Thanks for the video. My problem seems to be different than this. I also have a craftsman 1/2 hp opener and can't get the door to reverse until it opens all the way. I stop it (with the switch) in the partially open position, and when I restart it, it continues on up until fully open. Then it often takes several tries to get the door to close.
Thanks for the this informative video. I have a old craftsman 1/2 HP sears model and suddenly it stopped going down, I have to hold the button to close it. I lubed it and checked door wheels but still no help. Guide please.
Thank you for you r help on my garage door i notice the chain on the right side as you look from inside out is sagging so what do i do adjust the quarter turn screw on the back of the lift first? Thank you for your help.
I have a door that fell off from the front brace due to the bolts breaking. the door its self is on i just dont know how to get the rail in place with the brace on the wall, there is a 3 in ch gap preventing me from connecting them. is there any way possible you could give me some advice.
Great video and I was hoping you could give some tips on my garage door problem. My garage door will sometimes close then immediately open. I have to use the remote several times to close the garage door. After watching this behavior from both sides of the door I noticed 2 things: 1) from the outside when this situation occurs the door looks bowed (does not happen when door closes on first try) and 2) from the inside when this situation occurs the track bows up towards the ceiling of the garage. Any ideas on how to fix? I check the sensors and they are working and lined up. This is a craftsman door opener.
The down limit setting is set to far. It forces the door down to the ground to hard and can cause both the bowing of the track and the door. Adjust the down travel limit and back it off a quarter turn at a time till the door isn’t forced down so hard and it should help. Let me know if you encounter any other issues.
hello from texas excellent video I want to ask you a question it is natural that the engine moves a little when closing the door I see that everything is well adjusted
How far is a little? It’s normal for the lift motor assembly to move only if the mounts are loose. If its moving an inch there’s a problem. If its just wiggling I’d keep an eye on it. Ultimately it should be secure.
Hi Maintenanceman, I replace my sprocket gear successfully but since i got everything back it does not open or close. I goes almost a foot from the motor and then comes back. I checked each and every wire also the safety eyes and found them alright. Will appreciate your help. Thanks
I installed a craftsman 1/2 hp garage door opener that I got from a friend. The unit is fairly new and worked fine in his garage, but he replaced it because he did not have any remotes for it. When he purchased his house there were not remotes. my problem is I have installed the unit in my garage but I don't know how to adjust the door.I don't have the instruction manual.I just need to know how to get the door to move up and down so I can make some adjustments.
Hey great video! I had this happen last year where the chain on 1 side was so loose the trolley hit the stop bolt on the up bolt and jammed It was so tight on the opisite side of the threaded bolt to loosen the chain that it would not move at all and I was worried it was gonna snap the pulley any second. After loosening the chain and taking a huge chance on getting hurt I pulled the chain off the gear on top of the motor and then put it back on after the tension was off. It has done the same thing 3 more times this year. It will be working fine then all of a sudden it will hit a stop bolt (has hit the up and down side) and 1 side of the chain will be hanging there several inches below the rail and the other side so tight I'm surprised it doesn't snap the gear or pulley. When I fix it I have used your video in the past and had the tension good on both sides. What is causing it to get so loose on the one side?
Sounds like you may have a broken spring. What you’re describing sounds like the chain may be handling the full weight of the door. Another possibility is that your chain is entirely too loose. If you Disconnect the door from the chain trolley and both sides of the chain are even with tension then check the springs. Also check to see if the chain does that with no load on it. Disconnect the door and just run it. Does the chain perform as you have described above.
Ask The Maintenance Man Thank you for replying so quick! I'm about to "fix" it again.. quick question though if you don't mind. The trolley hit the stop by the door and is bound so tight on the side opposite of the threaded adjuster I am seriously surprised the gear hasn't snapped off. Is there a way to release some of that tension before pulling the chain off? I loosen it almost all the way then pull the slack to the gear, but its got so much force on the teeth that I have to pry the chain off the first few teeth. This either poops the chain off or skips several links and catches with authority. Put it this way, last time I set my camera at the door so that if the gear gets snapped off like a dull ninja star to the face we will have a video for the ER so I don't have to explain it over and over. (Probably a how-not-to video for utube as well) Thanks for your time
I’d put the door half way and stop it. Then pull the door detach lever and see if the carriage holder will travel like normal without the door. If it still gets bound up on the end as you have described, you’re down limit is set too far. It’s like the door is trying to close beyond the ground. Just back that limit off a bit and it should take care of the pressure when the carriage is all the way forward. Feel free to email me with a video of how it’s not functioning correctly so that I can better help you diagnose how to fix it. Just make sure that the video is not blurry. Let me know how I can help.
Hey Maintenance man, my craftsman chain drive door opener snapped the sprocket. I have replaced it but not I cannot seem to get the adjustments right. It opens too much to where the rail is bowed out. How do I get it back to where I have no to little tension and then work from there? it opens and closes to where it hit the 'stop' bolt and by then the rail is bowed out from too much tension. I have to undo the chain to release the tension. So I am guessing it is travelling too far up 7 down but I cannot reset it tow where is travels a short distance and then I can keep increasing the travel distance. What do you recommend? thanks
I just had my door adjusted because I could see that it wasn't butting up to the weather stripping at the top of the garage door and I see it still isn't, what do I need to do to fix this? Is it because of the cold that the materials are shrinking, please help!
I am hoping you can help me. I was installing my garage door opener. I installed everything except the hook that attaches to the door itself. I wanted to test the system before attaching it to the door. I took the remote and pushed the button.The chain moved and it went into the open position. My problem is, when I push the remote again, it does not go back to the closed position. I have tried everything. I am not using sensors. How to I get it to close. There is no way I can attach the latch to the door in the open position. Thank you.
help!! when I push my car remote that's new or the wall control, the garage door starts to close then Stops and reverses. even holding the button doesn't work.
Door only opens3 ft and stops. I can push button and it will go up a little more. Held button in and it went all way up for a few times but back to same. Any ideas to fix it?
Hi I just bought a Chamberlain belt drive 3/4hp and an extension for my brand new Raynor Aspen series 8 ft insulated garage door. My dad and I installed the opener the garage door was installed by a professional. It pulls the door up great but when closing the center rail of the opener bows up to the rafters and the door slows down. It seems like it's sticking or something we tried adjusting the arm that connects the opener to be the door? We are stumped?
Excuse me for not knowing the part name, but the part of the garage door that is sort of like a carriage, the part that when you pull the emergency release that the door pops out of, but stays attached to the rail where the chain is. Is there a way to move that piece forward or backwards to release tension? Or would I have to go purchase a shorter arm (the part that attaches to the garage and is cotter pinned to the part that releases the door when you pull the emergency release? I hope that make sense. Any help would be appreciated.
The curved arm is typically constructed of two pieces that are bolted together. You can extend or shorten the arm for large adjustments. Otherwise the only other adjustments for the travel of the trolley (where the arm attaches) are the travel limit adjustments described in the video. Hope that helps.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I will try the adjustments part on the motor housing. The metal arm pieces are maxed out for adjusting it to a smaller setting. Thank you for your reply, I don't think anyone has ever replied to me on RUclips before. :)
I just installed my new garage door openered. All worked fine for a month. Now the the garage door stops about mid-way when closing, then the latch that pulls the chain catches up with the door and then the door closes. But it closes pretty hard to the ground. Any ideas on how to fix this? I can shoot you a video as to what it is doing.
