Hi Omar. Enjoying your videos. Thanks for doing them. Trying to learn what I can on the 428s. I just purchased a 1964 Galaxy which originally had a 390 but sometime in its history was swapped with a 428 crate motor (I think, because it has no serial number).
These are decent heads. I built a 428 for my Mercury Cougar about 15 years ago and used a set of the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with some light cleanup work in the ports and port matched to a Performer RPM intake. I used a pretty aggressive hydraulic flat tappet cam and 10.5:1 pistons and that engine ran like a dream. Sold the car a few years later, but I loved that 428.
i brought a bunch of parts for my subaru ej207 - custom heads = total was $14,000 YOUR DOING EVERYTHING REALLY WELL AND TOP JOB ! WELL DONE . THANK YOU .
You are doing it right brother! Chasing threads, trimming studs; I really liked, "the last thing you want to hear is POP and your torque wrench gets really loose" Been there, done that, REALLY didn't like it. I spoke a new language after that happened! Thanks for posting!
I looked up your HR lifters. Edelbrock heads have heavy valves. I tried the HR compcams setup and returned it for a solid roller setup. You will get valve float. The springs aren't strong enough to control the heavy valves. If you raise the spring pressures, you will get a lot of lifter leak down because of the valve weight and won't make advertised lift. The correct lifter is the T5329. The Edelbrock springs are only adequate for a mild hydraulic flat tappet cam. Again, I warn you, Edelbrock says to torque the rocker studs to 35 lb.ft. Don't do it. You will rip out the studs! I know, I did it. They later changed the recommendation to 30 lb.ft, but they didn't update the instructions. I torque mine to 28 lb.ft. and have no problems. I run a street roller cam with over 200# on the seat with no problems.
Thanks for the tips. The lifters I have are morel which were recommended to me by the roller cam maker. Since the lifter bore is “stepped” on my 428 the lifter can raise passed the oil hole and shoot out the oil. I think that’s why I’ve seen some articles about the limited travel lifters. I will have to double check the spring pressure as well. Supposedly this model head is rated for the roller cam but like you said it might not be strong enough. The studs make a lot of sense, I’m a bit worried about the durability of the thread inserts so I don’t think I’ll be torquing them to the 35 haha. Appreciate the information
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I'm currently building a similar FE with the same heads. CompCams XR280HR grind (moderate cam). Look at Compcams 928-16 springs. Comp actually recommended 924-16 springs with my cam, but I thought they looked a little too light. The 928's are the exact same dimension as the Edelbrock springs I removed, so they drop right in using the same Edelbrock retainers. I measured the spring pressures which were 150# seat and 350# at open (.531 lift), which was only about 20# heavier than the Edelbrock springs I removed. It's worth having a Valve Spring pressure tester, look at the LSM testers. Also, I'd look at the Johnson FE Roller Lifters, they come highly recommended. Iskandarian sells the exact same lifter as Johnson for about $100 cheaper, directly from Isky. The Isky box actually has Johnson labels.
Started my build today! Cranks in, cams in and piston rings gapped and fitted read to go on the rods. This video series has helped me sense check things and fired some confidence my way. Thanks!
I always stud my intake and cylinder head valve cover bolts. I used to run a built 390 in my 67 mustang fastback and I was always having to remove my valve covers to adjust valve lash. It made it so much easier with the studs because the big block was such a tight fit. Now I put valve cover studs in every engine I build.
Fingerprints carry body oil. Got some on the head gaskets. They can create hot spots and blow your gasket. If it happens, this might explain why, down the highway. ❤
Don't shim them. Send them back to T&D and have them clearance the end supports. I did this. Also only torque the rocker studs to 28 lb.ft. or you will rip out the studs. I put the oil restrictors in the block, it's easier, and I use 0.060 orifice. Check the valve spring pressures and make sure they are correct for your type of cam. I ordered pushrods from Smith Brothers. I had them make them as "oil through" to make sure the cups have adequate oil. Make sure the rocker stands sit down flush, or you will loose oil out the bottom and tear up the rockers Make sure you put the narrow rocker stud in the correct position, 2nd from the left, otherwise you will restrict the oil. I use lash caps. Sometimes the T&D rockers don't line up exactly with the valve stems.
