After seeing how low the water pressure was in this house I decided to get a pressure booster found here. amzn.to/3sStm7d I went from 30psi up to near 70psi in about 30 minutes worth of labor! Well worth it!
Thx for the comprehensive video. I'm in South Africa and the water infrastructure in my area is old. Main water pipes have frequently burst in my road over the years and as a result council have noticeably reduced the water pressure. During peak times it takes my top loader washing machines 45 minutes to fill to the top if there is a full load in it. My plumber said I need a separate 1000l tank with booster pump so I canned the idea. Your video has inspired to take action. Thank you!
Thanks for all the info. After watching this video i have just ordered a pump from cri. I live on a farm in south africa and we only have groundwater being pump into a above groind jojo tank so our pressure is around 15 psi. Thank you
I have enough water pressure hovering just below 60 psi, but id like a little more. I cant find a water pressure regulator so i figure my house just doesnt have one, so this is basically exactly what i was looking for. Thanks for the demonstration and explanation!
Thanks for watching. In your case since most boosters will double pressure you will want to add a pressure regulator as well because if you double your current pressure you will probably blow out fittings in your lines because it will be too high. The regulator will allow you to adjust it back down but still be higher than your current pressure.
@@b.vo. If you don't understand when someone is making a point when addressing you that would explain why you can't understand why 60psi is good water pressure. Thanks for clarifying that for me.
@@stoneyswolf if you don't understand that there is an infinite number of reasons that you have no possible way of knowing then I can't help you. You know what they say about assuming.
Thanks for the detailed instruction. It's a bit concerning there was no mention of an expansion tank when, according to your responses in the comments, you have one. Had I not read the comments, I never would have known. Maybe edit the video or at a minimum add a note in the description that you are in fact utilizing an expansion tank.
Thanks for watching. I can add a comment in the description. I just took for granted all systems have expansion tanks. Maybe some areas do not? I know here it is code to already have one in your system. They are usually always mounted near your hot water tank and not at the beginning of the system like the booster pump.
No expansion tanks where I am at. Never seen a house around here with one, although I’m sure they are out there. Just built a new house, no tank on that either.
@@BrianWingard ah, okay, yes, I do have a small expansion tank by my hot water heater (after the heater). Is there a way to limit the boost on this pump? My current pressure is around 43 just inside the meter. I don't want this to boost another 40 so I end up over 80 psi.
Thanks so much for this video! What is considered "normal" pressure for a residential home? Mine comes in at 40psi closest to the street. I'm wondering if I would be able to tell the difference between a 5psi and 10psi increase. What's the difference between a booster like this, and one with a larger tank? Why are some of these pumps $150 and some $600? Is there a difference in type or is it just a matter of quality? How loud is it?
The majority of people in the comments doesn't understand pressure and how volume affects it. Your static pressure is your pressure that's what you have. When you start water flowing that's your running pressure and it's limited by the volume available. If you don't have the volume available because your supply pipe is restricted a booster pump won't fix the problem.
I’m curious if damage would occur to pump if city water is cutoff some reason. Would it burn pump up or does pump have a safety feature to prevent that. Great video
Thanks for watching. That is a great question and I need to look into that. I would imagine there would be a fail safe but if there was not I would imagine it could burn up the pump if ran for too long with no pressure.
@@BrianWingard yes that black pump switch on the top is designed to stop working when there is no water. There is a failure lamp on it which tells you that the water supply has been cut off
Good video. Thank! I have a rental property with very little water pressure that I just remodeled and did some pretty nice bathrooms including one with double shower heads. I’m considering adding a booster pump like you’ve done here. Presumably, this is configurations boosts the hot water supply pressure too? I’m just trying to think how pressurize the water into the hot water tank is affected…. Thanks!
Thanks for stopping back! After a year of use it is still working great! I have it in one of my rentals and pressure has been great still. I would definitely buy this brand again.
Thank you for the info, but just one question...why is a pressure tank not needed in this system? I'm thinkin it's something to do with flow/pressure, but could you explain more about tankless systems? Thank you
Thank you for watching. A tank is still required in the system. It is farther down the line which you can not see in this video. I just assumed since most all plumbing has the tanks I did not need to mention it in the video.
in the house i rent ,the entire house the pressure it is good,but kitchen it is bad very low.i changed faucet and still the same.what should I do to increase to strongest pressure?
