Nice job on the assembly! I used the same pistons back in 1980s on my 428cj. We used the c clip on the pins and I never had one fail. If you install them right they don't fail. You must put the flat side of the clip to the outside of the piston. The curved side to the pin. We ran our 428cj up to 7000 rpm all the time with no problem. Can't wait to see your next video!
that’s awesome, I don’t know if I would do a 7k pull im too chicken hahaha but I have also heard about installing the true arcs the correct way. I couldn’t find the correct true arcs though, nobody makes the correct thickness for these old pistons unfortunately
I got a 428 with a c6 transmission in a 1965 f250 truck for $500 at an estate sale in centralia, washington. Do you guys have a master list of mods you'll be doing? I can't seem to understand where to start, what should be changed, etc in a 428 build?
@@npc_retired I would say start with getting the Ford Fe Book by Barry Rabotnick. You’ll see a lot of the stuff I’m doing to the 428 in the previous videos from that book. But all depends how far you want to build it
Great tips. I remember a long time ago - like in the 90s - I helped a neighbor who ended up with enough parts to build 3 FE short blocks (390s) because he'd bought up all he could find for his project car. He fab'd a homemade tool for locking the wrist pins which I'm now assuming were spiral lock. I just remember watching him use what looked like a modified socket and some kind of ram or tool he slid down it to get the lock to seat. I'm sure he turned both to make the set. Just didn't think to ask him about it at the time.
I'm not sure if you are planning to do anything with the undercarriage to prevent rust. I wonder if spraying that truck bed-liner coating would work for the undercarriage and engine compartment before installing the engine and transmission. Here's another idea for those aluminum heads, they can be anodized, which protects the finish and can be done in various colors too. Impressive job assembling and installing those pistons!
Yes, the whole underside of the galaxie was painted with por-15 I’m sure I’ll cover it in a future video . But that’s a great idea on the aluminum heads. I’ll have to look into that and see if anyone does it around my area.
Another great video dude, Genuinely hoping you're finished with this series before i start my 390 haha. Still waiting on the machine shop to finish my heads. Hoping it all goes as smooth as yours.
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I'm flying out to Florida end of April so my build won't start until atleast end of may once back in the UK. Will absolutely reach out when the time comes, thank you
I have never had a hog-clip failure... I'm surprised, if you were sanding them to fit...you didn't buy a fine and extra fine Dimond sanding block. Those are some handsome pistons though
OH MAN! The heads that you ordered are going to be awesome on this build. Are you going to port match the intake manifold to the new heads? I hope that you do. It really does make a big difference. Ask around about an intake manifold for your engine and all the goodies that you put inside, like the camshaft and the compression ratio of the pistons. Getting the right manifold is a big deal, oh, plus how hard you are going to drive it once in a while. Do you want a low RPM response or a mid to higher RPM response? Well, Omar, I'm wishing you all the best luck on the engine build. God bless.
Thanks Gordon! I will certainly look into port matching the intake. I am going with an original tri power set up. I think it will look really cool under the hood
I do not like the TRW Pistons but I love your videos man I try to run to stock 428 Super Cobra Jet pistons and you can get them 30 over you just got to look for them on eBay or something I got a set of 428 original Super Pistons from Ford 30 over but I love your video man keep up the good work that's just me I just I'll be on motors with the TRW pistons and I really don't care for those but I love your video man and I like your your 428 and your build it's really good and I love the way you're done the rods
That should be a really nice running engine when it's all together. What is your piston skirt clearance? I used 2021 manufactured L2291F30 pistons on my 390 and the machine shop set the clearances to .003" It must be just right, no piston slap and no problems.
I’ll have to double check the clearance. A nice dial bore gauge is pretty expensive but the machinist said it was set for forged pistons. I’m guessing around .003-.004
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie Right on. The Mahle power pak pistons in my 445 stroker were set to like .0045". Those are quiet too, but the exhaust is so loud it's hard to tell LOL
You may have covered it in a previous video but besides ring in gap you also have piston to cylinder clearance . I saw the pistons were numbered so i'm assuming the machine shop matched honed each cylinder bore to fit the numbered pistons . Just asking .. Good job otherwise . You are using what we in the trade call good shop practices ...
Yes each piston was honed to each cylinder. The machinist told me it was set up for forged pistons about .003 to .004. I will confirm once I buy a dual bore gauge but they are Pretty expensive
There is no need to use a spiral lock in place of the c clip. If you see a high failure rate with c clips it would be failure to install them properly. You are more likly to have a failure now becouse you changed the design of how the piston & piston pin are sapposed to be held together. There are no failures do to c clips. There are only failures do to people not putting them all the way into the groove like they are sapposed too. Somtimes they can be slightly challenging?? Maybey but not really. They are probably one of assembling a engines easiest thing to do really. Spiraial locks are much more hassle & tricky to get them into place. Im sure especially when they are not even sapposed to be used like in your case. Failure do to c clips is absolutely nonsense. Why would they? There is no pressure or force working against them?? They simply go along for the ride & simply create a barrier so the pin dousnt eventually walk out. But the pin isn't really trying too. All the pressure is on the pin moving up & down, not side to side.