Right on👍 I am building a 428 woth same heads at the moment. I even have a 390 I bored and stroked to 445 with a set of them about to go on. The FE parts are few and far between last few years. Everything seems to be a wait.
There are special light duty valve springs to use (just two for one cylinder) when checking valve to piston clearance and rocker arm geometry that will not bend the adjustable pushrods. These are usually included with degree wheel kits. You will need to recheck valve to piston clearance once rocker arm geometry / pushrod length / shim thickness is determined. Assemble, check, disassemble, adjust, repeat….
Yes you are right. I’m in the process of getting the correct geometry. I was going to use the adjustable pushrod but I don’t think it’s strong enough to withstand the springs. So i will use the light springs and shim until I get the correct geometry. I’ll show it in the next video!
Haha yes sort of crazy. I’m just glad people like the videos, I really want to have more information out on these Ford FE engines. And finish the galaxie!
Can't wait to hear this thing idling and running. I was once told that just the Edelbrock heads should add 90 to 100 hp. With a very competent street build - like drive it every day - same guy told me he dynoed his at 525 hp. Pretty sure he is running lower comp - maybe 10:1. It's in a 66 Galaxie that everyone from kids to wife would drive. Not a show car. But no matter the numbers the thing runs like a champ. Still drives it regularly today after about 8 years. So, I'd say it's durable as heck too. Maybe 80k on that build? Maybe more?
For me getting OEM FE heads refurbished and ported ends up costing about the same as the new aluminum heads. The new aluminum heads outperform most anything the factory introduced back in the day. I originally was planning on going with the Edelbrock heads. Then I found that Trick Flow makes heads for the FE now. They cost a bit more than the Edelbrock's but they blow them out of the water.
If you have a degree wheel and a dial indicator put the engine into valve overlap with test springs on it and dial indicate by pushing up and down on the valve and you'll know how much clearance you have I recommend .100 that's good and safe
You should check with Lykins Motorsports for rocker shaft mount spacers. He makes them. He is a FE builder and has a you tube channel. Great info on Ford FE motors and more.
Yes I’ve seen lots of his videos. I’ll have to double check the correct thickness on the spacers. I need at least 1/4 inch but I’ll call him to see if he makes that thickness
Powerful valve springs are hard on valve seats, valves and other valvetrain components. Lightweight valves might be an option and keep the stock springs. Keeping the motor alive as long as possible with no issues shoukd be the goal. Don't be in a hurry.
Yes and the fact that Aluminum dissipates heat way better than cast Iron which tends to hold heat... so aluminum heads and intake handle fuel way more efficiently that iron [and power to weight ratio is a factor but the heat thing is a huge advantage]. There's a new thing that can be done where you ceramic coat different components to protect the engine at higher RPM's from heat. Yada yada... :-))
That is the oil restrictor. The ford fe has a tendency to pool up oil on the head instead of keeping the oil at the mains were it’s important under hard acceleration. With the roller rockers they don’t need much oil
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I’ve been out of the loop for years . I can’t work on the things I used to love like Trucks because of my injuries. I was able to do a frame off restoration on a 72 ford truck for my son . We spent 2years on it and 10 grand . Now I can only look at them . I love watching you do your thing , and others . My son wants an old galaxy. He just moved and is building a new home . He is in another state, I don’t get to see him much he is soon to be here on the 6th can’t wait.
Omar just wondering why you didn't polish the intake runners on those beautiful Edelbrock heads? Your doing a great job doing it right taking your time. From the Motorcity in Detroit 👌👍✌️
I can not speak for Omar but intake runners are tricky and if not running fuel injection this process even is more important. Fuel needs to atomize and a proper mixture of air/fuel needs to happen not to mention velocity. THis is why many people weld up floors to create velocity. Not going to get to deep with this but if you want to polish up the exhaust runner have at it, as this runner is not so sensitive.
Thanks Scott! I’m not really too knowledgeable when it comes to head flow so I would rather leave it to someone who can port, polish and check the flow. I think with this build it’s not too critical but maybe on a future build I’ll practice with the smog heads that I have.
Edelbrocks are ok, but there are better options for making power for the FE. Trick Flow, BBM, and Survival are all preferred these days, but with some expert work the Edelbrocks can be made to flow almost as well. I'm running BBM heads on my 445.
