Good vid. Did as you said, plus topped off filter canister with diesel prior to buttoning up. Went to the on-off ignition switch cycle about 5 times, about 10 seconds each, then tried cranking. Fired right up with no issues!
Thanks for taking a risk. I tried your method and can confirm switching ignition on/off does not prime. I tried it but my OCD did not allow me to crank before checking. When I opened the fuel filter reservoir it did not have any more diesel than when I replaced the filter. I added about 12oz of diesel with some PS Diesel Kleen and poured into the reservoir, turned key a few more times and I cranked it on with no problems! I appreciate your channel thanks for the content!
Glad for the confirmation then! I know on the old TDIs this method would work I guess I sort of assumed that on this one too. Probably also depends on how much diesel is actually in the reservoir. Tbh I’ve done 2 filter changes and both times 0 metal particles or shavings on the filter or inside. Maybe I’m just lucky then lol
@@DAriashi my car was perfect but had engine light and temperature was low, got told it's fuel temperature sensor, I removed it Ans now it don't start,it's air locked. I removed the sensor that is attached to the fuel filter and engine,it comes of a T pipe that sat just under the engine cover
Thanks for the video. 2 cents here.....Buy a VCDS for priming fuel pump activation. It will pay for itself multiple over since you don't have to pay for service
Good video! Absolutely works with switching the key on and off. Obviously if you have software though just use that. Key method works great though if you prime it enough.
Very helpful, i needed quite a lot of paper towel as it squirted 😂. If it’s a CR TDI I personally would not risk no bleeding / priming with vcds or similar.
I JUST DID MINE BRO! I don't think cycling the ignition button turns my pump on tho, couldn't hear anything pressing it on and off (my 2013 JSW TDI is a keyless start,with the ignition button) but I topped off the cannister with clean diesel to try and avoid any air bubbles. no metal shavings either, woo!
@DArias I got scared and went with the vw brand lol they don't even give any detailed information about their fuel filter so it's impossible to know without actually testing in an experiment if the oem brand really makes that much of a difference and I couldn't find such tests on RUclips... I guess I just figure the fuel pump and injectors are at stake and really the last line of defense is the fuel filter so for a 55.00 difference every 2 ish years it's probably w small difference in price
I’ve personally heard both that it does and doesn’t..maybe I’ve just gotten lucky not finding any metal the 2 times I’ve changed the filter with success
Question: what happens to the air that is purged from the canister? Does diesel from the tank pass through the bottom of the filter canister on its way to the fuel pump and ultimately to the combustion cylinders?
Yessir, when you cycle to accessory it kicks the fuel pump on priming end lubricating the system. In this video I did it like 7 times to be extra extra safe but this technique is effective
Looks like your still running the CP4 High pressure pump....HPFP. They go out and it is costly Check out my channel for cp3 upgrade and get it changed before it goes bad. Those metal shavings come up so fast you cant catch it in advance. Most guys are not passing 120k miles before it goes. Were talking 9000 at the dealer repair.
I’ve been told 2 things that on the cjaa the lift pump doesn’t actuate like the old TDIs do but I’ve had multiple Vw techs tell me that the method still works regardless as when you cycle the key it’ll pressurize the system forcing out the air. I did 2 fuel filters on my wagon with the key method and never once had any issues
@@DArias I've been running two VW TDI's since 1986. Have owned Passat's and Jetta's. I never used to change filters until 60K. That's what the first recommendation from VW was. I still rarely do it before 35K and have never had a fuel related issue of any kind. I keep my fuel tank as clean as possible (Including a water separator) and always treat the fuel. Every time I change the filter I inspect and clean the canister and RARELY find any dirt or filings. I've begun to believe the 20K recommendation is a conspiracy to sell more filters or a CYA by dealers and repair people.
Cycling the key WILL NOT run any of the 2 pumps. Therefore, there will be air in your system and CP4 pumps don't like unlubricated (diesel) runs. Please go to the tank and run the pump under the seat or the secondary, or get the software .