I hear ya, I have read articles where they say maximum end pin to lock clearance should be .010 or less. If I could find the correct thickness tru arcs I would have probably used them but none are available. The spiroloc and tru arc are interchangeable because of the square groove in the piston. I’m sure most people wouldn’t go this route, but I really don’t think these will come out as it’s pretty difficult. The only other option is to open up the groove but no machinist near me does it. I guess we’ll see once it’s fired up haha thanks for watching
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I think (& hope) you won't have a problem either. But I believe by changing a component that was part of the piston rod assembly I believe you raised your chances of a potential problem. I understand they can be interchangeable but they are not the same & one was infact designed & meant to work with your components. I understand changing parts & things within the engine to make them better but I think you changed somthing that might have made you feel better but I dont think you made your engine any better & I think you chanced introducing a higher potential problem. But I do wish you well & happy motering. I do hope that everything works out the way you want it too.
TRW pistons, Excellent!
Great build, Omar!
It great to see yong guys into old engines like the FE
Nice job on the assembly! I used the same pistons back in 1980s on my 428cj. We used the c clip on the pins and I never had one fail. If you install them right they don't fail. You must put the flat side of the clip to the outside of the piston. The curved side to the pin. We ran our 428cj up to 7000 rpm all the time with no problem. Can't wait to see your next video!
that’s awesome, I don’t know if I would do a 7k pull im too chicken hahaha but I have also heard about installing the true arcs the correct way. I couldn’t find the correct true arcs though, nobody makes the correct thickness for these old pistons unfortunately
Great job, always a great moment when you see your rotating assembly complete, and turning by itself with the crank !
I've got a 428 sitting around I've been trying to scrap up the money to build. Really enjoying seeing you put this one together.
That’s awesome man, these 428s are getting hard to find now
I got a 428 with a c6 transmission in a 1965 f250 truck for $500 at an estate sale in centralia, washington. Do you guys have a master list of mods you'll be doing? I can't seem to understand where to start, what should be changed, etc in a 428 build?
@@npc_retired I would say start with getting the Ford Fe Book by Barry Rabotnick. You’ll see a lot of the stuff I’m doing to the 428 in the previous videos from that book. But all depends how far you want to build it
Nice work, excellent video👍.
Damn man, that is looking great. I can't wait to see it with the new heads!
it’s going to be killer with the aluminum heads, I’ve never had aluminum heads so I’m really excited for that!
Look-in Good Man. Can't wait to see the completed long block and finally the install.
Thanks! I plan to build an engine run stand to make sure it’s ready to drop in
Amazing video man, loved the music choice for the piston and rod assembly!
Haha thanks appreciate it!!
Great tips. I remember a long time ago - like in the 90s - I helped a neighbor who ended up with enough parts to build 3 FE short blocks (390s) because he'd bought up all he could find for his project car. He fab'd a homemade tool for locking the wrist pins which I'm now assuming were spiral lock. I just remember watching him use what looked like a modified socket and some kind of ram or tool he slid down it to get the lock to seat. I'm sure he turned both to make the set. Just didn't think to ask him about it at the time.
Wow that’s pretty cool, I haven’t seen a tool to install the locks but I think they do make one now. Did he do a stock type build?
Nice work...take your time doin it right!!...awesome
Appreciate it thank!
That looks beautiful man. You're a pretty good mechanic. Can't wait for the heads. Don't worry Omar she will sound sweet.
I’m excited for the heads too! Never had aluminum heads before
Seems like a well thought out solution on the pistons!
Yes I think that was the easiest way to make it work. And it seems like it worked out pretty good!
well done dude. thanks for sharing.
You know. I just watch your channel for the music. Ha ha ha. Just kidding. Good job Omar.
Hahaha I try to pick the best music for the videos. Thanks for watching
Keep up the build don't rush it be very sure it's right before you button it up
Thanks! I’m definitely taking my time on it and double checking the assembly
Nice appreciate your attention to detail
Appreciate thanks!
I'm not sure if you are planning to do anything with the undercarriage to prevent rust. I wonder if spraying that truck bed-liner coating would work for the undercarriage and engine compartment before installing the engine and transmission. Here's another idea for those aluminum heads, they can be anodized, which protects the finish and can be done in various colors too. Impressive job assembling and installing those pistons!
Yes, the whole underside of the galaxie was painted with por-15 I’m sure I’ll cover it in a future video . But that’s a great idea on the aluminum heads. I’ll have to look into that and see if anyone does it around my area.
Another great video dude, Genuinely hoping you're finished with this series before i start my 390 haha. Still waiting on the machine shop to finish my heads. Hoping it all goes as smooth as yours.