Those are nice heads. Are they the 6005's? got a set of those on a 445, runs really strong. The aluminum definitely dissipates more heat into the engine bay than the cast iron does, I have found.
@@johnsheetz6639 I've got two vehicles with aluminum heads and noticed it on both of them. I have also noticed hot restarts are a little harder with aluminum intakes than cast iron in general on hot days if you're using a carburetor.
These are the 60065 for roller set up. You are right when it comes to heat dissipation. I remember when I switched the aluminum radiator, aluminum intake, and got headers on my 66 mustang the engine bay was adjust full of heat. I ended up shielding the fuel line, starter, and adding a phenolic spacer. It definitely helped tremendously
I have a set of 1 3/4" Hooker Headers for the FE into a mustang. They a Jet Hot coated. Let me know if you want them. I also have a new solid flat tappet cam 248/256 0.610/0.614 on a 110* LCA if you want it.
I have a lot of question's, You are going with roller lifters witch I take has to have special pushrod length. If you ran regular flat tappet cam can you run stock length pushrods with these heads?
Hmm I’m not too sure to be honest. But pushrod length and geometry should be checked on all builds. I don’t think it will hurt to buy a pushrod checker and verify
Definitely buy a pushrod length checker, and get the FE specific one. My last FE build I wound up with 7 of one length and 9 of the other to get the lifter preload in the specified range across the board. I'm glad I decided to take measurements on all 16 valves.
If you have any problems message me I've done at least a hundred of these can walk you through it you need to buy an adjustable push rod to come up with your push rod overall length and you need to buy a set of test springs it'll be very simple
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie what you want to end up with is a pushrod rocker shaft height combination that puts you in the center of the valve tip then you adjust your pushrod length you should be scrubbing no more than .050 and you will have the correct valve change geometry making sure it is in the center of the valve tip if you get yourself a stack of VSI shims get the a,b and C's the part number you want is 306 that is how you adjust your rocker shaft height properly I was involved with the development of this system with Harlan and sharps I think the guy's name at the time was Mike or Mark you're talking more than 30 years ago worked with him on the Chrysler la block system 318 340 360 and the 427 FE system PS this is how jessel also does it they might have been watching LOL
Keep them sprayed with WD-40 and the aluminum will not turn funny with corrosion and will look great for a long time. Will smell from time to time and if you can handle the perfume smell your motor will always look great.
I’m not a ford FE aficionado but your passion for old iron is infectious. Keep up the great work
Appreciate it thanks!!
Hi Omar. Enjoying your videos. Thanks for doing them. Trying to learn what I can on the 428s.
I just purchased a 1964 Galaxy which originally had a 390 but sometime in its history was swapped with a 428 crate motor (I think, because it has no serial number).
These are decent heads. I built a 428 for my Mercury Cougar about 15 years ago and used a set of the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with some light cleanup work in the ports and port matched to a Performer RPM intake. I used a pretty aggressive hydraulic flat tappet cam and 10.5:1 pistons and that engine ran like a dream. Sold the car a few years later, but I loved that 428.
Nice! This one is about 10.5 compression as well. Looking into por matching as well. I’m sure that will make a noticeable difference
Finally, the heads show up! And the learning curve commences! Nice one Omar!
i brought a bunch of parts for my subaru ej207 - custom heads = total was $14,000 YOUR DOING EVERYTHING REALLY WELL AND TOP JOB ! WELL DONE . THANK YOU .
You are doing it right brother! Chasing threads, trimming studs; I really liked, "the last thing you want to hear is POP and your torque wrench gets really loose" Been there, done that, REALLY didn't like it. I spoke a new language after that happened! Thanks for posting!
Oh man that sucks, I’m glad this block has held up good. Hopefully no problems as I continue!
I looked up your HR lifters. Edelbrock heads have heavy valves. I tried the HR compcams setup and returned it for a solid roller setup. You will get valve float. The springs aren't strong enough to control the heavy valves. If you raise the spring pressures, you will get a lot of lifter leak down because of the valve weight and won't make advertised lift. The correct lifter is the T5329. The Edelbrock springs are only adequate for a mild hydraulic flat tappet cam. Again, I warn you, Edelbrock says to torque the rocker studs to 35 lb.ft. Don't do it. You will rip out the studs! I know, I did it. They later changed the recommendation to 30 lb.ft, but they didn't update the instructions. I torque mine to 28 lb.ft. and have no problems. I run a street roller cam with over 200# on the seat with no problems.