If you had an issue with the cycling method, how would you know? What could or would happen? I did you method like 4-5 times with 15 second wait times and it started as normal
Your car would have a rough start or stall etc. if you car is driving like normal and started no issues you’re good! Many people state that the key cycling method doesn’t work on the cjaa as it did older models because the lift pump doesn’t activate but have had techs at Vw and Audi confirm it will still help push air out of the system when the key is cycled and the fuel pump is activated so you’re good man
Changing the diesel fuel filter is totally overrated. I have seen fuel filters doing more than 150k miles and still looking like new, this is nothing like an oil filter. Fuel is always fresh and basically only needs filtering for the occasional, odd particle in the fuel, which - at least in western countries - thankfully is rare nowadays. The only real reason to have a filter in there at all is to protect from a failing fuel pump, as its metal pieces would cause irreparable damage to the engine. (and another reason is to separate off water) However, these shavings will sit at the bottom of the filter HOUSING (with the water) and not even reach up to the filter itself, so changing the filter without cleaning the bottom of the housing cavity (as it is shown here) is absolutely nonsensical. Ironically, allowing the fuel pump to run dry - even very shortly (as you do it in your video) - will CAUSE the fuel pump to fail and brake - and THAT IS THE SITUATION when you DO get the aforementioned metal shavings - just by causing exactly what you are trying to prevent, you see? Just keep your diesel filter in there, it will last forever and it is way too large to ever clog up with debris. Unless of course, your car is very old and you have a tank which is rusty ... but then you have an entirely different problem you might want to look into ...
Have you ever owned a diesel? Drive any of these TDIs, a duramax, cummins or power stroke 100K miles on a single fuel filter and let me know how much power she still makes..
Good vid. Did as you said, plus topped off filter canister with diesel prior to buttoning up. Went to the on-off ignition switch cycle about 5 times, about 10 seconds each, then tried cranking. Fired right up with no issues!
Thanks for taking a risk. I tried your method and can confirm switching ignition on/off does not prime. I tried it but my OCD did not allow me to crank before checking. When I opened the fuel filter reservoir it did not have any more diesel than when I replaced the filter. I added about 12oz of diesel with some PS Diesel Kleen and poured into the reservoir, turned key a few more times and I cranked it on with no problems! I appreciate your channel thanks for the content!
Glad for the confirmation then! I know on the old TDIs this method would work I guess I sort of assumed that on this one too. Probably also depends on how much diesel is actually in the reservoir. Tbh I’ve done 2 filter changes and both times 0 metal particles or shavings on the filter or inside. Maybe I’m just lucky then lol
@@DAriashi my car was perfect but had engine light and temperature was low, got told it's fuel temperature sensor, I removed it Ans now it don't start,it's air locked. I removed the sensor that is attached to the fuel filter and engine,it comes of a T pipe that sat just under the engine cover
@@DAriascould you please help me
Thanks for the video. 2 cents here.....Buy a VCDS for priming fuel pump activation. It will pay for itself multiple over since you don't have to pay for service
Can confirm the key cycle method does in fact work with no issues!
Yessir! I’ve done it on my personal car and a few friends cars with no fail at all
How do you key cycle if the car is a push button start. Push the button without foot on pedal?
How do you do it if push button start?
@@craigstaul839 that’s the only logical method. Unless a shop does it they can hook it up to a computer and manually prime it
Good video. Easy maintenance that you can save a few hundred dollars on if you take it somewhere to get done.
A few hundred for a fuel filter? Call your local authorities on your mechanic
Good video! Absolutely works with switching the key on and off. Obviously if you have software though just use that. Key method works great though if you prime it enough.
Thanks bato this actually worked on my TDI
Nice!!
Very helpful, i needed quite a lot of paper towel as it squirted 😂. If it’s a CR TDI I personally would not risk no bleeding / priming with vcds or similar.
I JUST DID MINE BRO! I don't think cycling the ignition button turns my pump on tho, couldn't hear anything pressing it on and off (my 2013 JSW TDI is a keyless start,with the ignition button) but I topped off the cannister with clean diesel to try and avoid any air bubbles. no metal shavings either, woo!
Is it okay to fill up the housing with additive instead of diesel if removing the diesel to clean it out?
I wouldn’t fill it up entirely with additive but people do add a bit into the housing to top off with the diesel
Great video! Good explanation
Thank you!
Does brand matter? Wix was recommended to me half the price of vw oem thoughts?
Brand doesn’t matter much but I can tell you wix is a great brand for sure
@DArias I got scared and went with the vw brand lol they don't even give any detailed information about their fuel filter so it's impossible to know without actually testing in an experiment if the oem brand really makes that much of a difference and I couldn't find such tests on RUclips... I guess I just figure the fuel pump and injectors are at stake and really the last line of defense is the fuel filter so for a 55.00 difference every 2 ish years it's probably w small difference in price
Thanks for the video 👍🏽
Anytime!
I was told on the newer tdi the pump will not cycle with the key on ???
Thank you so much! worked perfect
Glad to hear it!
Cycling the ignition does not purge air from this MK. On earlier cars yes.
I’ve personally heard both that it does and doesn’t..maybe I’ve just gotten lucky not finding any metal the 2 times I’ve changed the filter with success
@@DArias Yes people do it this way. But the pump is not running on this MK when you turn on the ignition. And yes I'm a mechanic.
Not saying you’re wrong at all haha just have heard both sides of it that’s all
@@darrylg7600 So VCDS is the only way to do it without risking damage to HPFP?