There has to be a problem from the shutoff to the faucet. First thing i would do is remove the flex hose from the faucet and aim it in a bucket then turn each hot and cold shutoff back on. There may be debris in the line as I have had this before. First see if you have full pressure there out of the flex hose on each side. If you do then you probably have a blockage in the faucet. You can unscrew the tip off of it and you will see a screen. See if it is full of debris and clean it. Even if you installed a new one if there was debris in the line it will clog the screen instantly. Hope this helps.
another reason for the flex line is to protect the pipe joints, after time they would fail from vibration. do the same thing with electrical connections to motors
only gives you another 40 PSI according to specs on box for this model. The one I am replacing boosts 70 PSI. Hmmm... Is there a way I can still use this item and get somewhere close to the desired total pressure, by adjusting how much the inlet pressure would be. I am told it is 30-40 PSI now but I have not measured it myself.
Thanks for watching. Usually you do not want to exceed 80 max pressure total so you do not have issues with any fittings. You can actually add on a pressure reducing valve if your pump adds too much pressure. For those you simply find a reducing valve in the range of pressure you want and you can turn the nut on top to increase or reduce pressure. I would add this after the outlet so you can measure your pressure at a faucet or hose and adjust accordingly.
the water line from road to house which is about 60ft is galvanized. house was built originally in 1920. but all the pipes in my house are copper. water pressure drops dramatically if toilet is flushed or two sinks are running. especially if water machine is filling it takes like 15 mins.. do you think a booster would help in my situation?
Thanks for watching. It will definitely help. The house I did this in took forever for the bathtub or toilet to fill up and this doubles the amount of water flow. You do need to check to see what size pipe is coming into your house. 3/4 inch would be a good size and also what your pressure is. Some pumps you have to be within a range so it does not over pressure the line.
Instead of having a shutoff valve and then another valve for bypass, can you just have the bypass always connected but going through a check valve? So that if the pump dies the bypass just automatically works
You will still have to shut the water off though. The bipass only stops water from going backwards. You will still have full pressure going through the bipass. The bipass valve is one direction only going forward and prevents water from coming backwards.
Thanks for watching. It is installed before the pump. It prevents water from draining out of the pump so it is always primed. Also it prevents the pump from overheating since there will always be water in the pump.
Thanks for watching. Do you have a 3/4 mainline coming into the house? If you do I feel it will pressurize it to double based on how mine is working. It just takes a few seconds for the pump to work and since that is a little longer distance it may take a few seconds extra to get the pressure.
Thanks for watching. You would be putting this previous to any plumbing in the house that way the pump can pressurize the waters psi before it enters any faucets or water heater. Also if you do this after the water heater you will only be pressurizing the hot water and not the cold.
Thanks for watching. I have mine before my water heater as well. Did you check to make sure there was no leaks anywhere even outside? In order for it to keep running water has to be discharging somewhere.
A expansion tank is required in most jurisdictions at the water heater. Water hammer arrestors can also be installed. I have a pressure tank with a booster tank but have city water. Im thinking about removing that and going to the setup you have.
Thanks for watching! I actually do have an expansion tank on this system. It is in the other room near the water tank. I do not have any water hammer arrestors . I did the flex line instead. Best of luck if you decide to switch over! It is a fairly straight forward project.
@@MikeHaddadLawnAddictions I need to double check the directions on this when I get a chance. I know there is a maximum pressure that they recommend you do not start with. Let me see if I can find something. Mine was super low so it was within range. Just do not want to see you blow out your lines if it doubles it even though they can handle 100psi usually.
@@MikeHaddadLawnAddictions same here... About 43psi from the city, and upstairs down to 35 due to the height difference. Been trying to figure out if a booster would make sense for me, but worried about the longevity.
Thanks for watching. For myself I actually prefer it to copper because I can do one continous run to the faucet or connection and do not have to worry about joints in the wall ever leaking or breaking. I use PEX A and have many rentals. If they ever take off and leave in the winter pex A can freeze without breaking. I know it is cheaper but the advantages above are the main reason I use it.
So you don't need a reservoir tank to pull from? I just had my water turned on. The water line from the road to the house is about 500ft. Water pressure is 20 at best.
Thanks for watching. You do not need a reservoir tank for this. The pump does all of the work for you. The only thing you will notice is when you first turn it on you may have 1-2 seconds of low pressure before it fully ramps up to full pressure. The pressure for mine was insanely different in a good way after this.
Thanks for watching! That is pretty low! I know they have some that boost even more pressure. Do you have 3/4 or 1/2 pipe coming into your home? May want to check to see if you have a pressure reducer in the line.