Thanks for the tips. The lifters I have are morel which were recommended to me by the roller cam maker. Since the lifter bore is “stepped” on my 428 the lifter can raise passed the oil hole and shoot out the oil. I think that’s why I’ve seen some articles about the limited travel lifters. I will have to double check the spring pressure as well. Supposedly this model head is rated for the roller cam but like you said it might not be strong enough. The studs make a lot of sense, I’m a bit worried about the durability of the thread inserts so I don’t think I’ll be torquing them to the 35 haha. Appreciate the information
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I'm currently building a similar FE with the same heads. CompCams XR280HR grind (moderate cam). Look at Compcams 928-16 springs. Comp actually recommended 924-16 springs with my cam, but I thought they looked a little too light. The 928's are the exact same dimension as the Edelbrock springs I removed, so they drop right in using the same Edelbrock retainers. I measured the spring pressures which were 150# seat and 350# at open (.531 lift), which was only about 20# heavier than the Edelbrock springs I removed. It's worth having a Valve Spring pressure tester, look at the LSM testers. Also, I'd look at the Johnson FE Roller Lifters, they come highly recommended. Iskandarian sells the exact same lifter as Johnson for about $100 cheaper, directly from Isky. The Isky box actually has Johnson labels.
Started my build today! Cranks in, cams in and piston rings gapped and fitted read to go on the rods. This video series has helped me sense check things and fired some confidence my way. Thanks!
Wow you got a lot done in fast time. It’s taking me way too long to get this build together haha
I always stud my intake and cylinder head valve cover bolts. I used to run a built 390 in my 67 mustang fastback and I was always having to remove my valve covers to adjust valve lash. It made it so much easier with the studs because the big block was such a tight fit. Now I put valve cover studs in every engine I build.
Very nice I’ll have to look into that. Hopefully I’ll have enough room with the tall valve covers and the master cylinder. It’s looking pretty tight!
Fingerprints carry body oil. Got some on the head gaskets. They can create hot spots and blow your gasket. If it happens, this might explain why, down the highway. ❤
Don't shim them. Send them back to T&D and have them clearance the end supports. I did this. Also only torque the rocker studs to 28 lb.ft. or you will rip out the studs. I put the oil restrictors in the block, it's easier, and I use 0.060 orifice. Check the valve spring pressures and make sure they are correct for your type of cam. I ordered pushrods from Smith Brothers. I had them make them as "oil through" to make sure the cups have adequate oil. Make sure the rocker stands sit down flush, or you will loose oil out the bottom and tear up the rockers Make sure you put the narrow rocker stud in the correct position, 2nd from the left, otherwise you will restrict the oil. I use lash caps. Sometimes the T&D rockers don't line up exactly with the valve stems.
Sorry, I meant Harland Sharp rockers, not T&D.
Nice job Omar, really nice job.
Appreciate it!
Excellent quality. Nice when you receive what you paid for. The cost of building sure rises fast.
Right on👍 I am building a 428 woth same heads at the moment. I even have a 390 I bored and stroked to 445 with a set of them about to go on. The FE parts are few and far between last few years. Everything seems to be a wait.
Man a 445 would be so sweet. I’ve got a 390 I can do it to
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie Absolutely. I actually have two in the shop atm, one almost done and the other about to get started on.
Can’t wait to hear this purr when it’s running !
It’s going to be awesome. Going to build a run stand for it
There are special light duty valve springs to use (just two for one cylinder) when checking valve to piston clearance and rocker arm geometry that will not bend the adjustable pushrods. These are usually included with degree wheel kits. You will need to recheck valve to piston clearance once rocker arm geometry / pushrod length / shim thickness is determined. Assemble, check, disassemble, adjust, repeat….
Yes you are right. I’m in the process of getting the correct geometry. I was going to use the adjustable pushrod but I don’t think it’s strong enough to withstand the springs. So i will use the light springs and shim until I get the correct geometry. I’ll show it in the next video!
Thanks to all for info.
awesome, I love how give attention to detail
Appreciate it joe!
Love seeing your channel growing!
