. Thanks for the comparison video.
Great review. I have used Scholl s20 a lot and its a great product. Now im currently ising 3D one and so far i like it.
So which one do you like better
@@CarlosMartinez-ws4uu 3D one👍
Another great in depth review. We appreciate all the time, effort, and money you put into your videos. It really showcases your experience which has a direct outcome what is reported on camera. Which is difficult to do. Every time I watch other RUclipsr’s finish a car, I always say in my mind how Sandro would have finished better. At least what we see on camera.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best wishes
One thing a cracking video the other is thanks for the e mail from BMAC
You have tought me and give me the confidence in detailing my own car but I can't get close to your professional detailing
My absolute pleasure mate and thank you!
Scholl is my favorite.
Thanks
Thank you mate, greatly appreciate the support!!
Thank u for everything you never let us down more comment to come when I watch in full thank you
Great work Sandro, I have only ever used S20 black as a 1 step and have been very pleased with the results (euro paint)
Been testing many brands lately, and keep coming back to Scholl Concepts, S2 Black, S20 Black and S30+, it gives me a faster and BETTER overall results, solid performance.
That’s great and they are really fantastic compounds
Ive been waiting for this video in ages.
Hope it was worth the wait!
Sonax profiline is good. Clean, no dust
Great, comparison. S20 works well with me. Thanks for the video.
Keep up the great work.
Excellent production. Very balanced review across all three products.
Great review I have used 3d one on Peugeot and VW ³d one fineshed down well on these paint types but I found ³d one clogged up my pads even though I cleaned them after each pass Plus It almost put a film like coating on my padd after using it for long periods but did not dust to much had great lub Love the review keep them coming In Sandro we trust
Thanks Bob and it sounds like your experience with it was very similar to much of my testing!
You're probably using too much product.
I use this product almost daily at work.
I find that I can "stretch" ONE a bit because of its lubrication and non diminishing abrasives.
Stretching polish is when I clean out my pad with a brush to knock the loose particles out, I'll sometimes wipe the pad with a microfiber towel too.
From there I'll touch the pad to the paint to see how much moisture is in it, and begin polishing again. Occasionally I might need to add a small drop or two to the pad.
With 3D ONE, less is usually more. Only when doing some heavier cutting do I use more product.
I know I may get beat up on it but I still love Meg's 205 for a one step. It doesn't do great with deeper defects but for some defect removal, great gloss and super easy to wipe off it's hard to beat. I do like 3D one and Sonax perfect finish, there just a little oily in my opinion. I don't like struggling to wipe off a polish. I always respect your opinion and appreciate everything you do for the detailing community. I would like to try the Scholl S 20 black, not sure if we can get it in the states. Thanks Sandro.
I think the detailing world has a lot of thanks to give to M105 & M205! I still remember trying them back in the day and they where truly amazing and innovating compounds at that time which forced other brands to step up there game and they have definitely stood the test of time which says a lot!
Thanks mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing couldn't agree more.
I use M205 for the first time in a long time. I had been a strong Meguiar's user since 1996. It wasn't until I tried 3D that something knocked Megs out of my top spot.
But last week I used Meguiar's at work. I was using M205 to cut and finish. The sides of this Porsche had extreme car wash damage. So I had to switch to M105.
I used to get a ton of dust from M105, but I guess my approach improved! That M105 paired with Lake Country microfiber cutting pads did a GREAT job cutting down the compromised paint. I then used the M205 to refine.
It was good to visit home with Meguiar's. I missed the feel, the wipe off, the scent...
I also used a TON of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish.
I'm also really liking the newer M110 and M210.
Nothing wrongs with Megs!
This is a hugely informative video. Sandro you amazing tests and processes in these videos.
Thanks mate.
I had a Scholl S20 black bottle that had been sitting for about 4 years, i used it with rupes yellow wool pad, cut was fantastic on soft paint, but almost impossible to remove. i think that bottle migth have "expierd" as it has always been a nice experience both polishing, wipeoff and residue control.