@@BrianWingard it's galvanized steel pipe not sure the inner diameter. I would guess it is 1/2 inch judging by virtually all of the exterior hose connections that are embedded in the slab foundation. All of the sink connections too.. but some are bigger so hopefully the one from the street is 3/4 and all the house internal ones are the smaller so I can redo those one day lol. Just bought the house about 7 days ago was checking the street valve today to make sure it was fully on. I am scared to do what you did, cuz I don't want to deal with a pipe bursting in the wall.. going to run some 3/4 inch or maybe even 1 inch pex to one sink from the inlet in the water heater room and then do the pressure pump there and just do 1 thing at a time with the good pressure and slowly replace it all.
@@emissarygw2264 yea they're fine.. sad cuz it wasn't enough, should have turned on the whole house lmao. Faucet trick + flushing toilet doesn't work I guess, always thought it did.
After seeing how low the water pressure was in this house I decided to get a pressure booster found here. amzn.to/3sStm7d I went from 30psi up to near 70psi in about 30 minutes worth of labor! Well worth it!
Thx for the comprehensive video. I'm in South Africa and the water infrastructure in my area is old. Main water pipes have frequently burst in my road over the years and as a result council have noticeably reduced the water pressure. During peak times it takes my top loader washing machines 45 minutes to fill to the top if there is a full load in it. My plumber said I need a separate 1000l tank with booster pump so I canned the idea. Your video has inspired to take action. Thank you!
Thanks for all the info. After watching this video i have just ordered a pump from cri. I live on a farm in south africa and we only have groundwater being pump into a above groind jojo tank so our pressure is around 15 psi. Thank you
I have enough water pressure hovering just below 60 psi, but id like a little more. I cant find a water pressure regulator so i figure my house just doesnt have one, so this is basically exactly what i was looking for. Thanks for the demonstration and explanation!
Thanks for watching. In your case since most boosters will double pressure you will want to add a pressure regulator as well because if you double your current pressure you will probably blow out fittings in your lines because it will be too high. The regulator will allow you to adjust it back down but still be higher than your current pressure.
60 psi isn't good enough for you? You know if you need more pressure washing your car down there's a thing called a pressure washer.
@@stoneyswolf can you show me where I said I had problems washing my car?
@@b.vo. If you don't understand when someone is making a point when addressing you that would explain why you can't understand why 60psi is good water pressure. Thanks for clarifying that for me.
@@stoneyswolf if you don't understand that there is an infinite number of reasons that you have no possible way of knowing then I can't help you. You know what they say about assuming.
I've seen 5 of these idk why. But this is the first one that has it right.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the detailed instruction. It's a bit concerning there was no mention of an expansion tank when, according to your responses in the comments, you have one. Had I not read the comments, I never would have known. Maybe edit the video or at a minimum add a note in the description that you are in fact utilizing an expansion tank.
Thanks for watching. I can add a comment in the description. I just took for granted all systems have expansion tanks. Maybe some areas do not? I know here it is code to already have one in your system. They are usually always mounted near your hot water tank and not at the beginning of the system like the booster pump.
No expansion tanks where I am at. Never seen a house around here with one, although I’m sure they are out there. Just built a new house, no tank on that either.
@@BrianWingard ah, okay, yes, I do have a small expansion tank by my hot water heater (after the heater). Is there a way to limit the boost on this pump? My current pressure is around 43 just inside the meter. I don't want this to boost another 40 so I end up over 80 psi.
Thanks so much for this video! What is considered "normal" pressure for a residential home? Mine comes in at 40psi closest to the street. I'm wondering if I would be able to tell the difference between a 5psi and 10psi increase. What's the difference between a booster like this, and one with a larger tank? Why are some of these pumps $150 and some $600? Is there a difference in type or is it just a matter of quality? How loud is it?
The majority of people in the comments doesn't understand pressure and how volume affects it. Your static pressure is your pressure that's what you have. When you start water flowing that's your running pressure and it's limited by the volume available. If you don't have the volume available because your supply pipe is restricted a booster pump won't fix the problem.
I’m curious if damage would occur to pump if city water is cutoff some reason. Would it burn pump up or does pump have a safety feature to prevent that. Great video
Thanks for watching. That is a great question and I need to look into that. I would imagine there would be a fail safe but if there was not I would imagine it could burn up the pump if ran for too long with no pressure.