Haha yes sort of crazy. I’m just glad people like the videos, I really want to have more information out on these Ford FE engines. And finish the galaxie!
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie glad to be along for the ride!
Can't wait to hear this thing idling and running. I was once told that just the Edelbrock heads should add 90 to 100 hp. With a very competent street build - like drive it every day - same guy told me he dynoed his at 525 hp. Pretty sure he is running lower comp - maybe 10:1. It's in a 66 Galaxie that everyone from kids to wife would drive. Not a show car. But no matter the numbers the thing runs like a champ. Still drives it regularly today after about 8 years. So, I'd say it's durable as heck too. Maybe 80k on that build? Maybe more?
Yes I’m excited to hear this thing rumble. I’m hoping for at least 500hp but may be too optimistic haha. I guess I’ll get it dynoed and see.
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie Or just say it is....that seems to be common too. LOL
Brother you are a pro Love your work & your videos
Thank you appreciate it!
For me getting OEM FE heads refurbished and ported ends up costing about the same as the new aluminum heads. The new aluminum heads outperform most anything the factory introduced back in the day. I originally was planning on going with the Edelbrock heads. Then I found that Trick Flow makes heads for the FE now. They cost a bit more than the Edelbrock's but they blow them out of the water.
If you have a degree wheel and a dial indicator put the engine into valve overlap with test springs on it and dial indicate by pushing up and down on the valve and you'll know how much clearance you have I recommend .100 that's good and safe
You should check with Lykins Motorsports for rocker shaft mount spacers. He makes them. He is a FE builder and has a you tube channel. Great info on Ford FE motors and more.
Yes I’ve seen lots of his videos. I’ll have to double check the correct thickness on the spacers. I need at least 1/4 inch but I’ll call him to see if he makes that thickness
Expensive bur worth the results when done
Powerful valve springs are hard on valve seats, valves and other valvetrain components. Lightweight valves might be an option and keep the stock springs. Keeping the motor alive as long as possible with no issues shoukd be the goal. Don't be in a hurry.
Very true, thank you!
POWER!!!!!
Yes and the fact that Aluminum dissipates heat way better than cast Iron which tends to hold heat... so aluminum heads and intake handle fuel way more efficiently that iron [and power to weight ratio is a factor but the heat thing is a huge advantage]. There's a new thing that can be done where you ceramic coat different components to protect the engine at higher RPM's from heat. Yada yada... :-))
Very true. The headers especially give off a ton of heat. I did get those ceramic coated so they should definitely help
Top of the line equipment. They look awesome. What was that little set screw for you put in the head at the beginning. Good luck with the rockers.
That is the oil restrictor. The ford fe has a tendency to pool up oil on the head instead of keeping the oil at the mains were it’s important under hard acceleration. With the roller rockers they don’t need much oil
Match the ports , some aren’t always true to lineup. Match the intake to heads .
Will look into that when the intake is mounted. Thanks!
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I’m wondering if anyone has developed a direct injection intake for FE engines
@@rossboyd2272 I believe Edelbrock makes the pro flow if that’s what you mean. Looks pretty cool!
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I’ve been out of the loop for years . I can’t work on the things I used to love like Trucks because of my injuries. I was able to do a frame off restoration on a 72 ford truck for my son . We spent 2years on it and 10 grand . Now I can only look at them . I love watching you do your thing , and others . My son wants an old galaxy. He just moved and is building a new home . He is in another state, I don’t get to see him much he is soon to be here on the 6th can’t wait.
Omar just wondering why you didn't polish the intake runners on those beautiful Edelbrock heads?
Your doing a great job doing it right taking your time.
From the Motorcity in Detroit 👌👍✌️
I can not speak for Omar but intake runners are tricky and if not running fuel injection this process even is more important. Fuel needs to atomize and a proper mixture of air/fuel needs to happen not to mention velocity. THis is why many people weld up floors to create velocity. Not going to get to deep with this but if you want to polish up the exhaust runner have at it, as this runner is not so sensitive.
Thanks Scott! I’m not really too knowledgeable when it comes to head flow so I would rather leave it to someone who can port, polish and check the flow. I think with this build it’s not too critical but maybe on a future build I’ll practice with the smog heads that I have.
I’m surprised the heads made it to you on the first try (not getting “lost” during delivery).