I’ve used Scholl S20. You may be on to something about the age of the product. One of my favorites…along with the Sonax…👍
The original formula S20 Black was renown at being a PITA to remove the later versions are far easier ..... don't ask me how I know 😔
I don't know what us novices would do without you sandro ,thanks mate no one on RUclips comes close to your content.
I ordered the shine mate polish kit with pads and the 3 scholl polishes.Im ordering more lake country blue pads before I start paint correction and coating on my new car.I do also have McGuire's one step and finish polish so hopefully I will get the correct combination with what I have.Thanks mate 👍
Thank you Sandro for the great review. Outstanding work, especially great after you watched watched John from forensic detailing rumble about nothing for 15 minutes. Sandro, you are the best!
only two polish/compound im currently using is ultracut and reflect, i was experimenting with koch chemie but those two are just too easy to work with :)
ultracut has an unbelievably easy wipe off, i find scholl concepts can be a little hard to wipe off
Try having the clear coat in mind, just using ultracut and reflect may be way more than the paint needs. You may be doing a disservice to the paint because you are taking off unnecessary amounts of clear coat. I like to use the combination that gets the best results while preserving the amount of clear on the car. I love ultra cut though. You can do whatever you want mate, I’m not judging, just giving some advice.
@@connersmith2445 you are right but its really pad combination which removes clear coat, on my hard german paint it would be pointless trying to cut in with smg like s20
you should also try a farecla g3 premium vs 3d one.. im using farecla and it got a good cutting when using wool pad and gloss finish with a foam pad, just wonder how it will perform compare to 3d one..
If you have available koch chemie F6 in AU give it a try. Great video again sir congratulations
fantastic review
Oberk has a new 1 step called sole. Would have loved to see that one too. Nice video.
Great video
Always great content sandro 👍
Thank you for this video. Really informative
#1 Sandro!
Great review my friend.
Glad you liked it!
Where is the koch chemie products?
For a simple reason: Koch Chemie only offers an AIO but no real one-step with accepting cut and finish.
F06 is a perfect cutting medium polish, cuts more than a 2500 menzerna. Still it's like glue while removing it and dusts like a real heavy compound. I will never understand why people like koch polishing line. H8 is more like a medium cutting polish, H9 cuts well with rotary and wool but only with low temperatures... Otherwise impossible to work with.
Try a Rupes Yellow pad with Perfect Finish... maybe the other two as well.
amazing content per usual🤝
Thank you mate!
Im a newby based on your video im gonna try 3D
Thanka
Thank you.
Sup Sandro. Personal preference is 3D one.
is this upto date on how you feel still? you still think the scholls is best? or had another product took your number 1 spot? looking for a good one step? cheers
S20 will always be a great compound and I still highly recommend it - whether or not it will be the best choice on a particular paint and it’s defects as well as your own working method is another question.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingyou mention its a compound but will it also finish down as a one step? I have sonex perfect finish but sometimes the cut is not enough.
I don’t think S20 will have substantially more cut than Perfect Finish, but it may actually finish better than it on softer paints - S20 does typically finish extremely well.
If you want more cut I’d be looking at something like Scholl S2 Black - which is also a fantastic one-Step on medium to harder paints.
You just have to appreciate that the paint type, it’s defects and your pad selection and technique is what’s going to determine whether any compound/polish will be a good one step.
Did you have to use two different pads to cute and polish still? Or with a foam pad you would be able to do both?
It depends on the existing defects and the paint type - sometimes yes, sometimes no
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing just trying to get rid of swirls. Other scratches I know you can’t win all the time.
If it’s just swirls you want to address then a single stage with a foam polishing pads will most likely suffice
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingcould a lower speed not get most of swirls. I did a polish with an electric sander and had to lower the speed to not have it vibrate like crazy. I keep wondering if I would have done more correcting with more speed. I did do more passes incase.
If it’s just an oscillating sander it may not work well, you need a good dual motion free spinning action - if it has that then it should get you there in the end
Perfect finish can be used as a all in one in most cases it performs better in the category you test with a lil less cut also 3d has a wax in it so it might make finish look better than it really is.