Question? Hope you can help me. We just installed a new Chamberlain Opener (belt drive) & all went super smooth however, when the door closes all the way down tightly, the rail flexes upwards...is that normal?! 😬 I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in n advance.
I have a Chamberlain garage door opener. When the garage door starts to close the rail gets pushed up and the garage door reopens and the lights begin to flash.
Hi , my garage door opens by itself , the remote works fine , i check last before i go to bed in the morning it was open so i closed it and wait wait and wait so i went inside after a few hours i went out and it was open i d'nt know how long it takes to close , can you please tip me off . Thank you , it's old craftsman
Would you mind helping me out? We replaced a broken motor on a garage door and now it is opening the door too far and the pulley is hitting the bolt at the top. We have tried adjusting the up limit, but it isn't changing anything. Is there something else that we could do to correct this issue?
If your upper limit adjustment isn’t working then your issue is with the upper limit adjuster. You should be able to purposely set the limits on a garage door so that it won’t fully open. If you’re adjusting the upper limit and it is not effecting the travel of the door the switch in the upper limit screw assembly is probably bad. Other than the upper limit adjustment there is nothing you can do. The limit adjustment is the only way to correct the issue. Let me know if you have any more questions. I’m happy to help.
+mike s interference issue or receiver is going bad. liftmasters receiver is integrated to the logic board. shouldnt cost you more than 60-80 dlls to replace logic board. diy of course.
My house had exterior painting and I tried to open the door and it was painted shut. The door tried to open for 30 seconds and it was stuck. Now it will close but the door will touch floor and come right back up. It's not the sensors. Any ideas.?... The door will open but it stops about 1.5 feet from top.
My apologies for the late response. As far as “play” in the track rail, there shouldn’t be any. The rail is a rigid piece of steel used to keep the chain taught and guide the door arm as it lifts and travels. If there is play in the rail it will cause a whole set of issues. If you’re referring to the carriage guided by the rail, that should have some play in it since there are no roller bearings and it slides during travel. Most of those are generally not adjustable. Hope that helps. Thanks for your question. Have a great day.
Thanks for the video. Is there a name for that rectangular metal part that rides along the horizontal bar? It has a rectangular hole in it. My 30-year-old Sears door closer catches it as it raises and lowers the door. I think mine is stuck and won't move along the horizontal bar. I think that's what's causing the horizontal bar to bend when I try to raise and lower the door. The bar has not broken but it may. Thanks.
I’ve always referred to that specific part as the trolly. What your describing sounds a lot like a broken spring. Take a look at that next time you get a chance.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Yes. The inner trolley. I assume that the spring you're talking about is that big coil (spring) that's about 30 inches long and hangs horizontally above (and parallel to) the door. (That's one part that we amateurs are not supposed to mess with.) I just checked and saw no breaks in that spring.
Is the trolley plastic? Has it been greased? There is also a possibility that a roller could be getting caught on the way up or down. One other thing to check is that the cables on the ends are not broken or binding. I’ve seen them slip off one of the pulleys and cause a similar problem.
I have a Craftsman 3/4 hp opener and in the down position/door closed the chain on the left side when you look up is slack a little below the rail. On the right side, when your looking up there is a steel cable which is attached to the chain on the left side. The steel cable is taught on the right while the chain on the left has slack. Is this a normal condition while the door is down and at rest? I looked at the 2 large springs and they don’t appear broken. The door appears to work fine and I replaced all 12 wheels today, 6 on each side, and sprayed the suggested silicone garage lube on hinges and such. I’m just wondering if I need to tighten the chain adjustment where the two nuts and all-thread attach to the chain at the back of the trolley, which I did just a little. I left slack in the chain still I didn’t want to put too much pressure on the sprocket in case you think there’s some other cause for the chain slack at the door rest stage. As the doors starts to open the chain will get tight and complete the cycle to fully open. I haven’t messed with the small circular arrow adjustment screws on the side of the opener. Is the slack in the chain a normal condition when the door is down and closed?.. If it is should I remove the added take-up adjustment which was about two threads on the all thread that I added today. I don’t want to put unnecessary pressure on the motor sprocket if I don’t need to. Your kind opinion and advice would be appreciated. Enjoyed your informative and well done video. Thanks for your time. I will await your response.
Thanks for all the details. That helps. From what you described it sounds like your down travel limit is set just slightly lower than the door resting on the floor. That would cause the chain to be under tension on one side when closed. If you reduce the down travel limit a small amount it should stop the motor before it puts pressure on one side of the chain, causing the other side to slack. Let me know if that doesn’t work. Sorry for the late response. Usually I’m on top of things.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Thank you, your reply was right on time. This garage door belongs to a recently widowed friend of mine. Her dear husband lost his battle with Covid. So sad.. I try to help her with her home issues now, we all three had been close for 40 years..Back to the subject, sorry. The up and down pressure adjustment arrows on the side of the motor box I have seen and read about. First, I want to disconnect the trolley by pulling the rope lever while the door is down and see if I am able manually raise the door by hand. If I cannot or it is hard to lift up I think that would be a sign that the upper large tension springs may need a quarter turn or so tightening with the rods I plan on buying at Lowes tomorrow. If I find that I don’t have a problem lifting up the door and the door will stay in place wherever I let it rest, then I believe no adjustment is needed on the tension springs, which I no for an amateur is dangerous, so I’ve read. If I get lucky and I don’t have to mess with the large springs then it would have to be what you suggested. I just thought of the large springs because the door was installed by Sears close to 15 or 20 years ago and I would think after so many years with no inspection or adjustment those springs would gradually lose some of their strength. I don’t know, maybe after proper initial installation they never have to be adjusted. I sprayed them with the silicone lube but even before the spraying they look clean, not rusty, almost brand new looking. A shock to me for being 15 years old or so. Do most people never have to retighten those springs until they snap and break and install new ones, or have you seen situations where when releasing the trolly it was too hard to raise the door by hand and you had to tighten the springs. That’s the purpose of the large springs isn’t it, to assist in raising the door if you don’t have an electrical door opener. After reading this please tell me your latest thoughts. And thank you again for trying to help amateur maintenance mechanics, like myself. Lol
Please please please do not try to tighten the springs. You could have a very serious injury or die. Those springs are designed to either last or brake. I’ve not encountered a spring loosing its tension, only breaking. I do like your idea of checking the door with the trolly disconnected. Let me know what you find out.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I didn’t like the idea of an older man like myself on the ladder messing with the springs either. But if I disconnect the trolley and I can’t raise the door up and down like you should be able to what is the cause. I thought that’s what the purpose of the large springs was. I looked good at both springs and they are not broken. Thanks for your kind and quick reply…I’m glad to hear from you that normally people don’t have to tighten the springs. I thought maybe over time they would lose their strength and need to be readjusted. By the way, if I back off the down pressure adjustment screw a little to fix the chain slack, do I also have to back off the up pressure screw at all. How will I be able to tell about the up pressure requirement need…Hope I’m not driving you crazy…thanks for your advice and time.