Lol I was waiting for them so they better not have said they were delivered when they weren’t.
Awesome!
Edelbrocks are ok, but there are better options for making power for the FE. Trick Flow, BBM, and Survival are all preferred these days, but with some expert work the Edelbrocks can be made to flow almost as well. I'm running BBM heads on my 445.
Yes there are other options but I think they’re fine with a mild build. I’m really leaning towards building a 445 for my 68 mustang!
I’m ready for new content already
Haha I’ll try to put some more videos!
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie I’m currently in the process of 351w
Those are nice heads. Are they the 6005's? got a set of those on a 445, runs really strong. The aluminum definitely dissipates more heat into the engine bay than the cast iron does, I have found.
You know that's interesting I've never had a set of aluminum heads but nobody reports that. Makes sense
@@johnsheetz6639 I've got two vehicles with aluminum heads and noticed it on both of them. I have also noticed hot restarts are a little harder with aluminum intakes than cast iron in general on hot days if you're using a carburetor.
@@MattsRageFitGarage that is something to consider for a daily driven vehicle.
@@johnsheetz6639 I've been happier overall with all cast iron how an engine runs in the cooler months, that is for sure.
These are the 60065 for roller set up. You are right when it comes to heat dissipation. I remember when I switched the aluminum radiator, aluminum intake, and got headers on my 66 mustang the engine bay was adjust full of heat. I ended up shielding the fuel line, starter, and adding a phenolic spacer. It definitely helped tremendously
Are these heads a medium riser style head?
Yes modeled after the medium riser heads.
I have a set of 1 3/4" Hooker Headers for the FE into a mustang. They a Jet Hot coated. Let me know if you want them. I also have a new solid flat tappet cam 248/256 0.610/0.614 on a 110* LCA if you want it.
Very cool, I’d be interested in the headers but I’m a long long ways on the 68 mustang hahaha so it will be a while
Hi just wanted to ask why you chose the Edelbrock heads?
Cobra jet heads are hard to find and expensive. Having to machine them still, the edelbrocks will come around the same price and they are aluminum.
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie how do the edlebrock heads flow compared to the Cobra jet heads
I have a lot of question's, You are going with roller lifters witch I take has to have special pushrod length. If you ran regular flat tappet cam can you run stock length pushrods with these heads?
If you have stock rockers, you should be able too
Hmm I’m not too sure to be honest. But pushrod length and geometry should be checked on all builds. I don’t think it will hurt to buy a pushrod checker and verify
Definitely buy a pushrod length checker, and get the FE specific one. My last FE build I wound up with 7 of one length and 9 of the other to get the lifter preload in the specified range across the board. I'm glad I decided to take measurements on all 16 valves.
If you would’ve used regular head bolts wou wouldn’t have to shim the rockers
Yes, but will still need to shim to correct rocker geometry
If you have any problems message me I've done at least a hundred of these can walk you through it you need to buy an adjustable push rod to come up with your push rod overall length and you need to buy a set of test springs it'll be very simple
Thanks Brian, pushrod checker should be here tomorrow. I’ll have to look into the test springs still. I will keep you in mind. Always need help haha
@@OmarRamirezGalaxie what you want to end up with is a pushrod rocker shaft height combination that puts you in the center of the valve tip then you adjust your pushrod length you should be scrubbing no more than .050 and you will have the correct valve change geometry making sure it is in the center of the valve tip if you get yourself a stack of VSI shims get the a,b and C's the part number you want is 306 that is how you adjust your rocker shaft height properly I was involved with the development of this system with Harlan and sharps I think the guy's name at the time was Mike or Mark you're talking more than 30 years ago worked with him on the Chrysler la block system 318 340 360 and the 427 FE system PS this is how jessel also does it they might have been watching LOL
Always willing to help enjoy watching you fellas do this at home in your garage and teaching yourself it's the best way
yes, its here, haha
Keep them sprayed with WD-40 and the aluminum will not turn funny with corrosion and will look great for a long time. Will smell from time to time and if you can handle the perfume smell your motor will always look great.
Thanks for the tip. Was wondering how I can keep the aluminum in hood shape.
FE-Fairly Expensive
Compared to what, a big block Chrysler or a Pontiac? I am finding out an FE is F×%cking expensive compared to any Chevy.
@@davidkeeton6716 lol