3D one has no wax or filler.. HD speed does
@@danmorrissette4814 👍
I did always do an IPA wipe before assessing the results and I couldn’t see any filling from anyone of the compounds, like Dan Morrissette mentioned you may be confusing it with 3D Speed which is an AIO polish.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing yep got it
What's your thoughts on the lake country pad cleaner. Thinking of getting it.
ruclips.net/video/C1T5QNBQBdE/видео.html
What would you suggest the best pad and compound combo for the likes of the hard clear coat you get on say a ve/vf holden commodore, as a one step? I tried 3d one and also scholl 1step with a 3d dark purple pad, and even though it was an ok finish, it didn't remove as mush swirls as I would of liked. I then tried 3d one with the yellow rupes wool pad. And ended up with similar results Much appreciate your feedback Sandro. Best videos on RUclips
I think if if those one step compounds with moderate wool pads aren’t removing the defects you may need to step up to to a more aggressive compound or maybe try altering your technique to tune it more towards cut - that is working smaller sections, maybe starting with slower machine speeds and pressure and then raising speed and pressure to finish off. It’s hard to say what is exactly going to work well for you without being there but if the defect removal isn’t happening to your liking, I’d just keep on slowly upping the aggression until both my combination and technique gets me there.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you mate much appreciated. I will make those adjustments and see how I go. I think the most aggressive compound I have at the moment is scholls heavy cutting compound. That should definitely do the trick. I actually forgot that I had that one in my arsenal. Cheers mate. And thank you once again. Your videos have helped me improve so much.
Hello, Do you prefer 3D ONE or Rupes Uno Protect? Or is there a one step product recommendation for black soft paint?
3D One is a one step or medium compound whereas Uno Protect is an all in one polish - so it fills and adds a sealant at the end - so it depends what you want out of that product as to which one to go for. Maybe if your new to polishing and it is a soft paint Uno Protect could be a better way to go - it won’t remove as many defects as 3D one bit should finish better.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing for the maximum result with Uno Protect, what pad should i use ? ohh btw, is Uno Protect can work with rotary ?
You always have to do a test section as every paint and it’s defects are different, but generally speaking if it a soft paint you tend to finish better with a foam polishing or one step pad - yes you can use it with a rotary.
This video may be worth a watch to get you started on the right direction: ruclips.net/video/6tepA3wjPbY/видео.htmlsi=OQY5ZNQjmLoiUJKG
I use 3D one eve day and finish with the speed
I've been trying to polish my evo that I resprayed with COB and DEBEER air dry clear. It seems like a hard paint as I have spent a lot of time with sanding discs and various compounds but am having trouble getting a good finish. Would the debeer clear be classified as a hard paint as maybe that's my problem???
From what I’ve read it is quite a hard and durable clear coat like the newer ceramic clears so it’s probably going to be difficult and require lots of heavy refinement to get that good finish.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok thanks mate.
I have a 3D one compound and a DA. How can I remove micro marring or long micro scratches maybe mostly made by claying my car (done at a detailer) that was imported from Japan with heavy contamination. I am using Shinemate Blue medium pad(which i think cuts fairly less with my compound) and 2 local (but very good, praised by our local community)a step up from one another harsher foam pads as well. I only did like 2 passes. It removes swirls but not those micro scratches. And oh also I am a noob
When you get down to finishing well on soft Japanese paints it can sometimes be hard to identify what are existing swirls or micro marring and what the polish is leaving behind in term of marring. If it’s claying scratches you need to cut a little more to remove them, if it’s polish/pad induced swirls/marring you need find a better combination and technique for that paint to finish better.
Maybe this video will help:
ruclips.net/video/m6tbu3GrTWI/видео.html
Just watched this video - thank you so much. Would be interested to see your thoughts on DIY Detail Gold Standard now that is out in Australia (hoping it will be in UK soon) compared to these as well
I love 3D ONE. I'm using it nine times out of ten on all these cars we correct and coat where I work.