The springs are for the benefit of the motor on the opener. They are not designed to make a door easy for a person to lift. Using your own strength for a gauge of spring tightness is not the best idea. That’s all I was saying about that. As far as the down limit adjustment goes, it is completely independent from the up travel limit. No need to adjust them in tandem.
Legacy 850 stops about 3" from the ground. Someone said the big spring was bad. Is that true? Is there anything else that could be causing this. I unlatched it and rest it. Also tried the push button reset adjustment. And neither worked.
My garage door is slamming down kind of hard and then opens back up. I'm assuming that I need to do the adjustment that I just watched in this video. Does that sound correct?
Yes, your downward travel limit is causing the door to close hard. Back that adjustment screw a fourth of a turn at a time until the door no longer slams and goes back up. Let me know if you run into any issues.
I have a 1/2 hp craftsman chain drive garage door opener it derailed. I no idea where proper positioning is for cable chain lay out for proper function
I have Eco Garage Door which now is not closed properly. I couldn't find any other model name apart from EcoGarageDoor. No sensors are set on both sides...when the door is closed and still leaving a gap when it closed down to the ground. I can only see 4 buttons on the machine..."set" "open" "close" & "code". My house is new and the garage door is newly installed by the vendor builder and I couldn't get hold of the builder....May I get your help? Thanks
I have a sears craftsman garage door opener from the 1970s it is called a automatic door opener 1/3 hp motor chain/cable setup I installed a new gear {the big one } and somehow unclipped the up down plastic clip on wire that goes on the adjustment screw now the door only goes about 8inches closing and then stops and opens back up that is starting all the way open. ive tried to adjust it to no avail it doesn't go any farther then 8 inches no matter what I do . can you help. signed rentonick.
The adjustment screws must have shifted when it tried to open. Adjust the screw for the up position and make a note of how many turns it takes to get it to the correct position. Then back off the down position screw at least the same number of turns to start with. If the door stops short you turned it to far, if it still goes back up turn it more times. Hope that helps.
I'm having trouble like the last 2 in or 3 in it seeming 2 binding or stopping it and it will return back to winning the open it doebsn't do it all the time just periodically
I’d there anything in the way of the door travel? Is there something like one of the rollers getting stuck? Is the chain carriage binding up or hitting the end of the track? If you can send a short video to askthemaintenanceman@gmail.com I can take a look and see if I notice anything. Sorry for the late response.
Is there any way to lower a garage door with the opener disconnected, Figured I would start that way first goes as far as i can but still have a 3/4" gap.
The down controls are in the opener and function with the action. The only way I know of to tell if you’re in the right spot is to set it using the door which requires them to be connected.
@@TheMaintenanceMan The gap is actually higher with the opener connected, it is a chamberlain opener, when adjusting the travel distance it stops and reverses on error if I try to slowly bring it down as far as i can. I think the cable pulleys on the right and left side need to be adjusted so the door drops down further. I wont mess with them because their under tension. Door is perfectly level I checked it.
Have a lot of slack on one side So the slot on the motor will fix? I had a whole new door installed but they didn’t tighten the chain. I have same unit
The linkage adjustment on the chain will tighten it. Just a couple of adjustable wrenches and some turns should tighten things up. Let me know if you have any other issues. askthemaintenanceman@gmail.com
The reason only one side tightens is because the down pressure isn’t quite right. Back it off 1/16 of a turn. Let me know your results. I’m glad to help.
I have the same garage door opener (overhead legacy), when the door open there is a lot of slack on left side of chain (facing the door) but not much on right, how do you adjust for that?
@@TheMaintenanceMan No when the door is closed both sides are fairly tight. When you open there is a hinge that flows down near the track top and where the chain tightener adjustment is. When that hinge flops down and the door starts to open there is significant slack on the left side. The right side is ok since that is where the emergency pull is and the chain stays on top or near top of track but on left side it drops significantly below the track and has a bow in it
If the slack is only there when the door reaches the top of the travel then the top limit is allowing the door to go to far. If the slack is there the entire time the door is traveling either the chain needs tightened or possibly a spring is broken.
Hello! We have this same garage door and can’t find any help for it. The garage door will go down all the way like it’s going to shut, get to the bottom, and it reopens. We’ve checked the sensors and it’s not them. Sos!
It sounds like the down feed adjustment is set to far. Almost like the door wants to go past the floor before it’s satisfied, meets the resistance of the floor and then re-opens the door. Try backing off the down adjustment until the door actually won’t close all the way then adjust it back down slightly so that it closes just barely.
Check to see if you have a broken spring first. If that’s not the issue you need to back off the down travel one eighth of a turn at a time until it closes more gently.
I accidentally opened my door arm trolley when i disengaged my garage door. Now when i try to re-engage my door the trolley only moves towards the motor. I cannot get it to move in the oposite direction so that i can attempt to reattach the garage door. Any advice on how i can fix this?
Sorry for the late response. Once the catch is all the way up try flipping the catch lever on the arm and then raise the door to meet the catch. With the catch lever flipped in the latched position it should “click” into place and the arm catch should grab the catch on the chain. Let me know if it doesn’t work or you need any more help. Have a great night.
I accidently closed the door on my hammock and it bent one support strut and top angle iron. I replaced the parts and my door appears to work fine but not all the time. Sometimes it will leave a 2 inch gap where the door won't shut flush against the top and other times it closes completely. It seems like the trolley stops too early.
Did the main lift spring break? If the motor is dead lifting the door it might fall short or possibly not fully open the door depending on the weight. Otherwise you may have a faulty switch on the upper travel adjustment.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I have the springs on each side of the door and they are fine. The motor is working fine, but the problem is the gap at the top of door. If you are standing outside of door and you look up you can see into the garage because the door is not flush against the top. The problem happens 30% of the time and the times it closes flush. Thanks for the quick response
@@TheMaintenanceMan the door always touches the ground and closes. The gap is from the top of the door not always touching the header. Which wouldn't really matter but I am insulating my garage because I work out in there during winter. Sometimes it is completely flush against header and other times it has the 2" gap
Does the arm attached between the door and the trolly have damage from the hammock incident? I’m honestly stumped without being able to look at things myself. Can you take a short video from inside while it closes and email it to me?
I have this exact garage door opener and I need to know how I can fix a problem I'm having. The problem is when closing the garage door, the door will go all the way down to the concrete but then open right back up. It will not stay closed. Please help.
+Brett Gorman 1) Make SURE that the Saf-T-Beam senors are working correctly (see page #18-19 of owners manual re: www.overheaddoor.com/garage-door-openers/Documents/DISCONTINUED/legacy-installation.pdf). If they are not working correctly the door will always automatically reopen. 2) if #1 doesn't solve the problem follow the procedures on page #22 of the owner's manual - "Force adjustment". Good luck :-)
My garage door could be stopped midway with the on off switch but now it can’t be. Just slides down when you press the button to stop. Any idea what’s happening? I did fix a broken mount. Don’t know if I touched something I shouldn’t have. Any idea what’s going on?