@@BrianWingard yes that black pump switch on the top is designed to stop working when there is no water. There is a failure lamp on it which tells you that the water supply has been cut off
Good video. Thank! I have a rental property with very little water pressure that I just remodeled and did some pretty nice bathrooms including one with double shower heads. I’m considering adding a booster pump like you’ve done here. Presumably, this is configurations boosts the hot water supply pressure too? I’m just trying to think how pressurize the water into the hot water tank is affected…. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! This boosts both cold and hot water. The hot does take an extra second it seems like to pressurize but it is barely noticeable.
Hi Brian, curious how’s the reliability of that pump after 1 year? Still runs good or would you buy something else
Thanks for stopping back! After a year of use it is still working great! I have it in one of my rentals and pressure has been great still. I would definitely buy this brand again.
Thank you for the info, but just one question...why is a pressure tank not needed in this system? I'm thinkin it's something to do with flow/pressure, but could you explain more about tankless systems?
Thank you
Thank you for watching. A tank is still required in the system. It is farther down the line which you can not see in this video. I just assumed since most all plumbing has the tanks I did not need to mention it in the video.
in the house i rent ,the entire house the pressure it is good,but kitchen it is bad very low.i changed faucet and still the same.what should I do to increase to strongest pressure?
I wish a very strong water pressure to 100% very high .is that possible to get it?
There has to be a problem from the shutoff to the faucet. First thing i would do is remove the flex hose from the faucet and aim it in a bucket then turn each hot and cold shutoff back on. There may be debris in the line as I have had this before. First see if you have full pressure there out of the flex hose on each side. If you do then you probably have a blockage in the faucet. You can unscrew the tip off of it and you will see a screen. See if it is full of debris and clean it. Even if you installed a new one if there was debris in the line it will clog the screen instantly. Hope this helps.
another reason for the flex line is to protect the pipe joints, after time they would fail from vibration. do the same thing with electrical connections to motors
Thanks for watching! Great point I was not even thinking about the joints. Thanks for sharing.
only gives you another 40 PSI according to specs on box for this model. The one I am replacing boosts 70 PSI.
Hmmm... Is there a way I can still use this item and get somewhere close to the desired total pressure, by adjusting how much the inlet pressure would be. I am told it is 30-40 PSI now but I have not measured it myself.
Thanks for watching. Usually you do not want to exceed 80 max pressure total so you do not have issues with any fittings. You can actually add on a pressure reducing valve if your pump adds too much pressure. For those you simply find a reducing valve in the range of pressure you want and you can turn the nut on top to increase or reduce pressure. I would add this after the outlet so you can measure your pressure at a faucet or hose and adjust accordingly.
the water line from road to house which is about 60ft is galvanized. house was built originally in 1920. but all the pipes in my house are copper. water pressure drops dramatically if toilet is flushed or two sinks are running. especially if water machine is filling it takes like 15 mins.. do you think a booster would help in my situation?
Thanks for watching. It will definitely help. The house I did this in took forever for the bathtub or toilet to fill up and this doubles the amount of water flow. You do need to check to see what size pipe is coming into your house. 3/4 inch would be a good size and also what your pressure is. Some pumps you have to be within a range so it does not over pressure the line.
I would install a Prv !!!! Or swap it if u have one and adjust it to your desired pressure
Instead of having a shutoff valve and then another valve for bypass, can you just have the bypass always connected but going through a check valve? So that if the pump dies the bypass just automatically works
You will still have to shut the water off though. The bipass only stops water from going backwards. You will still have full pressure going through the bipass. The bipass valve is one direction only going forward and prevents water from coming backwards.
Had you considered adding a tank post pump to help with pressure drop during use rather the pump kicking on/off during every use.
Make sure your outlet is GFCI protected, but awesome video!
Thanks for watching! Good call on the gfci! I actually changed it out after I made the video.
Why? What happens if it’s not GFCI?
how is that simer boost pump holding up
Thanks for watching. Still going great!
Can this be used in conjunction with a well?
Thanks for watching Steve, Unfortunately I do not have any experience with wells. Maybe another viewer will see your question and be able to answer.
Does check vale install before inlet pump or after outlet pump?
Thanks for watching. It is installed before the pump. It prevents water from draining out of the pump so it is always primed. Also it prevents the pump from overheating since there will always be water in the pump.
I have 40psi at the main, 10ft above and 60ft to the back is the last faucet and get 25psi. Will this get thay last faucet to at least 50psi?
Thanks for watching. Do you have a 3/4 mainline coming into the house? If you do I feel it will pressurize it to double based on how mine is working. It just takes a few seconds for the pump to work and since that is a little longer distance it may take a few seconds extra to get the pressure.