But...
You could give me Jescar Medium Polish and I can cover a lot of ground with it. The only reason I tend to go with ONE is that it's very easy to clean up off the trim or pebble black textured plastic, and rubber pieces.
But interms of cut and finish, Jescar is probably a little more refined in the overall user experience. It's a diminishing abrasive, so it finishes down on a wider variety of finishes, where sometimes ONE will need a softer pad to deliver that level of gloss. The wipe of is also more reasonable. Just a hi quality feeling and performing product. It's "luxurious".
I also used to use a lot of the Menzerna PF2500. Rupes Quarz and UHS were very good. Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 was very nice. Adam's Correction Polish (orange) was excellent.
These medium polishes ate so much fun for me to use. I love when they can deliver more than expected.
Sandro a detailer/painter of my area told me Scholl has silicone in it, while the website says it doesn't , he says he doesn't use it cause it will ruin his paint spray, is it true ?
S20 Black along side many other Scholl compounds do not contain Silicone.
Scholl Concepts does however have an absolutely massive range of compounds it produces and sells world wide, some of which I do believe contain silicones and other additives.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank's :)
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I've ordered I will see how it does 😁👍👋
Love the videos, so much great information!! for general annual maintenance polishing using 3D One on a modern car with I would guess regular hardness, what would you recommend as a great all around pad choice the Rupes yellow or white? focusing on micro scratches and swirl removal and everyday usefulness shine and depth (not show car quality). Essentially with the White have enough cutting power to do anything?
Thanks and I’d go for the yellow pad - the white Rupes pad may struggle a little with anything but a super fine polish.
What's your opinion Sandro (if you've tried them) on Angelwax's compound and polishes?
I’ve only minimally test/tried AngleWax compounds so I may not be the best personal to ask. But generally I think they cut reasonably well but the finishing qualities is where I struggle a little more.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing awesome! I value your opinions and appreciate the feedback. It's tough stuff to get a hold of haha
Hey Sandro! Nice review as always. I have to ask: on 3ds part of the summary, I noticed that after wiping off, there are some scratches. Where those in the paint or where caused by the compound or by the wipe off ? I ask because I have had same issues with some other brands. They are circular scratches so in my case, I think they are inflicted either by the machine or wiping off. What are your thoughts about?
Thanks. You’ll tend to get more consistent circular scratches when it’s the compound, pad or both producing them, and longer straight to wavy scratches when it’s the wipe off.
In the video it was only the last soft black paint that produced some wiping swirls.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing well the scratches I'm talking about are similar to scratches at the end of the video. You say it's wiping but they look circular. The only thing is that indeed they are not that consistent. In my case they are more consistent but they are similar. If it was pad, compound or both, what's the advice?
Some of scratches at the end of the video panel are also produced by some the compounds, that’s when I talk about how they don’t all finish as well as each other, so those are also compounding swirls. To finish better you can try using less product on your pad, try a different pad and also a different polish. It’s always a little investigating and testing that leads you to right combination and technique on a particular paint.
Have you done testing with Sonax Perfect finish. I’ve been meaning to do some testing. A lot of people like to use it as a One step, however it’s results in normal use left me dissatisfied. It doesn’t cut well and finishes poor on different paints and combinations. It seems to be a very specific product. Also, it has to be the worst dusting product i’ve ever used.
I have done some testing with Sonax PF but there may be more to come, thanks for sharing your experience with it mate
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks again for your content mate. cheers
How were you using it? All the people I've seen said the complete opposite
@@r.k862 using in 3-4 row passes, light pressure, 3-4 size pea drops working sections ~8x the size of my pad. after watching sandros review on it i need yo to do further testing with my technique as if he can get a good result from him i need to change somethign with my technique to do the same
@@valkyrie_voodoo ooh ok that's not good. I was thinking to use Sonax perfect finish with a hand polisher but I don't think that would be a good idea seeing your results as it seems hard. I'm a noob. So I should not try?
Would you say that all 3 of these are pad dependent?