Ask The Maintenance Man it’s a screw type not chain type. Yes it’s still attached. So when I press the button it goes up or down but previously I could press the button during motion and stop it mid way. I just can’t now.
How come my garage door still dont want to reverse when I put a 2x4 down in the middle of the floor? the door hits the floor slowly and not forcible. but cant get the reverse thingy for child safety. I will really appreciate if someone can help me . Thanks
Hey my Garage door Is going up to for The chain is jumping out of the Lil plastic part And slamming back down And it just did that all of a sudden what could be wrong And I have the exact same one that you have in this video
Most likely the travel moved a little and it’s hitting the bottom to firmly. The motion tricks the door into thinking it’s hitting an object before it closes and the internal safety causes it to go back up. Adjust the low limit so that it closes just a bit more shallow and it should take care of your issue.
I have an old (in use since prior to purchasing my house in 1986) Challenger 1/3 HP 115V chain drive garage door opener. When opening the door with remote or from wall switch, the door rises about 1-2 feet, then crashes down. It may do this a couple of times without me re-touching the remote and then finally makes its way all the way up. No problem when putting door down. This does not happen every time I open the door. Any advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I’m not sure what you’re asking to be honest. Most adjustments are done to the opener head and chain tension. The “trolley” has no adjustments. Is there another name for the part you’re asking about?
"Post your questions on Ask the Maintenance Man" -- you mean in a comment like this, here? If so, here's my ~1:30 video of my garage door challenge: ruclips.net/video/4DA031JWg-4/видео.html. Thanks!
i have a linear opener. Had the springs replaced a month ago and was working fine. it seemes to get out of adjustment. it was going to far open and not closing, about a foot short. i adjusted it for the open part but it wont let me adjust it far enough to close. i took the cover off and it is maxed out. Any advice i would appreciate it.
I have the same one but I see 2 adjustment screws to turn where u have 1? My door is opening too far and slamming into the light and knocking the safety release out of track and slamming to the ground😭
One of your adjustment screws is the high limit or top most point at where the door will stop moving and the other is the lowest or bottom limit. Your top limit adjust is too far that’s why your door is going all the way to the light. There’s also the possibility that the high limit door switch inside is broken so it passes right on by and hits the light.
I notice on your video the adjustment screws are on either side, both of my screws are on the right side (open) maybe that’s my problem. I was able to adjust the open, then it doesn’t close all they way. When I adjust the close then it won’t open all the way. How do I get the adjustment screws on either side
that little wheel in the front, it's broken today. so we have a technician to come. he put a new one on and it's broken again. the top side of the wheel is ripped apart. what would cause that problem? how come they dont make that wheel metal so it'd be harder to be broken? the technician said the opener is no good and need to be replaced and asked for $500.
I replaced the drive gear and now the door will shut but opens back up after there is a bang up where the motor is the chain almost drops below the track and then reversed to go up. Weird how the chain drops so loose then tightens and reverses the door to up
What you’re describing sounds like the limit for the downward travel is set way past the point where the door meets the floor. The motor is stressed trying to press the door further into the ground and goes back up after the stress on the motor gets to high. That would cause the chain to drop on one side while the tendon is high. I’m not sure what the bang is. Possibly the chain is skipping a sprocket due to the tension. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Ask The Maintenance Man yes the door is all the way down when the chain drops and then the door goes up. Should I turn the force screws all the way one way or the other to start? I have for two days tried increasing up or down
Sorry for the extremely late response. Can you be more specific as to what “jumps” means? Does it seem like the door is stuck and then suddenly releases? I just need a bit more specific details. Thanks.
New wheels?... That’s important information considering your issue. That being said it sounds like one of the rollers is getting caught on the track. Most likely where the top roller passes between the vertical and horizontal track pieces. What was the name of the company you used to have the rollers replaced?
@@TheMaintenanceMan Okay I figured it out when they tightened up my spring moved the door over 3\4 of a inch witch made the door rub on right side. So I just moved door over to left and does not rub anymore.
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Thank you for posting this video. I have the exact same door opener and needed to figure out how to adjust a loose chain.
your the best,you made the up or down leveling so easy you saved me a service call thanks so much
Thank you very much for making this video. It really help me trouble shoot the issue I was having.
Great video. Had a loose chain, didn't know about the "open more" and "close more". Saved me quite a bit of headache.
Thank you!! This totally fixed my problem! 💙
Thank you . you are very helpful. you saved me a lot of money
Thanks for sharing. This solved my issue 👊
worked great. Thanks!
Thank you this worked for me.
exactly what i was looking for. thx.
It worked. Thank you 🙂
Thanks for the tip. I'll try it. I thought your video was helpful. Thank you
thank you for saving me $75 I did it myself and everything works fine now
Thanks for the video. My problem seems to be different than this. I also have a craftsman 1/2 hp opener and can't get the door to reverse until it opens all the way. I stop it (with the switch) in the partially open position, and when I restart it, it continues on up until fully open. Then it often takes several tries to get the door to close.
Thanks it worked
Thanks for the this informative video. I have a old craftsman 1/2 HP sears model and suddenly it stopped going down, I have to hold the button to close it. I lubed it and checked door wheels but still no help. Guide please.
Thank you for you r help on my garage door i notice the chain on the right side as you look from inside out is sagging so what do i do adjust the quarter turn screw on the back of the lift first? Thank you for your help.
Is it sagging when the door is up, down, or all the time?
I have a door that fell off from the front brace due to the bolts breaking. the door its self is on i just dont know how to get the rail in place with the brace on the wall, there is a 3 in ch gap preventing me from connecting them. is there any way possible you could give me some advice.
You are awesome🙏🙏🙏
Thanks. You are too.
Great video and I was hoping you could give some tips on my garage door problem.
My garage door will sometimes close then immediately open. I have to use the remote several times to close the garage door. After watching this behavior from both sides of the door I noticed 2 things: 1) from the outside when this situation occurs the door looks bowed (does not happen when door closes on first try) and 2) from the inside when this situation occurs the track bows up towards the ceiling of the garage. Any ideas on how to fix? I check the sensors and they are working and lined up. This is a craftsman door opener.
The down limit setting is set to far. It forces the door down to the ground to hard and can cause both the bowing of the track and the door. Adjust the down travel limit and back it off a quarter turn at a time till the door isn’t forced down so hard and it should help. Let me know if you encounter any other issues.
hello from texas excellent video I want to ask you a question it is natural that the engine moves a little when closing the door I see that everything is well adjusted
How far is a little? It’s normal for the lift motor assembly to move only if the mounts are loose. If its moving an inch there’s a problem. If its just wiggling I’d keep an eye on it. Ultimately it should be secure.
Hi Maintenanceman,
I replace my sprocket gear successfully but since i got everything back it does not open or close. I goes almost a foot from the motor and then comes back. I checked each and every wire also the safety eyes and found them alright. Will appreciate your help. Thanks
we have a Chamberlain whisper drive 248739 the chain on the right side is loose n the left side is tight and need to rebalance any tips
How do I fix the little bit of light that shines thru on both sides of the door about half way down when it's closed?