@@paulwary imo yes
Question: what happens to the air that is purged from the canister? Does diesel from the tank pass through the bottom of the filter canister on its way to the fuel pump and ultimately to the combustion cylinders?
not an expert or mechanic but pretty sure the air and some extra fuel goes back into the diesel tank from the fuel return lines...
So just cycle to accessory and let it sit on accessory for 15 seconds > turn car off > cycle acc 15 seconds > turn off, 2 or 3 more times?
Yessir, when you cycle to accessory it kicks the fuel pump on priming end lubricating the system. In this video I did it like 7 times to be extra extra safe but this technique is effective
Have used this method myself in the past with no issues what so ever. Cycling key pretty much does the same thing as a Vcds or obd11
Ty!
Anytime!
Thanks. Wanderfull video. 👍
Thanks!
Thank you very much
Looks like your still running the CP4 High pressure pump....HPFP. They go out and it is costly Check out my channel for cp3 upgrade and get it changed before it goes bad. Those metal shavings come up so fast you cant catch it in advance. Most guys are not passing 120k miles before it goes. Were talking 9000 at the dealer repair.
Would the key cycle method work on my 2012 Golf TDI?
I’ve been told 2 things that on the cjaa the lift pump doesn’t actuate like the old TDIs do but I’ve had multiple Vw techs tell me that the method still works regardless as when you cycle the key it’ll pressurize the system forcing out the air. I did 2 fuel filters on my wagon with the key method and never once had any issues
@@DArias thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly. I truly appreciate it! Gonna try this out as soon as the filter comes in! :)
what about the 2 tube filter?
Is 15k-20k miles crucial?
Yes I would say that’s like the sweet spot to change the filter out
@@DArias I've been running two VW TDI's since 1986. Have owned Passat's and Jetta's. I never used to change filters until 60K. That's what the first recommendation from VW was. I still rarely do it before 35K and have never had a fuel related issue of any kind. I keep my fuel tank as clean as possible (Including a water separator) and always treat the fuel. Every time I change the filter I inspect and clean the canister and RARELY find any dirt or filings. I've begun to believe the 20K recommendation is a conspiracy to sell more filters or a CYA by dealers and repair people.
@@scottcampbell8482 Exactly
Cycling the key WILL NOT run any of the 2 pumps. Therefore, there will be air in your system and CP4 pumps don't like unlubricated (diesel) runs. Please go to the tank and run the pump under the seat or the secondary, or get the software .
What if you don’t have a key meaning what if you have pushbutton start how do you do it
No clutch/brake depressed
thank you
Of course!
I got the same car. I believe same color.
The best daily on the planet! Haha
If you had an issue with the cycling method, how would you know? What could or would happen?
I did you method like 4-5 times with 15 second wait times and it started as normal
Your car would have a rough start or stall etc. if you car is driving like normal and started no issues you’re good! Many people state that the key cycling method doesn’t work on the cjaa as it did older models because the lift pump doesn’t activate but have had techs at Vw and Audi confirm it will still help push air out of the system when the key is cycled and the fuel pump is activated so you’re good man
@@DArias ok cool first start up was fine, second one cranked like 5 times then started but after that; was good
Cycling key on/off DOES NOT priime the pump on the TDI!
Jesil ti video liniju da ti je taj stari filter pocijepan uzimao je naftu bez filtera
Changing the diesel fuel filter is totally overrated. I have seen fuel filters doing more than 150k miles and still looking like new, this is nothing like an oil filter. Fuel is always fresh and basically only needs filtering for the occasional, odd particle in the fuel, which - at least in western countries - thankfully is rare nowadays.
The only real reason to have a filter in there at all is to protect from a failing fuel pump, as its metal pieces would cause irreparable damage to the engine. (and another reason is to separate off water)
However, these shavings will sit at the bottom of the filter HOUSING (with the water) and not even reach up to the filter itself, so changing the filter without cleaning the bottom of the housing cavity (as it is shown here) is absolutely nonsensical.
Ironically, allowing the fuel pump to run dry - even very shortly (as you do it in your video) - will CAUSE the fuel pump to fail and brake - and THAT IS THE SITUATION when you DO get the aforementioned metal shavings - just by causing exactly what you are trying to prevent, you see?
Just keep your diesel filter in there, it will last forever and it is way too large to ever clog up with debris.
Unless of course, your car is very old and you have a tank which is rusty ... but then you have an entirely different problem you might want to look into ...
Have you ever owned a diesel? Drive any of these TDIs, a duramax, cummins or power stroke 100K miles on a single fuel filter and let me know how much power she still makes..
@@cuddy9215 this.
Be careful bro, you tightened too much it’s 5Nm