I’d say all compounds are pad dependent
Great comparison Sandro! thx ❤️👍🏼
Really glad you enjoyed it!
Did you just keep on applying the products to get a better finish? Instead of doing 1-2-3 step kinda thing?
No, the main thing to understand about a good one step polish is that it should give you good cut and finishing results so that you just look for a good result doing just one set of passes, not repeated passes over the same section. If you find that they are not removing the defects then you should use a heavier cutting compound. And like wise if you find they are not finishing well you should use a finer finishing polish. All paints and their defects are different so you just have to test compounds to see what’s going to work best on that specific paint.
Hey Sandro, I’ve got my MG Astor graphene coated last week. I have 3 specific questions:
1) Cover on or off if it’s parked in shade at night(my detailing guy said that cover get car scratched up).
2) Would the graphene coating be able to protect paint if it’s standing in 5-6 hours of intense sun(40-44* Celsius, Rajasthan,India).
3) I’ve got 6 year plan & will be called once a year for next 6 years for maintenance. Apart from that, any product that I can use daily/weekly basis which would keep the coating intact?
I don’t specifically know that coating so I would suggest taking the advice of the detailer who installed it. But generally, I don’t recommend car covers, sun light is great for curing most coatings and a good SiO2 based spray coating should help extend the life of the coating.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Car detailing is a relatively new here in india(trend picking up though). Most detailers have their own versions of coatings(ceramic/graphene), all I know is that it’s 10H hardness. TBH even the detailers are clueless about many things especially maintainence part after getting coating done.
My biggest concern is will it be safe parking for 5-6hrs in 42-44* Celsius temperature when it’s parked outside? Car cover I’ll only put on if there’s some sort of dust storm etc is on the horizon.
Too much strong UV light is never a great thing day in day out, but that’s unfortunately the way it goes if you don’t have cover and I’d still say I’d avoid the cover. Hope that helps mate.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Got it. Try to limit UV exposure as much as I can & will avoid cover. Thanks a lot man, that’ll help immensely. 👍🏻
What’s the best polish that doesn’t stain trim?
All true compounds and polishes will stain and abraid trims to some level, you really have to mask them off. Waxes and sealants however can vary in this area, and usually spray waxes and sealants are less likely to stain trims if that’s what you mean.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing oh right ok, when I’ve used Uno Protect that hasn’t seemed to stain trim, I just want that without the wax part really
Where do I buy any of this stuff, I can’t find it anywhere?
There’s links in the description box to some places you can get these products - but I’m not sure where you’re situated.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing cheers mate, Im in Hobart. Those links are to international sellers. Are these not available locally?
If you keep scrolling down there should be Australian links to where I bough them
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing oh, ok. Thanks!
Hey sandro. I have a freshly painted car with lots of clear coats which has been cut back with 2000 grit, about to start polishing it
Could I get away with a one step such as s20? Or would you recommend s20 followed by s30 or s40 or something like that ?
S20 could very well work great as a one step if the fresh paint is on the softer side and your technique and pad choice is tuned well to that paint and the sanding scratches. Some fresh paints, 2k in particular can still be very hard and you may need to step up to a more aggressive compound like S2 black and a wool or MF pad or even sand to P3000, and some overly softer fresh paints can be very sensitive and you may need to finish down with S30. In the end you should do a few test sections and that’s what’s really going to let you know the best combination and technique forward on your specific paint.
This video if you haven’t seen it may also be helpful: ruclips.net/video/Wi0vqdMsA1o/видео.htmlsi=778fLt2c7zBFCFmM
Yep ok il have to see on the day. I have S3 XXL gold not S2 but can always purchase s2 instead.
Looks like gona be a timely process, thanks for the reply,
I did also see your other video, I'm hoping to skip the 4000 grit stage, I think it will be possible potentially,
@SussNit S3 Gold can also work great to remove the sanding marks, it just won’t tend to finish as well as S2 Black - but if you’re doing a two step it could still be great.
Yes, because sanding scratches can vary a lot depending on how uniform and well they’ve been done as well as the paint type, you really have do a few tests to confirm what’s going to be the best way forward.