I installed a craftsman 1/2 hp garage door opener that I got from a friend. The unit is fairly new and worked fine in his garage, but he replaced it because he did not have any remotes for it. When he purchased his house there were not remotes. my problem is I have installed the unit in my garage but I don't know how to adjust the door.I don't have the instruction manual.I just need to know how to get the door to move up and down so I can make some adjustments.
Hey great video! I had this happen last year where the chain on 1 side was so loose the trolley hit the stop bolt on the up bolt and jammed It was so tight on the opisite side of the threaded bolt to loosen the chain that it would not move at all and I was worried it was gonna snap the pulley any second.
After loosening the chain and taking a huge chance on getting hurt I pulled the chain off the gear on top of the motor and then put it back on after the tension was off.
It has done the same thing 3 more times this year. It will be working fine then all of a sudden it will hit a stop bolt (has hit the up and down side) and 1 side of the chain will be hanging there several inches below the rail and the other side so tight I'm surprised it doesn't snap the gear or pulley.
When I fix it I have used your video in the past and had the tension good on both sides. What is causing it to get so loose on the one side?
Sounds like you may have a broken spring. What you’re describing sounds like the chain may be handling the full weight of the door. Another possibility is that your chain is entirely too loose. If you Disconnect the door from the chain trolley and both sides of the chain are even with tension then check the springs. Also check to see if the chain does that with no load on it. Disconnect the door and just run it. Does the chain perform as you have described above.
Ask The Maintenance Man Thank you for replying so quick! I'm about to "fix" it again.. quick question though if you don't mind.
The trolley hit the stop by the door and is bound so tight on the side opposite of the threaded adjuster I am seriously surprised the gear hasn't snapped off.
Is there a way to release some of that tension before pulling the chain off? I loosen it almost all the way then pull the slack to the gear, but its got so much force on the teeth that I have to pry the chain off the first few teeth. This either poops the chain off or skips several links and catches with authority.
Put it this way, last time I set my camera at the door so that if the gear gets snapped off like a dull ninja star to the face we will have a video for the ER so I don't have to explain it over and over. (Probably a how-not-to video for utube as well)
Thanks for your time
I’d put the door half way and stop it. Then pull the door detach lever and see if the carriage holder will travel like normal without the door. If it still gets bound up on the end as you have described, you’re down limit is set too far. It’s like the door is trying to close beyond the ground. Just back that limit off a bit and it should take care of the pressure when the carriage is all the way forward. Feel free to email me with a video of how it’s not functioning correctly so that I can better help you diagnose how to fix it. Just make sure that the video is not blurry. Let me know how I can help.
how do you set the limter on that model? mine keeps opening too high and messing the trolly up
You have to turn the screw to which ever side it needs to go like he demonstrated in the video
Hey Maintenance man, my craftsman chain drive door opener snapped the sprocket. I have replaced it but not I cannot seem to get the adjustments right. It opens too much to where the rail is bowed out. How do I get it back to where I have no to little tension and then work from there? it opens and closes to where it hit the 'stop' bolt and by then the rail is bowed out from too much tension. I have to undo the chain to release the tension. So I am guessing it is travelling too far up 7 down but I cannot reset it tow where is travels a short distance and then I can keep increasing the travel distance. What do you recommend? thanks
why my garage door makes kicking or bouncing noise as soon as i hit the clicker to close it and when it is almost up?
I just had my door adjusted because I could see that it wasn't butting up to the weather stripping at the top of the garage door and I see it still isn't, what do I need to do to fix this? Is it because of the cold that the materials are shrinking, please help!
I am hoping you can help me. I was installing my garage door opener. I installed everything except the hook that attaches to the door itself.
I wanted to test the system before attaching it to the door. I took the remote and pushed the button.The chain moved and it went into the open position.
My problem is, when I push the remote again, it does not go back to the closed position. I have tried everything.
I am not using sensors.
How to I get it to close. There is no way I can attach the latch to the door in the open position.
Thank you.
I like it
Thanks for the
help!! when I push my car remote that's new or the wall control, the garage door starts to close then Stops and reverses. even holding the button doesn't work.
Door only opens3 ft and stops. I can push button and it will go up a little more. Held button in and it went all way up for a few times but back to same. Any ideas to fix it?
Hi I just bought a Chamberlain belt drive 3/4hp and an extension for my brand new Raynor Aspen series 8 ft insulated garage door. My dad and I installed the opener the garage door was installed by a professional. It pulls the door up great but when closing the center rail of the opener bows up to the rafters and the door slows down. It seems like it's sticking or something we tried adjusting the arm that connects the opener to be the door? We are stumped?
Can you email me a clear video of your door closing? I’d be happy to give advise.
Excuse me for not knowing the part name, but the part of the garage door that is sort of like a carriage, the part that when you pull the emergency release that the door pops out of, but stays attached to the rail where the chain is. Is there a way to move that piece forward or backwards to release tension? Or would I have to go purchase a shorter arm (the part that attaches to the garage and is cotter pinned to the part that releases the door when you pull the emergency release? I hope that make sense. Any help would be appreciated.
The curved arm is typically constructed of two pieces that are bolted together. You can extend or shorten the arm for large adjustments. Otherwise the only other adjustments for the travel of the trolley (where the arm attaches) are the travel limit adjustments described in the video. Hope that helps.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I will try the adjustments part on the motor housing. The metal arm pieces are maxed out for adjusting it to a smaller setting. Thank you for your reply, I don't think anyone has ever replied to me on RUclips before. :)
I open my residential door about 6-8 inches and it falls back down. Why do you think it is doing that? Otherwise it works great.
Would it be easier if you use the garage remote.
I just installed my new garage door openered. All worked fine for a month. Now the the garage door stops about mid-way when closing, then the latch that pulls the chain catches up with the door and then the door closes. But it closes pretty hard to the ground. Any ideas on how to fix this? I can shoot you a video as to what it is doing.
It almost sounds like you have a broken spring. Have you checked for that? Feel free to email me a video.
Nicely Done Sir.
Thanks for the compliment.
@@TheMaintenanceMan no problem 😉
Still enjoyed watching the video. It was helpful 😎😁
Those damn things are a pain in the tookas!!! ...So convenient when they work but when they don’t, watch out!
Question? Hope you can help me. We just installed a new Chamberlain Opener (belt drive) & all went super smooth however, when the door closes all the way down tightly, the rail flexes upwards...is that normal?! 😬
I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in n advance.
You have the down travel set just a bit too far. Back it off an eighth of a turn at a time till the flex goes away.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Great, will do. Thank you for your help! 👍
I have a Chamberlain garage door opener. When the garage door starts to close the rail gets pushed up and the garage door reopens and the lights begin to flash.
Hi , my garage door opens by itself , the remote works fine , i check last before i go to bed in the morning it was open so i closed it and wait wait and wait so i went inside after a few hours i went out and it was open i d'nt know how long it takes to close , can you please tip me off . Thank you , it's old craftsman
Would you mind helping me out? We replaced a broken motor on a garage door and now it is opening the door too far and the pulley is hitting the bolt at the top. We have tried adjusting the up limit, but it isn't changing anything. Is there something else that we could do to correct this issue?