Anyone know if you would put a booster like this on the input side or output side of the water heater?
Thanks for watching. You would be putting this previous to any plumbing in the house that way the pump can pressurize the waters psi before it enters any faucets or water heater. Also if you do this after the water heater you will only be pressurizing the hot water and not the cold.
@@BrianWingard Thanks. Trying to figure out where I can do this lol.
Do you think I can hook up the pump at my Washing machine? This is like the only place I have room, electricity to hook up the pump...
Mine is running continuously. I have mine installed before the hot water heater. Does that matter?
Thanks for watching. I have mine before my water heater as well. Did you check to make sure there was no leaks anywhere even outside? In order for it to keep running water has to be discharging somewhere.
as many have mentioned a pressure tank would have made this a much better installation.
Thanks for watching. There is already a pressure tank in the system before I added this pump
. I just showed the booster pump only.
A expansion tank is required in most jurisdictions at the water heater. Water hammer arrestors can also be installed. I have a pressure tank with a booster tank but have city water. Im thinking about removing that and going to the setup you have.
Thanks for watching! I actually do have an expansion tank on this system. It is in the other room near the water tank. I do not have any water hammer arrestors . I did the flex line instead. Best of luck if you decide to switch over! It is a fairly straight forward project.
Good job Brian. Much appreciated.
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it.
Great detail in this video.
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it. Lots more videos like this to come.
Still working good?
Thanks for watching. So far so good. I still need to make my update video on it. Just been busy working all the time.
@@BrianWingard good to hear. I have city water about 45-50 psi. Looking for 60ish
@@MikeHaddadLawnAddictions I need to double check the directions on this when I get a chance. I know there is a maximum pressure that they recommend you do not start with. Let me see if I can find something. Mine was super low so it was within range. Just do not want to see you blow out your lines if it doubles it even though they can handle 100psi usually.
@@MikeHaddadLawnAddictions same here... About 43psi from the city, and upstairs down to 35 due to the height difference. Been trying to figure out if a booster would make sense for me, but worried about the longevity.
Lifesaver!
Thank you sir
Thanks for watching!
Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Eeew, thank God I read the comments also, or I would have installed without the tank also.
Thanks good video just get a GFI as soon as possible
Thanks!
Thank you so much! It is greatly appreciated and plenty more videos coming out soon.
Did you get good pressure in the entire house with the pump?
With PEX lasting a max of 50 years, it blows my mind "cost" is the reason it's used in many modern houses.
Thanks for watching. For myself I actually prefer it to copper because I can do one continous run to the faucet or connection and do not have to worry about joints in the wall ever leaking or breaking. I use PEX A and have many rentals. If they ever take off and leave in the winter pex A can freeze without breaking. I know it is cheaper but the advantages above are the main reason I use it.
So you don't need a reservoir tank to pull from? I just had my water turned on. The water line from the road to the house is about 500ft. Water pressure is 20 at best.
Thanks for watching. You do not need a reservoir tank for this. The pump does all of the work for you. The only thing you will notice is when you first turn it on you may have 1-2 seconds of low pressure before it fully ramps up to full pressure. The pressure for mine was insanely different in a good way after this.
boosting water directly from water mains is not legal in some countries.
Check valve is nessassary
You didnt need the flex connectors seeing you are using pex piping.
I got like 22 psi lmao.. sad days
Thanks for watching! That is pretty low! I know they have some that boost even more pressure. Do you have 3/4 or 1/2 pipe coming into your home? May want to check to see if you have a pressure reducer in the line.
@@BrianWingard it's galvanized steel pipe not sure the inner diameter. I would guess it is 1/2 inch judging by virtually all of the exterior hose connections that are embedded in the slab foundation. All of the sink connections too.. but some are bigger so hopefully the one from the street is 3/4 and all the house internal ones are the smaller so I can redo those one day lol. Just bought the house about 7 days ago was checking the street valve today to make sure it was fully on.
I am scared to do what you did, cuz I don't want to deal with a pipe bursting in the wall.. going to run some 3/4 inch or maybe even 1 inch pex to one sink from the inlet in the water heater room and then do the pressure pump there and just do 1 thing at a time with the good pressure and slowly replace it all.
@@gg-gn3reyikes did you try turning on the faucets before buying? 😅 I didn't, and sorta regret it.
@@emissarygw2264 yea they're fine.. sad cuz it wasn't enough, should have turned on the whole house lmao. Faucet trick + flushing toilet doesn't work I guess, always thought it did.