@CarCraftAutoDetailing was all done by hand the 2000, so will be un even potentially
Quite interesting about the fact that rupes DA or meguiars ultimate compound couldn’t make it
Have you used optimum intensive polisg and do you consider it a 1 step?
No I haven’t
Sandro,
I am not sure if Turtle Wax "One and Done" compound is available over there, but I think it is a very good product and something you will enjoy using. Very similar to 3D One with a better wipe off, in my opinion. Only down side is it only comes in 16 oz. bottles :(
I think it may now be available here, I’ll try and it go, thanks mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing it is available here now unsure if from many detail stores but repco I think sell it definitely.
Hey again Sandro, I was told by a detailing store that 3D one is no longer made . I don't see it on the bigger online detailing stores , even the ones thar have 3D in their list of brands. I can see it at a couple of other places though. Do u know anything about this? Thx
No I don’t, as far as I can see it’s pretty widely available at the moment and that sound like a strange choice by 3D to discontinue it.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok interesting. I went into a detailing store that had 3D advertised on their site. They had nothing in that brand and told me they aren't making it anymore which I thought was odd. He then said that he's spent a lot of time with the people at angelwax (that he sells) in assisting to produce particular products. Also seemed to know a lot about NV products. 3 of the main detailing stores I buy from including WAXIT don't sell these products. Just curious as to why, if the brand is so popular. So when he said about 3D no longer making particular polishes, looking online seemed to solidify his comment.
Its one of their most popar products.
Hey Sandro. Thanks for this cool test. I mean that perfekt finish sonax is the compatitor to s20 i have the cut and finish also. I have compare all tree together and work a long time with them. By my working style i see that perfekt finish is the better s20. And the cut and finish is like you say better on harder onestep paints. I think the perfekt finish sonax is the catagory of s20 and one. What do you think ?
It’s not always easy to put compounds into a straight forward category because there’s a lot over crossover as far as cut and finish goes. But I would still tend to say Perfect Finish is a finishing polish with a bit of bite like a few other polishes rather than a medium compound if I had to put it into a category. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be a great one step or medium compound. You could even say Cut & Finish is a cutting compound rather than a one step. In the end I don’t think it really matters all that much, but if the brands call it a one step or finishing polish that’s what I tend to judge it as.
hey sandro, for the first time i used a rotary with a 5 inch lake country wool pad and used 3d one. I had good results, but had alot of sling that I never got from a DA or foam pads. what do you recommend to keep product from slinging especially from a rotary and wool pad. thanks
Wool pads tend to hold more product more effectively so they usually sling less than foam, but overall using less product helps and starting very slow and slowly increasing speed also helps as well as some moderate pressure, as light pressure also tends to promote sling. In the end 3D is a little more prone to sling than most compounds I’ve used on rotary so it’s hard to completely eliminate it, and a different compound that’s less prone sling will also greatly help.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing interesting, I'll just experiment and see what works best. thanks
Love S20 black but can’t stand how it’s stains pads.
3m heavy duty gel compound beats all. Remove 800 grit shine like diamiond
I found S20 dusted alot on my car, turned into a bit of a pain
👍
Sandro on 3,123 sandro
🙂
Quale consigliate per un bmw titan silver?
I got lost
3rd
🥉
Due to insecurity your firs portion was confusing. Don't over complicate things to make them seem more important, speak as if we were 4 years old and you'll never go wrong. Try and emulate an university professor and you will crush and burn. We are still not clear how a one step compound can be used to generate a "great result". What does that mean? great result can mean anything. Why don't you tell us if this requires a second step to gain additional gloss and a finish wax or ceramic coating. Clear as mudd. Do better.
Got some 3d hybrid on the way today, gotta use it by hand tho :( hopefully I can get some good results and get ride of those damned swirls. Already clayed the truck and got the iron out, just need to polish before she's back to being wrapped in some ceramic goodness
Thanks
Thanks so much for the support!!
Awesome video.