If your upper limit adjustment isn’t working then your issue is with the upper limit adjuster. You should be able to purposely set the limits on a garage door so that it won’t fully open. If you’re adjusting the upper limit and it is not effecting the travel of the door the switch in the upper limit screw assembly is probably bad. Other than the upper limit adjustment there is nothing you can do. The limit adjustment is the only way to correct the issue. Let me know if you have any more questions. I’m happy to help.
I have a chamberlain liftmaster all of a sudden the remotes and key pad only work about 4ft. away! I changed the batteries no help. any advice?
+mike s interference issue or receiver is going bad. liftmasters receiver is integrated to the logic board. shouldnt cost you more than 60-80 dlls to replace logic board. diy of course.
My house had exterior painting and I tried to open the door and it was painted shut. The door tried to open for 30 seconds and it was stuck. Now it will close but the door will touch floor and come right back up. It's not the sensors. Any ideas.?... The door will open but it stops about 1.5 feet from top.
my chain bar bends up when in the closed position is that ok or is the chains too tight?
The down feed adjustment is set to far. The closer is pushing the door down to hard and causing the bar to bend.
what about the rail how much play should it have while the door raises ?
My apologies for the late response. As far as “play” in the track rail, there shouldn’t be any. The rail is a rigid piece of steel used to keep the chain taught and guide the door arm as it lifts and travels. If there is play in the rail it will cause a whole set of issues. If you’re referring to the carriage guided by the rail, that should have some play in it since there are no roller bearings and it slides during travel. Most of those are generally not adjustable. Hope that helps. Thanks for your question. Have a great day.
Great video . But there no need to adjust the door . U can just adjust the pulley and will only pull tension from the loose side..
Thanks for the video. Is there a name for that rectangular metal part that rides along the horizontal bar? It has a rectangular hole in it. My 30-year-old Sears door closer catches it as it raises and lowers the door. I think mine is stuck and won't move along the horizontal bar. I think that's what's causing the horizontal bar to bend when I try to raise and lower the door. The bar has not broken but it may. Thanks.
I’ve always referred to that specific part as the trolly. What your describing sounds a lot like a broken spring. Take a look at that next time you get a chance.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Yes. The inner trolley. I assume that the spring you're talking about is that big coil (spring) that's about 30 inches long and hangs horizontally above (and parallel to) the door. (That's one part that we amateurs are not supposed to mess with.) I just checked and saw no breaks in that spring.
Is the trolley plastic? Has it been greased? There is also a possibility that a roller could be getting caught on the way up or down. One other thing to check is that the cables on the ends are not broken or binding. I’ve seen them slip off one of the pulleys and cause a similar problem.
@@TheMaintenanceMan The trolley is metal. I'm still working on it.Thanks.
I have a Craftsman 3/4 hp opener and in the down position/door closed the chain on the left side when you look up is slack a little below the rail. On the right side, when your looking up there is a steel cable which is attached to the chain on the left side. The steel cable is taught on the right while the chain on the left has slack. Is this a normal condition while the door is down and at rest? I looked at the 2 large springs and they don’t appear broken. The door appears to work fine and I replaced all 12 wheels today, 6 on each side, and sprayed the suggested silicone garage lube on hinges and such. I’m just wondering if I need to tighten the chain adjustment where the two nuts and all-thread attach to the chain at the back of the trolley, which I did just a little. I left slack in the chain still I didn’t want to put too much pressure on the sprocket in case you think there’s some other cause for the chain slack at the door rest stage. As the doors starts to open the chain will get tight and complete the cycle to fully open. I haven’t messed with the small circular arrow adjustment screws on the side of the opener. Is the slack in the chain a normal condition when the door is down and closed?.. If it is should I remove the added take-up adjustment which was about two threads on the all thread that I added today. I don’t want to put unnecessary pressure on the motor sprocket if I don’t need to. Your kind opinion and advice would be appreciated. Enjoyed your informative and well done video. Thanks for your time. I will await your response.
Thanks for all the details. That helps. From what you described it sounds like your down travel limit is set just slightly lower than the door resting on the floor. That would cause the chain to be under tension on one side when closed. If you reduce the down travel limit a small amount it should stop the motor before it puts pressure on one side of the chain, causing the other side to slack. Let me know if that doesn’t work. Sorry for the late response. Usually I’m on top of things.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Thank you, your reply was right on time. This garage door belongs to a recently widowed friend of mine. Her dear husband lost his battle with Covid. So sad.. I try to help her with her home issues now, we all three had been close for 40 years..Back to the subject, sorry. The up and down pressure adjustment arrows on the side of the motor box I have seen and read about. First, I want to disconnect the trolley by pulling the rope lever while the door is down and see if I am able manually raise the door by hand. If I cannot or it is hard to lift up I think that would be a sign that the upper large tension springs may need a quarter turn or so tightening with the rods I plan on buying at Lowes tomorrow. If I find that I don’t have a problem lifting up the door and the door will stay in place wherever I let it rest, then I believe no adjustment is needed on the tension springs, which I no for an amateur is dangerous, so I’ve read. If I get lucky and I don’t have to mess with the large springs then it would have to be what you suggested. I just thought of the large springs because the door was installed by Sears close to 15 or 20 years ago and I would think after so many years with no inspection or adjustment those springs would gradually lose some of their strength. I don’t know, maybe after proper initial installation they never have to be adjusted. I sprayed them with the silicone lube but even before the spraying they look clean, not rusty, almost brand new looking. A shock to me for being 15 years old or so. Do most people never have to retighten those springs until they snap and break and install new ones, or have you seen situations where when releasing the trolly it was too hard to raise the door by hand and you had to tighten the springs. That’s the purpose of the large springs isn’t it, to assist in raising the door if you don’t have an electrical door opener. After reading this please tell me your latest thoughts. And thank you again for trying to help amateur maintenance mechanics, like myself. Lol
Please please please do not try to tighten the springs. You could have a very serious injury or die. Those springs are designed to either last or brake. I’ve not encountered a spring loosing its tension, only breaking. I do like your idea of checking the door with the trolly disconnected. Let me know what you find out.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I didn’t like the idea of an older man like myself on the ladder messing with the springs either. But if I disconnect the trolley and I can’t raise the door up and down like you should be able to what is the cause. I thought that’s what the purpose of the large springs was. I looked good at both springs and they are not broken. Thanks for your kind and quick reply…I’m glad to hear from you that normally people don’t have to tighten the springs. I thought maybe over time they would lose their strength and need to be readjusted. By the way, if I back off the down pressure adjustment screw a little to fix the chain slack, do I also have to back off the up pressure screw at all. How will I be able to tell about the up pressure requirement need…Hope I’m not driving you crazy…thanks for your advice and time.
The springs are for the benefit of the motor on the opener. They are not designed to make a door easy for a person to lift. Using your own strength for a gauge of spring tightness is not the best idea. That’s all I was saying about that. As far as the down limit adjustment goes, it is completely independent from the up travel limit. No need to adjust them in tandem.
What opener is that
Legacy 850 stops about 3" from the ground. Someone said the big spring was bad. Is that true? Is there anything else that could be causing this. I unlatched it and rest it. Also tried the push button reset adjustment. And neither worked.
If the big spring is bad you’ll be able to see where it’s broken. The down adjustment is what will get the door 3 inches down further.