Awesome! Any questions let me know. Unfortunately the Edelbrock heads are back ordered until may so hopefully It won’t take longer than that
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I'm flying out to Florida end of April so my build won't start until atleast end of may once back in the UK. Will absolutely reach out when the time comes, thank you
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie going to be restoring my built 390 guy I bought it from said it’s stroke to a 428
I have never had a hog-clip failure... I'm surprised, if you were sanding them to fit...you didn't buy a fine and extra fine Dimond sanding block. Those are some handsome pistons though
OH MAN! The heads that you ordered are going to be awesome on this build. Are you going to port match the intake manifold to the new heads? I hope that you do. It really does make a big difference.
Ask around about an intake manifold for your engine and all the goodies that you put inside, like the camshaft and the compression ratio of the pistons. Getting the right manifold is a big deal, oh, plus how hard you are going to drive it once in a while. Do you want a low RPM response or a mid to higher RPM response? Well, Omar, I'm wishing you all the best luck on the engine build.
God bless.
Thanks Gordon! I will certainly look into port matching the intake. I am going with an original tri power set up. I think it will look really cool under the hood
Hope you checked the ring gap at the bottom, middle, & top ofnthe cylinder?
I do not like the TRW Pistons but I love your videos man I try to run to stock 428 Super Cobra Jet pistons and you can get them 30 over you just got to look for them on eBay or something I got a set of 428 original Super Pistons from Ford 30 over but I love your video man keep up the good work that's just me I just I'll be on motors with the TRW pistons and I really don't care for those but I love your video man and I like your your 428 and your build it's really good and I love the way you're done the rods
Appreciate it, never used TRW but we’ll see how they work out. About ready to fire it up
I thought the "f" on the part # meant it was forged. You sure thoes arn't cast versions?
That should be a really nice running engine when it's all together. What is your piston skirt clearance? I used 2021 manufactured L2291F30 pistons on my 390 and the machine shop set the clearances to .003" It must be just right, no piston slap and no problems.
I’ll have to double check the clearance. A nice dial bore gauge is pretty expensive but the machinist said it was set for forged pistons. I’m guessing around .003-.004
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie Right on. The Mahle power pak pistons in my 445 stroker were set to like .0045". Those are quiet too, but the exhaust is so loud it's hard to tell LOL
You may have covered it in a previous video but besides ring in gap you also have piston to cylinder clearance . I saw the pistons were numbered so i'm assuming the machine shop matched honed each cylinder bore to fit the numbered pistons . Just asking .. Good job otherwise . You are using what we in the trade call good shop practices ...
Yes each piston was honed to each cylinder. The machinist told me it was set up for forged pistons about .003 to .004. I will confirm once I buy a dual bore gauge but they are
Pretty expensive
Totally awesome! What cam will you use?
I got a custom grind roller cam from Oregon cams. Check out the video before this one!
👍😎
We’re gonna put those tubular arms to use once the engine is running haha
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie keep me posted on how they work out. I am a ways away from get my car on the road yet.
Better to be loose, than to be tight....🤔
There is no need to use a spiral lock in place of the c clip. If you see a high failure rate with c clips it would be failure to install them properly. You are more likly to have a failure now becouse you changed the design of how the piston & piston pin are sapposed to be held together. There are no failures do to c clips. There are only failures do to people not putting them all the way into the groove like they are sapposed too. Somtimes they can be slightly challenging?? Maybey but not really. They are probably one of assembling a engines easiest thing to do really. Spiraial locks are much more hassle & tricky to get them into place. Im sure especially when they are not even sapposed to be used like in your case. Failure do to c clips is absolutely nonsense. Why would they? There is no pressure or force working against them?? They simply go along for the ride & simply create a barrier so the pin dousnt eventually walk out. But the pin isn't really trying too. All the pressure is on the pin moving up & down, not side to side.
I hear ya, I have read articles where they say maximum end pin to lock clearance should be .010 or less. If I could find the correct thickness tru arcs I would have probably used them but none are available. The spiroloc and tru arc are interchangeable because of the square groove in the piston. I’m sure most people wouldn’t go this route, but I really don’t think these will come out as it’s pretty difficult. The only other option is to open up the groove but no machinist near me does it. I guess we’ll see once it’s fired up haha thanks for watching
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I think (& hope) you won't have a problem either. But I believe by changing a component that was part of the piston rod assembly I believe you raised your chances of a potential problem. I understand they can be interchangeable but they are not the same & one was infact designed & meant to work with your components. I understand changing parts & things within the engine to make them better but I think you changed somthing that might have made you feel better but I dont think you made your engine any better & I think you chanced introducing a higher potential problem. But I do wish you well & happy motering. I do hope that everything works out the way you want it too.
@@jesseduke694 thanks for the info, I’ll double check and talk with the machinist. Definitely want to see if it will be a problem
Go to a machine shop