My garage door is slamming down kind of hard and then opens back up. I'm assuming that I need to do the adjustment that I just watched in this video. Does that sound correct?
Yes, your downward travel limit is causing the door to close hard. Back that adjustment screw a fourth of a turn at a time until the door no longer slams and goes back up. Let me know if you run into any issues.
I have a 1/2 hp craftsman chain drive garage door opener it derailed. I no idea where proper positioning is for cable chain lay out for proper function
I have Eco Garage Door which now is not closed properly. I couldn't find any other model name apart from EcoGarageDoor. No sensors are set on both sides...when the door is closed and still leaving a gap when it closed down to the ground. I can only see 4 buttons on the machine..."set" "open" "close" & "code". My house is new and the garage door is newly installed by the vendor builder and I couldn't get hold of the builder....May I get your help? Thanks
I have a sears craftsman garage door opener from the 1970s it is called a automatic door opener 1/3 hp motor chain/cable setup I installed a new gear {the big one } and somehow unclipped the up down plastic clip on wire that goes on the adjustment screw now the door only goes about 8inches closing and then stops and opens back up that is starting all the way open. ive tried to adjust it to no avail it doesn't go any farther then 8 inches no matter what I do . can you help. signed rentonick.
The adjustment screws must have shifted when it tried to open. Adjust the screw for the up position and make a note of how many turns it takes to get it to the correct position. Then back off the down position screw at least the same number of turns to start with. If the door stops short you turned it to far, if it still goes back up turn it more times. Hope that helps.
I'm having trouble like the last 2 in or 3 in it seeming 2 binding or stopping it and it will return back to winning the open it doebsn't do it all the time just periodically
I’d there anything in the way of the door travel? Is there something like one of the rollers getting stuck? Is the chain carriage binding up or hitting the end of the track? If you can send a short video to askthemaintenanceman@gmail.com I can take a look and see if I notice anything. Sorry for the late response.
Is there any way to lower a garage door with the opener disconnected, Figured I would start that way first goes as far as i can but still have a 3/4" gap.
The down controls are in the opener and function with the action. The only way I know of to tell if you’re in the right spot is to set it using the door which requires them to be connected.
@@TheMaintenanceMan The gap is actually higher with the opener connected, it is a chamberlain opener, when adjusting the travel distance it stops and reverses on error if I try to slowly bring it down as far as i can. I think the cable pulleys on the right and left side need to be adjusted so the door drops down further. I wont mess with them because their under tension. Door is perfectly level I checked it.
How did it get so far off?
Have a lot of slack on one side So the slot on the motor will fix? I had a whole new door installed but they didn’t tighten the chain. I have same unit
The linkage adjustment on the chain will tighten it. Just a couple of adjustable wrenches and some turns should tighten things up. Let me know if you have any other issues. askthemaintenanceman@gmail.com
It tightens one side only
Is it slack on one side when the door is up and slack on the other side when the door is down?
When open slack on one side. When closed slack even on both sides
The up adjustment it to far causing slack on one side. Don’t tighten the chain, adjust the travel.
I adjusted the nuts on the chain, but only one side of the chain tightens. The other side is still slack because the of gears at each end
The reason only one side tightens is because the down pressure isn’t quite right. Back it off 1/16 of a turn. Let me know your results. I’m glad to help.
I have the same garage door opener (overhead legacy), when the door open there is a lot of slack on left side of chain (facing the door) but not much on right, how do you adjust for that?
Is it the opposite situation when the door is closed?
@@TheMaintenanceMan No when the door is closed both sides are fairly tight. When you open there is a hinge that flows down near the track top and where the chain tightener adjustment is. When that hinge flops down and the door starts to open there is significant slack on the left side. The right side is ok since that is where the emergency pull is and the chain stays on top or near top of track but on left side it drops significantly below the track and has a bow in it
If the slack is only there when the door reaches the top of the travel then the top limit is allowing the door to go to far. If the slack is there the entire time the door is traveling either the chain needs tightened or possibly a spring is broken.
@@TheMaintenanceMan you were correct there was a spring that was broken
Glad I could help. I hope you enjoy your weekend.
My force adjustments do not work and the door opens and closes too fast on a Genie
my door opens to far to start with it goes up against stop bolt and I can't get it from opening to far adjusting everything still won't stop
Does anyone know how to fix that? I have the same problem. TIA.
There should be an adjustment on the side of the motor assy that says open more/less or you can remove the belt and adjust it by moving the belt.
Hello! We have this same garage door and can’t find any help for it. The garage door will go down all the way like it’s going to shut, get to the bottom, and it reopens. We’ve checked the sensors and it’s not them. Sos!
It sounds like the down feed adjustment is set to far. Almost like the door wants to go past the floor before it’s satisfied, meets the resistance of the floor and then re-opens the door. Try backing off the down adjustment until the door actually won’t close all the way then adjust it back down slightly so that it closes just barely.
Sounds like that door needs some oil on all the hinges.
Yes it did.
What do you do when door hits floor hard?
Check to see if you have a broken spring first. If that’s not the issue you need to back off the down travel one eighth of a turn at a time until it closes more gently.
The garage door opens and hits the housing and then when closing the door hits bottom and returns up (re opens) How can I solve this prob;em
I accidentally opened my door arm trolley when i disengaged my garage door. Now when i try to re-engage my door the trolley only moves towards the motor. I cannot get it to move in the oposite direction so that i can attempt to reattach the garage door. Any advice on how i can fix this?
Sorry for the late response. Once the catch is all the way up try flipping the catch lever on the arm and then raise the door to meet the catch. With the catch lever flipped in the latched position it should “click” into place and the arm catch should grab the catch on the chain. Let me know if it doesn’t work or you need any more help. Have a great night.
Awrsome
I accidently closed the door on my hammock and it bent one support strut and top angle iron. I replaced the parts and my door appears to work fine but not all the time. Sometimes it will leave a 2 inch gap where the door won't shut flush against the top and other times it closes completely. It seems like the trolley stops too early.
Did the main lift spring break? If the motor is dead lifting the door it might fall short or possibly not fully open the door depending on the weight. Otherwise you may have a faulty switch on the upper travel adjustment.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I have the springs on each side of the door and they are fine. The motor is working fine, but the problem is the gap at the top of door. If you are standing outside of door and you look up you can see into the garage because the door is not flush against the top. The problem happens 30% of the time and the times it closes flush.
Thanks for the quick response
When it happens does the bottom of the door touch the ground but the top of the door has a gap?
@@TheMaintenanceMan the door always touches the ground and closes. The gap is from the top of the door not always touching the header. Which wouldn't really matter but I am insulating my garage because I work out in there during winter. Sometimes it is completely flush against header and other times it has the 2" gap
Does the arm attached between the door and the trolly have damage from the hammock incident? I’m honestly stumped without being able to look at things myself. Can you take a short video from inside while it closes and email it to me?
Have door is closed but genie door opener is trying to close it when the button is pushed
What if that rail is bobbing up and down radically and only opening about one foot and then goes back down
Maybe a broken spring. Maybe a roller problem. Start there.
I have this exact garage door opener and I need to know how I can fix a problem I'm having. The problem is when closing the garage door, the door will go all the way down to the concrete but then open right back up. It will not stay closed. Please help.
I have the same problem
+Brett Gorman 1) Make SURE that the Saf-T-Beam senors are working correctly (see page #18-19 of owners manual re: www.overheaddoor.com/garage-door-openers/Documents/DISCONTINUED/legacy-installation.pdf). If they are not working correctly the door will always automatically reopen. 2) if #1 doesn't solve the problem follow the procedures on page #22 of the owner's manual - "Force adjustment". Good luck :-)
How to fix a garage door that, at 14''off the floor it seems to stop and then free drop to the floor.
My garage door could be stopped midway with the on off switch but now it can’t be. Just slides down when you press the button to stop. Any idea what’s happening? I did fix a broken mount. Don’t know if I touched something I shouldn’t have. Any idea what’s going on?
Is the door still attached to the chain?
If it “slides” down that means it’s not attached to the chain to me.
Which mount are you referring to? The mount for the opener? Or a door panel mount? Or the track mount?
Ask The Maintenance Man it’s a screw type not chain type. Yes it’s still attached. So when I press the button it goes up or down but previously I could press the button during motion and stop it mid way. I just can’t now.
Ask The Maintenance Man it’s the mount on the end of the screw rail connected on top of the garage door. It was broken so I attached it.
How come my garage door still dont want to reverse when I put a 2x4 down in the middle of the floor?
the door hits the floor slowly and not forcible. but cant get the reverse thingy for child safety.
I will really appreciate if someone can help me . Thanks
+MeCubano DeArmas you have to locate the "force controls" and turn em down, tell me which model you have and I'll tell you where they are.
Hey my Garage door Is going up to for The chain is jumping out of the Lil plastic part And slamming back down And it just did that all of a sudden what could be wrong And I have the exact same one that you have in this video
Check to see if the springs are broken. Then check to see if the roller track has any obstructions. Let me know.
My Overhead door , just today, started going all the way down, then it comes back up again and stops. Why won't it stay down?
Most likely the travel moved a little and it’s hitting the bottom to firmly. The motion tricks the door into thinking it’s hitting an object before it closes and the internal safety causes it to go back up. Adjust the low limit so that it closes just a bit more shallow and it should take care of your issue.
My dad's door won't go up or down. It's seems like it stuck in gear. Every time I try to adjust it only moves in inch
Broken gear kit on opener or broken spring on door
I have an old (in use since prior to purchasing my house in 1986) Challenger 1/3 HP 115V chain drive garage door opener. When opening the door with remote or from wall switch, the door rises about 1-2 feet, then crashes down. It may do this a couple of times without me re-touching the remote and then finally makes its way all the way up. No problem when putting door down. This does not happen every time I open the door. Any advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
How do you adjust the trolley?
I’m not sure what you’re asking to be honest. Most adjustments are done to the opener head and chain tension. The “trolley” has no adjustments. Is there another name for the part you’re asking about?
"Post your questions on Ask the Maintenance Man" -- you mean in a comment like this, here? If so, here's my ~1:30 video of my garage door challenge: ruclips.net/video/4DA031JWg-4/видео.html. Thanks!
i have a linear opener. Had the springs replaced a month ago and was working fine. it seemes to get out of adjustment. it was going to far open and not closing, about a foot short. i adjusted it for the open part but it wont let me adjust it far enough to close. i took the cover off and it is maxed out. Any advice i would appreciate it.
I have the same one but I see 2 adjustment screws to turn where u have 1? My door is opening too far and slamming into the light and knocking the safety release out of track and slamming to the ground😭
One of your adjustment screws is the high limit or top most point at where the door will stop moving and the other is the lowest or bottom limit. Your top limit adjust is too far that’s why your door is going all the way to the light. There’s also the possibility that the high limit door switch inside is broken so it passes right on by and hits the light.
@@TheMaintenanceMan awesome thanks for reply.
No problem. That’s what I do.
@Ask The Maintenance Man think I will replace with new belt drive genie.
Put new garage door on. Door goes up fine. When it starts to go down the top middle collapses.
? How do I change the speed
Garage door
Chamberlain belt drive
I don’t advise doing it. It’s not easy first of all and second of all you will most likely damage the motor if you try to go faster.
I have a liftmaster garage door opener.
I have the same syrup and garage opener. it will not open all the way. what is the problem
just an adjustment
turn the knob that says open more. turn it a full circle n try it to see if it made any difference. keep adjusting as need it..
I notice on your video the adjustment screws are on either side, both of my screws are on the right side (open) maybe that’s my problem. I was able to adjust the open, then it doesn’t close all they way. When I adjust the close then it won’t open all the way. How do I get the adjustment screws on either side
thanks for the response.... I'll continue tomorrow, it beat me up this afternoon
I have a problem on my garage door, I closed and stay close but later open it self, somebody have an idea what's going on?
I need my door to open more. How is that done?
You need to locate the up travel adjustment.
There will be two small holes on the side of the opener that will adjust the up and down travel settings
Awesome, thanks for your fast response
Let me know if you need more information.
My garage door opens only up to a foot from the floor and stops.
that little wheel in the front, it's broken today. so we have a technician to come. he put a new one on and it's broken again. the top side of the wheel is ripped apart. what would cause that problem? how come they dont make that wheel metal so it'd be harder to be broken? the technician said the opener is no good and need to be replaced and asked for $500.
My garage won’t open
Ben Whoever hbvvvff
Ben Whoever I
I replaced the drive gear and now the door will shut but opens back up after there is a bang up where the motor is the chain almost drops below the track and then reversed to go up. Weird how the chain drops so loose then tightens and reverses the door to up
Is the door all the way down when the chain drops?
What you’re describing sounds like the limit for the downward travel is set way past the point where the door meets the floor. The motor is stressed trying to press the door further into the ground and goes back up after the stress on the motor gets to high. That would cause the chain to drop on one side while the tendon is high. I’m not sure what the bang is. Possibly the chain is skipping a sprocket due to the tension. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Ask The Maintenance Man yes the door is all the way down when the chain drops and then the door goes up. Should I turn the force screws all the way one way or the other to start? I have for two days tried increasing up or down
Back off the down control until the door doesn’t go all the way down. Then adjust it till it just barely rests.
My garage door is opening only 10% and then stop. Not sure what the problem can be :(
I think it's your ugly butt.
My garage door jumps when I open it, what do I need to do to fix problem.
Sorry for the extremely late response. Can you be more specific as to what “jumps” means? Does it seem like the door is stuck and then suddenly releases? I just need a bit more specific details. Thanks.
It jumps up about 3 inches do you think when he put new wheels on and tightened my spring he worked it to much.
New wheels?... That’s important information considering your issue. That being said it sounds like one of the rollers is getting caught on the track. Most likely where the top roller passes between the vertical and horizontal track pieces. What was the name of the company you used to have the rollers replaced?
@@TheMaintenanceMan Okay I figured it out when they tightened up my spring moved the door over 3\4 of a inch witch made the door rub on right side. So I just moved door over to left and does not rub anymore.
That’s great! I wish I could have had some kind of a miracle answer for you but I’m glad things worked out.
Overhead Door opener